Project: LX - Mustang Heads, Intake & Nitrous

It's not a budget pony anymore. Last time we made our 92 Fox body ready for a horsepower hike by upgrading the clutch suspension brakes and rebuilding the rear end. Now it's time to pull out the stock.

Hey, welcome again to the horsepower shop. We're just finishing up a compression check on our 92 Mustang

using this trick digital compression recorder from Matco. This thing reads and records all the data on its own microprocessor so you don't have to. Now, all of our cylinders are measuring about the same pressure. Motors only got about 45,000 on it. So it's ready for a serious assault of horsepower. Our artillery came from trick flow and it includes this cam shaft with a larger lift and duration.

A set of 16 rocker arms with the correct length push rods to match

a set of twisted wedge aluminum cylinder heads and this 50 street intake. Now there are other bits and pieces we'll show you as we go and just like us, you can order this whole kit straight from summit

with all the fluids drained from the motor. We can remove the fan and radiator

followed by the condenser

and then the front accessories.

Here's a little word of advice for you. Don't unhook your ac lines from your compressor, just unbolt the bracket, slide the compressor forward and lay it on the fender. That way you don't have to worry about getting the system charged at the end.

Next, we can remove the water pump,

the distributor.

And after that, the upper intake,

we use this little disconnect tool to loosen the fuel lines before removing the lower intake.

Now we can remove the headers

and the cylinder heads.

Now back up front, the balancer can come off,

followed by the timing cover

and the timing said,

finally, we pull out the stock camshaft,

but now we got the room under here. It's a good time to remove the stock motor mounts and install these urethane replacements from energy suspension. Now, these are gonna be a lot more durable and stronger than our stock pieces.

After voting them, we can raise the motor with our floor jack and use the original hardware to install the new ones.

While we have the clearance on the other side, we can install a new steering shaft that came from maximum motor sports.

The first new part from our trick flow kit is this hydraulic roller cam shaft that measures 221 on the intake 225 on the exhaust side, both at 50 thousands. Now the valve lift is

499 and 5, 10 with our 1.6 rockers. This should give us pretty good idle and strong mid range power from our aftermarket heads and intake.

Our kit came with this billet, double roller timing set that features this roller I thrust bearing to keep the cam from walking out of the block.

Yeah, but notice how we had to counter sync the bowl toes in this cam thrust plate in order to clear it.

Now we can install our upper sprocket and chain straight up for best all around performance.

The reason for agreeing the C

A is to check its position inside the engine and trick flow recommends this one be installed at a 108 degree intake center line

which is the point of max lift on the intake low.

We can check this by first finding true top dead center for the number one piston.

Then check the number one intake lobe at 50,000 before max left

looks like 57

and after

155 split the difference and we have 106, which is in the ballpark.

Now, if you're not up to speed on this process, don't sweat it. Your cam comes with instructions that'll take you through all the steps

next, using a new gasket and seal. We can reinstall the stock timing cover

and the harmonic balances.

After pres soaking them in motor oil, our new hydraulic roller lifters can drop in next,

followed by these locating plates that are often referred to as dog bones.

And finally, the spider hold down.

And just in case you're wondering why they call these aluminum heads twisted wedge. I'm going to try to show you

on a typical wedge design. The valves are perfectly aligned or parallel, but the twisted part of these heads turns the valves to enshroud them from the salon

walls for better flow. Also, the spark plugs move closer to the cylinder for maximum combustion. Now, this tight figure eight design of the combustion chamber will bump our compression ratio at about nine and a quarter to one which is still safe for pump gas.

The trick flow kit came with a complete gasket set

and new head bolts you need to coat with silicone.

Now, after installing the guide plates and rocker studs, we can drop in our new harden push rods.

After installing the rocker arms, we can set up our valves

at a quarter, turn

past zero. Lash.

Now, of course, we still have more parts to install from the kit and even a surprise power adder, but we've got to take a break. So stay right where you're at.

Hey, we're back with more of our mustangs power build up and getting closer to turning this LX into an extra stout street strip machine.

Now, we've installed our twisted wedge heads, a new valve frame from trick flow

and reinstalled our BBK headers. Now we go ahead and install this new lower intake now it's a 50 street with a power range from idle to 5500 RPM. It's been computer designed with the excellent airflow distribution and velocity. Now, what that means is we'll get plenty of low end torque in addition to high end horsepower,

I'm putting the intake gaskets into place and on the front and rear of the block, they sent these court pieces. But I gotta tell you through experience a good old beat of silicone works a hell of a lot better.

We want to make sure we lower the intake carefully so we don't knock our silicone beads out of place or mis align a gasket

using new bolts. We got from Mr gasket. We first torque the intake to 18 ft pounds, then ret toque them at 22. That way we get an even distributed load and a perfect seal.

Then it makes sense to reinstall the front accessories, which is just a reverse of what you saw earlier. But

why

did you get all that?

Ok. We get to reuse the stock injectors and fuel rails, but we are swapping out the original fuel regulator for this adjustable piece from BBK

to give our motor a lot more tun ability.

The upper intake features these long staggered space runners that give the airflow a straighter shot to the cylinder heads that will also help out with low end torque, which the smaller displacement 30 twos really crave

the final component from our trick flow kit is this cast aluminum valve cover.

Of course, you want to install the driver side before the intake while you can still get to the bolts.

Well, with that, we can go ahead and reinstall our EGR plate and throttle body. But I got to tell you in between them goes this little gold plate.

Yeah, you guessed it. We're going to spray that motor later in the show.

The nitrous kit that we'll show you. The rest of later comes with longer bolts that you want to use with some anti CS.

Here's a tip for you when you install a new distributor like this bill tech from Excel, make a mark there on the manifold that lines up with this rotor porter.

That way when you install the cap,

you can turn your number one to line up with that mark and your timing is pretty well set.

I also notice we got plenty of movement to advance or retard the timing later on.

Hey, you might remember this coil of theirs we installed in our budget build up, but trick flow requires a new gasket style spark plug in this motor now. So we're gonna install these U grooves with a little bit of an I CS.

Finally, we're installing a set of their 8.8 wires

with making more power. Our LX is going to be hungry for more fuel. Now, we like this power plus in line pump from BBK. Now that thing flows 50 gallons an hour at 70 P si which will be plenty for our mustang, especially on nitrous.

The first thing we do is connect the kit's new feed line from the tank to the pump

and plummet to the stock fuel filter.

Then after installing the relays and wires from the kit, this thing's ready to pump more fuel.

Finally, after reinstalling the exhaust

and changing the oil using some royal purple synthetic.

We're ready to fire this thing up

after capping the nitrous plate, checking the timing and reconnecting the spout connector. It's time to see what this thing will do.

By the way, the last time we had this Mustang on the

dyno Jet,

we got about 220 horsepower at the rear wheel.

Now we're making about 56 more. Not bad, but there's never enough. What about a little nitrous after the break? Stay with us.

Hey, welcome back to the final phase of our mustangs power build up. We just made 276 horsepower at the tires. Thanks to that trick flow kit. Well, now time to bring it up to the next level with a shot of spray.

This kit came from Nitrous works and features a set of jets to bury the horsepower hit from 50 to 175 plus solar noise for nitrous and fuel delivery, plus all the electrical wiring and the hookups we need

in a mustang. You want to mount the bottle in the trunk facing forward

and also at an angle. So the siphon in here stays covered up with the liquid.

Next, we connect our nitrous line to the bottle

and run it into the car and under the door sill

and up in the firewall,

we're gonna start with the 50 horse jets.

Now, I can mount the fuel and nitrous

solenoids to the plate

after replacing the schrader valve with the fitting, run a line from it to the fuel

cleoid

and connect our nitrous line to it.

Cleoid, which runs to the other side of the nitrous plate.

Finally, this wide open throttle switch that makes sure the nitrous won't activate unless you're at full throttle,

you want to mount your activation switch inside the car and at easy reach. So we mounted ours here on the shifter plate. Now, for

wiring, one comes from a positive 12 volt source,

the other to the

solenoids.

The other two wires go from the

cleoid to the wide open throttle switch, followed by a ground up to this throttle body bolt.

Now, we didn't use a relay in this system. That's because those cleoid

don't pull much amperage.

The best part it installs in only a couple of hours. Now, we didn't use a purge kit either, but we can still check the system

just loosen the feed line,

go ahead and open the bottle

and we're good. Go ahead and shut it off.

Sound of success. We hope

it's a good idea to take out two degrees of timing for every 50 horses of Nitrous. You're adding

for this first run, though a couple of gallons of high octane race fuel will have the same effect.

All right, 32 more horsepower, 50 more foot pounds of torque.

And remember that's at the rear wheels. Now, we can swap our 50 horse jets for eighties and see what happens

this time, 30 more horses, 54 more footpaths.

Finally, even though the kid can take us up to 100 75 horse power. Our last run is going to be a 125 horse power hit with a couple of degrees of timing taken out to prevent detonation

in case you don't know it, detonation or detonation, as we say down South is caused by too much heat and pressure in the cylinder. Nitrous causes pressure which creates heat in the cylinder. And well, the only way to control it is by retarding the timing or adding high octane race fuel, which we did both of

its like 38 more horsepower that time, 63 ft pounds of torque. I'd say Nitrous works. We got a grand total of 100 more horsepower and 100 67 more foot pounds of torque before the spray.

Of course, it's that torque that gets you off the line. Speaking of that, we're gonna take you to the races right after the break.

Hey, welcome back to horse power and the sequel to a red hot racing event we took you to last year down in Cajun country.

It was billed as the Southern Sport Nationals. An event where N hr a sportsman racers and a pack of prod machines took center stage

and where super comp competitor Mike Coughlin was top sportsman winner in his class pro

mod racer. Mike Ashley ran a solid 617 to take his class crown.

Well, this weekend in Columbus, a second win could earn some extra cash and

this chunk of precious heavy metal. Yep, it's the northern sport nationals.

Both events were sponsored by Jags who wanted to give the sportsman racers their own exclusive race events

with a little pro bod thrown in for play.

Yeah, it's kind of neat because, um, you know, we're the stars of the show. The sportsman guys are the stars of the show.

John and Mike Coughlin are both dedicated sportsman racers while brother Troy has stepped up to the low six second Promide race.

It can be pretty hairy at times and it's got a big super charge on it. It's loud, it's fast. It's just exciting and it's a 67 mustang.

The competition is pretty awesome too

with heavy hitters like Joshua Hernandez and his ferocious 57 Chevy

and don't forget about number one qualifier, Mike Ashley who'd love to grab the second series win on this hot summer track

overpowering the track is gonna be, uh, you know,

a nemesis today. You know, you gotta be real careful. We're gonna be our deal is to get down the racetrack, you gotta get down and win and we don't want to overpower it.

Meanwhile, the event brought out a mind boggling mix of rides from super gas roadsters running on those delay boxes

to get this a turbo charge, top sportsman import that goes in the Sixes and most people can't believe that this is a 329 inch Toyota

going in the six second range of 200 miles an hour. It's pretty impressive.

Looks like Bruno's Turner needs a big tune up before he's ready for a six second pass.

Meanwhile, Mike Coughlin was passing his Super

Cup competition

up to the finals when he missed his shot at a double win by a few thousands.

Well, his brother Troy made it to the pro

mod semi

finals before going down.

So the pro

mod showdown was to be Ashley versus Hernandez

Mustang versus Chevy

and the Chevy brakes as Ashley sails to an easy win

and the coveted two race trophy.

I'm proud of my team. They did a great job. I'm proud to have this trophy. Look at this thing. This thing's awesome. I've been saying like, you know, the NH A wallies are real nice

but uh force couldn't give me 20 of his for one of these man. This thing is special and Uh

And I'm glad that we were able to do it.

So here's something that might get you. Chevy guys pumped up for your next trip to the track. It's a high volume oil pump from Moroso that's designed to fit eight and a quarter inch small block pants

made from bill of aluminum with larger passages for increased flow.

And here's something you'll like. The spur gear pump uses the stock mounting stud and pump shaft. Plus this bottom feed design eliminates the need for a pickup. If you'd like to pick one up for your car, you'll just have to pump out about 415 bucks.

Here's some more billet for your bucks, but this time it's in 100 and 50 gallon per hour fuel pump from Ha Haley. Now, this thing uses a G rotor designed for smooth operation and durability. It flows 100 and 50 gallons per hour as the name implies and supports engines from stock to 900 horsepower. Now, it has a show quality chrome finished with a hard

anodized billet base and works both with gasoline and alcohol. The best part, it won't pump too much out of your wallet with a price at 100 and 80 bucks.

Earlier today, when we did our engine mods on the mustang, we reused the factory fuel rails, which was the economical thing to do, but we could have stepped up to this.

It's a trick new fuel rail kit from BBK for five Os. That's right. More billet

and these rails have an offset design that make them work with stock and after market intake manifolds, their CNC machine with a blue anodized finish

and we'll just finish by saying you can get a kit for about 100 70 bucks. You know, we're about through with this Mustang. But there's one more thing, one more thing, we have to take it to the strip. Uh, good idea. And we'll do that in coming weeks. Meanwhile, Mike and I'll see you next time. So you're gonna kill it like you did. The Camaro might as well go or blow.