Installing Widebody Flares on the Foxbody Cobra

(NARRATOR)>> TODAY ON DETROIT MUSCLE WE'LL GIVE "PROJECT SYDEWINDER" SOME FLARE. THEN "HARD CHARGER" GETS A LOT OF ATTENTION WITH SOME BUFFING HOW TO AND NEW VINYL TOP.

(TOMMY)>> HEY Y'ALL, WELCOME TO DETROIT MUSCLE. NOW OUR '69 DODGE CHARGER PROJECT THAT WE'VE BEEN WORKING ON FOR MONTHS FINALLY HAS A COAT OF BLACK, SHINY PAINT ON IT. NOW WE'RE NOT QUITE DONE WITH THIS THING YET. WE'VE STILL GOT A WHOLE LOT OF RUBBING THAT WE NEED TO DO ON IT, BUT THAT'LL BE A LITTLE LATER ON.

(MARC)>> SO YOU PROBABLY GUESSED IT. WE'RE GONNA JUMP ON OUR '81 COBRA PROJECT, "SYDEWINDER". NOW IF YOU REMEMBER FROM THE RENDERING ONE OF THE MOST STRIKING FEATURES OF THIS CAR IS THE BIG WIDE FRONT AND REAR, WHEELS AND TIRES, AS WELL AS THOSE FENDER FLARES. NOW I WANT TO GET MEASURED FOR THOSE WHEELS TODAY BUT I CAN'T DO THAT QUITE YET BECAUSE WE NEED TO GET THOSE FLARES INSTALLED FIRST. SO WE'RE GONNA DO THAT RIGHT NOW. THE FLARES WE DECIDED TO GO WITH ARE THESE CARBON FIBER ONES THAT WE GOT FROM CHICANE 23. NOW CHICANE 23 DOES A LOT OF ROAD RACING TYPE STUFF. SO THAT'S WHY THEY OFFER THESE, BECAUSE YOU CAN PUT THOSE WIDER WHEELS AND TIRES ON THERE. NOW THIS IS THE FIRST SET OF CARBON FIBER ONES ON THE MARKET. THEY HAVE BEEN MAKING THEM IN FIBERGLASS FOR A WHILE. THESE ARE A LITTLE MORE EXPENSIVE BUT THEY'RE SUPER LIGHTWEIGHT AND EASY TO WORK WITH. ALL RIGHT, WE'RE JUST GONNA TAKE A LOOK AT HOW THIS THING'S GONNA FIT. THERE'S SOME STUFF IN THE WAY HERE, LIKE THIS MOLDING AND THIS FENDER EXTENSION, AS WELL AS THE EMBLEM AND THE MOLDING BACK THERE. SO WE'LL GET THOSE OUT OF THE WAY AND GET THIS THING FIT. WE'LL USE A PLASTIC PRY TOOL TO REMOVE THE EMBLEM, AND THE SIDE MOLDINGS JUST POP RIGHT OFF. A 10 MILLIMETER SOCKET AND RATCHET ARE NEEDED TO REMOVE THE FENDER EXTENSION AND IT GETS SET ASIDE. [ drill spinning ]

(MARC)>> NOW WE'RE JUST GONNA GET THIS THING FIT. YOU CAN SEE IT FITS REALLY NICE HERE, AND AT THE FRONT AND THE BACK. I PUT SOME TAPE ON HERE TO HOLD IT IN PLACE JUST UNTIL WE GET IT MARKED WHERE WE WANT TO MAKE OUR CUTS. I'M NOT GONNA FIGURE OUT WHERE WE NEED TO MAKE THESE CUTS JUST YET BUT I DO WANT TO MAKE THE CUT AROUND THE ARC HERE FIRST. I'M GONNA GET SOME TAPE AND MAKE THAT MARK. I'M JUST RUNNING A STRIP OF THREE QUARTER INCH MASKING TAPE LONG THE OUTSIDE EDGE OF THE BODY LINE TO MARK WHERE OUR CUTS NEED TO BE MADE, AND THE BAND SAW CAN MAKE THE CUT. [ saw cutting metal ]

(MARC)>> NOW IF YOU NOTICE I DIDN'T CLEAN UP THE EDGES YET. I'M GONNA GO AHEAD AND DO THAT LATER ON ONCE WE MAKE OUR CUTS DOWN HERE ON THE BOTTOMS, BUT I DID LEAVE THE TAPE ON THERE BECAUSE I'M GONNA USE THAT AS A GUIDE WHERE I'M GONNA MAKE MY HOLES TO DRILL.

WE'LL DRILL EIGHTH INCH HOLES AND THEN GRAB OUR CLECO PLIERS AND SOME CLECOS TO HOLD OUR FENDER FLARE IN PLACE.

MORE HOLES AND MORE CLECOS WILL GET IT NICE AND FLUSH.

THEN WE CAN MOVE ON TO FITTING OUR MOLDINGS, WHICH WE'LL MARK AND CUT WITH THE BAND SAW.

ACTUALLY NOW THAT I SEE IT I DON'T THINK THAT LOOKS GOOD OVERLAPPING THE CARBON FIBER. SO I WANT TO CUT IT BACK, BUT I NEED TO GET THIS EDGE CLEANED UP FIRST. SO WHAT I'LL DO IS I'LL MARK WHERE I WANT TO HACK THIS OFF DOWN HERE AT THE BOTTOM. ABOUT HERE.

I'LL GO AHEAD AND GET THIS CUT. THEN I'LL TRIM THIS BACK TO FIT. I THINK IT'LL LOOK BETTER ON THAT EDGE. THE BAND SAW IS GOOD FOR MAKING THESE CUTS BECAUSE THE CARBON FIBER IS SO FLEXIBLE AND IT HELPS THAT THE SAW IS STATIONARY. [ saw cutting metal ]

(MARC)>> CLECOS GO BACK IN AND THE FINAL HOLES CAN BE DRILLED. [ drill spinning ]

(MARC)>> THEN WE CAN MARK AND CUT OUR MOLDING FOR THE FINAL TIME. I DON'T HATE IT. I THINK THAT'LL WORK. NOW THE FLARE CAN COME OFF AND WE CAN BEGIN THE PROCESS OF MARKING WHERE WE NEED TO CUT OUR FENDER, WHICH WE'LL DO WITH THREE QUARTER INCH TAPE. THE BODY SAW IS IDEAL FOR THIS JOB, EVEN THOUGH IT'S LOUD AND ANNOYING. [ saw cutting metal ]

(MARC)>> WE'LL GO BACK AND CLEAN UP THE EDGES, AND IT'S READY TO GO.

WE'LL USE A ROLL LOCK SCUFF PAD TO CLEAN UP THE EDGES OF THE FLARE, AND THEN WE'LL INSTALL IT WITH SOME SCREWS FOR NOW.

UM, SHE GOT HIPS! I LIKE IT!

(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT WE'LL FIGURE OUT THE BEST WAY TO SPRAY UNDERCOATING. THEN IT'S BUFFING CLEAR COAT.

(TOMMY)>> HEY GUYS, WE'VE GOT OUR CHARGER ALL PAINTED UP AND YOU MAY HAVE NOTICED THAT WE DIDN'T SPRAY ANY KIND OF RUBBERIZED UNDER COATING ON THE BELLY OF THAT THING. NOW WE'RE WANTING TO SPRAY SOME IN THE WHEEL WELLS TO PROTECT IT JUST A BIT, BUT THAT'S GONNA BE LATER ON. WELL I DRUG THIS OLD HOOD IN HERE SO THAT WE COULD DO A DEMONSTRATION JUST IN CASE YOU WERE INTERESTED IN APPLYING SOME ON YOUR RIDE. NOW THERE'S SEVERAL DIFFERENT COMPANIES OUT THERE THAT MAKE DIFFERENT TYPES OF RUBBERIZED UNDERCOATING, BUT IF YOU'RE TRYING TO ACHIEVE A CERTAIN TYPE OF TEXTURE THERE'S A FEW TECHNIQUES THAT YOU CAN USE TO GET WHAT YOU'RE LOOKING FOR. WE'RE GONNA USE THIS TAPE TO MARK OFF A FEW SECTIONS HERE ON THIS HOOD TO TRY OUT OUR TECHNIQUES.

WE'RE JUST GONNA MAKE A GRID SO THAT WE HAVE SEVERAL DIFFERENT SECTIONS TO WORK WITH.

THERE ARE A FEW THINGS OUT THERE THAT CAN INFLUENCE YOUR TEXTURE OR YOUR PATTERN. ONE OF THOSE IS THE VISCOSITY OF THE MATERIAL THAT YOU'RE SPRAYING. SOME MATERIAL WILL ALLOW YOU TO REDUCE IT DOWN TO GIVE YOU A SMOOTH TEXTURE, WHERE OURS IS PRETTY MUCH READY TO GO. ANOTHER THING IS THE PRESSURE THAT YOU SET YOUR GUN AT. OURS IS DESIGNED TO BE SPRAYED AT 40 TO 70 PSI. NOW WHAT I'M PLANNING TO DO IS SPRAY IT AT 40, 55, AND 70 AND SEE WHICH ONE WORKS THE BEST FOR OUR APPLICATION. WE'LL JUST SHAKE THIS STUFF REALLY GOOD AND MAKE SURE TO WEAR YOUR RUBBER FINGERS. WHAT'S COOL ABOUT THIS STUFF IS THAT THE GUN ATTACHES DIRECTLY TO THE BOTTLE.

A LITTLE BIT OF DIALING THE GUN IN TO 40 PSI AND WE CAN START SPRAYING. ALL WE'RE LOOKING FOR HERE IS ABOUT 50 PERCENT OVERLAP, WHICH WILL CARRY OVER TO THE OTHER PANELS AS WELL. ON OUR SECOND PANEL WE'RE GONNA CRANK IT UP TO 55 POUNDS AND SEE WHAT THAT DOES. [ spray gun hissing ]

(TOMMY)>> NOW YOU CAN SEE A SLIGHT DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE TWO. OUR FIRST ONE WAS AT 40. THE SECOND ONE WAS AT 55. IF YOU NOTICE, WHENEVER I WAS SPRAYING THAT ONE THE PATTERN WAS REAL SMALL, AND NOW THAT YOU LOOK AT IT IT'S ACTUALLY GOT A FINER GRAIN TO IT AND IT'S A LITTLE MORE COARSE, WHERE HERE THE PATTERN WAS A LOT WIDER AND IT ACTUALLY TURNED OUT A LITTLE BIT SMOOTHER. NOW WE'LL CRANK IT ALL THE WAY UP TO 70 PSI, WHICH I THINK WILL CAUSE AN EVEN WIDER SPRAY PATTERN, AND SURE ENOUGH IT DOES.

WITH OUR THIRD ONE AND THE PRESSURE CRANKED UP, IT ADDED SOME RIPPLES AND WAVES IF YOU WILL. NOW WHENEVER WE'RE GONNA BE SPRAYING ON OUR CAR WE'RE PROBABLY GONNA USE A COMBINATION OF A COUPLE OF THEM, LIKE THIS SECOND STEP AND THEN THE THIRD STEP. DOING IT THAT WAY WILL GET A NICE, EVEN COVERAGE, AND THEN WE'LL BE ABLE TO COME BACK AND ADD IN THEM RIPPLES BECAUSE THE MOPARS, MAN THEM THINGS ARE SLATHERED IN THAT GOOP AND THAT WILL WORK JUST RIGHT FOR US.

(MARC)>> WHEN IT COMES TO TOOLS IN YOUR BOX YOU'VE GOT SEVERAL DIFFERENT FAMILIES OF TOOLS. YOU'VE GOT TOOLS THAT TURN THINGS, LIKE SOCKETS, WRENCHES, AND PLIERS, AND YOU'VE GOT TOOLS THAT YOU HIT THINGS WITH, LIKE HAMMERS, CHISELS, AND PUNCHES. THEN YOU'VE GOT TOOLS THAT YOU CUT THINGS WITH, LIKE WHAT WE'RE GONNA TALK ABOUT TODAY, SHEARS. SHEARS ARE A TOOL THAT CUTS SOMETHING BY THE TWO BLADES PASSING EACH OTHER. JUST LIKE THIS PAIR OF REGULAR OLE SCISSORS. NOW THERE ARE A BUNCH OF DIFFERENT TYPES OF SHEARS AND WE HAVE A LARGE ASSORTMENT OF THOSE HERE ON THE TABLE. NOW DEPENDING ON WHAT THEY CUT AND HOW THEY CUT IT, WELL THAT DETERMINES HOW THEY'RE MADE. THESE MAY LOOK LIKE REGULAR SCISSORS BUT THEY'RE ACTUALLY NOT. THESE ARE FABRIC SHEARS AND IF YOU'RE DOING UPHOLSTERY WORK AND YOU WANT TO CUT FABRIC FOR SEATS OR VINYL THAT'S WHAT THESE ARE GOOD FOR. THEY'RE A LOT MORE HEAVY DUTY THAN REGULAR SCISSORS AND A LOT MORE EXPENSIVE, AND THIS LITTLE PAIR RIGHT HERE. THESE ARE JUST LITTLE NIPPERS TO CUT THREAD. SPEAKING OF UPHOLSTERY, THIS PAIR HERE IS ACTUALLY MADE FOR CUTTING LEATHER. THESE TWO HERE, THESE ARE MADE FOR CUTTING CABLES, SPECIFICALLY BATTERY CABLES. ALL OF THAT STUFF'S GREAT BUT WHAT WE LIKE CUTTING HERE IN THIS SHOP IS SHEET METAL, AND IF YOU WANT TO CUT SOME SHEET METAL IN A HURRY YOU WANT TO USE THE POWER SHEAR. YOU JUST PUT IT HERE IN BETWEEN THE JAWS, PULL THE TRIGGER, AND IT'S GONNA CUT A LOT OF METAL REAL QUICK. SOMETIMES THIS IS KNOWN AS A NIBBLER. OF COURSE YOU NEED SOME 110 POWER TO GET IT DONE, AND IT'LL DO IT IN A HURRY. NOW IF YOU WANT TO DO SOMETHING A LITTLE MORE INTRICATE THAN THAT YOU NEED YOUR TIN SNIPS. MOST OF YOU AT HOME HAVE EITHER USED OR AT LEAST SEEN A PAIR OF THE YELLOW HANDLED TIN SNIPS. THERE ARE ACTUALLY MADE TO CUT STRAIGHT CUTS. IF YOU TRY TO MAKE A TURN WITH THEM, WELL IT'S REALLY HARD TO DO UNLESS YOU'RE GONNA MAKE A REALLY LONG SWEEPING TURN. SO IF YOU NEED TO MAKE A TURN YOU PROBABLY WANT TO USE A PAIR OF THESE. THE GREEN HANDLE WILL ACTUALLY CUT TO THE RIGHT, AND THE RED HANDLES CUT TO THE LEFT. NOW IF YOU LOOK AT THESE TWO THAT CUT TO THE RIGHT YOU'LL SEE THE DIFFERENCE HERE IS THAT THE PAIR ON MY RIGHT IS ACTUALLY ANGLED MORE SO YOU CAN REALLY KEEP YOUR HANDS AWAY FROM THE METAL THAT YOU'RE CUTTING. WELL QUITE POSSIBLY THE COOLEST TOOL WE HAVE IN THIS ENTIRE SHOP, AND MY FAVORITE OF ALL THE SHEARS, IS THIS THING RIGHT HERE. NOW SOMETIMES WE REFER TO THIS AS SIMPLY THE SHEAR. THIS IS ACTUALLY CALLED A STOMP SHEAR, AND THE BLADE, YOU CAN'T SEE IT BECAUSE IT'S TUCKED IN BEHIND HERE, AND THAT'S TO KEEP YOU FROM GETTING YOUR FINGERS OR YOUR HANDS IN THERE BECAUSE THIS THING WILL ACTUALLY CUT YOUR FINGERS OFF. IT'S CALLED A STOMP SHEAR BECAUSE THAT'S THE WAY YOU OPERATE IT. YOU JUST STOMP ON THIS PEDAL RIGHT HERE. SO MAKE SURE YOU PUT YOUR PIECE OF SHEET METAL IN HERE. IT'S EVEN GOT A STRAIGHT EDGE HERE. MAKE SURE YOU GET IT STRAIGHT, PUT IT WHERE IT NEEDS TO BE, AND THEN SIMPLY STOMP IT OFF.

(NARRATOR)>> AFTER THE BREAK WE'LL BUST OUT THE BUFFERS AND GET THE CHARGER'S CLEAR COAT SMOOTH AS GLASS.

(MARC)>> HEY FOLKS, WELCOME BACK. AS YOU KNOW, WE RECENTLY GOT THE PAINT SPRAYED ON OUR '69 DODGE CHARGER BUT GETTING THAT BASE AND THAT FINAL COAT OF CLEAR SPRAYED IS NOT THE LAST STEP OF THE PROCESS.

(TOMMY)>> SO YOU GUYS KNOW WHAT THAT MEANS. IT'S TIME FOR US TO GIVE THAT CHARGER JUST A LITTLE BIT MORE LOVE. NOW IT LOOKS PRETTY GOOD RIGHT NOW, BUT THIS NEXT STEP IS GONNA TAKE IT TO A HOLE OTHER LEVEL, AND WE BROUGHT IN SOME HELP. WE'VE GOT ROB WITH SONAX, AND HE'S GONNA HELP US SHINE THIS THING UP. NOW YOU'VE GOT A BUNCH OF GOODIES HERE. WHAT'D YOU BRING US?

(ROB)>> WE DID A BRING AN ASSORTMENT OF OUR PRODUCTS FROM SONAX TODAY. TO REALLY BRING OUT THE SHINE WE'RE GONNA CONCENTRATE ON THE PROFESSIONAL LINE, OUR POLISHES AND COMPOUNDS. ONCE WE'VE SANDED TO REMOVE THE ORANGE PEEL THE NEXT STEP WILL TO GO TO OUR CUT MAX, WHICH IS OUR CUTTING COMPOUND, AND THIS IS THE FIRST STEP TO BRINGING BACK THE LUSTER AND THE GLOSS OF THE PAINT. THEN WE'LL GO TO ONE OF OUR TWO POLISHES. PERFECT FINISH IS DESIGNED SPECIFICALLY TO BE USED WITH A ROTARY MACHINE, AND OUR EX-0406 IS DESIGNED TO BE USED WITH A DUAL ACTION MACHINE.

(TOMMY)>> SO WHAT'S THE BENEFIT TO YOUR COMPOUNDS?

(ROB)>> WELL ONE OF THE KEY BENEFITS IS IT'S WATER BASED, WHICH BASICALLY MEANS THERE'S A LONG WORKING WINDOW AND THERE'S LITERALLY NO DUSTING, WHICH HELPS IN THE CLEAN UP PROCESS.

(TOMMY)>> WELL I GUESS BEFORE WE CAN GET TO SHINNING IT UP WE NEED TO SAND IT. LET ME GRAB SOME BUCKETS AND WE CAN GET STARTED.

(ROB)>> LET'S DO IT!

(TOMMY)>> WE'RE JUST USING SOME GOOD OLE HIGH QUALITY HTWOZERO AND SOME SAND PAPER. THE IDEA HERE IS TO CUT THE GRAIN OUT OF THIS THING SO THAT WE HAVE A NICE, TRUE, FLAT SURFACE THAT WE CAN POLISH TO A HIGH SHINE.

WELL WE'VE GOT OUR PANEL ALL SANDED DOWN NICE AND FLAT, AND WE FINISHED IT OFF WITH SOME 1,000 GRIT PAPER. NOW IT'S TIME TO MAKE IT SHINNY AGAIN.

(ROB)>> YEAH WE'LL START OUT WITH THE CUT MAX, WHICH IS OUR CUTTING COMPOUND, ALONG WITH A WOOL PAD AND A ROTARY MACHINE, AND REALLY IT'S THE FIRST STEP IN BRINGING BACK THE GLASS OF THE PAINT.

(TOMMY)>> WHEN YOU'RE STARTING WITH A FRESH OR DRY BUFFING PAD YOU NEED TO LOAD IT FIRST. YOU JUST SQUIRT ON SOME OF THE MATERIAL AND RUB IT IN. THEN YOU CAN ADD A FEW DOLLOPS TO GIVE YOU SOME COMPOUND TO WORK WITH.

(ROB)>> THE REAL BEAUTY OF THIS PRODUCT IS THAT IT CONTAINS DIMINISHING ABRASIVES, MEANING THAT THE ABRASIVES IN THE COMPOUND GRADUALLY BREAK DOWN INTO A SMALLER SIZE WHILE RETAINING THEIR CUTTING ABILITY. THIS MAKES BUFFING SUPER EASY BECAUSE IT ELIMINATES SEVERAL STEPS. YOU DON'T HAVE TO SWITCH PADS AND COMPOUNDS TO ACHIEVE THE DESIRED EFFECT. THE PURPOSE OF THE CUT MAX IS TO REMOVE ANY MAJOR IMPERFECTIONS, SUCH AS SCRATCHES, WHICH IT DOES ON THE FRONT END. YOU WANT TO WORK IN REALLY SMALL AREAS FOR IDEAL RESULTS. AS THE ABRASIVE BREAKS DOWN IT TAKES ON A POLISHING QUALITY AND YOU'LL START TO SEE THE GLOSS APPEAR IN THE CLEAR COAT.

(TOMMY)>> MAN THAT LOOKS GOOD. SO WHAT'S THE NEXT STEP?

(ROB)>> WELL WE'RE GONNA SWITCH NOW TO THE POLISHING STAGE. IN THIS CASE I'M GONNA SWITCH TO A D/A MACHINE AND THE EX-0406.

(TOMMY)>> SO HOW DOES THAT COMPOUND REALLY WORK?

(ROB)>> WELL IT'LL PICK UP WHERE THE CUT MAX LEFT OFF WITH THE DIMINISHING ABRASIVES. IT'LL CONTINUE TO REMOVE THE MINOR IMPERFECTIONS THAT ARE STILL IN THE PAINT BUT IT'LL LEAVE A REALLY, REALLY NICE POLISH AT THE END.

(TOMMY)>> SO YOU'RE TELLING ME IT'S JUST THESE TWO COMPOUNDS AND THESE TWO PADS. IT AIN'T FOUR OR FIVE OTHER STEPS?

(ROB)>> THAT'S THE BEAUTY OF SONAX. THE TECHNOLOGY BEHIND THESE PRODUCTS IS GONNA HELP ELIMINATE AT LEAST ONE, MAYBE TWO STEPS.

(TOMMY)>> WELL I'M GONNA LET YOU GET AT IT. SINCE THIS PAD IS NEW WE'VE GOT TO LOAD IT UP AS WELL.

(ROB)>> THE REASON I'VE SWITCHED TO A DUAL ACTION POLISHER IS BECAUSE I THINK IT MAKES THINGS JUST A LITTLE EASIER. IT MIGHT BE A BETTER CHOICE FOR A DIY GUY BECAUSE A D/A IS MUCH MORE FORGIVING WITH A LOWER LEARNING CURVE. YOU'LL STILL WANT TO WORK IN A SMALL AREA, AND SINCE THE POLISH IS WATER BASED CLEAN UP IS SUPER EASY.

(TOMMY)>> WE'RE GONNA KEEP WORKING THIS QUARTER PANEL ONE SMALL SECTION AT A TIME UNTIL IT'S DONE.

DAG GUM, THAT REFLECTION LOOKS REALLY NICE!

(ROB)>> YEAH IT DOES. IT LOOKS REALLY GOOD.

(TOMMY)>> THAT COMPOUND YOU BROUGHT US REALLY DOES THE JOB.

(ROB)>> THE REST IS UP TO YOU.

(NARRATOR)>> STILL AHEAD, INSTALLING A VINYL TOP.

(MARC)>> HEY FOLKS, WELCOME BACK. WE'RE PLUGGING AWAY ON OUR '69 DODGE CHARGER HERE. WE GOT THE QUARTER PANELS ALL BUFFED OUT REAL NICE, AND DURING THE BREAK WE GOT HER BACK ON HER FEET. NOW WE'RE GETTING READY TO START INSTALLING THIS VINYL TOP.

(TOMMY)>> WE GOT OURS FROM CLASSIC INDUSTRIES, AND I'VE HEARD THESE THINGS CAN BE A LITTLE DIFFICULT TO INSTALL. SO I BROUGHT IN SOME HELP. YOU GUYS MEET MARK COATES. HE'S WITH ABM RESTORATIONS.

(MARK)>> YEAH TOMMY, THESE THINGS CAN BE A LITTLE BIT OF A PAIN SOMETIMES. WE'LL SEE IF WE CAN GET THIS ONE ON RIGHT.

(TOMMY)>> TO BRING Y'ALL UP TO SPEED ON MARK'S TALENTS, HE DOES SOME SERIOUS CONCOURSE RESTORATIONS, SPECIALIZING IN MOPARS AND SPRINKLES IN A HOT ROD EVERY NOW AND THEN, LIKE THIS BEAUTIFUL SHOE BOX CHEVY. SO WHAT'S THIS FIRST STEP YOU'RE DOING?

(MARK)>> WE'RE GONNA MARK A LOCATION OF THE TRIM CLIP HOLES SO WE CAN FIND THEM AFTER THE TOP IS INSTALLED.

(TOMMY)>> WHAT'S NEXT AFTER THAT?

(MARK)>> WE'RE GONNA FIND CENTER OF THE TOP AND CENTER OF THE CAR.

(TOMMY)>> AFTER FINISHING UP MARKING THOSE HOLES WE'LL USE A SEAMSTRESS TAPE...

(MARK)>> 52 INCHES.

(TOMMY)>> ...TO FIND THE MIDDLE OF THE CAR. ON THE BACK THIS CAR ACTUALLY HAS A NOTCH THAT TELLS YOU WHERE THE CENTER IS. WE'VE GOT TO FIND THE CENTER OF THE TOP AND MARK'S GOT A SIMPLE WAY TO DO IT.

(MARK)>> WE'RE GONNA FOLD THIS OVER AND LINE UP THE SEAMS, CLAMP THEM IN PLACE, AND THAT MAKES A REAL SIMPLE WAY OF FINDING CENTER.

(TOMMY)>> MARK'S USING HIS STEADY HAND AND A BLUE MARKER TO DRAW THE CENTER LINE ON THE TOP. THEN WE'LL USE A STRING TO PULL A LINE BETWEEN THE TWO MARKS WE MADE AND DRAW ALONG IT WITH A SILVER MARKER.

THEN WE SIMPLY LINE UP THE TWO CENTER LINES AND LAY THE TOP OUT FLAT WITH THE HELP OF SOME MAGNETS. NOW IT'S TIME TO GLUE IT DOWN. WE'RE JUST APPLYING A STRIP OF GLUE ALONG THE FRONT PORTION OF THE ROOF TO GET US STARTED. THIS IS A SPECIAL VINYL TOP ADHESIVE, WHICH NEEDS TO BE APPLIED ON BOTH SURFACES, THE ROOF AND THE VINYL TOP. WITH BOTH OF THE CENTER LINES LINED UP AND STUCK TOGETHER WE CAN FLIP THE REST OF THE TOP OVER AND APPLY MORE ADHESIVE ON BOTH OF OUR LINES.

AND WITH SOME HELP THE TOP CAN BE LAID INTO PLACE.

WITH THAT DONE, WE'RE GOING TO MASK OFF THE CAR CAUSE WE'RE GETTING READY TO SPRAY SOME STICKY STUFF TO SPEED UP THE PROCESS.

ONCE WE SPRAY BOTH SURFACES WITH THIS STUFF AND LET IT DRY, WE CAN START LAYING THE TOP INTO PLACE FOR THE FINAL TIME. THIS TECHNIQUE ALLOWS YOU TO WORK FROM THE INSIDE OUT, AND WE'RE NOT STRETCHING IT. JUST GETTING IT TO LAY FLAT.

NOW IT'S TIME TO GO BACK AND GLUE THE EDGES, WORK THEM TIGHT INTO THE DRIP RAIL, AND TRIM OFF THE EXCESS.

WELL MARK, THAT THING TURNED OUT PRETTY NICE, AND I'LL TELL YOU IT WASN'T NEARLY AS BAD AS I WAS ANTICIPATING, BUT IT PROBABLY HAD SOMETHING TO DO WITH YOU DOING MOST OF THE WORK.

(MARK)>> COULD HAVE.

(TOMMY)>> WELL WE MAY END UP CALLING YOU AGAIN TO COME BACK IF YOU'RE GAME?

(MARK)>> SOUNDS LIKE FUN.

(TOMMY)>> WELL LET'S CALL IT A DAY FOR NOW.

(MARK)>> ALRIGHTY.

(MARC)>> IF YOU HAVE A CTHREE CORVETTE, THEN YOU ALREADY KNOW THAT UPGRADING TO AN AFTERMARKET FIVE OR SIX SPEED GEAR BOX IS ALMOST IMPOSSIBLE UNTIL NOW. AMERICAN POWERTRAIN HAS JUST INTRODUCED ITS PRO FIT KITS FOR '68 TO '82 CORVETTES. THIS KIT FITS VINTAGE VETTES LIKE AN ORIGINAL GM TRANSMISSION WITH THE FACTORY SHIFT POSITION AND TUNNEL FIT. IT FEATURES A TREMEC SIX SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION AND ALL THE PARTS YOU NEED TO GET IT INSTALLED, INCLUDING A CUSTOM DESIGNED CORVETTE CROSS MEMBER. FOR MORE INFORMATION GO TO THEIR WEBSITE, AMERICAN POWERTRAIN DOT COM, AND TO SEE MORE TECH LIKE YOU SAW TODAY ON THE SHOW GO TO OUR WEBSITE, POWERNATION TV DOT COM.