1971 Chevy C-10 LQ4 Cam Swap!

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY WE'RE ADDING MORE HORSEPOWER AND

TORQUE TO OUR '71 C-10'S TRANSPLANTED LQ FOUR ENGINE. FIRST WE'LL BE SWAPPING OUT THE CAM.

THEN UPGRADING THE VALVETRAIN TO TAKE FULL ADVANTAGE OF OUR NEW FOUND POWER. IT'S ALL TODAY HERE ON TRUCKS.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO TRUCKS. NOW THE LAST TIME WE HAD OUR '71 C-10 IN THE SHOP WE DID A REAR DISC BRAKE CONVERSION, KEVIN PAINTED

THE DOORS, AND RELOCATED THE FUEL FILLER NECK TO BEHIND THE RIGHT REAR MARKER LIGHT. AND AS IT SITS YOU'RE PROBABLY THINKING THAT WE'RE DONE WITH THIS PROJECT. WE'VE A LATE MODEL FUEL INJECTED DRIVETRAIN IN IT, IT'S ALL PAINTED UP AND LOOKING GOOD, DISC BRAKES AT ALL FOUR CORNERS, AND WE'VE GOT IT LOWERED DOWN AND SITTING ON SOME NICE TIRES AND WHEELS. SO WE CAN THROW IN THE TOWEL RIGHT NOW AND HAVE A NICELY STYLED CLASSIC DRIVER, BUT WE'RE STILL A LITTLE BIT SHORT OF THE HORSEPOWER AND TORQUE LEVELS WE WERE AT WITH THE HIGH COMPRESSION 454 GAS GUZZLING BIG BLOCK

THAT WE PULLED OUT OF THIS THING. AND WHILE WE'VE ADDED RELIABILITY, DRIVABILITY, FUEL ECONOMY, AND THROTTLE RESPONSE, WE WANT TO GET BACK TO THOSE PREVIOUS POWER LEVELS. NOW THE THEME WITH THIS TRUCK HAS KINDA BEEN TO STICK TO A SOMEWHAT MODERATE BUDGET, AND WE'RE GONNA CONTINUE THAT THEME TODAY WITH A PROJECT WE'VE GOT IN MIND. NOW THAT BUDGET MINDED PROJECT IS A CAM SWAP. SO WE CALLED UP LUNATI AND HAD THEM SEND US ONE OF THEIR HYDRAULIC ROLLER CAMS, REPLACEMENT VALVE SPRINGS, ALONG WITH SOME SPRING RETAINERS, SEATS, AND LOCKS.

NOW WE'VE ASSEMBLED A FEW ENGINES HERE AT THE TRUCKS SHOP, BUT WE'RE NOT ENGINE BUILDERS. THERE'S A BIG DIFFERENCE. SO WHEN IT CAME TIME TO SELECT A CAM SHAFT, WE JUST CALLED THE LUNATI TECH LINE, GAVE THEM SOME INFO ABOUT THE TRUCK AND ITS INTENDED USE, AND THEY SELECTED OR PICKED OUT ONE OF THEIR VOODOO SERIES CAM SHAFTS FOR US. THIS CAM HAS A DURATION AT 50 THOUSANDTHS OF 212 DEGREES ON THE INTAKE SIDE AND 218 DEGREES ON THE EXHAUST SIDE WITH A GROSS VALVE LIFT OF POINT FIVE THREE ONE INCHES AND A LOBE SEPARATION ANGLE OF 113 DEGREES. NOW THE VOODOO SERIES CAMS AREN'T JUST

FOR HIGH RPM POWER. THEY'RE DESIGNED TO DELIVER MAXIMUM POWER AND TORQUE THROUGHOUT THE RPM RANGE, MAKING THIS THING A GREAT CHOICE FOR OUR STREET TRUCK. ALRIGHT, NOW YOU CAN SEE ALL THE PARTS WE HAD TO TAKE OFF TO GET THE TRUCK SITTING LIKE IT IS. AND IT LOOKS LIKE A LOT BUT IT REALLY ONLY TOOK US ABOUT AN HOUR OR TWO TO GET IT BLOWN APART AND ALL THE COOLANT DRAINED OUT OF THE BLOCK. IT'LL JUST MAKE IT THAT MUCH EASIER TO WORK ON AND EASIER ON OUR BACKS NOT HAVING TO BEND OVER THE FENDER.

NOW WE SHOULD FINALLY GET STARTED ON THAT CAM SWAP. NOW YOU DON'T HAVE TO BLOWN THE WHOLE FRONT END OF THE VEHICLE APART TO GET THE JOB DONE. THIS JUST MAKES IT EASIER FOR YOU TO SEE WHAT WE'RE DOING. NOW WE'VE HAD OUR MECHANICAL FAN CLUTCH OFF BEFORE. SO IT CAME OFF KINDA EASY WITH A FEW

STRIKES FROM THE HAMMER. NOW NOTE THE SMALL DIAMETER HOSE GOING INTO THE TOP OF THE WATER PUMP. THAT'S NOT AN OE HOSE.

THAT'S WHERE WE HAVE OUR STEAM PORTS ROUTED BACK

INTO THE COOLING SYSTEM. NOW TO REMOVE THE HARMONIC BALANCER WE HAD TO BORROW A LATE MODEL LS BALANCER/PULLER FROM THE GUYS NEXT DOOR AT HORSEPOWER. NOW I'M ONLY USING AN IMPACT TO TIGHTEN UP THE PULLER. THEN I'M SWITCHING OVER TO A RATCHET AND MANUALLY PULLING THE BALANCER OFF. YOU NEED TO RESIST THE TEMPTATION TO USE POWER TOOLS ON PULLER AND TOOLS LIKE THIS. YOU RUN A HIGH RISK OF DAMAGING THE THREADS AND MESSING UP THE TOOL. NOW WITH THE TIMING COVER UNBOLTED, I'M USING A LITTLE BIT OF COMPRESSED AIR TO BLOW ANY GRIME OR GRIT AWAY SO IT DOESN'T FALL DOWN INTO THE OIL PAN. AND WITH THE COVER OUT OF THE WAY I'M ALSO USING A

PAPER SHOP TOWEL TO AVOID THE SAME PROBLEM. THEN YOU CAN MOVE UP TO THE TOP SIDE OF THE ENGINE AND REMOVE THE COIL PACKS, SET THEM OUT OF THE WAY, AND REMOVE THE VALVE COVERS. THESE LATE MODEL LS ENGINES ARE PRETTY EASY TO WORK ON.

THEN YOU CAN REMOVE ALL THE ROCKERS AND THE PUSH RODS.

IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO KEEP ALL THESE PARTS IN ORDER FOR REASSEMBLY LATER. OUR ENGINE SEEMS TO BE PRETTY CLEAN. THEN YOU CAN REMOVE THE UPPER TIMING GEAR AND SET THE CHAIN OUT OF THE WAY. THEN REMOVE THE CAM RETAINING PLATE BEING CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE GASKET THAT SITS ON THE BACK SIDE OF IT. THEN WE USE A COUPLE OF OLD WATER PUMP BOLTS TO ACT AS A NEW HANDLE FOR OUR OLD CAM SHAFT. NOW ON A LOT OF PUSH ROD ENGINES YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE INTAKE MANIFOLD SO YOU CAN GAIN ACCESS TO THE LIFTER VALLEY SO YOU CAN PHYSICALLY REMOVE THE LIFTERS SO YOU CAN PULL THE CAM SHAFT OUT. BUT ON THESE LS STYLE ENGINES YOU CAN LEAVE THE INTAKE IN PLACE IN PLACE SAVING SOME TIME BECAUSE THE LIFTERS ARE CAPABLE OF BEING SUSPENDED IN THEIR LIFTER BORES VIA FRICTION. NOW THEY DO MAKE SPECIAL TOOLS THAT GO IN HERE AND HERE TO MAKE SURE THAT THE LIFTERS STAY SUSPENDED. WE DON'T HAVE ACCESS TO THOSE TOOLS RIGHT NOW, SO WE'RE GONNA RELY ON THE FRICTION METHOD AND WE'RE JUST NOT GONNA TEMPT FATE TOO MUCH. WE'RE GONNA MAKE OUR CAM SWAP RATHER QUICK.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. NOW WE'RE JUST ABOUT READY TO INSTALL OUR NEW CAM SHAFT. BUT LIKE WE MENTIONED EARLIER, WE DON'T WANT TO

PULL THE OLD CAM SHAFT OUT AND HAVE TO WAIT ANY LENGTH OF TIME AND RISK A LIFTER FALLING OUT OF THE BORE AND CAUSING US A BIG FAT HEADACHE. SO WE WANT TO MAKE SURE OUR NEW CAM SHAFT IS FULLY PREPPED AND READY FOR INSTALLATION AS SOON AS THE OLD ONE COMES OUT. AND THAT MEANS A QUICK CLEANING AND A LITTLE LUBRICATION. NOW THESE CAMS ARE HOLLOW, SO WE'RE GONNA USE A SMALL PIECE OF SCOTT PRO SHOT TOWELS AND A TIG WIRE TO

PASS IT THROUGH THE CENTER AND MAKE SURE THERE'S

NO TRASH OR DEBRIS.

NOW MOST CAMS COME CLEAN AND READY FOR INSTALLATION BUT IT'S JUST GOOD CHEAP INSURANCE. NOW WE'RE ALSO WIPING DOWN THE LOBES OF THE CAM SHAFT JUST FOR GOOD MEASURE. AND SINCE IT'S A ROLLER CAM, WELL JUST A LITTLE BIT OF

ENGINE OIL WILL BE ENOUGH TO PROVIDE LUBRICATION ON FIRST START UP. NOW BEFORE REMOVING THE ORIGINAL CAM SHAFT, LIKE WE

TOLD YOU EARLIER, YOU'VE GOT TO SUSPEND THE LIFTERS UP IN THE BORES. AND THAT MEANS GIVING THE CAM SHAFT TWO OR THREE QUICK SPINS SO THE LIFTERS CAN GET PUSHED UP IN THEIR BORES AND

SUSPENDED BY THE LITTLE PLASTIC CUPS OR FINGERS. THAT SHOULD DO IT. ALRIGHT, NOW WE'RE RUNNING INTO A LITTLE BIT OF A HICK

UP BECAUSE I CAN HEAR ONE, MAYBE TWO LIFTERS FALLING BACK DOWN TO THE CAM. AND WITH 100,000 PLUS MILES ON THIS ENGINE, MAYBE THOSE

LITTLE PLASTIC FINGERS AREN'T AS STRONG AS THEY ONCE WERE. SO TO MAKE SURE WE DON'T HAVE TO TEAR APART THIS ENGINE IN SEARCH OF A FALLEN LIFTER, I'M GOING TO

DO A COUPLE OF THINGS. FIRST I'M GOING TO FIND THE LIFTER THAT'S FALLING BACK DOWN AND USE THIS PEN MAGNET TO HELP SUSPEND IT. I'VE ALSO TAKEN THIS WOODEN DOWEL, SPLIT DOWN THE MIDDLE, AND THAT WAY WE CAN INSERT IT INTO THESE BORES AND PROVIDE A LITTLE EXTRA FRICTION TO THE LIFTER AND PREVENT THEM FROM FALLING BACK DOWN. WE CAN GET THIS CAM SWAPPED OUT.

NOW THE VICE GRIPS WE'VE GOT HANGING ON THE WOODEN DOWELS

JUST HELP PROVIDE A LITTLE BIT MORE FRICTION OR TENSION AGAINST THE LIFTERS, KEEPING THEM FROM FALLING DOWN. NOW WHEN REMOVING THE CAM SHAFT JUST LIKE ALWAYS, MAKE SURE YOU DON'T KNICK OR DAMAGE THE CAM BEARINGS. NOW WE'RE TRYING TO BE PRETTY QUICK WHEN INSTALLING THE NEW CAM SHAFT, BUT WE'RE ALSO BEING CAREFUL NOT TO CAUSE ANY DAMAGE. SUCCESS, ALRIGHT, VERY GOOD! ALRIGHT, NOW TO REPLACE THE TIMING CHAIN, WE HAD TO REMOVE THE OIL PUMP, AND TO DO THAT I HAD TO COME IN AND LOOSEN UP ALL THE PAN BOLTS SO WE COULD DROP THE PAN DOWN BY ABOUT THREE QUARTERS OF AN INCH SO WE COULD GET ACCESS TO THE OIL PUMP PICK UP TUBE RETAINING BOLT. WITH THAT DONE, NOW WE CAN FINALLY GET TO THE CHAIN AND SPROCKETS. AND WITH THE CHAIN OUT OF THE WAY WE CAN REMOVE THE CRANK SPROCKET, AND WE'RE EASING OFF THE END OF THE CRANK USING A TWO JAW PULLER. AGAIN REMOVING IT MANUALLY WITH A RATCHETING WRENCH. THIS DOESN'T TAKE A WHOLE LOT OF FORCE TO GET THIS OFF THERE. IT ALSO DOESN'T TAKE A WHOLE LOT OF FORCE TO

INSTALL THE NEW ONE. ONCE WE LINE UP THE KEY WAY WITH THE KEY WAY ON THE CRANK SHAFT, WE CAN LIGHTLY TAP ON THE SPROCKET USING A SOCKET AND A HAMMER. NOW WE'RE JUST LIGHTLY TAPPING THIS SPROCKET ON.

IT DOESN'T TAKE A WHOLE LOT OF FORCE. IF YOU NEED TO, YOU CAN PRESS IT ON. THEN YOU CAN HANG THE CHAIN ON THE SPROCKET AND JUST LET IT DANGLE INTO THE PAN FOR NOW WHILE YOU INSTALL THE CAM RETAINING PLATE. SOME BLUE LOCTITE ON THE THREADS OF THE BOLTS WILL MAKE SURE THEY DON'T GO ANYWHERE ONCE YOU'VE GOT THEM TORQUED DOWN. AND NOW IT'S TIME TO ADD THE TIMING CHAIN AND THE UPPER

CAM SPROCKET, AND MAKE SURE IT'S INSTALLED DOT TO DOT. YOU ALSO HAVE TO LINE UP THE DOWEL ON THE END OF THE CAM WITH THE DOWEL OPENING ON THE UPPER SPROCKET. THIS MAY TAKE A FEW TRIES BUT BE PATIENT AND YOU'LL GET IT. NOW WE'RE INSTALLING A NEW OIL PUMP SINCE WE'RE THIS FAR INTO THE ENGINE.

SO WE'RE GOING TO BE REPLACING THE ORING SEAL ON THE OIL PUMP PICK UP. THERE WILL BE A COUPLE OF OPTIONS IN WITH YOUR NEW OIL PUMP, JUST MAKE SURE YOU INSTALL THE CORRECT ORING. A LITTLE BIT OF CLEAN ENGINE OIL WILL HELP IT SEAT

INSIDE THE NEW OIL PUMP.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP.

WELL WE'VE GOT THE FRONT END OF OUR SIX LITER BUTTONED UP AND WE'VE GOT THE BALANCER INSTALLED USING AN LS BALANCER/INSTALLER STUD AND OUR MATCO HARMONIC BALANCER INSTALLER TOOL. WE'VE ALSO REPLACED OUR ONE TIME USE GM TORQUE TO YIELD BALANCER BOLT AND REPLACED IT WITH AN ARP HIGH

STRENGTH BALANCER BOLT, AND TORQUED IT TO SPEC, WHICH IS A WHOPPING 235 POUNDS. NOW THE NEXT THING WE'RE GONNA DO IS SWAP OUT THE STOCK VALVE SPRINGS, SEATS, RETAINERS, AND LOCKS WITH THE PIECES THAT WE PICKED UP FROM LUNATI. NOW THERE'S A FEW DIFFERENT WAYS TO DO THIS. ONE OF THE WAYS INVOLVES REMOVING THE CYLINDER HEAD COMPLETELY SO YOU HAVE ACCESS TO THE BOTTOM OF THE VALVE AND YOU CAN COMPRESS THE SPRING. BUT THE WAY WE'RE GONNA DO IT, WE CAN LEAVE THE HEADS BOLTED IN PLACE, SAVING YOU TIME AND MONEY THAT YOU'RE NOT SPENDING ON HEAD GASKETS. NOW THE FIRST THING YOU NEED TO DO IS ROLL THE ENGINE OVER AND GET IT TO APPROXIMATELY TOP DEAD CENTER ON THE CYLINDER YOU'RE WORKING ON. NOW THERE'S A FEW DIFFERENT WAYS TO DETERMINE TOP DEAD CENTER, OR PRETTY CLOSE. WHAT WE'RE USING IS A SMALL PIECE OF TIG WIRE DOWN TO THE SPARK PLUG HOLE, AND WE'RE ROLLING THE ENGINE OVER WITH ONE HAND WHILE USING THE OTHER TO SEE WHEN THE TIG WIRE STARTS HEADING BACK DOWN HILL. NOW THE NEXT THING WE'RE GONNA DO IS USE OUR MATCO TOOLS CYLINDER LEAK TEST KIT. NOT TO DO A LEAK DOWN TEST BUT TO USE IT TO PUT COMPRESSED AIR INTO THE CYLINDERS SO IT'LL HOLD THE

VALVES CLOSED SO WE CAN SWAP THE SPRINGS OUT. NOW THE ADAPTER THAT THREADS INTO THE SPARK PLUG HOLE IS SEALED WITH AN ORING.

SO YOU DON'T WANT TO OVER TIGHTEN IT. THEN YOU CAN PLUG IN YOUR SHOP AIR AND SEE WHAT KIND OF PRESSURE YOU HAVE INSIDE THE CYLINDER. AND NOW WE'VE GOT 90 PSI IN THE CYLINDER HOLD THE VALVE SHUT, WE CAN SWAP THOSE SPRINGS OUT. NOW REMOVING THE VALVE SPRINGS WITH THE CYLINDER HEAD STILL ON THE ENGINE DOES REQUIRE ANOTHER SPECIAL TOOL. WITH IT INSTALLED, IT'S PRETTY EASY TO USE, YOU CAN JUST TIGHTEN IT DOWN UNTIL YOU COLLAPSE THE VALVE SPRINGS OR COMPRESS THE VALVE SPRINGS ENOUGH TO REMOVE THE LOCKS. THEN YOU CAN FISH THEM OUT BY HAND OR USING A SMALL MAGNET. THEN TAKE THE TENSION OFF OF THE VALVE SPRINGS, REMOVE A

PORTION OF THE SPECIAL TOOL, AND YOU CAN GET THE RETAINERS AND THE SPRINGS OUT OF THE WAY. THEN YOU CAN REMOVE THE FACTORY VALVE SEAL AND SPRING SEAT ASSEMBLY. JUST BE CAREFUL NOT TO KNICK THE VALVE STEMS IN THE PROCESS. THEN WE CAN INSTALL THE NEW SPRING SEATS AND PREP THE VALVES FOR INSTALLATION OF THE NEW SEALS, WHICH MEANS INSTALLING THESE PROTECTIVE TUBES AND ADDING A LITTLE BIT OF ENGINE OIL TO THE TOP OF THE STEM. THAT'LL PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE SEAL WHILE IT'S BEING INSTALLED. THIS IS THE EXHAUST SIDE, THIS IS THE INTAKE SIDE. WE'RE USING A DEEP WELL SOCKET AND A LITTLE TINY HAMMER TO TAP THE SEALS INTO PLACE. WE CAN FOLLOW THAT WITH THE INSTALLATION OF THE NEW REPLACEMENT VALVE SPRINGS AND RETAINERS. WITH THE SPECIAL TOOL BACK IN PLACE, WE CAN PUT ENOUGH TENSION ON THE SPRINGS TO INSTALL THE NEW LOCKS. A LITTLE BIT OF GREASE IN THE LOCKED GROOVE WILL HELP KEEP THEM IN PLACE, DONE!

NOW AFTER ROLLING THE ENGINE OVER A FEW DEGREES TO GET THE PISTON AWAY FROM THE VALVES, I LIKE TO GIVE THEM A LIGHT TAP JUST TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING'S

SEATED CORRECTLY. I THINK WE'RE GOOD. ALRIGHT NOW IT'S JUST A MATTER OF DROPPING THESE PUSH RODS IN, THROWING OUR ROCKERS, VALVE COVERS BACK ON, GETTING THINGS BUTTONED UP, THIS CAM SWAP WILL BE DONE. NOW MOST LATE MODEL CARS COME WITH INDEPENDENT REAR SUSPENSIONS, BUT EVEN NEW TRUCKS COME WITH TRUSTY LEAF SPRINGS. THAT'S BECAUSE LEAF SPRINGS CAN TAKE HEAVY LOADS AND STILL DELIVER A REASONABLY SMOOTH RIDE. BUT LEAF PACKS HAVE LOTS OF CONTACT POINTS THAT CAN MAKE SQUEAKING, RUBBING NOISES AS THEY COMPRESS AND REBOUND.

A SHOT OF WD 40'S MULTI USE PRODUCT ON THE LEAVES AND ON

THE SPRING PIVOTS WILL ELIMINATE AND PREVENT ANY NOISES THEY'RE MAKING DUE TO DIRT OR DEBRIS. AND IT WILL ALSO KEEP THEM FROM RUSTING.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. NOW WITH ALL THE VALVE SPRINGS SWAPPED OUT WE'RE ABOUT DONE WITH THIS CAM SWAP. AND WHEN DOING INTERNAL ENGINE WORK LIKE THIS, YOU NEED TO BE CLEAN, AND YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE YOU FOLLOW ALL THE STEPS CAREFULLY, ESPECIALLY WHEN DEALING WITH CAM TIMING. NOW FOR A LITTLE EXTRA PIECE OF MIND, I LIKE TO LEAVE THE VALVE COVER OFF AND THE SPARK PLUGS OUT SO I CAN

TURN THE ENGINE OVER EASILY AND PUT MY EYES ON THE VALVETRAIN MAKING SURE THAT THE ROCKERS ARE WHERE THEY NEED TO BE, THE PUSH RODS ARE LINED UP, AND THERE'S NO INTERFERENCE PROBLEMS. THAT WAY WHEN YOU START IT UP FOR THE FIRST TIME, YOU

KNOW YOU'RE GOOD TO GO AND YOU WON'T HAVE ANY TROUBLE.

NOW ALONG WITH THE CAM SWAP WE'RE ALSO DOING AN OIL CHANGE.

SO RATHER THAN PUT THE VALVE COVERS BACK ON AND FILL THROUGH THE FILL CAP, WE'RE JUST DUMPING THE OIL DIRECTLY ONTO THE VALVETRAIN AND IT'S ONLY GOING TO HELP REDUCE FRICTION ON FIRST START UP. NOW SOME OF YOU GUYS MAY HAVE NOTICED WE SWAPPED OUT

THE OEM FUEL INJECTORS FOR THESE GREEN 42 POUND AN HOUR BOSCH INJECTORS THAT WE PICKED UP FROM SUMMIT RACING. BUT THEY WEREN'T A DIRECT SWAP IN. THE NEW INJECTORS A LITTLE BIT TALLER THAN THE OEM INJECTORS. SO WE HAD TO SPACE THE FUEL RAIL AWAY FROM THE INTAKE MANIFOLD, AND JUST USE SOME SPACERS AND LONGER BOLTS TO LOCK THINGS DOWN, BUT THAT'S NOT THE ONLY DIFFERENCE.

THE NEW INJECTORS ALSO USE A DIFFERENT CONNECTOR STYLE THAN THE BOSCH REPLACEMENTS. SO TO SOLVE THAT PROBLEM WE JUST WENT TO ACCEL AND PICKED UP SOME OF THEIR BOSCH PIG TAIL HARNESSES. ONCE WE GET THE ADAPTER SPLICED INTO OUR HARNESS, WE'LL BE JUST ABOUT READY TO FIRE THIS ENGINE UP ONCE WE PLUG IN OUR REFLASHED PCM. NOW TO GET THE PCM REFLASHED WE JUST SENT IT BACK TO THE GUYS AT 150 TUNES DOT COM, GAVE THEM INJECTOR PART NUMBER ALONG WITH A COPY OF THE CAM CARD SO THEY HAD ALL THE INFORMATION THEY NEEDED TO MAKE THE APPROPRIATE CHANGES. ONCE WE GET THIS TRUCK BACK TOGETHER, WELL THE NEXT TIME YOU SEE IT WE'LL BE PUTTING A FEW MILES ON IT.

(KEVIN)>> IF YOU'RE SERIOUS ABOUT DETAILING YOUR CAR AND YOU WANT TO PROTECT THE INVESTMENT OF LEATHER INTERIOR, WELL CHECK OUT MOTHERS LEATHER TECH PRODUCTS. THE FOAMING WASH IS AN AIR ENRICHED CLEANER THAT DEEP CLEANS WITHOUT STRIPPING MOISTURE FROM LEATHER AND VINYL SURFACES. THE MOISTURE INFUSING GEL CREAM OFFERS MULTILAYER HYDRATION, REPLACING NATURAL OILS LOST ON HEAT AND U/V EXPOSURE OVER TIME, AND KEEPS YOUR LEATHER FROM FADING, DRYING, OR CRACKING.

A LEATHER INTERIOR CAN LAST THE LIFETIME OF YOUR CAR IF IT'S MAINTAINED CORRECTLY.

AND MOTHERS GIVES YOU THE ABILITY TO DO JUST THAT. NOW IF YOU'VE GOT AN LS ENGINE, HERE'S SOMETHING FROM TRICK FLOW YOU MIGHT WANT TO LOOK AT. THESE STEAM LINE KITS ARE AVAILABLE IN BOTH RUBBER AND

BRAIDED STAINLESS LINES, ALL EQUIPPED WITH A/N FITTINGS. LS ENGINES HAVE STEAM PORTS AND STEAM LINES THAT REDIRECT VAPORIZED COOLANT BACK INTO THE ENGINE. AND THESE KITS GIVE YOU AN ALTERNATIVE TO THE

SOMEWHAT BLAND OE LINES. NOW SOME OF THE FACTORY COOLANT LINES ARE UNAVAILABLE OR OBSOLETE FROM THE GM DEALERS, AND THAT'S GONNA KEEP HAPPENING MORE AND MORE OVER TIME. SO TRICK FLOW GIVES YOU AN ALTERNATIVE TO DIGGING

AROUND IN A JUNKYARD FOR YOUR COOLANT BYPASS LINES, AND DOING IT WITH A LITTLE BIT OF STYLE TO BOOT. NOW THIS IS BRAND NEW FROM ACTRON, IT'S USCAN.

IT'S A DIAGNOSTIC SCAN TOOL THAT PLUGS INTO YOUR OBD TWO PORT ON YOUR '96 OR NEWER VEHICLE AND USES A

SMART PHONE AND AN APP TO COMMUNICATE WITH THE VEHICLE. IT'S PRETTY COOL, CHECK IT OUT. PLUG THE USCAN DEVICE INTO YOUR DIAGNOSTIC PORT AND CLICK ON THE DOWNLOADED APP, JUST LIKE YOU WOULD ANY OTHER APP ON YOUR SMART PHONE. WAIT FOR THE BLU TOOTH CONNECTION, AND THEN CLICK

ON THE PARAMETER THAT YOU WANT TO TAKE A LOOK AT. SINCE OUR VEHICLE DIDN'T SHOW ANY TROUBLE CODES, WE WENT STRAIGHT TO THE LIVE DATA, WHICH SHOWS YOU EXACTLY WHAT THE COMPUTER READS OFF THE VEHICLE SENSORS. ALONG WITH THE LIVE DATA IT ALSO READS AND CLEARS

TROUBLE CODES AS WELL AS USING SUGGESTED FIXES THAT ARE QUALIFIED BY ASE CERTIFIED MECHANICS. FOR MORE INFORMATION ON USCAN OR ANYTHING ELSE YOU'VE SEEN ON TODAY'S SHOW CHECK US OUT ON POWERBLOCK TV DOT COM.

THANKS FOR WATCHING, SEE YOU LATER!