SuperMax Stage 2 Final Mods

(NARRATOR)>> "PROJECT SUPERMAX" IS ABOUT TO BECOME ONE SCREAMING DIESEL. TODAY OUR SIX POINT SIX DURAMAX WILL GET POWER TO THE GROUND WITH THIS BUILT TRANSMISSION, AND AFTER AN EASY UPGRADE TO THE TRANSFER CASE WE'LL TURN THE CRANK ON ALL OUR NEW FOUND POWER. IT'S DIESEL DAY RIGHT NOW ON TRUCK TECH.

(LT)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO THE SHOP. TODAY WE'RE BACK ON "PROJECT SUPERMAX", OUR 2003 SINGLE CAB SHORT BED DIESEL POWERED SPORT TRUCK. NOW WE ARE MAKING GREAT PROGRESS ON THIS TRUCK. IT'S PAINTED, IT'S ASSEMBLED, AND IT'S LOOKING GOOD. IN FACT, WE ARE VERY CLOSE TO THE FINISH LINE ON THIS BUILD. IN FACT, TODAY'S THE LAST DAY THAT YOU'LL SEE US WORKING ON IT IN THE SHOP CAUSE NEXT TIME WE'RE HITTING THE ROAD. NOW RECENTLY WE'VE HAD THE ENGINE OUT. WE FRESHENED IT UP WITH SOME NEW HEAD GASKETS AND HEAD STUDS, AND WE JUST FINISHED UP INSTALLING OUR SCREAMIN' DIESEL S-366 SINGLE TURBO KIT, BUT WE STILL HAVEN'T INSTALLED THE TRANSMISSION YET. SO THAT'LL BE THE FIRST THING THAT WE TAKE CARE OF TODAY, AND WE HAVE A COUPLE OF OTHER UPGRADES THAT WE'RE GONNA DO TO FINISH UP STAGE TWO OF OUR HIGH PERFORMANCE DIESEL BUILD. IF YOU'RE SERIOUS ABOUT UPGRADING THE PERFORMANCE OF YOUR DURAMAX, THEN A BUILT TRANSMISSION IS A MUST. WE PICKED UP THIS BAD BOY FROM SCREAMIN' DIESEL PERFORMANCE, AND FIRST OF ALL, IT JUST LOOKS AWESOME. WE HAD IT POWDER COATED IN THE SAME "ILLUSION ORANGE" AS THE REST OF THE TURBO KIT. SO IT'LL ALL GO TOGETHER NICELY, BUT ITS BEAUTY IS MORE THAN JUST SKIN DEEP BECAUSE THIS TRANSMISSION IS RATED TO HOLD 750 HORSEPOWER, AND IT'S BUILT TO LAST. IT HAS UPGRADED CLUTCHES AND A MODIFIED HYDRAULIC SYSTEM THAT'LL GIVE YOU MORE FLUID PRESSURE AND BETTER SHIFTS. PLUS A COOL THING IS THEY ACTUALLY USE 2011 AND NEWER ALLISON CTHREE AND CFOUR CLUTCH PISTONS. THEY HAVE A STRONGER SPRING. SO IT'LL GIVE YOU A QUICKER RELEASE OF THE CLUTCH PACK, GIVING YOU A BETTER QUALITY SHIFT. THE TORQUE CONVERTER IS THE MAIN COUPLING BETWEEN THE ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION, AND IT'S IMPORTANT THAT YOU CHOOSE THE RIGHT ONE TO MATCH YOUR POWER LEVEL AND YOUR INTENDED USAGE. THIS ONE IS BUILT BY GOEREND SPECIFICALLY TO MATCH SCREAMIN' DIESEL PERFORMANCE'S SPECS. IT HAS A 2,200 RPM STALL SPEED, AND A TRIPLE DISC LOCK UP CLUTCH. IT HAS A BILLET FRONT COVER, BUT MOST IMPORTANT IS WHAT'S INSIDE. THIS ONE HAS A BILLET STATOR. NOW IF YOU PLAN ON USING YOUR TRUCK IN FOUR WHEEL DRIVE, LIKE DOING SLED PULLS OR BOOSTED LAUNCHES, THE BILLET STATOR IS AN IMPORTANT UPGRADE BECAUSE THE STOCK ONE JUST WON'T BE ABLE TO HANDLE THAT LEVEL OF ABUSE. SDP SENT US A BUNCH OF NEW PARTS THAT GO INSIDE THEIR TRANSMISSIONS AND A BUNCH OF FAILED ORIGINAL PARTS, AND WE'RE GONNA TELL YOU A LITTLE BIT MORE ABOUT THESE LATER ON, BUT FIRST WE WANT TO GET STARTED AND INSTALL THAT NEW TRANSMISSION. WITH EVERY CONVERTER WE INSTALL WE ALWAYS PREFILL IT WITH FLUID BEFORE PUTTING IT IN THE TRANS TO PREVENT DRY START UP. BECAUSE OF ITS SIZE, THIS ONE CAN TAKE JUST ABOUT TWO QUARTS. WHEN INSTALLING THE CONVERTER INTO THE TRANS, THERE ARE THREE DISTINCT CLUNKS TO LISTEN FOR, THE INPUT SHAFT, THE STATOR SUPPORT, AND FINALLY THE PUMP. I'LL BRING IN THE JACK, AND SINCE THE ALLISON WEIGHS ABOUT 320 POUNDS BY ITSELF PLUS ANOTHER 75 FOR THE CONVERTER, WE'LL USE OUR CRANE TO LIFT THE TRANS ONTO THE JACK...

...AND I'LL SECURE IT WITH A RATCHET STRAP. NEXT THE TRUCK GOES UP IN THE AIR AND THE TRANS CAN BE WHEELED IN. IT'S IMPORTANT THAT BOTH DOWEL PINS ARE INSTALLED IN THE ENGINE TO LINE EVERYTHING UP. THERE ARE NINE BOLTS THAT HOLD THE TRANS TO THE ENGINE, AND MANY ARE HARD TO REACH, BUT RESIST THE TEMPTATION TO LEAVE ONE OR TWO OUT. WITH THE RIGHT COMBINATION OF WRENCHES, EXTENSIONS, AND A LONG REACH, THEY ALL CAN BE INSTALLED. THE WORST THING ABOUT BEING ON TV IS THEY PUT ALL THESE DARN LIGHTS, AND IT'LL WARM THE PLACE UP. WE PICKED UP A NEW URETHANE TRANSMISSION MOUNT FROM MERCHANT AUTOMOTIVE THAT'LL MATCH NICELY WITH OUR URETHANE MOTOR MOUNTS, AND THE CROSSMEMBER CAN BE INSTALLED. NOW YOU MIGHT BE WONDERING, WHY DID I INSTALL A BRAND NEW TRANSMISSION AND HAVE THIS OLD, RUSTED OUT CROSSMEMBER. WELL CHECK THIS OUT. IT'S ACTUALLY NOT RUST.

ALL GONE! WITH THE BOLTS TIGHTENED, THIS SDP 750 ALLISON HAS MOVED PERMANENTLY INTO ITS NEW HOME.

(NARRATOR)>> STAY TUNED, UPGRADING THE TRANSFER CASE IS NEXT.

(LT)>> I'VE GOT THE ALLISON INSTALLED IN THE TRUCK, IT'S WIRED UP, AND WE'RE PRETTY MUCH READY TO GO. IT DOESN'T MATTER IF YOU HAVE A 500 HORSEPOWER DAILY DRIVER OR AN 1,800 HORSEPOWER RACE TRUCK, SDP CAN CUSTOM BUILD YOU AN ALLISON AUTOMATIC THAT'LL SUIT YOUR NEEDS. SO I JUST WANTED TO TAKE A COUPLE OF QUICK MINUTES AND SHOW YOU GUYS SOME OF THE COOL THINGS THAT GO ON INSIDE AN ALLISON AND HOW THE UPGRADES WILL HELP IT STAND UP TO MORE POWER, AND THE FIRST IS ACTUALLY PRETTY SIMPLE. IT'S JUST A PTO COVER. NOW THIS ONE'S MADE FROM BILLET ALUMINUM AND IT HAS A FLUID GUIDE THAT'S BEEN MACHINED INTO THE BACK. THERE'S A LEFT AND A RIGHT SIDE. NOW THIS GUIDE WORKS IN CONJUNCTION WITH THE MACHINE TRANSMISSION CASE, AND IT HELPS SLING EXTRA FLUID ONTO THE CTHREE CLUTCH PACK. NOW THIS IS SUPER IMPORTANT BECAUSE THE CTHREE IS THE HARDEST WORKING CLUTCH IN THE TRANSMISSION. SO IT CAN DEFINITELY BENEFIT FROM THE EXTRA FLUID. NOW ONE OF THE WEAKEST PARTS OF THE ALLISON AUTOMATIC IS THE CTWO CLUTCH HUB. NOW TO GET THE 750 HORSEPOWER RATING OUR TRUCK HAS A BILLET CTWO REPLACEMENT, BUT A MORE AFFORDABLE OPTION CAN BE HAD. THIS SLEEVE PRESSES ONTO THE OUTSIDE OF THE HUB, AND IT GIVES IT A RATING OF 650 HORSEPOWER. BASICALLY IT JUST CLAMPS TOGETHER THE SPLINES, PREVENTING THEM FROM DEFORMING UNDER POWER. OF COURSE YOU'RE GONNA NEED A MODIFIED PONE SUN GEAR THAT'S BEEN MACHINED TO HAVE THE EXTRA CLEARANCE TO FIT AROUND THE SLEEVE. ANY CLUTCH IN ANY AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION IS BASICALLY JUST ALTERNATING LAYERS OF STEEL AND FRICTION MATERIAL, AND THEY'RE CLAMPED TOGETHER BY HYDRAULIC FLUID PRESSURE. NOW THIS IS AN EXAMPLE OF A FAILED CLUTCH. BASICALLY IT'S HAD TOO MUCH POWER PUSHED THROUGH IT, SO IT SLIPS. THAT SLIPPING CREATES HEAT, WHICH BURNS OFF ALL THE FRICTION SURFACE. YOU CAN REALLY TELL THE DIFFERENCE SIDE BY SIDE WITH A BRAND NEW CLUTCH. SO IN ANY AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION THERE ARE THREE DIFFERENT WAYS THAT YOU CAN INCREASE ITS HOLDING CAPACITY. NUMBER ONE, USE JUST A BETTER FRICTION MATERIAL. THESE ARE RAYBESTOS GPZ. NUMBER TWO, YOU CAN ACTUALLY INCREASE THE SURFACE AREA OF THE CLUTCH. THIS IS DONE BY ADDING ONE ADDITIONAL DISC IN THE CTWO AND TWO ADDITIONAL DISCS IN THE CTHREE PACK, AND THE THIRD THING YOU CAN DO IS JUST INCREASE THE FLUID PRESSURE THAT CLAMPS DOWN ON THOSE CLUTCH DISCS, PREVENTING THEM FROM GOING ANYWHERE. NOW THE NEXT THING FOR US IS THE TRANSFER CASE, BUT WE'VE GOT A COUPLE OF UPGRADES WE'RE GONNA DO INSIDE IT BEFORE IT GOES BACK IN THE TRUCK. OUR TRUCK USES A NEW PROCESS 263 XHD TRANSFER CASE, WHICH IS A VERY STRONG PIECE. IT'S MADE FROM MAGNESIUM, IT'S CHAIN DRIVEN, AND HAS A 2.72 TO ONE LOW RANGE. OVERALL IT'S A VERY STRONG PIECE, AND IT'LL HOLD UP TO ALL THE MECHANICAL ABUSE WE CAN THROW AT IT, EVEN WITH THE POWER UPGRADES OF THE ENGINE, BUT IT DOES HAVE AN ACHILLES HEEL, WHICH CAN WIPE OUT ALL THE BEARINGS IN THE CASE. THIS IS THE OIL PUMP, AND IT'S MADE FROM ALUMINUM, WHICH IS A HARDER MATERIAL THAN THE MAGNESIUM HOUSING, AND HERE'S THE PROBLEM. THESE FOUR LITTLE LUGS ACTUALLY INDEX IT INTO THE BACK OF THE CASE, BUT THEY'RE VERY THIN, AND OVER TIME THE OIL PUMP CAN ACTUALLY RATTLE BACK AND FORTH, WHICH CAN CUT A HOLE IN THE BACK OF THE HOUSING. NOW LUCKILY OURS HASN'T WORN OUT YET. THIS IS A PUMP UPGRADE KIT FROM MERCHANT AUTOMOTIVE. NOW IT WON'T FIX YOUR PROBLEM IF IT'S ALREADY WORN THROUGH THE CASE, BUT THE LUGS ARE SO MUCH WIDER THAT WHEN IT PROPERLY INDEXES INTO THE BACK OF THE CASE IT WON'T MOVE AROUND AND IT'LL PREVENT THE PROBLEM FROM EVER HAPPENING IN THE FIRST PLACE. THERE ARE A FEW T15 SCREWS THAT GET REMOVED, AND THE ORIGINAL PUMP HOUSING CAN BE PULLED AND SET ASIDE. I'LL CLEAN THE PUMP AND SCREWS WITH BRAKE CLEANER, AND SET BOTH PUMP GEARS INTO THE BODY. A LITTLE OIL WILL HELP WITH INITIAL LUBRICATION. THEN THE MERCHANT AUTOMOTIVE UPGRADED PUMP HOUSING CAN BE INSTALLED. THE PROVIDED THREAD LOCKER MAKES SURE THE SCREWS WON'T BACK OUT. THEN THE PUMP CAN BE REINSTALLED ONTO THE OUTPUT SHAFT AND LINED UP WITH THE PICKUP TUBE. NEXT IS THE RELUCTOR WHEEL, FOLLOWED BY THE BEARING AND A SNAP RING. I'LL CLEAN UP THE MATING SURFACES OF THE TRANSFER CASE. NOW WHEN YOU'RE DOING THIS YOU ACTUALLY DON'T WANT TO WEAR OFF THIS TEXTURED SURFACE CAUSE IT'LL ACTUALLY HELP THE SILICONE BITE IN AND MAKE A GOOD SEAL. AND APPLY SOME SILICONE SEALANT. THE REAR CASE SLIDES BACK ON WITH A FEW GENTLE TAPS.

THE REAR SNAP RING IS REENGAGED THROUGH THE ACCESS PORT, AND ALL THE FACTORY HARDWARE IS REINSTALLED.

(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT, GUESS HOW MANY QUARTS OUR NEW TRANSMISSION TAKES?

(LT)>> WE'RE BACK ON TRUCK TECH FINISHING UP THE DRIVETRAIN OF OUR SIX POINT SIX LITER DURAMAX. THIS IS STAGE TWO OF OUR UPGRADES. BASICALLY WE'RE GOING FROM 370 HORSEPOWER AT THE WHEELS TO WHAT WE HOPE WILL BE WELL OVER 550, ALL THANKS TO A BIGGER TURBO, A BUILT TRANS, AND SOME CUSTOM TUNING.

THE LAST UPGRADE WE'RE GONNA DO TO OUR DRIVELINE IS THIS TRANSMISSION REAR HOUSING SUPPORT BRACE THAT WE PICKED UP FROM MERCHANT AUTOMOTIVE. NOW LUCKILY THEY COME POWDER COATED ORANGE TO MATCH THE REST OF OUR TRUCK, AND IT INSTALLS PRETTY EASILY. IT SLIDES INTO PLACE ON TOP OF THE TRANSMISSION AND IT'S SECURED WITH FOUR BOLTS ON THE TRANSMISSION SIDE, AND TWO ON THE TRANSFER CASE. THE REAR DRIVESHAFT SLIDES BACK INTO PLACE AND WE'RE MAKING SOME GOOD PROGRESS. ANYTIME YOU ADD MORE POWER THROUGH AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION IT'S GONNA GENERATE MORE HEAT IN THE FLUID. NOW THE FACTORY COOLER DOES AN OKAY JOB AT STOCK POWER LEVELS, BUT WE PLAN ON MORE THAN DOUBLING OUR HORSEPOWER OUTPUT. SO THE STOCK COOLER JUST ISN'T GONNA CUT IT. WE WENT TO PACIFIC PERFORMANCE ENGINEERING AND GRABBED THIS BOLT IN REPLACEMENT TRANSMISSION COOLER. NOW IT HAS 60 PERCENT MORE SURFACE AREA THAN THE STOCK COOLER, WHICH MEANS IT CAN PULL AN ADDITIONAL 20 TO 30 DEGREES OF TEMPERATURE OUT OF THE FLUID. NOW THIS WORKS PERFECT IF YOU'RE TOWING HEAVY LOADS, OR YOU'RE RACING, OR JUST OUT HAVING FUN. NOW WE CAN CONNECT THIS UP TO THE FACTORY TRANSMISSION COOLER LINES, BUT OURS HAD 200,000 MILES ON THEM AND THEY WERE ALREADY STARTING TO LEAK. PLUS THE NEW TRANSMISSION WILL HAVE JUST A LITTLE BIT MORE LINE PRESSURE. SO WE'RE NOT GONNA TAKE ANY CHANCES. WE WENT TO SCREAMIN' DIESEL PERFORMANCE AND PICKED UP THEIR TRANSMISSION COOLER LINE KIT. NOW THIS STUFF IS BASICALLY HYDRAULIC HOSE AND IT'S RATED TO JUST OVER 2,300 PSI. SO WE KNOW IT'S DEFINITELY GONNA HOLD UP AND IT WILL NEVER LEAK OR LEAVE US STRANDED. WE'LL GET STARTED BY PUTTING SOME FITTINGS INTO THE TRANSMISSION. THE ORING FITTINGS THREAD RIGHT INTO PLACE, AND I'LL SLIDE IN THE LINES BESIDE THE ENGINE, AND CONNECT THEM TO THE TRANSMISSION.

IT'S TIME TO GET THE TRUCK BACK ON THE GROUND. HEY JOHN, GIVE ME A HAND WOULD YA?

(JOHN)>> I'M RIGHT HERE.

(LT)>> ALL RIGHT, LET'S GET THIS HOOD OFF. THERE WE GO.

IT'S A RACE HOOD.

(JOHN)>> IT'S NOT!

(LT)>> THANKS BUDDY!

(JOHN)>> NO PROBLEM.

(LT)>> NEXT I'LL REMOVE THE GRILL. THE PPE UPPER BRACKET BOLTS INTO PLACE IN THE ORIGINAL HOLES UNDERNEATH THE HOOD LATCH, AND THE COOLER IS ATTACHED. NEXT THE LOWER BRACKET ATTACHES TO THE SUPPORT BEAM, AND THE HOSES CAN BE HOOKED UP. LASTLY MAKE SOME CONNECTIONS AT THE RADIATOR. NOW YOU WANT TO TALK WITH YOUR BUILDER ON WHAT TYPE OF FLUID TO PUT IN THE TRANSMISSION. FROM THE FACTORY THESE ALLISONS CALL FOR A DEX SIX. NOW THIS PARTICULAR TRANSMISSION, WITH THE TYPE OF CLUTCHES THAT ARE IN IT, WE'VE GOT TO RUN A DEX THREE, AND A WHOLE BUNCH OF IT. ALL IN WITH THE TRANSMISSION, THE LARGER COOLER, AND EXTRA CAPACITY PAN, OUR ALLISON IS GONNA TAKE 22 QUARTS OF FLUID. ALL RIGHT, YOU READY?

(NARRATOR)>> NEXT, WITH EVERYTHING TOPPED OFF, LT GETS HIS SHIFT TOGETHER.

(LT)>> WE'RE BACK ON TRUCK TECH, FINISHING UP SOME LAST MINUTE DETAILS ON OUR "SUPERMAX" DIESEL BUILD. THE REAR AXLE THAT CAME UNDERNEATH OUR TRUCK IS MORE THAN STRONG ENOUGH TO SUPPORT 500 HORSEPOWER. THAT'S NASTY! SO ALL WE'RE DOING IS CHANGING OUT THE FLUID. I'LL CLEAN UP THE MATING SURFACE, RINSE OUT THE HOUSING WITH BRAKE CLEANER, AND INSTALL A PPE CAST DIFFERENTIAL COVER. THE ALUMINUM HELPS DISSIPATE THE HEAT, AND IT HOLDS MORE FLUID. ALL TOLD WE NEED FOUR QUARTS. CHILDISH, I WAS THINKING OF SOME FUNNY JOKES I COULD PUT IN THERE. [ drill spinning ]

(LT)>> OUR ORIGINAL HITCH WAS LONG GONE, AND SINCE THIS IS A TRUCK AFTER ALL WE STILL NEED TO BE ABLE TO TOW WITH IT. WE WENT TO SUMMIT RACING AND PICKED UP THIS CLASS FOUR HITCH THAT BOLTS IN USING THE FACTORY HOLES. THE CLASS FOUR RATING MEANS WE CAN RUN UP TO 1,000 POUNDS OF TONGUE WEIGHT AND 10,000 POUNDS OF TRAILER, WHICH IS PROBABLY MORE THAN WE'D WANT TO HAUL WITH A SHORT WHEEL BASE TRUCK ANYWAY. WITH OUR RECEIVER FIRMLY ATTACHED TO THE TRUCK, WE NEED A WAY TO MAKE SURE OUR BALL MOUNT ISN'T GONNA DISAPPEAR ON US. SO WE WENT TO BOLT LOCK AND GRABBED A RECEIVER LOCK. IT WORKS WITH YOUR TRUCK'S IGNITION KEY. SIMPLY STICK IT IN AND GIVE IT A TWIST, AND IT'LL AUTOMATICALLY PROGRAM ITSELF TO YOUR TRUCK'S IGNITION KEY, AND THE SAME GOES FOR THEIR PADDLE LOCK, CABLE LOCK, AND OTHER LOCK PRODUCTS FOR ONE KEY CONVENIENCE. NOW IT'S MADE FROM STAINLESS STEEL AND IT'S WEATHERPROOF. PLUS THEY HAVE MODELS FOR ALL POPULAR TYPES OF TRUCKS. WELL THE TRUCK IS 100 PERCENT PUT BACK TOGETHER AND WE'RE READY TO FIRE IT UP. NOW WHEN WE INSTALLED THE TRANSMISSION WE FILLED UP THE FLUID TO THE LEVEL ON THE DIP STICK. NOW AS SOON AS WE FIRE UP THE ENGINE THAT'S GONNA CHANGE.

[ engine starts ]

(LT)>> WITH THE WHEELS OFF THE GROUND, I LIKE TO PUT THE TRUCK IN GEAR, LET THE WHEELS TURN, AND THE TRANSMISSION SHIFT A FEW GEARS. THEN USE THE BRAKES TO STOP IT AND SHIFT IT INTO REVERSE, AND LET IT TURN SOME MORE. THIS WILL PUMP FLUID THROUGH ALL THE CLUTCH PISTONS SO WE CAN GET AN ACCURATE FLUID LEVEL. OVERALL I'M PRETTY HAPPY, IT'S SOUNDING GOOD. IT TOOK A MINUTE FOR THE MOTOR TO CRANK UP JUST BECAUSE THIS IS A FRESH BUILD AND THERE'S AIR IN THE FUEL SYSTEM. NOW THE POWER STEERING'S WHINING JUST A LITTLE BIT, BUT IT'S PROBABLY LOW ON FLUID. WE'LL HAVE TO CHECK THE COOLANT AND EVERYTHING ELSE, BUT OVERALL WE'RE IN GOOD SHAPE. REMEMBER, ON AN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION YOU HAVE TO CHECK THE FLUID WITH THE TRUCK RUNNING. WELL RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE NOTCHES. NOW THE LAST THING THAT WE NEED TO DO IS RESET THE ADAPTIVE LEARNING IN THE TCM. BASICALLY THIS IS GONNA MAKE THE COMPUTER UNDERSTAND AND LEARN THE NEW TRANSMISSION. NOW AS FAR AS THIS TRUCK GOES IT'S DONE! SO THE NEXT TIME YOU GUYS SEE IT WE'LL BE OUT ON THE ROAD TEARING IT UP.

LAST TIME WE SHOWED YOU GUYS HOW A TURBO WORKS. BASICALLY EXHAUST ENTERS AND SPINS A TURBINE. THERE'S A SHAFT WITH A COMPRESSOR WHEEL MOUNTED ON THE OTHER SIDE. FRESH AIR GETS SUCKED IN AND FORCED INTO THE ENGINE, MAKING MORE POWER. THERE'S A WASTE GATE ON THE BACK THAT CONTROLS HOW MUCH EXHAUST ACTUALLY SPINS THE TURBINE CONTROLLING YOUR BOOST LEVEL. NOW LATELY TURBOS HAVE BEEN A VERY POPULAR POWER ADDER BECAUSE THEY'RE SIMPLE AND THERE'S NO PARASITIC DRAG ON THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE, BUT MANY PEOPLE JUST REPLACE THEM IF THERE'S EVER ANY PROBLEMS, AND REBUILD KITS REALLY AREN'T THAT EXPENSIVE. SO TODAY I'M GONNA SHOW YOU GUYS HOW TO TAKE ONE APART, WHAT'S INSIDE, AND SOME OF THE COMMON WEAR ITEMS. [ drill spinning ]

(LT)>> FIRST WE'LL REMOVE THE HEAT SHIELD AND THE AIR INTAKE HORN. NEXT WE CAN TAKE OFF THE WASTE GATE DIAPHRAGM, DISCONNECT THE VACUUM LINE, THE CCLIP, AND SOME BOLTS. NEXT THE COMPRESSOR COVER COMES OFF WITH A SERIES OF MORE BOLTS. THE TURBINE HOUSING IS HELD ON WITH A VBAND CLAMP. ONCE IT'S OFF, TAP THE HOUSING WITH A SOFT FACED HAMMER TO DISLODGE IT FROM THE CARTRIDGE. ALL WE'RE REALLY TRYING TO DO HERE IS USE THE TAPER OF THE CHISEL JUST TO SEPARATE THE TWO HALVES. THIS THING IS RUSTED TOGETHER, DOES NOT WANT TO COME APART.

NOW THE NEXT STEP FOR US IS TO REMOVE THE COMPRESSOR WHEEL FROM THE TURBINE SHAFT. NOW I ACTUALLY HAVE SEEN GUYS ON THE INTERNET, OF ALL PLACES, RECOMMEND YOU USE A SCREWDRIVER, JAM IT IN THE TURBINE WHEEL, AND USE IT TO HOLD IT STATIONARY WHILE YOU UNDO THE NUT. DON'T DO THAT, DON'T BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU READ ON THE INTERNET. A TURBO IS A PRECISION HIGH SPEED BALANCED PIECE OF MACHINERY, AND THESE ARE DELICATE WHEELS. SO DEFINITELY TREAT THEM WITH RESPECT. SECURE THE TURBINE WITH A 12 POINT SOCKET AND LOOSEN THE NUT ON THE OTHER SIDE. PULL OUT THE COMPRESSOR WHEEL AND GENTLY TAP OUT THE SHAFT, AND DON'T LET IT FALL ON THE GROUND. AFTER A FEW MORE SCREWS WE CAN ACCESS THE SEAL...

...BEARING RETAINER, THRUST WASHER, AND JOURNAL BEARING. WHEN YOU BUY A TURBO REBUILD KIT THESE ARE THE PARTS THAT YOU'LL GET, A JOURNAL BEARING, A THRUST WASHER, AND A COUPLE OF SEALS. NOW TYPICALLY A WHOLE KIT WILL COST LESS THAN $150 BUCKS VERSUS A WHOLE NEW TURBO AT WELL OVER $1,000. SO YOU CAN DEFINITELY SAVE SOME MONEY DOING IT YOURSELF. KEEPING UP WITH THE POWER DEMANDS OF TODAY'S TRUCKS AND SUV'S IS THIS YELLOW TOP AGM BATTERY FROM OPTIMA. NOW IF YOUR RIG HAS A WINCH, INVERTER, AFTERMARKET AUDIO, OR OTHER POWER HUNGRY ACCESSORIES, OPTIMA BATTERIES DELIVER ULTIMATE CRANKING POWER AND DEEP CYCLE CAPABILITIES OVER THE TRADITIONAL LEAD ACID BATTERIES, AND THEIR LINE OF 12 VOLT CHARGERS WILL HELP PROTECT, CONDITION, CHARGE, AND MAINTAIN YOUR INVESTMENT. LEARN MORE AT OPTIMA BATTERIES DOT COM. WE'VE SHOWN YOU IN THE PAST HOW TRACTION BARS CAN SOLVE DRIVELINE PROBLEMS ON LEAF SPRUNG TRUCKS, LIKE "PROJECT SUPERMAX". WELL BDS SUSPENSION JUST ANNOUNCED A NEW LINE OF TRACTION BAR TECHNOLOGY WITH THEIR PATENTED RECOIL TRACTION BARS. THE UNIQUE DESIGN FEATURES A DUAL STAGE COMPRESSION SPRING THAT'S EASILY ADJUSTABLE FOR RESISTANCE. PLUS THEY HAVE A FLOATING DESIGN THAT WON'T BIND UP LIKE MANY TRACTION BARS DO. THEY'RE BACKED BY BDS' NO FINE PRINT WARRANTY, AND THEY'LL EASILY BOLT ON TO MANY FULL SIZE TRUCKS. FIND YOUR APPLICATION AT BDS DASH SUSPENSION DOT COM. THANKS FOR WATCHING TRUCK TECH, WE'LL SEE YOU NEXT TIME.