Old Skool Flatty: Part 1 How to Hot Rod a Ford Flathead

(ANNOUNCER)>> IT'S FLATHEADS FOREVER AS ENGINE POWER HOT RODS ONE OF HENRY FORD'S LEGENDARY SIDE VALVE VEIGHTS.

(MIKE)>> I HOPE YOU'VE GOT A HAMMER ON THAT CART. THIS THING LOOKED BETTER IN THE JUNKYARD.

(JOHN)>> I THINK IT'LL BE FINE MAN. NEW OIL CHANGE, A LITTLE 30 WEIGHT OIL IN THE CYLINDERS, IT'LL FIRE RIGHT UP WITH SOME NEW PLUGS.

(MIKE)>> WELCOME TO THE ENGINE POWER SHOP. TODAY WE'RE STARTING A BUILD ON A FAMOUS FORD FLATHEAD. NOW WE FOUND OURS AT A LOCAL AUTO RECYCLING YARD IN AN OLD FLAT BED TRUCK. ITS AN ENGINE THAT HAS NOT BEEN PRODUCED FOR 61 YEARS. OUR PLAN IS TO BUILD A PERFORMANCE FLATHEAD THAT PAYS TRIBUTE TO THE WAY IT WOULD HAVE BEEN BUILT BY HOT RODDERS BACK IN THE '50'S AND '60'S. WHEN HENRY FORD RELEASED A NEW VEIGHT ENGINE FOR HIS 1932 MODELB'S AND 18'S, HE NEVER KNEW HE HAD JUMP STARTED AN AMERICAN HOT RODDING CRAZE. IT WAS QUICKLY EMBRACED BY GUYS WITH A PASSION FOR GOING FAST. IT WAS EVEN THE CATALYST FOR AN EMERGING EVENTUALLY FLOURISHING AFTERMARKET SPEED EQUIPMENT INDUSTRY.

(VIC)>> THE FLATHEAD WAS THE ENGINE AFTER THE WAR. AND HENRY HAD NO IDEA THAT IT WAS EVER GONNA BE ACCEPTED IN THAT WAY, BUT IT WAS.

(MIKE)>> THE FLATHEAD WAS THE GO TO POWERPLANT FOR RACERS OF ALL BREEDS AND NEEDS FOR SPEED. THAT IS UNTIL THE EARLY '50'S WHEN PRODUCTION OF THE OUTDATED FLATTY FADED INTO HISTORY. IN RECENT YEARS THOUGH FLATHEAD FEVER HAS SEEN AN ALL NEW OUTBREAK. WITH THE RESURGENCE OF STREET ROD AND CUSTOM CLASSIC BUILDERS, THEY'VE GAINED FRESH FAME WITH A NEW BREED OF ENTHUSIASTS. THROUGHOUT THE YEARS MONUMENTAL MOTORS HAVE COME AND GONE, BUT NOW MORE THAN EVER THERE'S TIME TESTED TRUTH IN THE OLD PHRASE "FLATHEADS FOREVER". ACCORDING TO THE CASTING NUMBER ON THE HEADS AND THE CASTING NUMBER ON THE BLOCK, THIS IS ONE OF THE LATE

VERSIONS FROM 1949 TO '53, WHICH IS THE 239 CUBIC INCH VERSION. IT HAS A THREE POINT ONEEIGHTSEVENFIVE BORE AND A THREESEVEN-50 STROKE. NOW IT MADE A WHOOPING 110 HORSEPOWER AND 194 POUND FEET OF TORQUE BACK IN ITS DAY. NOW YOU CAN STILL FIND THEM, BUT CONDITIONS MAY VARY.

(JOHN)>> NOW OURS WAS OBVIOUSLY IN THE WEATHER FOR SOME TIME.

AND BEING ALL IRON, THE RUST WITCH HAS CAST HER SPELL. THIS ONE WON'T TURN OVER. THE PISTONS AND RINGS ARE FROZE TO THE CYLINDER WALLS AND WHO KNOWS WHAT THE BEARINGS LOOK LIKE. NOW I HAVE HEARD OF SOME GUYS CONFUSING THESE WITH THE SIX CYLINDER AT FIRST GLANCE BECAUSE THEY HAVE THREE EXHAUST PORTS ON THE SIDE OF THE BLOCK. NOW THE WAY THAT WORKS IS THE TWO CENTER EXHAUST VALVES ACTUALLY SHARE THE SAME RUNNER AND DUMP OUT THE SAME SPOT. NOW THAT CAUSES A PROBLEM BECAUSE IT CREATES A LOT OF HEAT IN BETWEEN THESE TWO CYLINDERS. SO WHEN WE GET IT TORE DOWN AND MAGNAFLUXED, THAT'LL

BE THE FIRST PLACE WE CHECK FOR CRACKS.

(MIKE)>> WE TEAR A LOT OF OLD CARS APART HERE AT THE TECH CENTER. NOW MOST OF THE PARTS ARE RUSTY, BUT THEY'RE STILL VERY VALUABLE. SO WE'RE CREATING A SOAK TUB USING WD 40'S RUST REMOVER SOAP AS A FIRST STEP IN THE CLEANING PROCESS. NOW WHILE THIS THING MAY SEEM LARGE, IT'S FOR GOOD REASON. WE'RE GONNA SOAK LARGE AND SMALL PARTS IN IT AS WELL AS OUR FLATHEAD TO REMOVE THE SURFACE RUST AND MAYBE HELP LOOSEN THE LOCKED UP ROTATING ASSEMBLY IN OUR FLATTY. WE'RE NOT REUSING THE CYLINDER HEADS, BUT THEY'VE GOT SOME VALUE TO THE. SO WE'RE THROWING THEM IN AS WELL ALONG WITH THE INTAKE MANIFOLD.

(JOHN)>> NOW WE'RE GONNA GIVE THAT BLOCK SOME TIME TO SOAK. THAT'LL GIVE US A CHANCE TO GET STARTED ON OUR PARTS LIST. BUT RIGHT OFF THE BAT WE'RE GONNA GIVE CREDIT WHERE CREDIT'S DUE. EVERY BIT OF THE AFTERMARKET SUPPORT FOR GEARHEADS LIKE US NOW DAYS IS ALL THANKS TO THIS FLATHEAD VEIGHT. IT WAS THE VERY FIRST MASS PRODUCED AFFORDABLE VEIGHT, AND IT DIDN'T TAKE GUYS LONG TO START TEARING THEM APART AND DO WHAT WE DO, MAKE THEM BETTER.

AS A MATTER OF FACT, SOME OF THE PARTS THAT ARE GOING ON THIS ENGINE HAVE HAD PART NUMBERS IN CATALOGS FOR OVER 50 YEARS. ONE QUICK SEARCH ON THE INTERNET PROVES THAT THE SMALL BLOCK CHEVY WASN'T ALWAYS THE LEADER FOR HOT RODDERS. SCAT OFFERS SEVERAL ROTATING ASSEMBLIES, EDELBROCK MAKES HEADS AND CARBURETORS, COMP AND EVEN ISKI MAKE VALVETRAIN PARTS, ARP MAKES FASTENERS, AND THE LIST GOES ON AND ON. NOW ONE THING I WANT TO STRESS IS YOU HAVE TO GET

THE CASTING NUMBER AND VERIFY YOUR PARTS AGAINST IT. THERE'S AN EARLY AND A LATE MODEL FLATHEAD. AND AS A MATTER OF FACT, THE LINCOLNS HAD A LONGER STROKE. MAKE SURE YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE ORDERING SO YOU DON'T WASTE YOUR MONEY.

(MIKE)>> NOW WHAT WILL BE A SHORT BREAK FOR YOU WILL BE 24 HOURS FOR THE SOAK. WE'LL BE RIGHT BACK.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, A TEAR DOWN

TACTIC OF LAST RESORT. AND LATER IT'S HOW TO FIND AND FIX BLOCK CRACKS.

(JOHN)>> THAT'S GOOD RIGHT THERE. IT WAS BLUE!

(MIKE)>> WE'RE BACK AND ANXIOUS TO SEE THE RESULTS OF OUR OVERNIGHT SOAK. WOW, I SEE BARE METAL IN A LOT OF PLACES.

(JOHN)>> THAT'S PRETTY COOL! NOW WE'RE DOWN TO THE ACTUAL MACHINING MARKS ON THE DECK SURFACE.

(MIKE)>> LOOK AT THE TOP OF THE PISTONS,

THAT'S THE BIG THING.

(JOHN)>> OH LOOK, IT'S JUST COMING OFF WITH YOUR FINGERNAIL.

(MIKE)>> YEAH THE PAINT'S EVEN COMING OFF, LOOK AT THAT. THAT STUFF'S AMAZING.

(JOHN)>> THAT RIGHT THERE IS 100 PERCENT CLEAN, FRESH CAST IRON. THAT LOOKS GOOD!

(MIKE)>> AND AFTER A SHORT BATH WE'LL BE ABLE TO SEE WHAT WE HAVE TO WORK WITH.

(JOHN)>> NOW CLEAN IS GOOD, BUT THE WHOLE POINT OF THIS IS TO GET THE CYLINDER WALLS TO BREAK LOOSE OF THE ROTATING ASSEMBLY. WE'VE GOT A COUPLE SPOTS IN HERE OF RUST WE STILL

NEED TO FINISH UP. WITH SOME WD 40 RUST RELEASE PENETRANT AND A WELL USED HONE, WE'LL CLEAR THE WAY AS MUCH AS WE CAN. THESE RINGS AND CYLINDERS HAVE BEEN FUSING TOGETHER FOR MANY YEARS. AND THE 24 HOUR SOAK MAY NOT HAVE BEEN ENOUGH FOR THIS EXTREME CASE. ALRIGHT, I'M GONNA START PUTTING PRESSURE, HOPEFULLY I WON'T SNAP THAT CRANK. LETS SEE THE RESULTS OF OUR IMPATIENCE. NOPE, NOT YET. BEFORE WE GET PHYSICAL ON IT, WE NEED TO GET THE UNIQUE VALVE ASSEMBLIES THAT ARE MOUNTED UNDER THE HEAD OUT OF THE BLOCK. THEY'RE TUCKED AWAY IN THE VALLEY AND THE FIRST THING TO BE REMOVED IS THE VALVE GUIDE RETAINER. TO COMPRESS THE SPRING A SPECIAL TOOL WAS NEEDED. OURS CAME FROM GOODSON AND WE'LL COMPRESS IT ENOUGH TO REMOVE THE LOCKS, RETAINERS, AND SPRINGS. DON'T FORGET TO FIND ALL YOUR LOCKS.

(MIKE)>> HERE'S A SIGN THE ENGINE HAS BEEN REBUILT IN THE PAST. THE ORIGINAL INTAKE VALVES HAVE THE FORD LOGO ENGRAVED INTO THEM. THE EXHAUST VALVE SHOULD BE SMOOTH, THIS ENGINE HAD SOME OF THE EXHAUST VALVES IN THE INTAKE VALVE LOCATION. NOW WE CAN REMOVE THE LIFTERS AND FINALLY

THE FLATTY'S CAM. THE REBUILD IS CONFIRMED, HAD TO BE A QUALITY ONE TOO WITH THE STAMPINGS WE FOUND ON THE RODS.

EVEN THE NEW BEARING SIZES ARE STAMPED ON THE COUNTER WEIGHT. JOHN GRABBED THE CALIPERS TO CHECK THE BORE.

(JOHN)>> LOOKS LIKE THREE-250, IT'S BEEN BORED.

(MIKE)>> WHEN I SAY STOP, STOP, AND I WON'T LET IT COME OVER ON YOUR TOES ALRIGHT? NOW LETS SEE IF WE CAN LOOSEN THE ROTATING ASSEMBLY WITHOUT THE VALVETRAIN'S PRESSURE. SHE AIN'T BUDGING.

I THINK WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO BREAK THE PISTONS.

(JOHN)>> I THINK SO TOO.

LET ME, THAT'S NOT HAPPENING. SEE IF WE CAN HAMMER IT OUT.

(MIKE)>> WE CAN DO THAT.

(JOHN)>> THERE'S ONE!

(MIKE)>> WE'RE OFF TO A GOOD START AND HERE'S WHERE IT ENDS.

(JOHN)>> DID WE FIND THE ONE?

(MIKE)>> WE FOUND THE ONE. ROLL IT UP, LETS BUST THE PISTON. I'M AMAZED THAT ANY OF THEM BROKE FREE. ONLY A FEW NEEDED A LITTLE MORE PERSUASION. SO BY CUTTING OR BREAKING AWAY THE CENTER, WE CAN REMOVE THE OUTER EDGES. A LITTLE AT A TIME. JUST BE CAREFUL NOT TO KNICK OR SCAR THE CYLINDER WALLS.

YOU DON'T WANT TO BORE THE CYLINDERS ANYMORE THAN NECESSARY.

(MIKE)>> CAN'T GET INTO CYLINDER OR ANYTHING.

(JOHN)>> OH THERE IT GOES.

(MIKE)>> I'D LIKE TO SAY THE LAST PART TO GO IS THE CRANK, BUT WE'VE GOT ONE MORE PISTON WE COULDN'T GET TO.

(JOHN)>> GOT IT, I GOT IT, WE'RE GOOD.

(MIKE)>> I DON'T WANT TO HAVE TO DO THAT AGAIN. THAT WAS PRETTY DIRTY. WELL WE GOT EVERYTHING OFF OF IT WE NEEDED TO GET OFF AND WE SALVAGED WHAT WE NEEDED TO, THE BLOCK, THE MAINS, THAT'S REALLY ALL WE'RE GONNA BE USING ISN'T IT?

(JOHN)>> YEAH HOPEFULLY, I'VE STILL GOT TO GO TO THE MACHINE SHOP AND MAGNAFLUX IT. SO WE'LL SEE, COULD HAVE BEEN ALL FOR NAUGHT.

(MIKE)>> THAT'S THE NEXT STEP, I CAN'T WAIT TO SEE IT GO.

(JOHN)>> ONE MORE WASH IT IS. A MACHINE SHOP COULD HAVE REMOVED THE PISTONS FOR US, BUT WE SAVED A FEW HUNDRED DOLLARS AND GOT A BETTER LOOK AT THE BLOCK. OH MAN, THAT WAS A GREAT SATURDAY AFTERNOON. ENGINES THIS OLD AND NEGLECTED FOR THIS LONG CAN BE A GAMBLE, BUT AN OLD FLATHEAD LIKE THIS IS WORTH IT.

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP, OUR FLATHEAD GETS A VALVE JOB!

(JOHN)>> WE'RE BACK AND ABOUT TO FIND OUT IF THIS OLD FLATHEAD IS WORTH ANYMORE TIME AND MONEY TO REBUILD. THE FIRST ORDER OF BUSINESS AFTER BAKING AND SHOT PEENING IS GONNA BE MAGNAFLUXING. THIS WILL SHOW YOU CRACKS YOUR EYES CAN'T SEE, AND IT DOESN'T TAKE LONG TO DO JUST THAT.

(MIKE)>> THERE'S ONE.

(JOHN)>> IT'S A CRACK? YEP, THERE'S CRACK NUMBER TWO. I FOUND FIVE OF THESE. BETWEEN A WATER JACKET AND A BOLT HOLE.

NOW THIS MAY SEEM FATAL BUT IT'S NOT. IN FACT IT'S RATHER COMMON ON THESE BLOCKS, SOMETHING

I BELIEVE I CAN REPAIR. THE GOOD NEWS IS THE SIDES OF THE BLOCK ARE FINE. I'M NOT DANCING JUST YET. THE CYLINDERS ARE THE NEXT BIG CONCERN. NOW IF THEY HAVE CRACKS OR TOO MUCH SCARRING, WELL IT MAY NOT BE WORTH THE COST OF HAVING TO SLEEVE IT. BORE THEM OUT IS GONNA BE THE ONLY WAY TO TELL. NOW REMEMBER, THESE CYLINDERS HAVE BEEN OPENED UP TO THREE AND A QUARTER INCHES FROM A PREVIOUS REBUILT. SO WE'LL GO TO THREE AND THREEEIGHTHS TO ACCEPT THE LARGEST PISTON MADE FOR THIS BLOCK. IF THEY ALL CLEAN UP, NO SLEEVES WILL BE NEEDED AND WE'LL HAVE A BLOCK WORTH CONTINUING WITH.

THIS THING MUST HAVE THE WILL TO LIVE. THOSE CYLINDERS ARE SOLID. NOW IT'S TIME TO GET TO THOSE CRACKS. WE'RE GONNA START BY PICKING THE THREAD INSERT AND DRILL BIT TO DRILL OUT THE ORIGINAL HOLE WHERE THE CRACK STARTS. THEN WE LUBE THE THREADS ON AN INSERT THAT'S INSTALLED ON A BOLT WITH A NUT RUN UP TO THE TOP. AND WITH THE HEAD CUT OFF THE BOLT, I'LL USE THE DRILL FIXTURE TO KEEP ME STRAIGHT AND SIMPLY TIGHTEN THE NUT

AND INSERT THE NEW THREADS, STOPPING THE CRACK AND GIVING THE NEW STUDS A STRONGER CLAMPING AREA. THAT'S ALL THERE IS TO IT. THEN I JUST REPEAT THE PROCESS FOUR MORE TIMES. NOW I NEED TO START PULLING OUT ALL THE BAD SEATS USING A HOMEMADE HOOK AND A HAMMER. BUT WHOEVER PUT THESE IN AND DID THE VALVE JOB DID A GOOD ONE BECAUSE THERE'S NOWHERE TO GET A GOOD

LIP TO PULL IT OUT.

THIS IS ROUGH, THIS THING HAS DRAWN BLOOD TWICE TODAY. BUT ONCE THEY COME OUT WE CAN INSTALL THE FLATHEAD PILOT THAT FITS IN WHERE THE OLD FLOATING GUIDE USED TO BE. AND THEN THE NEW SEAT, THEN DRIVE IT IN WITH A BEARING ERASE DRIVER KEEPING THE SEAT CENTERED AND STRAIGHT. NOW WE'RE READY TO DO THE VALVE JOB, WHICH COULD MAKE OR BREAK THIS BUILD. SO I'M JUST TOUCHING UP THE SAME SIZE EXHAUST VALVE THAT'S AN INCH FIVE-20. BUT ON THE INTAKE SIDE I OPENED HER UP FOR AN INCH SIX-20 HEAD DIAMETER. NOW TO DO THIS I FIRST NEED TO GO INTO THE THROAT WITH A 70 DEGREE CUTTER AND MAKE SOME ROOM. THIS WILL ALLOW ME TO FIT THE NEW THREE ANGLE CUTTER IN AND KEEP ME FROM CRASHING ALL THE TOOLING. NEXT I NEED TO DO A DESHROUD CUT UP TOP. NOW THIS WILL HELP KEEP THE AREA AROUND THE VALVE CLEAR FOR AIR AND FUEL TO MOVE THROUGH BETTER. THEN I CAN CUT IN THE ACTUAL THREE ANGLE VALVE JOB FOR THE NEW LARGER HEAD DIAMETER ON THE VALVE. NOW I LIKE TO LAP THE VALVES AS I GO ALONG.

THIS WILL GIVE ME A CLEAR VISUAL OF WHERE THE SEAT AREA IS AND HOW CONCENTRIC EVERYTHING TURNED OUT. SO SHORT OF HONING THE MAINS AND THE CYLINDERS, WE'RE DONE HERE. WE'LL SEE YOU BACK IN THE SHOP.

(ANNOUNCER)>> NEXT WE'RE INSTALLING CAM BEARINGS!

(JOHN)>> SO FAR WE'VE COME FROM THIS TO THIS. IT'S FINALLY TIME TO GET THIS BLOCK PREPPED FOR ASSEMBLY. NOW THE STEPS WE'RE GONNA GO THROUGH WILL HELP EXTEND THIS FLATTY'S LIFE, MAKE IT A LITTLE BIT MORE EFFICIENT, AND HOPEFULLY MAKE US SOME MORE POWER. DEBURRING THE BLOCK HAS A FEW ADVANTAGES. BY REMOVING THE ROUGH EDGES AND CASTING FLASH WE'LL

ELIMINATE THE AREAS WHERE CRACKS LIKE TO START. NOW IT ALSO MAKES IT EASIER TO HANDLE THE BLOCK SINCE THE SHARP EDGES WILL BE GONE. BUT MY FAVORITE IS IT LOOKS A LOT BETTER WHEN THE BLOCK GETS PAINTED. NOW PAY ATTENTION TO THE OIL RETURN HOLES AS WELL. WITH JUST A LITTLE ATTENTION OIL WILL RETURN TO THE PAN FASTER, BECAUSE LETTING THE SUMP STARVE IS DEATH FOR A FLATHEAD. NOW TO PROMOTE BETTER COOLANT FLOW INTO THE BLOCK WE'LL CLEAN UP THE INLETS OF THE WATER PASSAGES AS WELL, AND THE PASSAGES OF THE DECK SURFACE. THE THROAT AREA OF THE INTAKE WAS OPENED UP

DURING THE VALVE JOB.

NOW THIS CAUSES A SHORT SIDE RADIUS TO HAVE A HARDER TRANSITION, WHICH RESTRICTS AIR FLOW. SO BY USING A GRINDER AND A CARTRIDGE ROLL WE'LL SMOOTH IT OUT TO INCREASE THE INTAKE RUNNER'S AIR FLOW. AND THE EXHAUST SIDE GETS THE SAME TREATMENT. WE'RE ALSO MAKING A SMOOTH TRANSITION FOR THE AIR FLOW TO COME THROUGH THE CURTAIN AREA, WHICH IS BETWEEN THE VALVE'S FACE AND THE VALVE'S SEAT WHEN IT'S OPEN.

(MIKE)>> WHILE JOHN CONTINUES PORTING, I'M USING A THREAD CHASER TO CLEAN EVERY TAPPED HOLE IN THE BLOCK.

THIS WILL MAKE SURE THE THREADS ARE CLEAN AND THE BOLTS ARE PROPERLY TORQUED DURING ASSEMBLY. NOW A QUICK SANDING JOB ON THE BLOCK'S GASKET SURFACES. THE DECK GETS 80 GRIT SAND PAPER FOR THE FIRST PASS. THIS WILL ADD SOME BITE FOR THE GASKET TO MAKE A GOOD SEAL. FOR THE SECOND PASS WE'LL USE 1,500 GRIT AND WET SAND

THE DECK TO SLIGHTLY SMOOTH THE SURFACE. IT SOUNDS CONTRADICTING BUT THIS WILL CAUSE THE GASKET INTO THE METAL BUT STILL SEAL. WE HAD OUR DOUBTS WHEN WE WERE TEARING THE ORIGINAL PISTONS OUT, BUT SEEING IT NOW AT 62 YEARS OLD, IT WAS WELL WORTH IT. FLATHEADS ARE KNOWN FOR RELEASING SAND FROM THE CASTING PROCESS EVEN AFTER SHOT PEENING.

SO WE'RE GOING TO SUBMERGE THE BLOCK IN OUR SONIC TANK TO ALLOW THE ULTRA SOUND WAVES TO RELEASE ANY MORE CONTAMINANTS FROM THE BLOCK.

AFTER THE FINAL WASH WE'LL BE READY TO ADD SOME COLOR ON THE INSIDE. NOW WE MADE SOME WOOD PLUGS OUT OF DOWEL TO PROTECT THE LIFTER BORES. WE'RE USING A RED INSULATING VARNISH. IT SHEDS OIL, WHICH PROMOTES FASTER OIL DRAIN BACK TO THE PAN. IT WON'T CHIP AND IT'S CHEMICAL RESISTANT. ON THE OUTSIDE A SMOOTH COAT OF DUPLICOLOR GRAY ENGINE PRIMER. THIS WILL GIVE US A GOOD BASE FOR THE FINAL COAT TO ADHERE TO. FOR THAT THEIR HIGH TEMP RED ENGINE ENAMEL WITH CERAMIC. NOW THE BLOCK WILL GET SEVERAL COATS TO GIVE IT A LOOK THAT ANY OLD TIMER WOULD APPROVE OF.

(JOHN)>> LOOKS LIKE PICASSO HIMSELF PAINTED THIS.

(MIKE)>> WITH THE BLOCK DRY, THE CAM BEARINGS ARE THE FIRST NEW PART TO BE USED. WE'LL USE OUR GOODSON BEARING SCRAPER TO DEBURR THE BEVEL ON EACH SIDE OF THE BEARING. DOING THIS ELIMINATES THE CHANCE OF ANY ROUGH EDGES BEING ROLLED INTO THE BEARING AS THE CAM IS INSTALLED. MAKING SURE THE OILING HOLES ARE ORIENTED CORRECTLY, TAP THE BEARING INTO PLACE. NOW WE CAN SPRAY A LIGHT COAT OF WD 40 ON THE CAM'S JOURNALS AND TEST FIT IT. NOW IF IT TURNS NICE AND EASY WITHOUT ANY TIGHT SPOTS, WE KNOW THE BEARINGS ARE IN STRAIT AND THE CAM'S LINE BORE IS STILL IN SPEC, AND IT IS.

(JOHN)>> WHOO, LOOK AT THAT, THAT'S WHAT WE'RE LOOKING FOR. NOW I KNOW INSTALLING CAM BEARINGS AND TEST FITTING CAM SHAFTS CAN BE PRETTY INTIMIDATING. I KNOW A LOT OF GUYS THAT NO MATTER HOW SLOW OR SOFT THEY TRY TO PUT THEM IN, THEY ALWAYS END UP WITH SOME KNICKS. WELL I DO TOO AND IT'S NOT THAT BIG OF A DEAL.

BELIEVE IT OR NOT THE BEARING IS A LOT STRONGER THAN YOU THINK IT IS. BUT IF THEY BOTHER YOU LIKE THEY DO ME, I'LL SHOW YOU A LITTLE TRICK. NOW WITH SOME LIGHT PRESSURE AND A LITTLE GRAY SCOTCHBRITE, JUST RUB IT UNTIL IT CLEANS UP. REMEMBER, IT'S NOT THE SIZE OF THE PEN, IT'S HOW YOU WRITE YOUR NAME WITH IT.

(MIKE)>> FLATHEADS ONLY USE ONE OIL GALLEY PLUG. IT'S LOCATED AT THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE.

OUT BACK THE NEW IDLER GEAR FOR THE OIL PUMP CAN BE INSTALLED AND COVERED WITH THE FACTORY PIECE. THAT'S ALL THE PARTS WE HAVE TO INSTALL. NOW THEY ARE STARTING TO TRICKLE IN, AND WHEN WE GET OUR LIST CHECKED OFF WE'LL CONTINUE TO BUILD THIS HISTORIC VEIGHT THAT STARTED THE

HOT RODDING CRAZE. IF YOUR ENGINE IS LOW ON POWER OR IF YOU'RE TAKING CARE OF THE MOSQUITO POPULATION IN YOUR NEIGHBORHOOD DUE TO OIL SMOKE, THIS IS FOR YOU.

IT'S SUMMIT RACING'S RERING KIT THAT GIVES YOU EVERYTHING YOU NEED FOR AN ENGINE FRESHEN UP. NOW THIS IS FOR A SMALL BLOCK CHEVY AND COMES WITH STANDARD ROD AND MAIN BEARINGS, A FOUR INCH CAST

IRON RING SET, AND ALL THE GASKETS YOU NEED FOR REASSEMBLY. NOW AT $88 BUCKS WHAT ARE YOU WAITING ON. WE SHOWED YOU A BUNCH OF TIPS AND TRICKS TO DO TO YOUR BLOCK. SO GET MOTIVATED, GET IN THE GARAGE, AND GET IT DONE.

(JOHN)>> HAVING THE BEST TOOLS HERE IN THE SHOP REALLY MAKES OUR LIFE A LOT EASIER, AND MATCO HAS GONE ONE STEP FURTHER WITH THEIR NEW DUAL OFF SET COMBINATION WRENCH SET. NOW THIS IS A METRIC KIT THAT GIVES YOU SIZES FROM EIGHT MILLIMETER TO 19 MILLIMETER. THEY WERE DESIGNED FOR IMPROVED ACCESS IN TIGHT AREAS WITH A NARROWER OPENED END AND A 30 INDEX, AND A BOX END THAT'S INDEXED AT 15 DEGREES. NOW THEY STILL WORK ON THE STANDARD SIX AND 12 POINT FASTENERS, BUT THEY'LL ALSO GRAB A HOLD OF A TORX, SPLINED, OR SQUARE HEAD FASTENER.

NOW THE BEST PART ABOUT THESE GUYS IS YOU COULD HAVE A NUT OR A BOLT THAT'S ROUNDED OFF UP TO 70 PERCENT, THESE THINGS WILL STILL GRAB A HOLD AND TAKE IT OUT. SO IF YOU'RE INTERESTED GET A HOLD OF YOUR LOCAL MATCO DEALER.

(MIKE)>> HOW WOULD YOU LIKE YOUR RACING CARBURETOR TO PERFORM AT OPTIMUM LEVEL AND YOUR ENGINE MAKE MAXIMUM HORSEPOWER? WELL NOW YOU CAN WITH RTWOC PERFORMANCE'S CFD 41-50 AIR CLEANER BASES. NOW THIS THING IS DESIGNED TO IMPROVE THE AIR FLOW ENTRY INTO A 4150 CARBURETOR, REDUCE RESTRICTIONS, AND GIVE A STRONGER AND MORE CONSISTENT BOOSTER SIGNAL. NOW IT'S DESIGNED TO RUN ON LATE MODEL AND MODIFIED RACING ENGINES, COMES WITH THREE DIFFERENT CARBURETOR BASES, AND ONE 14 INCH AIR CLEANER BASE. YOU CAN PICK YOURS UP AT SUMMIT RACING FOR RIGHT AT $230 BUCKS. WELL THAT'S IT FOR THIS WEEK, WE'LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME.