Rock Bouncer: Rock Race Axles

(ANNOUNCER)>> OUR HILL KILLING ROCK BOUNCER SITS ON A PAIR OF 14 BOLT AXLES BUT IT'S WHAT'S INSIDE THAT COUNTS. WE DROP IN HEAVY DUTY GEARS, KNUCKLES, AND MORE. PLUS A TRANSMISSION MASTER BUILDS OUR BOMB PROOF TURBO 400. AND MIG WELDING WITH ALUMINUM.

(IAN)>> TODAY IT'S ROCK BOUNCER DAY IN THE XTREME OFF ROAD SHOP. TODAY WE'RE GONNA START ASSEMBLING SOME OF THE KEY ITEMS THAT ARE GONNA MAKE OUR RIG A FULL ON HILL KILLING ROCK BOUNCING BUGGY. NOW THIS WHOLE IDEA STARTED WHEN WE HAD A PLAN TO BASICALLY COMBINE A HIGH END ITALIAN SPORTS CAR WITH A HARDCORE OFF ROAD RIG. SO A PILE OF TUBING WAS CUT, BENT, ROLLED, AND NOTCHED, AND WELDED TOGETHER ON OUR FRAME TABLE TO CREATE OUR FIRST FULL BLOWN ROCK BOUNCER WE'RE CALLING RAGING BULL. AND RIGHT HERE IS THE SPACE IN THE SHOP THAT I'VE CLEANED UP IN PREPARATION FOR US TO START ASSEMBLING OUR BUGGY.

BUT THAT'S NOT WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO TODAY. THE CHASSIS IS STILL UP AT STREETWERKS CUSTOM COATING, WHERE THEY ARE JUST PUTTING THE FINAL TOUCHES ON A TRUE LAMBORGHINI DIABLO RED POWDER COAT ON BOTH THE CHASSIS AND THE WHEELS. BUT THAT DOESN'T MEAN WE CAN'T WORK ON THIS PROJECT. WHEN WE BUILT OUR CHASSIS WE SLUNG TWO 14 BOLT AXLES UNDERNEATH IT. BUT THEY WERE BASICALLY EMPTY HOUSINGS JUST USED TO MOCK UP OUR SUSPENSION. THAT'S WHAT WE'RE GONNA TAKE CARE OF TODAY. WE'RE GONNA BUILD SOME TRUE BOMB PROOF BOUNCER SPECIFIC AXLES. THE FIRST STEP IN OUR AXLE BUILD WILL BE TO FINISH UP

ALL THE FAB WORK ON OUR AXLE HOUSINGS. BEFORE REMOVING, I'LL MARK EACH AXLE TUBE TO MAKE SURE THE SUSPENSION MOUNTS STAY INDEXED CORRECTLY. WITH THE TUBES REMOVED FROM THE CENTER SECTION,

THE INSIDE OF THE SECTION IS CLEANED OUT AND THE PAINT IS GROUND OFF THE AREAS WHERE WE'RE GONNA WELD. AND THE TUBES ARE SLID BACK IN AND AN ALIGNMENT BAR IS INSTALLED TO KEEP EVERYTHING GOOD AND STRAIGHT. THEN THE AXLE TUBES ARE WELDED INTO THE CENTER BY FILLING IN BOTH THE PLUG WELDS AND WELDING AROUND THE OUTSIDE EDGE. THE RTECH INDUSTRIES' PINION GUARD IS THEN PUT INTO PLACE TO HELP LOCATE THE CENTER TRUSS ASSEMBLY.

NEXT A REAR SKID PLATE SYSTEM IS MOCKED UP AND TRIMMED TO FIT. ONCE IN PLACE, A HEAVY DUTY DIFF COVER IS DROPPED ONTO THE AXLE. ALL OF THE FAB WORK THAT WE'VE DONE TO THAT AXLE HAS TWO JOBS. FIRST, IT'S THERE TO PROTECT ALL THE AXLE INTERNALS FROM DAMAGE WHEN THE AXLE CONTACTS ROCKS ON THE TRAIL LIKE THIS. BUT IT'S ALSO THERE TO PREVENT THE AXLE FROM BENDING WHEN A VEHICLE BECOMES AIRBORNE, WHICH ROCK BOUNCERS OCCASIONALLY DO. WITH THE HOUSING TAKEN CARE OF, WE CAN NOW FOCUS ON WHAT'S GOING TO GO INSIDE IT. ROCK BOUNCERS USE A LOT OF SPECIFIC PARTS AND PIECES TO HELP ELIMINATE ANY WEAK LINKS IN THE AXLE. IT STARTS WITH THE GEAR SET. NOW THIS RING AND PINION IS FROM YUKON GEAR AND AXLE, AND IT'S A 4.11 TO ONE RATIO RING AND PINION. FROM THE FACTORY THE PINION IN THE 14 BOLT IS INCREDIBLY STRONG THANKS TO THE NOSE BEARING THAT'S CAST INTO THE DIFFERENTIAL CENTER SECTION. IT HELPS PREVENT RING GEAR DEFLECTION, BUT THE RATIO ALSO MAKES IT STRONG. THE 4.11 HAS A LARGE AMOUNT OF RING GEAR TO PINION TOOTH CONTACT AREA. IT'LL JUST HELP PREVENT ANY RING GEAR FAILURE. THE YOKE IS OVERSIZED. THIS IS A 1410 UJOINT YOKE THAT WILL ATTACH TO OUR PINION. AND THAT'S AN INCREDIBLY LARGE UJOINT DESIGNED TO HANDLE A LOT OF ABUSE. IF THE 14 BOLT AXLE HAS ONE PROBLEM AREA, IT'S THE

FACT THAT FROM THE FACTORY IT USES A CRUSH SLEEVE TO SET PINION BEARING PRELOAD. THE PROBLEM WITH THE CRUSH SLEEVE IS UNDER HEAVY ABUSE APPLICATIONS WITH LARGE TIRES AND LOW RATIO TRANSFER CASES, THE CRUSH SLEEVE CAN ACTUALLY CONTINUE TO CRUSH, AND THAT CAN CAUSE PINION BEARING FAILURE. TO KEEP THAT FROM HAPPENING YUKON GEAR AND AXLE HAS A SOLID SPACER KIT THE REPLACES THE CRUSH SLEEVE WITH A SMALL SPACER AND SHIMS. SO ONCE WE SET OUR PINION BEARING PRELOAD, WE DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT IT EVER CHANGING, NO MATTER

HOW MUCH POWER AND TORQUE WE THROW THROUGH THAT AXLE. NOW ALL ROCK BOUNCERS NEED SOME TYPE OF TRACTION

DEVICE, AND THE MOST COMMON THAT YOU'RE GONNA SEE IS A SPOOL. THIS DELIVERS 100 PERCENT OF THE ENGINE'S POWER AND TORQUE TO BOTH TIRES EQUALLY. IT BASICALLY LOCKS THEM TOGETHER 100 PERCENT OF THE TIME. THIS SPOOL IS FROM PENN AXLE, AND IT'S AN UPGRADED SPOOL FOR THE 14 BOLT, BECAUSE INSTEAD OF THE STOCK 30 SPLINE AXLE THAT WILL SLIDE INTO IT, THIS ONE'S DESIGNED TO ACCEPT 40 SPLINE SHAFTS. THE FIRST STEP TO BUILDING THE AXLE IS TO PRESS THE

BEARING ONTO OUR NEW PINION. WITH THE FACTORY PINION SUPPORT STRIPPED DOWN, IT'S CLEANED IN THE PARTS WASHER. ONCE THE NEW BEARING RACES ARE INSTALLED, THE NEW PINION IS PUT IN PLACE ALONG WITH THE SOLID SPACER KIT.

AFTER TIGHTENING THE PINION NUT, THE ROTATIONAL LOAD IS CHECKED AND IT'S ADJUSTED BY CHANGING THE NUMBER OF SHIMS ON THE SPACER UNTIL THE CORRECT AMOUNT OF PRELOAD IS REACHED.

AND IT'S FINISHED OFF WITH THE PINION SEAL. A NEW NOSE BEARING IS INSTALLED INTO THE HOUSING, AND 30 THOUSANDTHS WORTH OF PINION SHIMS ARE PUT IN PLACE, FOLLOWED BY THE PINION SUPPORT. THE NEW RING GEAR IS INSTALLED ONTO THE SPOOL WITH NEW GRADE EIGHT BOLTS WITH RED LOCTITE ON THE THREADS. THEN IT IS DROPPED INTO THE HOUSING. SIDE BEARING ADJUSTORS ARE ROTATED UNTIL THE PROPER BACKLASH IS REACHED.

AND THE REAR COVER FINISHES UP THE AXLE.

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP, MAKING THE MEASUREMENTS FOR A PERFECT KNUCKLE INSTALLATION.

(IAN)>> TODAY WE'RE FOCUSING ON THE DRIVETRAIN FOR OUR ROCK BOUNCER PROJECT WHILE THE CHASSIS IS UP GETTING POWDER COATED. I'VE ALREADY FINISHED UP THE REAR AXLE. SO NOW WE CAN TURN OUR ATTENTION TO THE FRONT AXLE. NOW IT HAS A MATCHING 14 BOLT CENTER SECTION UP FRONT, AND I'VE ALREADY GONE AHEAD AND INSTALLED OUR 40 SPLINE PENN AXLE SPOOL AND OUR YUKON GEAR AND AXLE 4.11 TO ONE GEAR SET. NOW THAT IS WHERE THE SIMILARITIES BETWEEN THE REAR AND THE FRONT ARE GOING TO END BECAUSE THE 14 BOLT WAS NEVER OFFERED FROM THE FACTORY AS A STEERING AXLE. SO THE FIRST STEP IN BUILDING ONE IS TO SEAL

THE DIFFERENTIAL CENTER SECTION. NOW I DID THAT BY INSTALLING A COUPLE OF THESE CUSTOM AXLE SEALS THAT CAME WITH OUR SPOOL. THEY'RE DESIGNED TO FIT INSIDE THE AXLE TUBE, AND SEAL IT ONCE THE SHAFTS ARE SLID IN. AND THAT'LL PREVENT FLUID FROM ROLLING DOWN THE AXLE TUBE AND POURING OUT THE OPEN END OF THE KNUCKLE WHEN THE VEHICLE IS OFF CAMBER. NOW WE HAVE TO INSTALL SOME TYPE OF KNUCKLE ASSEMBLY TO TURN THIS AXLE INTO A STEERING AXLE. AND THAT IS WHERE THIS BOUNCER IS GONNA BE DIFFERENT. THESE FULLY FABRICATED KNUCKLE ASSEMBLIES ARE ALSO FROM PENN AXLE, AND THEY'RE FOCUSING HEAVILY ON THE ROCK BOUNCER MARKET. NOW WHEN YOU'RE BUILDING PARTS FOR A COMPETITIVE MOTOR SPORT LIKE ROCK RACING. YOU NOT ONLY HAVE TO THINK ABOUT STRENGTH. YOU ALSO HAVE TO THINK ABOUT SERVICEABILITY. AND THAT'S WHAT MAKES THESE KNUCKLES DIFFERENT. IF WE EVER HAVE TO TEAR INTO THE INSIDE OF OUR AXLE, TO SEPARATE THE KNUCKLES WE ONLY HAVE TO PULL OUT ONE BOLT FROM THE BOTTOM AND ONE

BOLT FROM THE TOP. GRAB THE TIRE AND WHEEL, AND WE CAN SLIDE OUT THE ENTIRE OUTER STUB AND INNER AXLE AS ONE UNIT. THAT'LL JUST SAVE US A LOT OF TIME IN THE PITS.

NOW OBVIOUSLY THEY'RE FULLY FABRICATED, GOOD AND STRONG, OVERSIZED, AND THEY USE A VERY SPECIFIC OUTER SPINDLE. THIS IS A ROCKWELL OUTER SPINDLE THAT WILL BOLT RIGHT ONTO THE STEERING KNUCKLE. NOW THAT ALLOWS US TO RUN A PRETTY UNIQUE OUTER STUB SHAFT. THIS IS A DANA 60 OUTER STUB SHAFT. 35 SPLINED, CHROMOLY, GOOD AND STRONG. THIS IS WHAT WE'RE GONNA RUN IN OUR ROCK BOUNCER. IT IS AN RCV PERFORMANCE ROCKWELL SPECIFIC OUTER CV BELL. NOW IT'S A FULLY BELLED C/V, WHICH MEANS IT HAS SIX BALLS INSIDE THE C/V JOINT TO DISTRIBUTE THE LOAD MORE EVENLY WHEN THE AXLE IS TURNED. IT'S ALSO HUGE. IT'S A FULL TWO INCH SHAFT WITH A 47 SPLINE OUTER ENGAGEMENT HUB THAT'LL LOCK INTO OUR DRIVE FLANGES. IF YOU CAN BREAK THIS OUTER STUB, EVEN WHILE DOING SOMETHING AS CRAZY AS COMPETITIVE ROCK BOUNCER, WELL YOU MUST BE DOING SOMETHING PRETTY WILD. FOR OUR LAMBORGHINI, I THINK IT'S GONNA BE GOOD AND STRONG. OH, THEY'RE HEAVY TOO! THE SHOCK MOUNTS WILL HAVE TO BE TRIMMED TO FIT OUR NEW KNUCKLES. ON THE FRONT AXLE THERE'S A LOT OF ANGLES TO DEAL WITH. YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE THE TRUSS IS LEVEL AND THE PINION IS TRAVELING UP ABOUT 10 DEGREES. WE'LL CHECK OUR CASTOR ANGLE AND MAKE SURE THAT THE KNUCKLE IS SITTING PERFECTLY SQUARE TO THE AXLE. THEN WE'LL INSTALL AN ALIGNMENT BAR, TACK IT ALL TOGETHER. I'M JUST TACKING THE KNUCKLES IN FOR NOW WITH OUR ALIGNMENT BAR TO MAKE SURE THAT THE CASTOR IS CORRECT ON BOTH SIDES. BEFORE I FINISH WELD THEM, THERE'S A LITTLE BIT OF FABRICATION I NEED TO DO. YOU SEE THERE'S NO PROVISION ON THE KNUCKLE FOR ANY TYPE OF STEERING ARM. WE'VE ALREADY GOT OUR FULL HYDRAULIC RAM MOUNTED UP ON OUR FRONT SKID PLATE, BUT THERE'S NO WAY TO BOLT A HIGH STEER ARM ONTO THE TOP OF THIS FULLY FABRICATED KNUCKLE, AND THAT'S BECAUSE THE GUYS AT PENN AXLE FULLY EXPECT THAT IF YOU'VE GOT THE SKILLS TO PUT THE AXLE TOGETHER THIS FAR, SURELY YOU CAN GO AHEAD AND BUILD YOUR OWN HIGH STEER ARM BRACKET OUT OF SOME SHEET METAL. THE STEERING ARM WILL BE MADE OUT OF SOME THREESIXTEENTHS PLATE. WE'LL START WITH A TEMPLATE OFF THE TOP OF THE KNUCKLE. CUT IT OUT, AND DRILL A THREE QUARTER INCH HOLE FOR OUR HEIM JOINT. WE'LL ADD A LOWER MOUNT, AND FINALLY GUSSETS FOR STRENGTH.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, THE INS AND OUTS OF ALUMINUM MIG WELDING.

(ANNOUNCER)>> NOW SHOP TIPS FOR STRONGER, SAFER WELDS.

(IAN)>> WE HAVE COVERED A LOT OF GROUND THIS YEAR WITH OUR MIG WELDING SEGMENTS. HOPEFULLY YOU GUYS HAVE SPENT SOME TIME AT HOME

WITH SOME DIFFERENT THICKNESSES AND TYPES OF COUPONS PRACTICING YOUR WELDING JOINTS AND FINE TUNING YOUR TORCH WELDING POSITION. TODAY WE'RE GONNA TALK ABOUT THE MOST ADVANCED TYPE OF MIG WELDING YOU'LL EVER HAVE TO DO WHEN

BUILDING AN OFF ROAD VEHICLE, AND THAT IS ALUMINUM MIG WELDING. YOU DO NEED A PIECE OF SPECIALIZED EQUIPMENT TO DO THE JOB, AND IT'S CALLED A MIG WELDING SPOOL GUN. FROM THE TRIGGER FORWARD IT'S VERY SIMILAR IN DESIGN TO A STANDARD MIG WELDING GUN, BUT FROM HERE BACK IT IS COMPLETELY DIFFERENT. THERE'S A HOUSING THAT'LL HOLD THE WELDING WIRE, AND THREE CONNECTIONS THAT NEED TO BE MADE AT THE WELDER, POWER CABLE, A HOSE FOR THE SHIELDING GAS, AND A CONTROL WIRE THAT DRIVES THE DRIVE ROLLS THAT ARE ACTUALLY INSIDE THE SPOOL GUN. THE WIRE THAT WE USE COMES ON THESE SMALL SINGLE POUND SPOOLS OF ALUMINUM WIRE. AND THE REASON THAT WE MOUNT IT RIGHT UP AT THE GUN IS BECAUSE ALUMINUM WIRE IS VERY SOFT. IF YOU TRY TO PUSH IT ALL THE WAY DOWN THE TORCH LINER FROM INSIDE THE MACHINE IT ACTUALLY GALLS UP INSIDE THE LINER AND JAMBS. NOW THERE ARE THREE CONNECTIONS THAT YOU NEED TO MAKE AT THE MIG WELDER BEFORE YOU START WELDING. THE MAIN POWER FEED INSIDE THE MACHINE IS SWAPPED OVER TO BE HOOKED UP TO THE SPOOL GUN. THE CONTROL CABLE ALSO ATTACHES INSIDE THE WELDER, AND THE SHIELDING GAS FEED IS SCREWED INTO THE OUTPUT ON THE FRONT. THE SHIELDING GAS HAS TO BE CHANGED TO PURE ARGON FOR ALUMINUM WELDING, AND THE HOSE FROM THE REGULATOR ATTACHES TO A DIFFERENT PORT ON THE BACK OF THE WELDER. THE SPOOL OF WIRE IS MOUNTED INSIDE THE SPOOL

GUN AND FED THROUGH THE DRIVE ROLLS AND OUT TO THE TIP. ALUMINUM WELDING IS A LOT BRIGHTER THAN WELDING STEEL. SO IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO ADJUST THE SHADE OF YOUR WELDING HELMET TO A DARKER SETTING. JOINT PREP IS VERY IMPORTANT FOR ALUMINUM MIG WELDING.

THE MATERIAL MUST BE CLEAN AND DIRT FREE TO PREVENT CONTAMINATION. TORCH POSITION IS THE SAME BUT YOUR TRAVEL SPEED MUST INCREASE BECAUSE THE HEAT IS ABSORBED INTO THE ALUMINUM A LOT FASTER. WE'VE SAID ALL ALONG THAT PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT WHEN DOING YOUR MIG WELDS, BUT THAT CAN BECOME INCREDIBLY EXPENSIVE IF YOU PRACTICE A WHOLE LOT OF ALUMINUM WELDING. IT'S BETTER JUST TO UNDERSTAND THAT EVERYTHING THAT APPLIES TO STEEL WELDING WILL ALSO APPLY TO ALUMINUM. AND GO AHEAD WHEN YOU FIRST GET YOUR SPOOL GUN, CUT YOURSELF OUT A COUPLE OF COUPONS, AND JUST LAY

DOWN A FEW BEADS TO GET A FEEL FOR THE SPOOL GUN IN YOUR HAND. NOW THERE ARE DIFFERENT ALLOYS OF WIRE WHEN IT COMES TO ALUMINUM MIG WELDING, BUT THE MOST POPULAR IS AN ER 4043. AND THAT'LL BE ABLE TO WELD MOST OF THE POPULAR

TYPES OF ALUMINUM YOU'D BRING INTO YOUR SHOP. NOW IT IS A SIGNIFICANT INVESTMENT TO STEP UP AND PERFORM ALUMINUM WELDING. YOU'VE GOT THE SPOOL GUN, AN EXTRA TANK OF GAS, AND

A NEW REGULATOR, BUT BEING ABLE TO WELD ALUMINUM FOR YOUR PROJECTS WILL REALLY STEP UP YOUR OFF ROAD FABRICATION.

(ANNOUNCER)>> IF THIS GUY BUILDS TRANSMISSIONS FOR KING OF THE HAMMERS CHAMPIONS, I THINK WE CAN TRUST HIM WITH OUR ROCK BOUNCER.

(IAN)>> THE DRIVETRAIN FOR OUR ROCK BOUNCER'S JUST ABOUT FINISHED UP, AND THE NEXT ITEM WE NEED TO TAKE CARE OF IS THE TRANSMISSION.

NOW I MADE A FEW PHONE CALLS, AND THE GO TO PLACE FOR A HARDCORE OFF ROAD AUTOMATIC IS MAXIMUM TRANSMISSIONS.

BUT INSTEAD OF JUST HAVING THEM THROW ONE IN A BOX, SPRINKLE IT WITH PIXY DUST, AND TELL US THAT IT'S GOING TO BE STRONG ENOUGH, I HAD THEM COME HERE TO THE XOR SHOP AND SHOW US AND YOU WHAT MAKES HIS AUTOMATICS SO TOUGH.

(CHRIS)>> AT MAXIMUM TRANSMISSIONS WE SPECIALIZE IN THE WEAK LINKS OF THE TRANSMISSION. YOU KNOW, WHATEVER YOU'RE DOING IN YOUR VEHICLE, ROCKS, WHOOPS, ULTRA FOUR CAR, ROCK BOUNCER, TROPHY TRUCK, WE CAN BUILD YOU A TRANSMISSION FOR IT.

(IAN)>> AND WHO RUNS MAXIMUM OFF ROAD TRANSMISSIONS? SOME OF THE KINGS OF ULTRA FOUR RACING.

(CHRIS)>> JASON SHEAR WOULD BE A TURBO 400. RANDY SLAUSON FOURL-80-E.

(IAN)>> CHRIS BROUGHT A PILE OF CUSTOM PARTS SPECIFICALLY FOR OUR TURBO 400. CHRIS, THANKS FOR COMING IN.

(CHRIS)>> THANKS FOR HAVING ME.

(IAN)>> NOW YOU GUYS SPECIALIZE IN THROW DOWN HARDCORE OFF ROAD SPECIFIC TRANSMISSIONS. AND I CALLED YOU AND TOLD YOU I KNEW WE WERE DOING A 400, BUT THIS IS A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT ANIMAL THAN A STANDARD JUNKYARD REBUILD, RIGHT?

(CHRIS)>> CORRECT, WHAT YOU HAVE AS FAR AS HORSEPOWER APPLICATION, YOU'RE REALLY GONNA NEED TO ADDRESS THE INTERNAL COMPONENTS OF THE TURBO 400 TO MAKE THAT SO IT COULD SURVIVE BEHIND THE APPLICATION YOU'RE BUILDING.

(IAN)>> WE KNOW THAT THE 400'S STRONG, WE USE THEM ALL THE TIME, BUT THERE'S SOME INHERENT WEAK LINKS IN THERE RIGHT, AND YOU GUYS HAVE WORKED TO ELIMINATE THEM.

(CHRIS)>> CORRECT, WHICH IS GONNA BE YOUR INPUT SHAFT, INTERMEDIATE SHAFT, AND FORWARD CLUTCH HUB. WE'RE GONNA UPDATE THE DRIVETRAIN TO A FOURL-80-E STRAIGHT CUT PLANETARY DRIVETRAIN, AND THEN WE'RE GONNA ADD THE REED RACING TURBO 400 CASE.

(IAN)>> HE STARTS BY ASSEMBLING THE DRIVETRAIN OF THE TRANSMISSION, WITH THE NEWER FOURL-80

STRAIGHT CUT PLANETARY GEAR SET AND A SOLID 300-M INTERMEDIATE SHAFT. THE MAXIMUM TRANSMISSION SHAFT HAS NO EDGE BREAKS OR LUBE HOLES TO ELIMINATE THAT WEAK LINK.

AFTER INSTALLING THE CENTER SUPPORT, RAYBESTOS RACING BLUE FRICTIONS ARE DROPPED IN ALONG WITH COLEEN STEELS.

CLUTCH PACKS ARE ASSEMBLED INCLUDING A NEW INPUT SHAFT AND DRUM ASSEMBLY.

SIMILAR TO THE REAR SHAFT, IT HAS NO LUBE HOLES OR EDGE BREAKS AND IS MADE FROM THE SAME 300-M MATERIALS. EVERYTHING IS FINISHED UP WITH AN UPGRADED PUMP.

WITH THE TRANS BACK ON THE BENCH, A SINGLE CHECK BALL IS DROPPED INTO PLACE, TURBO 400 BAND TO PLY PISTON, AND A FOURL-80-E WIDE BAND APPLIED PISTON ARE INSTALLED. SPACER PLATE AND REVERSE PATTERN MANUAL SHIFT VALVE

BODY ARE NEXT, FOLLOWED BY THE FILTER AND A FACTORY STEEL PAN. GOVERNOR COVER, AND THE EXTERNAL LUBRICATION TUBE TO FEED THE REAR PLANETS, AND THIS TRANSMISSION IS DONE. BUT BEFORE CHRIS LEAVES I JUST HAVE ONE MORE QUESTION.

HOW OFTEN DO YOU GET TRANSMISSION FLUID ON THE BEARD?

(CHRIS)>> AH, DAILY!

(IAN)>> AND HOW HARD IS IT TO CLEAN OUT?

(CHRIS)>> I LET MY WIFE DO THAT.