Cooling the Brakes on our Ford Ranger Track Monster

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY WE'RE BACK ON PROJECT ROLLING THUNDER. WE'RE ADDING POWER AND FUEL LINES IN THE CHASSIS, AND WE'RE MAKING OUR OWN CUSTOM AERO BODY MODS FOR STYLE AND BRAKE COOLING. IT'S ALL TODAY HERE ON TRUCKS.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO TRUCKS. WELL TODAY WE'RE BACK ON PROJECT ROLLING THUNDER. I'M GONNA TAKE A WILD GUESS THAT YOU GUYS ARE GETTING KINDA TIRED OF SEEING THIS THING AS A ROLLING CHASSIS WITH A DRIVE TRAIN STUFFED IN IT. FRANKLY, WE ARE TOO. WE'RE READY TO MAKE SOME PROGRESS ON THIS LONG TERM PROJECT WE'VE GOT. NOW THE BIG PIECES ARE THERE, ENGINE, TRANSMISSION, DRIVESHAFT, REAR SUSPENSION, THE BRAKES ARE ON, AND IT'S ROLLING ON A NICE SET OF TIRES AND WHEELS. SO NOW IT'S DOWN TO SOME OF THE LITTLE THINGS, KINDA LIKE ADDING THE ENGINE WIRING HARNESS, BOLTING THIS BIG BOY SUPERCHARGER DOWN, ADDING SOME IGNITION COILS, THE FRONT END ACCESSORY DRIVE PARTS, AS WELL AS RUNNING FUEL LINES AND BATTERY CABLES. AND THAT IS PART OF WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO TODAY.

(KEVIN)>> WE'VE ALSO BEEN BUSY ON THE BODY. NOW YOU'VE SEEN US DO THE RANGER CONVERSION ON THE FRONT END OF THE MAZDA B-2,500. YOU'VE ALSO SEEN US DO THE ALTERED WHEEL BASE TRICK WITH THE TWO SETS OF FENDERS TO ACCOMMODATE THE FIVE INCH FORWARD MOVEMENT OF THE AXLE CENTER POINT. AND YOU HAVEN'T SEEN THE WIDE BODY TRICK THAT WE'RE DOING ON THE BED TO ACCOMMODATE THAT GIANT REAR WHEEL AND TIRE COMBO. HERE'S SOMETHING THAT WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU TODAY. THIS RIGHT HERE IS THE FACTORY MIRROR. IT SITS RIGHT THERE IN THE DOOR. NOTHING REALLY WRONG WITH IT, BUT IT JUST LOOKS A LITTLE PEDESTRIAN. SO WE WANT A LITTLE MORE HIGH PERFORMANCE FEEL. THIS IS A MIRROR BASE PLATE MADE OUT OF 20 GAUGE SHEET METAL. WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU HOW TO MAKE THIS TODAY. WHAT THAT ACCOMMODATES IS VERY COOL. WE FOUND A COMPANY CALLED APR. THEY MAKE CARBON FIBER MIRRORS, INLET DUCTS, SPLITTERS, VERY COOL STUFF FOR THE AFTERMARKET. THIS MIRROR'S GONNA SIT RIGHT HERE. THEY ALSO PROVIDED US WITH SOME AIR INLET DUCTS. WE'RE GONNA FIGURE OUT WHERE THESE GO, BUT TODAY'S PROJECT IS SHOWING YOU HOW TO MAKE THAT.

(RYAN)>> BUT FIRST WE'RE GONNA GET STARTED RUNNING THE FUEL LINES. NOW WE'RE GONNA SECURE THEM TO THE IRS SUBFRAME USING A CLAMP AND A HOLE THAT WE'VE DRILLED AND TAPPED. AND TO PROTECT THE LINES GOING INTO THE FRAME RAIL, WE'RE USING OUR SPLIT VACUUM HOSE TRICK THAT WE USED BEFORE. NOW WE'RE GOT TO KEEP IN MIND THAT WE'VE GOT TO ADD A FUEL FILTER TO THIS FUEL SYSTEM, BUT WE'LL HIDE THAT IN A FRAME RAIL LATER. AND TO PROTECT THE LINES FROM GETTING FULL OF METAL SHAVINGS, RUST, AND DEBRIS, WE'VE TAPED THE ENDS SHUT. WE'VE GOT TO PROVIDE AN OUT LOCATION FOR OUR FUEL LINES JUST USING A SMALL HOLE SAW AND A CARBIDE BURR TO CREATE A HOLE COMING OUT OF THE FRAME RAIL NEAR THE ENGINE BAY. WE'LL MAKE SURE IT'S FREE OF ANY SHARP EDGES LATER. NOW YOU GUYS PROBABLY NOTICED WE WENT WITH SOMETHING A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENT WHEN WE CHOSE OUR FUEL LINE. THIS IS THE PRO CLASSIC HOSE FROM RUSSELL PERFORMANCE. IT'S GOT A FEW ADVANTAGES OVER THE STAINLESS STEEL BRAIDED LINE THAT'S ALMOST BECOME AN INDUSTRY STANDARD IN HIGH PERFORMANCE APPLICATIONS. NOW THIS PRO CLASSIC HOSE, WELL IT'S A BRAIDED NYLON COVER OVER THE TOP OF A LINER THAT'S CAPABLE OF WITHSTANDING UP TO 350 PSI. AND IT'S IMPERVIOUS TO OIL, WATER, AND ANTIFREEZE, MAKING THIS STUFF THE PERFECT APPLICATION FOR ALMOST ANY PLUMBING SITUATION ON YOUR VEHICLE. NOW WITH THE STAINLESS LINE, TO CUT IT WE'VE GOT TO WRAP IT IN TAPE FIRST. YOU GET LOOSE STEEL ENDS THAT WANT TO POKE YOU IN THE FINGER, AND THE FITTINGS CAN BE DIFFICULT TO ASSEMBLE, ESPECIALLY IF YOU DON'T HAVE THE SPECIAL TOOLS. NOW THE PRO CLASSIC HOSE, IT'S MUCH MORE FLEXIBLE. IT'S LIGHTER THAN THE STEEL STUFF, AND THE FITTINGS CAN BE HAND ASSEMBLED. NOW TO GET ELECTRICITY FROM OUR RELOCATED OPTIMA BATTERY UP TO THE FRONT OF THE TRUCK, WE'RE GONNA BE USING A PRODUCT THAT WE SHOWED YOU NOT TOO LONG AGO. THIS IS ACCEL'S LIGHTNING TABLE. IT'S BASICALLY COPPER COATED ALUMINUM STRANDS, MAKING THIS BATTERY CABLE MUCH LIGHTER THAN STANDARD BATTERY CABLES. NOTICE A THEME HERE. WE'RE AFTER HIGH PERFORMANCE AND THE LIGHTER THE TRUCK THE BETTER. NOW THE CABLE ALONE IS NICE BUT IT'S NOT GONNA GET THE JOB DONE. SO YOU OBVIOUSLY NEED BATTERY TERMINALS, AND THESE SCREW ON TYPES ARE THE ONES WE LIKE TO USE. NOW THEY'RE GREAT ON THEIR OWN, BUT WE ALSO LIKE TO ADD HEAT SHRINK TUBING. IT HELPS SOLIDIFY THE CONNECTION AND IT JUST GIVES A NICE, PROFESSIONAL, AND CLEAN APPEARANCE. NOW FOR A LITTLE EXTRA INSURANCE WE'RE ADDING SOME BRAIDED COVER OVER THE TOP OF THE INSULATION ON A BATTERY CABLE. THAT'LL PREVENT ANY SHARP EDGES FROM CUTTING THROUGH THE INSULATION TO THE CONDUCTIVE WIRE AND SHORTING OUT THE BATTERY. NOW THE LOOP WE'VE ADDED THAT GOES UP AROUND THE SHIFTER HANDLE, WELL THAT'S JUST THERE TO GAUGE HOW MUCH LENGTH WE NEED BECAUSE WE'RE GONNA BE RUNNING A BATTERY CUT OFF SWITCH INSIDE THE CAB. AND THAT'S JUST A SAFETY PRECAUTION CAUSE THIS TRUCK IS GOING TO SEE SOME TRACK TIME.

NOW WITH THE SUPERCHARGER IN PLACE, WE'RE RUNNING INTO AN ISSUE THAT STRESSES THE IMPORTANCE OF MOCK UP. WHILE MOCK UP DOES KINDA SEEM LIKE YOU'RE JUST DOING THINGS TWICE AND WASTING TIME, WELL IT USUALLY SAVES TIME IN THE LONG RUN. AND THAT'S ESSENTIALLY WHAT WE'RE DOING TODAY. BOTH THESE FUEL HOSES AND THE BATTERY CABLE WILL COME BACK OUT OF THE FRAME RAILS SO THE FRAME CAN BE PAINTED. WE JUST WANT TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING'S LOOKING GOOD AND ABOUT THE RIGHT LENGTH. NOW BOTH THE FUEL HOSES AND THE BATTERY CABLES WERE CUT LONG. THAT WAY WE CAN TRIM THEM TO FIT ONCE WE DETERMINE THEIR EXACT LENGTH. NOW THE ISSUE WE'RE RUNNING INTO WITH THE FUEL RAILS MAY APPLY TO SOME OF YOU GUYS THAT RUN THESE OVERHEAD CAM FORD ENGINES AND AFTERMARKET FUEL RAILS. THE THREADED END ON THE FUEL RAIL IS REALLY CLOSE TO THE METAL COOLANT PASSAGE, ESPECIALLY ONCE YOU ADD THE NECESSARY ADAPTER. NOW EVEN WITH JUST ENOUGH ROOM TO GET A FITTING IN HERE, WELL WE'D STILL HAVE TO COME UP WITH A FLEX LINE TO GET OVER THE TOP OF THE SUPERCHARGER OR UNDERNEATH IT TO THE PASSENGER SIDE FUEL RAIL. AND WELL, THERE'S NOT A WHOLE LOT OF ROOM FOR A FITTING THERE EITHER, NOT TO MENTION ANY OTHER TUBES RUNNING ACROSS THE TOP OF THE SUPERCHARGER JUST WOULDN'T LOOK VERY GOOD. SO WE'VE GOT A PRETTY SLICK SOLUTION THAT'S GONNA ELIMINATE THE NEED FOR A FUEL CROSSOVER TUBE GOING FROM ONE FUEL RAIL TO THE OTHER. SIMPLY COME IN HERE WITH THIS ALUMINUM FITTING THAT WE PICKED UP FROM RUSSELL AND USE IT TO PLUG EACH END OF THE FRONT OF THE FUEL RAILS. THEN WE'LL TAKE OUR FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR AND INSTALL IT IN LINE BUT PRIOR TO THE RAILS. WE'LL COME OUT OF ONE SIDE OF THE REGULATOR INTO A YFITTING AND FEED EACH RAIL INDIVIDUALLY. NOW I KNOW YOU'RE PROBABLY SAYING, ISN'T THE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR SUPPOSED TO GO AFTER THE FUEL RAILS? AND YOU'RE RIGHT, THAT'S THE WAY IT HAS BEEN DONE FOR YEARS AND YEARS BUT A LOT OF FUEL SYSTEMS ARE COMING FROM THE FACTORY WITH THE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR PART OF THE FILTER ASSEMBLY OR EVEN ATTACHED TO THE PUMP AND IN THE TANK. SO IF IT'S GOOD ENOUGH FOR THE NEW FIVEO MUSTANG, IT'S GOOD ENOUGH FOR OUR FOURSIX.

(KEVIN)>> HEY WELCOME BACK. WELL WE'RE GONNA DO A VERY COOL PROJECT, HAND FORMING SHEET METAL. AND IT MIGHT LOOK COMPLICATED BUT IT'S NOT, TRUST ME. WHAT WE'RE GONNA START WITH IS OUR ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT MIRROR. LIKE WE SHOWED YOU, WE WANT TO GET SEXIER, PUT THE CARBON FIBER MIRRORS ON, AND THESE GUYS HAVE TO GO AWAY, BUT THIS COULD STILL BE USED AS A PATTERN. WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO IS FORM A BUCK, FORM THE SHEET METAL AROUND IT, AND THEN TRIM TO FIT THE DOOR. IT STARTS OUT WITH A SHEET OF THREEEIGHTHS INCH MDF. AND I'M GONNA MAKE A THREE PIECE BUCK, GIVE US VERSATILITY. WHAT WE DID HERE, WE'VE GOT A LEFT, A RIGHT, AND A CENTER FOR SUPPORT. WE NEED THE DEPTH BECAUSE THE CONTOURS OF THE DOOR DICTATE THAT WE HAVE TO HAVE THAT THICKNESS. SO THIS GIVES US THE ABILITY TO MAKE BOTH SIDES OFF OF ONE BUCK. IT STARTS WITH THE CENTER PIECE AS A PATTERN. OBVIOUSLY THAT FITS THE MIRROR BASE, THIS FITS IN THE INSET OF OUR DOOR, AND GIVES US A PLACE TO START. MDF, OR MEDIUM DENSITY FIBERBOARD, IS CHEAP AND IT'S ALSO EASY TO FORM. I DIDN'T USE A ROUTER TO MAKE THIS PIECE, JUST A GRINDER. YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE YOU HAVE PLENTY OF EDGE TO WORK WITH. SO I'M MARKING MY WORK PIECE AND MARKING ABOUT THREE QUARTERS TO AN INCH AROUND THE ACTUAL BUCK. THAT WAY I'VE GOT LOTS OF ROOM FOR FITMENT. USING MY WOODWARD FAB TOOLS, I'M JUST CUTTING AND TRIMMING THE EDGES OFF. YOU CAN DO THIS WITH HAND SHEARS. YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT YOUR WORK PIECE IS LOCKED TO THE SHEET METAL IN ONE PLACE. SO I'M USING SOME SCREWS WITH PREDRILLED HOLES TO LOCK IT IN PLACE. THEN YOU CAN START FORMING METAL, WHICH STARTS WITH SOME RELIEF CUTS TO MAKE SURE THAT THE CORNERS BEND. A LITTLE BIT OF PRESSURE WITH THE HAMMER SHOWS YOU WHERE YOUR BUCK SITS, AND THEN YOU CAN START TO WORK YOUR ANGLES. NOW YOUR METAL WILL TELL YOU WHEN IT'S TIRED OF MOVING AND WHEN IT'S TIME FOR MORE RELIEF CUTS. THIS IS A PROCESS THAT WHEN YOU PAY ATTENTION, THE TONE OF THE METAL TELLS YOU THINGS, THE RESISTANCE OF THE METAL TELLS YOU THINGS, EVEN THE FEEL OF YOUR HAMMER TELLS YOU WHEN TO PROGRESS FROM WHEN YOU NEED TO MAKE MORE RELIEF CUTS AND WORK THE METAL INTO THE SHAPE THAT YOU WANT. DEPENDING ON WHAT YOU'RE WORKING ON, YOU'RE GONNA KNOW WHEN YOUR BASIC SHAPE HAS BEEN ACHIEVED, AND THEN YOU CAN RELEASE THE STEEL FROM THE BUCK. NOW WITH THE WOODEN BUCK OUT OF THE WAY, YOU CAN REALLY START TO REFINE YOUR PROJECT, WHICH STARTS WITH WELDING THE RELIEF CUTS AND MAKING IT ONE SOLID PIECE OF STEEL AGAIN. THAT WAY YOU CAN FORM AGAINST THE WELDS AND USE THE TENSION OF THE METAL TO YOUR ADVANTAGE. NOW I'M USING A SPOON HERE TO HAMMER AGAINST AND GIVE ME A LITTLE BIT TIGHTER GAP. I'M USING MY MILLERMATIC 140 WITH A TWENTYFIVE THOUSANDTHS DIAMETER WIRE, WHICH GIVES ME A SMALL HEAT EFFECTED ZONE. THE MASKING TAPE JUST GIVES ME A NICE, STRAIGHT GUIDE WHEN I'M REMOVING THE EXCESS METAL. THAT'S FOLLOWED BY SOME MORE RELIEF CUTS BECAUSE WE'RE GONNA ROLL THE FRONT EDGE OVER AND MAKE IT LOOK LIKE A FACTORY STAMPED PIECE, WHICH IS DONE AGAIN WITH A SPOON AND A SHEET METAL HAMMER SLOWLY WITH EVEN PRESSURE AND AN EYE ON WHAT YOU'RE DOING. AND YOU CAN SEE THAT THE MIRROR BASE IS NEARLY DONE. HOWEVER, THE FINISHED PIECE COMPARED, WE STILL HAVE A LITTLE BIT MORE TRIMMING AND TWEAKING TO DO, BUT WE CAN DO THAT UP AGAINST THE VEHICLE. THE POINT IS, WITH A SIMPLE BUCK, AND FEW SIMPLE HAND TOOLS, A LITTLE BIT OF PERSEVERANCE, AND ASKING YOUR METAL NICELY TO DO WHAT YOU WANT IT TO, YOU CAN GET THERE FROM HERE AND YOU CAN MAKE COOL PROJECTS ON YOUR OWN.

(KEVIN)>> HEY, WELCOME BACK. WE'VE GOT OUR MIRROR BASE PLATE BOLTED TO THE DOOR AND THE APR CARBON FIBER MIRROR SCREWED IN AND BOLTED TO THE MIRROR FACE PLATE. HERE'S HOW WE ATTACHED IT, SIMPLE, JUST LIKE THE PROJECT. WE USED SOME QUARTER 20 BOLTS FROM THE INDUSTRIAL DEPOT BIN, TACK WELDED THEM TO THE BACK SIDE IN THE SAME CONFIGURATION AS THE ORIGINAL PLASTIC MIRROR. ON THE OUTSIDE YOU CAN'T TELL THEY'RE THERE. SO YOU'VE GOT ALL THE FREEDOM IN THE WORLD FOR PLACEMENT FOR YOUR MIRROR TO WHERE YOU CAN SEE THE BEST. FROM THE INSIDE, WELL IT'S A FACTORY ATTACHMENT. NOW HERE'S WHY WE WANTED TO STAY WITH THE MAZDA BED SIDES INSTEAD OF GOING FULL ON RANGER CONVERSION LIKE WE DID ON THE NOSE. MAZDA ENGINEERED THIS BULGE INTO THE SIDE OF THE BED. SO WE WORKED OFF OF THAT, SLICED IT, ADDED ANOTHER INCH ON THE OUTSIDE, REMOVED ALL THE BRACING, ROLLED THE EDGE BACK, ADDED ANOTHER TWO INCHES OF TIRE CLEARANCE ON THESE BED SIDES. NOW WE SACRIFICED RIGIDITY ALONG HERE. THE WAY WE BUILT IT BACK WAS BY USING QUARTER INCH STEEL ROD MAKING A PERIMETER HERE, GIVING US A NICE SMOOTH EDGE SO WE WON'T EVER CUT A TIRE. BUT HERE'S ANOTHER MODIFICATION. THIS IS A CHUNK I CUT OUT OF THE BED SIDE AND IT'S PRETTY OBVIOUS WHERE IT WENT. THE BULGE WENT DOWN THIS WAY. HERE'S WHAT WE'RE DOING. WE'RE GONNA CREATE A FUNCTIONAL AIR INLET DUCT THAT'S GONNA GO TO A DUCTED TUBING TO COOL THE BRAKES. IT'S GONNA VERY SIMPLE. IT'S GONNA DRAW AERO OFF THE OUTSIDE OF THE BODY, DUCT IT IN BECAUSE BRAKES HEAT UP, THEY GO AWAY. PROJECT MATERIALS ARE INEXPENSIVE. THREE INCH EXHAUST TUBE ON 20 GAUGE SHEET METAL AND A SIMPLE HOLE SAW ON A HAND DRILL. WHAT YOU'RE DOING IS TRIMMING TO FIT AND SINKING YOUR EXHAUST TUBE INTO THE DUCT WHERE YOU WANT THE AIR DIRECTED. TRIMMING AROUND THE OUTSIDE EDGE, WELL WE OPTED FOR A PLASMA CUTTER BUT YOU COULD ALSO DO THIS WITH A PAIR SNIPS OR A GRINDER. ALRIGHT, SO NOW WE'VE ACHIEVED OUR GOAL OF TAKING OUTSIDE AIR AND PUSHING IT IN INSIDE OF THE WHEEL ARCH INSIDE OF THE BED SIDE. THIS IS OBVIOUSLY NOT FINISHED. WE'RE GONNA COVER THIS OVER AND MAKE A COOL SCOOP, WHICH STARTS WITH 20 GAUGE FLAT STOCK. OBVIOUSLY THAT DOESN'T LOOK VERY GOOD, SO WE'RE GONNA DOME THIS. AND THAT ENDS UP LOOKING LIKE AFTER A FEW MINUTES ON THE ENGLISH WHEEL, AND IT ENDS UP MAKING A NICE COVER WITH A COOL ROUNDED EDGE. NOW WE WANT TO FINISH THIS EDGE OFF. TWO WAYS YOU CAN DO THAT. JUST LIKE WE SHOWED YOU ON THE MIRROR BASE, YOU CAN MAKE A BUCK AND HAMMER FORM IT AROUND. OR YOU CAN DO EXACTLY WHAT WE DID ON THE INSIDE OF THE WHEEL ARCH, TAKE SOME QUARTER INCH STEEL ROD, HAND BEND IT AND IT MAKES A NICE RADIUS, MAKES A NICE CURVED INSIDE EDGE HERE. SO THAT BY THE TIME YOU'VE GOT IT PAINTED, PRIMED, WELDED BACK IN PLACE, IT'S A COOL SEXY LOOK THAT LOOKS FINISHED. IT LOOKS LIKE A FACTORY STAMPING. NOW JUST BECAUSE WE'VE GOT AIR GOING INTO THE BED SIDE DOESN'T MEAN IT'S GOING EXACTLY WHERE WE WANT IT TO. WE DON'T WANT IT JUST TO BOUNCE AROUND INSIDE OF THERE. WE WANT TO CONTROL THAT AIR, FORCE IT ONTO THE BACK SIDE OF THE ROTOR JUST LIKE CARROLL SHELBY DID. THE WAY WE'RE GONNA DO THAT IS VERY COOL, CHECK THIS OUT. NOW JUST LIKE UP FRONT HERE, WE'RE GONNA BE USING FUNCTIONAL BRAKE COOLING DUCTS BY A COMPANY CALLED AGENT 47. AGENT 47 IS BEST KNOWN FOR THEIR FOX BODY MUSTANG HIGH PERFORMANCE ROAD RACE PRODUCTS, WHICH IS PERFECT FOR OUR FRONT SUSPENSION SINCE IF YOU REMEMBER WE'RE USING SN 95, OR MUSTANG, FRONT SPINDLES. SINCE THIS SYSTEM BOLTS RIGHT ONTO TO THESE SPINDLES, IT'S ABSOLUTELY A PERFECT SHOEIN AND A GREAT PROJECT FOR THIS TRUCK. THE HIGH STRENGTH HEAT RESISTANT CORRUGATED TUBING WILL ALLOW US TO DUCT ANYWHERE WE WANT TO, WHICH WE'RE GONNA GO INTO OUR NEW FRONT FASCIA AND FINISH OFF WITH THESE AIR INLET DUCTS, WHICH WE GOT FROM APR WHO ALSO SUPPLIED US WITH THE CUSTOM CARBON FIBER RACE MIRRORS. NOW THIS THING IS GONNA GET US FROM ZERO TO 60 IN ABOUT FOUR SECONDS. WE WANT TO MAKE SURE THIS THING STOPS AS WELL AS IT GOES. COOLING YOUR BRAKES KEEPS YOUR BRAKES.

(KEVIN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO TRUCKS. WELL AS YOU CAN SEE, OUR AIR INDUCTION SCOOP IS LOOKING PRETTY COOL. THERE'S STILL SOME WORK TO DO BECAUSE SOME TRIMMING, AND WELDING, AND THEN FILLING, AND THEN BLOCKING AND PRIMING, ETC. HOWEVER, IT'S GONNA LOOK COOL, BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY THIS IS NOT SOME TACKY SCOOP THAT WE'VE THROWN ONTO THE SIDE OF THE BODY WORK. THIS SUCKER IS FUNCTIONAL, IT'S GONNA REALLY HELP WITH PERFORMANCE AND KEEPING THE BRAKES COOL. NOW YOU GUYS THAT KNOW RANGERS, YOU KNOW THAT THE FUEL DOOR USED TO GO THERE. AS A MATTER OF FACT, HERE IT IS. THIS FUEL DOOR, WE'RE GONNA KEEP IT BECAUSE IT'S FLAT. WE CAN USE THIS IN SOME OTHER CUSTOM PROJECT. SO THAT IS GOING ON THE SHELF. AND THIS FOR NOW, I DON'T KNOW, WE'RE PRETTY HAPPY WITH THE PROGRESS. TELL US WHAT YOU THINK.

(RYAN)>> NOW MOST OF WHAT WE SET OUT TO DO TODAY WE'VE ACCOMPLISHED. WE'VE GOT FUEL LINES RUN, THE SUPERCHARGER'S BOLTED DOWN, THE ENGINE WIRING HARNESS INSTALLED. WE'VE GOT OUR COIL PACKS DROPPED IN AND WE'VE ADDED MOST OF OUR FRONT ENGINE ACCESSORY DRIVE COMPONENTS, BUT WE RAN INTO A LITTLE BIT OF A PROBLEM. THESE '03 AND '04 COBRA ENGINES WERE DESIGNED TO GO IN A MUSTANG AND THEY HAD ENOUGH ROOM FOR THE ALTERNATOR, WHICH WAS SUPPOSED TO GO RIGHT HERE. OUR PROBLEM IS WE'VE GOT A FRAME RAIL AND SUSPENSION IN THE WAY. NOW IF YOU REMEMBER WE'VE GOTTEN RID OF THE AIR CONDITIONING ON OUR RANGER, WHICH MEANS WE DON'T HAVE TO RUN AN A/C PUMP, WHICH LEFT SOME VACANT REAL ESTATE ON THE LOWER PASSENGER SIDE. SO THAT'S WHERE WE FOUND A HOME FOR OUR ALTERNATOR. NOW WE JUST MADE A CUSTOM BRACKET TO LOCATE IT AND IT'S JUST MADE OUT OF EIGHTH INCH PLATE AND 18 GAUGE SHEET METAL. NOW THE SHEET METAL WE'VE ADDED A DIMPLE DYE TO AND THAT DOES A COUPLE OF THINGS. IT MAKES IT LOOK NICER AND IT ADDS STRENGTH. HERE'S HOW YOU MAKE ONE. NOW THE DYE ITSELF HAS TWO HALVES, AND THE MATERIAL YOU'RE WORKING WITH GETS SANDWICHED IN BETWEEN THE TWO. NOW IT DOESN'T TAKE A WHOLE LOT OF PRESSURE TO FORM THE DIMPLE, ESPECIALLY ON THE THIN STUFF. AND JUST LIKE THAT YOU'VE GOT A DIMPLE DYED PIECE OF SHEET METAL. NOW THIS IS KINDA THIN MATERIAL JUST FOR THIS DEMONSTRATION, BUT IT SHOWS THAT THE DIMPLE ADDS ANOTHER DIMENSION TO THIS OTHERWISE FLAT PIECE OF STEEL, AND THAT'S WHERE IT GETS ITS STRENGTH. NOW THIS ISN'T A SCIENTIFIC TEST, JUST A DEMO, CAUSE WE WANTED TO SHOW YOU THAT IT ACTUALLY MAKES A DIFFERENCE.

THAT ONE THERE, SAME SIZE STEEL, SAME HOLE. WELL, YOU TELL ME.

(KEVIN)>> NOW THE LAST TIME I REMOVED A COTTER PIN FROM SOME SUSPENSION PARTS, I ENDED UP BREAKING IT OFF ON BOTH ENDS AND SPENDING AN HOUR TRYING TO DRIVE IT OUT THROUGH THE HOLE. IF I HAD HAD THE EASY PULLER FROM LAS VEGAS TOOL, IT WOULD HAVE BEEN OUT IN SECONDS. CHECK THIS THING OUT. EASY PULLER IS A SIMPLE BUT SMART DESIGN THAT COMBINES A SLIDE HAMMER WITH A PAIR OF HIGH QUALITY LOCKING PLIERS, AND THERE'S TONS OF USES. FOR INSTANCE, THIS SEAL WAS PULLED WITH A TRADITIONAL PULLER. IF WE'D RUN A SCREW THROUGH AND USED THE EASY PULLER, IT WOULD HAVE BEEN OUT IN SECONDS INSTEAD OF MAKING HAMBURGER OUT OF IT. WITH THE EASY PULLER YOU GET AN AFFORDABLE TOOL WITH TONS OF PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS. MAKES YOU WONDER WHY NOBODY HAS COME UP WITH THIS BEFORE. THANKS FOR WATCHING TRUCKS, SEE YOU GUYS NEXT TIME.