NighTrain: Suspension

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY WE'RE MAKING MORE PROGRESS ON PROJECT NIGHTRAIN.

WE'RE GIVING OUR DURAMAX POWERED CHEVY 1500 A MUCH BETTER STANCE WITH A TWOFOUR DROP. THEN ADDING A DANA 60 REAR END TO HANDLE ALL THE

TORQUE FROM OUR NEWLY TRANSPLANTED DIESEL. AND WE'LL ALSO SHOW YOU HOW WE MADE ROOM UNDER THE

CAB FOR AN ALLISON 1,000 TRANSMISSION. FINALLY WE'RE SHOEING IT WITH SOME NEW WHEELS AND TIRES. IT'S ALL TODAY HERE ON TRUCK TECH.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO TRUCK TECH. TODAY WE'VE GOT NIGHTRAIN BACK IN THE SHOP. IT'S OUR '87 CHEVY 1500 WITH A SWAPPED IN DURAMAX DIESEL AND ALLISON AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION COMBO. NOW THIS PROJECT'S COMING ALONG PRETTY GOOD. WE'VE GOT THE DRIVETRAIN IN IT, THE TRUCK'S BEEN FRESHENED UP A LITTLE BIT, IT'S LOOKING A LITTLE BIT BETTER. BUT WE WANT TO CONTINUE THAT THEME AND MAKE IT EVEN LOOK BETTER YET. WE WANT TO LOWER THIS TRUCK A FEW INCHES, GETTING IT SITTING A LITTLE CLOSER TO THE GROUND, AND WE'LL THROW IN SOME PROJECT APPROPRIATE TIRES AND WHEELS.

(JEREMY)>> NOW TO GET THAT LOWER STANCE WE'RE GOING FOR WE WENT OVER TO OUR BUDDIES AT SUMMIT RACING AND PICKED UP A FEW PARTS. FOR THE FRONT WE WENT WITH TWO INCH DROP SPINDLES, AND IN THE REAR WE DECIDED TO DROP IT FOUR INCHES WITH A PAIR OF SHACKLES AND HANGERS, WHICH WILL DEFINITELY HELP THE LOOKS OF THE TRUCK ALONG WITH THE WAY IT HANDLES. AND FOR BRAKES WE WENT TO WILWOOD AND PICKED

UP AN ENTIRE KIT.

WE WENT WITH 14 INCH ROTORS IN THE FRONT WITH A SIX PISTON CALIPER ALONG WITH A SET OF HUBS. AND IN THE REAR WE WENT WITH JUST SHY OF A 13 INCH ROTOR WITH A FOUR PISTON CALIPER. IT COMES WITH ALL THE BRAKE PADS AND HARDWARE TO

INSTALL, AND THEY EVEN SEND YOU A BOX OF BRAKE FLUID.

I'LL BE HAPPY NOT TO SEE THESE WHEELS ANYMORE. DISASSEMBLY IS PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWARD. FIRST WE'LL START BY REMOVING THE CALIPER WITH THE BRAKE PADS, FOLLOWED BY THE COTTER PIN AND ALL THE HARDWARE.

THEN WE'LL GIVE THE SPINDLE A COUPLE OF WHACKS AT THE TIE ROD END, GET THAT REMOVED, AND THEN WE'LL LOOSEN UP ALL THE BOLTS AT THE CONTROL ARMS AND REMOVE THE ENTIRE SPINDLE ASSEMBLY AS ONE UNIT. THEN WE THROW IT IN THE SCRAP. NOW SINCE WE'RE PUTTING ON ALL THESE NEW SHINY PARTS, WE FIGURED SINCE WE WERE IN HERE WE'D GO AHEAD AND GET ALL THIS MESS CLEANED UP AND GET A FRESH COAT OF PAINT ON EVERYTHING, AND THAT STARTS WITH A PRETTY HEAVY DOSE OF SAFETY KLEEN'S CLEANER DEGREASER, FOLLOWED BY SOME ELBOW GREASE. I STARTED OUT WITH A SCRAPER TO REMOVE ALL THE HEAVY STUFF FOLLOWED BY PREPPING EVERYTHING FOR PAINT. THEN I MASK ANYTHING I DIDN'T WANT TO

GET ANY OVERSPRAY ON. THEN I HIT IT WITH A FRESH COAT OF VHT EPOXY BLACK.

AND SINCE THE SUSPENSION TURNED OUT SO WELL, IT MADE THE FENDER WELL LOOK THAT MUCH WORSE. SO I WENT IN, CLEANED EVERYTHING UP, HIT IT WITH A RED SCUFF PAD. THEN I SHOT IT WITH A LAYER OF DUPLICOLOR'S RUBBERIZED UNDERCOATING.

AND SINCE OUR SPINDLE COMES BARE, IT'S PRONE TO RUST.

SO I WENT AHEAD AND HIT WITH EPOXY BLACK WHILE I WAS AT IT.

NOW YOU CAN SEE HOW JUST A LITTLE BIT OF PAINT REALLY HELPED OUT THE UNDERSIDE OF THESE OLD TRUCK. AND WHEN INSTALLING NEW SUSPENSION PARTS, DON'T BE CHEAP AND USE YOUR OLD COTTER PINS. GO OUT AND GET A FEW NEW ONES.

TRUST ME, THEY'RE PRETTY IMPORTANT.

NOW EVEN THOUGH THE HUB'S ALREADY LOADED WITH WHEEL BEARING GREASE, I LIKE TO THROW A GOOD COATING ON THE SPINDLE WHILE I'M AT IT. YOU CAN NEVER GET TOO MUCH IN THERE.

NOW WITH THE HUB INSTALLED THE NEXT STEP IS TO SET THE BEARING PRELOAD. AND THE WAY I LIKE TO DO THAT IS TO SNUG IT DOWN PRETTY TIGHT TO BE SURE THE BEARINGS SEAT WELL ONTO THE SPINDLE. AND THEN BACK IT OFF JUST ENOUGH TO WHERE THERE'S NO FREE PLAY IN THE HUB AND STILL HAVE SOME FREE WHEEL. AND HERE'S A GOOD IDEA. ONCE YOU'VE GOT THE TRUCK BACK ON THE GROUND, RUN IT UP AND DOWN THE STREET A LITTLE BIT. BRING IT BACK IN THE SHOP AND REINSPECT YOUR HUBS AND MAKE SURE THERE'S NO FREE PLAY.

THE WILWOOD KIT STARTS WITH THE CALIPER BRACKET, AND WE'LL JUST SNUG IT DOWN FOR NOW BECAUSE WE MAY HAVE TO SHIM IT LATER.

AND AFTER THE ROTOR WE'LL INSTALL THESE SHIMS THAT

ARE SUPPLIED IN THE KIT FOR THIS BIG SIX PISTON CALIPER.

AND WE GOT LUCKY. OUR CALIPER IS CENTERED EXACTLY OVER THE ROTOR, WHICH ALLOWED US TO GO AHEAD AND INSTALL OUR BRAKE PADS, FOLLOWED BY THE RETAINER BAR. THAT'S PERFECT! BRAKE PAD RETAINER.

AND SINCE EVERYTHING LINED UP PERFECTLY I WENT BACK AND PULLED ONE CALIPER MOUNTING BRACKET BOLT OUT AT A TIME AND APPLIED A LITTLE LOCTITE, AND THEN TORQUED TO SPEC.

LOOKS GOOD. THEN WE INSTALLED OUR DUST CAP. I JUST FOUND A SOCKET THAT MATCHED THE OUTER DIAMETER AND JUST TAPPED IT INTO PLACE. NOW THESE DEFINITELY AREN'T THE OE SHOCKS, BUT I CAN SEE THAT THEY'VE STILL BEEN ON HERE FOR A LONG TIME, WHICH IS WHY I HAD TO FIGHT WITH THEM FOR ABOUT 20 MINUTES BEFORE I COULD GET THEM OFF. BUT WE'RE GONNA SWAP THEM OUT WITH A SET OF FACTORY

REPLACEMENT SHOCKS THAT WE PICKED UP AT AUTOZONE. AND THESE I DIDN'T HAVE TO FIGHT WITH AT ALL. THEY INSTALLED IN JUST A COUPLE OF MINUTES.

IT LOOKS REALLY GOOD. WILWOOD MAKES SOME GOOD STUFF.

(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS WELCOME BACK TO TRUCK TECH AND THE LOWERING OF PROJECT NIGHTRAIN. NOW THAT WE'VE GOT THE FRONT ALL SQUARED AWAY

IT'S TIME TO MOVE ON TO THE REAR.

NOW WITH THE AXLE OUT OF THE WAY WE'LL START OFF BY REMOVING THE OE SPRING HANGER.

AND WE'RE GONNA USE THE SAME METHOD WE'VE ALWAYS SHOWN YOU. WE'RE GONNA CROSS CUT THE RIVET HEADS, KNOCK THEM OFF WITH THE AIR HAMMER, AND THEN DRIVE THE REST OF THE RIVETS OUT.

NOW ONLY IS THIS THE LOUDEST METHOD IT'S ALSO THE MOST EFFECTIVE. THE NEW LOWERING HANGER BOLTS RIGHT BACK INTO THE

FACTORY RIVET HOLES. INSTEAD OF REMOVING THE ENTIRE LEAF SPRING I'M GONNA BOLT IT BACK INTO THE NEW HANGER JUST TO RETAIN IT WHILE I INSTALL THE LOWERING SHACKLE.

AND SINCE THESE OE BOLTS HAVE BEEN IN THIS TRUCK FOR NEARLY 30 YEARS, SOMETIMES THEY CAN BE PRETTY STUBBORN. AND THAT'S WHEN THAT LOUD AIR HAMMER COMES BACK INTO PLAY.

AND TO MAKE ROOM FOR OUR NEW LOWERING SHACKLES WE HAVE TO NOTCH PART OF THE BED FRAME. AND TO DO THAT I LIKE TO USE THE THREE INCH CUTOFF WHEELS THAT WE GET FROM INDUSTRIAL DEPOT.

NOW I'LL CLEAN UP THE EDGES WITH A THREE INCH ROLL LOCK DISC, BLOW IT OUT, AND THEN HIT IT WITH A LITTLE MORE VHT EPOXY BLACK JUST TO PREVENT ANY NEW RUST.

NOW BEFORE I CAN INSTALL THE NEW SHACKLE I'LL SPRAY A LITTLE WD 40 ON THE BUSHINGS JUST TO HELP WITH PRESSING THEM IN. AND OUR DAKE ARBOR PRESS MAKES EASY WORK OF INSTALLING THE SLEEVE.

NOW I USED THE TOP HOLE ON THE NEW SHACKLE TO GET THE MAXIMUM DROP.

AND FOR NIGHTRAIN WE OPTED TO GO WITH THIS DANA 60 FROM CURRIE, WHICH IS DEFINITELY A HUGE IMPROVEMENT OVER THIS OLD GM 10 BOLT. IT COMES WITH THESE BEEFY THREE AND A HALF INCH TUBES, BIG BEARINGS, AND CURRIE'S 35 SPLINE AXLES BUT A BIG BONUS IS WHAT'S INSIDE. THIS IS YUKON'S 3.73 RING AND PINION. AND ZIP LOCKER, IT'S THEIR NEW AIR LOCKER. AND WHAT'S COOL ABOUT THIS IS IT'S AN OPEN DIFFERENTIAL FOR GOOD STREET MANORS. BUT AT THE FLIP OF A SWITCH WE CAN BE 100 PERCENT LOCKED FOR THE TRACK OR JUST WHEN WE NEED MAXIMUM TRACTION. PLUS THERE'S NO LIMITED SLIP ADDITIVE TO WORRY ABOUT OR FRICTION MODIFIER. COME ON DOWN WITH IT. A LITTLE MORE, OKAY STOP RIGHT THERE. YEAH, ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT THINGS WE NEED TO DO IS GET OUR AXLE CENTERED BEFORE INSTALLING OUR UBOLTS. NOW SINCE OUR NEW AXLE TUBE IS LARGER IN DIAMETER WE HAD TO PICK UP NEW UBOLTS, AND WE GOT

OURS FROM AUTOZONE. NOW BEFORE I WELD ON THE LEAF PERCHES WE NEED TO SET UP THE PINION ANGLE. NOW YOU COULD SET THIS UP ON THE FLOOR, BUT I FEEL THE MORE PRACTICAL WAY TO DO IT, ESPECIALLY WITH OUR NEW LOWER SUSPENSION, IS TO SET IT UP IN THE TRUCK UNDER THE VEHICLE'S FULL WEIGHT. LOOKS LIKE WE'RE SITTING AT ABOUT 89 DEGREES AND

I'M SHOOTING FOR ABOUT 85. SO WE'LL ROLL THE AXLE UP JUST A LITTLE BIT. NOW WITH THE WEIGHT OF THE VEHICLE SITTING ON THE AXLE, IT MAY TAKE A LITTLE PERSUASION TO GET IT CORRECT BUT IN MY OPINION THE GREAT THING ABOUT USING THIS METHOD IS THERE'S NO GUESSING. PERFECT!

NOW OUR AXLE CAME SHIP COATED IN OIL TO PREVENT IT FROM RUSTING. SO I'M GONNA CLEAN THAT OFF WITH A LITTLE LACQUER THINNER BEFORE I'M READY TO WELD THE PERCH ON. NOW WITH IT TACKED IN PLACE I DROP THE AXLE DOWN JUST TO GIVE ME ENOUGH ROOM TO PERMANENTLY WELD IT IN. NOW WE HAD TO REMOVE OUR AXLE SHAFT TO INSTALL OUR WILWOOD EMERGENCY BRAKE.

BUT THE GREAT THING ABOUT THIS AXLE, NO CCLIPS.

NOW JUST LIKE THE FRONT WE'LL START OFF WITH THE CALIPER BRACKET. WE'LL GET IT BOLTED INTO PLACE. THEN WE'LL GO BACK AND USE A LITTLE LOCTITE AND TORQUE TO SPEC.

AND TWICE IN A ROW WE GOT LUCKY. OUR CALIPER SLID RIGHT INTO PLACE AND WE DIDN'T HAVE TO SHIM ANYTHING. NOW THE NEXT TIME YOU SEE NIGHTRAIN WE'LL GET

OUR HARD LINES AND WILWOODS EXTENDED BRAKE LINES INSTALLED.

COOL, THAT LOOKS REALLY GOOD.

(JEREMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO TRUCK TECH. NOW THAT WE'VE GOT OUR SUSPENSION ALL BUTTONED UP THERE'S SOMETHING UNDER THE TRUCK I WANTED YOU TO CHECK OUT. NOW YOU REMEMBER THAT RYAN INSTALLED THIS DURAMAX ENGINE AND THIS BIG ALLISON TRANSMISSION,

HE HAD TO CUT THE FLOOR OF THE TRUCK OUT JUST TO GET IT IN. SINCE THEN I'VE GONE BACK IN, RAISED THE TUNNEL UP A LITTLE BIT, AND RESHEET METALED EVERYTHING. HERE'S HOW I DID IT.

NOW I GRABBED THE TUNNEL THAT RYAN HAD PREVIOUSLY CUT OUT, AND I STARTED BY REMOVING THE EXCESS MATERIAL OFF THE BACK OF THE PANEL.

THEN I STRIPPED THE PAINT OFF TO HAVE GOOD METAL TO WELD TO. NOW I WAS HAPPY WITH THE WAY THE FRONT OF THE TUNNEL LINED UP TO THE FIREWALL, AND BACK IN THE REAR I USED A ROLL OF INCH AND A HALF TAPE TO GET THE CLEARANCE I NEEDED OVER THE BIG ALLISON TRANSMISSION. NOW USING SOME THIN CARDBOARD I MADE SOME TEMPLATES TO SEE HOW MUCH METAL WOULD BE NEEDED TO FILL THE GAPS.

FOR BOTH THE DRIVER AND PASSENGER SIDE I TAPED A PIECE OF CARDBOARD IN UNDERNEATH. THEN I CAME BACK AND TRACED IT OUT ON THE TOP TO GET AN ACCURATE TEMPLATE.

ALRIGHT, THERE'S OUR DRIVER TEMPLATE.

NOW BEFORE REMOVING YOUR TEMPLATES BE SURE TO MARK WHAT'S TOP, BOTTOM, FRONT, AND BACK.

OKAY, WE CAN CUT SOME METAL.

NOW I'M GONNA USE OUR WOODWARD FAB SHEAR, BUT YOU CAN ALSO ACCOMPLISH THIS JOB WITH A CUTOFF WHEEL.

NOW USING A FEW MAGNETS TO HOLD OUR PIECE IN PLACE WE CAN START TACKING IT IN. AND IF NEED BE WE CAN USE A BODY HAMMER TO FINESSE

IT AND GET THE METAL WHERE WE WANT IT.

NOW REMEMBER WHEN YOU'RE TACK WELDING TO BE SURE TO JUMP AROUND. IT DOESN'T TAKE MUCH TO WARP THIS THIN SHEET METAL. [ welder crackling ]

NOW WITH EVERYTHING IN PLACE IT'S ONLY ABOUT ANOTHER 1,000 TACK WELDS TO GET IT ALL WELDED UP. [ grinder spinning ] NOW SINCE THEN I'VE GOTTEN THE

TRANSMISSION TUNNEL METAL FINISHED AND IN PRIMER. AND SINCE IT'S NOT REMOVABLE WE MAY BE ABLE TO SNEAK IN UNDERNEATH TO GET TO THOSE FEW BELL HOUSING BOLTS. BUT IF NOT IT'S AS SIMPLY AS DRILLING A FEW HOLES AND A FEW BODY PLUGS.

WELL THIS THING'S ABOUT READY FOR A RUBBER

MAT OR SOME CARPET.

(JEREMY)>> NOW FOR WHEELS FOR PROJECT NIGHTRAIN WE WENT TO REV WHEELS DOT COM AND PICKED UP THESE CLASSIC REV 100'S. NOW THEY COME IN A FEW DIFFERENT FINISHES BUT WE OPTED FOR CHROME JUST TO GO WITH THAT NICE CLASSIC LOOK. WE WENT WITH A 20 BY EIGHT UP FRONT AND A 20 BY NINE AND A HALF IN THE REAR. AND FOR TIRES WE WENT WITH TOYO PROXY ST'S. NOW ONLY ARE THEY A GREAT LOOKING TREAD PATTERN, THEY'RE GONNA GIVE US SOME GOOD TRACTION, AND WE'RE GONNA NEED IT FOR THE AMOUNT OF TORQUE

WE'RE PUTTING DOWN.

IT'LL LOOK REALLY COOL WITH OUR NEW LOWERED STANCE.

AND FOR THE REAR WE WANTED TO STUFF AS MUCH RUBBER AS WE POSSIBLY COULD UNDER THIS TRUCK. SO WE WENT WITH A 295/40.

AND SINCE WE'RE GONNA HAVE THIS TRUCK OUT IN

ALL TYPES OF WEATHER CONDITIONS WE NEEDED AN ALL SEASON TIRE.

SO THIS TIRE WILL DEFINITELY DO WHAT WE NEED IT TO, ALONG WITH BEING KNOWN FOR A REALLY QUIET RIDE.

CHECK THIS OUT, PROJECT NIGHTRAIN IS STARTING TO LOOK PRETTY AWESOME WITH SOME OF THESE PARTS WE'VE THROWN AT IT, AND WE'RE REALLY DIGGING THE STANCE. BUT WHAT I THINK'S COOL ABOUT THIS TRUCK IS NOTHING GIVES IT AWAY THAT IT'S A DIESEL. IT LOOKS LIKE A FAIRLY COMMON 1500 PICK UP. SO IT'S DEFINITELY GONNA SURPRISE SOME PEOPLE. AND SINCE THIS IS PROJECT NIGHTRAIN, I WENT AHEAD AND BLACKED OUT SOME OF THIS CHROME JUST TO GO

MORE ALONG WITH THE NAME. AND THE NEXT TIME YOU GUYS SEE THIS TRUCK WE'RE GONNA SEE IF WE CAN GET HER TO MAKE SOME NOISE. THIS IS ZONE OFF ROAD PRODUCTS C-2350 LIFT KIT FOR '07 THROUGH '13 GM HALF TON TRUCKS, AND IT GIVES IT THREE AND A HALF INCHES OF LIFT. THE KIT COMES WITH THESE UPPER CONTROL ARMS WITH PREINSTALLED HEAVY DUTY BUSHINGS, THESE DIFFERENTIAL DROP BRACKETS, STRUT SPACERS SO YOU DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT BUYING NEW ONES, ALL THE HARDWARE TO INSTALL, AND THIS HEAVY DUTY SKID PLATE SO YOU DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT TEARING THE BOTTOM OF YOUR TRUCK. SO IF YOU'RE LOOKING TO LIFT YOUR '07 THROUGH '13 GM HALF TON, CHECK OUT ZONE OFF ROAD PRODUCTS. IF YOU'RE IN THE MARKET FOR A GAUGE BEZEL FOR YOUR '67 THROUGH '72 C-10, CLASSIC PARTS OF AMERICA HAS WHAT YOU NEED.

THIS PARTICULAR BEZEL IS FOR A '69 THROUGH '72, AND IT COMES IN A FEW DIFFERENT FINISHES. BLACK AND CHROME LIKE WE HAVE HERE, CHROME, WOOD GRAIN, OR BILLET IF YOU'RE GOING FOR THAT CUSTOM LOOK. AND FOR YOU GUYS WITH A '47 THROUGH '53 CHEVY TRUCK YOU KNOW HOW BAD THESE SPEAKER GRILLS CAN GET. THEY GET WEATHERED AND TAKE A BEATING OVER THE YEARS, AND THE COOL THING ABOUT THIS IS IT COMES ALREADY PAINTED. SO IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR A SPEAKER GRILL OR A BEZEL FOR YOUR CHEVY TRUCK, CHECK OUT CLASSIC PARTS OF AMERICA. NOW EARLIER YOU SAW ME SPRAYING THE BOTTOM OF OUR TRANSMISSION TUNNEL, AND WHAT I WAS USING WAS THE LIZARD SKIN TOP COAT.

AND IT'S GOOD FOR WHEEL WELLS, UNDERBODIES, AND FLOOR PANS, AND IT CAN ALSO BE APPLIED OVER OTHER LIZARD SKIN PRODUCTS.

BUT WHAT'S GREAT ABOUT THIS, IF YOU JUST HAVE A SMALL AREA YOU WANT TO DO, YOU DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT MIXING UP A LARGE QUANTITY AND HAVING TO CLEAN YOUR GUNS OUT LATER BECAUSE THIS STUFF COMES ON THE CONVENIENCE OF A RATTLE CAN. GUYS THANKS FOR WATCHING TRUCK TECH, SEE YOU NEXT TIME.