4x4 Mayhem

(ANNOUNCER)>> IT BEGAN AS A FEW STICKS OF TUBING ON A FRAME TABLE AND GREW INTO ONE OF OUR MOST EXTREME PROJECTS EVER. AFTER A YEAR OF HARD WORK AND LATE NIGHTS PROJECT RAGING BULL IS UNLEASHED INTO THE WILD. PLUS CRAWLER HAULER GETS READY FOR HEAVY DUTY HAULING. AND IF YOU WANT A WORLD CLASS FINISH ON YOUR RIG

WEAVE WELDING IS THE WAY TO GO.

(IAN)>> WE'RE AT THE POINT WITH THE CRAWLER HAULER PROJECT WHERE IT'S TIME TO COMPLETELY TEAR IT APART, FINISH EVERYTHING PERFECTLY, AND BEGIN FINAL ASSEMBLY. NOW THIS IS WHERE THINGS GET A LITTLE BIT HECTIC BECAUSE HONESTLY THE TRUCK IS SO CLOSE TO BEING DONE I'D PREFER TO JUST THROW SOME FUEL LINES ON IT, HOOK IT UP, DRIVE IT OUT OF THE SHOP AND START USING IT. BUT THEN I WOULD NEVER FINISH ALL THOSE LITTLE ITEMS TO MAKE THIS TRUCK 100 PERCENT DONE. THEY WOULD JUST NEVER GET TAKEN CARE OF. SO IT'S WORTH STOPPING NOW, DISASSEMBLING, AND MAKING SURE THIS TRUCK IS DONE RIGHT.

[ welder crackling ]

[ grinder spinning ]

(IAN)>> IF YOU'RE BUILDING YOUR OWN CRAWLER HAULER PROJECT, OR EVEN IF YOU'VE GOT AN OPEN CAR TRAILER THAT YOU USE TO HAUL YOUR RIG TO THE TRAIL, YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE PROPER ATTACHMENT POINTS FOR YOUR RATCHET STRAP. THAT'S WHY I WELDED ON THESE DRING SHACKLE MOUNTS THAT I GOT FROM MAX CUSTOM TIE DOWNS. NOW SURE, I PROBABLY COULD'VE JUST TAKEN A RATCHET STRAP AND HOOKED INTO A COUPLE OF OPEN PIECES OF TUBING ON THE BED LIKE THIS, BUT IT'S NOT THE CORRECT WAY. AND IT'S DEFINITELY NOT SAFE BECAUSE I WON'T BE

ENGAGING THE ACTUAL SAFETY LOCK ON THE RATCHET TO

HELP HOLD IT INTO PLACE. IF YOU ARE GONNA ADD DRING MOUNTS YOU NEED TO PAY ATTENTION TO THE ANGLE THAT THEY'RE AT. YOU WANT THE RATCHET STRAP AND EVERYTHING TO BE

RUNNING IN A GOOD STRAIGHT LINE WHEN EVERYTHING IS RATCHETED DOWN. YOU DON'T WANT ANY TIGHT CORNERS CAUSE THAT CAN CAUSE FAILURE TO THE WEBBING. IF ON YOUR TRAILER YOU DON'T HAVE DRING MOUNTS

YOU PROBABLY HAVE SOMETHING LIKE THIS. IT'S CALLED A STAKE POCKET ON THE OUTSIDE EDGE. I'VE JUST TACKED THIS ONE INTO PLACE. THIS IS A PRIME EXAMPLE OF WHEN YOU GET A BAD LOAD ON A RATCHET STRAP. IF YOU HOOK A RATCHET STRAP ONTO THE STAKE POCKET AND PULL LIKE THIS, YOU PUT TOO MUCH PRESSURE ON THE WEBBING AND IT STARTS TO TEAR JUST LIKE THIS ONE IS HERE. NOW YOU DON'T HAVE TO GO AHEAD AND WELD ON A DRING MOUNT, THERE IS ANOTHER SOLUTION. MAX MAKES THESE CHAIN EXTENSIONS FOR THE STAKE POCKETS. THEY SIMPLY DROP THROUGH THE POCKET, LOOP AROUND,

AND HOOK IN PLACE. AND NOW I ESSENTIALLY HAVE WHAT LOOKS LIKE A DRING MOUNT ON MY TRAILER. I CAN SIMPLY TAKE MY RATCHET STRAP, LOCK IT INTO PLACE, AND NO MATTER WHAT ANGLE I HAVE THE

RATCHET STRAP SET UP ON THE BUGGY I'LL HAVE A NICE STRAIGHT PULL, PERFECTLY SAFE. [ welder crackling ]

(IAN)>> THE DECK OF OUR CRAWLER HAULER IS COVERED IN 16 GAUGE TREAD PLATE. NOW THAT ALL BY ITSELF IS A TYPE OF NONSLIP SURFACE. THAT'S WHY YOU SEE IT USED A LOT ON OPEN CAR CARRYING TRAILERS AND ON THE BACK OF WEDGE BED TYPE TOW TRUCKS. BUT WE NEED TO COAT OURS TO PREVENT

IT FROM RUSTING. AND TO DO THAT I'M GOING TO USE DUPLICOLOR BED ARMOR. NOW THIS IS A POLYURETHANE WATER BASED COATING THAT IS INFUSED WITH KEVLAR. IT'S NORMALLY ROLLED INTO THE BACK OF YOUR PICK UP TRUCK BED TO PROTECT IT. ON THE CRAWLER HAULER IT'S GONNA GIVE US AN ADDITIONAL BENEFIT. AS YOU APPLY THIS PRODUCT YOU GET A TEXTURED SURFACE

ON TOP OF THE METAL. SO WE'LL HAVE OUR TREAD PLATE THAT'S ALREADY A NONSLIP SURFACE AND WE'LL HAVE OUR BED ARMOR THAT WILL SEAL AND PROTECT US AND GIVE US ONE MORE LEVEL OF TRACTION. SURFACE PREP IS KEY FOR THE PRODUCT TO ADHERE CORRECTLY. A QUICK TRIP OVER THE WELDS WITH AN ANGLE GRINDER AND A FOUR AND A HALF INCH FLAP WHEEL WILL HELP FLATTEN THEM OUT AND GIVE THE SURFACE SOME TOOTH.

A WIPE DOWN WITH SOME WAX AND GREASE REMOVER INSURES NO CONTAMINATION TO THE FINISHED PRODUCT.

BED ARMOR IS APPLIED WITH A TEXTURED ROLLER. AND AFTER A QUICK FIRST COAT TO INSURE PROPER COVERAGE, A SECOND COAT IS ADDED UNTIL THE DESIRED TEXTURE AND COVERAGE IS ACHIEVED. TIGHT SPOTS CAN BE TOUCHED UP WITH THE INCLUDED BRUSH.

I PULLED THE FRONT BUMPER OFF THE TRUCK NOT ONLY TO FINISH WELD IT, I ALSO NEED TO PAINT IT.

AND I'M GONNA MAKE IT MATCH THE BED OF OUR TRUCK. I'M GONNA USE BED ARMOR BUT I'M NOT GONNA USE THE ROLL ON BED ARMOR. I'M GONNA USE THE AEROSOL BED ARMOR, AND THAT WAY I'LL BE ABLE TO GET INTO ALL THE NOOKS AND CRANNIES AS WELL AS PAINT IT ON THE BACK SIDE TO PREVENT IT FROM RUSTING.

AND THAT'LL JUST HELP TIE THE TRUCK TOGETHER. THE FRONT BUMPER WILL BE BED ARMOR AND SO WILL THE BED.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT IT TAKES TIME AND TECHNIQUE BUT THE WEAVE WELD GIVES ANY RIG A TRULY

HIGH END FINISH. WE'LL SHOW YOU HOW TO DO IT. PLUS ALL IT TAKES TO CONQUER THE HILL IS ONE RAGING BULL AND 700 HORSES.

(ANNOUNCER)>> NOW SHOP TIPS FOR STRONGER, SAFER WELDS.

(IAN)>> WE SPENT SOME TIME THIS YEAR TALKING ABOUT TIG WELDING AND HOW IT WILL HELP YOU BECOME A MORE PROFICIENT FABRICATOR. YES, MIG WELDING IS GREAT AND IT'S DEFINITELY A GOOD SKILL TO MASTER, BUT WHEN YOU'RE READY TO STEP THINGS UP TO THE NEXT LEVEL, OBVIOUSLY TIG WELDING IS WHERE YOU'RE GONNA GO. NOW THERE'S LOTS OF BENEFITS TO A TIG WELDER, BUT PROBABLY THE BIGGEST ONE IS THE ABILITY TO PRODUCE VERY CLEAN MULTIPASS WELDS. MULTIPASS WELDS ARE NOT NEW AND NOT LIMITED TO TIG WELDING.

WHENEVER WELDING THICK MATERIAL TOGETHER MULTIPASS WELDS ARE COMMONLY USED. BUT WITH A MIG WELDER THE HEIGHT OF THE WELD INCREASES WITH EACH PASS OF THE BEAD. THIS CAN COME IN HANDY IF YOU'RE PERFORMING A BUTT

WELDED JOINT AND YOU PLAN TO FILL THE CHAMFER AND THEN METAL FINISH THE JOINT AWAY SO

YOU CAN'T SEE IT. BUT WITH A TIG WELDER YOU HAVE ANOTHER OPTION. IF YOU NEED TO DO A MULTIPASS WELD ON A "T" JOINT OR INSIDE CORNER JOINT, THERE IS ANOTHER WAY TO DO IT AND IT'S CALLED THE WEAVE.

LIKE ALL MULTIPASS WELDS, THIS JOINT WILL

START WITH A ROOT WELD. SO I NEED TO CREATE A CHAMFER ON THE TUBE FOR THE ROOT TO LAY IN. I'M USING A THREE THIRTYSECONDS TUNGSTEN IN MY FLEX HEAD TORCH WITH THE MACHINE SET AT 100 AMPS WITH NO PULSE, AND ARGON FLOWING AT 20 CUBIC FEET PER MINUTE WITH NO PURGE. I'M STRIKING THE ARC CREATING THE MOLTEN PUDDLE AND ADDING FILLER AS I WORK MY WAY AROUND THE

TUBE, FOCUSING ON GOOD PENETRATION FOR A STRONG JOINT. FOR THE COVERING PASS I'M GOING TO MOVE THE TUNGSTEN BACK SLIGHTLY IN THE CUP AND MAKE A DRY RUN TO INSURE THAT THE TUNGSTEN DOES NOT CONTACT THE BASE WELD WHEN THE CUP IS RESTING IN THE JOINT. THE WEAVE IS CREATED BY PERFORMING A PROCESS THAT IS KNOWN AS WALKING THE CUP AROUND THE JOINT. THE CUP IS RESTING AGAINST THE JOINT AND I'M MOVING IT UP AND DOWN, PAYING ATTENTION TO THE MOVEMENT OF THE MOLTEN PUDDLE AS I WELD. NOW THIS TYPE OF WELD JOINT IS MOST COMMONLY USED IN PIPELINE FABRICATION, USUALLY THE OIL AND GAS INDUSTRY WHERE THE JOINT NEEDS TO BE 100 PERCENT AIR OR WATER TIGHT. AND THEY'LL USUALLY XRAY THE WELD ONCE IT'S COMPLETE TO INSURE THERE'S NO POROSITY INSIDE THE WELD. YOU DON'T NORMALLY SEE IT IN THE WORLD OF OFF ROAD FABRICATION UNLESS YOU'RE DEALING WITH AN EXTREMELY HIGH END BUILD. SOMETHING LIKE A TROPHY TRUCK OR MAYBE A QUARTER MILLION DOLLAR ULTRA FOUR CAR, AND THAT IS ALL BECAUSE OF LABOR. AS YOU KNOW, JUST A SETUP FOR A TRADITIONAL TIG WELD TAKES A LOT LONGER. YOU NEED TO CLEAN THE BASE MATERIAL AND PREP IT MORE THAN YOU WOULD IF YOU WERE JUST USING A TRADITIONAL MIG. IF YOU'RE GONNA THROW A ROOT WELD AND THEN A WEAVE PASS OVER TOP, YOU'RE BASICALLY DOUBLING THE LABOR TIME JUST TO USE THE TIG. SO TO WELD UP A CHASSIS IS PROBABLY GONNA TAKE YOU FOUR TIMES LONGER THAN IF YOU WERE TO WELD ON THE SAME PIECE WITH A MIG GUN. BUT IN THE END IT IS A GOOD SKILL TO PRACTICE BECAUSE IT GIVES YOU GOOD TORCH CONTROL OVER THE MOLTEN PUDDLE AND IT JUST LOOKS COOL.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT RAGING BULL IN ACTION!

(IAN)>> WE'RE GONNA FINISH THINGS OFF TODAY WITH SOMETHING THAT I KNOW YOU GUYS HAVE BEEN WAITING FOR. I KNOW I AM PRETTY EXCITED ABOUT IT. PROJECT RAGING BULL IS LEAVING THE SHOP AND WE'RE GONNA HIT THE TRAILS.

BUT WHEN IT COMES TO A ROCK BOUNCER, IT IS VERY DIFFERENT THAN A TRADITIONAL TRAIL TRUCK. YOU DON'T JUST LOAD IT ON THE TRAILER AND HEAD OUT TO YOUR LOCAL OFF ROAD PARK WITH A COOLER FULL OF DRINKS AND SOME BUDDIES FOR SOME FUN. IT'S BASICALLY A FULL BLOWN RACE CAR. THERE'S SOME STUFF THAT HAS TO BE TAKEN CARE OF BEFORE YOU THROW IT ON ITS TIRES AND WHEELS AND HIT THE DIRT. IT ALL STARTS WITH SETTING UP OUR HOLLEY EFI. THE SOFTWARE WILL SYNC WITH THE ECU, AND IT

COMES WITH A BASE CALIBRATION THAT I NEED TO UPLOAD INTO OUR COMPUTER. OUR ENGINE IS BUILT TO USE FULL BLOWN RACE FUEL THAT'S AROUND 105 OCTANE. BUT THAT CAN BE HARD TO FIND IN SOME WHEELING SPOTS. SO TO GET TO OUR OCTANE LEVEL I'M GONNA USE AN ADDITIVE CALLED RACE GAS. IT'S A FUEL CONCENTRATE THAT WHEN MIXED WITH QUALITY 93 OCTANE GAS WILL RAISE THE OCTANE TO THE NEEDED 105.

THEN IT'S JUST A QUICK CHECK OF ALL THE FLUIDS AND WE'RE READY TO FIRE THIS MONSTER UP. WE ASKED PAT TOPOLINSKI FROM ENGINE POWER TO HELP OUT WITH OUR BIG BLOCK'S INITIAL FIRE UP. IT'S ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA TO HAVE A SECOND SET OF HANDS TO GET EVERYTHING DIALED IN JUST RIGHT. AND PRETTY SOON OUR MOTOR IS READY TO ROCK. [ engine idling and revving ]

(IAN)>> FOR OUR MAIDEN VOYAGE WE'RE HEADING OUT TO ADVENTURE OFF ROAD PARK IN SOUTH PITTSBURG, TENNESSEE. WITH 500 ACRES AND OVER 100 TRAILS, THERE'S SOMETHING FOR EVERY KIND OF FOUR WHEEL DRIVE RIG, FROM STREET LEGAL VEHICLES TO FULL FLEDGED CRAWLERS AND BOUNCERS.

(DAVID)>> IF YOU WANT TO DO A LITTLE ROCK CRAWLING,

YOU WANT TO DO A LITTLE EASY TRAIL RIDING, WE HAVE IT. AND WE ALSO HAVE A RACE TRACK THAT WE'VE INSTALLED, AND WE'LL START DOING SOME RACES ON THAT TOO FOR SIDE BY SIDES, AND THEN MAYBE

ANOTHER TYPE OF SERIES.

(IAN)>> OUR PLAN FOR THIS BOUNCER WAS TO BUILD AN

OVER THE TOP RIG, AND WE'VE DONE IT. TONS OF POWER, AMAZING AMOUNTS OF STYLE, AND A BOMB PROOF DRIVETRAIN, THIS RIG LOOKS GOOD.

IT'S TIME TO SEE HOW WELL IT PERFORMS. AND WHAT'S OUR IMPRESSION? WELL EVEN OUR LOW IMPACT SHAKEDOWN RUN ENDED UP PRETTY INTENSE. TO GET THE FULL POTENTIAL OUT OF THIS RIG WE INVITED JIMMY PENNER FROM ESSENTIALLY OFF ROAD ALONG.

HE'S GONNA WATCH OUR RIG AND SEE HOW THE BOUNCER HANDLES, AND THEN LEND A HAND TUNING ON THE SHOCKS.

THAT'S VIOLENT, NASTY AND VIOLENT! GOLLY, WELL HOW'D IT LOOK?

(JIMMY)>> IT LOOKED ALRIGHT BUT WE HAD A LITTLE BIT OF BOUNCE IN THE REAR END. I THINK WE NEED TO ADJUST THAT OUT JUST A TAD.

(IAN)>> IT'S GOT AN OPEN BREATHER. THAT'S WHERE THAT OIL'S COMING FROM. SO IT'S LIKE, WHEN I GOT SIDEWAYS LIKE THAT, ALL THAT SMOKE, THE BREATHER ON THAT SIDE IS OPEN.

SO WE MIGHT WANT TO JUST BAG IT, CAUSE WHEN IT DOES GET FLIPPED IT'S JUST POPPING OUT OIL LIKE NOTHING. BUT I MEAN, MAN IT'S NASTY DUDE!

(JIMMY)>> THE MOTOR'S NASTY!

(IAN)>> WITH A PLASTIC BAG WRAPPED AROUND OUR BREATHER AND SECURED WITH A ZIP TIE, JIMMY TACKLES THE REAR SHOCKS. HE ADJUSTS THE DCS VALVE ON THE EXTERNAL RESERVOIR TO STIFFEN UP THE REAR SUSPENSION.

(JIMMY)>> WHAT WE'RE DOING HERE IS TYPICALLY A SINGLE SHOCK LIKE THIS, TO MAKE ANY VALVING CHANGES WE'D HAVE TO PULL THE SHOCK OFF THE VEHICLE, DISASSEMBLE IT, AND ACTUALLY PHYSICALLY REPLACE THE VALVE STACKS IN HERE.

WITH FOXX'S DCS SHOCKS WE CAN COMPENSATE VALVING UP TO 25 PERCENT.

(IAN)>> AND WITH THOSE FIXES IN PLACE IT'S TIME TO HIT ANOTHER HILL. THERE IS NO QUESTION THAT OUR BOUNCER IS DEFINITELY ABLE TO TACKLE SOME SERIOUS TERRAIN. IT'S GOT THE SUSPENSION AND TIRES THAT IT NEEDS AND TONS OF POWER UNDERNEATH THE HOOD. SOMETIMES A LITTLE TOO MUCH POWER AND THE BUGGY CAN GET OUT OF HAND.

SO WITH A COUPLE OF SHAKEDOWN RUNS UNDER OUR BELT, IT'S TIME TO TURN THIS BOUNCER LOOSE.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, CHAOS AND CARNAGE ON THE TRAIL!

(IAN)>> WE ARE AT ADVENTURE OFF ROAD PARK GIVING OUR ROCK BOUNCER A THOROUGH SHAKEDOWN RUN AND TEST AND TUNE SESSION. WE HAVE ALREADY TUNED THE SUSPENSION AND HAVE BEEN RUNNING UP SOME HILLS TO SEE HOW IT FEELS.

BY ADJUSTING THE DUAL SPEED COMPRESSION VALVING, WE'VE BEEN ABLE TO IMPROVE HOW THE BUGGY REACTS. AND WITH THE THROTTLE RESPONSE OF THIS BIG BLOCK THIS RIG CERTAINLY EARNS THE NAME RAGING BULL.

EVERYTHING WAS FEELING GREAT AND ALL THE ENGINE'S VITALS WERE IN CHECK AND EASILY MONITORED THANKS TO THE HOLLEY EFI DIGITAL DASH. BUT THAT ALL CHANGED WHEN I TRIED TO BOUNCE UP A STEEP LEDGE. WE BUILT A RACE CAR FROM SCRATCH, LIKE A ROCK BOUNCER, THERE'S NO WAY IT'S GONNA HIT A TRAIL AND HAVE NO PROBLEMS. WE HIT A COUPLE OF TRAILS, NO BIG ISSUES, JUST A COUPLE OF THINGS, FIXED THEM. WE HIT THE HARD TRAIL. CALL IT DRIVER ERROR, PROBABLY. CALL 1,000 HORSEPOWER, COULD BE ANOTHER PROBLEM, BUT WE KINDA HAD A UJOINT FAILURE ON OUR REAR DRIVELINE HERE. AND THE DOWNFALL IS WHEN IT FAILED IT BLEW APART

THE YOKE ON THE REAR AXLE. SO RIGHT NOW IT'S BACK TO THE SHOP FOR SOME PARTS. LUCKILY I'VE GOT PEOPLE ON SPEED DIAL. IT'S ALWAYS GOOD TO HAVE YUKON GEAR AND AXLE IN

YOUR CONTACT LIST.

(KEVIN)>> THIS IS KEVIN.

(IAN)>> HEY KEVIN, IT'S IAN FROM XTREME.

(KEVIN)>> WHAT'S UP DUDE?

(IAN)>> NO MUCH, HEY I NEED A FAVOR. I NEED A 1410 14 BOLT YOKE.

(KEVIN)>> THAT'S NO PROBLEM, I WILL GET IT SET UP LOCAL.

(IAN)>> THANKS BUDDY, BYE! AND WITH THAT THIS TEST AND TUNE SESSION IS FINISHED. THE BUGGY IS BACK ON THE TRAILER AND WE'RE HEADING BACK TO THE SHOP. WHENEVER YOU HAVE A CATASTROPHIC FAILURE DURING A SHAKEDOWN RUN OF AN OFF ROAD RACE CAR LIKE

OUR BOUNCER YOU NEED TO ANALYZE IT. FIGURE OUT WHY IT HAPPENED, NOT JUST REPLACE THE PART. I KNEW WHEN WE WERE ON THE TRAIL THAT I BROKE THE UJOINT BUT I DIDN'T REALLY KNOW WHY. I THOUGHT MAYBE A ROCK HAD HIT THE DRIVESHAFT, BUT WHEN I GOT THE BUGGY BACK IN HERE INTO THE SHOP AND HAD A LOOK AT IT THAT'S NOT WHAT HAPPENED. IT'S PRETTY OBVIOUS I JUST OVERPOWERED THE UJOINT. NOW THAT IS BECAUSE THIS UJOINT HAS A WEAK LINK IN IT. THIS 1410 IS A SERVICEABLE JOINT. IT HAS A GREASE FITTING THAT SCREWS INTO ONE END. THAT ALLOWS YOU TO GET GREASE DOWN TO ALL THE TRUNNIONS TO LUBRICATE THE NEEDLE BEARINGS. WHEN YOU PUT AS MUCH POWER THROUGH THAT JOINT THAT WE DID, IT BASICALLY SPLIT THAT JOINT RIGHT DOWN THAT

GREASE FITTING, CAUSING IT TO FAIL.

NOW I'M SURE SOME OF YOU ARE THINKING, NO BIG DEAL,

JUST CARRY SOME EXTRA UJOINTS, BUT IT'S THE COLLATERAL DAMAGE THAT HAPPENS WHEN THIS FAILS. WE ACTUALLY DAMAGED OUR PINION YOKE, SO IT'S NO LONGER USEABLE. WE DAMAGED THE PINION GUARD AND THE DRIVESHAFT. IF I JUST REPLACED THIS JOINT WITH ANOTHER PIECE THERE'S A GOOD CHANCE THAT WE'RE GONNA BREAK IT AGAIN AND WRECK MORE PARTS. WE HAVE TO UPGRADE IT. NOW YUKON GEAR AND AXLE ACTUALLY HAS AN UPGRADED 1410 JOINT.

THEY CALL IT A LIFETIME JOINT. NOW THAT'S BECAUSE THERE'S NO GREASE FITTING INTO IT. THE CROSS IS SOLID STEEL. IT MAKES IT INCREDIBLY STRONG, NO WEAK LINK IN THIS JOINT. NOW SERVICING IT AFTER A RACE MAY BE A LITTLE BIT MORE WORK. YOU HAVE TO DISASSEMBLE THE DRIVESHAFT, PULL THE CAPS OFF, PUT A LITTLE BIT OF GREASE IN IT IF IT EVER STARTS TO MAKE NOISE. BUT THAT LITTLE INCONVENIENCE IS WELL WORTH THE EXTRA STRENGTH. ALSO ON A RACE CAR YOU DON'T JUST UPGRADE THE FAILED ITEM. FOR OUR BUGGY WE'RE GONNA UPGRADE ALL THE UJOINTS, AND BOTH OF OUR DRIVELINES WITH THE NEW YUKON PIECES.

WITH OUR UJOINTS UPGRADED WE'VE NOW ELIMINATED THAT WEAK LINK FROM OUR DRIVETRAIN, AND THAT BRINGS UP ANOTHER SUBJECT. WHEN YOU HAVE A CATASTROPHIC FAILURE LIKE THAT IN A RACE CAR THERE IS ONE MORE STEP BEFORE YOU TAKE IT BACK OUT ON THE TRAIL, AND THAT IS TO DO WHAT'S CALLED RACE PREPPING THE CAR. HONESTLY RIGHT NOW BECAUSE WE'VE SHOCK LOADED THE DRIVETRAIN, I NEED TO CHECK ALL THE HEIM JOINTS, ALL THE SHOCK MOUNTS, CHECK THE AIR IN MY TIRES, CHECK THE FLUID IN EVERYTHING BEFORE WE TAKE THIS RIG OUT ONE MORE TIME, WHICH WE'RE GONNA DO.

I JUST HAVE SOME WORK TO DO FIRST.