Xtreme Xpedition Upgrades

(NARRATOR)>> OUR LAND ROVER D-90 PROJECT COMBINES CLASSIC BRITISH STYLE WITH MODERN AMERICAN PERFORMANCE. TODAY ON XTREME OFF ROAD THE TURBO DIESEL EXPEDITION RIG RECEIVES A HEAVY DUTY CLUTCH DESIGNED TO TRANSMIT THE TORQUE, ALONG WITH TUNABLE COIL OVER SHOCKS, AIR LOCKERS, AND MORE.

(IAN)>> TODAY WE ARE BACK WORKING ON OUR D-90 PROJECT WE'RE CALLING "THE XTREME XPEDITION RIG". NOW THE LAST TIME WE WORKED ON THIS TRUCK WE WEREN'T EVEN HERE IN THE SHOP. WE WERE UP IN COLUMBUS, INDIANA, ASSEMBLING OUR OWN RTWO POINT EIGHT CUMMINS FOUR CYLINDER ENGINE AT THEIR SECRET ENGINE FACILITY JUST OFF MCGUFFIN LANE. NOW THE WHOLE IDEA FROM THIS PROJECT FROM THE BEGINNING WAS TO TURN AN ICONIC VEHICLE INTO A GREAT DAILY DRIVER EXPEDITION WHEELER. THERE IS NO QUESTION THAT THE D-90 IS A VEHICLE THAT HAS WORLDWIDE APPEAL, BUT IT DOES HAVE A FEW INTERESTING TRAITS THAT MAKE IT LESS THAN IDEAL FOR SERIOUS EXPEDITION TRAVEL. OUR PLAN IS TO FIX ALL OF THAT BY GETTING RID OF MOST OF THE LAND ROVER UNDER THIS D-90. A JEEP JK FRAME WAS SLID UNDERNEATH THE BODY, ALONG WITH A JKS SUSPENSION SYSTEM, ONE TON AXLES, 37 INCH TALL BF GOODRICH TIRES, AND A NEW DIESEL ENGINE, AND I MEAN BRAND NEW. SO NEW THAT WE GOT TO BUILD IT OURSELVES. TODAY WE'RE GONNA ASSEMBLE THE DRIVETRAIN FOR GOOD AND DROP IT INTO THE CHASSIS. IT'S GONNA START BY MODIFYING OUR CUMMINS RTWO POINT EIGHT FLYWHEEL. PAT IS GONNA USE HIS MSC VECTRAX 10 BY 54 VERTICAL MILL AND A THREE INCH CARBIDE INDEX CUTTER TO REMOVE OVER TWO POUNDS OF MATERIAL FROM THE FACE OF OUR TWO POINT EIGHT FLYWHEEL.

(PAT)>> OH, IT FEELS LIGHTER.

(IAN)>> THE FLYWHEEL IS THEN TORQUED BACK ONTO THE BACK OF THE ENGINE...

...AND THE DOWEL PINS ARE INSTALLED INTO THE FLYWHEEL.

THE ADAPTER PLATE IS THEN BOLTED UP USING SOME RED PERMATEX THREAD LOCKER.

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(IAN)>> NOW THE REASON THAT WE WENT AHEAD AND MACHINED THE FACTORY FLYWHEEL ON THIS TWO POINT EIGHT WAS JUST TO REMOVE SOME OF THE ROTATING MASS. NOW WE ONLY TOOK TWO POUNDS OFF IT. THAT DOESN'T SOUND LIKE A LOT BUT ANYTHING THAT WE CAN DO TO LIGHTEN UP THE WEIGHT AT THE BACK OF THIS ENGINE WILL HELP WITH A LITTLE BIT QUICKER ENGINE ACCELERATION, OR FASTER MOVEMENT UP THE RPM SCALE BECAUSE YOU HAVE TO REMEMBER, THIS ALUMINUM ADAPTER THAT WE GOT FROM ADVANCED ADAPTERS, WELL WE'RE GONNA BE STACKING ANOTHER FLYWHEEL RIGHT ON THE BACK OF IT. THE ADAPTER USES A FACTORY JEEP FOUR LITER FLYWHEEL THAT WE ORDERED FROM ROCK AUTO DOT COM. WE'LL BOLT IT UP WITH SOME ARP FLYWHEEL FASTENERS TO ENSURE A STRONG CONNECTION. ON TO THE FLYWHEEL AN EXEDY STAGE TWO JEEP FOUR LITER CLUTCH KIT. THIS IS A HEAVY DUTY PERFORMANCE CLUTCH KIT FOR THE FOUR LITER JEEP ENGINE, WITH ADVANCED FRICTION COMPOSITES THAT ARE DESIGNED TO NOT BE EFFECTED BY WATER SUBMERSION. ADD TO THAT AN SFI CERTIFIED PRESSURE PLATE WITH INCREASED THICKNESS, EXTRA HOLDING CAPACITY, AND A CLAMPING LOAD JUST UNDER 2,500 POUNDS, THIS CLUTCH KIT WILL WORK PERFECTLY WITH OUR TWO POINT EIGHT DIESEL ENGINE. THE CLUTCH FORK ASSEMBLY IS ASSEMBLED INSIDE THE BELL HOUSING AND THE ENGINE IS PULLED OFF OF THE PALLET AND THEY ARE MATED TOGETHER.

NOW THAT OUR ENGINE, TRANSMISSION, AND CLUTCH ARE ASSEMBLED FOR GOOD WE CAN GO AHEAD AND DROP IT IN BETWEEN THE FRAME RAILS OF THE TRUCK. WE WON'T BOLT THE TRANSFER CASE ON UNTIL THIS PART OF THE DRIVETRAIN IS MOUNTED IN PLACE. WE'LL JUST LIFT THE TRANSFER CASE UP FROM UNDERNEATH. THE NEXT STEP FOR US IS TO BRING THE TRUCK BACK INTO THE SHOP.

OUR CUSTOM ENGINE MOUNTS WILL GET A COAT OF DUPLICOLOR ENAMEL FLAT BLACK PAINT.

AND ONCE THE ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION ARE IN PLACE, THEY'RE BOLTED ONTO THE BLOCK AND INTO THE FACTORY JK FRAME MOUNTS.

NOW YOU MAY HAVE NOTICED THAT THE FRONT END OF THIS RIG IS SITTING UP A LITTLE BIT HIGHER THAN THE REAR, AND THAT'S PROBABLY BECAUSE THIS CUMMINS RTWO POINT EIGHT ENGINE DOES NOT WEIGH THAT MUCH MORE THAN THE FACTORY VSIX THAT NORMALLY SITS INSIDE THIS FRAME, AND THE JEEP JK PROBABLY HAS MORE WEIGHT TO THE BODY ON THE FRONT THAN OUR D-90 HAS. NOW I TALKED TO THE GUYS AT JKS ABOUT POSSIBLY SWAPPING OUT TO A LITTLE BIT SOFTER RATE COIL SPRING UP FRONT TO LOWER THIS RIG DOWN, BUT THEY CAME UP WITH AN EVEN BETTER PLAN.

(NARRATOR)>> AND THAT PLAN INVOLVES SOME CUTTING AND SOME COIL OVERS. PLUS THE D-90 GETS LOCKERS AND GEARS BUILT TO HANDLE ROCKIN' ROAD.

(IAN)>> THE FRONT END OF OUR D-90 IS SITTING TOO TALL, BUT INSTEAD OF JUST REPLACING OUR COIL SPRING WE'RE GONNA UPGRADE THE FRONT SUSPENSION BECAUSE WHEN YOU'RE TALKING ABOUT TUNABILITY ON THE FRONT OF YOUR SUSPENSION NOTHING IS GONNA BEAT A SET OF COIL OVER SHOCKS. NOW NORMALLY THAT WOULD MEAN A WHOLE BUNCH OF CUSTOM FAB BUT NOT ANYMORE. JKS NOW OFFERS A COMPLETE BOLT IN COIL OVER CONVERSION KIT FOR THE JEEP JK. IT INCLUDES A TWO POINT ZERO FOX DUAL RATE COIL OVER SHOCK WITH DSC COMPRESSION ADJUSTORS TO FINE TUNE THE SUSPENSION WITHOUT HAVING TO DISASSEMBLE THE SHOCK TO ADJUST THE VALVING. IT INCLUDES ALL THE BRACKETS NEEDED TO ADD COIL OVERS TO THE FRONT OF YOUR JEEP WITHOUT A PILE OF CUSTOM FAB.

[ saw cutting metal ] [ hammer tapping metal ]

(IAN)>> THE JKS BRACKET WILL REPLACE THE STOCK UPPER SHOCK MOUNT ON OUR FRAME. WITH THE FRAME RAIL CLEAN, THE BRACKET IS PUT INTO PLACE USING TWO FACTORY HOLES FOR ALIGNMENT.

TWO HOLES ARE CENTER PUNCHED AND DRILLED.

THE BRACKET IS THEN INSTALLED, AND ONCE ALL THE FASTENERS ARE STARTED THEY CAN BE TIGHTENED UP, FOLLOWED BY OUR 10 INCH STROKE COIL OVER SHOCK. THE JKS KIT DOES COME WITH A NEW LOWER COIL OVER SHOCK MOUNT THAT LOCKS IN OFF THE FACTORY CONTROL ARM BOLT AS WELL AS A STOCK JEEP JK SPRING BUCKET. NOW WE'RE NOT GONNA USE THIS BECAUSE OUR RTECH INDUSTRIES ONE TON JK SWAP TRUSSES HAVE A SHOCK MOUNT THAT IS BEEFY ENOUGH TO WORK WITH THIS COIL OVER SHOCK. THE NICE THING ABOUT NOW HAVING COIL OVERS ON THE FRONT OF THIS PROJECT IS I WILL BE ABLE TO ADJUST THE RIDE HEIGHT AS WELL AS HOW THE SUSPENSION REACTS BY CHANGING OUT THE SPRING RATE, OR BY ADJUSTING THE DSC KNOBS, CONSIDERING THE FACT THAT WE HAVE SORT OF A HYBRID VEHICLE HERE. IF YOU HAVE A JEEP JK AND YOU WANT TO DO THIS SWAP IT IS ACTUALLY SETUP PERFECTLY FOR YOU TO HIT THE ROAD AND THE TRAIL RIGHT OUT OF THE GATE, AND IF YOU COUPLE IT WITH A SET OF THESE JKS JAXIS UPPER AND LOWER CONTROL ARMS THAT ARE EQUIPPED WITH A FINE THREAD ADJUSTMENT WITH A BRASS BEARING INSIDE, YOU'LL HAVE AN INFINITE AMOUNT OF ADJUSTMENT ON THE FRONT OF YOUR JEEP. FOR US IT'S THE PERFECT PACKAGE BECAUSE WE'VE MIXED SO MANY PARTS ON THIS RIG, INCLUDING A FRAME, AND A BODY, AND A DIFFERENT MOTOR. IT JUST GIVES US THE ULTIMATE TUNABILITY. TO COMPLETE THIS COIL OVER CONVERSION THE SAME PROCEDURE HAPPENS ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE TRUCK.

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(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT WE DROP AIR LOCKERS AND 4.10 GEARS INTO OUR ONE TON AXLES. PLUS RIGHT HAND DRIVE STEERING ON A LEFT HAND DRIVE FRAME IS EASIER TO INSTALL THAN YOU MIGHT THINK.

(IAN)>> WE ARE BACK ON XTREME WORKING ON OUR D-90. THE NEXT STEP IS TO BUILD BOTH OF OUR ONE TON AXLES.

KEEPING WITH THE THEME OF DRIVETRAIN INSTALLATION ON OUR D-90 PROJECT, IT'S TIME TO TACKLE OUR AXLES. NOW ORIGINALLY WE JUST TACKED ALL THESE SUSPENSION BRACKETS INTO PLACE TO FIT THESE ONE TON AXLES UNDERNEATH OUR JEEP JK FRAME AND USE AN OFF THE SHELF SUSPENSION. WE TEST FIT THEM AND THEY WORK GREAT. NOW WE HAVE TO DEAL WITH THE ACTUAL INTERNALS. THAT MEANS GEARS, LOCKERS, AND FINISH WELDING ON ALL THESE BRACKETS.

FIRST THE AXLE IS COMPLETELY TORN DOWN TO A BARE HOUSING, REMOVING THE AXLE AND DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER.

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(IAN)>> THE ALIGNMENT BAR IS INSTALLED TO ENSURE THAT THE AXLE HOUSING IS STRAIGHT, AND THE SUSPENSION BRACKETS AND TRUSS ASSEMBLY ARE BURNED IN FOR GOOD. [ welder crackling ]

[ grinder spinning ]

(IAN)>> THE HOUSING IS THEN CLEANED AND PREPPED FOR A GOOD COAT OF SEMI GLOSS BLACK DUPLICOLOR PAINT.

THE INTERNALS FOR BOTH OUR REAR STERLING AXLE AND FRONT DANA 60 WILL BE IDENTICAL. IT'LL BE A SET OF ARB AIR LOCKERS WITH SOME REVOLUTION GEAR AND AXLE 4.10 TO ONE GEARS, AND WE'RE GONNA INSTALL IT ALL WITH A COUPLE OF MASTER INSTALL KITS. NOW WHENEVER YOU'RE DEALING WITH A SHORT WHEEL BASE RIG, LIKE OUR D-90, THAT YOU PLAN TO DRIVE ON AND OFF ROAD YOU DEFINITELY WANT TO CHOOSE SOME TYPE OF SELECTABLE LOCKER. A MECHANICAL LOCKER CAN ENGAGE WHEN YOU'RE DRIVING ON THE STREET MAKING A TIGHT CORNER. THEN IF YOU'RE DRIVING IN WET OR SNOWY CONDITIONS IT CAN CAUSE THE BACK END OF THE TRUCK TO KICK OUT, MAKING IT UNPREDICTABLE. IF YOU'RE DEALING WITH AN EXPEDITION TRAVEL RIG SELECTABLE LOCKER IS DEFINITELY THE WAY TO GO. ANOTHER NICE THING ABOUT USING THE AIR LOCKER IS THAT WE HAVE TO ADD A COMPRESSED AIR SOURCE TO ACTIVATE THE LOCKER, BUT WE CAN USE IT FOR MORE THAN JUST THAT. WE'RE USING THIS ARB TWIN AIR COMPRESSOR. NOW THIS IS TWO AIR COMPRESSORS WITH A SMALL TANK INSIDE. NOW THAT WILL POWER OUR AIR LOCKERS, BUT WE'LL ALSO USE IT TO FILL UP THIS ONE GALLON AIR TANK. THAT WILL MAKE AIRING UP TIRES A LOT FASTER AFTER A DAY ON THE TRAIL, BUT WE CAN ALSO USE IT AROUND THE CAMP SITE. WE CAN USE TO RUN AIR TOOLS, OR MAYBE FILL UP AN AIR MATTRESS FOR A NICE, COMFY PLACE TO SLEEP. IF YOU'RE BUILDING AN EXPEDITION TRAVEL RIG A PACKAGE LIKE THIS IS PERFECT.

IT ALL STARTS AT THE PRESS BY INSTALLING THE SIDE BEARINGS ON TO THE ARB LOCKER. THE PINION DEPTH ON THE STERLING IS ADJUSTED BY THE SHIM UNDER THE PINION BEARING. TO OBTAIN A BASELINE MEASUREMENT THE BEARING IS REMOVED FROM THE ORIGINAL PINION AND THE SAME AMOUNT OF SHIMS ARE INSTALLED ONTO THE NEW PINION, AND THE BEARING IS PRESSED ON.

THE RING GEAR IS THEN INSTALLED ONTO THE LOCKER, AND THE RING GEAR BOLTS ARE SECURED USING SOME RED PERMATEX THREAD LOCKER TO PREVENT THEM FROM LOOSENING UNDER LOAD. [ drill spinning ]

(IAN)>> NEW PINION RACES ARE INSTALLED INTO THE AXLE HOUSING, AND THE PINION IS SLID INTO PLACE AND THE YOKE IS INSTALLED. ONCE THE CRUSH SLEEVE STARTS TO COMPRESS WE CHECK ROTATIONAL LOAD WHILE SLOWLY TIGHTENING THE PINION NUT UNTIL THE DESIRED ROTATIONAL LOAD OF 25 INCH POUNDS IS ACHIEVED. THE AIR LOCKER IS THEN DROPPED INTO THE HOUSING, AND SHIMS ARE PLACED BETWEEN THE SIDE BEARING RACES AND THE AXLE HOUSING TO ACHIEVE A BACKLASH MEASUREMENT OF SEVEN THOUSANDTHS OF AN INCH. THE BEARING CAPS ARE THEN TORQUED TO 80 FOOT POUNDS, AND THE ARB AIR LINE IS CUT TO LENGTH AND RAN THROUGH THE BULKHEAD FITTING IN THE HOUSING.

(NARRATOR)>> DO YOU REALLY THINK WE'D BUILD A CLASSIC BRITISH TRAIL RIG WITH LEFT HAND DRIVE? COR BLIMEY! WE'LL DO WHAT IT TAKES TO KEEP THE STEERING WHEEL ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE RIG!

(IAN)>> WE'RE FOCUSING ON THE DRIVETRAIN ON OUR D-90 AND THE REAR AXLE IS BACK UNDERNEATH THE RIG. I'VE ALREADY GONE AHEAD AND INSTALLED OUR ARB AIR LOCKER AND 4.10 RING AND PINION IN OUR FRONT DANA 60. FINISHED IT OFF WITH ONE OF THESE HEAVY DUTY ARB DIFF COVERS. SO THIS NOT ONLY PROTECTS THE GEAR SET INSIDE BUT ALSO GIVES US A MAGNETIC DRAIN PLUG AS WELL AS A FILL PLUG WITH A DIP STICK SO YOU FINE TUNE THE LEVEL INSIDE THE AXLE. THIS IS A GOOD INVESTMENT IF YOU DO ANYTHING INSIDE YOUR AXLE. GO FOR A HEAVY DUTY DIFF COVER TO PROTECT IT BECAUSE THERE'S A LOT OF MONEY IN THERE. NOW THE REASON I HAVEN'T STUFFED THIS AXLE BACK UNDERNEATH THE FRONT OF OUR D-90 ALL REVOLVES AROUND THIS MOUNT RIGHT HERE. THIS IS THE PAN HARD BAR MOUNT. NOW ON A JK FRAME LIKE THIS IS HELPS LOCATE THE AXLE. IT TRAVELS FROM THIS MOUNT ON THE AXLE UP TO THIS MOUNT ON THE FRAME AT AN ANGLE. THE PROBLEM IS OUR D-90 IS RIGHT HAND DRIVE, AND I WANT TO KEEP IT RIGHT HAND DRIVE. THAT'S ONE OF THE REASON'S WHY I CHOSE A JK FRAME. THEY MADE JK'S RIGHT HAND DRIVE. ALL I HAVE TO DO NOW IS MODIFY THIS MOUNT AND THIS MOUNT SO THEY'RE ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE TRUCK. THE ORIGINAL PAN HARD MOUNT IS SURGICALLY REMOVED FROM THE JEEP FRAME RAIL, AND THE FRAME IS GROUND SMOOTH. THE LOCATION OF THE FACTORY STEERING BOX THROUGH HOLES IS MEASURED AND TRANSFERRED TO THE RIGHT HAND SIDE OF THE FRAME. I DID LOOK FOR A RIGHT HAND DRIVE JEEP JK FRAME BUT I WAS UNABLE TO FIND ONE IN GOOD SHAPE. SO DRILLING THE FRAME, ENLARGING THE HOLES TO ONE INCH, AND CUTTING SOME ONE INCH DOM TUBING TO FIT IN THE FRAME IS THE BEST WAY TO CONVERT THIS RIG OVER TO RIGHT HAND DRIVE.

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(IAN)>> WHENEVER YOU MOUNT SOMETHING TO ONE OF THESE MODERN FRAMES YOU NEED TO ADD PIECES OF TUBING INSIDE IF YOU'RE GONNA THROUGH BOLT IT. THEY'RE ON THE OTHER SIDE FOR GOOD REASON. THESE FRAMES ARE A LOT THINNER THAN YOU THINK. IF YOU JUST RUN A BOLT THROUGH THEM AND START TIGHTENING IT DOWN THE FRAME WILL ACTUALLY START TO CRUSH, AND THE BOX CAN BECOME LOOSE AND TEAR RIGHT OFF. THE NEXT STEP IS TO MOUNT OUR PAN HARD BAR. MY PLAN IS TO REUSE THE MOUNT THAT I CUT OFF THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THE FRAME. WHEN I ORDERED OUR SUSPENSION SYSTEM I SPECIFIED IT FOR A RIGHT HAND DRIVE JEEP. SO THE PAN HARD BAR WILL BE SETUP CORRECTLY FOR THE MOUNT ON THIS SIDE OF THE RIG, AND AT THAT POINT THIS JEEP WILL BE CONVERTED TO RIGHT HAND DRIVE TO MATCH THE BODY.

WHENEVER YOU'RE BUILDING A CUSTOM VEHICLE YOU ARE EVENTUALLY GONNA HAVE TO PUT A ROUND HOLE INTO SOME TYPE OF METAL OR MATERIAL ON YOUR RIG. NOW WHETHER THAT HOLE IS FOR A BOLT TO GO THROUGH TO BOLT SOMETHING ON, MAYBE MOUNT A GAUGE IN YOUR DASH, OR A SMALL HOLE IN SOME SHEET METAL FOR A PLUG WELD TO PUT A PATCH PANEL ON YOUR BODY. THERE'S ALWAYS A REASON TO CREATE A ROUND HOLE, AND THERE'S MANY DIFFERENT WAYS TO DO IT. A STANDARD DRILL BIT IS PROBABLY THE MOST COMMON. A SET OF GOOD, QUALITY DRILL BITS ARE ESSENTIAL FOR ANY SHOP. THEY MAKE QUICK WORK OF MOST MATERIALS AND COME IN MANY DIFFERENT SIZES. YOU CAN EVEN GET DOUBLE ENDED BITS, POPULAR FOR PEOPLE WHO USE A LOT OF POP RIVETS OR KLICKO FASTENERS. A STEP BIT MAKES QUICK WORK OF THINNER MATERIAL, AND WORKS WELL WHEN NEEDING A LARGE HOLE IN A FIREWALL OR A FLOOR FOR AN ELECTRICAL PASS THROUGH. FOR HOLES LARGER THAN AN INCH HOLE SAWS WORK GREAT, BUT ON THICKER MATERIAL THEY TEND TO GET BURNT UP PRETTY FAST. WHEN ENLARGING AN EXISTING HOLE THE BEST WAY TO DO IT IS WITH A REAMER INSTEAD OF A DRILL BIT. THE REAMER HAS FLUTED CUTTERS DESIGNED TO CUT ON THE SIDE OF THE HOLE AND MAKE IT LARGER. IT WILL LEAVE YOU WITH A MORE FINISHED HOLE FOR A FASTENER TO FIT THROUGH CLEANLY. ONCE YOU'VE CHOSEN THE CORRECT BIT FOR YOUR JOB, THE NEXT DECISION YOU HAVE TO MAKE IS WHAT DRILL OR DRILL MOTOR WILL YOU MOUNT IT IN? NOW A GO TO FAVORITE FOR YEARS WAS THE GOOD OLE ELECTRIC HAND DRILL. PLUGGED IT INTO THE WALL, MOUNT THE BIT, AND YOU CAN DRILL ALL DAY LONG WITH THIS. THE ONLY DOWNFALL IS YOU'RE TETHERED BY HOW LONG YOUR EXTENSION CORD IS TO THE DRILL ITSELF. THAT'S WHY CORDLESS DRILLS BECAME SO POPULAR. THEY'RE PORTABLE, YOU CAN USE THEM ANYWHERE IN THE SHOP, AND THE BATTERY TECHNOLOGY HAS BECOME SO GOOD THAT THESE WILL OFTEN LAST YOU ALL DAY IN THE SHOP WORKING, AND YOU CAN USE THEM WITH MANY DIFFERENT TYPES OF BITS, BUT IF YOU'RE GONNA BE DOING ANY SERIOUS DRILLING, AND IN PARTICULAR REAMING, NOTHING WILL BEAT AN AIR POWERED DRILL. THE AIR POWERED DRILL HAS A TREMENDOUS AMOUNT OF TORQUE, ABLE TO RUN A REAMER THROUGH A CAST IRON KNUCKLE WITHOUT ANY ISSUES AT ALL. ANOTHER BENEFIT TO THE AIR DRILL IS THAT BECAUSE THERE'S NO ELECTRIC MOTOR IN THE DRILL AND IT'S JUST USING COMPRESSED AIR YOU CAN USE IT IN THE PRESENCE OF EXPLOSIVE VAPORS AND NOT WORRY ABOUT STARTING A FIRE.