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(NARRATOR)>> THIS WEEK TRUCK TECH IS ADVANCING TWO PROJECTS AT ONCE. LT TACKLES A REAR END UPGRADE ON THE F-100, AND JEREMY STARTS A SUPERCHARGER INSTALL ON "KLASSY KFIVE"!
(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO THE SHOP. TODAY WE'VE GOT A FEW COOL THINGS IN STORE FOR YOU, AND I'M GONNA BE WORKING ON OUR '89 KFIVE BLAZER. WE'VE GOT IT ALL BODY WORKED AND IN PRIMER, AND IT'S READY TO START SANDING FOR PAINT. WE'VE GOT THE BODY MOUNTED TO THE FRAME FOR GOOD AND ALL OF OUR SUSPENSION WORK IS TAKEN CARE OF, AND I WOULD SAY WE DEFINITELY HAVE ENOUGH CLEARANCE FOR THOSE OBSTACLES OUT ON THE TRAIL, AND WE'VE ALSO GOT A COOL SET OF WHEELS AND TIRES, BUT SPEAKING OF THE TRAIL I THINK WE NEED TO SEE IF WE CAN GET A LITTLE MORE POWER OUT OF THAT BIG BLOCK. SO I'VE GOT A FEW NEW PARTS OVER HERE. WE'LL WORK ON GETTING THEM UNBOXED.
(LT)>> AND I'LL BE OVER HERE WORKING ON THIS, OUR 1974 FORD F-100. NOW IF YOU'LL REMEMBER, OUR GOAL IS TO MAKE THIS TRUCK HANDLE JUST A LITTLE BIT BETTER OUT ON THE TRACK FOR A BUDGET. NOW WE JUST WENT THROUGH THE SUSPENSION AND WE GOT IT SITTING CLOSER TO THE GROUND, AND WE ADDED SOME SWAY BARS TO STIFFEN THINGS UP. I'LL ALSO BE WORKING ON PERFORMANCE BUT NOT UNDERNEATH THE HOOD. I'LL BE TALKING ABOUT THE REAR AXLE TODAY. IT HAS A REALLY HIGH GEAR RATIO IN IT. WE BELIEVE IT'S A 2.73, AND IT HAS AN OPEN DIFFERENTIAL. SO IT ONLY SPINS ONE TIRE. NO DRIFTING FOR US! SO TODAY I'M GONNA TAKE CARE OF THAT BY REGEARING AND ADDING A POSI. WE NEED TO REMOVE THE THIRD MEMBER FROM THE AXLE. SO WE'LL PUT OUR TRUCK UP ON THE TWO POST LIFT. THEN REMOVE THE REAR WHEELS. THE BRAKE DRUMS CAN SLIDE OFF, AND THE HOLE IN THE HUB IS USED TO ACCESS THE WHEEL BEARING RETAINING HARDWARE. [ drill spinning ]
(LT)>> ONCE THE FOUR BOLTS ARE OFF, A SLIDE HAMMER IS ATTACHED TO THE HUB, AND A FEW HITS LOOSEN THE WHEEL BEARING FROM THE AXLE TUBE, AND THE AXLE IS PULLED AWAY. NEXT THE REAR DRIVESHAFT IS UNBOLTED AND SLID OUT. THE SERIES OF BOLTS THAT HOLD THE THIRD MEMBER IN PLACE ARE REMOVED. THE SEAL IS CRACKLED. HERE COME THE WATER WORKS! AND ALL THE FLUID DRAINS OUT. SO HAVE A PAN HANDY. IT TAKES A BIT TO PRY THE THIRD MEMBER OFF ALL THE STUDS, AND THEN IT'S OFF TO THE WORK BENCH. YEP, OPEN DIFFERENTIAL, NO GOOD!
(JEREMY)>> OUR 454 HO BIG BLOCK SITTING BETWEEN THE FRAME RAILS PUTS OUT PRETTY DECENT POWER LIKE IT SITS. IT'S AROUND 438 HORSEPOWER AND 500 POUND FEET OF TORQUE, BUT LIKE ALWAYS WE WANT MORE POWER, AND WE PLAN TO DO THAT WITH FORCED INDUCTION. NOW WE GAVE YOU A TEASER A LITTLE WHILE BACK THAT WE PLAN TO RUN THIS. A PROCHARGER BIG BLOCK CHEVY SUPERCHARGER KIT, AND IT COMES WITH EVERYTHING WE NEED TO MAKE IT HAPPEN. THE ACCESSORY DRIVE BRACKET, SUPERCHARGER BRACKET, CARBURETOR HAT, BYPASS VALVE, ALL THE TUBES, HOSES, AND HARDWARE WE NEED, AND IT EVEN COMES WITH THE BELTS, BUT THE BEST PART IS THIS DONESC SUPERCHARGER. ITS CASE IS CONSTRUCTED OF 60-61 ALUMINUM BILLET. SO IT'S BULLET PROOF, AND WE OPTED FOR THE POLISHED VERSION SO UNDER THE HOOD THIS THING REALLY POPS, BUT THE DONESC CAN SUPPORT UP TO 925 HORSEPOWER, BUT WE DON'T PLAN TO GO QUITE THAT CRAZY. WE WANT TO RUN SOMEWHERE AROUND SIX TO EIGHT POUNDS OF BOOST, DEPENDING ON WHICH PULLEY WE RUN ON THE FRONT OF THIS THING. THE SMALLER THE PULLEY, THE MORE BOOST WE'LL GAIN. WE'RE HOPING FOR SOMEWHERE AROUND 550 TO 600 HORSEPOWER WHEN IT'S ALL SAID AND DONE. THAT'LL BE PLENTY OUT ON THE TRAIL AND CERTAINLY STILL COMFORTABLE ON THE HIGHWAY, BUT BEFORE WE CAN GET TO BOLTING ANY OF THIS ON WE'VE GOT A FEW THINGS WE NEED TO GET ON THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE FIRST. WE'LL GET STARTED WITH THE WATER PUMP. WE PICKED THIS WATER PUMP UP FROM SUMMIT RACING AND WE'RE INSTALLING IT USING THE SUPPLIED GASKETS AND HARDWARE. WITH THE HARMONIC BALANCER ALREADY INSTALLED ON OUR ENGINE, WE CAN BOLT ON THE NEW CRANK PULLEY THAT WILL DRIVE OUR SUPERCHARGER, FOLLOWED BY THE WATER PUMP PULLEY. ALL RIGHT, THE NEXT THING TO GO ON OUR ENGINE IS THE POWER STEERING PUMP, BUT BEFORE WE GET TO THAT WE NEED TO INSTALL THE PULLEY ONTO THE PUMP. NOW WHEN YOU DO THIS DON'T TRY TO FORCE IT ON WITH A HAMMER OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT BECAUSE IT ONLY TAKES A SECOND TO DESTROY THIS PUMP OR THE PULLEY, AND THEN YOU'RE JUST OUT MORE MONEY. SO DO YOURSELF A FAVOR. GO DOWN TO THE LOCAL PARTS STORE AND RENT ONE OF THESE POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY SETS. IT COMES WITH THE INSTALLER. THIS WAY YOU KNOW YOU'RE DOING IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME AND SAVE YOURSELF A LITTLE HEADACHE. FIRST THREAD THE TOOL INTO THE SHAFT OF THE PUMP. HOLDING THE BOLT SECURE, YOU CAN THEN SPIN THE LOWER NUT, WHICH WILL PRESS THE PULLEY ONTO THE PUMP. USING THE SUPPLIED SPACERS, WE CAN BOLT THE PUMP ONTO THE ENGINE.
(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT, LT GETS DOWN AND DIRTY ON THE F-100'S DRIVETRAIN, AND JEREMY KEEPS WORKING TOWARD THE BOOST.
(LT)>> WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. WE'RE WORKING ON OUR F-100, AND WE HAVE THE REAR AXLE COMPLETELY TORE DOWN. ALL THAT'S LEFT IN THE TRUCK IS A BARE HOUSING AND A COUPLE OF BRAKES. IF YOU'RE USED TO WORKING ON GM TRUCKS THEN YOU'LL PROBABLY NOTICE THIS CAME APART JUST A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENTLY BECAUSE TYPICALLY THE RING AND PINION WILL MOUNT IN THE AXLE HOUSING ITSELF, WHERE ON THIS FORD NINE INCH THIS WHOLE ASSEMBLY IS REMOVED. NOW WE CALL THIS A THIRD MEMBER, AND EVEN THOUGH IT LOOKS A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENTLY IT OPERATES THE SAME EXACT WAY AS ANY STANDARD RING AND PINION GEAR SET. NOW WE'RE GONNA COMPLETELY TEAR THIS THING DOWN, AND THE ONLY PART WE'RE GOING TO REUSE IS THE HOUSING, THE PINION SUPPORT, AND THE PINION YOKE. SO AS ALWAYS WHEN WORKING ON GEAR SETS THE VERY FIRST STEP IS TO MARK THE BEARING CAPS. THIS IS DONE TO ENSURE THEY GO BACK IN THE SAME PLACE THEY STARTED, GIVING US ACCURATE BEARING LOAD. WE CAN FIRST REMOVE THE SIDE ADJUSTOR LOCK TABS. THEN THE FOUR BEARING CAP BOLTS, AND THE OLD CARRIER AND RING GEAR CAN BE REMOVED. NEXT WE'LL FLIP THE HOUSING AND REMOVE THE FIVE PINION SUPPORT BOLTS. IT'S A TIGHT FIT, SO IT TAKES A BIT OF HAMMERING WITH A THIN CHISEL TO SEPARATE THE TWO HALVES, AND THEN THIRD MEMBER IS SET ASIDE. LASTLY WE'LL LOOSEN THE PINION NUT, TAKE OFF THE YOKE, AND REMOVE THE FRONT HOUSING FROM THE PINION GEAR. WE'RE GOING TO CLEAN EVERYTHING UP IN OUR NEW CRC SMART WASHER, WHICH USES AND ENVIRONMENTALLY SAFE ALTERNATIVE TO TRADITIONAL SOLVENTS CALLED "OZZY JUICE". IT HEATS THE FLUID TO A COMFORTABLE 105 DEGREES, AND IT MAKES QUICK WORK OF THE DIRT AND OIL ON ALL OUR PARTS. WITH OUR PARTS ALL CLEANED UP WE NEED TO TALK ABOUT WHAT WE'RE GONNA USE TO PUT THAT THIRD MEMBER BACK TOGETHER, AND IF YOU'LL REMEMBER WE HAVE TWO PROBLEMS THAT WE NEED TO SOLVE HERE. NUMBER ONE IS THE GEAR RATIO, AND NUMBER TWO IS THAT OPEN DIFFERENTIAL THAT ONLY SPINS ONE WHEEL. SO IF WE COUNT THE NUMBER OF TEETH ON OUR RING GEAR WE HAVE 39, AND THE NUMBER OF TEETH ON THE PINION GEAR COMES IN AT 13. SO IF YOU DO THE MATH WE ACTUALLY HAVE A 3.00 TO ONE GEAR RATIO. NOW THAT GIVES THE TRUCK A NICE COMFORTABLE CRUISING RPM WHEN WE'RE GOING DOWN THE HIGHWAY, BUT IT REALLY DOESN'T DO US ANY FAVORS IN TERMS OF ACCELERATION. SO WE WENT TO SUMMIT RACING AND WE GRABBED ONE OF THEIR 3.89 TO ONE GEAR SETS FOR THE FORD NINE INCH. NOW THIS WILL DEFINITELY GIVE THAT TRUCK A LOT MORE LEVERAGE AND HELP IT GET OFF THE LINE QUICKER, BUT IT'S NOT TOO AGGRESSIVE OF A GEAR RATIO SO WE CAN STILL DRIVE THE TRUCK DOWN THE HIGHWAY WITHOUT A TOO HIGH CRUISING RPM. WE ALSO PICKED UP A SUMMIT RACING INSTALLATION KIT THAT COMES WITH ALL THE BEARINGS AND SHIMS WE NEED TO PROPERLY INSTALL AND SETUP THAT GEAR PATTERN. THE SECOND HALF OF OUR EQUATION IS TRACTION, AND TO SOLVE FOR THAT WE WENT AND GRABBED THIS DETROIT TRUE TRACK, WHICH IS MADE BY EATON. THIS IS ACTUALLY A HELICAL STYLE PERFORMANCE DIFFERENTIAL, AND IT WORKS WITH AN INTERNAL ARRAY OF GEARS. NOW THAT MEANS THERE ARE NO CLUTCHES THAT ARE GONNA WEAR OUT, AND THERE'S NO HARSH ENGAGEMENT LIKE YOU GET WITH A TYPICAL MECHANICAL LOCKER. NOW THIS WILL GIVE US MAXIMUM TRACTION WHEN WE'RE OUT ON THE TRACK, BUT IT STILL ALLOWS FOR THAT DIFFERENCE OF WHEEL SPEED TO MAKE FOR A NICE, SMOOTH CORNERING WHEN WE'RE DRIVING IN THE CITY. NOW THAT MEANS THE TRUE TRACK IS DEFINITELY THE IDEAL DIFFERENTIAL FOR A MULTI PURPOSE STREET AND TRACK VEHICLE, AND IN JUST A LITTLE BIT WE'LL GET THIS THING INSTALLED.
(JEREMY)>> NOW WHILE LT'S OVER THERE PLAYING WITH THAT REAR END WE'RE MAKING PRETTY GOOD PROGRESS ON THE KFIVE. WHAT'S REALLY COOL ABOUT THESE PROCHARGER KITS IS HOW COMPLETE THEY ARE, BUT NOT ONLY THAT, JUST LIKE THIS ACCESSORY DRIVE BRACKET. ALL THE PULLEYS COME ALREADY PREINSTALLED, AND YOU HAVE THE BELT TENSIONER THERE AS WELL. SO DEFINITELY SAVES YOU A LOT OF WORK. ANOTHER COOL THING ABOUT THIS SETUP IS IT ACTUALLY TAKES TWO DIFFERENT SIZE BELTS. FOR THE SMALLER ACCESSORY DRIVE SYSTEM IT TAKES A SIX RIB BELT FOR THE ALTERNATOR, WATER PUMP, AND STUFF LIKE THAT, BUT THE SUPERCHARGER GETS ITS OWN EIGHT RIB BELT. THIS IS GONNA MAKE SURE IT GETS ALL THE GRIP THAT IT NEEDS, AND WHEN WE HAMMER IT TO THE FLOOR WE WON'T GET ANY BELT SLIPPAGE. NEXT TO GO ON IS THE NEW ALTERNATOR THAT WE GRABBED FROM SUMMIT RACING. WE CHOSE ONE IN A POLISHED FINISH TO MATCH OUR BRACKETS, AND JUST A COUPLE OF BOLTS SECURE IT IN PLACE. YOU CAN OBVIOUSLY SEE THAT THE PULLEY THAT'S MOUNTED ON THE ALTERNATOR RIGHT NOW DOES NOT LINE UP WITH OUR NEW ACCESSORY DRIVE SYSTEM. SO I'M GONNA GET THIS ONE YANKED OFF. LUCKILY FOR US PROCHARGER OFFERS A PULLEY WITH THIS SETUP THAT HAS THE CORRECT OFFSET. SO WE KNOW OUR BELT WILL LINE UP PERFECTLY. USING OUR HALF INCH DRIVE IMPACT, WE CAN LOCK IT DOWN.
(NARRATOR)>> STAY WITH US, LT SHOWS HOW TO REFRESH AN OLD AND WARN OUT REAR END.
(LT)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. THE VERY FIRST STEP TO REBUILDING THIS NINE INCH IS ACTUALLY DRIVING THESE BEARING RACES OUT OF THE PINION SUPPORT, AND WE'LL ACCOMPLISH THAT WITH A SIMPLE PUNCH AND A FEW BLOWS OF THE HAMMER. THIS IS THE ONE. NEW RACES ARE DRIVEN BACK IN WITH A SOFT FACED DRIVER AS TO NOT DAMAGE THE PARTS. NEXT UP WE'LL MOVE TO THE PRESS AND INSTALL THE FIRST PINION BEARING. YOU'LL NOTICE THERE IS NO SHIM ON THE NINE INCH, AND THEN IT'S BACK TO THE TABLE. ALL RIGHT, WITH THE FIRST PINION BEARING ON WE'RE GONNA PUT ON THE CRUSH COLLAR, GONNA INSTALL THE PINION SUPPORT, AND WE'RE GONNA SLIDE ON THE SECOND PINION BEARING. NOW WE HAVE TO PRESS IT DOWN INTO PLACE. SO WE'RE GONNA USE THIS PIPE. THEN THE FRONT SEAL IS DRIVEN INTO PLACE, THIS TIME USING A SCRAP PIECE OF AXLE TUBE. THE OLD YOKE GOES BACK ON, FOLLOWED BY THE PINION NUT. NEXT WE'LL MOVE ONTO THE VICE TO SET BEARING PRELOAD. I'M USING A PINION HOLDING TOOL AND A BREAKER BAR TO SLOWLY TIGHTEN THE NUT, WHICH COMPRESSES THE CRUSH SLEEVE UNTIL THE DESIRED PRELOAD IS REACHED. WITH NEW BEARINGS AND A SEAL IN PLACE I'M HAPPY WITH 30 INCH POUNDS. NEXT WE'LL HEAD BACK TO THE SHOP PRESS AND INSTALL THE CARRIER BEARINGS ONTO OUR NEW TRUE TRACK. BACK AT THE TABLE WE'LL START TO PULL THE RING GEAR ONTO THE CARRIER WITH SOME LONG BOLTS. BACK THEM OUT, AND INSTALL 10 NEW BOLTS WITH BLUE THREAD LOCKER. FIRST I'LL RUN THEM DOWN WITH AN IMPACT GUN, AND FINALLY TORQUE THEM TO SPEC IN AN ALTERNATING PATTERN. I'LL THROW IN THE ORIGINAL SHIM FOR NOW. THE PINION SUPPORT GOES IN, AND I'LL TIGHTEN THE BOLTS. THEN FLIP THE HOUSING. THE BEARING RACES GO ON THE CARRIER AND IT IS SET INTO THE THIRD MEMBER. THE BEARING CAPS ARE THREADED ON, AND THE SIDE ADJUSTORS ARE SCREWED IN, AND I'LL ROUGH IN THE BACKLASH. I'LL CLAMP THE THIRD MEMBER IN A VICE SO WE CAN RUN A PATTERN CHECK. A SPECIAL WAXY PAINT IS BRUSHED ONTO EACH SIDE OF A FEW TEETH, AND I'LL TURN THE RING GEAR BACK AND FORTH A FEW TIMES. THE PAINT WILL RUB OFF WHERE EACH OF THE GEARS TOUCH. WELL THE INITIAL PATTERN CHECK IS ACTUALLY PRETTY CLOSE. NOT PERFECT, BUT WE CAN WORK WITH IT. NOW THERE ARE TWO ADJUSTMENTS THAT YOU'RE GONNA HAVE TO MAKE TO CENTER THAT PATTERN PERFECTLY IN THE RING GEAR. NOW BACKLASH IS GONNA MOVE IT ON AN AXIS RUNNING THROUGH THE CENTER OF THE CARRIER, AND THE PINION DEPTH IS GONNA MOVE THE PATTERN CLOSER TO OR FARTHER AWAY FROM THE ROOT OF THE GEAR. ON OURS THE PATTERN IS MUCH CLOSER TO THE TOP OF THE TOOTH THAT IT IS DOWN TO THE ROOT. SO WE NEED TO SHIFT THAT PATTERN DOWN HERE. TO ACCOMPLISH THAT WE NEED TO PUSH THE PINION CLOSER TO THE RING GEAR, AND ON A FORD NINE INCH WE NEED A THINNER SHIM. ALL IT TAKES IS A FEW MINUTES TO PULL THE PINION SUPPORT. LET'S SEE, THE ORIGINAL SHIM WAS 25. SO I WANT TO TAKE ABOUT 10 OFF OF THAT. THAT'S 20, 15, THAT'S WHAT WE'LL GO WITH. A QUICK TOUCH UP OF THE PAINT AND WE'LL RUN ANOTHER CHECK. YEAH, THAT'S GETTING MORE WHERE I WANT IT. TAKE MAY JUST A LITTLE MORE OUT OF IT. THIS TIME I'LL THROW IN A 10 THOUSANDTHS SHIM AND I'M HAPPY WITH THE RESULT. GOT PINION DEPTH WHERE I WANT IT. YEAH, THAT'S WAY TOO TIGHT. WE'VE GOT LESS THAN A THOUSANDTH OF BACKLASH. NOW I'M LOOKING FOR ABOUT FIVE TO SEVEN. LUCKILY THAT'S VERY EASY TO FIX ON A NINE INCH. I HAVE TO INCREASE THE BACKLASH BY SHIFTING THE CARRIER AWAY FROM THE PINION GEAR. SO ALL I HAVE TO DO IS LOOSEN UP THIS SIDE ADJUSTOR AND TIGHTEN THIS ONE, AND WE SHOULD BE WITHIN SPEC.
RIGHT ON THE MONEY! LASTLY I'LL INSTALL THE TABS THAT LOCK THE SIDE ADJUSTORS IN PLACE, AND THIS NINE INCH IS DONE.
(NARRATOR)>> OUR "KLASSY KFIVE" IS GROWING SOME MUSCLE, STAY WITH US!
(LT)>> OFTEN WHEN YOU'RE BUILDING A PROJECT VEHICLE THERE ARE SOME SPECIALTY TOOLS THAT YOU'RE GONNA NEED TO PROPERLY COMPLETE THE JOB, AND MORE OFTEN THAN NOT THOSE TOOLS ARE GONNA TAKE A MEASUREMENT OF SOME KIND. WHETHER IT'S A DISTANCE, A LENGTH, OR AN AMOUNT OF TORQUE, AND YOU CAN PROBABLY GUESS, YOU NEED TO BE A LITTLE BIT MORE ACCURATE THAN A STANDARD TAPE MEASURE. SO TODAY I'M GONNA GO OVER WHAT I CONSIDER TO BE THE MOST ESSENTIAL MEASURING TOOLS THAT EVERYBODY SHOULD HAVE IN THEIR TOOL BOX, AND WE'LL SHOW YOU HOW THEY WORK. THE MOST BASIC MEASURING TOOL IS THE CALIPER. NOW THEY COME IN DIAL VERSIONS, DIGITAL, AND THERE ARE A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT SPECIALTY TYPES, AND THEY'RE PRETTY SIMPLE TO USE. JUST TAKE THE PART THAT YOU WANT TO MEASURE, OPEN UP THE JAWS, STICK IT INSIDE, AND CLOSE IT, AND IT'S ACTUALLY REALLY EASY TO READ THE MEASUREMENT SCALE. WE'LL START WITH THE FIRST BIGGEST NUMBER ON THE RULER, IN THIS CASE A ONE. THE NEXT BIGGEST IS A SIX, AND THEN WE HOP OVER TO THE DIAL AND WE HAVE 25. THAT GIVES US A FINAL MEASUREMENT OF ONE POINT SIXTWOFIVE INCHES. THIS PARTICULAR SET OF CALIPERS WILL ACTUALLY MEASURE IN BOTH MILLIMETERS AND IN INCHES, AND THERE ARE FOUR DIFFERENT MEASUREMENTS THAT IT WILL ACTUALLY TAKE. THE FIRST AND MOST COMMON IS A BASIC OUTSIDE MEASUREMENT, BUT THE JAWS ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE CAN TAKE AN INSIDE DIMENSION. NOW ADDITIONALLY THIS PART THAT STICKS OUT ON THE BACK, YOU CAN USE TO MEASURE THE DEPTH OF A HOLE, BUT THERE'S ONE LAST MEASUREMENT IT CAN TAKE. THIS PART ON THE BACK IS GREAT FOR MEASURING THE DISTANCE OF A STEPPED SURFACE. A DIAL INDICATOR IS ANOTHER VERY USEFUL TOOL YOU SHOULD KEEP AROUND THE SHOP. NOW TYPICALLY I USE IT TO CHECK BACKLASH ON A RING AND PINION SET OR END PLAY ON A CRANK SHAFT. NOW THERE'S A SMALL TIP OF A NEEDLE YOU PUT ON YOUR WORK SURFACE, AND THE TWO DIALS TOGETHER WILL TELL YOU EXACTLY WHAT DIMENSIONS YOU'RE AFTER, BUT YOU CAN ALSO USE THIS TO CHECK HOW ROUND SOMETHING IS. NOW THERE'S A MAGNETIC BASE, WHICH YOU CAN SWITCH ON OR OFF AND SECURELY ATTACH IT TO YOUR WORK SURFACE, AND THE ADJUSTABLE ARM LET'S YOU PRECISELY PLACE THE TIP OF THE NEEDLE WHERE YOU WANT IT. NOW BY SPINNING THIS SMALL PIECE OF PIPE WE CAN SEE THAT THERE'S ABOUT 10 THOUSANDTHS OF RUNOUT, WHICH MEANS IT'S NOT ROUND. THERE ARE TWO TYPES OF TORQUE WRENCHES THAT I LIKE TO KEEP AROUND THE SHOP. THE CLICKER STYLE AND THE DIAL. NOW YOU'VE SEEN US USE THESE A LOT. BASICALLY YOU TURN THE HANDLE UNTIL YOU REACH THE DESIRED TORQUE SETTING. YOU THROW ON YOUR SOCKET, AND YOU TIGHT IT, AND WHENEVER YOU HEAR THAT DISTINCTIVE CLICK THAT'S HOW YOU KNOW YOU'VE GOT TIGHT ENOUGH. NOW THEY MAKE THESE IN A WIDE RANGE OF SIZES, EVEN DOWN TO THIS LITTLE BABY QUARTER INCH GUY. NOW THE DIAL TYPE IS A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENT. BASICALLY IT TELLS YOU HOW MUCH TORQUE YOU'RE APPLYING AT THAT EXACT MOMENT IN TIME. AND THE ORANGE NEEDLE THERE, THAT WILL RECORD THE MAXIMUM VALUE THAT YOU'VE REACHED. THESE ARE ESPECIALLY USEFUL WHEN YOU'RE SETTING BEARING PRELOAD. NOW EVERY TOOL HERE DOES A SPECIFIC JOB, AND SOME DO COST MORE THAN OTHERS, BUT IF YOU'RE GOING TO BUILD A PROJECT VEHICLE THEN YOU'VE GOT TO INVEST IN SOME SPECIALTY TOOLS.
(JEREMY)>> WE'RE MOVING RIGHT ALONG ON BOTH OF OUR PROJECTS, AND AS FAR AS THE KFIVE GOES WE'RE GETTING REALLY CLOSE TO BOLTING ON SOME OF THE FUN STUFF. WE'RE STARTING BY INSTALLING THE BRACKET THAT WILL HOLD THE SUPERCHARGER IN PLACE. USING ALL THE SPACERS SENT WITH THE KIT, THE BRACKET INSTALLS ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE HEAD USING THREE SEVENSIXTEENTH INCH BOLTS. NEXT UP IS THE DONE SUPERCHARGER THAT BOLTS RIGHT INTO PLACE, AND WE'RE MAKING SURE TO INSTALL IT WITH THE LABEL ON THE SUPERCHARGER FACING UP. THEN WE'LL ADD ONE SIX OUNCE BOTTLE OF OIL SENT WITH THE SUPERCHARGER. ONE ADVANTAGE TO THESE SETUPS IS THE WAY THE BRACKETS AND THE SUPERCHARGERS ARE DESIGNED BECAUSE A LOT OF PROCHARGER HEAD UNITS ARE INTERCHANGEABLE. SO LET'S SAY DOWN THE ROAD YOU WANT TO BUILD YOUR ENGINE TO HANDLE A LITTLE MORE BOOST. WELL THIS BRACKET WILL HOLD UP TO AN FTWO SUPERCHARGER, WHICH CAN SUPPORT 1,600 HORSEPOWER. NOW WITH OUR SETUP WE COULD HAVE WENT WITH THE SMALLER PONE AND STILL MET OUR HORSEPOWER GOALS, BUT REMEMBER, THE DONE WILL SUPPORT UP TO 925 HORSES. SO THIS THING WON'T EVEN HAVE TO WORK HARD TO MEET THE GOALS WE'RE AFTER. PLUS THAT LEAVES US PLENTY OF ROOM IF WE WANT TO TURN IT UP A LITTLE BIT. NOW ANOTHER GREAT THING ABOUT A CENTRIFUGAL SUPERCHARGER, SAY OVER LIKE A ROOTS STYLE, IS THEY DON'T CREATE A TON OF HEAT. SO WITH OUR SETUP WE WON'T HAVE TO RUN AN INTERCOOLER. NEXT WE CAN START RUNNING THE PLUMBING FROM THE SUPERCHARGER UP TO THE CAR. WE CAN FIRST INSTALL THE TUBE THAT WILL HOLD THE BYPASS VALVE ONTO THE SUPERCHARGER. THEN THE RUBBER SLEEVE GOES ONTO THE CARBURETOR HAT. THEN THE HAT WILL ATTACH TO THE TUBE AND IT CAN SIT ON THE CARB. NOW WE'RE UNSURE AT THIS POINT IF WE WANT TO RUN A CARBURETOR OR SOME TYPE OF FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM, BUT IF WE DECIDE TO GO WITH A MULTI PORT OR A THROTTLE BODY THIS PLUMBING SETUP WILL WORK WITH EITHER OF THOSE. NOW THIS IS A NOT A BLOW THROUGH CARBURETOR, BUT NEXT TIME WE MAY YANK THIS THING OFF AND I'LL SHOW YOU GUYS HOW TO CONVERT IT INTO ONE. NOW I'VE STILL GOT QUITE A FEW ODD AND ENDS LEFT TO DO ON THIS. SO I'M GONNA KEEP GOING!
(LT)>> THERE IS ONE LAST CHANGE WE'RE GOING TO MAKE ON OUR NINE INCH. I ORDERED A 31 SPLINE TRUE TRACK BUT OUR AXLES WERE ORIGINALLY A 28. SO I WENT TO SUMMIT RACING AND GRABBED A PAIR OF NEW AXLE SHAFTS THAT ARE A 31 SPLINE TO MATCH OUR CARRIER. NOW WE'RE GONNA BE PUMPING A LOT MORE POWER THROUGH THIS REAR END. SO IT'S A MUCH NEEDED UPGRADE.
(JEREMY)>> NOW IF YOU GUYS REMEMBER, THE F-100 IS A BUDGET BUILD. SO WHERE DO WE STAND AFTER TODAY?
(LT)>> WELL WE SPENT $960 BUCKS ON ALL THE REAR END PARTS, AND PREVIOUSLY WE SPENT $1,440 ON ALL THE SUSPENSION AND THE SWAY BARS. ALL IN, $2,400 BUCKS THAT'LL DEFINITELY IMPROVE HOW THAT TRUCK PERFORMS.
(JEREMY)>> THAT'S NOT TOO BAD, AND AS FAR AS THE KFIVE GOES I'VE STILL GOT TO THROW ON A COUPLE OF BELTS, FINISH UP SOME CLAMPS, BUT HEY, WE'RE GETTING CLOSE. NEXT TIME WE HOPE TO PAINT IT AND GET THIS THING ASSEMBLED, BUT TO CHECK OUT MORE ON OUR BUILDS GO TO POWERNATION TV DOT COM.
(LT)>> DID YOU GROW?
(JEREMY)>> A LITTLE BIT.
(LT)>> I LIKE IT!
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(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO THE SHOP. TODAY WE'VE GOT A FEW COOL THINGS IN STORE FOR YOU, AND I'M GONNA BE WORKING ON OUR '89 KFIVE BLAZER. WE'VE GOT IT ALL BODY WORKED AND IN PRIMER, AND IT'S READY TO START SANDING FOR PAINT. WE'VE GOT THE BODY MOUNTED TO THE FRAME FOR GOOD AND ALL OF OUR SUSPENSION WORK IS TAKEN CARE OF, AND I WOULD SAY WE DEFINITELY HAVE ENOUGH CLEARANCE FOR THOSE OBSTACLES OUT ON THE TRAIL, AND WE'VE ALSO GOT A COOL SET OF WHEELS AND TIRES, BUT SPEAKING OF THE TRAIL I THINK WE NEED TO SEE IF WE CAN GET A LITTLE MORE POWER OUT OF THAT BIG BLOCK. SO I'VE GOT A FEW NEW PARTS OVER HERE. WE'LL WORK ON GETTING THEM UNBOXED.
(LT)>> AND I'LL BE OVER HERE WORKING ON THIS, OUR 1974 FORD F-100. NOW IF YOU'LL REMEMBER, OUR GOAL IS TO MAKE THIS TRUCK HANDLE JUST A LITTLE BIT BETTER OUT ON THE TRACK FOR A BUDGET. NOW WE JUST WENT THROUGH THE SUSPENSION AND WE GOT IT SITTING CLOSER TO THE GROUND, AND WE ADDED SOME SWAY BARS TO STIFFEN THINGS UP. I'LL ALSO BE WORKING ON PERFORMANCE BUT NOT UNDERNEATH THE HOOD. I'LL BE TALKING ABOUT THE REAR AXLE TODAY. IT HAS A REALLY HIGH GEAR RATIO IN IT. WE BELIEVE IT'S A 2.73, AND IT HAS AN OPEN DIFFERENTIAL. SO IT ONLY SPINS ONE TIRE. NO DRIFTING FOR US! SO TODAY I'M GONNA TAKE CARE OF THAT BY REGEARING AND ADDING A POSI. WE NEED TO REMOVE THE THIRD MEMBER FROM THE AXLE. SO WE'LL PUT OUR TRUCK UP ON THE TWO POST LIFT. THEN REMOVE THE REAR WHEELS. THE BRAKE DRUMS CAN SLIDE OFF, AND THE HOLE IN THE HUB IS USED TO ACCESS THE WHEEL BEARING RETAINING HARDWARE. [ drill spinning ]
(LT)>> ONCE THE FOUR BOLTS ARE OFF, A SLIDE HAMMER IS ATTACHED TO THE HUB, AND A FEW HITS LOOSEN THE WHEEL BEARING FROM THE AXLE TUBE, AND THE AXLE IS PULLED AWAY. NEXT THE REAR DRIVESHAFT IS UNBOLTED AND SLID OUT. THE SERIES OF BOLTS THAT HOLD THE THIRD MEMBER IN PLACE ARE REMOVED. THE SEAL IS CRACKLED. HERE COME THE WATER WORKS! AND ALL THE FLUID DRAINS OUT. SO HAVE A PAN HANDY. IT TAKES A BIT TO PRY THE THIRD MEMBER OFF ALL THE STUDS, AND THEN IT'S OFF TO THE WORK BENCH. YEP, OPEN DIFFERENTIAL, NO GOOD!
(JEREMY)>> OUR 454 HO BIG BLOCK SITTING BETWEEN THE FRAME RAILS PUTS OUT PRETTY DECENT POWER LIKE IT SITS. IT'S AROUND 438 HORSEPOWER AND 500 POUND FEET OF TORQUE, BUT LIKE ALWAYS WE WANT MORE POWER, AND WE PLAN TO DO THAT WITH FORCED INDUCTION. NOW WE GAVE YOU A TEASER A LITTLE WHILE BACK THAT WE PLAN TO RUN THIS. A PROCHARGER BIG BLOCK CHEVY SUPERCHARGER KIT, AND IT COMES WITH EVERYTHING WE NEED TO MAKE IT HAPPEN. THE ACCESSORY DRIVE BRACKET, SUPERCHARGER BRACKET, CARBURETOR HAT, BYPASS VALVE, ALL THE TUBES, HOSES, AND HARDWARE WE NEED, AND IT EVEN COMES WITH THE BELTS, BUT THE BEST PART IS THIS DONESC SUPERCHARGER. ITS CASE IS CONSTRUCTED OF 60-61 ALUMINUM BILLET. SO IT'S BULLET PROOF, AND WE OPTED FOR THE POLISHED VERSION SO UNDER THE HOOD THIS THING REALLY POPS, BUT THE DONESC CAN SUPPORT UP TO 925 HORSEPOWER, BUT WE DON'T PLAN TO GO QUITE THAT CRAZY. WE WANT TO RUN SOMEWHERE AROUND SIX TO EIGHT POUNDS OF BOOST, DEPENDING ON WHICH PULLEY WE RUN ON THE FRONT OF THIS THING. THE SMALLER THE PULLEY, THE MORE BOOST WE'LL GAIN. WE'RE HOPING FOR SOMEWHERE AROUND 550 TO 600 HORSEPOWER WHEN IT'S ALL SAID AND DONE. THAT'LL BE PLENTY OUT ON THE TRAIL AND CERTAINLY STILL COMFORTABLE ON THE HIGHWAY, BUT BEFORE WE CAN GET TO BOLTING ANY OF THIS ON WE'VE GOT A FEW THINGS WE NEED TO GET ON THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE FIRST. WE'LL GET STARTED WITH THE WATER PUMP. WE PICKED THIS WATER PUMP UP FROM SUMMIT RACING AND WE'RE INSTALLING IT USING THE SUPPLIED GASKETS AND HARDWARE. WITH THE HARMONIC BALANCER ALREADY INSTALLED ON OUR ENGINE, WE CAN BOLT ON THE NEW CRANK PULLEY THAT WILL DRIVE OUR SUPERCHARGER, FOLLOWED BY THE WATER PUMP PULLEY. ALL RIGHT, THE NEXT THING TO GO ON OUR ENGINE IS THE POWER STEERING PUMP, BUT BEFORE WE GET TO THAT WE NEED TO INSTALL THE PULLEY ONTO THE PUMP. NOW WHEN YOU DO THIS DON'T TRY TO FORCE IT ON WITH A HAMMER OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT BECAUSE IT ONLY TAKES A SECOND TO DESTROY THIS PUMP OR THE PULLEY, AND THEN YOU'RE JUST OUT MORE MONEY. SO DO YOURSELF A FAVOR. GO DOWN TO THE LOCAL PARTS STORE AND RENT ONE OF THESE POWER STEERING PUMP PULLEY SETS. IT COMES WITH THE INSTALLER. THIS WAY YOU KNOW YOU'RE DOING IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME AND SAVE YOURSELF A LITTLE HEADACHE. FIRST THREAD THE TOOL INTO THE SHAFT OF THE PUMP. HOLDING THE BOLT SECURE, YOU CAN THEN SPIN THE LOWER NUT, WHICH WILL PRESS THE PULLEY ONTO THE PUMP. USING THE SUPPLIED SPACERS, WE CAN BOLT THE PUMP ONTO THE ENGINE.
(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT, LT GETS DOWN AND DIRTY ON THE F-100'S DRIVETRAIN, AND JEREMY KEEPS WORKING TOWARD THE BOOST.
(LT)>> WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. WE'RE WORKING ON OUR F-100, AND WE HAVE THE REAR AXLE COMPLETELY TORE DOWN. ALL THAT'S LEFT IN THE TRUCK IS A BARE HOUSING AND A COUPLE OF BRAKES. IF YOU'RE USED TO WORKING ON GM TRUCKS THEN YOU'LL PROBABLY NOTICE THIS CAME APART JUST A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENTLY BECAUSE TYPICALLY THE RING AND PINION WILL MOUNT IN THE AXLE HOUSING ITSELF, WHERE ON THIS FORD NINE INCH THIS WHOLE ASSEMBLY IS REMOVED. NOW WE CALL THIS A THIRD MEMBER, AND EVEN THOUGH IT LOOKS A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENTLY IT OPERATES THE SAME EXACT WAY AS ANY STANDARD RING AND PINION GEAR SET. NOW WE'RE GONNA COMPLETELY TEAR THIS THING DOWN, AND THE ONLY PART WE'RE GOING TO REUSE IS THE HOUSING, THE PINION SUPPORT, AND THE PINION YOKE. SO AS ALWAYS WHEN WORKING ON GEAR SETS THE VERY FIRST STEP IS TO MARK THE BEARING CAPS. THIS IS DONE TO ENSURE THEY GO BACK IN THE SAME PLACE THEY STARTED, GIVING US ACCURATE BEARING LOAD. WE CAN FIRST REMOVE THE SIDE ADJUSTOR LOCK TABS. THEN THE FOUR BEARING CAP BOLTS, AND THE OLD CARRIER AND RING GEAR CAN BE REMOVED. NEXT WE'LL FLIP THE HOUSING AND REMOVE THE FIVE PINION SUPPORT BOLTS. IT'S A TIGHT FIT, SO IT TAKES A BIT OF HAMMERING WITH A THIN CHISEL TO SEPARATE THE TWO HALVES, AND THEN THIRD MEMBER IS SET ASIDE. LASTLY WE'LL LOOSEN THE PINION NUT, TAKE OFF THE YOKE, AND REMOVE THE FRONT HOUSING FROM THE PINION GEAR. WE'RE GOING TO CLEAN EVERYTHING UP IN OUR NEW CRC SMART WASHER, WHICH USES AND ENVIRONMENTALLY SAFE ALTERNATIVE TO TRADITIONAL SOLVENTS CALLED "OZZY JUICE". IT HEATS THE FLUID TO A COMFORTABLE 105 DEGREES, AND IT MAKES QUICK WORK OF THE DIRT AND OIL ON ALL OUR PARTS. WITH OUR PARTS ALL CLEANED UP WE NEED TO TALK ABOUT WHAT WE'RE GONNA USE TO PUT THAT THIRD MEMBER BACK TOGETHER, AND IF YOU'LL REMEMBER WE HAVE TWO PROBLEMS THAT WE NEED TO SOLVE HERE. NUMBER ONE IS THE GEAR RATIO, AND NUMBER TWO IS THAT OPEN DIFFERENTIAL THAT ONLY SPINS ONE WHEEL. SO IF WE COUNT THE NUMBER OF TEETH ON OUR RING GEAR WE HAVE 39, AND THE NUMBER OF TEETH ON THE PINION GEAR COMES IN AT 13. SO IF YOU DO THE MATH WE ACTUALLY HAVE A 3.00 TO ONE GEAR RATIO. NOW THAT GIVES THE TRUCK A NICE COMFORTABLE CRUISING RPM WHEN WE'RE GOING DOWN THE HIGHWAY, BUT IT REALLY DOESN'T DO US ANY FAVORS IN TERMS OF ACCELERATION. SO WE WENT TO SUMMIT RACING AND WE GRABBED ONE OF THEIR 3.89 TO ONE GEAR SETS FOR THE FORD NINE INCH. NOW THIS WILL DEFINITELY GIVE THAT TRUCK A LOT MORE LEVERAGE AND HELP IT GET OFF THE LINE QUICKER, BUT IT'S NOT TOO AGGRESSIVE OF A GEAR RATIO SO WE CAN STILL DRIVE THE TRUCK DOWN THE HIGHWAY WITHOUT A TOO HIGH CRUISING RPM. WE ALSO PICKED UP A SUMMIT RACING INSTALLATION KIT THAT COMES WITH ALL THE BEARINGS AND SHIMS WE NEED TO PROPERLY INSTALL AND SETUP THAT GEAR PATTERN. THE SECOND HALF OF OUR EQUATION IS TRACTION, AND TO SOLVE FOR THAT WE WENT AND GRABBED THIS DETROIT TRUE TRACK, WHICH IS MADE BY EATON. THIS IS ACTUALLY A HELICAL STYLE PERFORMANCE DIFFERENTIAL, AND IT WORKS WITH AN INTERNAL ARRAY OF GEARS. NOW THAT MEANS THERE ARE NO CLUTCHES THAT ARE GONNA WEAR OUT, AND THERE'S NO HARSH ENGAGEMENT LIKE YOU GET WITH A TYPICAL MECHANICAL LOCKER. NOW THIS WILL GIVE US MAXIMUM TRACTION WHEN WE'RE OUT ON THE TRACK, BUT IT STILL ALLOWS FOR THAT DIFFERENCE OF WHEEL SPEED TO MAKE FOR A NICE, SMOOTH CORNERING WHEN WE'RE DRIVING IN THE CITY. NOW THAT MEANS THE TRUE TRACK IS DEFINITELY THE IDEAL DIFFERENTIAL FOR A MULTI PURPOSE STREET AND TRACK VEHICLE, AND IN JUST A LITTLE BIT WE'LL GET THIS THING INSTALLED.
(JEREMY)>> NOW WHILE LT'S OVER THERE PLAYING WITH THAT REAR END WE'RE MAKING PRETTY GOOD PROGRESS ON THE KFIVE. WHAT'S REALLY COOL ABOUT THESE PROCHARGER KITS IS HOW COMPLETE THEY ARE, BUT NOT ONLY THAT, JUST LIKE THIS ACCESSORY DRIVE BRACKET. ALL THE PULLEYS COME ALREADY PREINSTALLED, AND YOU HAVE THE BELT TENSIONER THERE AS WELL. SO DEFINITELY SAVES YOU A LOT OF WORK. ANOTHER COOL THING ABOUT THIS SETUP IS IT ACTUALLY TAKES TWO DIFFERENT SIZE BELTS. FOR THE SMALLER ACCESSORY DRIVE SYSTEM IT TAKES A SIX RIB BELT FOR THE ALTERNATOR, WATER PUMP, AND STUFF LIKE THAT, BUT THE SUPERCHARGER GETS ITS OWN EIGHT RIB BELT. THIS IS GONNA MAKE SURE IT GETS ALL THE GRIP THAT IT NEEDS, AND WHEN WE HAMMER IT TO THE FLOOR WE WON'T GET ANY BELT SLIPPAGE. NEXT TO GO ON IS THE NEW ALTERNATOR THAT WE GRABBED FROM SUMMIT RACING. WE CHOSE ONE IN A POLISHED FINISH TO MATCH OUR BRACKETS, AND JUST A COUPLE OF BOLTS SECURE IT IN PLACE. YOU CAN OBVIOUSLY SEE THAT THE PULLEY THAT'S MOUNTED ON THE ALTERNATOR RIGHT NOW DOES NOT LINE UP WITH OUR NEW ACCESSORY DRIVE SYSTEM. SO I'M GONNA GET THIS ONE YANKED OFF. LUCKILY FOR US PROCHARGER OFFERS A PULLEY WITH THIS SETUP THAT HAS THE CORRECT OFFSET. SO WE KNOW OUR BELT WILL LINE UP PERFECTLY. USING OUR HALF INCH DRIVE IMPACT, WE CAN LOCK IT DOWN.
(NARRATOR)>> STAY WITH US, LT SHOWS HOW TO REFRESH AN OLD AND WARN OUT REAR END.
(LT)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. THE VERY FIRST STEP TO REBUILDING THIS NINE INCH IS ACTUALLY DRIVING THESE BEARING RACES OUT OF THE PINION SUPPORT, AND WE'LL ACCOMPLISH THAT WITH A SIMPLE PUNCH AND A FEW BLOWS OF THE HAMMER. THIS IS THE ONE. NEW RACES ARE DRIVEN BACK IN WITH A SOFT FACED DRIVER AS TO NOT DAMAGE THE PARTS. NEXT UP WE'LL MOVE TO THE PRESS AND INSTALL THE FIRST PINION BEARING. YOU'LL NOTICE THERE IS NO SHIM ON THE NINE INCH, AND THEN IT'S BACK TO THE TABLE. ALL RIGHT, WITH THE FIRST PINION BEARING ON WE'RE GONNA PUT ON THE CRUSH COLLAR, GONNA INSTALL THE PINION SUPPORT, AND WE'RE GONNA SLIDE ON THE SECOND PINION BEARING. NOW WE HAVE TO PRESS IT DOWN INTO PLACE. SO WE'RE GONNA USE THIS PIPE. THEN THE FRONT SEAL IS DRIVEN INTO PLACE, THIS TIME USING A SCRAP PIECE OF AXLE TUBE. THE OLD YOKE GOES BACK ON, FOLLOWED BY THE PINION NUT. NEXT WE'LL MOVE ONTO THE VICE TO SET BEARING PRELOAD. I'M USING A PINION HOLDING TOOL AND A BREAKER BAR TO SLOWLY TIGHTEN THE NUT, WHICH COMPRESSES THE CRUSH SLEEVE UNTIL THE DESIRED PRELOAD IS REACHED. WITH NEW BEARINGS AND A SEAL IN PLACE I'M HAPPY WITH 30 INCH POUNDS. NEXT WE'LL HEAD BACK TO THE SHOP PRESS AND INSTALL THE CARRIER BEARINGS ONTO OUR NEW TRUE TRACK. BACK AT THE TABLE WE'LL START TO PULL THE RING GEAR ONTO THE CARRIER WITH SOME LONG BOLTS. BACK THEM OUT, AND INSTALL 10 NEW BOLTS WITH BLUE THREAD LOCKER. FIRST I'LL RUN THEM DOWN WITH AN IMPACT GUN, AND FINALLY TORQUE THEM TO SPEC IN AN ALTERNATING PATTERN. I'LL THROW IN THE ORIGINAL SHIM FOR NOW. THE PINION SUPPORT GOES IN, AND I'LL TIGHTEN THE BOLTS. THEN FLIP THE HOUSING. THE BEARING RACES GO ON THE CARRIER AND IT IS SET INTO THE THIRD MEMBER. THE BEARING CAPS ARE THREADED ON, AND THE SIDE ADJUSTORS ARE SCREWED IN, AND I'LL ROUGH IN THE BACKLASH. I'LL CLAMP THE THIRD MEMBER IN A VICE SO WE CAN RUN A PATTERN CHECK. A SPECIAL WAXY PAINT IS BRUSHED ONTO EACH SIDE OF A FEW TEETH, AND I'LL TURN THE RING GEAR BACK AND FORTH A FEW TIMES. THE PAINT WILL RUB OFF WHERE EACH OF THE GEARS TOUCH. WELL THE INITIAL PATTERN CHECK IS ACTUALLY PRETTY CLOSE. NOT PERFECT, BUT WE CAN WORK WITH IT. NOW THERE ARE TWO ADJUSTMENTS THAT YOU'RE GONNA HAVE TO MAKE TO CENTER THAT PATTERN PERFECTLY IN THE RING GEAR. NOW BACKLASH IS GONNA MOVE IT ON AN AXIS RUNNING THROUGH THE CENTER OF THE CARRIER, AND THE PINION DEPTH IS GONNA MOVE THE PATTERN CLOSER TO OR FARTHER AWAY FROM THE ROOT OF THE GEAR. ON OURS THE PATTERN IS MUCH CLOSER TO THE TOP OF THE TOOTH THAT IT IS DOWN TO THE ROOT. SO WE NEED TO SHIFT THAT PATTERN DOWN HERE. TO ACCOMPLISH THAT WE NEED TO PUSH THE PINION CLOSER TO THE RING GEAR, AND ON A FORD NINE INCH WE NEED A THINNER SHIM. ALL IT TAKES IS A FEW MINUTES TO PULL THE PINION SUPPORT. LET'S SEE, THE ORIGINAL SHIM WAS 25. SO I WANT TO TAKE ABOUT 10 OFF OF THAT. THAT'S 20, 15, THAT'S WHAT WE'LL GO WITH. A QUICK TOUCH UP OF THE PAINT AND WE'LL RUN ANOTHER CHECK. YEAH, THAT'S GETTING MORE WHERE I WANT IT. TAKE MAY JUST A LITTLE MORE OUT OF IT. THIS TIME I'LL THROW IN A 10 THOUSANDTHS SHIM AND I'M HAPPY WITH THE RESULT. GOT PINION DEPTH WHERE I WANT IT. YEAH, THAT'S WAY TOO TIGHT. WE'VE GOT LESS THAN A THOUSANDTH OF BACKLASH. NOW I'M LOOKING FOR ABOUT FIVE TO SEVEN. LUCKILY THAT'S VERY EASY TO FIX ON A NINE INCH. I HAVE TO INCREASE THE BACKLASH BY SHIFTING THE CARRIER AWAY FROM THE PINION GEAR. SO ALL I HAVE TO DO IS LOOSEN UP THIS SIDE ADJUSTOR AND TIGHTEN THIS ONE, AND WE SHOULD BE WITHIN SPEC.
RIGHT ON THE MONEY! LASTLY I'LL INSTALL THE TABS THAT LOCK THE SIDE ADJUSTORS IN PLACE, AND THIS NINE INCH IS DONE.
(NARRATOR)>> OUR "KLASSY KFIVE" IS GROWING SOME MUSCLE, STAY WITH US!
(LT)>> OFTEN WHEN YOU'RE BUILDING A PROJECT VEHICLE THERE ARE SOME SPECIALTY TOOLS THAT YOU'RE GONNA NEED TO PROPERLY COMPLETE THE JOB, AND MORE OFTEN THAN NOT THOSE TOOLS ARE GONNA TAKE A MEASUREMENT OF SOME KIND. WHETHER IT'S A DISTANCE, A LENGTH, OR AN AMOUNT OF TORQUE, AND YOU CAN PROBABLY GUESS, YOU NEED TO BE A LITTLE BIT MORE ACCURATE THAN A STANDARD TAPE MEASURE. SO TODAY I'M GONNA GO OVER WHAT I CONSIDER TO BE THE MOST ESSENTIAL MEASURING TOOLS THAT EVERYBODY SHOULD HAVE IN THEIR TOOL BOX, AND WE'LL SHOW YOU HOW THEY WORK. THE MOST BASIC MEASURING TOOL IS THE CALIPER. NOW THEY COME IN DIAL VERSIONS, DIGITAL, AND THERE ARE A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT SPECIALTY TYPES, AND THEY'RE PRETTY SIMPLE TO USE. JUST TAKE THE PART THAT YOU WANT TO MEASURE, OPEN UP THE JAWS, STICK IT INSIDE, AND CLOSE IT, AND IT'S ACTUALLY REALLY EASY TO READ THE MEASUREMENT SCALE. WE'LL START WITH THE FIRST BIGGEST NUMBER ON THE RULER, IN THIS CASE A ONE. THE NEXT BIGGEST IS A SIX, AND THEN WE HOP OVER TO THE DIAL AND WE HAVE 25. THAT GIVES US A FINAL MEASUREMENT OF ONE POINT SIXTWOFIVE INCHES. THIS PARTICULAR SET OF CALIPERS WILL ACTUALLY MEASURE IN BOTH MILLIMETERS AND IN INCHES, AND THERE ARE FOUR DIFFERENT MEASUREMENTS THAT IT WILL ACTUALLY TAKE. THE FIRST AND MOST COMMON IS A BASIC OUTSIDE MEASUREMENT, BUT THE JAWS ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE CAN TAKE AN INSIDE DIMENSION. NOW ADDITIONALLY THIS PART THAT STICKS OUT ON THE BACK, YOU CAN USE TO MEASURE THE DEPTH OF A HOLE, BUT THERE'S ONE LAST MEASUREMENT IT CAN TAKE. THIS PART ON THE BACK IS GREAT FOR MEASURING THE DISTANCE OF A STEPPED SURFACE. A DIAL INDICATOR IS ANOTHER VERY USEFUL TOOL YOU SHOULD KEEP AROUND THE SHOP. NOW TYPICALLY I USE IT TO CHECK BACKLASH ON A RING AND PINION SET OR END PLAY ON A CRANK SHAFT. NOW THERE'S A SMALL TIP OF A NEEDLE YOU PUT ON YOUR WORK SURFACE, AND THE TWO DIALS TOGETHER WILL TELL YOU EXACTLY WHAT DIMENSIONS YOU'RE AFTER, BUT YOU CAN ALSO USE THIS TO CHECK HOW ROUND SOMETHING IS. NOW THERE'S A MAGNETIC BASE, WHICH YOU CAN SWITCH ON OR OFF AND SECURELY ATTACH IT TO YOUR WORK SURFACE, AND THE ADJUSTABLE ARM LET'S YOU PRECISELY PLACE THE TIP OF THE NEEDLE WHERE YOU WANT IT. NOW BY SPINNING THIS SMALL PIECE OF PIPE WE CAN SEE THAT THERE'S ABOUT 10 THOUSANDTHS OF RUNOUT, WHICH MEANS IT'S NOT ROUND. THERE ARE TWO TYPES OF TORQUE WRENCHES THAT I LIKE TO KEEP AROUND THE SHOP. THE CLICKER STYLE AND THE DIAL. NOW YOU'VE SEEN US USE THESE A LOT. BASICALLY YOU TURN THE HANDLE UNTIL YOU REACH THE DESIRED TORQUE SETTING. YOU THROW ON YOUR SOCKET, AND YOU TIGHT IT, AND WHENEVER YOU HEAR THAT DISTINCTIVE CLICK THAT'S HOW YOU KNOW YOU'VE GOT TIGHT ENOUGH. NOW THEY MAKE THESE IN A WIDE RANGE OF SIZES, EVEN DOWN TO THIS LITTLE BABY QUARTER INCH GUY. NOW THE DIAL TYPE IS A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENT. BASICALLY IT TELLS YOU HOW MUCH TORQUE YOU'RE APPLYING AT THAT EXACT MOMENT IN TIME. AND THE ORANGE NEEDLE THERE, THAT WILL RECORD THE MAXIMUM VALUE THAT YOU'VE REACHED. THESE ARE ESPECIALLY USEFUL WHEN YOU'RE SETTING BEARING PRELOAD. NOW EVERY TOOL HERE DOES A SPECIFIC JOB, AND SOME DO COST MORE THAN OTHERS, BUT IF YOU'RE GOING TO BUILD A PROJECT VEHICLE THEN YOU'VE GOT TO INVEST IN SOME SPECIALTY TOOLS.
(JEREMY)>> WE'RE MOVING RIGHT ALONG ON BOTH OF OUR PROJECTS, AND AS FAR AS THE KFIVE GOES WE'RE GETTING REALLY CLOSE TO BOLTING ON SOME OF THE FUN STUFF. WE'RE STARTING BY INSTALLING THE BRACKET THAT WILL HOLD THE SUPERCHARGER IN PLACE. USING ALL THE SPACERS SENT WITH THE KIT, THE BRACKET INSTALLS ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE HEAD USING THREE SEVENSIXTEENTH INCH BOLTS. NEXT UP IS THE DONE SUPERCHARGER THAT BOLTS RIGHT INTO PLACE, AND WE'RE MAKING SURE TO INSTALL IT WITH THE LABEL ON THE SUPERCHARGER FACING UP. THEN WE'LL ADD ONE SIX OUNCE BOTTLE OF OIL SENT WITH THE SUPERCHARGER. ONE ADVANTAGE TO THESE SETUPS IS THE WAY THE BRACKETS AND THE SUPERCHARGERS ARE DESIGNED BECAUSE A LOT OF PROCHARGER HEAD UNITS ARE INTERCHANGEABLE. SO LET'S SAY DOWN THE ROAD YOU WANT TO BUILD YOUR ENGINE TO HANDLE A LITTLE MORE BOOST. WELL THIS BRACKET WILL HOLD UP TO AN FTWO SUPERCHARGER, WHICH CAN SUPPORT 1,600 HORSEPOWER. NOW WITH OUR SETUP WE COULD HAVE WENT WITH THE SMALLER PONE AND STILL MET OUR HORSEPOWER GOALS, BUT REMEMBER, THE DONE WILL SUPPORT UP TO 925 HORSES. SO THIS THING WON'T EVEN HAVE TO WORK HARD TO MEET THE GOALS WE'RE AFTER. PLUS THAT LEAVES US PLENTY OF ROOM IF WE WANT TO TURN IT UP A LITTLE BIT. NOW ANOTHER GREAT THING ABOUT A CENTRIFUGAL SUPERCHARGER, SAY OVER LIKE A ROOTS STYLE, IS THEY DON'T CREATE A TON OF HEAT. SO WITH OUR SETUP WE WON'T HAVE TO RUN AN INTERCOOLER. NEXT WE CAN START RUNNING THE PLUMBING FROM THE SUPERCHARGER UP TO THE CAR. WE CAN FIRST INSTALL THE TUBE THAT WILL HOLD THE BYPASS VALVE ONTO THE SUPERCHARGER. THEN THE RUBBER SLEEVE GOES ONTO THE CARBURETOR HAT. THEN THE HAT WILL ATTACH TO THE TUBE AND IT CAN SIT ON THE CARB. NOW WE'RE UNSURE AT THIS POINT IF WE WANT TO RUN A CARBURETOR OR SOME TYPE OF FUEL INJECTION SYSTEM, BUT IF WE DECIDE TO GO WITH A MULTI PORT OR A THROTTLE BODY THIS PLUMBING SETUP WILL WORK WITH EITHER OF THOSE. NOW THIS IS A NOT A BLOW THROUGH CARBURETOR, BUT NEXT TIME WE MAY YANK THIS THING OFF AND I'LL SHOW YOU GUYS HOW TO CONVERT IT INTO ONE. NOW I'VE STILL GOT QUITE A FEW ODD AND ENDS LEFT TO DO ON THIS. SO I'M GONNA KEEP GOING!
(LT)>> THERE IS ONE LAST CHANGE WE'RE GOING TO MAKE ON OUR NINE INCH. I ORDERED A 31 SPLINE TRUE TRACK BUT OUR AXLES WERE ORIGINALLY A 28. SO I WENT TO SUMMIT RACING AND GRABBED A PAIR OF NEW AXLE SHAFTS THAT ARE A 31 SPLINE TO MATCH OUR CARRIER. NOW WE'RE GONNA BE PUMPING A LOT MORE POWER THROUGH THIS REAR END. SO IT'S A MUCH NEEDED UPGRADE.
(JEREMY)>> NOW IF YOU GUYS REMEMBER, THE F-100 IS A BUDGET BUILD. SO WHERE DO WE STAND AFTER TODAY?
(LT)>> WELL WE SPENT $960 BUCKS ON ALL THE REAR END PARTS, AND PREVIOUSLY WE SPENT $1,440 ON ALL THE SUSPENSION AND THE SWAY BARS. ALL IN, $2,400 BUCKS THAT'LL DEFINITELY IMPROVE HOW THAT TRUCK PERFORMS.
(JEREMY)>> THAT'S NOT TOO BAD, AND AS FAR AS THE KFIVE GOES I'VE STILL GOT TO THROW ON A COUPLE OF BELTS, FINISH UP SOME CLAMPS, BUT HEY, WE'RE GETTING CLOSE. NEXT TIME WE HOPE TO PAINT IT AND GET THIS THING ASSEMBLED, BUT TO CHECK OUT MORE ON OUR BUILDS GO TO POWERNATION TV DOT COM.
(LT)>> DID YOU GROW?
(JEREMY)>> A LITTLE BIT.
(LT)>> I LIKE IT!
