Hard Charger: Stop and Turn

(NARRATOR)>> TODAY ON DETROIT MUSCLE LEARN HOW TO REBUILD THE FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING TO FACTORY FINISH ON AN ICONIC '69 DODGE CHARGER, AND WHILE WE'RE AT IT WE'LL ALSO UPGRADE OUR OLD SCHOOL DRUM BRAKES TO SOME DISCS SO THAT BIG MOPAR CAN STOP A LITTLE BETTER.

(MARC)>> HEY WELCOME TO DETROIT MUSCLE. WE'RE WORKING ON A '69 DODGE CHARGER PROJECT THAT WE GOT A WHILE BACK, AND TO SAY WE'RE EXCITED ABOUT IT, WELL THAT WOULD BE AN UNDERSTATEMENT.

(TOMMY)>> WELL WE'VE BEEN MAKING SOME PRETTY GOOD PROGRESS. WE HUNG SOME SHEET METAL ON THE SIDE OF IT, REBUILT THE TRANSMISSION ALONG WITH THE ENGINE.

(MARC)>> AND IT'S TIME TO DO SOME OTHER THINGS MECHANICAL WHILE WE'VE GOT THAT STUFF OUT OF THE WAY, AND WE'VE GOT SOME ROOM TO WORK. WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO TODAY IS TEAR INTO THE FRONT SUSPENSION AND STEERING COMPONENTS, AND REPLACE THEM WITH SOME NEW STUFF, AND THAT'S GONNA GIVE OUR MOPAR A LOT BETTER HANDLING AND DRIVABILITY.

(TOMMY)>> WHILE MARC'S BUSY HAMMERING ON THAT OLD MOPAR I'M GONNA GET TO SCRATCHING ON THIS OLD CHEVELLE. NOW THIS IS GONNA TAKE, I GUESS YOU COULD SAY, SEVERAL MINUTES BECAUSE THIS BODY WORK STUFF, WELL IT'S KIND OF A LABOR OF LOVE, AND JUST SO YOU GUYS KNOW, THE PEOPLE THAT YOU SEE ON THE POWERNATION, WELL THOSE ARE THE GUYS THAT GET TO WORK ON THESE THINGS. THERE AREN'T A SECOND OR THIRD SHIFT HERE. IT'S JUST US. THIS AIN'T GONNA BE FUN.

(NARRATOR)>> MEANWHILE BACK AT THE SHOP.

(MARC)>> WITH THE WHEEL AND TIRE OUT OF THE WAY WE'LL START DISASSEMBLY BY REMOVING THE DUST CAP. THE COTTER PIN COMES OUT NEXT, FOLLOWED BY THE HUB NUT RETAINER AND THE NUT.

THEN THE OLD DRUMS AND BEARINGS CAN ALL SLIDE OFF AT ONCE. WE CAN GO AHEAD AND DISCONNECT THE BRAKE HOSE FROM THE HARD LINE AND UNCLIP IT FROM THE BRACKET. THIS CLAMP WILL HELP PREVENT LOSING A BUNCH OF BRAKE FLUID AND MAKING A MESS. THE FOUR BOLTS HOLDING THE BRAKE ASSEMBLY TO THE SPINDLE CAN BE LOOSENED AND THE BRAKES CAN BE REMOVED AS ONE UNIT. ALL RIGHT GUYS, THIS IS A REALLY COOL PLACE TO STOP HERE AND CHECK THIS OUT. THE BALL JOINT IS ACTUALLY PART OF THIS STEERING ARM HERE THAT BOLTS TO THE SPINDLE AND ALSO TO THE TIE ROD END. USUALLY THE BALL JOINT'S PART OF THE CONTROL ARM OR ATTACHES TO THE CONTROL ARM IN SOME WAY, BUT THIS ONE'S ACTUALLY PART OF THE STEERING ARM. IT'S KIND OF UNIQUE. THEY MAY HAVE DONE THAT BECAUSE THE CONTROL ARM'S STAMPED AND IT WAS EASIER TO PUT THE EYE LID ON THERE, OR MAYBE IT WAS JUST TWO CENTS LESS PER CAR. EITHER WAY ALL THIS OLD STUFF HAS TO GO. WE'LL GET THE TIE ROD LOOSE FROM THE STEERING ARM AND THAT FUNKY LOWER BALL JOINT CAN HIT THE SCRAP BIN. THE SWAY BAR LINKS ARE NEXT, AND THOUGH THESE DON'T LOOK TOO BAD WE'RE GONNA GO AHEAD AND REPLACE THEM ANYWAY. THIS CHARGER, LIKE ALL CHRYSLER BBODIES, IS EQUIPPED WITH A TORSION BAR STYLE FRONT SUSPENSION. THE TENSION ON THE TORSION BAR MUST BE REMOVED BY LOOSENING THIS BOLT UNDER THE LOWER CONTROL ARM. THE LOWER SHOCK BOLT CAN BE LOOSENED AND REMOVED. A ROLL PIN ACTS AS A KEEPER FOR THE NUT THAT MOUNTS THE RADIUS ARM TO THE KMEMBER. ONCE IT'S OUT OF THE WAY, THE NUT CAN COME OFF AS WELL.

THE CONTROL ARM NUT IS NEXT. THIS RETAINER CAN GO AWAY AND THE TORSION BAR CAN BE DRIVEN BACK...

...ALONG WITH THE LOWER CONTROL ARM.

THE CONTROL ARM POPS OFF AND THE TORSION BAR CAN BE REMOVED. OKAY WE'VE GOT THE OTHER SIDE TORN DOWN AS WELL AND WE'VE GOT TO GET THE REST OF THESE STEERING COMPONENTS OUT OF THE WAY, BUT FIRST WE'RE GONNA REMOVE THIS SWAY BAR. [ drill spinning ]

(MARC)>> THIS BRACE THAT GOES BETWEEN THE KMEMBER AND THE RADIATOR SUPPORT IS IN THE WAY. SO IT NEEDS TO GO. THE SWAY BAR MOUNTS ARE NEXT AND JUST ZIP RIGHT OUT WITH A LITTLE HELP FROM GRAVITY. THESE STEERING COMPONENTS ARE ALL GREASY AND WORN OUT. SO WE'RE JUST GONNA ZIP'EM ALL OFF, AND TOSS THEM TO THE SIDE.

THE KMEMBER IS NEXT, AND WITH THE FOUR BOLTS OUT CAN BE SEPARATED FROM THE CAR.

WE'RE GONNA DO A LITTLE BIT OF CLEANING ON THIS KMEMBER. IT'S TOO BIG FOR OUR PARTS WASHER AND WAY TO GREASY TO GO STRAIGHT INTO THE BLAST CABINET. WE WANT TO MAKE SURE WE GET ALL THE SURFACES NICE AND CLEAN, INCLUDING INSIDE ALL THE HOLES. IT'S A LITTLE BIT OF A DIRTY JOB BUT NOW'S THE TIME TO DO IT WHILE IT'S OUT OF THE CAR.

THE SHOCK CAN GO AWAY NEXT, AND WITH IT OUT OF THE WAY WE CAN WORK ON GETTING THESE UPPER CONTROL ARMS OUT. [ drill spinning ]

(MARC)>> WITH ALL THE HARDWARE GONE, THE AARMS CAN BE PRIED OUT AND SET ASIDE. AFTER SOME TIME IN THE BLAST CABINET OUR KMEMBER LOOKS A WHOLE LOT BETTER. WE'RE USING SOME VHT HIGH TEMP ROLL BAR AND CHASSIS PAINT TO PROTECT IT FROM THE ELEMENTS AND KEEP IT FROM RUSTING. A FEW COATS OF THIS STUFF AND THIS THING IS GONNA LOOK BRAND NEW.

(NARRATOR)>> STILL AHEAD WE'VE GOT SOME BUSHINGS THAT HAVE TO BE REPLACED BUT IT COULD BE A BIT OF A CHALLENGE. NO WORRIES, WE'LL SHOW YOU TWO WAYS TO GET THE JOB DONE.

(TOMMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK. NOW I SURE HOPE MARC IS MAKING A WHOLE LOT BETTER PROGRESS THAN I AM. I'M STILL SCRATCHING ON THIS THING. Y'ALL GO CHECK HIM OUT.

(NARRATOR)>> MEANWHILE BACK AT THE SHOP.

(MARC)>> WHILE YOU WERE GONE I WENT AHEAD AND GOT THIS FRESHLY PAINTED KMEMBER BOLTED BACK UP INTO THE CAR AND CLEANED UP THE REST OF OUR SUSPENSION MOUNTING POINTS, AND PUT A FRESH COAT OF PAINT ON THOSE AS WELL. WE'RE READY TO REASSEMBLE, BUT WE'RE NOT JUST GONNA THROW ALL THAT OLD STUFF BACK ON. WE'VE GOT SOMETHING BETTER. WHEN IT COMES TO FRONT STEERING AND SUSPENSION COMPONENTS THERE'S A LOT OF MOVING PARTS, AND THEREFORE THERE ARE A LOT OF WEAR ITEMS. SO WE WENT TO ROCK AUTO DOT COM FOR ALL NEW STUFF. WE GOT A PAIR OF THOSE FUNKY LOWER BALL JOINT STEERING ARMS, UPPER BALL JOINTS, INNER AND OUTER TIE ROD ENDS, AS WELL AS A FULL SET OF PRESS IN CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS. WE ALSO GOT A PAIR OF SHOCKS, SWAY BAR BUSHINGS AND END LINKS, TIE ROD ADJUSTORS, AND AN IDLER ARM. HERE'S SOMETHING REALLY COOL. THIS IS AN OPTION FOR YOUR UPPER CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS. THESE ARE OFFSET BUSHINGS. YOU CAN SEE THE HOLE IS OFFSET COMPARED TO LIKE A STOCK BUSHING HERE. THIS IS ALLOWING YOU TO ADD IN SOME MORE ADJUSTMENT ON CAMBER AND CASTOR IF YOU'RE DOING HIGH PERFORMANCE DRIVING, OR RACING, OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT, BUT WE DON'T NEED THAT FOR OUR CAR. SO WE'RE JUST GONNA GO WITH THESE STOCK BUSHINGS. THE TRUSTY OLE PRESS IS NEEDED TO GET THOSE OLD CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS OUT OF THE WAY, AND THAT GOES FOR BOTH THE UPPER AND LOWER ARMS.

SOME MORE TIME WITH THE BLASTER WILL GET THE PARTS THAT WE'RE REUSING LOOKING GOOD AGAIN, AND THEN THEY GET A FEW COATS OF THAT CHASSIS PAINT WELL.

WITH ALL THE PAINT DRY WE CAN THEN PRESS THOSE NEW BUSHINGS INTO THE CONTROL ARMS.

THE UPPER BALL JOINTS ARE NEXT, AND JUST LIKE THE STOCK ONES DID, THESE JUST SCREW RIGHT IN. THE BOOT FINISHES IT OFF, AND OUR UPPER ARM CAN GO IN. A LITTLE PERSUASION MAY BE NEEDED, AND WE'LL JUST REUSE THE HARDWARE. A BIT OF GREASE NEEDS TO GO INTO THE HOLE IN THE KMEMBER WHERE THE LOWER CONTROL ARM PIVOT SHAFT WILL RIDE.

[ drill spinning ]

(MARC)>> THE TORSION BAR CAN SLIDE BACK INTO THE CONTROL ARM AND BE DRIVEN HOME WITH A HAMMER. THE RADIUS ARM CAN THEN BE TIGHTENED DOWN ONTO THE KMEMBER. [ drill spinning ]

(MARC)>> THE SHOCK CAN GO NEXT, FOLLOWED BY THE LOWER BALL JOINT... [ drill spinning ]

(MARC)>> ...AND A COTTER PIN. WELL IT'S TIME TO INSTALL OUR SPINDLE BUT WE'RE GONNA STOP RIGHT HERE BECAUSE WE'RE ACTUALLY GONNA USE THIS NEW SPINDLE THAT COMES WITH THIS DISC BRAKE KIT THAT WE GOT FROM CLASSIC INDUSTRIES. IT LOOKS BETTER, IT'S GONNA STOP BETTER, AND BE SAFER FOR OUR BBODY. THIS IS A COMPLETE KIT. SO NOT ONLY DOES IT COME WITH EVERYTHING FROM THE SPINDLE ALL THE WAY OUT TO THE DUST CAP, BUT IT ALSO COMES WITH THE MOST IMPORTANT THING WHEN YOU'RE SWITCHING OVER TO A DISC BRAKE KIT, AND THAT IS THE CORRECT MASTER AND PROPORTIONING VALVE, AND SINCE THIS IS POWER BRAKES IT COMES WITH A BOOSTER AS WELL. THIS SPINDLE JUST BOLTS TO THE LOWER BALL JOINT USING THE HARDWARE THAT CAME WITH THE KIT, AND IT ATTACHES TO OUR NEW BALL JOINT ON OUR UPPER CONTROL ARM AT THE TOP.

(NARRATOR)>> STICK AROUND AND LEARN HOW TO REPLACE SOME SUPER STUBBORN SWAY BAR BUSHINGS.

(MARC)>> HEY WELCOME BACK. WE'RE CHUGGING ALONG ON OUR '69 CHARGER AND WE'RE WELL ON OUR WAY TO GETTING THIS OLE MOPAR TO STOP, STEER, AND HANDLE A WHOLE LOT BETTER. WE'VE ALREADY CLEANED EVERYTHING UP AND INSTALLED SOME NEW BUSHINGS, BALL JOINTS, AND SPINDLES, BUT WE'VE RUN INTO A BIT OF A SNAG. THESE ORIGINAL SWAY BAR MOUNT BUSHINGS ARE CAPTURED INSIDE THE MOUNT ITSELF. THE BUSHING RIGHT HERE IS ACTUALLY THE PART THAT WE WANT TO REPLACE BUT IT LOOKS LIKE WHEN THEY BUILT EVERYTHING THEY ENCASES COMPLETELY IN THIS MOUNT AND WELDED IT TOGETHER. WELL THERE ARE TWO WAYS THAT WE COULD ATTACK THIS. ONE, WE COULD CUT THE BRACKET, OPEN IT UP, REMOVE THE OLD BUSHING, PUT THE NEW ONE IN, AND CLOSE IT BACK UP AND REWELD IT, OR WE COULD DRIVE OUT THE OLD BUSHING AND THEN REINSTALL THE NEW ONE WITH PRESSURE AND PATIENCE, BUT THERE'S ONLY ONE WAY TO FIND OUT. I'M CHOOSING A DRILL BECAUSE MOST EVERYONE HAS ONE, STARTING WITH A SMALLER BIT. [ drill spinning ]

(MARC)>> THIS RUBBER HAS LOST ALL ITS WILL TO LIVE. IT'S VERY BRITTLE AND NO LONGER ACTING AS AN INSULATOR. WITH A LARGER BIT AND A CHISEL, I'M ABLE TO KNOCK OUT ALL THE CHUNKS AND SLIDE OFF THE BRACKET. NOW I CAN CLEAN THEM UP, AND REMOVE ANY SHARP EDGES THAT I MAY HAVE CREATED. THE BAR GETS SMOOTHED OVER AS WELL, AND SOME PAINT TO PREVENT RUST. THIS WILL ALSO HELP WITH THE NEXT STEP, REASSEMBLY. THESE ARE THE NEW BUSHINGS THAT WE GOT WITH ALL OF OUR STUFF FROM ROCK AUTO DOT COM. THEY ARE POLYURETHANE. SO THEY'RE QUITE A BIT STIFFER THAN THE STOCK RUBBER ONES. HOPEFULLY THAT WILL ALLOW US TO JAMB THEM IN THERE A LITTLE EASIER, BUT TO HELP WE'RE GONNA USE THIS SILICONE LUBRICANT THAT CAME WITH THEM. THE BUSHING HAS TO FIRST SLIDE OVER THE END LINK EYELET. THEN IT CAN BE SLID DOWN THE BAR TO NEAR WHERE IT'S GOING TO MEET UP WITH THE BRACKET. A LITTLE MORE LUBE IS DEFINITELY GONNA BE NEEDED HERE. IT TAKES QUITE A BIT OF ELBOW GREASE TO GET THE BUSHING INTO THE BRACKET, AND IT DOESN'T LOOK LIKE THIS WAY IS GONNA WORK. WE'LL PUT THE TOP IN FIRST AND TRY THAT. AN EXTRA SET OF HANDS IS NEEDED AT THIS POINT. FINALLY IT GOES IN. WELL THAT WASN'T MUCH FUN AND IT WAS ACTUALLY HARDER THAN I EXPECTED IT TO BE, BUT REMEMBER EARLIER I SAID THERE WERE TWO WAYS TO DO THIS. WELL HERE'S THE OTHER WAY. [ saw spinning ]

(MARC)>> WE'RE GONNA USE THE CUT OFF WHEEL TO CUT THROUGH THE EXISTING WELDS. [ saw cutting metal ]

(MARC)>> A LITTLE WORK ON THE BELT SANDER WILL CLEAN UP OUR CUT AND READY THE PIECES TO BE WELDED BACK TOGETHER. WITH THE BUSHING IN PLACE WE CAN INSTALL THE BRACKET AND CLAMP IT ON WITH A CCLAMP. THIS IS WHERE THE BUSHING GETS COMPRESSED. SO IT TAKES A LITTLE BIT OF PATIENCE TO GET IT ALL LINED UP, AND THEN WE CAN TACK THEM IN PLACE. A SERIES OF SMALL, QUICK TACKS IS ALL WE NEED TO WELD UP THESE SEAMS BECAUSE WE DON'T WANT IT TO GET TOO HOT AND MELT THE NEW BUSHING. WELL WE'VE SHOWN YOU TWO WAYS TO GET THOSE BUSHINGS INSTALLED AND I LIKE THIS WAY BETTER. IT'S A LOT EASIER. JUST NEED TO GET A COUPLE OF COATS OF PAINT ON THESE WELDS, GET IT INSTALLED.

(NARRATOR)>> AFTER THE BREAK WE'LL TOP OFF OUR STEERING SWAP WITH A FANCY NEW GEAR BOX.

(MARC)>> HEY WHILE YOU WERE GONE WE WENT AHEAD AND GOT THIS SWAY BAR MOUNTED AND INSTALLED THOSE NEW END LINKS. NOW WE'VE DONE A BUNCH OF NEW SUSPENSION COMPONENTS HERE ON OUR '69 DODGE CHARGER AND IT'S TIME TO MOVE ON TO THE STEERING. ONE OF THE MAJOR PROBLEMS WE WERE HAVING WITH THE STEERING SYSTEM ON OUR OLD MOPAR WAS THIS LEAKY STEERING BOX. IT'S GOT FLUID COMING OUT JUST ABOUT EVERY SINGLE SEAL. IT'S GOT AN ORIGINAL DATE OF JANUARY OF '68. SO IT'S PROBABLY THE ONE THAT CAME ON THE CAR, AND IT LOOKS LIKE IT'S NEVER BEEN TOUCHED. SO WE WENT TO SUMMIT RACING FOR THIS QUICK RATIO BOX. IT'S A 14 TO ONE RATIO AND HAS THREE AND A HALF TURNS FROM LOCK TO LOCK. IT'S A GOOD UPGRADE FOR A STOCK PIECE BUT IT'S ALSO A GREAT CONVERSION BOX IF YOUR CAR HAD MANUAL STEERING. BEST PART ABOUT THIS THOUGH, 10 POUNDS LIGHTER THAN THAT STOCK PIECE. WE'RE USING THE ORIGINAL BOLTS TO GET OUR NEW BOX ONTO THE KMEMBER. WE'LL JUST SNUG IT DOWN FOR NOW BECAUSE WE'LL NEED TO LOOSEN LATER TO INSTALL THE NEW UNIVERSAL JOINT. THE ONLY MODIFICATION NEEDED IS FOR THE COLUMN TO BE CUT DOWN JUST A BIT TO ACCEPT THAT NEW JOINT. WE'LL CUT ABOUT AN INCH OFF AND REMOVE THE ROUGH EDGES. A LITTLE SAND PAPER WILL CLEAN UP THE SHAFT, AND SOME WD 40 WILL HELP THAT NEW JOINT GET STARTED, AND WITH THE BOX LOOSE AGAIN WE CAN MATE IT TO THE JOINT. THE MOUNTING BOLTS NEED TO BE TORQUED TO ABOUT 85 FOOT POUNDS. THE SET SCREW AND JAM NUT GET TIGHTENED NEXT. TO SECURE THE JOINT TO THE COLUMN WE JUST NEED TO DRILL AND HAMMER IN THE ROLL PIN, AND THERE'S TWO MORE.

THE PITMAN ARM CAN THEN ATTACH TO THE NEW BOX, AND IT GETS TORQUED TO 120 FOOT POUNDS. THE NEW IDLER ARM CAN THEN BOLT TO THE KMEMBER. THE CENTER LINK, WHICH WE'RE REUSING BECAUSE IT'S NOT A WEAR ITEM, CAN THEN BE ATTACHED TO THE PITMAN AND IDLER ARMS. IT GETS TIGHTENED AND SECURED WITH COTTER PINS. WE'RE PREASSEMBLING OUR TIE RODS USING THE NEW INNERS, OUTERS, AND ADJUSTORS. WE'LL USE THE OLD ONES AS A STARTING LENGTH, AND THAT WILL GET US PRETTY CLOSE ON THE ALIGNMENT. THE TIE RODS CAN ATTACH TO THE CENTER LINK, AND THEN TO THE STEERING ARMS, AND A COTTER PIN WILL KEEP THEM THERE FOR MANY MILES TO COME. OUR NEW DISC BRAKES CAN GO ON NOW, STARTING WITH THE BACKING PLATE. THESE ROTORS CAME WITH NEW BEARINGS ALL PREPACKED WITH GREASE. SO WE CAN JUST SEAT THEM IN AND LOCK THE NUT WITH A COTTER PIN. THE CALIPER ASSEMBLY IS NEXT, AND JUST BOLTS TO THE SPINDLE WITH TWO BOLTS. THEN THE BRAKE HOSE CAN GO ON AND GET CINCHED DOWN. MOVING UP TO THE ENGINE BAY, OUR OLD BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER CAN BE REMOVED, AND THE NEW ONE JUST BOLTS IN ITS PLACE. WE HAVE TO ADAPT THE BRAKE LINES TO THE NEW PROPORTIONING VALVE, AND WE'LL TIGHTEN THEM DOWN AND WE'RE ALL DONE.

(TOMMY)>> NOW WE JUST ABOUT GOT OUR OLE CHEVELLE READY TO START SPRAYING ON SOME COLOR, AND I SURE AM GLAD ALL THAT BLOCKING IS JUST ABOUT TO END. NOW WE'VE GOT ONE FENDER LEFT TO DO. SO I THOUGHT WE'D SLOW DOWN AND GIVE YOU A FEW TIPS ON SANDING, AND IF YOU'RE AROUND THIS STUFF LONG ENOUGH WELL YOU'LL HEAR THE TERM HAND SANDING, BUT THERE IS THE RIGHT AND WRONG WAY TO DO IT. THE FIRST THING YOU WANT TO DO IS TAKE A PIECE OF SAND PAPER AND FOLD IT INTO THIRDS.

WE'RE GONNA SLAP ON A LITTLE BIT OF GUIDE COAT TO SHOW YOU WHAT WE'RE TALKING ABOUT. NEXT WHEN YOU GO TO SAND YOU WANT TO USE THE MEAT OF YOUR HAND, NOT YOUR FINGERTIPS, AND HERE'S WHY. WHEN YOU COMBINE THE IRREGULAR SHAPE OF YOUR FINGERS AND THE PRESSURE FROM THEM YOU'RE GONNA BE SANDING GROOVES INTO THE SURFACE. IF YOU DO THIS OVER THE ENTIRE PANEL YOU'RE GONNA HAVE A MESS ON YOUR HANDS, BUT YOU CAN FIX IT. IT JUST REQUIRES A SANDING BLOCK AND SOME MORE GUIDE COAT. SIMPLE RECOAT THE PANEL AND SAND IN A CROSS PATTERN. YOU'LL SEE THE GUIDE COAT BEING SANDED OFF THE SURFACE BEFORE THE GROOVES. THEN JUST KEEP SANDING UNTIL THEY BOTH GO AWAY. SHOULDN'T TAKE A BUNCH OF EFFORT BUT IT ALL DEPENDS ON THE DEPTH OF THOSE GROOVES. IT'S USUALLY A BETTER IDEA TO USE A SANDING BLOCK ON THE BIGGER, FLATTER SURFACES BUT THERE ARE THE OCCASION THAT YOU WON'T BE ABLE TO USE A BLOCK, KINDA LIKE UP HERE ON THE TOP. SO THIS IS HOW YOU'D WANT TO DO IT. USING THE BIGGER PART OF YOUR HAND, APPLY NICE EVEN PRESSURE. YOU'LL WANT TO SAND IN A BACK AND FORTH PATTERN WITH LONG STRAIGHT STROKES. YOU DON'T WANT TO SAND IN A CIRCULAR MANNER. IF YOU DO IT CAN CAUSE SAND SCRATCHES AND A WAVY SURFACE THAT WILL BE SEEN ONCE PAINTED. IT'S ALSO A GOOD IDEA TO SAND IN THE DIRECTION OF THE BODY LINES FOR BEST RESULTS. DOING SANDING LIKE THIS IS PRETTY COMMON, ESPECIALLY WITH ODD SHAPES LIKE THE TOP OF THIS FENDER, AND WHENEVER YOU DO IT CORRECTLY THERE'S NOTHING WRONG WITH IT. ANOTHER TIP FOR YOU. THIS BLACK STUFF THAT WE'RE SPRAYING ON THE SIDE OF THIS FENDER IS CALLED GUIDE COAT. IT'S NOT PAINT AND THIS IS WHY YOU'D WANT TO USE THAT TYPE OF THING.

I'M GONNA START SANDING ON THIS SIDE THAT I SPRAYED THE GUIDE COAT ON FIRST. THEN GO OVER TO THIS SIDE AND YOU'LL SEE THE DIFFERENCE IN THE TWO.

NOW IF YOU LOOK HERE ON THE BOTTOM OF THE BLOCK ALL THE POWDER IS ALL CRUMBLY. WHEN I SAND THIS SIDE THAT'S NOT GONNA BE IT AT ALL.

NOW IF YOU NOTICE THIS STUFF IS STARTING TO CAKE UP JUST A BIT, AND THAT'S BECAUSE IT'S PAINT, NOT THAT GUIDE COAT. WELL I GET THE JOY OF FINISH SANDING THIS FENDER, BUT IT'S OKAY BECAUSE IT'S THE ONE LAST PANEL AND THEN WE GET TO PAINT THAT CHEVELLE. I'M KIND OF EXCITED.

(MARC)>> WELL WE STILL NEED TO BLEED THE BRAKES AND GET AN ALIGNMENT DONE, BUT THE HARD PART IS BASICALLY OVER. WE DO STILL HAVE AN EMPTY ENGINE BAY, BUT WE ARE GONNA BE ADDRESSING THAT REALLY SOON, AND YOU'RE PROBABLY WONDERING WHY DIDN'T YOU GUYS PAINT THE ENGINE BAY WHILE YOU WERE IN THERE AND HAD ALL THAT STUFF OUT? WELL WE HAVE A GOOD REASON FOR THAT. WE'VE DECIDED TO PUSH THE PAINT OF THIS PROJECT OFF UNTIL WAY LATER IN THE BUILD. THAT'S BECAUSE WE'VE GOT BIG PLANS FOR IT AND IT IS GONNA BE AWESOME. WELL TOMMY'S BUSY ON THE CHEVELLE GETTING IT READY FOR PAINT. SO HOPEFULLY HE'LL BE SPRAYING THAT NEXT TIME. WELL THAT'S ALL THE TIME WE HAVE FOR TODAY. SO UNTIL WE SEE YOU AGAIN, IF YOU CAN'T FIND'EM, GRIND'EM.