Lock Jaw: Final Prep

(ANNOUNCER)>> NO DOUBT ABOUT IT. PUTTING A MODERN STRONG HEMI INTO OUR KAISER JEEP WAS THE RIGHT THING TO DO, BUT WITHOUT THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS ALL THAT POWER CAN TEAR UP THE DRIVETRAIN AND LEAF SPRINGS. TODAY ON XTREME OFF ROAD, WE DESIGN AN ANTIWRAP BAR TO PUT THE TORQUE TO THE TIRES WHERE IT BELONGS. PLUS CUSTOM EXHAUST AND A BED FULL OF UPGRADES, AND CHOOSING THE BEST FILLER MATERIAL FOR YOUR TIG WELDING PROJECT.

(IAN)>> WE HAVE MADE REALLY GOOD PROGRESS ON PROJECT LOCK JAW. WHAT STARTED AS LITERALLY A TRUCK THAT WAS THROWN

AWAY IN THE TRASH HAS BEEN REBORN INTO A HARDCORE OFF ROAD CAB TRUCK. NOW THE CHASSIS IS ALMOST 100 PERCENT DONE, AND THE BODY IS PRETTY MUCH READY TO BE DROPPED BACK ON BECAUSE I'M GONNA BE LEAVING IT THIS NICE, OLD PATINA LOOK ON THE OUTSIDE. BUT THERE'S JUST A COUPLE OF THINGS THAT'LL BE EASIER TO TAKE CARE OF WITH THE BODY STILL OFF IT AND THAT IS WHERE WE START TODAY.

FIRST ORDER OF BUSINESS WILL BE A

COMPLETE CUSTOM EXHAUST. OURS WILL BE BUILT USING A GIBSON SUPER FLOW STAINLESS STEEL MUFFLER. THE BAFFLED AND CHAMBERED DESIGN ALLOWS FOR MAXIMUM EFFICIENCY. AND THE OFFSET, INLET AND OUTLET, MAKE FOR EXCELLENT GROUND CLEARANCE AND EASY INSTALLATION. UNIVERSAL STAINLESS STEEL COLLECTORS AND 45 DEGREE TWO AND A HALF INCH PIPE ARE CUT TO FIT WITH

THE GIBSON HEADERS. ONCE ALIGNED THE TUBING IS CUT AND TACKED TOGETHER WITH THE TIG WELDER. IT GOES BACK INTO THE CHASSIS, AND TO MAKE IT REMOVABLE VBAND CLAMPS ARE ADDED TO THE SYSTEM. ON A FOUR WHEEL DRIVE RIG THE EXHAUST IS ALWAYS TRICKY WHEN YOU'RE DEALING WITH THE SIDE THAT THE TRANSFER CASE OUTPUT IS ON. SEE YOU'VE GOT TO REMEMBER, THERE'S GONNA BE A DRIVESHAFT COMING FROM THE TRANSFER CASE ALL THE

WAY DOWN THROUGH HERE TO THE FRONT AXLE. I CAN'T SIMPLY ADD ANOTHER DOWN PIPE HERE AND A MUFFLER. IT'LL GET IN THE WAY. NOW THERE'S A COUPLE OF WAYS TO DEAL WITH IT. I HAVE TO GET THE EXHAUST TO THE OTHER

SIDE OF THE FRAME. I COULD ALMOST PULL A 180, FLIP THE EXHAUST ALL THE WAY AROUND TO THE FRONT SIDE OF THE OIL PAN AND

CARRY IT OVER, BUT BECAUSE I'M DEALING WITH A LEAF SPRUNG RIG THERE I DON'T HAVE SO MUCH UP TRAVEL. I ONLY HAVE TO LIMIT IT ABOUT FOUR INCHES. SO I HAVE ROOM TO SIMPLY BRING THE EXHAUST DOWN,

PUT IT UNDERNEATH THE TRANSMISSION ON THIS SIDE. I'LL HAVE PLENTY OF CLEARANCE FOR THE DRIVESHAFT AND I'LL HOOK IT UP INTO A TWO INTO ONE SYSTEM.

A CROSSOVER PIPE IS INSTALLED ONTO THE HEADER THE SAME AS THE PASSENGER SIDE. ONCE THE CLOCKING IS MARKED WITH A SHARPIE, THE EXHAUST IS REMOVED AND TACKED TOGETHER.

THE EXHAUST IS SET BACK INTO PLACE. AND ONCE LOCATED UNDERNEATH THE TRANSMISSION, A PIECE OF PIPE IS GROUND TO SADDLE OVER THE PASSENGER SIDE PIPE AT A 45 DEGREE ANGLE. IT'S TACKED INTO PLACE, REMOVED FROM

UNDER THE CHASSIS. THE LOCATION OF THE PIPE IS MARKED AND THEN CUT.

FINALLY IT'S FULLY WELDED AND THE EXHAUST GOES BACK INTO THE CHASSIS. AN EXHAUST TIP AND MUFFLER HANGERS FINISH UP THE INSTALLATION. WITH THE BODY STILL OFF THE FRAME THIS IS THE PERFECT TIME TO TAKE CARE OF SOME ODDS AND ENDS. I CAN GO AHEAD AND MOUNT ALL THE FUEL LINES AS WELL AS THE NEW FUEL PUMP ONTO OUR FRAME RAIL. I'M USING THIS HOLLEY EFI BILLET PUMP TO FEED OUR VEIGHT. I CAN ALSO RUN THE LINE FOR OUR AIR LOCKERS AND EVEN INSTALL THE ELECTRICAL CABLE FOR OUR REAR MOUNTED BATTERY.

THE REASON IT'S EASIER WITH THE BODY OFF IS CAUSE IT'S JUST EASIER TO MOUNT STUFF TO THE FRAME. KEEP IT SECURE. YOU DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT IT COMING LOOSE AND POSSIBLY TOUCHING EITHER A ROTATING PART OR THAT NEW EXHAUST AND HAVING A FAILURE WHEN WE'RE ON THE TRAIL. ON ANY OFF ROAD RIG IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO EXTEND THE DIFFERENTIAL VENT TUBES. THIS IS ALSO A GOOD TIME TO INSTALL THE VENT TUBES ON THE TRANSFER CASE AND THE TRANSMISSION. I LIKE TO ZIP TIE THE AIR LOCKER FEED LINES TO THE DIFFERENTIAL VENT TUBES JUST TO HELP KEEP THEM SECURE. THE FUEL PUMP WILL BE MOUNTED INSIDE THE CCHANNEL FRAME TO PROTECT IT WHILE IT'S ON THE TRAIL, AND THE FUEL LINE IS SECURED USING SOME CUSHION CLAMPS. THE GROUND STRAP FOR THE REAR MOUNTED BATTERY IS SECURED DIRECTLY TO THE FRAME RAIL AFTER REMOVING THE PAINT TO PROVIDE A GOOD QUALITY GROUND. BRAKE LINES ARE MADE FROM SOME THREESIXTEENTHS INCH STEEL HARD LINE. AND DOUBLE FLARED TUBE NUTS ARE INSTALLED ON EACH END. FINALLY THE BRAKE LINES ARE CLAMPED TO THE FRAME USING SOME CLAMPS FROM SUMMIT RACING.

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP WE DROP IN SOME ESSENTIAL ITEMS TO BE PREPARED FOR ANYTHING ON THE TRAIL.

(IAN)>> PLUMBING IS ALL FINISHED UP, WE'RE READY TO DROP THE BED ONTO THE FRAME, MOUNT THE FUEL CELL, FINISH HOOKING UP OUR FUEL LINES. BUT BEFORE I DO THAT THERE'S JUST ONE LAST LITTLE BIT OF CUSTOM FABRICATION THAT'LL BE EASIER TO TAKE CARE OF WITH EVERYTHING UP AND OUT OF THE WAY. LOCK JAW IS A REAR LEAF SPRUNG SUSPENDED TRUCK. AND WHEN YOU'RE WHEELING A LEAF SPRUNG RIG, THERE IS A TENDENCY TO PICK UP WHAT'S CALLED AXLE WRAP. NOW THAT HAPPENS WHEN THE TRANSMISSION AND TRANSFER CASE ARE IN LOW GEAR AND YOU'VE GOT LOTS OF TRACTION OFF ROAD, WHICH WON'T BE PROBLEM WITH THESE RED LABEL CRAWLERS. THE TORQUE FROM THE ENGINE CAN ACTUALLY CAUSE THE DIFFERENTIAL TO TWIST ON THE LEAF SPRINGS. BASICALLY PUSHING IT UP IN THE AIR AT THE FRONT. NOW THE PROBLEM WITH THAT IS THERE'S TWO ISSUES. THE FIRST IS IT BENDS THE LEAF SPRINGS, AND IT CAN ACTUALLY END UP BREAKING ONE OF THESE LEAVES. IT CAN ALSO PUT THE DRIVELINE IN SUCH A BIND IT'LL BREAK THE UJOINT AND YOU'LL BE DEAD ON THE TRAIL. NOW TO PREVENT THAT WE'RE GONNA BUILD WHAT'S CALLED AN ANTIWRAP BAR. IT'S BASICALLY GONNA LOCK IN OFF THE PINION GUARD AND THE TOP OF THE TRUSS AND TRAVEL FORWARD TO A CROSS MEMBER. THAT WON'T LIMIT THE AXLE ARTICULATION OR SUSPENSION MOVEMENT WHEN WE'RE OFF ROAD BUT IT WILL PREVENT THAT DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING FROM TWISTING AND WE WON'T HAVE ANY ISSUES. A CROSS MEMBER NEEDS TO BE ADDED TO THE M-715'S FRAME FOR THE ANTIWRAP BAR. THE FRONT SWING SHACKLE ASSEMBLY IS TACKED INTO PLACE AND THE LENGTH OF THE ANTIWRAP BAR IS MEASURED.

A POLY BUSHING TUBE IS TACKED ONTO ONE END OF THE

WRAP BAR AND THE OPPOSITE END WITH A THREE QUARTER INCH HEIM IS ATTACHED TO THE SWING SHACKLE. THE PINION SUPPORT IS THEN MODIFIED TO ACCEPT OUR NEW ANTIWRAP BAR WITH AN ADDITIONAL TAB TO PROVIDE A DOUBLE SHEER MOUNT.

TABS FOR THE UPPER MOUNTS ARE ADDED TO THE TOP OF THE TRUSS AND THE UPPER TUBE IS ATTACHED TO THE LOWER ANTIWRAP BAR. THE UPPER AND LOWER MOUNT WILL LOCK THE AXLE HOUSING IN PLACE, PREVENT IT FROM TWISTING, BUT WE DO NOT WANT TO LIMIT THE SUSPENSION MOVEMENT. THAT'S WHY WE USED A SWING SHACKLE AT THE FRONT OF THE ANTIWRAP BAR. IF WE MOUNTED THIS JOINT SOLID, IT WOULD PREVENT THE LEAF SPRING FROM MOVING UP AND DOWN. BUT BY USING THIS SWING SHACKLE AS THE SUSPENSION COMPRESSES IT CAN SWING FORWARD. AND AS THE LEAF SPRINGS DROP OUT IT'LL SWING BACK. AND THAT WON'T LIMIT OUR SUSPENSION MOVEMENT WHEN WE'RE OFF ROAD. BY USING A HEIM JOINT AT THE FRONT OF THE BAR IT

ALSO ALLOWS FOR A GOOD AMOUNT OF ARTICULATION. A LOT OF GUYS LIKE TO MOUNT THESE ANTIWRAP BARS RIGHT OUT HERE ON THE SIDE OF THE FRAME RAIL. BUT WHEN I HAVE A 14 BOLT I LIKE TO MOVE IT TO THE INSIDE AND USE THE PINION GUARD AS THE LOWER MOUNT BECAUSE YOU HAVE TO REMEMBER. I'M GONNA HAVE A DRIVESHAFT GOING FROM THIS YOKE UP TO THE YOKE OF THE TRANSFER CASE. AND BY INSTALLING THE ANTIWRAP BAR RIGHT IN THAT LOCATION WHAT I'VE BASICALLY ADDED TO THIS

RIG IS A DRIVESHAFT SKID PLATE. IF A BIG ROCK GETS UP UNDERNEATH THIS FRAME, INSTEAD OF HITTING THE DRIVESHAFT IT'LL HIT THIS ANTIWRAP BAR. I CAN DRAG THE TRUCK DOWN IT AND KEEP HEADING DOWN THE TRAIL.

I'VE ALREADY TOLD YOU THAT THE PLAN IS TO LEAVE THE PATINA ON THE EXTERIOR OF THIS TRUCK ALL ALONE. THIS IS A GOOD 50 YEARS WORTH OF WEAR, AND THE TRUCK HAS EARNED THIS STYLE. NOW INSIDE THE BED IT'S A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENT. I PLAN TO USE THIS TRUCK WHEN I'M ON THE TRAILS. I WANT TO MAKE EASIER TO MAINTAIN AND KEEP CLEAN. BUT BEFORE I GO AHEAD AND SPRAY A GOOD COATING OF

TRUCK BED LINER IN HERE, THERE'S A LITTLE BIT OF

FAB WORK I WANT TO TAKE CARE OF FOR GOODIES THAT I'M GONNA NEED ON THE TRAIL. THE FIRST STEP IS TO SIMPLY LAY OUT EVERYTHING I'M GONNA NEED TO HAVE IN THE BACK OF THE TRUCK, STARTING WITH A SUMMIT RACING 20 GALLON ALUMINUM FUEL CELL. AN ARB DUAL AIR COMPRESSOR THAT WILL BE

USED TO ENERGIZE OUR AIR LOCKERS, BUT THE DUAL

COMPRESSOR ALSO PROVIDES ENOUGH AIR TO INFLATE TIRES AND RUN AIR TOOLS. RUSTY'S OFF ROAD BATTERY BOX TO SECURE AN OPTIMA BATTERY. ARB FRIDGE TO KEEP FOOD AND DRINKS COLD ON LONG TRAIL RIDES. AND SOME SWAG OFF ROAD LOCKABLE AMMO CANS FOR STORAGE. THEN A QUICK TEST FIT ONTO THE FRAME.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, WHEN YOU'RE TIG WELDING SOME TIMES THE BEST FILLER MATERIAL IS NONE AT ALL.

(ANNOUNCER)>> NOW SHOP TIPS FOR STRONGER, SAFER WELDS.

(IAN)>> SO FAR WE'VE COVERED THE PRINCIPLES OF TIG WELDING. HOW TO PREP DIFFERENT TYPES OF TUNGSTEN FOR DIFFERENT BASE MATERIAL. BUT BEFORE WE DROP THE HELMET AND START WELDING I WANT TO TAKE A LITTLE BIT OF TIME TO TALK

ABOUT FILLER MATERIAL. FILLER MATERIAL IS AVAILABLE MOST COMMONLY IN 36 INCH LONG STRAIGHT RODS IN EITHER 10 OR 50 POUND BOXES. THE MOST COMMON TYPES OF FILLER MATERIAL USED IN OFF ROAD FABRICATION ARE STEEL, STAINLESS STEEL, ALUMINUM, AND SILICONE BRONZE. FOR THINNER MATERIAL I OFTEN JUST RUN SOME WIRE OUT OF THE MIG WELDER TO ACT AS FILLER MATERIAL. ALL FILLER MATERIAL HAS DESIGNATED MARKINGS ON THE BOX OR THE RODS TO IDENTIFY THEM. TYPICAL STEEL FILLER RODS HAVE THE SAME DESIGNATION

AS OUR MIG WELDING WIRE, ER 70-S DASH SIX. "ER" FOR ELECTRIC ROD, "70" FOR TENSILE STRENGTH IN THOUSANDTHS, 70 THOUSAND POUNDS PER SQUARE INCH, "S" FOR SOLID, AND "SIX" IS THE CHEMICAL MAKE UP OF THE ROD. STAINLESS FILLER RODS ARE MATCHED TO THE BASE MATERIAL. IF YOU'RE WELDING 308 STAINLESS STEEL, YOU'LL WANT A ROD WITH THE DESIGNATION OF ER 308. ALUMINUM FILLER HAS MANY DIFFERENT DESIGNATIONS. A GOOD ALL PURPOSE ROD IS ER 4043. ELECTRIC ROD AND THE 4043 IS THE CHEMICAL MAKE UP OF THE FILLER. SILICON BRONZE IS A LOW STRENGTH BRONZE ROD WITH HIGH SILICON CONTENT. IT IS MOST OFTEN USED WHEN BUILDING EXHAUST OR HEADERS BECAUSE IT MELTS SOONER THAN THE MILD STEEL BASE MATERIAL AND FLOWS AROUND THE JOINT. JUST AS IMPORTANT AS FILLER MATERIAL IS JOINT PREPARATION. IT'S NOT LIKE A MIG WELDER WHERE YOU CAN JUST GRAB TWO PIECES OF STEEL AND START WELDING. YOU NEED TO PREP THE JOINT BEFORE YOU FIRE UP THE TIG. THAT MEANS YOU NEED TO REMOVE ANY OIL, PAINT, RUST, MILL SCALE, EVEN MARKINGS FROM A PAINT PEN OR A PERMANENT MARKER CAN CONTAMINATE THE JOINT. THIS IS OFTEN A MULTIPLE STEP PROCESS. FIRST CHEMICALLY REMOVING ANY CUTTING FLUID OR LUBE BY WIPING THE JOINT DOWN WITH SOME DEGREASER. THEN GRINDING THE JOINT WITH EITHER FLAT WHEEL OR A BELT SANDER. AND FINALLY FINISHING IT OFF WITH SOME SCOTCHBRITE, SAND PAPER, OR A ROLL LOCK DISC. ALUMINUM JOINT PREP IS A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENT. YOU'RE NOT GONNA FIND MILL SCALE OR RUST ON A PIECE OF ALUMINUM. BUT AFTER YOU DEGREASE IT, YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE OXIDIZING LAYER BY USING A FULL STAINLESS STEEL WIRE BRUSH THAT YOU ONLY USE ON ALUMINUM JOINTS TO

PREVENT CONTAMINATION. QUICK TIP THOUGH, DON'T JUST PREP THE TOP SIDE OF THE JOINT. FLIP THE PIECE OVER AND MAKE SURE YOU PREP THE BACK SIDE AS WELL BECAUSE AS YOU'RE FUSING THESE TWO

PIECES OF ALUMINUM TOGETHER, LEFT OVER OXIDIZING ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE JOINT CAN BOIL UP INTO THE MOLTEN PUDDLE AND CAUSE CONTAMINATION. LIKE ALL FORMS OF WELDING, YOU WILL FIND MANY DIFFERENT TYPES OF JOINTS THAT YOU NEED TO PRACTICE WELDING WITH DIFFERENT COUPONS. BUTT JOINTS, INSIDE AND OUTSIDE CORNER JOINTS,

TJOINTS, AND LAP JOINTS, BUT TIG WELDING ALSO ALLOWS ONE ADDITIONAL BENEFIT. A WELD JOINT THAT IS A PERFECT STARTING POINT

WHEN LEARNING TIG WELDING IS WHAT'S CALLED THE FULL FUSION BUTT JOINT. WHEN WORKING WITH THIN MATERIAL LIKE SHEET METAL, OR IN THE WORLD OF OFF ROAD FABRICATION BUILDING CUSTOM EXHAUST, IT'S A GREAT WAY TO PRACTICE GOOD JOINT PREP AND SETUP BECAUSE WHAT WE'RE GONNA BE DOING IS FUSING THIS JOINT TOGETHER WITH NO FILLER MATERIAL. IN THIS CASE WE'RE SIMPLY USING THE BASE MATERIAL AS THE FILLER. THE WELDER IS SET AT A LOW AMPERAGE WITH A SLOW PULSE

RATE TO LIMIT THE HEAT INPUT INTO THE MATERIAL.

I HAVE FOUND THAT WHEN WORKING WITH STAINLESS STEEL EXHAUST TUBING, FUSION WELDING GIVES THE BEST STRENGTH AND APPEARANCE ON THE FINISHED WELD. THIS TYPE OF WELDING HELPS YOU PRACTICE HEAT INPUT INTO THE MATERIAL, AS WELL AS CONTROL OVER THE MOLTEN PUDDLE AT A PRECISE LOCATION. THIS IS A GREAT STARTING POINT. SO BEFORE YOU GRAB A BUNCH OF MILD STEEL AND PRACTICE LAP JOINTS AND TJOINTS, GET YOURSELF SOME EXHAUST PIPE, WHETHER IT'S STAINLESS STEEL OR JUST REGULAR MILD STEEL, AND PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE.

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP, A CUSTOM FUEL FILLER SETUP

THAT'S OUT OF SIGHT!

(IAN)>> WITH THE BED MOCKED INTO PLACE, I CAN ALREADY SEE I MAY HAVE TO MOVE A FEW OF THE ITEMS I JUST SET IN THERE. THAT'S WHY I PUT THEM IN. RIGHT NOW, PUT ON THE FRAME BEFORE I MOUNTED ANYTHING. THE FIRST IS GONNA BE THE FUEL CELL. SURE I COULD JUST CUT A LITTLE HOLE FOR THESE OUTLETS AND DROP THE CELL FLUSH TO THE BED FLOOR BUT I'VE GOT SOMETHING A LITTLE BIT COOLER PLANNED. IT'S GONNA REQUIRE RECESSING THE FUEL CELL INTO THE BED AND MAKING IT WORK WITH OUR NEW SPARE TIRE MOUNT. WITH THE DIMENSIONS OF THE FUEL CELL MARKED ONTO THE BED FLOOR, ALL FOUR CORNERS ARE FIRST CUT WITH A HOLE SAW.

THAT MAKES ROOM FOR THE SAWZALL BLADE TO TRIM OUT THE ENTIRE FLOOR. THE NEW DROPPED FLOOR PLATES ARE MADE FROM EIGHTH INCH STEEL PLATE THAT IS PLASMA CUT AND BENT 90 DEGREES ON BOTH ENDS. THE SIDES ARE THEN MEASURED, CUT, AND TACKED INTO PLACE.

AFTER PREPPING THE TRUCK BED, BOTH SIDES OF THE NEW DROPPED FLOOR ARE TACKED INTO PLACE.

THE CELL FITS SNUGGLY INTO POSITION AND THE SUMMIT RACING FILLER NECK REPLACES THE FACTORY CAP.

THE SPARE TIRE PLATE IS CUT TO FIT AROUND THE FILLER NECK FOR OUR NEW FUEL TANK. IT'S GROUND SMOOTH AND ATTACHED TO THE UNDERSIDE OF THE TIRE. BY SINKING THE FUEL CELL DOWN INTO THE BED OF THE TRUCK I NOW HAVE A GOOD ANGLE FOR THE FUEL FILLER THAT I'VE NOW MOUNTED INSIDE THE CENTER OF OUR SPARE TIRE MOUNT. IT'S A REAL CLEAN TRICK LOOK THAT YOU NORMALLY DON'T SEE ON OFF ROAD TRUCKS. I'VE BASICALLY HIDDEN THE FUEL FILLER INSIDE THE SPARE WHEEL. WITH THE WHEEL AND TIRE SUSPENDED BY THE ENGINE CRANE, TEMPORARY MOUNTS ARE USED TO HOLD THE SPARE TIRE MOUNTING PLATE IN PLACE.

WHEEL AND TIRE IS THEN REMOVED, AND INCH AND A QUARTER DOM IS CUT AND TRIMMED TO FIT. PLATES THAT WILL TIE INTO THE TRUCK'S FRAME AND FUTURE ROLL CAGE ARE DROPPED ONTO THE BED AND

THE ASSEMBLY IS FULLY WELDED. [ welder crackling ]

(IAN)>> NOW ALL THAT'S LEFT TO DO IS TO PULL THE FUEL CELL BACK OUT, FINISH WELD THAT DROP PANEL THAT I PUT IN PLACE. THEN I'LL PULL THE BED BACK OFF OF THE FRAME AND GET IT READY FOR A GOOD COAT OF BED LINER. THE FAB WORK AT LEAST ON THE BACK HALF OF THE TRUCK, ALL DONE!