1971 Chevy C-10 Brake Upgrades, Bodywork & Painting Doors

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY WE'RE BACK ON OUR '71 CHEVY CHEYENNE. WE'RE UPGRADING TO DISC BRAKES AND WE'RE PAINTING OUR NEW DOORS. THEN IT'S A LITTLE BODY WORK TO COVER UP THE OLD GAS HOLE ON OUR C-10. IT'S ALL TODAY HERE ON TRUCKS.

(KEVIN)>> THIS IS WHERE THE FUEL FILLER DOOR FROM THE F-150 CAME IN.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO TRUCKS. WELL TODAY WE'RE WORKING ON OUR '71 C-10, AND WE'VE GOT THE REAR AXLE PULLED OUT OF IT. THAT'S BECAUSE THE LAST TIME WE WORKED ON THIS TRUCK, WE SHOWED YOU GUYS HOW WE REBUILT THE STOCK LIMITED

SLIP DIFFERENTIAL, BUT WE STOPPED SHORT OF REINSTALLING THE AXLE ASSEMBLY BECAUSE WE'VE GOT A BRAKE UPGRADE IN MIND THAT WOULD INVOLVE DOING THE SAME STEPS.

SO WE THOUGHT WE'D JUST BE EFFICIENT AND KNOCK OUT BOTH PROJECTS BEFORE REINSTALLING THIS THING. NOW ONE OF THE REASONS WE WANTED TO DO A LITTLE WORK TO THE BRAKES IS BECAUSE OF THIS, CHECK IT OUT. LOOKS LIKE SOMEBODY LOST A WHEEL AT ONE TIME GOING DOWN THE HIGHWAY AND DID A LITTLE BIT OF ROAD

GRINDING TO THE DRUM. SO WE FIGURED RATHER THAN THROW NEW MONEY AT OLD PARTS

AND TECHNOLOGY, WE'D TAKE THE OPPORTUNITY TO UPGRADE TO DISCS. NOW WHAT WE'RE USING TO DO THAT IS A DISC BRAKE CONVERSION KIT FROM LMC TRUCK, AND IT INCLUDES A PAIR OF NEW CALIPERS WITH BUILT IN PARKING BRAKE ASSEMBLIES, NEW PARKING BRAKE CABLES, BRAKE HOSES AND LINES, A NEW PROPORTIONING VALVE SET UP FOR DISCS FRONT AND REAR AS OPPOSED TO A DISC/DRUM SETUP THAT THE FACTORY USES. WE'VE ALSO GOT NEW MOUNTING BRACKETS AND OF COURSE A COUPLE OF NEW ROTORS. NOW THE FIRST STEP IS PULLING THE AXLE SHAFTS, AND THAT MEANS REMOVING THE DIFF COVER SO YOU CAN GET TO THE CCLIPS THAT HOLD THE AXLE SHAFTS IN PLACE. AND JUST LIKE WE SHOWED YOU WHEN WE REBUILT THE LIMITED SLIP, YOU'VE GOT TO PULL THE CROSS SHAFT RETAINING BOLT

AND THE CROSS SHAFT SO YOU CAN GET TO THE CCLIPS. AND THEN WITH THEM REMOVED YOU CAN PULL THE AXLE SHAFT. WITH THE SHAFTS OUT OF THE WAY YOU CAN PULL THE BACKING PLATE.

COOL, NOW THE NEXT STEP IS MORE OF A MAINTENANCE STEP. WE'RE GONNA REPLACE THE SEAL BECAUSE OBVIOUSLY IT'S BEEN SEEPING A LITTLE BIT, AND WE'RE GONNA REPLACE THE BEARING RIGHT BEHIND IT BECAUSE IT'S BEEN SPINNING FOR 40 PLUS YEARS. THE GOOD THING ABOUT THE GREASE IS IT KEEPS THE STEEL FROM RUSTING. USING A SEAL PULLER.

WITH THE SEAL OUT OF THE WAY, WE'RE GONNA REMOVE THE BEARINGS WITH A SLIDE HAMMER. LETS SEE IF IT COMES OUT WITH THE ROLLERS STILL IN PLACE.

WELL THERE'S A FIRST TIME FOR EVERYTHING, AND THAT'S THE EASIEST ONE I'VE EVER PULLED OUT, NICE. NOW IF YOU'RE DOING A JOB LIKE THIS AND YOU'RE WONDERING IF YOU NEED TO REPLACE THE AXLE AND BEARINGS OR NOT, WELL ALL IT TAKES IS A QUICK INSPECTION. WHAT YOU'RE LOOKING FOR IS ANY PITTING OR CORROSION ON THE AXLE ROLLERS THEMSELVES, OR ANY SIGNS OF EXCESSIVE HEAT BUILD UP. THESE LOOK TO BE IN GOOD SHAPE AND ARGUABLY THEY'RE REUSABLE BUT WE'RE GONNA REPLACE THEM ANYWAY SINCE I YANKED THEM OUT OF THE AXLE TUBE. YOU ALSO WANT TO TAKE A LOOK AT THE AXLE SHAFT WHERE THE BEARING RIDES. SAME THING, YOU'RE LOOKING FOR PITTING, OR CORROSION, OR EXCESSIVE HEAT BUILD UP. OUR SHAFT LOOKS TO BE IN GOOD SHAPE. NOW YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE NOT TO DAMAGE THE BEARING ON INSTALLATION. SO I'M USING THE OLD RACE FROM THE ORIGINAL BEARING TO DRIVE IT IN. YOU'LL KNOW WHEN IT'S ALL THE WAY IN TOO CAUSE THE METAL ON METAL SOUND WILL CHANGE. ALSO BE CAREFUL WHEN DRIVING IN THE NEW SEAL. JUST LIGHT TAPPING!

AND AFTER WE LUBRICATE THE SEAL A LITTLE BIT WITH A LITTLE BIT OF GEAR OIL WE CAN INSTALL THE AXLE SHAFT BEING CAREFUL NOT TO CATCH THE SPLINES ON THE LIP OF THE SEAL, CAUSING A FUTURE LEAK. THEN WE CAN GET STARTED ON INSTALLING THE PROVIDED PARTS AND HARDWARE. THESE BRAKE CALIPER MOUNTING BRACKETS HAVE A NICE ZINC COATING, WHICH SHOULD FEND OFF CORROSION FOR A LONG, LONG TIME. WHEN INSTALLING THE BRAKE CALIPER, YOU NEED TO REMEMBER THAT THE BRAKE BLEED SCREW POINTS UPWARD. OTHERWISE YOU'LL NEVER GET YOUR REAR BRAKES BLED, AND WHEN YOU ASK YOUR BUDDIES FOR HELP, THEY'LL PROBABLY GET YOU STRAIGHTENED OUT BUT THEY'LL PROBABLY ALSO NEVER LET YOU FORGET ABOUT IT.

DOESN'T HAVE TO BE SUPER TIGHT. YOU DON'T WANT IT COMING LOOSE EITHER. THEN WE CAN FINISH THINGS UP WITH THE FLEX LINE AND THE BANJO BOLT THAT WAS PROVIDED IN THE KIT. JUST DON'T FORGET THE COPPER SEALING WASHERS. JUST HAND TIGHTEN THAT FOR NOW UNTIL WE GET THIS POSITIONED. NOW THE KIT INCLUDES BRAKE LINE, PADS, AND CLIPS TO SUPPORT THE HARD LINE TO SOFT LINE CONNECTION. IT ALSO INCLUDES THESE PRETTY SLICK STAINLESS STEEL BAND CLAMPS TO LOCK EVERYTHING IN PLACE. THESE ARE A LIFE SAVER IF YOU DON'T HAVE ACCESS TO A WELDER, BUT WE'VE GOT OUR AXLE TUBE CLEANED UP AND WE DO HAVE A WELDER. SO WE'LL PROBABLY JUST WELD THIS BRACKET IN PLACE. NOW I'M GONNA FINISH ASSEMBLING THE OTHER SIDE, GET THE AXLE PAINTED, THEN WE'RE FINISHING THE PLUMBING.

(KEVIN)>> HEY, WELCOME BACK. WELL OBVIOUSLY WE'RE IN THE SPRAY BOOTH AND WE'VE GOT A BUNCH OF C-10 PARTS IN HERE. BUT IT'S NOT JUST SHEET METAL. WE'VE ALSO GOT THE REAR AXLE SINCE RYAN HAS DONE THE DIFF REBUILD AND A DISC BRAKE CONVERSION. AND SINCE EVERYTHING'S BLACK WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU WHAT WE KNOW AS COMMON PRACTICE IN COLLISION REPAIR. THAT'S BASICALLY TAKING ADVANTAGE OF THE HUGE AMOUNT

OF SPACE THAT WE'VE GOT HERE IN THE BOOTH. AND SINCE EVERYTHING IS USING THE SAME GROUND COAT, THE SAME COLOR, AND A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENT CLEAR, WELL WE DON'T EVEN HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT OVER SPRAY.

NOW TODAY WE'RE USING PPG PRODUCTS. AND LIKE I ALWAYS RECOMMEND, WE'RE STAYING WITHIN A SYSTEM OF CHEMICALS, STARTING OFF WITH A DP 90

LF, WHICH IS A BLACK EPOXY. EPOXY STICKS TO ANYTHING AND ANYTHING STICKS TO IT. SO IT'S A PERFECT GROUND COAT FOR ALL THREE PARTS THAT WE'RE GONNA BE SHOOTING. WE'RE GONNA FOLLOW WITH THE SAME BLACK MID COAT OR COLOR COAT ON ALL THREE PARTS. BUT THE DIFFERENCE IS GONNA BE WITH THE 2021 FULL GLOSS CLEAR AND THE 2060 FLAT CLEAR, AND IT'S GONNA GIVE THAT AXLE THE SEMIGLOSS FINISH THAT IT NEEDS AND THE DOORS THE SUPER HIGH GLOSS TO MATCH THE REST OF THE TRUCK. DPLF STANDS FOR LEAD FREE, WHICH MEANS IT'S SAFER TO USE BUT YOU STILL HAVE TO PAY ATTENTION

TO SAFETY EQUIPMENT. WE'RE MIXING A FOUR TO TWO TO ONE RATIO WITH 885 DEGREE REDUCER, AND STIRRING COMPLETELY BEFORE IT'S POURED INTO THE CUP THROUGH A STRAINER ALWAYS. THE FUNCTION OF A SEALER HERE IS TO GIVE US A UNIFORM COLOR TO SPRAY OUR COLOR COATS ON, BUT ALSO TO COVER UP ANY BARE METAL THAT WE MAY HAVE SANDED THROUGH TO. JUST MAKE SURE THE PAINT STICKS AND IT STICKS THE FIRST TIME SO WE DON'T END UP DOING THIS TWICE. THE EPOXY HAS A 30 MINUTE INDUCTION TIME. WHAT THAT MEANS IS YOU'VE GOT TO WAIT 30 MINUTES BEFORE GOING TO THE NEXT STEP, WHICH IS OUR COLOR, WHICH IS BLACK. NOW TECHNICALLY YOU CAN GET AWAY WITH CLEAR COATING THE BLACK EPOXY, BUT THE BLACK COLOR THAT WE'RE SPRAYING ON MATCHES THE REST OF THE TRUCK, AND MAKE SURE THAT OUR REPAIR IS SEEPLESS. NOW WE'RE GONNA START WITH OUR 2060 FIX AN FLAT CLEAR, WHICH HAS BEEN SHAKEN AGGRESSIVELY ON A SHAKER BECAUSE IT'S GOT A FLATTENING AGENT IN IT AND IT CAN SETTLE. SO YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE IT'S AGITATED REALLY WELL. WE'RE USING A FOUR TO ONE TO ONE MIX IN OUR CUP, WHICH IS ON THE SIDE OF THE CAN HERE. SO I THINK I'M GONNA NEED PROBABLY ABOUT HALF A QUART. SO OUR FIRST POUR IS CLEAR AND OUR NEXT ONE IS CATALYST, AND THAT'S IT. WE JUST FILL THE CLEAR UP TO THE FIRST LINE AND THE CATALYST OR HARDENER UP TO THE SECOND. NOW BOTH CLEAR COATS HAVE THE SAME MIX RATIO AND WE'RE MIXING THEM BOTH AT THE SAME TIME. THE FIRST COMPONENT IS THE CLEAR, THE SECOND IS THE CATALYST, AND THE THIRD ON THE NEXT COLUMN OVER IS THE REDUCER. THE HIGH GLOSS 2021 CLEAR IS A HIGH SOLVENT CLEAR AND ONLY REQUIRES TWO COATS. THE COATS HAVE TO BE FULL AND WET, BUT TWO COATS GIVES YOU PLENTY OF COVERAGE. YOU CAN SEE THE OBVIOUS DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE FLAT CLEAR AND THE CRYSTAL CLEAR CLEAR COATS. BOTH ARE APPLIED THE SAME WAY USING A SEPARATE ANESTIWATA SPRAY GUNS WITH ONE POINT THREE MILLIMETER FLUID TIPS. NOW HERE'S ANOTHER QUESTION I GET A LOT, HOW DO I KNOW IF I'VE GOT ENOUGH SPRAYABLE PAINT MIX. BECAUSE THE LAST THING YOU WANT IS TO RUN OUT OF PAINT ON THE LAST COAT, ESPECIALLY WITH YOUR CLEAR. SO HERE'S AN EASY WAY TO FIGURE THAT OUT. WE KNOW THAT FOR OUR GLOSS CLEAR WE MIX UP TO THIS LINE RIGHT HERE. SO THAT WAS OUR FULL AMOUNT. SO ALL I DO IS IN BETWEEN COATS, BECAUSE I HAVE TO WAIT FOR THE FLASH TIME, I POUR WHAT I'VE GOT LEFT IN MY MIXING CUP. YOU'RE ALWAYS GONNA NEED A LITTLE BIT EXTRA FOR THE SECOND COAT.

SO ALL I'M DOING IS LOOKING. WELL I'VE GOT A LITTLE BIT MORE THAN HALF

OF MY TOTAL MIX. SO THAT'S GONNA GIVE ME MORE THAN HALF OF WHAT I MIX COMPLETELY FOR THIS SECOND COAT. SO NOW THAT I KNOW THAT I'VE GOT ENOUGH, THE NEXT TIME YOU GUYS SEE THESE PARTS, THE CLEAR GLOSS WILL BE REALLY GLOSSY, AND THE SEMIGLOSS OR EGG SHELL FLAT WILL LOOK JUST LIKE THE OE CHASSIS BLACK

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. NOW AS YOU MAY KNOW, WE'VE PULLED THE FUEL TANK OUT OF THE CAB ON THIS TRUCK AND REPLACED IT WITH ONE THAT WE'VE RELOCATED UNDERNEATH THE BED FLOOR. AND THAT LEFT US WITH A FUEL FILLER NECK THAT DIDN'T LEAD TO ANYTHING. AND AS FAR AS WE WERE CONCERNED, IT NEEDED TO BE PULLED OUT OF THERE BECAUSE IT WAS RATHER POINTLESS. NOW YOU GUYS THAT WATCH THE SHOW REGULARLY, WELL YOU KNOW THAT I'M NOT REALLY A PAINT AND BODY GUY. THAT'S MORE OF KEVIN'S STRONG SUIT. BUT A PROJECT LIKE THIS, FILLING THIS HOLE IN THE

SHEET METAL, IS SOMETHING THAT EVEN I CAN HANDLE. MY GUESS IS THAT IF I CAN DO IT, SO CAN YOU. NOW WE CAN'T JUST USE A PIECE OF FLAT SHEET METAL

TO MAKE THE PATCH PANEL. THIS AREA HERE HAS A PRETTY GOOD CONTOUR, AND IF WE USED FLAT STEEL WE'D END UP USING MORE FILLER THAN REALLY WANTED TO. SO WHAT WE NEED TO DO IS CREATE A LITTLE BIT OF A DOME IN THIS METAL. THAT'S EASY ENOUGH. NOW WE'RE LUCKY ENOUGH TO HAVE AN ENGLISH WHEEL RIGHT HERE IN THE SHAPE TO PUT A LITTLE BIT OF SHAPE INTO AN OTHERWISE FLAT SHEET METAL PANEL. COOL, STARTING TO GET SOME DECENT DOME THERE.

IT'S PROBABLY GOOD ACTUALLY! NOW IF YOU DON'T HAVE AN ENGLISH WHEEL, MY GUESS IS YOU DO HAVE A HAMMER, AND YOU CAN GET SIMILAR RESULTS

BY USING ONE OF THOSE. REMEMBER, YOU'RE JUST AFTER A ROUGH SHAPE. SHOOT, THAT'S GOOD!

AND AFTER MAKING A TEMPLATE AND CUTTING IT OUT, WELL WHAT WE ENDED UP WITH WAS A SLIGHTLY DOMED PATCH PANEL. AND WHILE IT'S NOT PERFECT, IT'S MUCH BETTER THAN USING FLAT STEEL AND A BUNCH OF FILLER. NOW SINCE WE'RE WELDING ON OUR PATCH PANEL, WE OBVIOUSLY NEED TO SAND DOWN SOME BARE METAL SO WE CAN DO SO.

TO DO THAT WE'RE USING A DIE GRINDER AND A SANDING DISC ON THE FACE OF THE PANEL.

FOR THE INLET I'M USING A DIE GRINDER AND CARBIDE BURR JUST TO KIND OF GET ALL THE PAINT OFF. LIKE I SAID, I'M NOT A BODY MAN. I'M JUST USING WHAT WE'VE GOT LAYING AROUND. THAT OUGHT TO DO IT. THIS WILL FINISH OUT THAT EDGE. JUST REMEMBER THAT WHEN DOING YOUR SURFACE PREP NOT TO NICK OR SCRATCH ANY OF THE AREAS YOU DON'T PLAN ON REPAIRING. NOW ON SMALL PATCHES OR REPAIRS LIKE THIS, IT SURE

IS HANDY TO BE ABLE TO PUT THE PIECE OF METAL ON THE END OF A MAGNET AND NOT BURN YOUR FINGERTIPS. SPEAKING OF WHICH, GETTING THE PATCH TO FIT IN CORRECTLY IS ALMOST AS MUCH ABOUT FEEL AS IT IS ABOUT SIGHT, AND THAT'S ONE OF THE REASONS I LIKE TO WEAR TIG

WELDING GLOVES WHEN DOING WORK LIKE THIS. IT JUST NEEDS TO BE PERSUADED DOWN A LITTLE

BIT WHERE IT ACTUALLY DIPS BACK UP. I'LL TELL YOU WHAT, I'LL BE A BODY MAN IN NO TIME. IF YOU'RE WEARING THICKER GLOVES, DON'T BE AFRAID TO TAKE THE GLOVES OFF AND FEEL THE METAL ONCE IT'S COOLED DOWN OF COURSE. NOW WE'RE WORKING ON AN AREA OF THE CAB THAT HAS A LOT OF BENDS, AND CURVES, AND CONTOURS, AND A

LOT OF INHERENT STRENGTH. SO WE'RE NOT A REAL HIGH RISK OF EXCESSIVELY WARPING THE SHEET METAL.

STILL IT'S GOOD PRACTICE TO DO A ROUND OF TACK WELDS AND LET IT COOL AS TO NOT OVERHEAT THE METAL. WE'RE USING AN AIR NOZZLE TO SPEED UP THE PROCESS A LITTLE BIT. NOW GRINDING CAN CAUSE THE SAME HEAT THAT WELDING CAUSES. SO AGAIN WE'RE USING AN AIR NOZZLE TO COOL OFF THE METAL. GRIND IT DOWN USING A PRETTY AGGRESSIVE SANDING DISC AND A DIE GRINDER, SLOWLY WORKING IT DOWN TO LEVEL. ALRIGHT, WELL THAT TURNED OUT PRETTY GOOD AND IT WASN'T EVEN THAT DIFFICULT, EVEN FOR A GUY LIKE ME. SO NOW YOU GET TO TRY YOUR HAND AT SOME FILLER OR GET A HOLD OF YOUR BUDDY WHO DOES THIS KIND OF THING.

KEVIN!

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. WELL KEVIN'S GOT THE REAR AXLE PAINTED, IT LOOKS GOOD, AND I'VE GOT IT REASSEMBLED, PLUMBED, FILLED WITH GEAR OIL, AND READY FOR INSTALLATION. SO WHAT WE'VE GOT IS A NICE 12 BOLT WITH A LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL AND DISC BRAKES, MAKING IT A LITTLE BIT MORE MODERN AND A BETTER MATCH FOR THE REST OF OUR DRIVETRAIN.

(KEVIN)>> AS WELL AS THE REAR AXLE WE'VE GOT BOTH DOORS SHOT.

AND AS SOON AS THE PAINT'S CURED ENOUGH TO BUILD THE

DOORS BACK UP WE'LL GET THEM BACK ON THE CAB. SPEAKING OF CAB, RYAN DID A GREAT JOB OF FILLING THE FILLER NECK HOLE IN THE CAB CORNER. SO THE BODY WORK PHASE OF THIS TRUCK IS JUST ABOUT DONE. SPEAKING OF BODY WORK, THERE'S ONE MORE THING WE WANT TO SHOW YOU. NOW IF YOU'RE UP ON YOUR PICK UP TRUCKS YOU RECOGNIZE THIS AS A LATE MODEL FORD F-150 BED SIDE. AND THE ONLY THING IT ACTUALLY HAS IN COMMON WITH OUR TRUCK IS THE COLOR, BUT LOOKS WHAT'S MISSING. WE TOOK THE SWING HINGE OUT OF THE FUEL DOOR BECAUSE WE WANTED TO DO SOMETHING CUSTOM, SOMETHING COOL. SINCE WE RELOCATED THE FUEL TANK UNDERNEATH THE BED, WE HAD TO FIND A PLACE CLOSE THAT WE COULD PUT THE FUEL FILLER. AND SINCE WE WANT TO USE THIS TRUCK LIKE A TRUCK, WE

DIDN'T WANT TO SACRIFICE THE BED FLOOR, AND THAT'S KIND OF THE EASIEST THING TO DO. SO OUR FIRST THOUGHT WAS TO RELOCATED THE FUEL FILLER IN BEHIND THE TAILLIGHT LIKE THE OLD TRIFIVE CHEVYS AND HAVE A SWING OUT LIGHT TO WHERE WE COULD FILL BACK HERE. THE PROBLEM WITH THAT IS THAT THIS IS BOXED INTERNALLY, A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT LAYERS, AND QUITE FRANKLY IT WAS JUST TOO HARD TO DO AND IT WOULDN'T WORK. SO WHERE ELSE DO YOU SEE ENOUGH REAL ESTATE TO FACILITATE A FUEL FILLER NECK AND KEEP THE COOL LOOKS OF THIS CLASSIC PICK UP TRUCK? THE ANSWER, RIGHT HERE. THIS IS WHERE THE FUEL FILLER DOOR FROM THE F-150 CAME IN. AND I MADE A FLAT PLATE HERE THAT FACILITATES THE MARKER LIGHT AND THE BULB IS GOING TO WORK, IT'S GOING TO BE FUNCTIONAL BECAUSE I'LL RUN MY WIRING DOWN HERE. NOW RIGHT HERE WITH THE FEEL THROUGH CAP AND THE LATE MODEL NECK, THIS IS COOL STUFF FROM ROCK AUTO DOT COM. I WENT TO THE ROCK AUTO DOT COM WEBSITE. AND SINCE THEY'VE GOT GREAT VISUAL IMAGES FOR ALL OF THEIR PARTS, I WAS ABLE TO FIND THE FILLER NECK THAT BEST SUITED OUR NEEDS HERE. THE ICING ON THE CAKE WAS THAT IT ALSO HAD A FILL THROUGH CAP. WHICH SINCE WE DON'T HAVE A LOT OF REAL ESTATE, THIS IS GOING TO COME IN HANDY.

NOW THE REST OF THIS STUFF, WELL IT'S JUST SIMPLE SHEET METAL FAB. WITH THE HELP OF SOME WOODWARD AND FAB TOOLS, WELL WE GOT IT ALL DONE AND IT'S STUFF THAT YOU GUYS CAN DO IF HOME IF YOU THINK OUT OF THE BOX. SORRY FOR THE PUN. THE REST OF IT, WELL, A LITTLE BIT OF BED LINER, A LITTLE BIT OF SEALER, AND SOME , WE'VE GOT A SERVICEABLE FUEL NECK THAT ALL BUT DISAPPEARS, AND THAT'S COOL. OH YEAH, AND ONE LAST THING. BACK HERE WE'VE GOT A MAGNETIC LATCH. SO THAT WHEN WE CLOSE THE LIGHT IT DOESN'T RATTLE

GOING DOWN THE ROAD. IF YOU'VE GOT A VEHICLE WITH COMPOSITE HEADLIGHTS THAT'S GOT A LITTLE BIT OF AGE ON IT, MAYBE THEY'RE CLOUDED UP, MAYBE THEY'RE CRACKED OR BROKEN.

YOU NEED TO PASS A SAFETY INSPECTION. OR MAYBE YOU'RE REBUILDING A SALVAGE VEHICLE LIKE WE'VE SHOWED YOU HOW ON TRUCKS. WELL ROCK AUTO DOT COM HAS GOT A GREAT SOLUTION FOR REPLACEMENT LIGHTS. THESE AFFORDABLE HEAD AND TAILLIGHT ASSEMBLIES COME READY TO BOLT INTO THE FACTORY LOCATIONS. FULLY STOCK WITH BLUBS, WITH OE STYLE HARNESSES, MAKING THEM A PLUG AND PLAY INSTALL. ROCK AUTO DOT COM'S WEBSITE IS EASY TO NAVIGATE, SO NOW THERE'S NO MORE TRIPS TO THE DEALERSHIP.

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