Stealth Crate 427: Nitrous Madness

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY IT'S ROUND TWO FOR THE TRANSFORMATION OF A BIG BLOCK SWAP MEET CREATE MOTOR INTO A STEALTH 427 ON NITROUS.

(MIKE)>> WE'RE BACK IN THE SHOP THIS WEEK AND MOVING ON WITH OUR STEALTH 427 BIG BLOCK CHEVY BUILD. NOW IF YOU'RE JUST STEPPING ON THE WAGON, TAKE A LOOK AT HOW FAR WE GOT LAST TIME. WE BEGAN WITH A SWAP MEET BOUGHT 427 INCH BIG BLOCK THAT STARTED OFF AS A CHEVY PERFORMANCE CRATE ENGINE THAT MADE 469 HORSEPOWER ON OUR DYNO. THEN WE DISSECTED IT LOOKING FOR WEAR OR ANY DAMAGE, AND FOUND THAT THIS ENGINE HAD VERY LITTLE RUN TIME. SO WITH THE RUNNERS CLEANED UP, THE CHAMBERS AND PISTONS POLISHED, WE BEGAN THE BUILD OF A STEALTH 427. AS PLANNED WE'LL CONTINUE FROM THIS POINT WITH REASSEMBLY. NOW PUTTING THE SHORT BLOCK BACK TOGETHER TAKES TIME, PATIENCE, AND MOST IMPORTANTLY YOUR FULL ATTENTION TO DETAIL. NOW MAKING SURE ALL THE BEARING CLEARANCES ARE

CORRECT, THE CRANKSHAFT'S THRUST IS ADEQUATE, AND THE RING GAPS ARE IN THE RIGHT POSITION IS JUST A SMALL LIST OF THINGS WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU SO YOUR ENGINE LASTS AND MAKES GOOD POWER.

(PAT)>> BEFORE WE DROP IN OUR FORGED CRANK, WE NEED TO MAKE SURE WE SUFFICIENT BEARING CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE JOURNAL AND THE BEARING SURFACE, WHICH IN THIS CASE IS 27 TO 32 TEN THOUSANDTHS OF AN INCH. NOW WE GET THAT SPEC BY USING AN ENGINE BUILDER'S RULE OF THUMB. YOU NEED A THOUSANDTHS CLEARANCE PER INCH

OF JOURNAL DIAMETER. TO DO THIS WE NEED TO MEASURE THE CRANK'S JOURNAL WITH A MICROMETER. THIS IS THE CORRECT AND MOST ACCURATE WAY TO GET THE READING, WHICH IS TWO POINT SEVENFOURSEVENSEVEN. USING THE MICROMETER, WE CAN SET UP THE BORE GAUGE AND DIAL IT TO ZERO. IT ALLOWS US TO SHOW THE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE JOURNAL AND THE BEARING. WITH THE NEW CLEVITE COATED BEARING INSTALLED IN THE CAP AND IN THE BLOCK, THE MAIN CAP IS SEATED WITH A DEAD BLOW AND TORQUED TO SPEC. NOW WE CAN TAKE THE MEASUREMENT. SLOWLY ROCKING THE GAUGE TO FIND THE WIDEST POINT WILL GIVE US OUR READING, 28 TEN THOUSANDTHS. I'LL DO THIS FOR THE REST OF THE MAINS BEING SURE TO RECORD THEM. WE MEASURE AND SET BEARING CLEARANCES INDIVIDUALLY TO TAKE INTO ACCOUNT SMALL VARIATIONS IN JOURNAL DIAMETER. NOW TOO MUCH OIL CLEARANCE WILL GIVE YOU LOW OIL PRESSURE BUT TOO LITTLE WILL BURN THE BEARINGS UP DUE TO LACK OF LUBRICATION. AS LONG AS WE'RE IN THE 27 TO 32 TEN THOUSANDTHS

RANGE, WE'RE GOOD TO MOVE ON.

(MIKE)>> WITH THESE BEARING TOLERANCES IN ORDER, HERE'S A QUICK FYI. A SPEC OF DIRT, BURR OF METAL, OR SIMILAR SIZE FOREIGN MATTER IS LARGE ENOUGH TO DECREASE THE TOLERANCE TO THE POINT THAT THE CRANK WON'T TURN OVER IN THE BLOCK WHEN YOU'RE ASSEMBLING IT. SO IT'S EXTREMELY IMPORTANT TO MAKE SURE THAT THE SADDLES ARE CLEAN AND FREE OF ANY DEBRIS OR OIL BECAUSE THAT WILL EFFECT BEARING CLEARANCES. CLEVITE RACE SERIES TRIARMOR BEARINGS WITH AN ADDITIONAL TEFLON BASE COATING WILL GIVE US EXTRA PROTECTION DURING START UPS, WHICH IS WHERE 75 TO 80 PERCENT OF ALL ENGINE WEAR OCCURS.

(PAT)>> WE'LL USE A HIGH VISCOSITY ASSEMBLY LUBE LIKE ROYAL PURPLE'S MAXX TOUGH THAT PREVENTS METAL TO METAL CONTACT AS WE TURN OVER BY HAND DURING ASSEMBLY AND ON INITIAL FIRE UP. THANKS TO A ONE PIECE REAR MAIN SEAL DESIGN THERE'S NO UPPER HALF TO INSTALL IN THE BLOCK, ALLOWING US TO LAY THE CRANK RIGHT IN PLACE. WE'LL ADD EXTREME PRESSURE LUBE TO THE BOLTS. AND WITH NEW COATED BEARINGS IN THE MAIN CAPS, WE CAN DROP THEM IN. BEFORE TIGHTENING DOWN THE MAIN BOLTS, SEAT THE CAP ON THE BLOCK WITH A DEAD BLOW HAMMER, NOT THE CLOSEST METALLIC BEATING DEVICE.

THIS ELIMINATES THE CHANCE OF CREATING A BURR BETWEEN THE TWO MATING SURFACES. HERE'S THE CHEVY PERFORMANCE TORQUE SEQUENCE FOR THE MAINS. THE REASON FOR IT, BECAUSE IT'S THE WAY THE FACTORY TORQUED THE MAIN CAPS BEFORE THE MAIN HOUSING WAS FINAL HONED. THIS TORQUE PATTERN ENSURES PERFECT ALIGNMENT SO THE CRANK CAN SPIN FREELY. THE FIRST PASS IS TO 50 FOOT POUNDS. THE FINAL IS TO 100, AND THE CRANK IS BACK WHERE IT BELONGS.

(MIKE)>> COMING UP, FROM RING TECH TO OIL PUMP MODS, THE SHORT BLOCK GETS ASSEMBLED.

(PAT)>> IN THE FIRST PART OF THIS BUILD WE SHOWED YOU SOME REALLY COOL RING TECH INVOLVING LOWERING THE OIL RING'S TENSION. TAKE A LOOK. WE STARTED OFF WITH 27 POUNDS OF OIL RING TENSION USING THE STOCK OIL RINGS. THEN WE SWAPPED THEM OUT FOR A SET OF LOW TENSION RINGS FROM TOTAL SEAL TO REDUCE THE DRAG BY 10 POUNDS. WE ALSO SPLURGED ON THE REST OF THE RING PACK. BECAUSE THIS ENGINE WILL EVENTUALLY BE GETTING A

POWER ADDED, WE NEED A RING BETTERED SUITED FOR ADDITIONAL CYLINDER PRESSURE. SO WE OPTED FOR TOTAL SEAL'S GAPLESS TOP AND NAPIER SECOND. THE TOP RING USES AN ADDITIONAL RAIL MAKING IT A TWO PIECE DESIGN. HERE'S A LOOK AT HOW IT WORKS.

(MIKE)>> AND WORKS IT DOES VERY EFFECTIVELY. NOW THE RING HAS A GROOVE CUT INTO IT THAT ACCEPTS THAT SMALL RAIL.

NOW THAT'S WHAT KEEPS THE COMPRESSION GAS FROM BYPASSING THE GAP, CAUSING EXCESSIVE BLOW BY. NOW THAT SAME GAS GETS FORCED INTO THE RING GROOVE, PRESSURE LOADING THE RING FOR BETTER SEALING CHARACTERISTICS. A WHOLE LOT BETTER THAN A CONVENTIONAL TOP RING. OUR GOODSON RING FILER WILL MAKE QUICK WORK OF GETTING OUR TOP AND SECOND RING GAPPED TO 32 THOUSANDTHS FOR THIS SETUP. NOW THE RULE OF THUMB IS SEVEN AND A HALF THOUSANDTHS PER INCH OF BORE ON THIS RING

FOR THE NITROUS SETUP.

SO 32 THOUSANDTHS IS OUR TARGET. THIS TYPE OF RING WILL ALSO HELP A VACUUM PUMP BE MORE EFFICIENT SINCE THE ENGINE IS SEALED UP BETTER.

(PAT)>> JUST LIKE THE MAINS, THE RODS ARE FITTED WITH CLEVITE RACE SERIES COATED BEARINGS.

WE ALREADY CHECKED THE CLEARANCE THE SAME WAY THE MAINS WE'RE DONE WITH A MIC AND A DIAL BORE GAUGE. JUST AS IMPORTANT AS CLEARANCE IS PROPER PRELUBRICATION. SINCE THE PISTONS AND RODS WERE CLEANED FOR POLISHING, WE'LL MAKE SURE TO LUBE THE WRIST PINS LIBERALLY TO ELIMINATE ANY RISK OF DAMAGE ON START UP. PLUS WE'LL USE ENGINE OIL ON THE SKIRTS AND ON THE RINGS.

(MIKE)>> BEFORE THE ROD AND PISTONS GO IN, THE CRANK'S THRUST NEEDS TO BE CHECKED. WALKING IT FRONT TO BACK GIVES US A READING OF FIVE AND A HALF THOUSANDS. BOOTS GO ON THE ROD BOLTS TO PROTECT THE BORE AND ROD JOURNAL FROM NICKS. NOW WE'LL USE OUR TAPERED RING COMPRESSOR TO GUIDE THE PISTON AND ROD ASSEMBLY BACK INTO THEIR HOMESTEAD. ALMOST THERE, GOOD. NOW REMOVE THE BOOTS AND SLIDE THE LUBED ROD CAP ONTO THE BOLTS.

START THE NUTS, AND PLACE A SMALL AMOUNT OF EXTREME PRESSURE LUBE ON THE THREADS.

THE FINAL TASK HERE IS TORQUEING THEM TO 65 FOOT POUNDS. THE OTHER MAJOR UPGRADE WE'RE TAKING CARE OF IS THE CAM SHAFT. NOW THIS IS A HYDRAULIC ROLLER FROM LUNATI'S VOODOO LINE. NOW IT'S GEARED TOWARD SERIOUS STREET ENGINES THAT HAVE AT LEAST A 10.5 TO ONE COMPRESSION RATIO, AND USE A 32 HUNDRED OR LARGER STALL CONVERTER. PLUS IT'S A GREAT CANDIDATE FOR A NITROUS SETUP, WHICH MAKES IT THE PERFECT MATCH FOR OUR STEALTH 427.

(PAT)>> LIFT AT THE VALVE WITH A ONESEVEN ROCKER ARM IS 625 THOUSANDTHS ON BOTH INTAKE AND EXHAUST. DURATION AT 50 IS 241, 249, AND HAS A 110 DEGREE LOBE SEPARATION ANGLE. THE RPM RANGE IS 2,600 TO 6,200 RPM.

THE GEN SIX BLOCK HAS A CAM THRUST PLATE THAT LOCATES THE CAM IN THE BLOCK.

SO NO BUTTON IS NEEDED TO LIMIT END PLAY. LUNATI ALSO SUPPLIED THIS BILLET TIMING SET THAT USES A TORRINGTON BEARING ON THE BACK OF THE CAM

GEAR TO GREATLY REDUCE FRICTION. IT USES A DOUBLE ROW CHAIN AND HAS AN NINE POSITION KEYWAY CRANK GEAR. FOR THE PURPOSE OF THIS ENGINE WE'LL INSTALL THEM STRAIGHT UP, WHICH MEANS THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST

LOBE CENTER LINE IS 110, NOT ADVANCED OR RETARDED. DURING THE TEAR DOWN OF THIS ENGINE WE WANTED TO SEE HOW MUCH FORCE IT TOOK TO TURN THE ENGINE OVER WITH STANDARD RINGS IN PLACE. WE TAKE AN AVERAGE READING AS THE ASSEMBLY IS ROTATING. IT SHOWED ABOUT 30 FOOT POUNDS. WITH THE SHORT BLOCK BACK TO THE SAME STATE OF ASSEMBLY, WE'LL RECHECK IT TO SEE HOW MUCH FRICTION WE REDUCED WITH OUR NEW RINGS. OUR AVERAGE READING IS NOW 18 FOOT POUNDS FOR A 12 POUND REDUCTION. NOW THAT FREES UP HORSEPOWER.

(MIKE)>> ALSO DURING THE TEAR DOWN WE MENTIONED REUSING THE ORIGINAL OIL PUMP AND MASSAGING IT A BIT. BUT SINCE WE HAVE TO USE A NEW PAN AND PICK UP TO FIT THE S-10 CHASSIS, I DON'T FEEL LIKE CUTTING THE STOCK WELDS ON THE ORIGINAL PUMP. SO WE STEPPED UP TO A MILODON UNIT. NOW THIS IS A HIGH VOLUME PIECE AND JUST LIKE THE

PLANS WITH THE ORIGINAL, WE'RE GONNA DO A LITTLE MASSAGING ON IT TOO. WITH THE PUMP DISASSEMBLED, I'M GONNA REMOVE ANY OF THE ROUGH CASTING OR SHARP EDGES WITH A CARTRIDGE ROLL, ESPECIALLY INSIDE THE MAIN OIL PASSAGE.

IT'S REALLY ROUGH! THEN ANY AREAS WHERE THE OIL TRAVELS WILL BE SLICKED UP TO ALLOW IT TO MOVE THROUGH THE PUMP SMOOTHER AND MORE EFFECTIVELY. ONCE ASSEMBLED, I'LL WELD THE PICK UP TO THE PUMP TO

GUARANTEE IT DOES NOT COME OFF. BECAUSE YOU DON'T WANT TO BE THAT GUY.

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP OUR MASSAGED HEADS MAKE A TRIP TO THE FLOW BENCH.

(MIKE)>> WE'RE BACK AND I JUST TORQUED THE ORIGINAL OIL PUMP STUD TO 55 FOOT POUNDS WITH EXTREME PRESSURE LUBE. NOW TO MATCH THE PICK UP, PAT'S GONNA TELL YOU ABOUT THE OIL PAN.

(PAT)>> IT'S A STEEL MILODON PIECE THAT HAS AN EIGHT QUARTER CAPACITY AND THEIR SIGNATURE GOLD IRIDITE FINISH. NOW TO KEEP ALL THAT OIL OFF THE CRANK IT HAS A BOLT IN WINDAGE TRAY AND A LARGE KICK OUT ON THE PASSENGER SIDE. AND THAT EQUATES TO MORE POTENTIAL POWER GAINS.

(MIKE)>> THE SUPPLIED MILODON GASKET HAS COMPRESSION STOPS BUILT IN TO PREVENT OVER TIGHTENING. LOCKING THE PAN IN PLACE ARE ARP 12 POINT

STAINLESS FASTENERS. NOW ONE THING WE WON'T BE USING IS A

MECHANICAL FUEL PUMP. SO WE'RE COVERING THE OPENING WITH A BLOCK OFF PLATE. TO WRAP UP THE SHORT BLOCK THE ORIGINAL

BALANCER WILL GO BACK ON. NOW NEVER DRIVE IT ON WITH A HAMMER. USE AN INSTALLER TOOL.

IF YOU DON'T HAVE ONE, ANY AUTO PARTS STORE WILL RENT IT TO YOU.

(PAT)>> I CAN CANCEL MY GYM MEMBERSHIP. AFTER A RIDE BACK FROM SAMS, OUR HEADS ARE FINALLY IN OUR HANDS. NOW THEY DID WHAT THEY DO BEST, PRECISION MACHINING. THEY REMOVED 30 THOUSANDTHS OF MATERIAL FROM THE DECK SURFACE, WHICH REDUCED OUR COMBUSTION CHAMBER TO 109cc. THAT COMBINED WITH OUR NEW COMETIC GASKET WILL GIVE US A FINAL COMPRESSION RATIO OF 10.79 TO ONE TO BE EXACT. PLUS THEY DID A FIVE ANGLE VALVE JOB AND POLISHED THE CHAMBER. LET'S SEE WHERE WE ARE NOW. WHAT WE'RE LOOKING FOR ARE IMPROVED NUMBERS ACROSS EVERY LIFT POINT. THE IMPROVEMENTS WE'LL SEE COME MOSTLY FROM THE VALVE JOB SINCE THE PORTS WERE JUST SMOOTH, NOT ENLARGED. THE TEST WILL BE DONE THE SAME WAY, FROM 200 TO 700 THOUSANDTHS. AT 200 THE AIR FLOW STABILIZED AT 152 FOR A 14 CFM GAIN OVER STOCK.

AT 300 IT COMES IN AT 221, A GAIN OF 18 CFM. LOOKING AT THE COMPARISON FROM THE ORIGINAL FLOW NUMBERS, YOU CAN SEE THE IMPROVEMENT AT EACH LIFT POINT. ANY TIME YOU INCREASE FLOW LIKE THIS, YOU'LL SEE AN INCREASE IN POWER. MOVING UP TO 700 THOUSANDTHS, AIR

STABILIZES AT 321, AN 11 CFM GAIN.

(MIKE)>> NOW WE CAN GET THE HEADS IN THE WASHER TO MAKE SURE THE CHIPS AND ALUMINUM FROM ALL THE

POLISHING IS GONE. NOW THEY'LL STAY IN FOR ABOUT FIVE MINUTES.

SO IN THE MEAN TIME WE'LL GET THE REST OF THE SPRING ASSEMBLIES READY TO GO ON. FINISHING UP THE HEADS REQUIRES SPRINGS, RETAINERS, AND KEEPERS THAT LUNATI SPECS FOR THE CAM SHAFT. THE SPRING IS A THREE PIECE DESIGN. IT USES AN OUTER COIL, FOLLOWED BY THE DAMPENER RIGHT INSIDE OF IT, AND IN THE CENTER IS AN INNER COIL. NOW THAT'S GOING TO KEEP OUR VALVETRAIN UNDER CONTROL UP TO OUR 6,500 RPM LIMIT.

(PAT)>> WE'LL INSTALL THE SPRING SHIMS NEEDED TO SET OUR INSTALL HEIGHT AT ONENINE-40. NOW WE CAN DROP ON NEW VALVE STEM SEALS. THEN PUT THE VALVES IN MAKING SURE THERE IS PLENTY OF LUBE ON THE STEMS. USING OUR GOODSON PNEUMATIC COMPRESSOR, COMPRESS THE SPRINGS AND INSTALL THE KEEPERS MAKING SURE THEY SIT IN THE GROOVE.

(MIKE)>> WE'RE USING COMETIC MLS HEAD GASKETS THAT HAVE OUTER LAYERS COATED WITH VITON ON BOTH SIDES THAT RESIST HEAT UP TO 482 DEGREES FOR A LEAK FREE SEAL. THE COMPRESSED THICKNESS IS 40 THOUSANDTHS. WE'LL PREP THE HEAD BOLTS WITH THREAD SEALANT SINCE THEY DO NOT GO INTO BLIND HOLES. NOW ARP ULTRA TORQUE WILL GO UNDER THE HEAD OF THE BOLT FOR PROPER TORQUEING. NOW WE CAN REST THE HEADS ON THE GASKETS, MAKING

SURE THEY SEAT ON THE DOWELS, AND PLACE ALL THE FASTENERS IN THEIR CORRECT LOCATION. FINALLY THE HEADS CAN BE TORQUED TO ARP'S RECOMMENDATION OF 70 FOOT POUNDS.

NOW WE'LL REACH THAT BY TIGHTENING THEM IN THREE STEPS. THE FIRST IS 30. NOTICE HOW THE BOLTS ARE NUMBERED? WELL AGAIN WE'RE FOLLOWING THE FACTORY TORQUE SEQUENCE. NOW WE'LL STEP UP TO 50 FOOT POUNDS, AND THE FINAL TO GET THE CORRECT BOLT STRETCH FOR PROPER

CLAMPING FORCE IS 70 FOOT POUNDS.

(ANNOUNCER)>> FINALLY IT'S DYNO TIME! FROM ALL MOTOR TO NITROUS, WE'LL SEE HOW STEALTHY OUR 427 IS.

(MIKE)>> GOING BACK IN THE SAME HOLES. THAT'S RIGHT, WE'RE ALSO REUSING THE STOCK LIFTERS. IN FACT, THE ONLY NEW PARTS IN THIS USED 427

CRATE ENGINE SO FAR ARE THE LOW TENSION PISTON RINGS, A MORE AGGRESSIVE CAM, BILLET TIMING SET, BEARINGS, AND THE OIL PAN. NOW IT'S NOT A BUDGET BUILD, JUST KEEPING GOOD PARTS THAT WORK, EVEN THESE PUSH RODS. WITH EXTREME PRESSURE LUBE ON ALL THE METAL TO METAL CONTACT POINTS, WE CAN DROP ON THE NEW LUNATI ONE POINT SEVEN ROLLER ROCKERS. NOW WE'LL SET THEM UP AN EIGHTH TURN PAST ZERO LASH, AND COAT EVERYTHING WITH COMP CAMS VALVETRAIN SPRAY LUBE. AND JUST LIKE BEFORE, OUR STEALTHY 427 VALVE COVERS WILL COVER THEM UP. LIKE THE FIRST DYNO SESSION, WE'LL USE THE SAME HEADERS, CARB, AND DISTRIBUTOR. THE NEXT NEW PIECE IS A JONES RACING FRONT ACCESSORY DRIVE AND THEY EVEN PUT OUR NAME ON IT. THIS BELT DRIVEN WATER PUMP WILL GIVE US THE CORRECT COOLANT FLOW AT LOWER CRUISING RPM'S, AND ALSO KEEP US SUPER COOL AT THE TRACK. THEY BUILD A 140 AMP ALTERNATOR TO DELIVER PLENTY OF CHARGING POWER EVEN WHEN THE TRUCK IS IDLING, TO KEEP ALL OUR ELECTRICAL ACCESSORIES SATISFIED. THE ENTIRE SETUP IS DRIVEN OFF A SINGLE MANDREL, AND USES COGGED PULLEYS TO AVOID SLIPPAGE.

JONES' TWO STAGE BILLET ALUMINUM VACUUM PUMP IS A

PROVEN PIECE FOR THE STREET AND THE RACE TRACK, BOASTING GREAT VACUUM NUMBERS.

NOW IT PULLS EQUALLY FROM BOTH VALVE COVERS, ALLOWING THE PUMP TO FREE UP ENGINE POWER WHILE CREATING LESS WORK FOR ITSELF.

NOW THIS THING IS SO WELL BUILT IT CARRIES A FIVE YEAR WARRANTY. ALL THE BRACKETRY IS CNC MACHINED IN THEIR PENNSYLVANIA FACILITY, AND THE SYSTEM COMES WITH ALL THE HARDWARE. FROM THE DRIVER'S SIDE VALVE COVER, A DASH 12 LIGHTWEIGHT HOSE WILL RUN TO THE PUMP. THEN ANOTHER FROM THE PASSENGER'S SIDE COVER CONNECTS TO THE SECOND STAGE OF THE PUMP. WITH THE RESERVOIR MOUNTED, CONNECT A DASH EIGHT LINE FROM IT TO THE REGULATOR THAT IS PRESET TO PULL JUST OVER 12 INCHES OF VACUUM. AND ANOTHER FROM THE RESERVOIR TO THE PUMP.

(PAT)>> ROYAL PURPLE FIVE W-20 XPR GOES IN AND THE ENGINE GETS PRIMED. THE LAST THING WE'LL NEED IS FUEL. 93 OCTANE WILL LIGHT IT OFF. [ engine fires ] WITH A SMOOTH START WE'LL SET THE

TIMING TO A SAFE 32 DEGREES. WITH IT UP TO TEMP, WE'RE MAKING A PULL FROM 3,000 TO 6,000 RPM.

(MIKE)>> 497 HORSEPOWER, 494 FOOT POUNDS OF TORQUE, THAT CARBURETOR'S SMALL.

(PAT)>> I THINK IT'S TOO SMALL. IT'S ALL CORKED UP.

(MIKE)>> HEY, THAT'S EXACTLY IT. SO WE'RE SWAPPING TO A 1,000 CFM ULTRA HP FROM HOLLEY. HERE WE GO!

(PAT)>> COME ON BABY! [ engine revving ]

(PAT)>> NOW WE'RE TALKING BUSINESS.

(MIKE)>> 509 HORSEPOWER, 502 FOOT POUNDS OF TORQUE. BUT THERE'S MORE IN THERE, AND NITROUS WILL FIND IT. OUR S-10 IS GONNA BE USED ON THE STREET AND OUT ON THE STRIP. SO WE'RE GONNA HAVE TWO FUEL CELLS IN IT.

A LARGE ONE WITH 93 AND A SMALLER ONE FOR HIGH OCTANE RACE FUEL. BUT HAULING IT AND STORING IT IS DANGEROUS, AND IT WILL AGE. SO RACER DAN MULDOWNY SOLVED THAT PROBLEM WITH AN OCTANE BOOSTER CALLED RACE GAS.

(DAN)>> I'M A ROAD COURSE RACER, AND ABOUT 12 YEARS AGO I MELTED A PISTON AT A RACE TRACK.

I BOUGHT RACING FUEL THAT I THOUGHT WAS 110 OCTANE. IT TURNS OUT IT WAS OLD AND IT REALLY WASN'T. AND I SPENT THE NEXT 10 YEARS RESEARCHING HOW TO SOLVE THIS PROBLEM FOR MYSELF.

(MIKE)>> AND HERE IT IS. HE OFFERS A CONCENTRATE TO THE PUBLIC. NOW TWO OUNCES PER GALLON OF FUEL RACES THE OCTANE FOUR FULL POINTS. SO 93 BECOMES 97 OCTANE. BUT FOR OUR PURPOSE ONE 32 OUNCE CAN TO FOUR GALLONS OF 93 OCTANE PUTS US AT 108 OCTANE NEEDED FOR OUR NITROUS RUNS. NOW THE BEST PART IS YOU CAN MIX IT AT THE TRACK AND SAVE MONEY TO BOOT.

(DAN)>> BLENDING OURS WITH 87 OCTANE PUMP GAS WE'RE GONNA SAVE YOU PROBABLY ABOUT SIX DOLLARS A GALLON.

(MIKE)>> THAT'LL HELP FEED THE CREW. NOW OUR NITROUS SYSTEM IS A CHEATER KIT FROM NOS. IT'S ADJUSTABLE FROM 100 TO 250 HORSEPOWER. NOW IT USES A PLATE AND TWO SPRAY BARS TO SPRAY NITROUS AND FUEL INTO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD, MAKING IT A WET SYSTEM. A DRY SYSTEM ONLY SPRAYS NITROUS INTO THE MANIFOLD, RELYING ON THE FUEL SYSTEM TO ADD THE ADDITIONAL FUEL NEEDED. HERE GOES A 150 SHOT AT 31 DEGREES. [ engine revving ]

(PAT)>> I WOULD CALL THAT A SUCCESSFUL FIRST RUN.

(MIKE)>> 746 FOOT POUNDS OF TORQUE, 665 HORSEPOWER.

(PAT)>> I LOVE IT. ALRIGHT, LETS TUNE ON IT A LITTLE BIT MORE. KEEP THE SAME SHOT AND ADD SOME TIMING.

WE'VE DEFINITELY GOT ENOUGH OCTANE TO DO IT NOW. [ engine revving ]

(MIKE)>> 669, 784, AND LOVED THE TIMING. LOOK HOW MUCH POWER IT CARRIES THROUGH THE MID RANGE, AND IT DOESN'T DROP, IT DOES NOT LET OFF. WE MADE 200 HORSEPOWER OVER THE BASELINE IN CRATE FORM WITH OUR LITTLE 427. THAT WAS WITH A 150 SHOT OF NITROUS AND OUR RACE GAS, WHICH LET US KEEP THE TIMING IN IT AND THE AIR FUELS LOOK GREAT, TELLING US IT WORKED. THE NEXT TIME YOU SEE THIS THING IT'S GONNA BE BETWEEN THE FRAME RAILS OF OUR LITTLE S-10 WE'RE GONNA CALL LIME DIME.