Quick Fixes to Help Pass an Emissions Test

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY WE'RE ON AN EMISSIONS MISSION WITH QUICK FIXES ON HOW TO PASS A SNIFF TEST. PLUS HOW TO BRING OUT THE OLD IN A NEW PAINT JOB. THAT AND MORE TODAY ON TRUCK TECH.

(JEREMY)>> WE'RE GOING TO ANSWER A QUESTION THAT WE GET ASKED MORE OFTEN THAN YOU WOULD THINK, AND

WE'VE ALL DEALT WITH IT. IT HAS TO DO WITH THAT ANNOYING LIGHT THAT REARS ITS HEAD ON YOUR DASH, THE DREADED CHECK ENGINE LIGHT.

(LT)>> MANY OF US LIVE IN AREAS THAT REQUIRE ANNUAL EMISSIONS INSPECTIONS, AND IF YOUR TRUCK HAS HIGHER MILES OR A MECHANICAL PROBLEM THAT HAS THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COME ON, WELL THAT USUALLY RESULTS IN AN IMMEDIATE FAILURE, BUT A LOT OF VEHICLES CAN ACTUALLY FAIL AN EMISSIONS TAIL PIPE TEST WITHOUT THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT EVEN COMING ON.

(JEREMY)>> AND WHILE MANY OF THE PROJECTS WE DO HERE ON TRUCK TECH ARE PERFORMANCE ORIENTED, WE ALWAYS STRIVE TO STAY WITHIN THE LETTER OF THE LAW WITH MODS THAT ARE 50 STATE LEGAL, BUT IF YOU HAVE FAILED AN INSPECTION WE'LL SHOW YOU A FEW THINGS, TRY TO HELP YOUR VEHICLE PASS.

(LT)>> THIS THING'S BONE STOCK.

I DON'T THINK IT'LL PASS ANYTHING.

(JEREMY)>> BORING MAN.

(LT)>> NOW THIS IS OUR TEST BED, A 2001 DODGE RAM 1,500,

AND WE KNOW IT FAILED ITS EMISSIONS TEST SOME 18 MONTHS AGO. SO WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU WHAT WE HAVE TO DO TO TAKE CARE OF THAT. SO WE DROVE IT DOWN TO A LOCAL REPAIR SHOP TO GET A BASELINE READING ON THE TAIL PIPE TO GO FROM THERE. THEN WE'LL BRING IT BACK TO THE SHOP AND START REPLACING PARTS TO GET THIS THING RUNNING A LITTLE BIT CLEANER.

(JEREMY)>> THIS IS GARY DAVIS, OWNER OF DAVIS AUTOMOTIVE. THANKS FOR HAVING US IN YOUR SHOP. HOW OFTEN DO YOU TYPICALLY HAVE CUSTOMERS COME IN THAT HAVE FAILED THE REQUIRED EMISSIONS TEST, AND NOT ONLY THAT WHAT ARE USUALLY THE MOST TYPICAL CAUSES OF FAILURE.

(GARY)>> WE HAVE QUITE A BIG NUMBER OF EMISSIONS FAILURES THAT REQUIRE DIFFERENT TYPES OF DIAGNOSTICS, DIFFERENT TYPES OF REPAIRS. TODAY'S VEHICLES SEEM TO BE MORE COMPLEX THAN THEY EVER HAVE. THEY'VE EVOLVED INTO EMISSIONS STANDARDS BEING A LOT TIGHTER THAN THEY EVER HAVE BEEN. IN THE NEWER MODELS REQUIRES A LOT OF DIFFERENT TYPE OF EQUIPMENT TO BE ABLE TO DIAGNOSE IT.

(JEREMY)>> SO USUALLY CUSTOMERS COME IN, THEY'VE FAILED, YOU CHECK IT WITH YOUR MACHINE. YOU GUYS DO THE REPAIR WORK, CHECK IT AGAIN. YOU GOTTA KNOW YOUR GONNA PASS AND THEN SEND IT BACK OUT TO HAVE IT.

(GARY)>> CORRECT, WE CAN'T CERTIFY THE VEHICLE IN TENNESSEE. IT HAS TO BE CERTIFIED BY THE STATE. MORE COMMONLY ON TODAY'S LATER MODEL VEHICLES, '96 AND UP, IS THE OBD TWO SYSTEMS, WHICH ARE COMPUTER CONTROLLED. THE COMPUTER ON THE VEHICLE ACTUALLY MONITORS AND PASSES THE EMISSION COMPONENTS ON THE CAR.

(JEREMY)>> RIGHT, WELL ALRIGHT MAN, LET'S CHECK OUT YOUR MACHINE.

(GARY)>> ALRIGHT!

(JEREMY)>> IT'S BEEN AROUND HERE FOR A WHILE HUH?

(GARY)>> THIS IS A DINOSAUR BUT IT'S BEEN A GOOD OLD FAITHFUL MACHINE. IT'S A FOUR GAS MADE BY SUN. WE'VE HAD THIS MACHINE ABOUT 18 YEARS.

(JEREMY)>> WELL WHAT DO YOU SAY WE MAKE A RUN?

(GARY)>> LET'S DO IT.

(JEREMY)>> I'LL GO START THE TRUCK. TO PROVIDE ACCURATE READINGS THE TRUCK MUST BE RUNNING AND UP TO TYPICAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE IN ORDER FOR THE GAS ANALYZER TO READ ACCURATELY. THEN AT IDLE GARY INSERTS THE WAND INTO THE TAIL PIPE AND WE'LL KNOW WITHIN A FEW SECONDS HOW BAD THIS TRUCK IS EMITTING HYDROCARBONS.

(GARY)>> OKAY, CLASSIC EXAMPLE OF FAIL. WE'VE GOT HC THAT IS OFF THE CHARTS HERE. THIS SHOULD BE A MAXIMUM OF 220. ACTUALLY THE CO IS WITHIN LIMITS.

SO WE'RE NOT GETTING A COMPLETE COMBUSTION IS THE REASON OUR HC IS SO HIGH. WE'VE GOT AN IGNITION PROBLEM MOST LIKELY. WE'RE NOT GETTING ENOUGH OF THE FUEL THAT'S GOING THROUGH THE ENGINE PROCESS AND COMPLETELY BURNED.

(JEREMY)>> WELL LOOKS LIKE WE'VE GOT SOME WORK CUT OUT FOR US, AND THANKS FOR GIVING ME SOME REALLY BAD NUMBERS.

(GARY)>> MY PLEASURE, GOOD LUCK.

(JEREMY)>> THANKS MAN. WE DON'T CONDONE THIS BUT YOU WANT TO KNOW HOW THE OWNER WAS ABLE DRIVE AROUND FOR ABOUT A YEAR AND A HALF WITH EXPIRED TAGS?

(LT)>> HOW'S THAT?

(JEREMY)>> DROP THE TAILGATE.

(LT)>> IT WORKS.

(JEREMY)>> YOU CAN'T SEE IT.

(LT)>> THE FIRST STEP TO SOLVING OUR PROBLEM IS FINDING OUT THE CAUSE OF OUR CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, AND THAT MEANS WE'LL NEED A CODE READER OF SORTS. NOW THERE'S MANY DIFFERENT OPTIONS OUT THERE ON THE MARKET AND SOME ARE VERY AFFORDABLE. HECK THERE'S EVEN SOME OUT THERE THAT'LL PAIR UP WITH YOUR SMART PHONE. NOW IN ALL VEHICLES SOLD IN THE UNITED STATES AFTER 1996 THERE'LL BE AN OBD TWO PORT LOCATED UNDERNEATH THE DASH BOARD. USUALLY SOMEWHERE AROUND THE STEERING COLUMN, AND WE'RE GONNA FIRE UP OUR SCAN TOOL AND SEE IF WE CAN FIND THE

CAUSE OF THE PROBLEM. EVERY SCAN TOOL IS DIFFERENT BUT TYPICALLY YOU HAVE TO

INPUT YOUR TRUCK'S YEAR, MAKE, AND MODEL. ONCE IN THE ENGINE CONTROL MODULE SCREEN READ THE DTC'S. THERE IS FOUR CODES THAT CAME UP ON THIS TRUCK, AND THE FIRST TWO ARE HOPEFULLY RELATED, MAYBE TO A WIRING

PROBLEM, OR AN INJECTOR, OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT. THE INJECTOR SHUT OFF AND IT'LL CAUSE A MISFIRE. THE THIRD CODE IS FOR A LEAK IN THE EVAPORATIVE EMISSION SYSTEM. USUALLY THAT COULD BE CAUSED BY A LOOSE GAS CAP. MAYBE WE'LL GET LUCKY, WE'LL SEE. AND THE FOURTH CODE, THAT MEANS THE ENGINE IS RUNNING TOO COLD. WE'LL MAYBE CHECK THE THERMOSTAT AND SEE IF IT'S STUCK OPEN OR SOMETHING, BUT FIRST WE'RE GONNA TRACE DOWN THIS LEAK IN THE EVAPORATIVE EMISSION SYSTEM. A QUICK INSPECTION OF THE GAS CAP SHOWS IT'S ALREADY TIGHT

AND IT DOESN'T LOOK LIKE THE PROBLEM IS HERE. SO WE BETTER KEEP LOOKING. THE EVAPORATIVE EMISSION SYSTEM ON THIS TRUCK STARTS AT

THE ENGINE AND IT WORKS IT'S WAY ALL THE WAY BACK TO THE FUEL TANK, AND THE PURPOSE IS TO REMOVE EXCESS FUEL VAPOR FROM THE TANK SO IT DOESN'T ESCAPE TO THE ATMOSPHERE

AND CAUSE POLLUTION.

NOW THERE'S A LOT OF COMPONENTS INVOLVED IN THE SYSTEM, BUT MOST OF THEM ARE CONNECTED BY A RUBBER HOSE, AND ON THIS TRUCK WELL, IT'S 15 YEARS OLD.

SO THERE'S A PRETTY GOOD CHANCE A LOT OF THAT HOSE COULD BE DAMAGED. TWO MAJOR PARTS OF THE EVAP SYSTEM ARE THE PURGE SOLENOID AND THE LEAK DETECTION PUMP, AND STRAIGHT AWAY WE CAN SEE THIS HOSE GOING FORM THE PUMP TO THE TANK. IT HAS SEVERAL CRACKS ON IT AND IT'S SPLIT DOWN THE BACK. SO THAT'S DEFINITELY GONNA CAUSE A LEAK. SO WE'LL START BY REPLACING THIS HOSE.

THE OLD HOSE IS HELD TOGETHER WITH SEVERAL OTHERS. SO I'LL CUT THE TAPE AND FOLLOW THE HOSE DOWN TO ITS CONNECTION TO THE PLASTIC TUBE THAT RUNS ALL THE WAY TO THE TANK.

SLIDE ON THE NEW HOSE, ZIP TIE IT IN PLACE, AND TRIM TO PROPER LENGTH. WITH THE TRUCK UP IN THE AIR, I'LL FOLLOW THE PLASTIC TUBE DOWN THE FRAME RAIL TO MAKE SURE THERE ARE NO OTHER BAD SPOTS. AND SURE ENOUGH, ON TOP OF THE CHARCOAL CANISTER WE FOUND MORE CRACKS. TO MAKE THE REPAIR THE CANISTER COMES OFF AND IT'S A SIMPLE MATTER OF REPLACING THE DRY ROTTED HOSE WITH A NEW ONE. MAKE SURE YOU BUY A HOSE THAT'S RATED FOR FUEL VAPOR.

(NARRATOR)>> LATER, WHY ARE THE GUYS SANDING THROUGH A BRAND NEW PAINT JOB.

(LT)>> WITH OUR LEAKY EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS SYSTEM TAKEN CARE OF THAT'S ONE OF THE FOUR CODES

CHECKED OFF OUR LIST. SO NEXT WE'LL TURN OUR ATTENTION TO THE ENGINE RUNNING TOO COLD. GASOLINE ENGINES ARE MOST EFFICIENT AT THEIR FULL OPERATING TEMPERATURE, WHICH IS USUALLY AROUND 200 DEGREES FAHRENHEIT. SO YOUR COMPUTER WILL KEEP AN EYE ON THIS AND LET YOU KNOW IF SOMETHING'S UP BY TURNING ON THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT.

NOW THE COLDER YOUR ENGINE RUNS, THE MORE FUEL IT'S GOING TO USE. SO BEING AT FULL TEMPERATURE IS PRETTY CRITICAL, BOTH IN TERMS OF FUEL MILEAGE AND EMISSIONS OUTPUT. THE LIKELY CULPRIT IS THE THERMOSTAT IS STUCK OPEN. IT'S LETTING TOO MUCH COOLANT ESCAPE THE ENGINE TOO QUICKLY,

AND IT PULLS AWAY TOO MUCH HEAT. WE GRABBED THE NEW ONE AND WE'LL GET THIS THING SWAPPED OUT IN NO TIME. THERE'S A COUPLE OF BRACKETS TO MOVE OUT OF THE WAY TO GAIN ACCESS TO THE WATER NECK. TWO BOLTS HOLD IT DOWN AND ONCE IT'S REMOVED THE

THERMOSTAT CAN BE PULLED OUT AND THE OLD GASKETS CLEANED UP. THE NEW THERMOSTAT DROPS RIGHT INTO PLACE ALONG WITH A NEW GASKET. PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER AND TOP IT OFF WITH COOLANT. WELL THAT'S TWO CODES DOWN AND TWO TO GO, BUT CHECK OUT WHAT I FOUND. THE CONNECTOR FOR FUEL INJECTOR NUMBER THREE WAS ACTUALLY DISCONNECTED. SO I SPOKE WITH THE OWNER OF THE TRUCK AND IT TURNS OUT RIGHT BEFORE WE TOOK THE TRUCK IN TO DO OUR TESTING HE HAD THE ENGINE BAY DETAILED, AND LIKELY DURING THE CLEANING PROCESS THE CONNECTOR JUST BECAME DISLODGED. REALLY NOT A BIG DEAL, BUT IT WAS THE CAUSE OF BOTH OF THOSE DTC'S. A FUEL INJECTOR BEING DISCONNECTED WILL CAUSE THE MISFIRE CODE AND IT WILL ALSO CAUSE THE OPEN CIRCUIT CODE. SO WE GOT LUCKY. IT'LL ACTUALLY ALSO CAUSE THE HIGHER HYDROCARBON OUTPUT AT THE TAIL PIPE. PLUG THAT BOY BACK IN. NOW WE CAN GO AHEAD AND CLEAR THOSE FOUR TROUBLE CODES, BUT WE'RE NOT DONE WITH THIS TRUCK YET. BEFORE WE TAKE OUR TRUCK OUT FOR A TEST DRIVE WE FIGURED THIS WOULD BE THE PERFECT OPPORTUNITY TO ADDRESS SOME OF THOSE REGULAR MAINTENANCE ITEMS THAT OFTEN GET NEGLECTED, AND ALL THE PARTS YOU SEE HERE WE PICKED UP FROM ROCK AUTO DOT COM. OUR TRUCK HAS OVER 200,000 MILES ON IT, AND WE DON'T KNOW WHEN THE SPARK PLUGS WERE REPLACED LAST. SO WE FIGURED THIS WOULD BE A PERFECT OPPORTUNITY TO THROW IN A NEW SET, AND WE'LL ROUND OUT THE IGNITION SYSTEM WITH A NEW DISTRIBUTOR CAP AND ROTOR. AN AIR FILTER IS ONE OF THOSE ITEMS THAT PEOPLE OFTEN NEGLECT TO REPLACE BUT IT'S SUPER EASY AND

IT'S REALLY INEXPENSIVE. SO WE'RE GONNA THROW ONE OF THOSE IN ALONG WITH A NEW PCV VALVE. AND TO ROUND OUT OUR HIGH MILE TRUCK WE'LL THROW IN A PAIR OF OXYGEN SENSOR, BUT WHAT EXACTLY DO THEY DO?

YOUR ENGINE'S COMPUTER HAS BEEN CALIBRATED BY THE FACTORY TO DELIVER A VERY PRECISE FUEL MIXTURE. NOW THE IDEAL RATIO FOR COMBUSTION OF A GAS IS KNOWN AS STOICHIOMETRY, AND FOR GASOLINE FUEL WITH ZERO PERCENT ETHANOL THAT RATIO IS 14.7 PARTS AIR TO ONE PART FUEL. NOW YOUR ENGINE WILL RUN PRETTY CLOSE TO THIS RIGHT OUT OF THE BOX, BUT GIVEN VARIATIONS IN ALTITUDE, DENSITY, AND TEMPERATURE THE VARIATION WILL BE SLIGHT. IT WON'T BE EXACTLY SPOT ON. SO OXYGEN SENSORS ARE INSTALLED IN THE EXHAUST STREAM AND THEY'LL REPORT BACK TO THE COMPUTER WHETHER THAT RATIO IS RICH OR LEAN OF ITS TARGET.

THE COMPUTER THEN USES THAT INFORMATION TO MAKE ADJUSTMENTS TO THE FUELING, AND THOSE ARE KNOWN AS FUEL TRIMS. THE PRIMARY OXYGEN SENSOR IS THE MOST IMPORTANT. IT DIRECTLY CONTROLS THE FUEL TRIMS. SO HAVING A NEW ONE WILL MAKE SURE YOUR MIXTURE IS SPOT ON. THE SECONDARY OTWO SENSOR IS IMPORTANT, BUT IT HAS NO IMPACT ON ENGINE FUELING. IT'S SIMPLY THERE TO MONITOR THE PERFORMANCE OF THE CATALYTIC CONVERTER. NOW I CAN GO AHEAD AND DO A QUICK OIL AND FILTER CHANGE USING ROYAL PURPLE SYNTHETIC HIGH PERFORMANCE MOTOR OIL. THIS WILL PROVIDE SUPERIOR WEAR PROTECTION AND INCREASED ENGINE PERFORMANCE.

(NARRATOR)>> NEXT, HOW TO CREATE A FAUXTINA PAINT JOB.

(JEREMY)>> NOW I'VE BEEN TEASING YOU GUYS FOR A LITTLE WHILE NOW ABOUT THE PATINA PAINT JOB I'VE HAD PLANNED FOR THE C-10, AND THE TIME IS FINALLY HERE TO LAY IT ALL DOWN. NOW ALL THE BODY PANELS WERE IN PRETTY DECENT SHAPE, AND AFTER DOING A LITTLE DIGGING ON THE CAB I FOUND THAT THE TRUCK HAD ONLY BEEN PAINTED ONE TIME THROUGH THE YEARS. THAT'S GOOD FOR US BECAUSE IT MEANS WE DIDN'T HAVE TO STRIP ANYTHING DOWN TO BARE METAL. NOW FOR THE PATINA I WANT THE TRUCK TO APPEAR AUTHENTIC, LIKE IT'S STILL WEARING IT'S FACTORY PAINT THAT'S JUST BEEN BEAT DOWN BY THE SUN, AND I'LL SHOW YOU GUYS STEP BY STEP HOW TO ACCOMPLISH THIS. NOW I WENT AHEAD AND SCUFFED ALL THE PANELS UP AND LAID DOWN THIS REDBROWN PRIMER, WHICH IS CLOSE TO WHAT THE TRUCK WOULD HAVE COME WITH FROM THE FACTORY.

NOW WE CAN GET STARTED WITH BASE COAT. SUMMIT RACING FLAME RED BASE MIXES TWO TO ONE WITH REDUCER, AND TAKES A CAP FULL OF CLEAR COAT ACTIVATOR FOR EVERY 32 OUNCES MIXED. I'LL DO A QUICK CHECK ON THE WAY AND MAKE SURE THE GUN IS ALL SET UP.

NOW THIS PARTICULAR BASE SPRAYS REALLY NICE AT AROUND 30 PSI, AND SINCE I PLAN ON SANDING THROUGH A LOT OF THIS NEW BASE COAT FOR THE LOOK WE'RE GOING FOR I'M ONLY GOING TO LAY DOWN TWO COATS, KEEPING IT THIN.

SO I'LL MOVE A LITTLE QUICKER THAN NORMAL, AND WHERE THE SUN WOULD HAVE BAKED ON THIS TRUCK THE MOST I'LL BARELY COVER THE TOP OF THE BED RAILS, AND OF COURSE THE HOOD SINCE THESE AREAS WILL APPEAR MOST WEATHER BEATEN. OKAY WE'VE GOT ONE COAT DOWN AND I'M GONNA TRY SOMETHING A LITTLE DIFFERENT ON THE HOOD. NOW WHEN THE TRUCK WAS PAINTED AT THE FACTORY THEY USUALLY USE LIKE A 50 PERCENT OVERLAP, CONSISTENT PASSES. WELL OBVIOUSLY WHEN YOU OVERLAP PAINT SOME AREAS WILL BE THICKER THAN OTHERS. SO AS THE YEARS GO BY AND THE SUN BEATS DOWN ON THE HOOD IT'S GONNA EAT AWAY THE LIGHTER SPOTS FIRST, LEAVING A STREAKINESS. I'M GONNA MIMIC THAT ON THIS HOOD.

I'VE LET THE BASE COAT SIT FOR A FEW HOURS. SO WE'RE READY TO START SANDING ON IT. NOW RIGHT OUT OF THE GUN WHERE I KEPT IT LIGHT WE'VE ALREADY GOT A PRETTY COOL PATINA GOING BUT I WANT TO TAKE IT A LITTLE BIT FURTHER.

NOW WHEN I DO THESE TYPES OF PAINT JOBS TO GET THIS EFFECT, THERE'S A FEW STEPS THAT I GO THROUGH. I'LL START OFF WITH 400 GRIT PAPER, SWAP TO SIX, AND THEN I FINISH OFF WITH 800 GRIT. SO GO AHEAD AND GET STARTED WITH THE 400 GRIT AND A LITTLE BIT OF WATER.

I LIKE TO USE A SOFT BLOCK HITTING ALL OF THE PLACES THE SUN WOULD HAVE BEAT DOWN ON THE TRUCK, AND IF ANY OF YOU GUYS HAVE EVER SANDED ON BASE COAT YOU KNOW IT WILL CLOG UP YOUR SAND PAPER PRETTY EASILY.

SO A GOOD TIP WHEN DOING THIS IS ADD A COUPLE OF DROPS OF SOAP TO YOUR WATER. IT WILL HELP SAND A LITTLE EASIER AND KEEP YOUR SAND PAPER CLOG FREE, AND I'M SANDING IN A SWEEPING MOTION

THE LENGTH OF THE PANEL.

I'M NOT USING THE COMMON XPATTERN LIKE YOU'RE PROBABLY USED TO HEARING ME TALK ABOUT. AFTER ALL WE'RE NOT GOING FOR PERFECTION HERE. NOW WE CAN GO AHEAD AND LOSE THE BLOCK, SWAP OVER TO 600 GRIT, AND THERE'S NO RULES FOR WHAT YOU CAN DO HERE. THERE'S MANY WAYS TO ACCOMPLISH THIS. IT'S JUST WHATEVER YOU'RE LOOKING FOR.

(LT)>> BUT YOU'RE TELLING ME THAT IF I SEE BARE METAL I'VE GOT TOO FAR?

(JEREMY)>> DON'T GO TO BARE METAL. WELL YOU KNOW WHAT, I GUESS IF YOU DO GO TO BARE METAL, REAL PATINA THEN RIGHT?

(LT)>> HOW HARD IS THIS TO SWAB IN?

(JEREMY)>> WE'LL JUST LET IT RUST OVER. I'LL TELL YOU WHAT, THIS IS MY FAVORITE TYPE OF PAINT JOB. I DON'T HAVE TO DO ANY BODY WORK. THIS IS PRETTY SIMPLE TO DO. GO ONLINE AND LOOK UP SOME VINTAGE ORIGINAL TRUCKS AND SEE HOW THEY'VE AGED. YOU'LL SEE THAT THERE ARE A LOT OF COMMON AREAS ON THESE TRUCKS THAT ARE FADED DOWN TO PRIMER, AND YOU CAN TRY TO MIMIC THAT LOOK OR JUST DO WHATEVER LOOKS COOL TO YOU.

(NARRATOR)>> WILL OUR DODGE PASS EMISSIONS? FIND OUT NEXT.

(JEREMY)>> WE'RE BACK ON TRUCK TECH IN THE HOME STRETCH COMPLETING A FAUXTINA PAINT JOB ON OUR C-10. I'LL SWAP TO 800 GRIT AND GO BACK OVER THE AREAS WHERE WE GOT DOWN TO PRIMER.

OF COURSE WE'RE FAKING 30 YEARS OF SUN WEAR. WE JUST DON'T WANT IT TO LOOK FAKE. I THINK I WOULD REFER TO THIS PAINT JOB AS A CALIFORNIA PATINA. A TRUCK WITH NO RUST, IT'S BEEN BEAT UP BY THE SUN A LITTLE BIT, ALWAYS IN GOOD WEATHER.

(LT)>> WOULD YOU PREFER THE 20 OR THE 30 YEAR VINTAGE THOUGH? I PREFER THE 30 YEAR MYSELF.

(JEREMY)>> WE'LL GO WITH 30 YEAR.

(LT)>> IT'S A GOOD VINTAGE.

(JEREMY)>> I'M USING THE ORIGINAL PRIMER COLOR UNDERNEATH AND THE FLAME RED BASE COAT TO AGE THIS TRUCK AS IF IT HAD JUST BEEN PAINTED ONE TIME. WHAT IF YOUR TRUCK ALREADY HAS REALLY NICE PAINT? IT'S GOOD AND STRAIGHT, AND IT'S THE COLOR YOU WANT. WELL YOU DON'T WANT TO TAKE THE TIME AND SAND THE WHOLE TRUCK DOWN, AND PUT IT ALL IN RED PRIMER LIKE I DID.

THERE'S AN EASIER WAY TO DO IT AND I'LL SHOW YOU HOW ON THIS FENDER. WITH THE PANEL READY, I'LL RATTLE CAN A COUPLE OF COATS

OF RED PRIMER OVER THE AREAS YOU KNOW THE SUN WOULD HAVE EATEN UP THE PAINT. ONCE CURED USE THE SAME SANDING STEPS I SHOWED YOU WITH THE OTHER METHOD. BY WET SANDING WITH 400, THEN 600, AND FINISH WITH 800,

AND THERE YOU GO. JUST LIKE THAT YOU HAVE THE SAME LOOK JUST REVERSED, BUT NO ONE WILL EVER KNOW THE DIFFERENCE.

WITH EVERYTHING BACK IN THE BOOTH WE'RE READY FOR CLEAR. I'M USING SUMMIT RACING'S HOT ROD SATIN CLEAR.

IT MIXES FOUR TO ONE WITH AN ACTIVATOR. NOW THIS CLEAR WILL KEEP WITH THE AUTHENTIC LOOK WE'RE TRYING TO ACHIEVE.

IT WILL ALSO GIVE THE TRUCK GOOD UV PROTECTION. SO WE'RE ABLE TO HAVE THAT OLD LOOK BUT WITH A VERY DURABLE FINISH. I'LL FINISH UP BY LAYING DOWN THREE COATS.

(LT)>> BEFORE WE SEND OUR 2001 RAM DOWN THE ROAD FOR ITS FINAL EMISSIONS TEST WE'RE GONNA POUR IN A BOTTLE OF ROYAL PURPLE MAXX CLEAN. IT'S A HIGH PERFORMANCE SYNTHETIC FUEL SYSTEM STABILIZER AND CLEANER. IT WORKS BY DEEPLY PENETRATING THE INTAKE VALVES, FUEL INJECTORS, AND COMBUSTION CHAMBERS. YOU CAN USE IT ON GAS OR DIESEL ENGINES, AND IT IMPROVES FUEL ECONOMY AN AVERAGE OF THREE POINT TWO PERCENT, WHILE AT THE SAME TIME IMPROVING HORSEPOWER, AND ONE 20 OUNCE CAN TREATS UP TO 20 GALLONS.

(JEREMY)>> IT DOESN'T MATTER HOW BIG OR SMALL YOUR CLEAN UP JOB IS AROUND YOUR GARAGE.

GUNK ALL PURPOSE CLEANER AND DEGREASER CAN HANDLE IT. IT'S HIGHLY CONCENTRATED, WHICH MEANS YOU CAN DILUTE IT

DOWN 35 TO ONE FOR LIGHT DUTY SURFACE CLEANING, OR LIKE ON

THIS FILTHY FIREWALL. SPRAY ONE TO ONE RIGHT OUT OF THE BOTTLE

FOR HEAVY DUTY JOBS. IT'S SAFE ON MOST SURFACES INCLUDING PLASTIC AND ALUMINUM, IT'S NONTOXIC, AND BIODEGRADABLE. GUNK ALL PURPOSE CLEANER AND DEGREASER IS AVAILABLE AT YOUR FAVORITE AUTOMOTIVE RETAILER.

(LT)>> HAVING A TOOL THAT CAN PERFORM MORE THAN ONE JOB SAVES YOU TIME AND MONEY. THIS IS THE MILLER MULTIMATIC 215, AN ALL IN ONE MULTI PROCESS WELDER THAT'LL DO FLUX CORE OR GAS SHIELDED MIG, ALONG WITH D/C STICK AND TIG. IT DELIVERS UP TO 230 AMPS OF POWER FOR MIG WELDING PROJECTS OR SWAP TO AN ELECTRODE HOLDER FOR STICK WELDING, OR EVEN ADD A TORCH FOR TIG WELDING. THE COLOR LCD DISPLAY PROVIDES EASY SETUP AND THIS MACHINE DELIVERS EXCELLENT ARC QUALITY AND MINIMAL SPATTER. VISIT MILLER WELDS DOT COM FOR MORE.

(JEREMY)>> LIGHTING UP THE NIGHT AROUND YOUR PICK UP OR SUV IS EASY WITH RIGID INDUSTRIES' NEW LINE OF IGNITE SERIES LED LIGHTS. 1,000 RAW LUMENS ARE PACKED INSIDE OF THIS TINY INCH AND A HALF HOUSING, AND MOUNTING IS MADE SIMPLE WITH ANY

OFF THE SHELF GO PRO MOUNT. THEY OPERATE AT SIX TO 28 VOLTS, AND DRAW LESS THAN ONE AMP PER LIGHT. VARIETIES INCLUDE FLOOD, SPOT, AND DIFFUSED BEAM PATTERNS. THEY'RE AVAILABLE IN SINGLES, DOUBLES, MOTORCYCLE KITS, AND BACK UP LIGHTS. VISIT RIGID INDUSTRIES DOT COM FOR MORE.

(LT)>> WITH THE LAST COAT OF CLEAR FINALLY DRY WE'LL ROLL THE C-10 BACK INTO THE SHOP, THROW ON THE BED, AND THROW ON

A FRONT FENDER SO WE CAN TAKE A STEP BACK AND ADMIRE OUR WORK.

(JEREMY)>> WELL WE'VE MADE A HUGE DENT IN OUR C-10.

WE'VE GOT THE TRUCK ALL PATINA'ED OUT AND IT'S LOOKING REALLY COOL. I EVEN SHOWED YOU GUYS A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT WAYS YOU CAN GET THIS EFFECT. NOW WHAT I REALLY LIKE ABOUT THIS PAINT JOB IS IT'S REALLY EASY TO DO AND IT'S VERY INEXPENSIVE. SO HEY, IF YOU DON'T LIKE IT IT'S ALRIGHT.

YOU CAN GO BACK, DO A LITTLE MORE, OR PAINT THE TRUCK

SOLID IF YOU WANT TO.

(LT)>> ABSOLUTELY, THIS IS JUST ANOTHER ONE OF THOSE PROJECTS. I MEAN THIS WHOLE TRUCK HAS BEEN SOMETHING THAT YOU CAN DO AT HOME WITHOUT THAT MANY SPECIAL TOOLS, BUT HOLD ON A SECOND.

(JEREMY)>> WHAT DO YOU GOT OVER THERE?

(LT)>> CHECK THIS OUT, I GOT SOME NEW JEWELRY IN. 20 INCH RALLY REPLICAS.

(JEREMY)>> YEP, ORIGINAL LOOK, MORE MODERN SIZE, THAT'LL LOOK GOOD. I HOPE YOU ORDERED A LOT OF TIRES CAUSE

WE'RE GONNA NEED THEM.

(LT)>> SO HOW DID WE DO ON OUR EMISSIONS MISSION?

A RETEST ON THE GAS ANALYZER REGISTERED WELL BELOW THE 220 MAXIMUM FOR HYDROCARBONS. MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!