Underbody Rust Repair on a '71 Chevy C10

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY CUSTOM DIY RADIATOR HOSES ARE WITHIN YOUR REACH. PLUS CUTTING AWAY THE NASTY ON OUR C-10 BEFORE THE CAB IS MARRIED TO THE FRAME ONE LAST TIME. THAT'S ALL RIGHT NOW ON TRUCK TECH.

(LT)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO TRUCK TECH. TODAY WE'VE GOT OUR '71 C-10 BACK IN THE SHOP, THE CAB'S UP ON THE LIFT, AND WE'RE GONNA TAKE CARE OF THAT FOUR LETTER WORD THAT EVERY CAR GUY HATES.

(JEREMY)>> RUST, BUT HEY IT'S REALLY NOT THAT BAD.

(LT)>> YOU SURE, YOU'VE GOT A COUPLE OF BIG HOLES HERE?

(JEREMY)>> MAN DON'T LET THAT SCARE YOU. NOW ALTHOUGH THERE ARE PARTS ALL OVER THIS SHOP WE'VE ACTUALLY MADE A LOT OF PROGRESS ON THIS TRUCK. NOW WHEN IT ROLLED IN HERE IT LOOKED TO BE A PRETTY CLEAN TRUCK BUT AS WE DUG INTO IT A LITTLE BIT NOT QUITE GOOD ENOUGH.

WE PULLED THE CAB AND STARTED DRILLING OUT THE SPOT WELDS ON THESE CAB SUPPORTS, AND WELL MOTHER NATURE HAD REALLY TAKEN ITS TOLL ON THIS OLD GIRL. UNFORTUNATELY RUST IS ONE OF THE MAIN KILLERS OF THESE OLD TRUCKS, WHICH IS WHY SO MANY HAVE ENDED UP AT THE SCRAP YARD, BUT LIKE I'VE SAID BEFORE, RUST IS NOTHING TO BE AFRAID OF, ESPECIALLY WITH HOW MANY AFTERMARKET PARTS ARE AVAILABLE. NOW THERE'S BEEN QUITE A BIT OF WORK GOING UNDER THIS CAB BY THE PREVIOUS OWNER LIKE THIS INNER ROCKER, WHICH I'LL END UP REPLACING, AND A COUPLE OF CAB SUPPORTS. NOW THERE ARE A COUPLE OF WAYS YOU CAN GO WHEN REPLACING SUPPORTS ON THIS ERA TRUCK. YOU CAN GO WITH A DIRECT REPLACEMENT, WHICH BASICALLY MEANS YOU CUT OUT THE OLD SUPPORT AND BURN IN A NEW ONE, OR YOU CAN GO WITH A SLIP OVER PANEL LIKE THE PREVIOUS OWNER HAS DONE HERE, WHICH BASICALLY IS JUST HOW IT SOUNDS.

IT SLIPS RIGHT OVER THE OLD SUPPORT JUST REINFORCING EVERYTHING. NOW IS THIS RIGHT OR IS IT WRONG?

IT REALLY DEPENDS ON WHAT YOU'RE BUILDING, WHAT YOU PLAN TO DO WITH THE TRUCK, AND HOW MUCH TIME YOU PLAN ON INVESTING. THE PROBLEM WITH THIS IS THERE'S STILL RUST UNDER THERE. IT'S NOT A LIFETIME REPAIR. THAT RUST IS JUST GONNA KEEP ON GOING. SO WE'LL GET STARTED BACK UP FRONT AND SHOW YOU HOW TO DO IT THE RIGHT WAY. THE FIRST STEP WE'RE GOING TO TAKE BEFORE INSTALLING

OUR NEW CAB SUPPORT IS REPLACING THIS SECTION OF RUSTY FLOOR DIRECTLY OVER IT. [ hammer tapping ]

(JEREMY)>> MAKING SURE TO TAKE IT FAR ENOUGH BACK THAT WE'LL HAVE GOOD METAL TO WELD TO.

NOW IF YOU'RE ABLE TO KEEP IT INTACT, TAKE THE SECTION YOU CUT OUT AND USE THAT AS A TEMPLATE. WE PICKED UP A NEW DRIVER FLOOR SECTION FROM LMC TRUCK, BUT WON'T USE THE ENTIRE PIECE. I'M MARKING THE PIECE A LITTLE BIGGER THAN IT NEEDS TO BE. THIS WAY I MAKE SURE I GIVE US PLENTY OF WIGGLE ROOM WHEN WE GET TO THE TRUCK, AND WE CAN TRACE IT OUT AND TRIM IT TO FIT THERE. THIS WILL SAVE A TON OF TIME FROM HAVING TO FAB UP A NEW PIECE FROM SCRATCH.

[ grinder spinning ]

(JEREMY)>> ALRIGHT GOT GOOD, CLEAN METAL TO WELD TO. NOW WHEN I PUT THE NEW FLOOR SECTION IN I'M ACTUALLY GONNA BUT WELD IT TO THE OLD FLOOR. NOW I COULD HAVE CUT THIS PIECE A LITTLE BIT BIGGER, SET IT OVER THE TOP OF THE FLOOR SECTION, AND SPOT WELDED IT IN. THE ONLY PROBLEM WITH THIS IS WE'RE SANDWICHING METAL TOGETHER, AND I DON'T LIKE TO DO THAT UNLESS IT'S NECESSARY BECAUSE ALL THAT'S GONNA DO IS TRAP

MOISTURE AND EVENTUALLY RUST OUT AND YOU'RE IN THE SAME BOAT, BUT SOMETIMES IT'S NECESSARY, LIKE RIGHT HERE WHERE THEY SPOT WELDED IT IN FROM THE FACTORY.

NOW IF YOU HAVE TO STACK METAL ON TOP OF EACH OTHER, JUST MAKE SURE YOU USE A GOOD WELD THROUGH PRIMER JUST TO PREVENT CORROSION IN THE FUTURE. TO MIMIC THE FACTORY SPOT WELDS I'M USING A PNEUMATIC PUNCH TO MAKE HOLES IN THE PANEL, SPACING THEM ABOUT TWO FINGER WIDTHS APART.

YOU CAN SEE I'M JUMPING AROUND USING TACK WELDS. THIS WAY I'M NOT CREATING TOO MUCH HEAT THAT COULD WARP THE METAL. I LIKE TO USE A BODY HAMMER TO FINESSE THE PIECE SO IT LINES UP PERFECTLY. ALSO WHEN YOU DO THESE KIND OF REPAIRS MAKE SURE YOU FULLY WELD THE PIECE IN. I'VE SEEN SO MANY REPAIRS WHERE PEOPLE JUST TACK THE PIECE IN. THEN SEAM SEAL OR FIBERGLASS THE SEAM LEFT BEHIND. NEXT I'M KNOCKING DOWN THE WELDS WITH A THREE INCH 36 GRIT ROLL LOCK ON AN ANGLE GRINDER, BUT DON'T GRIND AWAY ALL OF YOUR WELD. YOU WANT TO LEAVE AS MUCH AS YOU CAN FOR STRENGTH. NEXT UP IS THE CAB SUPPORT. NOW SINCE I'M ONLY REPLACING A SECTION I'LL MEASURE, THEN CUT TO LENGTH.

I THINK THAT'LL WORK. SINCE WE'RE PUTTING TWO PIECES OF METAL TOGETHER, IT'S VERY IMPORTANT TO USE WELD THROUGH PRIMER HERE. THIS WILL PREVENT ANY FUTURE CORROSION. VICE GRIPS WILL HOLD IT INTO PLACE WHILE I MAKE

A FEW TACKS, AND HERE'S A TIP FOR YOU. FOR A TIGHT GAP TO THE FLOOR SECTION I'LL USE A FEW SHEET METAL SCREWS TO HOLD THE PIECE IN PLACE. THEN I CAN BURN IT IN. [ welder crackling ]

(JEREMY)>> WELL GOT EVERYTHING TAKEN CARE OF

UP FRONT, NO MORE RUST, AND NOT ONLY THAT THE

TRUCK'S GONNA BE A WHOLE LOT SAFER WITH THESE REPAIRS. NOW UNFORTUNATELY I'VE A LITTLE MORE RUST TO DEAL WITH UNDER THIS TRUCK. SO I MAY BE HERE A MINUTE.

(ANNOUNCER)>> NEXT LT WILL SHOW US HOW OUR C-10'S GONNA KEEP IT ON THE COOL SIDE.

(LT)>> OUR LT ONE ENGINE HAS BEEN BETWEEN THE FRAME RAILS OF OUR C-10 FOR A FEW MONTHS NOW, AND WE'RE READY TO TURN OUR ATTENTION TO THE COOLING SYSTEM, AND THAT STARTS WITH A PLACE TO MOUNT THE RADIATOR. NOW OUR OLD CORE SUPPORT HAS SEEN BETTER DAYS. IT'S HEAVILY RUSTED UNDERNEATH THE BATTERY TRAY, THE HARDWARE IS GONE, AND ALONG THE WAY

SOMEBODY GOT KINDA CREATIVE AND THEY CUT OFF THE HEADLIGHT MOUNTS AND THEY WELDED THE BUCKETS DIRECTLY TO THE CORE SUPPORT. SO IN ITS CURRENT STATE IT'S REALLY NOT GONNA WORK FOR US. NOW WE COULD HAVE TAKEN THE TIME, MADE THE REPAIRS, PAINTED IT, AND GOT IT READY TO GO, BUT IT'S JUST NOT WORTH THE EFFORT, ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU CONSIDER YOU CAN BUY A BRAND NEW CORE SUPPORT FOR $190 BUCKS FROM LMC TRUCK. NOW NORMALLY THESE COME WITH ECOAT BUT WE ALREADY WENT AHEAD AND WE SCUFFED THIS AND WE SHOT IT WITH A

SINGLE STAGE URETHANE PAINT IN SATIN BLACK. WE ALSO WENT AHEAD AND PICKED UP A MOUNTING KIT THAT COMES WITH ALL THE BUSHINGS AND HARDWARE TO GET IT MOUNTED TO THE TRUCK. SO WHY IS NEW HARDWARE SO IMPORTANT? WELL FLASHING BACK AT WHAT SECURED THE ORIGINAL CORE SUPPORT YOU CAN SEE WE HAD NO CHOICE. THE BUSHINGS WERE DRY ROTTED AND CRACKED, AND THE BOLTS WERE RUSTED AWAY. NEW MOUNTING KITS ARE CHEAP AND MAKE FOR AN EASY INSTALL. ONCE EVERYTHING IS TIGHTENED DOWN, WE'RE READY FOR THE NEXT STEP. NOW THAT WE HAVE A PLACE TO MOUNT IT, WE NEED A RADIATOR THAT'LL BRING DOWN THE TEMPERATURE OF THE COOLANT AND SEND IT ON ITS WAY BACK TO THE ENGINE. SO WE TURNED TO HOLLEY AND GRABBED ONE OF THEIR ALUMINUM TIG WELDED FROSTBITE RADIATORS. NOW THIS 28 INCH WIDE, FOUR ROW CORE WILL HAVE NO TROUBLE KEEPING OUR LT ONE COOL. THIS IS ACTUALLY DESIGNED FOR '67 TO '72 C-10'S WITH AN LS SWAP, BUT BECAUSE OUR STREET SHOP ACCESSORY DRIVE ACTUALLY USES AN LS THREE WATER PUMP THIS'LL WORK PERFECT FOR US, AND IT BOLTS RIGHT IN THE FACTORY LOCATION. THE RAD DROPS IN AND IS HELD DOWN WITH THE ORIGINAL BRACKETS. OFTEN TIMES THE MOST DIFFICULT PART OF COMPLETING AN ENGINE SWAP IS PLUMBING THE COOLING SYSTEM. USUALLY THE PORTS ON A NEW ENGINE ARE IN A DIFFERENT SPOT, THEY'RE A DIFFERENT SIZE, AND YOUR ORIGINAL HOSES JUST WON'T LINE UP.

SO THERE ARE A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT OPTIONS THAT YOU CAN TAKE TO GET THE COOLANT FROM THE ENGINE TO THE RADIATOR AND BACK AGAIN, AND THE FIRST ONE IS JUST PLAIN GETTING LUCKY. SOMETIMES THE ORIGINAL HOSE OR THE HOSE FROM THE DONOR ENGINE WILL WORK. IT HAS A NICE FACTORY STYLE, THE BENDS ARE MOLDED IN, AND IT JUST LOOKS NICE AND CLEAN. PLUS IF YOU EVER BLOW A HOSE, YOU KNOW EXACTLY

WHERE TO GO TO GET ONE TO REPLACE IT. THE SECOND OPTION WOULD BE TO TAKE A PIECE OF WELDING WIRE OR AN OLD COAT HANGER AND BEND IT IN THE SHAPE THAT YOU NEED FOR YOUR NEW HOSE. YOU CAN THEN TAKE THIS DOWN TO YOUR LOCAL AUTO PARTS STORE AND NICELY ASK TO GO INTO THE BACK ROOM

AND SEE THEIR SELECTION OF RADIATOR HOSES, AND MORE OFTEN THAN NOT YOU CAN ACTUALLY FIND ONE THAT'LL

FIT PERFECTLY FOR YOUR APPLICATION. IT MIGHT BE FROM A KIA OR A HONDA BUT HEY, IT'LL WORK. NOW THE THIRD OPTION WOULD BE TO FIND A UNIVERSAL FLEXIBLE RADIATOR HOSE.

THIS STUFF IS AVAILABLE IN RUBBER OR METAL AND IT BENDS PRETTY EASILY TO GET THE FLUID FROM POINTA TO POINTB, AND THIS STUFF IS GREAT FOR PEOPLE WHO DON'T HAVE ACCESS TO A WELDER. FOR OUR C-10 WE'RE ACTUALLY GONNA BUILD SOME RADIATOR HOSES OUT OF HARD LINE. SO WE WENT TO VIBRANT PERFORMANCE AND PICKED UP A COUPLE OF THESE INCH AND A HALF AND INCH AND THREE QUARTER BENDS. THEY'RE MADE FROM POLISHED 60-61 ALUMINUM, AND THIS STUFF WELDS SUPER NICE. THEN TO MAKE CONNECTIONS AT THE ENGINE AND RADIATOR WE'LL USE A COUPLE OF THESE FOUR PLY REINFORCED SILICONE COUPLERS. NOW BUILDING A CUSTOM RADIATOR HOSE IS ACTUALLY A LOT EASIER THAN IT SOUNDS, AND WE'LL SHOW YOU HOW TO GET STARTED UP TOP. I'LL SLIDE AN INCH AND A HALF SILICONE COUPLE ONTO THE UPPER RADIATOR. THEN I CAN START BY MEASURING THE FIRST TUBE AND CUTTING IT DOWN. MY INCH AND A HALF 90 WILL MEET UP WITH THIS 45 THAT WILL CONNECT STRAIGHT TO THE WATER PUMP. I LIKE TO USE THE BAND SAW TO CUT THE TUBE, BUT

A FINE TOOTH HACK SAW ALSO WORKS GREAT ON THIS ALUMINUM. I'LL DEBURR THE CUT ENDS WITH A HAND FILE.

A POWER SANDER COULD MAKE QUICKER WORK OF THE ALUMINUM BUT IT'S EASY TO TAKE TOO MUCH AWAY. WITH BOTH PIECES TRIMMED, I'LL CHECK THE FITMENT AND MARK THE ALIGNMENT. OVER AT THE WELDING TABLE IT'S IMPORTANT TO CLEAN

THE INSIDE OF THE JOINT WITH ACETONE TO REMOVE ANY CONTAMINANTS. MASKING TAPE HOLDS THE TWO PIECES TOGETHER. I WILL TACK BOTH SIDES AND CLEAN THE OUTSIDE OF THE JOINT WITH ACETONE BEFORE FINAL WELDING. THE LOWER RADIATOR HOSE IS MUCH QUICKER TO MAKE. WE GOT LUCKY. A SINGLE INCH AND THREE QUARTER 45 DEGREE BEND WILL WORK PERFECTLY, ONCE WE CUT IT TO THE RIGHT LENGTH. THE COOLANT TUBES FOR OUR C-10 ARE NEARLY DONE, BUT WE NEED A WAY TO PREVENT THE COUPLE FROM SLIPPING OFF. NOW I COULD JUST ADD A BUNCH OF WELD ON THE END OF THE PIPE AND THAT WOULD WORK, BUT A CLEANER WAY WOULD BE TO FORM A BEAD DIRECTLY IN THE END, AND

VIBRANT PERFORMANCE HAS JUST THE TOOL FOR THE JOB. WE GRABBED OURS FROM SUMMIT RACING, AND WE USE IT ALL THE TIME ON STEEL AND ALUMINUM, JUST LIKE THIS COLD AIR INTAKE I BUILT FOR THE C-10. NOW THE BEAD ROLLER IS ESPECIALLY USEFUL WHEN YOU'RE BUILDING TURBO CHARGE PIPES OR OTHER

PRESSURIZED CONNECTIONS BECAUSE THE FORMED BEAD ACTUALLY ACTS LIKE A BARB, PREVENTING THE SILICONE FROM SLIDING OFF WHEN UNDER PRESSURE. IT WORKS SIMILAR TO A PIPE CUTTER. TIGHTEN THE SCREW A BIT AND CRANK THE HANDLE. ALL IT TAKES IS A FEW TURNS TO FORM A PERFECT BEAD, AND ONCE ALL OUR TUBES ARE DONE WE'LL INSTALL THEM IN THE TRUCK FOR GOOD. STANDARD HOSE CLAMPS WILL SECURE THE CONNECTION. YEAH, I COULD HAVE MADE A STORE BOUGHT HOSE WORK, BUT FOR LESS THAN AN HOUR'S WORK WE HAVE TWO CUSTOM COOLANT TUBES AND THE SATISFACTION OF DOING IT YOURSELF.

(ANNOUNCER)>> AHEAD A LINE OF PAINT THAT WON'T BREAK THE BANK.

(JEREMY)>> NOW WHEN YOU GUYS WERE SITTING AT HOME ON THE COUCH I WENT AHEAD AND CUT OUT THE REST OF THIS RUST AND REPLACED ALL THIS BAD REPAIR WORK WITH NEW METAL. SO NOW I CAN START PREPPING THE UNDERSIDE OF THE CAB FOR THE NEW MATERIAL. WE NEED TO GET RID OF ALL THIS DIRT, GRIME, AND FACTORY UNDERCOATING SO OUR NEW MATERIAL WILL GET GOOD ADHESION, LAST FOR A LOT OF YEARS. THERE'S A FEW TOOLS YOU CAN USE TO ACCOMPLISH THIS, GRINDER, ASSORTMENT OF WIRE WHEELS, AND A SCRAPER. NOW THIS IS WHAT I USUALLY PREFER BECAUSE THE WIRE WHEELS WILL GET INTO THE HARD TO REACH AREAS AND SOMETIMES IF YOU GET LUCKY AND THE UNDERCOATING'S STILL SOFT YOU CAN SCRAPE IT RIGHT OFF, BUT LOOKS LIKE OURS HAS GOTTEN KINDA HARD, BUT WE'LL GIVE IT A SHOT AND SEE WHAT IT DOES. I LIKE USING A SCRAPER BECAUSE IT'S A LOT LESS MESSY. THAT GRINDER THROWS DEBRIS EVERYWHERE AND THE NEXT THING YOU KNOW YOUR SHOP'S COVERED IN DUSTY. A LITTLE HEAT FROM A PROPANE TORCH WILL HELP

SOFTEN UP ANY FACTORY UNDERCOATING, LOOK AT THAT, MAKING IT MUCH EASIER TO SCRAPE OFF. I WILL HOWEVER USE A SMALL WIRE WHEEL ON AN ANGLE

GRINDER TO GET INTO THE TIGHT CORNERS THAT THE SCRAPER CAN'T REACH.

IF YOU'RE WONDERING WHY YOU HAD TO PAY SO MUCH MONEY WHEN YOU SEND YOUR TRUCK OUT TO HAVE IT BUILT, WELL IT'S CAUSE THE PERSON YOU'RE PAYING HAS TO GO THROUGH THIS.

I NEED A SHOWER. I'LL LAY OUT SOME TAPE LINES AND SEAM SEAL ALL THE PLACES WHERE WE PUT METAL TO METAL, LIKE OUR CAB SUPPORTS WHERE THEY MEET THE FLOOR. THIS WILL KEEP MOISTURE FROM GETTING IN THE SUPPORT, PREVENTING ANY RUST FROM FORMING AGAIN. NOW WE'RE READY FOR OUR DUPLICOLOR RUST BARRIER. NOW YOU CAN ACTUALLY APPLY THIS RIGHT OVER BARE METAL AND RUST. IT'LL SEAL IN THE CORROSION AND STOP RUST

FROM EVER FORMING AGAIN.

NOW IF I KNOW METAL'S GONNA SIT BARE FOR ANY AMOUNT OF TIME I'LL USUALLY GO AHEAD AND ETCH PRIME IT, BUT WITH THIS PRODUCT YOU DON'T EVEN NEED IT. YOU CAN APPLY THIS WITH A BRUSH, A ROLLER, OR AN HVLP GUN.

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

NOW AS YOU CAN SEE BEFORE, OUR C-10 HAD HOLES IN THE

FLOOR THAT YOU COULD NEARLY STICK YOUR HAND THROUGH, BUT NOW WE'VE GOT ALL THAT CUT OUT AND REPLACED WITH BRAND NEW METAL AND SHE'S SOLID. NOW REMEMBER, THIS IS GONNA BE A DAILY DRIVER, SO IT DOESN'T HAVE TO BE PERFECT. WE JUST WANT TO PRESERVE IT SO IT'LL LAST FOR A LOT OF YEARS AND GET THIS THING BACK DOWN ON THE FRAME AND BASH ON IT AND NOT HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT IT. SINCE WE HAVE OUR CAB OFF THE FRAME, THIS WOULD BE A GREAT TIME TO GO AHEAD AND PAINT THE FIREWALL.

(LT)>> SOME MICE LIVING IN THERE.

(JEREMY)>> WE HAVE ALL NEW PARTS GOING IN, LIKE A STEERING COLUMN AND HYDRO BOOST. SO WE CAN REMOVE ALL THIS OLD JUNK. WE CAN START OUT BY WET SANDING WITH 400 GRIT SAND PAPER AND RED SCUFF PADS. DOWN LOW WE HAVE JUST A LITTLE BIT OF SURFACE RUST. SO I'LL KNOCK THAT DOWN WITH 180 GRIT ON A DA. THEN WE CAN GET IT OFF THE LIFT AND AROUND THE CORNER TO OUR DEDICATED PAINT BOOTH. WE'LL MASK IT UP, PROTECT IT FROM ANY OVERSPRAY, AND A LITTLE RUST TREATMENT WHERE I RAN THE DA WILL MAKE SURE NONE OF THIS NASTY RUST RETURNS. NOW I KNOW THIS LOOKS LIKE A LOT OF PRODUCTS JUST TO PAINT A FIREWALL BUT ACTUALLY WE'VE GOT BIGGER PLANS FOR THIS TRUCK, BUT YOU'LL HAVE TO WAIT TO FIND OUT ABOUT THAT, BUT FOR WHAT WE'RE DOING TODAY IN THE PAINT BOOTH WE WENT TO SUMMIT RACING AND PICKED UP SOME OF THEIR EPOXY PRIMER, WHICH WE'LL LAY DOWN FIRST, FOLLOWED BY A FLAME RED BASE COAT

AND REDUCER, AND THEN TO GO ALONG WITH THAT KIND OF SLEEPER LOOK WE'RE GOING FOR SOME HOT ROD SATIN CLEAR. WE'LL GET STARTED WITH THE PRIMER. WITH THE CAB WIPED DOWN AND TACKED OFF, I CAN LAY DOWN ONE COAT OF THE EPOXY PRIMER. AFTER A 30 MINUTE FLASH TIME WE CAN LAY DOWN THE FLAME RED. NOW I'VE GOT SOMETHING SPECIAL PLANNED FOR THIS C-10 BUT THE FINISH WON'T LOOK NEW.

AS A MATTER OF FACT, THIS TRUCK WILL HAVE A DURABLE PAINT JOB BUT LOOK LIKE IT'S BEEN SITTING IN A CORN FIELD FOR ABOUT 30 YEARS.

(ANNOUNCER)>> NEXT, OUT OF THE BOOTH AND ONTO THE FRAME.

(JEREMY)>> WELL WE'VE GOT OUR '71 C-10 OUT OF THE PAINT BOOTH AND BACK IN THE SHOP. WE'VE GOT THE FIREWALL ALL FRESHENED UP WITH THAT

SATIN PAINT JOB. WE'VE GOT THE BOTTOM OF THE CAB METAL WORKED AND

UNDERCOATED, AND IT'S READY TO SIT BACK DOWN ON THE FRAME.

(LT)>> WE'VE DONE A LOT OF WORK BEFOREHAND TO GET THIS CHASSIS READY TO GO. IT'S GOT A FULL FUEL SYSTEM, THE FRAME'S BEEN PAINTED, WE'VE GOT A FULL EXHAUST, AND THE ENGINE AND TRANS ARE SITTING PERMANENTLY IN THEIR HOME. I EVEN TOOK THE TIME TO INSTALL THE PACE PERFORMANCE WIRING HARNESS FOR OUR LT ONE, AND THE COOLING SYSTEM'S DONE AS WELL AS THE COLD AIR INTAKE. SO BASICALLY WE HAVE A RUNNING AND DRIVING CHASSIS THAT'S READY TO GO.

(JEREMY)>> NOW THE REASON WE WENT AHEAD AND INSTALLED EVERYTHING, BUILT EXHAUST, WIRED IT UP, AND THAT WHOLE DEAL IS IF THIS TRUCK WERE ASSEMBLED AND WE TRIED TO DO THAT WE'D BE CRAWLING UNDER THE TRUCK, IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT, UP ON THE LIFT, BACK DOWN ON THE FLOOR, EVERYWHERE MAN. SO WE ACTUALLY SAVED A TON OF TIME TO GO AHEAD AND DO IT THIS WAY, AND I THINK WE CAN START PUTTING IT TOGETHER.

(LT)>> LET'S ROLL THIS UNDERNEATH. THIS IS ALWAYS MY MOST FAVORITE PART OF A PROJECT IS WHEN YOU GET A CAB THAT COMES DOWN ON THE FRAME.

IT'S LIKE THE SIGN OF PROGRESS.

(JEREMY)>> ALL SENTIMENTAL.

(LT)>> YOU GET THAT SENSE OF ACCOMPLISHMENT AND YOU'RE LIKE OH MAN, THIS IS LIKE WATCHING YOUR CHILD BEING BORN, OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT. DON'T TELL THAT TO MY WIFE.

(JEREMY)>> YOU'RE WEIRD.

(LT)>> YEAH I AM.

(JEREMY)>> GETTING IN AND OUT OF YOUR LIFTED JEEP OR PICKUP CAN BE A CHORE, ESPECIALLY FOR THE WIFE AND KIDS. THIS IS BESTOP POWER BOARD NX, A RETRACTABLE RUNNING BOARD THAT WON'T SPOIL THE LOOK OF YOUR TRUCK. IT FEATURES THESE ARTICULATING ARMS THAT SWING OUT WHEN THE DOORS OPEN AND BACK UNDERNEATH THE ROCKER WHEN YOU CLOSE THE DOOR, AND WIFI TECHNOLOGY MAKES THEM SUPER EASY TO INSTALL WITH THESE SENSORS AND MAGNETS THAT MOUNT IN THE DOOR JAM, AND YOU DON'T HAVE TO CUT OR SPLICE INTO YOUR FACTORY HARNESS. FOR YOUR NEAREST DEALER CHECK OUT BESTOP DOT COM.

(LT)>> WANT TO GIVE YOUR STOCK JEEP AN ALTITUDE ADJUSTMENT? THIS IS ZONE OFF ROAD PRODUCTS' FOUR INCH LIFT

KIT FOR '07 TO '16 JK WRANGLERS. IT LETS YOU FIT 35, OR EVEN UP TO 37'S IF YOU WANT TO TRIM THE FENDERS A LITTLE BIT, AND FOR $750 BUCKS FOR EVERYTHING YOU SEE HERE, IT'S ONE OF THE

MORE AFFORDABLE KITS OUT THERE, EVEN WITH OPTIONAL EXTRAS LIKE THESE SWAY BAR DISCONNECTS. YOU GET ZONE NITRO OFF ROAD SHOCKS, AN ADJUSTABLE TRACK BAR UP FRONT, A TRACK BAR RELOCATION BRACKET OUT BACK, BUMP STOP EXTENSIONS, AND OF COURSE THE COIL SPRINGS THAT ACTUALLY PROVIDE THE LIFT. ORDER YOURS AT ZONE OFF ROAD DOT COM.

(JEREMY)>> NOW I DIDN'T JUST PICK FLAME RED FOR THIS TRUCK BECAUSE I LIKE THE COLOR. THIS IS ACTUALLY WHAT THIS TRUCK WOULD HAVE CAME WITH IN 1971 OR PRETTY DARN CLOSE TO IT.

(LT)>> NOW THAT MAY BE BUT WHAT'D YOU CALL THE COLOR?

(JEREMY)>> RED MAN.

(LT)>> NO WHAT COLOR IS THIS?

(JEREMY)>> THAT'S RED.

(LT)>> WHAT COLOR'S THE ROOF?

(JEREMY)>> IT'S RED.

(LT)>> AND YOU THINK THAT'S RED?

(JEREMY)>> YOU KNOW THERE'S MORE THAN ONE SHADE OF RED RIGHT?

(LT)>> I GUESS.

(JEREMY)>> ARE YOU COLOR BLIND OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT? WE MAY NEED TO GET YOU CHECKED OUT. NOW WHAT I WAS TEASING YOU GUYS WITH EARLIER WAS THE WAY WE'RE GONNA PAINT THIS TRUCK. WE'RE ACTUALLY GONNA DO A PATINA PAINT JOB ON IT.

I'M GONNA LAY DOWN SOME RED OXIDE PRIMER, WE'RE GONNA COVER IT WITH THE FLAME RED, SAND THROUGH IT EVERYWHERE THE SUN WOULD HAVE BEAT THIS THING DOWN BACK IN THE DAY, AND MAKE IT LOOK OLD WITH A BRAND NEW FINISH.

(LT)>> BUT THAT'S ANOTHER SHOW FOR ANOTHER TIME.

(JEREMY)>> ABSOLUTELY.

(LT)>> LET'S FINISH THIS CAB.

(JEREMY)>> YOU'RE HELPING ME THIS TIME. I'VE GOT A LOT OF SANDING FOR YOU TO DO.