Lock Jaw: Hemi

(ANNOUNCER)>> WHEN WE FOUND IT SITTING IN THE SALVAGE YARD THIS JEEP M-715 STILL HAD ITS ORIGINAL 140 HORSEPOWER TORNADO ENGINE.

FOR XTREME OFF ROAD THAT'S SIMPLY NOT ENOUGH POWER. SO WE'RE GONNA TEAR DOWN THIS FIVE POINT SEVEN LITER HEMI AND REBUILD IT FROM THE OIL PAN UP. PLUS RAGING BULL GETS A STRONG SET OF STOPPERS. AND WE'LL SHOW YOU HOW TO PICK THE RIGHT ELECTRODE FOR YOUR TIG WELDING JOB.

(IAN)>> WE'RE STARTING TODAY BY WORKING ON PROJECT LOCKJAW, OR AT LEAST ONE PART OF THAT RIG. I'M GONNA GO AHEAD AND TEAR APART THIS FIVE POINT SEVEN LITER HEMI THAT WE PULLED FROM THE JUNKYARD WHEN WE SAVED OUR M-715 FROM BECOMING SCRAP. THIS MOTOR IS QUESTIONABLE ON THE INSIDE BECAUSE I THINK IT'S BEEN UNDERNEATH SOME WATER. IT'S OUT OF A FLOOD CAR. THE ONLY WAY TO FIND OUT IS TO TEAR IT DOWN, HAVE A LOOK, AND THEN REBUILD IT.

REALLY HAPPY WITH WHAT WE FOUND SO FAR INSIDE THIS MOTOR. THERE'S NO REAL EVIDENCE OF WATER GETTING DOWN INTO THE CYLINDERS AND SEIZING THE ENGINE UP. SO IF THIS CAR WAS ACTUALLY IN A FLOOD, I DON'T THINK THE WATER GOT HIGH ENOUGH TO COME IN THROUGH THE THROTTLE BODY AND SEIZE UP THE ENGINE. THERE IS A LITTLE BIT OF SURFACE RUST IN A COUPLE OF CYLINDERS, BUT I THINK THAT'S ACTUALLY JUST FROM SITTING AROUND THE WRECKING YARD, NOT BEING

IN A FULL BLOWN FLOOD AND RUINING THIS MOTOR. WE MAY HAVE GOTTEN A PRETTY GOOD DEAL ON THIS ENGINE. NEXT STEP IN THE REBUILD IS WE'LL SPIN IT OVER AND CHECK THE BOTTOM END. WITH THE ENGINE ROTATED AND THE FLUID DRAINED, THE OIL PAN AND OIL PUMP PICK UP ARE REMOVED.

EACH CONNECTING ROD IS MARKED AND THE PISTONS ARE TAPPED OUT OF THE BLOCK.

THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE IS THEN DISASSEMBLED, STARTING WITH THE WATER PUMP. TO HELP REMOVE THE HARMONIC BALANCER A LITTLE WD 40 RUST RELEASE PENETRANT WILL HELP BREAK IT FREE. NEXT ARE THE ALTERNATOR, TIMING COVER, TIMING CHAIN, AND CRANK AND CAM GEAR. FINALLY THE LIFTER RETAINERS AND ROLLER LIFTERS ARE REMOVED, FOLLOWED BY THE CAM SHAFT.

WITH THE ENGINE COMPLETELY DISASSEMBLED I AM VERY HAPPY WITH WHAT I'VE FOUND. THERE'S NO REAL MAJOR ISSUES. THE MAJORITY OF THE CYLINDERS ARE IN SUCH GOOD SHAPE YOU CAN STILL SEE THE CROSS HATCH PATTERN IN THEM AND ALL THE BEARINGS LOOKED GOOD WHEN THEY CAME OFF THE CRANK. STILL ONE PROBLEM AREA AND THAT IS THIS REAR CYLINDER THAT I THOUGHT JUST HAD A LITTLE BIT OF SURFACE RUST. IT'S GOT SOME THAT'S A LITTLE BIT DEEPER THAN THAT. SO I THINK THE ANSWER TO FIX THAT IS STILL GONNA BE TO TAKE THE ENGINE TO OUR LOCAL MACHINE SHOP AND

HAVE THAT ADDRESSED. WHILE I'M THERE I'LL ALSO HAVE THEM CHECK THE CYLINDER HEADS THAT CAME OFF THIS ENGINE. AND THE CYLINDER HEADS ON A HEMI, THAT'S WHAT MAKES IT VERY UNIQUE. THE TERM "HEMI" IS SHORT FORM FOR HEMISPHERICAL, AND IT'S REFERRING TO THE SHAPE OF THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER INSIDE THE CYLINDER HEAD. IT'S BASICALLY HALF OF A PERFECT SPHERE. NOW THIS PROVIDES A VERY SMOOTH TRANSITION FOR THE FUEL AND AIR THAT COMES INTO THE INTAKE VALVE AND

THEN IS BURNED INSIDE THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER TO THEN EXIT THROUGH THE EXHAUST. IT'S VERY EASY FOR THE FUEL AND AIR TO MOVE AROUND.

NOW THE OLD SCHOOL STYLE HEMIS HAD ONE SINGLE SPARK

PLUG AND IT WAS RIGHT IN BETWEEN THAT INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES. THESE MODERN HEMIS ACTUALLY HAVE TWO PLUGS PER CYLINDER. NOW THIS JUST OPTIMIZES THE BURNING OF THE FUEL AND AIR INSIDE THE COMBUSTION CHAMBER TO GIVE US GOOD POWER AND HELP WITH EMISSIONS. AND WHEN YOU COMPARE IT TO AN OLDER STYLE COMBUSTION CHAMBER YOU CAN EASILY SEE THE DIFFERENCE. YOU CAN SEE THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST. YES THEY'RE RIGHT BESIDE EACH OTHER BUT THE FUEL AND AIR CHARGE TAKES A RATHER DIFFERENT PATH FROM ONE VALVE TO THE NEXT. AND THE PLUG IS ACTUALLY ANGLED AWAY FROM THE INTAKE VALVE. THAT CAN CAUSE WHAT'S CALLED SHROUDING OF THAT INTAKE CHARGE, LESS EFFICIENT BURN, AND THAT IS WHY YOU ALWAYS MAKE A LOT MORE POWER WITH A HEMI STYLE COMBUSTION CHAMBER. NOW THESE HEADS LOOK TO BE IN GREAT SHAPE BUT SINCE WE'RE TAKING THE BLOCK DOWN TO THE LOCAL MACHINE

SHOP, IT JUST MAKES SENSE TO TAKE THE HEADS AS WELL.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, THE ENGINE EXPERTS GIVE OUR HEMI A COMPLETE EVALUATION. PLUS SIX PISTONS OF STOPPING POWER FOR PROJECT RAGING BULL.

(IAN)>> OUR LOCAL MACHINE SHOP IS SHACKLETT'S AUTO MACHINE IN NASHVILLE, TENNESSEE. A FULL SERVICE ENGINE MACHINE SHOP THAT CAN HANDLE ANY TYPE OF MACHINE WORK, FROM CYLINDER HEAD REBUILDING, CRANK POLISHING, DECKING, AND BORING AND HONING. AND AFTER LOOKING AT THE ENGINE BLOCK THAT WE BROUGHT IN, WE KNEW THAT OUR ENGINE WAS IN GOOD HANDS.

(JOHN)>> WE'RE GONNA CHECK IT ALL OUT, MAKE SURE THAT THE BLOCK CAN BE HONED OR BORED AND HONED, REDO THE CYLINDER HEADS, AND PROBABLY PUT VALVE SEATS IN ALL 16 TO MAKE SURE THEY DON'T FALL OUT. A LOT OF THE CHRYSLERS HAD A PROBLEM WITH THE VALVE SEATS FALLING OUT.

(IAN)>> AND WHILE THE CREW AT SHACKLETT'S AUTO

MACHINE WORK ON OUR HEMI PARTS, WE'LL GO AHEAD AND CLEAN UP THE OIL PAN AND OIL PUMP PICK UP. AND THEN WE CAN START PAINTING. WE'LL USE DUPLICOLOR ENGINE ENAMEL.

WHAT COLOR, CHRYSLER HEMI ORANGE. IT'S DESIGNED TO WITHSTAND TEMPERATURES UP TO 500 DEGREES, AND IT'S RESISTANT TO OIL AND FLUIDS. PERFECT FOR OUR ENGINE!

A COUPLE OF DAYS HAVE PASSED AND EVERYTHING IS BACK FROM THE MACHINE SHOP AND LOOKS GREAT. NOW SHACKLETT'S WENT AHEAD AND COMPLETELY REBUILT

BOTH CYLINDER HEADS.

THEY SURFACED THEM, GAVE THEM A THREE ANGLE VALVE JOB, ALL NEW SEALS. AND IF YOU REMEMBER, THERE WAS SOME CONCERN ABOUT THE VALVE SEATS IN THOSE ALUMINUM HEMI HEADS. BUT IT ENDS UP AT SOME POINT IN TIME CHRYSLER

UPGRADED THOSE SEATS FROM THE FACTORY. AND WHEN THEY TORE THOSE HEADS DOWN THEY FOUND THE BIGGER SEATS ALREADY INSTALLED. SO THOSE ARE GOOD TO GO. THE BLOCK, THEY CLEANED IT UP. THEY DID HAVE TO PUNCH IT 20 OVER ON ALL EIGHT CYLINDERS. THAT'S PERFECT, NOW I HAVE A GOOD STARTING POINT. THEY PULED ALL THE OIL GALLERY PLUGS OUT, PRESSURE WASHED AND CLEANED THE WHOLE BLOCK. THIS IS READY TO BE REBUILT. FOR THAT WE NEED SOME NEW PARTS.

NOW I'VE GOT A COMPLETE ENGINE REBUILD KIT ALL FROM ROCK AUTO DOT COM. IT COMES WITH ALL THE GASKETS, BEARINGS, NEW OIL PUMP, PISTON RINGS.

IT EVEN CAME WITH EIGHT PISTONS. NOW THESE HAVE ALREADY BEEN INSTALLED ON OUR ORIGINAL CONNECTING RODS BECAUSE I DROPPED THEM OFF WITH THE BLOCK AT THE MACHINE SHOP. AND THAT'S SOMETHING YOU'RE GONNA HAVE TO PLAN FOR. IF YOU TAKE YOUR MOTOR APART AND YOU SEE THAT THE PISTONS ARE ACTUALLY PRESSED ONTO THE RODS, YOU CAN'T CHANGE THOSE AT HOME. IT HAS TO BE DONE AT THE MACHINE SHOP. BUT RIGHT NOW THIS MOTOR IS READY TO BE REBUILT AND THEN I'M GONNA HAVE A BRAND NEW ENGINE. FIRST STEP IN THE REBUILD IS TO INSTALL THE NEW MAIN BEARINGS INTO THE ENGINE BLOCK, AND APPLY SOME ROYAL PURPLE MAXX TOUGH ASSEMBLY LUBE. THIS PREVENTS BEARING METAL TO METAL CONTACT DURING THE INITIAL START UP. THE CRANKSHAFT IS THEN INSTALLED AND THE MAIN BEARING CAPS ARE TORQUED. BEFORE TORQUING THE CAPS ARE SET IN PLACE WITH A DEAD BLOW HAMMER TO MAKE SURE THAT THEY ARE SEATED PROPERLY. AFTER TORQUEING TO SPEC, THE MAIN BEARING CAPS REQUIRE AN ADDITIONAL 90 DEGREES OF ROTATION.

USING A TORQUE ANGLE GAUGE INSURES PRECISE, CONSISTENT ROTATION ON ALL OF THE BOLTS. PISTON RINGS ARE ASSEMBLED ONTO THE PISTONS WITH THE GAPS STAGGERED 180 DEGREES APART.

ROD BEARINGS ARE PLACED ONTO THE CONNECTING RODS, AND THE PISTONS INSTALLED INTO THE BLOCK, AND THE ROD BOLTS ARE THEN TORQUED. THE CAMSHAFT, TIMING SET WITH THE TIMING MARKS ALIGNED, TIMING CHAIN TENSIONER, AND LIFTERS ARE DROPPED INTO PLACE, FOLLOWED BY THE OIL PUMP AND THE OIL PUMP PICK UP. THE HEAD GASKETS ARE A MULTILAYERED STEEL DESIGN, AND LABELED TO INSURE CORRECT ORIENTATION DURING INSTALLATION. THE CYLINDER HEADS ARE DROPPED ONTO THE BLOCK, TORQUED DOWN FOLLOWING THE CORRECT SEQUENCE, FOLLOWED BY THE PUSH RODS AND ROCKER ARMS. THE TIMING COVER, WATER PUMP, AND OIL PAN FINISH UP THE ENGINE BLOCK ASSEMBLY.

NOW OUR ENGINE IS BASICALLY A FACTORY REFRESH, BUT THAT DOESN'T MEAN WE CAN'T THROW A FEW GOODIES AT IT. THERE WAS AN ISSUE WITH OUR EXHAUST WHEN WE MOCKED EVERYTHING UP IN THE FRAME. THIS MANIFOLD THAT WAS ON OUR ENGINE, YOU CAN SEE, IT DUMPS THE EXHAUST STRAIGHT BACK, BASICALLY RIGHT INTO OUR JEEP'S FIREWALL. SO INSTEAD OF DIGGING AROUND FOR ANOTHER MANIFOLD THAT MIGHT BE A LITTLE BIT BETTER, I'M GONNA UPGRADE THE SYSTEM TO A SET OF TUBULAR EXHAUST HEADERS. NOW THESE ARE FROM GIBSON EXHAUST AND THEY'RE

DESIGNED TO FIT A FIVE POINT SEVEN LITER HEMI IN A CHRYSLER CAR, LIKE A 300-C OR A CHALLENGER.

NOW NOT ONLY WILL THEY GET ME A BETTER LOCATION FOR THE EXHAUST TO EXIT, THEY ARE 100 PERCENT STAINLESS CONSTRUCTION AND THEN CERAMIC COATED. THAT WILL HELP KEEP THE UNDER HOOD TEMPERATURES IN CHECK. THE TUBULAR DESIGN WILL HELP IMPROVE FLOW AND GIVE US MORE POWER.

SO NOW IT'LL BE EASIER TO BUILD A CUSTOM EXHAUST AND WE'LL HAVE MORE POWER OUT OF OUR ENGINE.

THE NEW EXHAUST HEADERS BOLT STRAIGHT ONTO THE HEADS WITH A NEW GASKET AND THE INCLUDED FASTENERS. AND NOW WE HAVE A COMPLETELY REBUILT FIVESEVEN HEMI READY TO PUT SOME POWER INTO OUR CLASSIC JEEP M-715.

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP, A PROPERLY PREPARED ELECTRODE IS ESSENTIAL FOR CLEAN, STRONG TIG WELDS.

(ANNOUNCER)>> NOW SHOP TIPS FOR STRONGER, SAFER WELDS.

(IAN)>> THIS YEAR'S WELDING TIPS ARE ALL ABOUT TIG WELDING, AND IT IS A VERY IMPORTANT WELDING PROCESS TO BECOME COMPETENT AT IN THE WORLD

OF OFF ROAD FABRICATION. NOW TODAY WE'RE GONNA TAKE A LOOK AT DIFFERENT TYPES OF ELECTRODES, AND I HAVE A RATHER UNIQUE WAY TO PRACTICE TIG WELDING AND FEEDING YOUR FILLER MATERIAL. THERE ARE THREE MAIN TYPES OF TIG WELDING ELECTRODES USED MOST OFTEN IN OFF ROAD FABRICATION. GREEN, OR PURE TUNGSTEN, THAT HAS A MINIMUM OF 99.5 PERCENT TUNGSTEN IN IT. PURE TUNGSTEN IS MOST OFTEN USED WITH TRADITIONAL, NONINVERTER TIG WELDERS IN THE ALTERNATING CURRENT SETUP. PURE TUNGSTEN HAS GOOD ARC STABILITY BUT THEY CANNOT CARRY A LOT OF HEAT IN THE ELECTRODE.

THIS IS WHY THE END OF THE TUNGSTEN BALLS WHILE WELDING. ORANGE, OR CERIATED TUNGSTEN, CONTAINS TWO

PERCENT CERIUM, A NONRADIOACTIVE RARE EARTH ELEMENT. CERIATED HAS A HIGHER CURRENT CAPACITY AND BETTER ARC STARTING CAPABILITIES. THEY ARE USED IN BOTH CONVENTIONAL AND INVERTER

TYPE MACHINES IN A/C OR D/C POLARITY. IT EASILY RETAINS ITS SHARPENED SHAPE WHILE WELDING. RED, OR THORIATED TUNGSTEN, CONTAINS TWO PERCENT THORIA. AT ONE TIME THIS WAS THE MOST COMMON TYPE OF

ELECTRODE USED, BUT THE PRESENCE OF THORIA RAISED HEALTH CONCERNS BECAUSE OF THE LOW LEVEL RADIATION THAT'S PRESENT IN THE GRINDING DUST WHEN IT'S SHARPENED.

TUNGSTEN IS ALWAYS IDENTIFIED BY THE COLOR. NOT THE COLOR OF THE ACTUAL TUNGSTEN BUT BY THE PAINT THAT'S ADDED ONTO THE END OF IT.

PURE TUNGSTEN IS ALWAYS GREEN, CERIATED IS ORANGE, AND THORIATED IS RED. NOW YOU DO NEED TO PAY ATTENTION WHEN YOU USE THE TUNGSTEN. IF YOU PUT A LOT OF HEAT THROUGH IT YOU CAN MELT THE PAINT OFF THE END OF IT. SO IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO KEEP THE PACKAGES THAT THE TUNGSTEN COME IN WHEN YOU STORE THEM. THAT WAY THEY WON'T GET ALL MIXED UP. JUST AS IMPORTANT IS THE SIZE OF THE TUNGSTEN. THE TWO MOST POPULAR SIZES I USE ARE SIXTEENTH OF AN INCH TUNGSTEN. THIS IS WHEN I WANT A VERY PRECISE ARC. MAYBE USING SOME THINNER MATERIAL, SOMETHING THAT'S UNDER AN EIGHTH OF AN INCH THICK. THREETHIRTY SECONDS TUNGSTEN IS WHEN I WANT TO PUT A LOT OF HEAT INTO SOMETHING. I JUST WANT A GOOD, STRONG, BIG ARC. BUT WHAT'S ALSO IMPORTANT IS HOW YOU SHARPEN THEM. CERIATED AND THORIATED TUNGSTEN NEEDS TO BE SHARPENED TO A POINT WITH THE GRAIN OF THE GRIND TRAVELING FROM THE TIP LENGTH WISE DOWN THE ELECTRODE. IT IS SHARPENED TO TWO AND A HALF TIMES THE ELECTRODE DIAMETER. A SHARPENED TIP PROVIDES A VERY STABLE ARC. SOME PEOPLE LIKE TO BLUNT THE TIP OF THE ELECTRODE AFTER SHARPENING. THIS GIVES THE ARC A FLAT FACE AND EASIER STARTING CHARACTERISTICS. DO NOT GRIND THE TUNGSTEN SIDEWAYS ON THE GRINDING STONE. IT'LL CREATE CROSS GROOVES ON THE TIP AND A WANDERING ARC. WITH A SHARPENED TUNGSTEN AND SOME COUPONS TO WELD, YOU'RE READY TO STROKE THE FIRST ARC. THE PROBLEM IS IS EVERY TIME YOU CONTAMINATE THE TUNGSTEN, YOU HAVE TO BREAK IT OFF AND RESHARPEN IT, AND THAT WILL HAPPEN VERY OFTEN WHEN YOU'RE LEARNING THE PROCESS OF HEATING THE METAL UP WITH THE TUNGSTEN ELECTRODE AND ADDING FILLER ROD WITH YOUR FREE HAND. THERE IS A CHEAP AND EASY WAY TO PRACTICE THIS, AND THAT IS WITH AN OXY ACETYLENE TORCH.

TORCH WELDING WITH AN OXY ACETYLENE TORCH IS SOMEWHAT OF A LOST ART. YOU HEAT UP THE BASE MATERIAL WITH THE FLAME AND ADD FILLER MATERIAL TO THE MOLTEN PUDDLE. THIS IS THE EXACT SAME PROCESS AS TIG WELDING BUT IT'S MUCH MORE FORGIVING.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, OUR ROCK BOUNCER GETS POWERFUL DISC BRAKES ON ALL FOUR CORNERS.

(IAN)>> WE'RE GONNA FINISH THINGS UP TODAY BY JUMPING BACK ON OUR RAGING BULL ROCK BOUNCER PROJECT. NOW I'M SURE SOME OF YOU HAVE WONDERED WHAT'S BEEN GOING ON WITH THIS THING. IT'S KINDA LEFT BY THE WAYSIDE WHILE WE'VE BEEN TEARING INTO THAT M-715 WE FOUND IN THE JUNKYARD. AND THAT'S GONNA HAPPEN WHEN YOU'RE BUILDING A VEHICLE FROM SCRATCH LIKE THIS. HONESTLY SOME TIMES YOU JUST HAVE TO STOP AND WAIT FOR SOME PARTS TO ARRIVE, AND THAT IS WHERE WE'RE AT RIGHT NOW.

OUR BRAKE CALIPERS HAVE SHOWED UP. SO IT'S TIME TO PULL THESE WHEELS BACK OFF AND

ACTUALLY GET BRAKES ON THIS TRUCK.

NOW THE BRAKE PACKAGE FOR OUR BUGGY IS ALL FROM WILWOOD. I HAVE TWO MASTER CYLINDERS MOUNTED TO A PEDAL ASSEMBLY ON THE CHASSIS. AND THEY WILL FEED FOUR SIX PISTON CALIPERS AT ALL FOUR WHEELS. NOW GETTING A BRAKE PACKAGE TO EASILY FIT INSIDE OUR 16.5 INCH DOUBLE BEADLOCK STEEL WHEEL CAN BE CHALLENGING, BUT THIS ENDS UP BEING THE PERFECT COMBINATION. THE ROTOR IS AN OFF THE SHELF FACTORY ROTOR OFF OF A FORD E-350 VAN. THAT'S A ONE TON VAN, AND IN 1999 THEY WERE STILL EIGHT ON SIX AND A HALF BOLT PATTERN. SO IT LINES UP WITH OUR STUDS PERFECTLY. IT'S A DEEP DISH ROTOR BECAUSE FROM THE FACTORY THE VAN HAS AN EMERGENCY BRAKE INSIDE. SO IT HELPS OFFSET THE CALIPER INSIDE CLOSER TO THE AXLE HOUSING. THE CALIPER ITSELF IS A WILWOOD SIX PISTON UNIT, AND IT IS WHAT'S CALLED A PROGRESSIVE PISTON CALIPER. YOU CAN SEE THAT THE PISTONS ARE DIFFERENT SIZES, AND THAT JUST HELPS EVEN OUT THE CLAMPING PRESSURE OF THE PAD ON THAT ROTOR AS THE FLUID MOVES THROUGH THE CALIPER. MOUNTING THEM IS A LITTLE BIT TRICKY BECAUSE THAT PROGRESSIVE PISTON SETUP, THERE IS AN ARROW ON THE

CALIPER THAT WILL SHOW YOU WHICH WAY THE WHEEL NEEDS TO ROTATE WHEN YOU INSTALL IT. AND THAT'S JUST THE FIRST STEP TO CORRECTLY MOUNTING

A FIXED CALIPER. A SPACER NEEDS TO BE PLACED BETWEEN THE CALIPER AND THE OUTER EDGE OF THE ROTOR. IN THIS CASE I'M USING SOME PIECES OF RUBBER VACUUM TUBING. A TEMPLATE IS THEN MADE FROM SOME CARDBOARD AND CUT FROM THREESIXTEENTHS INCH STEEL.

TO MAKE THE HOLES I'LL USE MY NEW EDWARDS MANUFACTURING IRON WORKER. POSSIBLY THE FASTEST WAY TO CUT, NOTCH, OR PUNCH THICK PLATE LIKE THIS. THE BRACKET IS THEN BOLTED ONTO THE CALIPER. THE CALIPER IS THEN ROTATED TO THE TWO O'CLOCK POSITION TO MAKE SURE THE BLEEDER SCREW IS THE HIGHEST POINT IN THE SYSTEM, AND COMPRESSED AIR IS USED TO APPLY THE PADS INSIDE THE CALIPER TO

CENTER IT ON THE ROTOR. AND IT'S TACKED IN PLACE. AND NOW OUR ROCK BOUNCER HAS HIGH PERFORMANCE SIX PISTON BRAKES JUST LIKE AN ITALIAN SPORTS CAR.