Senior Silverado: Perfect Paint Prep

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY WE'RE DOING PERFECT PAINT PREP. THE GUYS ARE SHOWING YOU HOW AND WHY PREPAINT BODY WORK AND SURFACE PREP ARE THE TWO SECRETS TO ACHIEVING A KILLER PAINT JOB. IT'S ALL TODAY HERE ON TRUCK TECH.

(KEVIN)>> I'M SURE YOU'LL AGREE THAT WE MADE QUITE THE TRANSFORMATION ON THIS TRUCK.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO TRUCK TECH. TODAY WE'VE GOT OUR '93 CHEVY 1500 BACK IN THE SHOP. NOW THIS TRUCK HAS COME A LONG WAY FROM WHERE WE STARTED WITH IT. WE'VE DONE A LOT OF MAINTENANCE WORK, LOWERED IT DOWN, PUT IT ON SOME NICE TIRES AND WHEELS, DONE SOME RUST REPAIR, FIXED A COUPLE OF DOZEN DENTS AND DINGS,

AND WE'VE DONE SOME BODY WORK IN PREPARATION FOR A PAINT JOB. NOW TYPICALLY WHEN KEVIN DOES A PAINT JOB, ALL THE PREP WORK IS DONE, HE'S IN THE BOOTH AND

SPRAYING THE ACTUAL PAINT.

(KEVIN)>> AND AS IMPORTANT AS IT IS TO HAVE GOOD SPRAY TECHNIQUE, THE TRUTH IS PUTTING THE PAINT ON, SPRAYING THE PAINT IS THIS MUCH OF THIS MUCH WORK WHEN IT COMES TO GETTING A REALLY, GOOD, SOLID, LASER STRAIGHT PAINT JOB. SO TODAY WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU MORE ABOUT WHAT IT TAKES TO GET IT INTO THE BOOTH THAN ACTUALLY DOING THE FUN STUFF AND SPRAYING THE PAINT. SO LETS SEE WHAT WE'VE GOT. NOW OBVIOUSLY WE'VE DONE SOME WORK SINCE THE LAST TIME WE SHOWED YOU THIS TRUCK, PRIMARILY IN FIXING SOME DENTS. WHAT I CALL WHISKEY NICKS DOWN THE SIDE, AND THIS FILLER IS SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED TO STICK AND GO OVER TOP OF PAINT. AS LONG AS THE PAINT IS IN GOOD SHAPE AND PROPERLY ADHERED, WHICH BRINGS ME TO A POINT. WE'RE NOT DOING A RESTORATION ON THIS TRUCK. WE'RE DOING A PAINT JOB AND THERE'S A DISTINCT DIFFERENCE. SO WE'RE NOT STRIPPING TO BARE METAL. WE'RE FIXING WHAT'S THERE AND WE'RE GONNA BUILD A COATING ON TOP OF THAT. SO SPEAKING OF THAT, WE FOUND SOME OTHER DENTS. THERE'S A HOLE DRILLED HERE. WE WELDED IT UP, FILLED IT IN. THIS STRIPE THAT DIVIDED THE FACTORY TWO TONE, WELL WE HAD TO GRIND IT OFF CAUSE IT WAS ORIGINAL, IT WAS CRUSTY AND ROTTED ON. WHICH BRINGS YOU TO ANOTHER POINT. UNLESS YOU WANT TO SEE THAT WAVE DOWN THE SIDE, YOU'VE GOT TO LEVEL THAT. SO WE'RE GONNA BE USING A PRIMER/SURFACER ON TOP OF THAT AS WELL AS ALL OF THESE PLACES THAT WE FOUND AND FIXED. NOW THE ROCKER PANEL AND THE CAB CORNER, OBVIOUSLY WE DID SOME FILLER WORK IN THERE TO GET THAT TO WHERE IT LOOKS LIKE THERE HASN'T BEEN A REPAIR AT ALL, AND THAT WILL FIX NICELY. OVER HERE WE'VE GOT THE HOOD, CHECK IT OUT. NOW THE HOOD FITS THE OPENING PRETTY GOOD. THE GAPS ARE OKAY, AND IT LOOKS GREAT CAUSE IT'S A NICE COWL INDUCTION HOOD. BUT WE LOOKED AT IT A LITTLE BIT CLOSER, AND EVEN THOUGH OUT OF THE BOX IT LOOKED PERFECT, WHEN YOU LOOK HARD AT IT YOU COULD SEE A LITTLE BIT OF RIPPLES RIGHT AROUND THE EDGES. THAT'S JUST A PART OF THE STAMPING PROCESS. IT'S NOT A FAULT OF THE MANUFACTURER. AND SINCE WE'RE GOING WITH A DARK BLUE COLOR, IT'S GONNA REFLECT THOSE RIPPLES. SO WE'VE GOT TO PAY ATTENTION TO THAT, DO A LITTLE BIT OF PREP WORK, BLOCK IT, AND THEN IT'LL BE READY FOR PAINT.

(RYAN)>> AND EVEN I GOT MY HANDS DIRTY DOING A LITTLE BIT OF BODY WORK ON THIS THING. I SMOOTHED OUT THE TRANSITION IN BETWEEN THE WELDED ON ROLL PAN AND THE BED. I EVEN DID A LITTLE BIT OF DENT REPAIR ON THE BED SIDE. I'VE GOT TO TELL YOU IT WAS KINDA SATISFYING DOING A LITTLE BIT OF SHEET METAL WORK AND GETTING THAT BED SIDE BACK IN SHAPE. ALSO TOOK A LITTLE BIT OF FILLER AND FILLED IN THIS SEAM AROUND THE LICENSE PLATE RECESS. WE COULD HAVE LEFT IT ALONE AND IT PROBABLY WOULD HAVE BEEN OKAY, BUT IT LOOKS SMOOTHER AND MORE FINISHED THIS WAY.

AND WHERE THE SPOT WELDS ARE HOLDING THAT RECESS IN PLACE, WELL THEY WOULD SHOW THROUGH THE FINAL PAINT JOB IF WE DIDN'T DO A LITTLE BIT MORE BODY WORK. SO WE SPRAYED ON SOME FINISHING PUTTY, WIPED IT,

SANDED IT, AND GROUND IT DOWN SMOOTH SO IT LOOKS NICE AND FINISHED.

NOW OVER HERE ON THE BED SIDE, WELL WE STRIPPED THE MOLDING OFF, GROUND OFF ALL THE STUBBORN ADHESIVE, AND

NOW IT'S PREPPED FOR SOME PRIMER/SURFACE.

(KEVIN)>> SO BEFORE WE GET TO WORK LETS TALK ABOUT PAINT. BECAUSE AFTER ALL, BEFORE YOU GET IN THE BOOTH, YOU'VE

GOT TO KNOW WHAT COLOR YOU'RE GONNA PAINT AND YOU'VE GOT TO KNOW HOW MUCH PAINT YOU'RE GONNA NEED. AND THIS IS AFTER ALL OUR LOW BUCK SPORT TRUCK, SO WE'RE KEEPING TO A BUDGET. NOW WE THOUGHT OUR WAY THROUGH THIS AND WENT TO SUMMIT RACING BECAUSE THEIR PAINT IS COST EFFECTIVE AND IT LOOKS REALLY GOOD. WE DECIDED ON THIS BOMBER BLUE COLOR. WHY, WELL BECAUSE IT'S ALMOST AN EXACT MATCH TO THE DARK BLUE COLOR ON OUR TRUCK, WHICH IS THE DOMINANT COLOR ON OUR TRUCK, WHICH MEANS THAT THE DOOR JAMS ARE DARK BLUE, BEHIND THE BED IS DARK BLUE, INSIDE THE TAILGATE IS DARK BLUE. SO WE'RE NOT GONNA HAVE TO BLOW THIS WHOLE THING APART

AND DO A COMPLETE COLOR CHANGE PAINT JOB, WHICH BY THE WAY AT LEAST DOUBLES YOUR LABOR AND PROBABLY DOUBLES IF NOW MORE YOUR MATERIALS COSTS.

SO THIS IS GOING TO SAVE US MONEY AND GET US THE RESULT THAT WE WANT ON THE CHEAP. SO IF YOU'RE ASKING YOURSELF, THIS IS A SHOW ABOUT A PAINT JOB. WHY ARE YOU TEARING THE TRUCK APART? WELL THE REASON WHY IS BECAUSE YOU HAVE TO CONSIDER THAT THIS TRUCK WAS PAINTED FROM THE FACTORY WITH

NONE OF THIS STUFF ON. SO WE'RE DISASSEMBLING TO CREATE THE ILLUSION. AND YES I TALK ABOUT CREATING ILLUSIONS A LOT BUT

TO CREATE THE ILLUSION THAT THIS IS A FACTORY AND ORIGINAL PAINT JOB AND NOT JUST SOMETHING THAT SOMEBODY'S MASKED UP ALL THE SEAMS. OKAY THE MAGNET HELPS YOU KEEP FROM DROPPING THIS

FASTENER IN BEHIND THAT BRACE BECAUSE IF IT DOES, IT'LL GET WEDGED IN THERE, YOU'LL NEVER GET IT BACK.

STRIPPING OFF THE BELT LINE WEATHER STRIP AND THE WEATHER SEAL ITSELF GIVES YOU ACCESS TO THE PAINTED AREAS BEHIND THEM, AND IT'S EASY TO DO. NOW THIS GLASS GUIDE, WELL IT'S A DIFFERENT STORY. IT'S REVITED IN PLACE, BUT HERE'S A TRICK TO WHERE YOU CAN FOOL THE PAINT INTO GOING IN BEHIND IT. JUST TAKE A PUT A LITTLE PRESSURE ON IT AND PRY IT OPEN. AND SOME OF THESE TRICKS COME FROM A CAREER OF AUTO BODY REPAIR. SOME OF THEM YOU CAN FIGURE OUT ON YOUR OWN JUST THROUGH COMMON SENSE. NOW THE BACK END OF THE CHANNEL RUN COMES OUT OF THE CHANNEL. THIS ALLOWS YOU TO RAISE THE WINDOW AND NOT HAVE THE WEATHER SEAL IN THE WAY. AND AGAIN YOU CAN GET TO ALL THE PAINTED SURFACES EASY.

(RYAN)>> NOW WHEN YOU'RE DONE MESSING WITH THE POWER WINDOWS, GO AHEAD AND DISCONNECT THE BATTERY. WITH THE DOOR PANEL OFF AND THE DOORS OPEN, WELL IT'S JUST GONNA DRAIN THE BATTERY WITH THE DOME

LIGHT STAYING ON.

(KEVIN)>> REMOVING THINGS LIKE MIRRORS AND DOOR HANDLES DON'T COST ANY MORE THAN TIME AND GIVE YOU A MORE PROFESSIONAL JOB.

OKAY HERE'S A TIME SAVING TIP ON THESE TRUCKS. IF YOU JUST TAKE THE BOLTS OUT, LEAVE THE RODS ATTACHED, WHEN YOU'RE MASKING YOU CAN HAVE IT STAND OUT LIKE THAT. THE PAINT WILL BLOW IN AROUND IT, IT WON'T BRIDGE, AND IT'LL LOOK PROFESSIONAL LIKE YOU REMOVED THAT HANDLE, BUT YOU DIDN'T HAVE TO GO THROUGH ALL THAT TIME OF TAKING THE HANDLE OFF AND THE WHOLE INNER ASSEMBLY. IT STAYS IN. NOW IF YOU'VE INVESTED LIKE WE HAVE ON BRAND NEW WHEELS AND TIRES, THE LAST THING YOU WANT ON THEM IS OVERSPRAY. SO DO YOURSELF A FAVOR AND REMOVE THEM. IT'LL ALSO ALLOW YOU TO PULL THE BED BACK SINCE WE'VE GOT TO GET PRIMER/SURFACER ON THE BACK SIDE OF THOSE CAB CORNERS, PERFECT.

(RYAN)>> GIVE IT SOME ROOM.

(ANNOUNCER)>> WHEN WE COME BACK, IT'S MORE SURFACE PREP AND THEN WE'RE APPLYING THE PRIMER.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO TRUCK TECH. WELL WE'VE GOT OUR CHEVY 1500 DISASSEMBLED ENOUGH SO WHERE WE HAVE ACCESS TO ALL THE HARD TO REACH AREAS AND WE'VE DONE SOME PREP WORK TO OUR NEW PLASTIC PARTS LIKE OUR SPORT MIRRORS AND OUR REPLACEMENT GRILL. NOW RATHER THAN SPEND ABOUT AN HOUR WITH A SCUFFING PAD WEARING DOWN MY FINGER TIPS TRYING TO GET IN ALL THESE HARD TO REACH AREAS, PREPPING IT FOR PAINT. WELL I KINDA TOOK THE EASY WAY OUT AND TOOK ADVANTAGE OF OUR EXTRA CAPACITY MEDIA BLASTING CABINET, OUR BLAST IT ALL. NOW I JUST TURNED THE AIR PRESSURE DOWN ENOUGH TO PROFILE THE PLASTIC AND GIVE THE PAINT

SOMETHING TO STICK TO. SO THESE PARTS ARE READY AND OUR TRUCK'S JUST ABOUT READY FOR PRIMER, BUT WE'RE NOT QUITE READY TO SPRAY JUST YET.

(KEVIN)>> NOW THE FIRST TYPE OF PRIMER WE'RE GONNA BE USING ON THIS TRUCK IS A HIGH BUILD SANDABLE PRIMER. BUT THE WORD PRIMER ITSELF GETS MISUSED ALL THE TIME. SO WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU SOMETHING THAT GIVES YOU A PRETTY GOOD EXPLANATION OF THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF PRIMER AND HOW THEY'RE USED, CHECK IT OUT. SUBSTRAIT IS THE TECHNICAL NAME FOR THE SURFACE THAT YOU'RE WORKING WITH. IT'S ALUMINUM OR STEEL, WHICH IS TYPICALLY BATHED IN AN ETCH PRIMER. IN OUR CASE WE'RE USING AN EPOXY PRIMER. AFTER THE EPOXY IS A HIGH BUILD PRIMER/SURFACER, WHICH IS DESIGNED TO BE SANDED AND LEVELED TO A FLAT SURFACE. ONCE YOU'VE ACHIEVED THAT, A PRIMER/SEALER GIVES YOU A SINGLE SMOOTH COAT FOR YOUR COLOR COATS TO SIT ON, WHICH IN OUR CASE ARE FOLLOWED BY A CLEAR COAT, WHICH GIVES YOU ALL THE SHININESS. ALL THE PAINT PROTECTION, AND ALL THE U/V SCREENING IN A BASE COAT CLEAR COAT SYSTEM. NOW WE'VE GOING TO DEVIATE FROM THAT JUST A LITTLE BIT BY INSTEAD OF EPOXY ON THE METAL, WE'RE GONNA GO WITH DTM, OR DIRECT TO METAL, HIGH BUILD PRIMER/SURFACER SINCE WE'VE GOT SOME BARE METAL AREAS HERE NEXT TO THE FILLER WORK AND THE BODY WORK. BUT YOU KNOW WE'VE ALSO GOT THESE UNPREPPED AREAS, SHINY PAINT, AND AS YOU KNOW, IT AIN'T GONNA STICK

UNLESS IT'S PREPPED. BY THE WAY, THESE ARE THE PSHEETS THAT YOU CAN DOWNLOAD FROM THE SUMMIT RACING WEBSITE THAT SHOW YOU EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT HOW TO USE THESE PRODUCTS. EVEN PROPER PREP TECHNIQUES. SO THESE ARE A GREAT IDEA TO HAVE AND A MUST HAVE RESOURCE. SO BEFORE WE CAN SPRAY ON THAT HIGH BUILD PRIMER/SURFACER WE'VE GOT A LITTLE MORE WORK TO DO. I'VE SAID MANY TIMES THERE ARE ONLY TWO TYPES OF ADHESION WITH PAINT AND PRIMER, MECHANICAL VERSUS CHEMICAL. HERE WE'RE DEALING WITH MECHANICAL ADHESION, SO WE HAVE TO SAND IT. EVEN THE AREAS THAT AREN'T GONNA COME INTO DIRECT CONTACT WITH THE MAIN COATS OF PRIMER/SURFACER, WELL YOU HAVE TO PREP THEM. OUR FLAKY PAINT ON OUR EDGES, WELL

IT GETS FEATHERED OUT. WE CAN GET AWAY WITH THIS BECAUSE WE'VE DONE ENOUGH

TEST ON IT TO REALIZE THAT ITS STUCK GOOD ENOUGH TO FEATHER IN. THE GRADUAL TAPER BETWEEN THE LAYERS LETS YOU KNOW THAT IT'S STUCK AND IT'S SAFE TO PRIME OVER TOP OF IT. WHEN YOU'RE PREPPING TO PRIME A VEHICLE YOU HAVE TO THINK LIKE THE OVERSPRAY'S A RENEGADE. YOU'VE GOT TO THINK PAST YOUR DAMAGE SO YOUR PRIMER HAS SOMETHING TO STICK ON THAT YOU CAN FEATHER OUT INTO THE PAINT. NOW BEFORE YOU SPRAY ANYTHING, EVERYTHING'S GOT TO BE CLEANED OFF, STARTING WITH COMPRESSED AIR BLOWING THE DUST OUT OF THE CREVICES. THEN FOLLOWING UP WITH A SOLVENT WIPE DOWN. WE'RE USING DUPLICOLOR'S PREPAINTING PREP, AND IT WORKS GREAT TO ONLY GET THE REST OF THE DUST ON THE SURFACE OUT, BUT ALSO TO INSURE THAT WE HAVE NO OTHER TYPES OF CONTAMINATION BEFORE WE SPRAY OUR EXPENSIVE COATINGS DOWN THAT MIGHT CAUSE DELAMINATION. NOW THAT EVERYTHING'S CLEAN AND DRY, WE STILL HAVE SOME MASKING TO DO. AND EVEN THOUGH SOME DISASSEMBLY HAS HAPPENED,

WE'RE COVER UP AREAS THAT WE DON'T WANT THE OVERSPRAY TO SIT ON JUST BECAUSE WE DON'T WANT TO CLEAN IT OFF LATER. NOW YOU DON'T NECESSARILY NEED MASKING CART TO GET THIS JOB DONE.

BUT IF YOU PLAN ON DOING THIS MORE THAN ONCE, IT MAY

BE SOMETHING YOU MIGHT WANT TO INVEST IN. WE GOT OURS FROM MATCO TOOLS. NOW MASKING UNDER THE HOOD AND OF COURSE THINGS LIKE THE WINDSHIELD, IT JUST KEEPS YOU FROM HAVING TO CLEAN OVERSPRAY OFF DOWN THE ROAD. ONCE YOUR OVERSPRAY DRIES AND CURES, IT'S REALLY DIFFICULT TO REMOVE. IF YOU DON'T HAVE A PAINT SHAKER, HAVE YOUR JOB OR

STORE SHAKE THE PAINT FOR YOU, ESPECIALLY WITH PRIMER/SURFACERS BECAUSE THE SOLIDS, OR THE TALC THAT'S IN THE PRIMER/SURFACE, CAN SETTLE TO THE BOTTOM AND IT'S VERY DIFFICULT TO STIR UP, EVEN WITH A STIR STICK. PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO YOUR MIX RATIOS AND CROSS REFERENCE YOUR NUMBERS MAKING SURE THAT YOU'RE

USING THE CORRECT CATALYST FOR THE MATERIAL YOU'RE USING BECAUSE IT'LL BREAK YOUR HEART WHEN YOU DON'T. IT WON'T CURE, IT WON'T DRY, AND YOU'VE GOT TO WIPE IT OFF AND START ALL OVER AGAIN. THAT'S NO FUN AT ALL.

ONCE YOU'VE STRAINED YOUR PRIMER INTO THE CUP.

NOW COMES THE FUN PART, YOU GET TO SPRAY. WE'RE USING A MATCO SPRAY GUN WITH A ONE POINT SIX

FLUID TIP, WHICH IS TYPICAL FOR A HIGH BUILD PRIMER/SURFACER. IF YOU'RE USING POLYESTER, YOU MIGHT NEED TO GO WITH A LARGER ORIFICE, BUT THIS GUN WORKS GREAT FOR THIS DTM, OR DIRECT TO METAL, PRIMER/SURFACER. NOW WHAT THAT MEANS IS THAT IT'LL STICK VERY WELL IF WE SANDED THROUGH THE BARE METAL, BUT IT WILL ALSO STICK WELL TO OUR PROPERLY PREPPED SURFACES, LIKE OUR PAINT

TRANSITIONS AND OUR BODY WORK.

(ANNOUNCER)>> AFTER THE BREAK IT'S GUIDE COATING 101, STAY TUNED.

(KEVIN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO TRUCK TECH. WELL OUR LOW BUCK SPORT TRUCK IS SHAPING UP AND THE HIGH BUILD PRIMER/SURFACER THAT WE SPRAYED ON OUR BODY WORK IS READY FOR THE NEXT STEP, WHICH IS BLOCKING, AND THEN FINALLY GETTING IT READY FOR THE FINAL PAINT JOB. BUT BEFORE WE GET STARTED, THERE'S A FEW TOOLS I WANTED TO TALK TO YOU ABOUT. WHEN YOU'RE BLOCKING IT REALLY HELPS TO HAVE A VARIETY OF SANDING BOARDS TO FIT INTO THE DIFFERENT CREVICES AND CONTOURS OF THE BODY THAT YOU'RE WORKING ON. FOR INSTANCE, THIS LONG GUYS IS PERFECT FOR FLAT PANELS, IT'S GOT A NICE HARD FOOT, AND IT'S VERY FIRM. WE'VE GOT A TEAR DROP SHAPE, SMALLER BLOCK IS FIRM, THIS ONE'S FLEXIBLE.

WE'VE GOT A ROUND BLOCK, WE'VE GOT THESE SOFT SANDERS THAT HAVE A VARIETY OF DIFFERENT SHAPES MOLDED INTO THEM THAT YOU CAN USE ON THE DIFFERENT STYLE LINES OF THE VEHICLE. FOR INSTANCE, THIS STYLE LINE HERE, YOU DON'T WANT TO BLOCK IT FLAT. YOU WANT TO RETAIN IT, YOU WANT TO RECREATE IT AS CLOSELY AS POSSIBLE TO THE FACTORY PANELS. NOW WHEN WE'RE BLOCK THIS IS THE LAST STAGE OF BODY WORK. WE'RE STILL SHAPING, SO WE'RE GONNA GO PRETTY

AGGRESSIVE ON OUR SAND PAPER. WE'RE GONNA USE 180 GRIT ON ALL OF OUR SANDING BOARDS. BEFORE WE START SANDING WE'VE GOT TO DO SOME GUIDE COATING, AND I'LL SHOW YOU WHAT THAT'S ABOUT. A GUIDE COAT DOES WHAT IT SAYS. IT GUIDES YOU INTO CREATING A FLAT SURFACE BY PROVIDING A CONTRASTING COLOR THAT YOU SAND THROUGH AND REVEAL

IMPERFECTIONS UNDERNEATH IT.

I LIKE THE DRY GUIDE COAT ALTHOUGH A LOT OF PEOPLE USE THE SPRAY GUIDE COATS IN THE SPRAY CANS. PERSONALLY THE DRY GUIDE COAT DOESN'T INTERFERE, IT DOESN'T INTRODUCE ANOTHER CHEMICAL INTO THE PAINT SYSTEM, AND THERE BY FOR ME, AT LEAST IN MY PREFERENCE AND IN MY MIND, IT'S A LITTLE BIT SAFER TO DO. I PREFER TO SAND BLOCK DRY, SO THIS GOES HAND IN HAND WITH THE WAY THAT I'VE FIGURED OUT

HOW TO DO THIS BEST. NOW SAFETY FIRST, REMEMBER THESE CHEMICALS ARE STILL ACTIVE FOR 90 DAYS, AND OURS WASN'T SPRAYED THAT LONG AGO. I'M GONNA START OUT WITH 180 GRIT ON A LONG BOARD SOFT SANDER. USING A LINEAR TECHNIQUE WITH A SLIGHT XPATTERN IN MY SANDER, I'M TRAVELING WITH THE SANDING BOARD SO I DON'T DIG HOLES. YOUR SURFACE, TO A CERTAIN EXTENT, DICTATES HOW FAST YOU CAN SAND. AND RIGHT AWAY YOU SEE THE VALUE OF A GUIDE COAT. THE DARK SPOTS ARE LOW SPOTS, WHERE IT'S LIGHTER WELL IT'S LEVELED AND IT'S FLAT. SO SIMPLY BLOCK YOUR GUIDE COAT UNTIL IT'S GONE AND THEORETICALLY YOUR PANEL'S PERFECTLY FLAT. WHEN YOU'RE SANDING AS AGGRESSIVELY AS WE ARE WITH A 180 GRIT, ONCE YOUR GUIDE COAT IS GONE, IF YOU HAVEN'T BURNED THROUGH, WELL THEN YOU CAN MOVE UP TO THE NEXT GRIT OF SAND PAPER. TO DO THAT YOU JUST REGUIDE COAT AND MOVE ON TO THE NEXT STEP. WE'VE GOT AN AWFUL LOT OF FLAT SURFACES TO BLOCK BEFORE WE'RE TO THAT STAGE YET. HERE YOU CAN CLEARLY SEE THE XPATTERN THAT I'M USING TO SAND. THIS ALLOWS ME TO USE ONLY THE EDGE OF THE BLOCK, WHICH I KNOW IS TRUE AND FLAT TO LEAD THE SAND PAPER AND TO HELP CREATE A FLAT SURFACE FOR THE PAINT TO GO ON. GUYS THIS IS THE IMPORTANT STEP. THIS IS WHAT MAKES YOUR PAINT JOB SLICK, SMOOTH, AND SHINNY. SO DON'T COMPROMISE ON THE TIME THAT YOU SPEND BLOCKING, IT'S VERY, VERY IMPORTANT. NOW I'M GUIDE COATING AGAIN BECAUSE I'M HAPPY WITH THE BODY WORK. I'VE GOT ENOUGH PRIMER/SURFACER ON THERE WHERE I HAVEN'T BLOCK THROUGH WITH 180, WHICH TELLS ME THAT IT'S READY TO FINAL SAND. MOVE UP TO 320 GRIT, WHICH IS OUR FINAL SAND AND PREP FOR PAINT. SO ALL WE DO IS REPEAT THIS PROCESS TIMES THE REST OF THE 10 PANELS ON THE TRUCK.

(KEVIN)>> HEY WELCOME BACK.

WELL NOW THAT ALL THE HARD PREP WORK IS DONE GUESS WHAT, MORE HARD WORK, THE PAINT JOB. YES IT'S A FUN PART BUT DON'T KID YOURSELF, IT'S HARD WORK. WE'RE DOING THIS IN TWO SESSIONS. THE MAIN PART OF THE TRUCK BODY IS IN THE BOOTH, THE BED'S PULLED BACK FOR ACCESS, THE TAILGATE'S LAYING FLAT. SO ONCE WE GET THAT UP TO COLOR AND CLEAR COATED, WE'LL PULL THAT OUT OF THE BOOTH, GET THIS OTHER SESSION IN, COWL INDUCTION HOOD, THE BUMPER, AND THE GRILL. AND ONCE WE'RE DONE HAVE A NICE PROFESSIONAL JOB, WE'LL PUT IT BACK TOGETHER, FINALLY SEE WHAT IT LOOKS. FIRST WE'VE GOT A LITTLE BIT OF HOUSE CLEANING TO DO, MAKE SURE OUR SURFACE IS PERFECT FOR THAT PAINT. A FINAL WIPE DOWN WITH A SOLVENT GIVES YOU ONE LAST OPPORTUNITY TO CHECK YOUR WORK. FOLLOW THAT WITH A TACK RAG, AND THEN FINALLY WE CAN GET TO SHOOT SOME COLOR, STARTING WITH SOME SEALER, AND MAKE THIS TRUCK LOOK NEW AGAIN. AND AFTER ALL OF THAT I'M SURE YOU'LL AGREE THAT WE MADE QUITE THE TRANSFORMATION ON THIS TRUCK. BETWEEN THE LOWERED STANCE, NEW WHEELS AND TIRES, SHAVED TAILGATE, ROLL PAN, SPORT MIRRORS, COWL INDUCTION HOOD, MONOCHROMATIC LOOK ON THE FRONT WITH THE UPDATED GRILL AND PAINTED BUMPER. MAN THIS THING TRULY DOES LOOK LIKE A SPORT TRUCK.

AND SPEAKING OF LOW BUCK, THAT'S THE NAME OF THE PROJECT AND WE'VE GOT LESS THAN $600 DOLLARS IN ALL THE

MATERIALS TO CREATE THIS PAINT JOB.

NOW KEEP IN MIND WE DIDN'T ADD IN OUR LABOR, JUST LIKE YOU GUYS WOULDN'T IF YOU WERE DOING THIS PROJECT AT HOME. SO NOW AS COOL AS THIS COWL INDUCTION HOOD LOOKS, IT'S UP TO US TO CREATE A SPORT TRUCK AND PUT SOMETHING UNDER IT.

(RYAN)>> NOW LED LIGHTING TECHNOLOGY HAS ALLOWED US TO PUT LIGHTING WHERE YOU COULDN'T BEFORE WITH A NORMAL INCANDESCENT BULB, LIKE IN THE CASE OF THESE SEAL PLACE FROM LMC TRUCK. NOW THESE ARE OBVIOUSLY FOR CHEVY TRUCKS FROM 1967 TO 1972. NOW INSTALLATION IS PRETTY STRAIGHT FORWARD, ESPECIALLY IF YOU GO FOR THE OPTIONAL COURTESY SWITCH THAT INSTALLS EASILY AND WILL TURN THE LED ON ANYTIME YOU OPEN THE DOOR. SO IF YOU WANT TO ADD A LITTLE FLASH TO YOUR TRUCK, CHECK OUT THESE LED THRESHOLD PLATES FROM LMC.

(KEVIN)>> AMERICAN POWERTRAIN IS ALL OVER THE TREND OF THROWING A T-56 MANUAL TRANSMISSION IN YOUR C-10 PICK UP SO MUCH TO THE POINT THAT THEY'VE GOT A COMPLETE INSTALLATION KIT FOR YOU. THE KIT SHIPS WITH A DRIVESHAFT, WITH THE ADAPTER PLATE, AND A TRANSMISSION CROSS MEMBER WITH A HEAVY DUTY ISOLATOR. YOU'VE GOT EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO GET YOUR SPEEDOMETER WORKING RIGHT, ALL THE HARDWARE YOU NEED. HECK EVEN A REVERSE LIGHT HARNESS, AND YOU GET A SHIFT KNOB THAT SHOWS EVERYBODY THAT YOU NOW HAVE A SIX SPEED IN YOUR TRUCK.

NOW ONE OF THE MAGIC THINGS ABOUT THIS KIT IS THAT THE

ADAPTER PLATE ALLOWS YOU TO BOLT UP TO YOUR EXISTING BELL HOUSING. AND IF YOUR TRUCK IS MANUAL, WELL YOU CAN USE YOUR EXISTING SHIFT LINKAGE AS WELL. IF YOU HAVE AN AUTOMATIC TRUCK, WELL YOU CAN USE THE OPTIONAL HYDRAULIC THROWOUT BEARING, WHICH GIVES YOU DECREASED PEDAL EFFORT AND INCREASED DRIVABILITY. THESE KITS ARE AVAILABLE WHEREVER AMERICAN POWERTRAIN PRODUCTS ARE SOLD OR AMERICAN POWERTRAIN DOT COM.

(RYAN)>> NOW EVERY ENGINE DEALS WITH CRANK CASE VAPORS AND THE OIL THAT GOES WITH IT. BUT SOMETIMES UNDER HARD USE OR IN HIGH PERFORMANCE APPLICATIONS IT CAN BECOME EXCESSIVE AND YOU GET OIL COMING OUT OF THE BREATHER AND ALL OVER THE VALVE COVER, AND IT MAKES AN OILY MESS.

AND IF THAT'S THE CASE WITH YOUR ENGINE, YOU NEED TO CHECK OUT THE OIL CONTROL KIT FROM SUMMIT RACING. NOW THE KIT INCLUDES A PAIR OF BAFFLED BREATHERS THAT ATTACH TO THE SUPPLIED RUBBER HOSE THAT GETS PLUMBED INTO THE BREATHER EQUIPPED OIL CATCH TANK THAT YOU CAN SIMPLY DRAIN THE OIL FROM EVERY SO OFTEN.

SO FOR LESS THAN $100 BUCKS YOU CAN KEEP YOUR CRANK CASE OIL VAPORS UNDER CONTROL WITH THIS GOOD LOOKING KIT FROM SUMMIT RACING. THANKS FOR WATCHING TRUCK TECH, SEE YOU NEXT TIME.