LS Oiling Solution

(ANNOUNCER)>> SWAPPING A CORVETTE'S LS SEVEN INTO

ANOTHER RIDE CAN BE A VERY TIGHT FIT. THE SOLUTION, CONVERT THEIR BULKY DRET OILING SYSTEM TO THE SMALLER WET SUMP.

(MIKE)>> WELCOME TO ENGINE POWER WHERE THE SEARCH FOR MORE IS OUR NUMBER ONE AGENDA. THE 505 HORSEPOWER LS SEVEN IS THE MOST POWERFUL NATURAL ASPIRATED LS ENGINE AND WAS ONLY AVAILABLE IN ZO SIX CORVETTES. THAT MAKES IT THE MOST SOUGHT AFTER POWER PLANT FOR SWAPS INTO WILD RIDES LIKE AIR PLANES, HELICOPTERS, SAND RAILS, AND ANYTHING ON FOUR WHEELS. TODAY WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU HOW TO CONVERT THIS LS SEVEN FROM ITS FACTORY DRET SYSTEM TO A WET SUMP OILING SYSTEM TO MAKE SWAPS EASIER BY SAVING ROOM IN THE ENGINE BAY, CASH ON OIL CHANGES, AND GET IT READY TO TRANSPLANT INTO YOUR PROJECT. PLUS WE'RE GONNA ADD CLOSE TO 100 HORSEPOWER WITH SOME

OFF THE SHELF PARTS. THESE ENGINES CAN BE A LITTLE PRICEY BUT THERE'S NO DOUBT YOU'RE GOING TO HAVE A SERIOUS POWER HOUSE ON YOUR HANDS. NOW AS FAR AS FINDING ONE, DON'T WORRY, THEY'RE READILY AVAILABLE. THIS THING LOOKS MONEY BAGS, WHERE'D YOU PICK IT UP?

(JOHN)>> THIS IS AN INTERNET DEAL. ZO SIX CORVETTE, BURNT DOWN, 10,000 MILES, PRETTY MUCH COMPLETE.

IT NEEDS A FEW THINGS.

SO I DON'T NEED THE CAR ANYWAYS.

(MIKE)>> HECK OF A FIND.

(JOHN)>> YEAH!

(MIKE)>> THE LS SEVEN CORVETTE WAS THE ONLY

GM VEHICLE WITH THIS UNIQUE OILING SYSTEM. NOW THE ZO SIX CORVETTE WAS ABLE TO PULL MORE THAN THREE G'S. AND IF A STANDARD WET SUMP WAS USED, OIL WOULD BE FORCED AWAY FROM THE PICK UP AND STARVE THE ENGINE OF OIL. HERE'S THE FACTORY LS SEVEN OILING SYSTEM MINUS THE OIL COOLER. NOW IT'S REFERRED TO AS A DRET SYSTEM, DRET, AND IT COMBINES BOTH A DRY AND A WET TOGETHER. NOW THIS IS THE OIL TANK. YOU HAVE A FEED AND A SUPPLY LINE, AND THE OIL PAN. NOW THE PUMP IS BEST DESCRIBED AS TWO PUMPS IN ONE. YOU HAVE A SCAVENGE SIDE AND A SUPPLY SIDE. HERE'S A LOOK AT HOW THE OIL FLOWS THROUGH THE SYSTEM. FROM THE TANK IT'S GRAVITY FED TO THE SUPPLY SIDE OF THE PUMP. THAT PUMPS IT BACK TO THE OIL FILTER, THROUGH THE OIL COOLER, AND BACK INTO THE ENGINE. NOW THE OIL GOES THROUGH THE ENGINE AND DRAINS BACK DOWN INTO THE PAN. NOW THE SCAVENGE SIDE OF THE PUMP PULLS THE OIL THROUGH THE PICK UP, GOES THROUGH THE PUMP, AND RETURNS IT BACK TO THE OIL TANK.

(JOHN)>> NOW SINCE MOST OF THE VEHICLES THAT ARE SWAPPED WITH AN LS SEVEN WILL NEVER SEE THE ABUSE OR THE G'S OF A ZO SIX CORVETTE, WE'RE GONNA SWAP THIS ONE OUT TO A TRUE WET SUMP. NOW WHAT WE'RE GONNA USE IS A HOLLEY OIL PAN WITH THEIR NEW PRO TOUR BAFFLE SETUP WITH TRAP DOORS, AN LS THREE BALANCER FROM ATI, AN LS THREE MELLING HIGH VOLUME OIL PUMP, LS THREE WINDAGE TRAY, A COMP DOUBLE ROLL FOURX LS THREE TIMING SET, AS WELL AS A NEW TIMING CHAIN COVER. NOW THIS IS PRETTY COOL. THIS IS A JIG THAT'S GONNA HELP US PUT A DIP STICK INTO THE BLOCK WITHOUT GETTING IT OFF AND MESSING IT UP. WE'RE SHOW YOU HOW TO DO THAT LATER.

(MIKE)>> WE CHOSE THIS ONE BECAUSE THE COMPANY GOT IT FROM PULLS THEM APART, CHECKS EVERYTHING, AND CLEANS THEM SO THEY CAN GUARANTEE

IT TO THE CUSTOMER. WE'LL START THE TEAR DOWN BY REMOVING THE FRONT ACCESSORIES. THE BELT WILL BE THE FIRST THING TO GO. NEXT UP IS THE WATER PUMP ASSEMBLY. NOW LOOSEN THE POWER STEERING PUMP AND RESERVOIR TO ACCESS THE MAIN BRACKET BOLTS. AND REMOVE IT WITH THE ALTERNATOR ATTACHED. THE A/C COMPRESSOR CAN GO NOW ALONG WITH ITS MOUNTING BRACKET.

(JOHN)>> LS SEVENS HAVE CENTER DUMP MANIFOLDS. SO THESE CAN BE REMOVED SINCE WE'LL RUN LONG TUBES ON THE DYNO. AND WE WANT NEED A STARTER, SO AWAY IT GOES. WE'LL USE OUR MATCO BALANCER REMOVER TOOL TO REMOVE THE FACTORY PIECE. THE PARTS REMOVED FROM THIS POINT ON WILL BE KEPT AROUND AND PUT TO GOOD USE IN THE FUTURE.

(MIKE)>> THE LS SEVEN HAS A COUPLE OF DRAIN PLUGS. THE FRONT ONE IS TO DRAIN THE EXTERNAL OIL TANK AND LINES THAT COME INTO THE SIDE OF THE PAN.

THE REAR ONE IS TO DRAIN THE PAN'S SUMP.

(JOHN)>> WITH THE PAN OUT OF THE WAY WE CAN REMOVE THE WINDAGE TRAY.

(MIKE)>> BACK UP FRONT THE TIMING COVER NEEDS TO COME OFF TO ACCESS THE OIL PUMP AND THE TIMING CHAIN. NOW HERE'S A BETTER LOOK AT THE PUMP SHOWING THE SCAVENGE AND THE SUPPLY SIDE. NOW WE NEED TO REMOVE THE VALVE COVERS, REMOVE THE ROCKERS, AND THE PUSH RODS TO TAKE THE PRESSURE OFF THE LIFTERS BEFORE WE PULL THE TIMING CHAIN.

(JOHN)>> COMPRESSION SOUNDS GOOD, RINGS SHOULD BE FINE.

(MIKE)>> NOW WE CAN PIN THE CHAIN TENSIONER, WHICH ALLOWS US TO REMOVE THE THREE CAM SPROCKET BOLTS AND THE REST OF THE ASSEMBLY. NORMALLY THIS WOULD BE THE TIME WE WOULD GO AHEAD AND

SWAP THE CAM SHAFT, BUT OUR PLANS ARE TO DO THE OIL SYSTEM SWAP FIRST AND GET A BASE LINE BACK ON THE DYNO. THEN WE'LL GO AHEAD AND SWAP THE CAM SHAFT AND SPRINGS AND SEE WHAT WE GET. RIGHT NOW IT'S TIME FOR A BREAK. WHEN WE COME BACK, THE NEW PARTS GO ON.

(JOHN)>> OUR LS SEVEN IS READY TO GET DRESSED. THIS TIME IT'S GONNA BE A LITTLE LESS FLASHY SINCE IT'S LOSING EVERYTHING RELATED TO THE DRET SYSTEM. NOW OUR FIRST NEW PART TO GO ON IS PRETTY IMPORTANT. IF YOU GET THIS WRONG IT WILL NOT RUN. WE'RE GONNA BE RUNNING A COMP CAMS LSX DOUBLE ROW WITH A FOURX SPROCKET AND A THREE BOLT CAM PATTERN. NOW THE COOL THING ABOUT THIS IS IT'S A DOUBLE ROW WITH A HEAT TREATED CHAIN THAT'S ALREADY BEEN PRESTRETCHED. WITH THE NONPOSITION CRANK SPROCKET PRESSED INTO PLACE, I'LL SET IT UP AT ZERO, WHICH MEANS THERE WILL BE NO RETARD OR ADVANCE OF THE CAM SHAFT IN RELATION TO THE CRANK SHAFT. MEDIUM STRENGTH LOCTITE WILL KEEP THE BOLTS IN PLACE. THIS TRICK FLOW DAMPENER IS MADE OF DURABLE OE PLASTIC AND PROVIDES A SMALL AMOUNT OF TENSION ON THE CHAIN, WHICH KEEPS IT FROM WHIPPING DURING GEAR CHANGES. NOW I'VE GOT A LITTLE TIP FOR YOU GUYS THAT WON'T COST BUT ABOUT FIVE DOLLARS BUT CAN SAVE YOU THOUSANDS. IF YOU'RE GONNA STOP DURING ANY PART OF YOUR ASSEMBLY, GO AWAY AND COME BACK, AFTER YOU'VE TORQUED A BOLT, PUT A LITTLE LINE ON IT. NOW THIS CAN DO TWO THINGS.

IT'S AN INSTANT VISUAL TO LET YOU KNOW WHAT'S BEEN TORQUED. BUT ALSO WHEN YOU TEAR THE MOTOR DOWN, IF THE LINES HAVE SEPARATED, YOU KNOW A BOLT HAS MOVED.

(MIKE)>> SINCE THE OIL PUMP IS BASICALLY THE HEART OF THE ENGINE, WE WANT IT TO WORK AS EFFICIENT AS POSSIBLE. SO WE'RE GONNA GO AHEAD AND KNOCK OFF ANY SHARP EDGES WHERE THE OIL GOES IN AND OUT OF THE PUMP. THAT'S GONNA GIVE THE OIL A NICE SMOOTH PATH TO FLOW. WHEN USING A GRINDER LIKE THIS, DON'T APPLY A LOT

OF PRESSURE OR RPM. LET THE CARTRIDGE ROLL DO THE WORK, YOU JUST GUIDE IT.

NOW AS YOU WORK AWAY THE EDGES, REMEMBER TO MAKE A SMOOTH RADIUS TO PROMOTE FLOW. NOW WE CAN WASH THE HOUSING AND IT'S READY TO GO ON.

(JOHN)>> I'M USING SILICONE TO HOLD THESE TWO SPACERS IN PLACE THAT WERE SUPPLIED WITH THE TIMING SET. THEY GO BETWEEN THE PUMP HOUSING AND THE BLOCK TO GIVE US THE CLEARANCE FOR THAT THICKER CHAIN. NOW JUST FINGER TIGHTEN THE PUMP FOR NOW. FIRST LUBE AND INSTALL THE CRANK SPROCKET. THEN THE DRIVEN GEAR WILL GO INTO PLACE. AND SHIM IT AGAINST THE PUMP HOUSING USING THREE ONE AND A HALF THOUSANDTHS SHIMS. NOW INSTALL THE DRIVE GEAR AND SHIM IT AGAINST THE CRANK SPROCKET WITH THE SAME SIZE SHIMS. AND WHEN THE PUMP IS TIGHTENED IN A CRISS CROSS PATTERN, IT'S ALIGNED WITH THE CRANK SHAFT AND WILL PREVENT PREMATURE PUMP HOUSING WEAR.

WITH A LITTLE LOCTITE ON THE COVER BOLTS WE CAN CLOSE THE PUMP BACK UP.

(MIKE)>> WHEN SPACING THE MELLING OIL PUMP AWAY FROM THE BLOCK TO CLEAR THE DOUBLE ROW TIMING SET, WE MOVED IT CLOSER TO THE TIMING COVER. NOW THAT CAUSED AN INTERFERENCE SO THE COVER WON'T SIT FLUSH AGAINST THE BLOCK BUT WE'VE GOT

AN EASY FIX FOR THAT. APPLY MACHINIST DYE AROUND THE AREA THE PUMP COMES CLOSEST TO THE COVER. NOW PUSH THE COVER TOWARDS THE PUMP AND WIGGLE IT AROUND AGAINST IT. REMOVE THE COVER AND YOU'LL HAVE BARE ALUMINUM SHOWING WHERE THE INTERFERENCE IS. WE HAVE A MARK HERE, HERE, AND HERE. THAT NEEDS TO BE CLEARANCED. BECAUSE THE MATERIAL IS SO THIN, USE A CARTRIDGE ROLL RATHER THAN A BURR TO KEEP FROM BREAKING THROUGH. USING THE GASKET INSTALL THE COVER AND JUST RUN IT DOWN. THE EXTRA THICKNESS OF THE GASKET WILL INSURE WE HAVE THE NECESSARY CLEARANCE. WE'LL TIGHTEN IT UP IN JUST A BIT.

(JOHN)>> THE FACTORY DIP STICK PAD IS STILL ON THE BLOCK WITHOUT A HOLE IN IT. THE ORIGINAL DIP STICK WAS IN THE EXTERNAL TANK.

AND TECH AFX OFFERS THE PERFECT SOLUTION TO ADD ONE WITH THIS DIP STICK DRILL GUIDE FOR THE LS SEVEN. NOW DRILL THROUGH THE BLOCK USING THE FIXTURE AS YOU GUIDE. THEN YOU CAN TEST FIT THE GM LS TUBE, WHICH SEALS TO THE BLOCK WITH AN ORING ONCE THE HOLE IS CHAMFERED.

(MIKE)>> THIS IS WHERE A FEW MORE SMALL CLEARANCE ISSUES COULD COME INTO PLAY BUT NO WORRIES, THEY'RE ALL SUPER SIMPLE FIXES.

NOW WE'RE LOSING THE LS SEVEN WINDAGE TRAY FOR AN LS THREE VERSION. NOW THIS THINGS JOB IS TO INTERRUPT THE VORTEX OF OIL CAUSED BY CRANK SHAFT ROTATION AND GET IT DOWN INTO THE SUMP FASTER SO THE PICK UP DOESN'T STARVE FOR OIL. NOW THIS ONE IS A LITTLE BIT SHORTER THAN THE LS SEVENS,

SO THAT COULD RAISE OUR FIRST CONCERN. WHEN THE PARTS IN THE ENGINE GET UP TO TEMPERATURE, THEY EXPAND. RIGHT NOW THIS IS NOT TOUCHING, BUT IT'S A LITTLE TOO CLOSE FOR COMFORT. SO WE'LL PLACE 10 WASHERS UNDERNEATH THE TRAY, DROP IT BACK IN PLACE, TORQUE IT TO SPEC, AND NOW YOU CAN SEE A LOT MORE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE TWO, WHICH THIS IS PLENTY.

(JOHN)>> NEXT UP IS THE OIL PUMP PICK UP, WHICH WAS SUPPLIED WITH THE PAN KIT.

THEN WE'LL APPLY SOME LOCTITE ANTISEIZE TO THE CRANK SNOUT AND INSTALL AN ATI LS THREE BALANCER.

REMEMBER WE LEFT THE TIMING COVER LOOSE TO ALLOW THE BALANCER TO CENTER IT. AN ARP BALANCER BOLT WILL KEEP IT SNUG AND TIED TO THE CRANK SHAFT. A HOLLEY PRO TOUR BAFFLE WITH THREE TRAP DOORS WILL KEEP OIL IN THE SUMP. IT'LL ALSO CONTROL OIL SLOSH AND IS DESIGNED TO BE A BOLT IN PIECE TO THEIR RETRO FIT OIL PANS. NOW ON A PREVIOUS LS BUILD WE HAD SOME OIL SEEPING PAST THE BOLTS THAT HOLD THE PAN ON. SO WE'LL USE A SMALL DAB OF SILICONE TO AVOID THAT PROBLEM. AND USING A STRAIGHT EDGE WE'LL MAKE SURE THAT THE FRONT AND REAR COVERS ARE FLUSH WITH THE BLOCK, AND IT'S A GOOD FIT. NOW WE CAN TIGHTEN THEM DOWN THE BOTTOM END IS SEALED UP. AND WHEN WE COME BACK WE'LL MEET YOU BACK IN THE DYNO.

(MIKE)>> YOU'VE GOT FOUR OVER THERE NOW DON'T YOU?

(JOHN)>> YES SIR.

(MIKE)>> YEAH I'M NOT A SIR YET DUDE. WE'RE BACK AND THE LS SEVEN IS DOCKED AND READY FOR ITS BOLT ONS. NOW WE'LL START WITH A SET OF HEADMAN HUSTLER MUSCLE ROD MID LENGTH HEADERS. THESE ARE FOR A FIRST GEN CAMARO WITH AN LS SWAP,

WHICH IS WHERE THIS ENGINE IS HEADING. THEY HAVE A THREEEIGHTHS INCH FLANGE TO AVOID WARPING AND A ONE AND THREE QUARTER INCH SET OF PRIMARIES DUMP INTO A THREE INCH COLLECTOR.

TO HOLD THEM IN PLACE A SET OF STAGE EIGHT LOCKING HEADER BOLTS.

WITH THEM TIGHT INSTALL THE LOCKING RETAINER AND FINALLY THE CLIP INTO THE GROOVE OF THE BOLT HEAD. NOW THERE'S NO CHANCE OF ONE COMING OUT. TO KEEP IT COOL A MAZERE ELECTRIC WATER PUMP.

(JOHN)>> FACTORY HARNESSES CAN BE PRETTY BULKY AND ACTUALLY CLUTTER UP AN ENGINE BAY. AND AFTERMARKET HARNESSES, WELL THEY CAN

BE KIND OF EXPENSIVE. SO THE BEST SOLUTION WE FOUND TO THIS IS BY AN EXGM ENGINEER THAT HAS ONE OF THE NICEST HARNESSES WE'VE EVER USED.

(MIKE)>> HIS COMPANY IS CALLED SPEAR TECH AND THIS IS THE LS SEVEN MANUAL WIRING HARNESS WITH ELECTRONIC THROTTLE CONTROL KIT. IT'S CUSTOM BUILT TO FIT THE ENGINE LIKE A GLOVE AND USES A HIGH TEMP, HIGH ABRASION RESISTANCE COVERING. TO PROTECT THE ENGINE'S CIRCUITS IT HAS ITS OWN FUSE BLOCK AND CAME WITH AN E-38 PREPROGRAMMED ECM, AND

THERE'S ONLY THREE CONNECTIONS FOR POWER.

NOW WE ATTACH THE RUBBER INLET ELBOW TO THE THROTTLE BODY, FOLLOWED BY THE MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR AND TUBE, AND TO CAP IT ALL OFF A CONICAL FILTER FROM AIRAID.

THIS AEROMOTIVE FITTING CONNECTS THE FACTORY FUEL RAIL TO A DASH EIGHT HOSE. JOHN YOU READY AND CLEAR?

(JOHN)>> YES SIR!

(MIKE)>> HERE WE GO. NOW SO FAR WE SWAPPED THE DRET OILING SYSTEM FOR A WET SUMP TO MAKE THIS LS SEVEN A MORE SWAP FRIENDLY ENGINE. WITH GOOD OIL PRESSURE AND THE ENGINE TO TEMP. THIS THING LOADS UP SO NICE. WE'RE MAKING A FEW BASE LINE RUNS BEFORE THE NEXT PHASE OF THIS BUILD. 493, 491.

(JOHN)>> ALRIGHT, THAT'S PRETTY PAR FOR A BRAND NEW SET OF RINGS ON THE FIRST PULL. [ engine revving ]

(JOHN)>> SOUNDED GOOD.

(MIKE)>> PULLED GOOD, I SAW A GOOD NUMBER ON THERE. YES SIR, 542 HORSEPOWER, 510 POUND FEET, THAT'S OUR BASELINE.

(JOHN)>> ALRIGHTY!

(MIKE)>> WHY ALL THE TEAR DOWN? TO GET READY FOR THE NEXT PHASE OF THIS PROJECT, WHICH IS A NEW CAM SHAFT AND INTAKE MANIFOLD. BY NOW WE ALL KNOW HOW WELL LS ENGINES RESPOND TO AFTERMARKET CAM SHAFTS. SO WE ORDERED THIS COMP ONE WITH THIS IN MIND, A BROAD TOP END POWER RANGE. NOW IT REQUIRES A SPRING UPGRADE, WHICH WE'VE GOT COVERED. IT HAS AN RPM RANGE FROM 2,400 TO 7,200 RPM, AND IT'S IN COMP'S ALL OUT POWER FAMILY.

DURATION AT 50 FOR THE INTAKE IS 239, EXHAUST IS

255, VALVE LIFT IS 624 ON THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST.

THE INTAKE CENTER LINE IS 110 DEGREES. HEADS HAVE TO COME OFF SO WE CAN REPLACE THE VALVE SPRINGS DUE TO OUR HIGHER LIFT CAM SHAFT.

NOW EVEN THOUGH THE OLD SPRING LOOKS LIKE THE

NEW SPRING, THEY'RE COMPLETELY DIFFERENT. NOW THE FACTORY SPRING IS ONLY GOOD TO 600 INCH OF

LIFT BEFORE WE RUN INTO COIL BIND. YOU CAN SEE RIGHT HERE WE HAVE NO MORE ROOM ON OUR CAM SHAFT LIFT. NOW WITH OUR NEW SPRINGS SET UP AT THE EXACT SAME HEIGHT AT 600, YOU CAN SEE HOW MUCH EXTRA ROOM WE HAVE FOR MORE LIFT. THEY ALSO HAVE A HIGHER SPRING RATE WHICH CAN HANDLE MORE RPM.

(MIKE)>> WITH ALL THE ORIGINAL COMPONENTS BOLTED ON, HERE COMES THE FAST 102 MILLIMETER INTAKE MANIFOLD THAT WILL COMPLIMENT THE ADDITIONAL CAM SHAFT LIFT.

IT'S CONSTRUCTED OF POLYMER AND ACCEPTS ALL THE FACTORY HARDWARE. NOW WE INSTALLED FAST RAILS AND NEW 39 POUND INJECTORS. WITH A NEW TUNE IN THE ECM, GOOD OIL PRESSURE, AND ENGINE WARMED UP, WE'RE READY TO GO. [ engine revving ]

(MIKE)>> 612, 541 FOOT POUNDS OF TORQUE.

(JOHN)>> IT'S A GOOD START, IT'S STILL CLIMBING THOUGH.

(MIKE)>> WITH A FEW RUNS TO 6,500 RPM THIS LS SEVEN IS MAKING AWESOME POWER. 615 ON POWER, 548 AT TORQUE, PICKED UP SEVEN FOOT POUNDS.

(JOHN)>> THAT'S GOOD POWER, THAT'S A CLEAN GRAPH TOO.

(MIKE)>> MAN THAT THING LOOKS BEAUTIFUL.

(JOHN)>> IT'S BETTER ALL THE WAY AROUND.

(MIKE)>> ALRIGHT JOHNNY, I'M GONNA TAKE IT AN EXTRA 300 TO 6,800 TO SEE IF ITS STILL MAKING POWER FROM THERE.

(JOHN)>> OKAY! [ engine revving ]

(MIKE)>> NICE SMOOTH PULL, 622 HORSEPOWER, 548 FOOT POUNDS.

(JOHN)>> NICE!

(MIKE)>> NICE, LEVEL, FLAT CURVE TOO. IT'S MAINTAINING THAT POWER BUT IT'S NOT CLIMBING. MAN ITS STILL GONNA BE PULLING THAT CAR DOWN THE ROAD.

(JOHN)>> THAT'S GONNA BE A FAST '67.

(MIKE)>> WE CONVERTED THE OIL SYSTEM FROM THE FACTORY DRET SYSTEM TO A TRUE WET SUMP. THAT MADE THIS LS SEVEN MORE COMPACT FOR SWAPS. AFTER THE PERFORMANCE PARTS WE MADE A GAIN OF 80 HORSEPOWER FROM OUR BASELINE. THAT IS THE PERFECT EXAMPLE OF WHY LS POWER PLANTS ARE SO POPULAR.

WE'LL BE RIGHT BACK.

(JOHN)>> LS ENGINES ARE TAKING OVER THE STREETS AND THE THE RACE TRACK, MOSTLY BECAUSE THEY'RE AFFORDABLE AND RESPOND WELL TO AFTERMARKET PARTS. HERE'S A LITTLE TRICK THAT'LL LEAD TO MORE

ACCURATE IGNITION TIMING AND GIVE YOU MORE TUNING CAPABILITIES. BY USING THIS GOODSON RELUCTOR WHEEL JIG, I'M

GONNA BE ABLE TO SHOW YOU GUYS HOW TO CHANGE AN LS CRANK SHAFT OVER FROM A 24 TOOTH RELUCTOR TO A 58 TOOTH. THE REASON IS I WANT TO RUN A LATE MODEL COMPUTER ON THIS THING LATER ON DOWN THE ROAD, LIKE AN E-38 OR SOMETHING. BUT THE PROBLEM IS THIS CRANK'S FROM AN OLD STYLE ENGINE AND IT HAS A 24 TOOTH RELUCTOR. SO THE FIRST THING WE NEED TO DO IS GET IT OFF. WE'LL USE OUR MATCO AIR CHISEL TO REMOVE THE RING. NOW DON'T TRY THIS WITH A HAMMER CAUSE YOU COULD MISS, DAMAGE THE CRANK. A SLIGHT CHAMFER NEEDS TO BE PUT IN THE NEW RELUCTOR'S RING SEAT AND THE LEADING EDGE. NOW THE RING MUST BE CLOCKED CORRECTLY TO THE CRANK SHAFT OR A FAULTY SIGNAL WILL BE READ FROM THE CRANK SENSOR. THE GOODSON JIG WILL PRECISELY ALIGN IT AND KEEP IT SQUARE FOR THE NEXT STEP. SOME SLOW AND STEADY PRESSURE TO THE TOP OF THE JIG. WITH THE RING SEATED, WE CAN REMOVE THE JIG AND THE CRANK'S READY FOR ITS NEXT VENTURE.

(MIKE)>> A STOCK CLUTCH WON'T LAST BEHIND AN LS

SEVEN MAKING THE KIND OF POWER WE DID BACK ON THE DYNO TODAY, BUT THIS QUARTERMASTER OPTIMUM SR WILL. IT'S A 10.4 INCH SINGLE DISC CLUTCH MADE FOR LATE MODEL CORVETTES, CAMAROS, AND PONTIAC GEIGHTS. NOW IT'LL HANDLE 500 FOOT POUNDS OF TORQUE AND 700 HORSEPOWER. NOW IT'S COMPLETELY REBUILDABLE AND 50 PERCENT LIGHTER THAN A STOCK PIECE. PLUS IT'LL GIVE YOU THAT FACTORY PEDAL FEEL. NOW IT COMES WITH THE FLYWHEEL ATTACHED, AND IT'S ALL BILLET CONSTRUCTION IS HELD TOGETHER WITH AIRCRAFT GRADE FASTENERS. YOU CAN GET ONE IN YOUR RIDE FOR JUST OVER $2,100 BUCKS.

(JOHN)>> DO YOU HAVE AN OPTIMA BATTERY THAT YOU NEED TO GET SECURED INTO YOUR HOT ROD? WELL GOOD CAUSE I'VE GOT SOMETHING I WANT TO SHOW YOU. IT'S A FESSLER BUILT BATTERY MOUNT FOR THE MOST POPULAR OPTIMA SERIES, THE 34 AND THE 3478. NOW IT'S 100 PERCENT CNC MACHINED OUT OF A BILLET CHUNK OF ALUMINUM, AND THIS ONE'S ACTUALLY POLISHED TO JEWELRY FINISH. IT'S AN ABSOLUTE GREAT WAY TO CLEAN UP THE ENGINE BAY OR THE TRUNK, IF THAT'S WHERE YOU'VE GOT IT. NOW IF THE POLISHED DOESN'T SUIT YOUR FANCY, THEY'RE ALSO OFFERED IN A NATURAL FINISH OR YOU CAN GET THEM ANODIZED. NOW YOU CAN CHECK OUT THE ONES YOU WANT AT SUMMIT

RACING DOT COM WITH PRICES STARTING AT $129 BUCKS.

(MIKE)>> HOW WOULD YOU LIKE BETTER FUEL EFFICIENCY, THROTTLE RESPONSE, AND MORE LOWER END TORQUE OUT OF YOUR CHEVY OR GMC TRUCK OR SUV? WELL FOR $50 BUCKS YOU CAN ADD ONE OF VOLANT VORTICE'S THROTTLE BODY SPACERS AND GAIN UP TO 15 FOOT POUNDS OF TORQUE. NOW THIS THING WILL WORK WITH YOUR FACTORY AIR BOX OR WITH ONE OF VOLANT'S COLD AIR SYSTEMS. IT'S MADE FROM A GLASS FILLED NYLON COMPOSITE, SO IT WON'T CORRODE LIKE ALUMINUM, AND YOU CAN PICK YOURS UP AT SUMMIT RACING DOT COM.

WELL THAT'S IT FOR THIS WEEK'S ENGINE POWER, WE'LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME.