Ford Model A Truck Chassis

(NARRATOR)>> WHAT'S OLD AND WORN OUT BECOMES NEW AGAIN. THE GUYS START THE REBIRTH OF THEIR FORD MODELA PICK UP, AND SOURCE A TRADITIONAL MODERN CHASSIS TO KEEP IT TRUE TO THE ERA. ALL THAT AND MORE TODAY ON TRUCK TECH.

(JEREMY)>> IT'S ALWAYS A GREAT DAY WHEN YOU GET TO CRACK THE SEAL ON A NEW PROJECT, AND TODAY IS ONE OF THOSE DAYS.

(LT)>> I'M SUPER EXCITED! OVERALL WE'VE BEEN VERY FORTUNATE TO WORK ON A WIDE VARIETY OF PROJECTS HERE. I MEAN OVER THE LAST COUPLE YEARS WE'VE BUILT SOME STREET TRUCKS, SOME OFF ROADERS, WE'VE EVEN BUILT A BAGGED PATINA C-10, AND A SHOW WINNING CLASSIC '55 F-100.

(JEREMY)>> AND OUR LATEST PROJECT IS PROBABLY THE OLDEST THING TO EVER COME INTO TRUCK TECH.

(LT)>> THAT'S RIGHT, OUR 1930 FORD MODELA IS 87 YEARS OLD, AND IT'S GONNA GET THE TRUCK TECH TREATMENT.

(JEREMY)>> WHEN IT ROLLED IN WE IMMEDIATELY GOT THE FLATHEAD RUNNING, BUT SINCE THEN IT'S BEEN COLLECTING DUST IN THE WAREHOUSE, BUT THAT ALL CHANGES TODAY BECAUSE?

(LT)>> PARTS HAVE ARRIVED, BUT FIRST THINGS FIRST THOUGH. WITH A CANVAS AS ICONIC AS THE MODELA WE REALLY HAVE TO HAVE A SOLID PLAN AND VISION FOR WHERE WE WANT TO END UP BECAUSE THERE ARE SO MANY DIFFERENT WAYS WE COULD BUILD THAT TRUCK.

(JEREMY)>> YEAH WE COULD DO AN ORIGINAL MODELA BUILD, WE COULD GO THE '50'S STYLE, ADD A BLOWER, FLAMES ALL OVER IT, OR WE COULD LEAVE IT JUST LIKE IT SITS AND BUILD A RAT ROD, AND THEY'RE ALL REALLY COOL BUT WE'RE GONNA BUILD SOMETHING LIKE THIS, A LITTLE MIX OF EACH ONE OF THEM.

(LT)>> NOW WITH A SOLID PLAN IN PLACE WE NEED A FOUNDATION TO START OUR BUILD FROM BECAUSE THAT OLD CHASSIS JUST ISN'T GONNA CUT IT FOR WHAT WE HAVE IN MIND.

(JEREMY)>> YEAH WE'LL BE ADDING QUITE A BIT OF POWER TO THIS THING, AND THAT 87 YEAR OLD CHASSIS IS NOT STRONG ENOUGH TO HANDLE WHAT WE'RE GONNA THROW AT IT. SO WE NEED TO START OVER, AND REMEMBER, THAT FRAME UNDER THE MODELA RIGHT NOW WAS ONLY BUILT TO WITHSTAND ABOUT 40 HORSEPOWER.

(LT)>> RATHER THAN TAKING A WHOLE BUNCH OF TIME AND HAND BUILDING OUR OWN FRAME WE MADE A SINGLE PHONE CALL TO PETE AND JAKE'S HOT ROD PARTS IN MISSOURI. THEY'VE BEEN AROUND SINCE THE EARLY '70'S HAND BUILDING HOT ROD SUSPENSION COMPONENTS RIGHT HERE IN THE USA. THEY SENT US EVERYTHING THAT WE'LL NEED TO MAKE UP A COMPLETE MODELA ROLLING CHASSIS, LIKE THIS HOT SHOE HOT ROD'S FRAME. THIS THING, AGAIN, IS MADE IN THE USA, AND QUALITY IS EVIDENT. IT COMES WITH EVERYTHING YOU'LL NEED READY TO BE BOLTED TOGETHER, LIKE THE FRONT UPPER SHOCK MOUNTS, A CHEVY VEGA STYLE STEERING BOX MOUNT, PLUS THE FRONT LOWER HAIR PIN MOUNTS ALREADY WELDED IN PLACE. IT ALSO COMES WITH A BRACKET FOR A BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER AND BRAKE PEDAL PIVOT SO YOU DON'T HAVE TO DO ANY THINKING. TOWARDS THE REAR IT COMES WITH A CROSS MEMBER AND TABS FOR THE REAR TRAILING ARMS, PLUS MOUNTS FOR THE PAN HARD BAR AND THE REAR COIL OVERS ALREADY INSTALLED. THE FRAME HAS BEEN TIG WELDED FOR SUPERIOR STRENGTH. THEN GROUND SMOOTH FOR GOOD LOOKS. USUALLY A FRAME LIKE THIS WILL COME WITH MOTOR MOUNTS FOR A SMALL BLOCK CHEVY OR A SMALL BLOCK FORD, BUT WE PLAN ON RUNNING A LITTLE BIT OF A NONTRADITIONAL POWER PLANT. SO WE ASKED THEM TO LEAVE THE MOTOR MOUNTS OFF. NOW THIS FRAME HAS BEEN BOXED FOR HIGH STRENGTH AND IS GONNA BE A MUCH BETTER STARTING POINT FOR OUR PROJECT THAN THAT 87 YEAR OLD ORIGINAL.

(JEREMY)>> WHAT'S NICE ABOUT PETE AND JAKE'S IS ONE PART NUMBER GETS YOU EVERYTHING YOU SEE HERE INCLUDING THE FRAME BECAUSE IF YOU HAVE EVER BUILT A HOT ROD BEFORE YOU KNOW HOW HARD AND TIME CONSUMING IT CAN BE TO PIECE ALL OF THIS TOGETHER. JUST LIKE IF YOU HAVE A FRAME THAT HAS NO MOUNTS. WELL THEN YOU'RE GONNA TAKE THE CAB, AND YOU'RE GONNA MOUNT IT MULTIPLE TIMES TO FIND YOUR MOUNTING LOCATIONS, OR LET'S SAY WHAT SPRING DO YOU WANT TO RUN? WHAT AXLE, WHAT SPRING PERCHES WORK WITH THAT SPRING AND AXLE? I MEAN YOU CAN SPEND HOURS AND HOURS JUST TRYING TO FIGURE OUT WHAT PARTS WORK TOGETHER, AND WHAT'S RIGHT FOR YOUR BUILD. UP FRONT FOR US WE HAVE A SUPER BELL FOUR INCH DROP IBEAM AXLE, A SET OF HAIR PINS, AND BAT WINGS, SUPER BELL SPINDLES WITH THE BUSHINGS ALREADY INSTALLED, A KING PIN KIT, VEGA STEERING BOX WITH ALL OF THE STEERING COMPONENTS, A POSEY FRONT SPRING, LOWER SHOCK MOUNTS AND SHOCKS, AND YOU CAN GET A LOT OF THIS IN CHROME IF YOU DECIDE TO GO THAT ROUTE. NOW WE ALSO HAVE A DISC BRAKE KIT. WE GRABBED THE ROTORS, BRAKE PADS, CALIPERS, AND A MASTER CYLINDER, EVERYTHING WE NEED TO MAKE THE FRONT OF THIS MODELA ROLL AND STOP.

(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT, ASSEMBLY STARTS AT THE FRONT WITH A TRADITIONAL LEAF SPRING.

(JEREMY)>> OUR FRAME IS READY TO GO RIGHT OUT OF THE CRATE, BUT WE'RE A LONG WAY FROM HAVING A ROLLING CHASSIS. THE POSEY FRONT SPRING SITS INSIDE THE FRONT CROSS MEMBER AND ATTACHES WITH THE SPRING BRACKET. NEXT WE ATTACH THE HAIR PIN, WHICH IS ALSO KNOWN AS A RADIUS ARM, TO THE PIVOTS THAT ARE WELDED TO THE FRAME. NEXT WE'LL SLIDE THE SUPER BELL DROP IBEAM AXLE UNDERNEATH THE FRAME, AND SET IT INSIDE EACH BAT WING. SLIDING THE SPRING PERCHES THROUGH THE AXLE, AND FINALLY ATTACHING THE LOWER SHOCK MOUNT.

(LT)>> WE'LL LUBE THE PETE AND JAKE'S SHACKLE WITH SOME PETROLEUM JELLY, RAISE UP THE AXLE, AND CONNECT IT TO THE LEAF SPRINGS. THE URETHANE BUSHINGS ENSURE THE SUSPENSION WILL REMAIN QUIET. WE'LL FINISH UP BY CONNECTING THE SHOCK ABSORBERS.

(JEREMY)>> NOW WE'RE READY TO ATTACH THE SPINDLE TO THE FRONT END. NOW THIS IS PROBABLY A LITTLE DIFFERENT THAN WHAT YOU'RE USED TO SEEING BECAUSE ON MODERN VEHICLES A SPINDLE ATTACHES TO AN UPPER AND LOWER CONTROL ARM THAT USES BALL JOINTS, BUT ON OLD STYLE SETUP LIKE THIS THE SPINDLE ATTACHES USING A KING PIN. I'M GONNA SHOW YOU HOW TO PUT IT TOGETHER. FIRST INSTALL THE WASHER AND THE FELT WASHER ON THE KING PIN. THE FELT WASHER WILL RETAIN THE GREASE AND NOT LET IT ESCAPE. WE'RE NOT ADDING ANY GREASE JUST YET THOUGH SINCE WE PLAN TO TAKE IT APART FOR PAINT. NEXT PUT THE BEARING IN THE SPINDLE. THEN PUT THE SPINDLE INTO PLACE AND REMEMBER THE GREASE FITTINGS ALWAYS FACE FORWARD. NOW THE KING PIN. YOU'LL NOTICE THE KING PIN HAS A NOTCH IN IT, AND THIS GOES TOWARD THE FRAME. LAST IS TO INSTALL THE RETAINER, AND THAT'S ALL THERE IS TO IT.

(LT)>> WE'VE GOT PRETTY MUCH THE WHOLE FRONT SUSPENSION PUT TOGETHER BUT THE ONLY THING WE'RE MISSING IS A WAY TO KEEP THE FRONT AXLE PERFECTLY CENTERED IN THE FRAME, AND THAT'S WHERE THE PAN HARD BAR COMES IN. IT ATTACHES ON THE FRAME END WITH A URETHANE BUSHING, AND ON THE OTHER SIDE THE BAT WING ATTACHES WITH A SPHERICAL ROD END.

NEXT UP WE'LL INSTALL THE TIE ROD ONTO EACH SPINDLE.

(JEREMY)>> THERE YOU GO SIR.

(LT)>> ALL RIGHTY.

THEN WE CAN ATTACH THE PITMAN ARM TO THE STEERING BOX, AND MOUNT THE STEERING BOX ONTO THE FRAME. LASTLY THE DRAG LINK WILL CONNECT THE PITMAN ARM TO THE PASSENGER SIDE SPINDLE.

(JEREMY)>> STEERING!

(LT)>> DONE!

(JEREMY)>> NOT QUITE YET. WE'VE STILL GOT THE ROTORS AND BRAKES. NOW I KNOW SOME OF YOU LOOK AT THIS CHASSIS AND YOU THINK THAT IT LOOKS A LITTLE PRIMITIVE, BUT BELIEVE ME THIS IS A HUGE UPGRADE OVER THAT STOCK MODELA CHASSIS. EVERYTHING'S BEEN MODERNIZED AND UPGRADED TO RIDE AND HANDLE SO MUCH BETTER, BUT FOR YOU GUYS WITH BIG MODERN TRUCKS I KNOW YOU LOOK AT THIS AND THINK THAT IT LOOKS SMALL, BUT THAT'S BECAUSE YOU'RE USED TO SEEING PARTS LIKE THIS UNDER YOUR 7,000 POUND TRUCK, BUT OUR MODELA IS ONLY GONNA WEIGH ABOUT A COUPLE OF THOUSAND POUNDS. SO THIS IS MORE THAN STRONG ENOUGH.

(NARRATOR)>> NEXT ONTO THE REAR.

(LT)>> WHEN IT COMES TO BUILDING THE REAR END OF YOUR HOT ROD THERE'S A TON OF DIFFERENT OPTIONS OUT THERE. YOU COULD START WITH EITHER AN INDEPENDENT REAR SUSPENSION OR A SOLID REAR AXLE THAT'S HELD IN PLACE WITH EITHER A PARALLEL FOUR LINK, TRIANGULATED FOUR LINK, LADDER BARS, OR HECK EVEN OLD SCHOOL LEAF SPRINGS. NOW WHEN IT COMES TO CHOOSING AN AXLE THERE'S ALSO A LOT OF OPTIONS, BUT THE FORD NINE INCH IS DEFINITELY THE MOST POPULAR BECAUSE OF ITS HIGH STRENGTH, AND THERE ARE ARGUABLY MORE GEAR RATIOS AVAILABLE FOR IT THAN ANY OTHER DIFFERENTIAL ON THE MARKET. PETE AND JAKE'S HOOKED US UP WITH THIS JOHN'S INDUSTRIES NINE INCH AXLE THAT'S 100 PERCENT COMPLETE, READY TO BE BOLTED UNDERNEATH THE TRUCK. THE HOUSING COMES WITH THE LADDER BAR MOUNTS ALREADY WELDED IN PLACE IN THE CORRECT GEOMETRY, AS WELL AS THE LOWER COIL OVER MOUNTS. WE ALSO GOT A SET OF 31 SPLINE AXLES CUT TO LENGTH WITH THE WHEEL BEARINGS AND SEALS ALREADY PRESSED INTO PLACE. NOW THE THIRD MEMBER COMES WITH A RING AND PINION ALREADY INSTALLED. SO THE PINION DEPTH IS CORRECT AS WELL AS THE BACK LASH. IT TAKES OUT ALL THE GUESS WORK. WE CHOSE TO GO WITH A THREE POINT ZEROZERO TO ONE RING AND PINION RATIO. NOW THAT'LL GIVE OUR LIGHTWEIGHT MODELA A GREAT BLEND BETWEEN ACCELERATION AND HIGHWAY CRUISING RPM. THIS WHOLE AXLE WILL BE HELD IN PLACE BY THE PETE AND JAKE'S LADDER BARS AS WELL AS THE PAN HARD BAR, AND IT WILL BE SUSPENDED BY THESE ALDAN ADJUSTABLE COIL OVERS WITH SPRING RATES THAT HAVE BEEN OPTIMIZED FOR THAT LIGHTWEIGHT FORD MODELA. WE'RE GONNA GET STARTED BY HANGING THIS AXLE HOUSING. WE'LL SLIDE THE AXLE INTO POSITION UNDERNEATH THE CHASSIS, AND ATTACH THE COIL OVERS INTO THE FRAME MOUNTS. THEN, WHICH HOLE?

(JEREMY)>> BOTTOM HOLE, LOW AS WE CAN GO.

(LT)>> LOW AS IT CAN GO. LIFT THE AXLE SO IT'S SUSPENDED BY THE SPRINGS.

(JEREMY)>> NEXT WE'LL MOUNT THE LADDER BARS TO THE REAR AXLE AND TO THE CROSS MEMBER. IT'S EASY TO SEE HOW WELL THE CHASSIS IS ENGINEERED BY HOW EASILY IT'S BOLTING TOGETHER. EVERYTHING LINES UP PERFECTLY WITH NO TWEAKING OR ADJUSTING NEEDED.

(LT)>> BEFORE INSTALLING OUR THIRD MEMBER INTO THE REAR AXLE WE NEED TO MAKE SURE WE GET A PERFECT SEAL. SO WE'RE USING PERMATEX OPTIMUM GRAY GASKET MAKER. THIS IS A HIGH PERFORMANCE SEALANT THAT'S PERFECT FOR OUR AXLE BECAUSE IT'LL WITHSTAND TEMPS UP TO 700 DEGREES, AND IT'S GREAT FOR AREAS WITH HIGH VIBRATIONS. A QUARTER INCH BEAD IS APPLIED TO ONE SURFACE SURROUNDING ALL THE BOLT HOLES. IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO INSTALL THE THIRD MEMBER WHILE THE PERMATEX IS STILL WET, AND WE'LL GIVE IT ABOUT AN HOUR BEFORE TORQUEING THE BOLTS, AND 24 HOURS BEFORE ADDING ANY FLUID.

(JEREMY)>> OUR COMPLETE HOT ROD ROLLING CHASSIS FEATURES DISC BRAKES UP FRONT AND DRUMS IN THE REAR. FOR THE DRUMS WE HAVE THE BACKING PLATE, WHEEL CYLINDERS, SHOES, ADJUSTORS, AND SPRINGS ALREADY INSTALLED, ALONG WITH THE DRUMS. SOMETHING WE HAVEN'T TALKED ABOUT ARE THE DIFFERENCES IN DISCS AND DRUM BRAKES AND HOW THEY WORK. WITH DISC BRAKES, WHEN YOU PRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL, FLUID TRAVELS TO THE CALIPER AND MOVES THIS PISTON. THAT SQUEEZES THE BRAKE PADS TOGETHER AGAINST THE ROTOR, WHICH CAUSES DRAG, MAKING YOU STOP. ONE ADVANTAGE TO RUNNING DISC BRAKES IS THAT HEAT DISSIPATES RATHER QUICKLY, WHICH MEANS THEY DON'T WEAR OUT QUITE AS FAST. NOW THE WAY DRUM BRAKES WORK IS WHEN YOU PRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL FLUID TRAVELS TO THIS WHEEL CYLINDER. IT PUSHES THESE ARMS OUT, WHICH PUSHES THE SHOES OUT AGAINST THE INSIDE OF THE DRUM. THAT CREATES DRAG AND MAKES YOU STOP. NOW THESE DO CREATE A LITTLE MORE HEAT AND THEY WEAR OUT A LITTLE FASTER, BUT 70 PERCENT OF YOUR STOPPING POWER IS UP FRONT. THAT'S WHY WE RUN DISCS, AND 30 PERCENT IS IN THE REAR, AND THIS IS THE WAY THE FACTORY RAN IT FOR YEARS, AND WITH OUR MODELA ONLY BEING A COUPLE THOUSAND POUNDS THIS THING'S GONNA STOP IN A HURRY.

(LT)>> WHEN IT COMES TO BUILDING YOUR VEHICLE PLUMBING IS ONE OF THE MORE IMPORTANT STEPS THAT YOU JUST CAN'T SKIP OUT ON. I MEAN THINK OF ALL THE FLUIDS IT TAKES TO MAKE YOUR VEHICLE RUN PROPERLY. YOU'VE GOT ENGINE OIL, TRANSMISSION FLUID, COOLANT, BRAKE FLUID, AND A WHOLE BUNCH MORE. SO TODAY WE'RE GONNA TALK ABOUT SOME OF THE HOSES AND CONNECTIONS IT TAKES TO MAKE YOUR TRUCK RUN PROPERLY, AND WE'LL START WITH THE MOST BASIC, AND THAT'S JUST A SIMPLE RUBBER HOSE. THIS IS A FUEL LINE THAT MOST CARBURETED VEHICLES WOULD RUN. IT'S LIGHTWEIGHT, INEXPENSIVE, AND SUPER EASY TO CONNECT. JUST CUT THE HOSE TO LENGTH, SLIDE IT OVER A BARBED FITTING, AND SECURE IT WITH A HOSE CLAMP. NOW THIS TYPE OF HOSE AND CONNECTION ARE BEST USED IN LOW PRESSURE APPLICATIONS, TYPICALLY LESS THAN 20 PSI. NOW YOU CAN GET SOME FUEL INJECTION RATED RUBBER HOSE THAT'S GOOD FOR ABOUT 75 TO 80. IT'S JUST A LITTLE BIT MORE EXPENSIVE. NOW THE NEXT STEP UP WOULD BE A PUSH LOCK STYLE HOSE. NOW IT FUNCTIONS AND ASSEMBLES JUST LIKE A LOW PRESSURE FITTING, BUT IT'S GOOD FOR ABOUT 250 PSI. NOW THIS IS BEST USED IN A DIESEL FUEL SYSTEM, AN ENGINE OIL COOLER, OR A TRANSMISSION FLUID COOLER. TYPICALLY ANYWHERE YOU HAVE A LITTLE BIT HIGH PRESSURE AND LITTLE BIT HIGHER TEMPERATURE. HERE'S HOW IT GOES TOGETHER. YOU JUST CUT THE HOSE TO LENGTH AND SLIDE IT INSIDE THE BARBED FITTING. IT DOES TAKE QUITE A BIT OF FORCE TO SLIDE THE FITTING ALL THE WAY INSIDE THE HOSE. IT'S IMPORTANT TO NOTE, THE BARBS ARE SPECIFIC TO THE PUSH LOCK STYLE OF CONNECTION AND DO NOT REQUIRE A HOSE CLAMP. WHEN PLUMBING PROJECTS AT TRUCK TECH WE LIKE TO USE AN STYLE FITTINGS AND HOSES WHEREVER POSSIBLE. THEY'RE USUALLY MADE FROM ALUMINUM AND ARE AVAILABLE IN A WIDE VARIETY OF SIZES AND COLORS. PLUS DEPENDING ON THE HOSE THEY CAN BE RATED AT OVER 600 PSI, AND THEY LOOK MUCH NICER WHEN THEY'RE FULLY INSTALLED. HERE'S HOW THEY GO TOGETHER. FIRST WRAP THE HOSE WITH MASKING TAPE WHERE YOU WANT TO MAKE THE CUT. THEN USE AN ABRASIVE WHEEL TO CUT THROUGH THE HOSE. THE TAPE WILL PREVENT THE OUTER BRAIDED LAYER FROM FRAYING. NEXT DISASSEMBLE THE FITTING, PEEL OFF THE TAPE, AND SLIDE THE COLLAR ONTO THE END OF THE HOSE. MAKE SURE THE HOSE STOPS SHORT OF THE END OF THE THREADS INSIDE THE COLLAR. LUBE THE FITTING, SLIDE IT INSIDE THE HOSE, AND START TO THREAD THEM TOGETHER. IT'S IMPORTANT TO MAKE SURE YOU TURN THE END OF THE FITTING AND NOT THE COLLAR. ONCE IT'S TIGHT, I LIKE TO USE A ZIP TIE TO DOUBLE CHECK THAT THE END OF THE HOSE HASN'T COLLAPSED. NOW WE'RE REALLY JUST SCRATCHING THE SURFACE. THERE ARE MANY TYPES OF ADAPTERS OUT THERE FOR THINGS LIKE AIR CONDITIONING AND FACTORY FUEL SYSTEMS, BUT THESE THREE METHODS, THE LOW PRESSURE, PUSH LOCK, AND AN, WILL LET US PLUMB JUST ABOUT ANY ENGINE OR TRANSMISSION.

(NARRATOR)>> AFTER THE BREAK WE'RE BACK ON THE MODELA FOR BRAKES.

(JEREMY)>> WE'RE BACK ON TRUCK TECH TURNING OUR PETE AND JAKE'S CHASSIS INTO A ROLLER. THE BACKING PLATES SLIDE ONTO THE END OF THE AXLE HOUSING, AND THE AXLE SHAFT SLIDES THROUGH. WE'LL LUBRICATE THE ORING ON THE BEARING SO IT DOESN'T TEAR, AND USE A BLOCK OF WOOD AND A HAMMER TO FULLY SEAT THE BEARING INTO THE HOUSING. THE BEARING RETAINER IS LOCKED DOWN WITH FOUR BOLTS. THE REAR IS FINISHED UP BY SLIDING ON THE BRAKE DRUMS.

(LT)>> WE FIRST NEED TO PACK THE BEARINGS BEFORE WE CAN MOVE ONTO THE FRONT. GREASE IS WORKED INTO THE INNER BY HAND, MAKING SURE ALL THE ROLLERS ARE FULLY COATED. A DAB OF GREASE GOES INSIDE THE HUB. THEN THE BEARING CAN BE SET AND THE SEAL INSTALLED.

THE ROTOR SLIDES ONTO THE SPINDLE, AND I CAN SET THE PRELOAD ON THE WHEEL BEARING.

(JEREMY)>> I'LL TELL YOU WHAT I DO, AND THEN YOU TELL ME WHAT YOU DO.

(LT)>> WHAT'D YOU DO? [ Jeremy laughing ]

(JEREMY)>> I PUT MINE ON.

(LT)>> NEVER FORGET THE WASHER.

NEXT THE CALIPER AND PADS SLIDE ON AND ARE BOLTED INTO PLACE, FINISHING UP THE FRONT END.

(JEREMY)>> OKAY WE'VE GOT THE FRONT END ALL ASSEMBLED. WE'VE GOT THE BACK END FINISHED UP. THE LAST PIECE TO THE PUZZLE.

(LT)>> SO WE DON'T GET TO BUILD A WHOLE LOT OF STREET RODS IN HERE. IS THAT PRETTY NORMAL TO MOUNT THE MASTER CYLINDER LIKE THAT?

(JEREMY)>> YEAH IT IS. YOU KNOW, THEY DID THIS FROM THE FACTORY FOR YEARS. SOME VEHICLES ALL THE WAY UP THROUGH THE '50'S, AND YOU KNOW, WE'RE USED TO SEEING THEM ON THE FIREWALL. WELL LATER ON THESE HOT RODDERS REALIZED THAT IT LOOKS REALLY CLEAN HAVING NOTHING ON THE FIREWALL. SO THEY STARTED MOUNTING THEM BACK DOWN HERE AGAIN, WHICH IS WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO.

(LT)>> SO LET ME GUESS, A BIG HOLE IN THE FLOOR TO FILL IT UP?

(JEREMY)>> YEAH WE'LL MAKE A NICE LITTLE ACCESS PANEL AND YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO GET TO IT PRETTY EASY.

(LT)>> ALL RIGHT, WELL, LET'S PUT SOME TIRES ON.

(JEREMY)>> BUT FIRST THE BRAKE PEDAL GOES INTO PLACE. THEN WE'LL SWING THE BRAKE ROD INTO THE MASTER CYLINDER AND ONE NUT SECURES IT. THIS CHASSIS WENT TOGETHER SUPER EASY AND EVERYTHING FIT REALLY WELL. NOW YOU'LL NOTICE YOU DIDN'T SEE US TORQUEING ANYTHING DOWN BECAUSE WE PLAN TO BLOW THIS THING BACK APART. WE'RE GONNA HAVE A TON OF TIME IN GETTING THIS FRAME PREPPED FOR PAINT. WE DON'T WANT TO TAKE THE CHANCE TO SCRATCH ANYTHING. SO THE FIRST STEPS WE WANT TO TAKE ON A NEW PROJECT IS MOCKING EVERYTHING UP. WE STILL NEED TO FIGURE OUT WHAT ENGINE WE WANT TO RUN, GET THAT FIT IN THERE, GET THE CAB ON, THE BED, AND ALL THAT STUFF. SO WHENEVER WE START A NEW PROJECT THIS IS WHERE WE BEGIN.

(LT)>> IT TOOK A WHOLE BUNCH OF PARTS TO TRANSFORM THIS MODELA FRAME INTO A ROLLING CHASSIS. WE STARTED UP FRONT WITH A POSEY SUPER SLIDE SPRING THAT'LL GIVE TRUCK A NICE, COMFORTABLE RIDE AND GREAT HANDLING WHEN COMBINED WITH THE URETHANE BUSHINGS. YOU GUYS HAVE PROBABLY HEARD OF THE CHEVY VEGA. THE CAR, GARBAGE, BUT THE STEERING BOX WORKS GREAT IN A LIGHTWEIGHT HOT ROD APPLICATION LIKE THIS. IT'LL GIVE US A NICE, TIGHT STEERING CIRCLE. PLUS IT'LL GIVE YOU GREAT ROAD FEEDBACK. PLUS YOU DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT MESSING AROUND WITH A POWER STEERING PUMP AND LINES. NOW THIS CHASSIS IS MADE IN THE USA AND QUALITY IS EVERYWHERE. PLUS YOU CAN PICK UP THIS ENTIRE THING, MINUS THE WHEELS AND TIRES OF COURSE, FROM PETE AND JAKE'S FOR JUST UNDER $7,000 BUCKS. IT'LL GIVE US A NICE, STRONG FOUNDATION FOR THAT MODELA HOT ROD.

(JEREMY)>> ROUTINE MAINTENANCE FOR ANY ENGINE MEANS CHANGING THE OIL AND SWAPPING THE FILTER AT REGULAR INTERVALS. TO KEEP YOUR ENGINE FREE OF UNWANTED DEPOSITS POUR IN A QUART OF MOTOR MEDIC MOTOR FLUSH BEFORE YOU DRAIN YOUR OIL. START YOUR ENGINE AND LET IT IDLE. MOTOR MEDIC WORKS IN JUST FIVE MINUTES AND CIRCULATES THROUGH THE ENTIRE LUBRICATING SYSTEM, DISSOLVING ENGINE SLUDGE, GUMS, AND VARNISHES FROM THE ENGINE AND OIL PAN. FOR LESS THAN FIVE BUCKS A QUART IT'S CHEAP INSURANCE.

(LT)>> IF YOU OWN A '68 TO '72 CHEVY EL CAMINO THEN YOU KNOW HOW HARD IT CAN BE TO FIND QUALITY REPRODUCTION TRIM PIECES THAT ACTUALLY FIT. OPGI HAS YOU COVERED. THIS IS THEIR DELUXE BED SURROUND MOLDING KIT. THE RAILS ARE MADE FROM BRIGHT STAINLESS STEEL CONSTRUCTION, AND THE CORNER PIECES ARE MADE FROM DIE CAST ZINC THAT HAVE THEN BEEN CHROME PLATED FOR THAT SHOWROOM SHINE. PLUS IT COMES WITH ALL THE NECESSARY OEM STYLE INSTALLATION HARDWARE SO YOU'RE NOT CHASING PARTS. VISIT OPGI DOT COM FOR MORE.

(JEREMY)>> IF YOU OWN A PICK UP OR SUV YOU KNOW THAT ROCK CHIPS ARE AN INEVITABLE ROAD HAZARD, ESPECIALLY DOWN LOW ON YOUR BUMPER AND ROCKER PANELS. THIS IS DUPLICOLOR ROCKER GUARD. A SPRAY ON PROTECTIVE COATING THAT'S APPLIED DIRECTLY OVER PAINT AND PLASTIC TRIM. NO PRIMING NEEDED. JUST MASK OFF YOUR ROCKS, CLEAN WITH WAX AND GREASE REMOVER, AND LAY DOWN A FEW COATS. DUPLICOLOR ROCKER GUARD COMES IN CLEAR OR BLACK, AND IS AVAILABLE AT YOUR FAVORITE AUTOMOTIVE RETAILER. THANKS FOR WATCHING TRUCK TECH, WE'LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME.