Fitting New Body Panels On A Classic Chevelle

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY ON DETROIT MUSCLE IT'S HOW TO FIT NEW SHEET METAL ON YOUR RIDE AND MEASURE FOR NEW EMBLEMS. PLUS WE ANSWER A FEW VIEWER EMAILS WITH FIXES YOU ASKED FOR.

(TOMMY)>> WHEN WE FOUND OUR CHEVELLE IT HAD BEEN SITTING IN A BARN FOR A COUPLE OF DECADES. SO THE FIRST THING WE DID WAS WASH IT OFF.

AFTER A GOOD BATH SHE TOOK A TRIP TO THE BLASTER, WHICH WAS FOLLOWED BY A NEW FLOOR. WHILE THE BODY WAS OFF WE UPGRADED OUR SUSPENSION. THEN MATED THE FRAME TO THE BODY FOR SOME MORE SHEET METAL WORK.

THE CAR HAD SOME QUARTER PANEL ISSUES IN THE USUAL SPOTS, RIGHT BEHIND THE REAR WHEELS. THERE YOU GO. WE'VE GOT OUR QUARTERS ON THAT WE GOT FROM AUTO METAL DIRECT. IT WASN'T TOO BAD AND IT'S STARTING TO LOOK LIKE A CAR AGAIN.

(MARC)>> BUT WE'VE STILL GOT A FEW THINGS WE NEED TO ADDRESS, AND THAT'S WHERE THIS COMES IN. WE GOT A PAIR OF BRAND NEW FENDERS FROM AMD. THEY'RE MADE FROM OEM STEEL AND COME WITH ALL THE FACTORY MOUNTING POINTS. WELL WE NEED TO GET THE REST OF THIS FRONT END BOLTED ON SO WE CAN MOVE ON TO THE NEXT STEP.

(TOMMY)>> NOW BEFORE WE CUT THAT OLD QUARTER OFF WE WENT AHEAD AND LINED UP OUR DOOR SO THAT WE'D HAVE A REFERENCE

POINT ON HOW TO LINE UP THIS NEW QUARTER.

NOW THIS GAP ISN'T WHAT I'D CALL STREET ROD NICE, BUT IT'S FAR BETTER THAN SOME OF THOSE OEM'S THAT I'VE SEEN OUT THERE. NOW THE NEXT STEP THAT WE'RE GONNA BE DOING IS INSTALLING ALL THAT AMD SHEET METAL ON THE FRONT OF THIS CAR, AND WE'VE GOT TO GET IT LINED UP AS WELL.

(MARC)>> WE'LL TOSS IN A NEW SET OF BUSHINGS AND START WITH THE RADIATOR SUPPORT. WITH THAT ON, THE NEW FENDERS CAN COME INTO PLACE.

LIKE TOMMY SAID EARLIER, WE MOUNTED THE DOORS BEFORE WE CUT THE QUARTERS OFF. SO ALL THE BODY LINES ARE GOOD FROM THE FRONT OF THE DOOR BACK, WHICH MEANS WE CAN USE THE LEADING EDGE OF THE DOOR HERE TO ADJUST OUR FENDERS. NOW YOU MIGHT SAY THIS PAINT STICK RIGHT HERE IS INDUSTRY STANDARD FOR THE THICKNESS OF A GAP ON BODY LINES. SO WE'RE GONNA USE THIS TO FIGURE OUT WHERE WE NEED TO PUT OUR FENDER. ALL RIGHT, AS WE STICK THIS PAINT STICK IN HERE YOU CAN SEE HERE THAT THE GAP'S WAY TOO WIDE UP HERE. THEN AS WE GO DOWN AND SEE IT GETS TIGHTER AND TIGHTER UNTIL WE FINALLY GET DOWN HERE WHERE IT'S JUST ABOUT RIGHT, BUT THEN IT TIGHTENS UP TOO TIGHT DOWN HERE. SO THE TOP OF THE FENDER NEEDS TO COME BACK AND THE BOTTOM OF THE FENDER NEEDS TO GO FORWARD, BUT ANOTHER THING TO TAKE INTO CONSIDERATION IS WHERE IT LIES HERE IN LINE WITH THE DOOR. IT'S ACTUALLY STICKING OUT A LITTLE BIT HERE, BUT THE FENDER STICKING OUT JUST A LITTLE BIT ISN'T REALLY

A MAIN CONCERN OF OURS. IF THIS WAS A REALLY NICE SHOW CAR OR SOMETHING WE WERE GONNA TRY TO WIN AN AWARD WITH, WE MIGHT WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT WAS NICE AND FLAT, BUT ACTUALLY A LOT OF THESE CARS CAME FROM THE FACTORY WITH THE FENDER STICKING OUT A LITTLE

BIT OR THE DOOR IN A LITTLE BIT TO CUT DOWN ON WIND NOISE AND TO ALLOW THAT DOOR TO GO BEHIND THE FENDER WHEN IT OPENS, BUT WE ARE GONNA MAKE SURE THAT WE GET THIS GAP JUST

RIGHT, BUT THERE'S A FEW THINGS TO TAKE INTO CONSIDERATION WHEN DOING THAT.

YOU SEE THAT THE GAP'S TOO BIG HERE, YOU MAY THINK YOU NEED TO JUST PUSH THE FENDER BACK AT THE TOP, BUT BECAUSE THIS IS ONE PIECE OF METAL, WHAT HAPPENS HERE IS GONNA EFFECT WHAT HAPPENS ELSEWHERE, LIKE AT THE BOTTOM WHERE WE SAID THE GAP WAS TOO TIGHT. SO THE BEST WAY TO REMEDY THIS IS TO MAKE SURE ALL THE BOLTS ARE LOOSE AND THEN ROTATE THE ENTIRE FENDER. ONE GOOD WAY TO DO THAT IS GET A BUDDY UP FRONT AND WATCH THE GAPS WHILE HE GIVES IT A WIGGLE.

HELP ME OUT TOM.

A LITTLE BIT, JUST STRAIGHT BACK, DOWN A LITTLE, PERFECT! AND NOW WE'VE GOT A PRETTY EVEN GAP THROUGHOUT MOST OF THE DOOR HERE, BUT NOW THAT WE'VE GOT IT THERE WE SEE THAT WE'VE GOT GA NEW PROBLEM WHERE THE FENDER IS LOWER THAN THE DOOR. SO WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO SHIM THAT FENDER UP.

(TOMMY)>> THIS IS A PRETTY SIMPLE CONCEPT. JUST LOOSEN THE MOUNTING BOLT ENOUGH TO ENABLE SOME SHIMS TO SLIDE INTO PLACE. THEN CHECK YOUR ALIGNMENT.

(MARC)>> A LOT BETTER. THAT LOOKS PRETTY GOOD. ALL RIGHT, WELL THAT GETS OUR FENDER WHERE WE NEED IT TO BE. SO NOW WE JUST NEED TO GET THESE BOLTS TIGHTENED.

(TOMMY)>> ALL RIGHT GUYS, WE GOT OUR NEW HOOD HINGES AND

NEW HOOD FROM AMD BOLTED ONTO OUR CHEVELLE. NOW WE'RE READY TO SEE WHERE WE'RE AT BECAUSE I'M PRETTY SURE THAT WE'RE NOT GONNA HIT THE ADJUSTMENT THE FIRST GO AROUND, BUT THERE IS SOMETHING TO KEEP IN MIND. MAKE SURE WHENEVER YOU'RE ADJUSTING YOUR PANELS TO START FROM THE BACK OF THE CAR AND WORK FORWARD. YOU START WITH THE HOOD AND THEN MOVE AROUND TO THE FENDER AND DOOR, AND YOU HAVE TO MOVE THOSE. YOU DON'T HAVE TO COME BACK AND READJUST YOUR HOOD.

LET'S SEE WHERE WE'RE AT. YEAH, WE'RE OFF. THE FIRST THING YOU CAN SEE, THE HOOD'S A LITTLE BIT TWISTED, IT'S HANGING OVER THE FENDER, AND IT'S GOT A BIG OLE GAP BACK HERE IN THE BACK. NOW OVER HERE ON THE PASSENGER SIDE THE HOOD'S STICKING UP ABOUT THAT FAR. IT SHOULD HAVE PLENTY OF ADJUSTMENT. LET'S JUST SEE.

(MARC)>> THE REAR HINGE BOLT IS LOOSE, SO THAT DOESN'T HELP, BUT WE'LL LOOSEN THE FRONT AND LEAN THE WHOLE THING BACK. THEN WE'LL TIGHTEN THEM TO CHECK THE FIT.

(TOMMY)>> YEAH WE'RE FLUSH. NOW WE'RE IN PRETTY GOOD SHAPE EXCEPT FOR WE NEED TO SLIDE THE HOOD FORWARD JUST A LITTLE BIT. THE OVERHANG HERE IS A LITTLE BIT EXCESSIVE. WE'LL LOOSEN THESE BOLTS THAT HOLD THE HOOD TO ALLOW US TO SLIDE THIS SIDE FORWARD. THEN TIGHTEN THEM DOWN AND CHECK IT. YEP, THAT SHOULD DO IT.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, HOW TO MAKE THOSE PESKY HOOD EMBLEMS LOOK RIGHT, AND VIEWER REQUESTED TECH.

(MARC)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK, AND WE JUST FINISHED UP INSTALLING AND ADJUSTING SOME SHEET METAL HERE ON OUR '72

CHEVELLE, AND WE'RE JUST ABOUT READY TO START PRIMING AND PREPPING FOR PAINT, BUT THERE IS SOMETHING THAT WE

NEED TO ADDRESS FIRST. THERE'S A WHOLE BUNCH OF SHINY STUFF THAT'S GONNA GET BOLTED, SCREWED, AND CLIPPED TO THIS THING ONCE IT'S ALL PAINTED UP, AND IF WE DON'T PREFIT THIS STUFF AHEAD OF TIME AND WE TRY TO INSTALL IT AT THE END AFTER IT'S ALL PAINTED WE RISK MESSING IT UP.

(TOMMY)>> A GOOD EXAMPLE OF THAT IS DOOR HANDLES, MIRRORS, AND TRIM, BUT THERE COULD BE THE OCCURRENCE THAT YOU'RE TRYING TO ELIMINATE SOMETHING. IF YOU LOOK AT OUR DOOR HERE IT'S GOT A WHOLE BUNCH OF HOLES DOWN THE MIDDLE OF IT.

SO THAT TELLS US, APPARENTLY AT SOME POINT IN TIME THIS CAR MUST HAVE HAD SIDE TRIM ON IT, AND WE'RE NOT RUNNING THAT STUFF. SO WE'RE GONNA HAVE TO WELD THOSE HOLES UP TO FILL THEM IN, AND THEN SOMETIMES YOU MAY BE ADDING SOMETHING TO IT. NOW WE GOT THIS FANCY COWL INDUCTION HOOD AND WE WANT TO BE RUNNING BOTH OF THOSE EMBLEMS. RIGHT NOW IS THE TIME TO BE DRILLING INTO THIS HOOD, NOT WHENEVER IT'S ALL BUFFED OUT BECAUSE NOBODY LIKES CUTTING INTO THAT NICE, PRETTY PAINT.

(MARC)>> FOR ALL THE SHINY STUFF WE WERE TALKING ABOUT WE WENT TO ORIGINAL PARTS GROUP. THEY OFFER JUST ABOUT EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO RESTORE

THE INTERIOR AND EXTERIOR OF YOUR CHEVELLE OR OTHER GM MUSCLE CAR. THEY'VE GOT MOLDINGS, LENSES, BEZELS, AND TRIM. ALL OF THIS STUFF IS MADE TO OEM SPEC AND IS DESIGNED TO BE A DIRECT REPLACEMENT FOR YOUR ORIGINAL PARTS.

NOW THEY'VE GOT A BUNCH OF DIFFERENT OPTIONS AS WELL, LIKE THESE SS BADGES. NOW A LOT OF YOU GUYS OUT THERE LIKE CONVERTING THESE

CHEVELLES TO SS CLONES. THERE'S NOTHING WRONG WITH THAT. WE'RE NOT DOING IT ON OUR CAR, BUT THEY'VE GOT EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO DO THAT AS WELL AS A BUNCH OF OTHER STUFF LIKE THOSE COWL INDUCTION EMBLEMS.

(TOMMY)>> ALL RIGHT GUYS, THE TECHNIQUE THAT I USE FOR INSTALLING EMBLEMS MAY BE A LITTLE BIT PRIMITIVE BUT IT'S EFFECTIVE, AND YOU CAN USE THIS WHETHER THE CAR'S PAINTED OR NOT. IT'S GOT SOME PRETTY SIMPLE TOOLS, TAPE, SHARPIE, DRILL, LET'S GET STARTED. I'M GONNA START OUT BY LAYING DOWN NOT ONE, NOT TWO, NOT THREE, BUT FOUR LAYERS OF MASKING TAPE. THEN WE'LL GRAB OUR EMBLEM. YOU WANT TO FIGURE OUT WHETHER YOU WANT IT HIGH OR LOW. PUT A DOT ON THERE. USING A PAINT STICK WILL KEEP THE LINE CONSISTENT. THIS WILL GIVE US A REFERENCE POINT TO KEEP THE EMBLEM STRAIGHT. THEN WE'LL BRING OUR EMBLEM BACK IN AND GET IT WHERE WE WANT IT. THEN WE'LL PUT SOME PRESSURE ON IT TO MARK WHERE WE NEED TO DRILL THE HOLES. THIS IS WHY WE HAVE FOUR LAYERS OF TAPE. WE'LL USE AN EIGHTH INCH BIT, WHICH MATCHES THE SIZE OF THE POST ON THE EMBLEM. YOU CAN MARK THE EDGE OF THAT ONE TO TELL YOU HOW FAR TO PUT THE OTHER ONE FROM IT. THEN WE'LL REPEAT THE PROCEDURE ON THE SECOND PIECE. WITH THE TAPE REMOVED WE CAN BLOW OFF THE SHAVINGS, AND INSTALL OUR NEW EMBLEMS. WELL YOU CAN PRETTY MUCH USE THIS TECHNIQUE ON JUST ABOUT ANY EMBLEM THAT YOU'LL RUN ACROSS. JUST TAKE YOUR TIME, DON'T GET IN NO BIG HURRY, AND YOU'LL GET IT RIGHT.

(ANNOUNCER)>> STICK AROUND TO LEARN HOW TO PREVENT FIBERGLASS PANELS FROM SNEAKING CRACKS INTO YOUR NEW PAINT.

(MARC)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK. NOW WE'RE GONNA BE DOING SOMETHING A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENT TODAY. SOME OF YOU HAVE BEEN SENDING US EMAILS ASKING US HOW WE CAN HELP YOU OUT ON SOME OF YOUR PROJECTS AT HOME, AND THAT'S WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO TODAY.

THE FIRST ONE'S FROM DARYL. DARYL SAYS, I GOT MY DUSTER PAINTED DURING THE WINTER AND WHEN I TOOK IT OUT RECENTLY I NOTICED SOME DIVOTS AND CRACKS POPPING UP ON THE HOOD SCOOP.

THE FINISH WAS PERFECT ON IT WHEN I GOT IT BACK FROM THE PAINTER. WHAT HAPPENED, DARYL? WELL DARYL IT SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE A FIBERGLASS HOOD SCOOP ON YOUR DUSTER, AND WITH FIBERGLASS IT'S A LOT DIFFERENT THAN METAL OR PLASTIC IN THAT IT'S VERY POROUS AND THERE'S THINGS THAT CAN HIDE IN THERE. WE'VE GOT A FIBERGLASS HOOD SCOOP HERE AND WE'RE GONNA LOOK AND SEE IF WE CAN FIND SOME CRACKS THAT YOU CAN'T SEE WITH THE NAKED EYE. FIRST WE'RE GONNA SPRAY SOME PRECLEANER ON HERE, WIPE IT OFF, AND AS IT DRIES WE'LL SEE IF THERE'S ANY

CRACKS THAT SHOW UP. THERE'S ONE RIGHT THERE, AND A SMALL ONE RIGHT THERE. NOW SMALL AS THOSE CRACKS ARE, AND AS MINOR AS THEY MAY SEEM, THAT'S THE THING WITH FIBERGLASS. EVEN AFTER A REPAIR, EVEN THROUGH PRIMER, PAINT, AND CLEAR, THAT STUFF WILL SHOW UP MONTHS OR EVEN YEARS DOWN THE ROAD.

I WENT AHEAD AND MARKED OUR CRACKS HERE WITH A SILVER MARKER SO THEY'RE EASIER TO SEE, AND I NEED TO GET THIS GRINDER IN THERE AND GRIND THEM OUT SO WE CAN BEVEL THE

EDGES TO MAKE A PROPER REPAIR. FIRST WE'LL DIG OUT THESE POINTS WHERE THE CRACKS THEMSELVES APPEARED. THEN IT'S TIME TO BEVEL OUT AROUND THEM. THIS DOESN'T HAVE TO BE AS DEEP CAUSE THE IDEA IS FOR THE BEVEL TO ACT AS A TRANSITION FROM THE PART WE DUG OUT EARLIER.

THEN WE'LL TRANSITION IT EVEN FURTHER BY SANDING THE AREA AROUND THE REPAIR.

(ANNOUNCER)>> DETROIT MUSCLE PRESENTS BACK TO BASICS. TIPS FOR THE BEGINNER GEAR HEAD.

(MARC)>> WELL NOW'S THE TIME WE CAN START TALKING ABOUT WHAT KIND OF FILLER WE'RE GONNA BE USING, AND YOU MAY BE WONDERING BECAUSE THIS IS A FIBERGLASS PANEL, BUT IT REALLY DEPENDS ON THE SITUATION. IF THE PANEL'S COMPLETELY BROKEN OR IT'S GOT BIG HOLES IN IT YOU REALLY WANT TO GRAB SOME FIBERGLASS CLOTH AND RESIN, AND FILL IT IN WITH THAT FIRST, BUT IN OUR CASE WE CAN JUST GO WITH THE FILLER, BUT NOT ALL FILLERS ARE CREATED EQUALLY, LIKE THESE FIBERGLASS REINFORCED FILLERS HERE. FIRST IS THE LONG STRAND, WHICH AS THE NAME IMPLIES, HAS LONGER STRANDS OF FIBERGLASS BUILT IN, WHICH IS FOR MORE SERIOUS REPAIRS, AND THE SHORT STRAND, EVEN THOUGH YOU CAN'T

SEE THEM, THERE'S SHORTER STRANDS OF FIBERGLASS IN THERE AND THAT CAN GET INTO THOSE NOOKS AND CRANNIES THAT MAY BE

A LITTLE MORE DIFFICULT WITH THAT LONG STRAND. NOW YOU'LL WANT TO USE THESE IN AN AREA THAT'S GONNA BE UNDER STRESS, SAY LIKE A SEAM OR A JOINT, BUT IF YOU'RE JUST GONNA BE RESHAPING A PANEL THEN YOU MAY WANT TO LOOK AT THIS. HERE WE HAVE STANDARD PLASTIC BODY FILLERS.

THE FIRST KIND IS YOUR STANDARD FILLER THAT YOU'VE SEEN US USE ON METAL REPAIRS IN THE PAST, AND THEN YOU CAN STEP TO THE GLAZE, WHICH IS ACTUALLY THINNER AND MORE PLIABLE. IT'LL GIVE YOU A THINNER COAT, BUT FOR OUR REPAIR ON OUR HOOD SCOOP TODAY WE'RE JUST GONNA USE REGULAR OLE FILLER. ALWAYS REMEMBER THAN YOU WANT TO KNEAD THE FILLER TO MIX IN THE HARDENER. NEVER STIR IT. STIRRING WILL PUT AIR BUBBLES IN THE MATERIAL AND THE NEXT THING YOU KNOW YOU'VE GOT POCK MARKS SHOWING UP IN YOUR REPAIR.

WITH SOME OF IT FORCED DOWN INTO THE GROUND OUT PARTS WILL LET IT CURE FOR A FEW MINUTES.

THEN SAND DOWN THAT LAYER.

WE'VE STILL GOT A BIT OF A LOW SPOT. SO WE'LL MIX UP A TINY BIT OF GLAZE TO SMOOTH IT OUT.

WELL THERE YOU HAVE IT. ALL WE REALLY NEED TO DO IS A LITTLE BIT MORE SANDING ON THIS AND WE CAN PRIME IT AND PAINT IT, AND IT'S REALLY NOT THAT DIFFERENT FROM DOING A NORMAL STEEL REPAIR BUT YOU DO HAVE TO TAKE EXTRA CARE. OTHERWISE THOSE THINGS WILL POP UP ON YOU.

(ANNOUNCER)>> STILL AHEAD, IT'S HOW TO REMOVE THOSE STUCK EXHAUST MANIFOLD STUDS.

(TOMMY)>> HEY Y'ALL, FOR THE NEXT FEW WE'RE GONNA BE ANSWERING SOME OF Y'ALL'S EMAILS, AND I'M SURE THE PROBLEM THAT WE'RE GONNA BE TACKLING, SOME OF Y'ALL HAVE EITHER CAUSED OR HAD HAPPEN TO YOU WHENEVER YOU PULLED OUT AN ENGINE, AND THAT IS BROKEN EXHAUST STUDS. DOYLE WRITES, HEY DETROIT MUSCLE DUDES, I'M WORKING ON A '64 CORVETTE THAT MY UNCLE GAVE ME WHEN HE KICKED THE BUCKET, AND WHEN I TOOK THE EXHAUST OFF TWO OF THE EXHAUST STUDS BROKE THAT HOLD IT TO THE PIPE. HOW DO I FIX THEM, DOYLE? NOW NORMALLY WE PUT HEADERS ON JUST ABOUT EVERYTHING BUT IF YOU'RE GOING FOR THAT OG FEEL LIKE HE IS, WELL YOU'RE GONNA HAVE TO DEAL WITH A SET OF EXHAUST MANIFOLDS. NOW THIS IS JUST LIKE WHAT HE'D BE WORKING WITH AND THE STUDS ARE BROKE OFF OF THEM AS WELL.

FIRST THING YOU NEED TO DO IS CLAMP IT DOWN INTO

A VICE TO KEEP IT PUT. YOU DON'T WANT TO GET TOO AGGRESSIVE WITH THE VICE BECAUSE YOU CAN BUST IT CAUSE THEY'RE ONLY MADE OUT OF CAST IRON. DOYLE, HERE'S A TIP FOR YOU.

USE A SET OF LOCKING PLIERS THAT HAVE THE CURVED JAW TO THEM, NOT THE STRAIGHT JAW. THIS CURVED JAW WILL CLAMP AROUND IT, GIVING YOU MORE SURFACE AREA. ALSO MAKE SURE TO USE A SET THAT ARE SHARP. DON'T USE THEM ONES YOUR PAWPAW GAVE YOU THAT'S HALF WORE OUT. NOW WE'RE GONNA HIT IT WITH SOME WD 40 AND SEE WHAT THAT DOES.

NOPE, THAT'S NOT GONNA DO IT. NOW WE'RE TRYING TO TAKE THIS STUD OUT AND NOT HAVE IT TWIST OFF FLUSH. NOW WHENEVER YOU'RE APPLYING THAT PRESSURE TO YOUR VICE GRIPS MAKE SURE THAT YOU APPLY IT IN A ROTATIONAL FORM. IF YOU JUST BULL DOZE THEM YOU CAN ACTUALLY APPLY TOO MUCH PRESSURE AT KIND OF AN AWKWARD ANGLE AND CAUSE IT TO TWIST

OFF BECAUSE OF THAT. SO JUST BE CONSCIOUS OF IT. WE'VE GOT A DIFFERENT PLAN OF ATTACK NOW, THE HOT WRENCH. NOW I LIKE TO USE THE TORCH HEAD TO DO THIS PARTICULAR THING INSTEAD OF A ROSE BUD BECAUSE I CAN CONTROL THE HEAT A LOT BETTER. WITH THAT ROSE BUD, WHENEVER YOU GO TO APPLY ALL THAT HEAT, THAT WHOLE MAMA JAMA'S GONNA BE HOT. THIS IS FAR MORE PRECISE. YOU WILL WANT TO HEAT THE BASE ALL THE WAY AROUND WHILE PULLING AND PUSHING ON THE PLIERS TRYING TO GET SOME MOVEMENT. ONCE YOU GET THAT, KEEP WORKING IT BACK AND FORTH TO UNSCREW IT A LITTLE MORE EACH TIME. WHOOPS, WHAT YOU DIDN'T WANT. WELL SOMETIMES IT WORKS, SOMETIMES IT DOESN'T,

BUT WE CAN STILL FIX IT. OKAY NOW WE'VE GOT TWO OPTIONS. WE'RE GONNA TAKE THIS NUT ON OUR FIRST ONE AND PLUG WELD IT TO THAT STUD. HOPEFULLY THAT GIVES US ENOUGH SO THAT WE CAN BITE ONTO IT AND TWIST IT AND PULL IT OUT. IF NOT WE'VE GOT TO RESORT TO THE TRUSTY OLE DRILL AND TAP. ONE IMPORTANT THING, IF YOU TRY THIS NUT WELDING

TECHNIQUE, MAKE SURE TO LET THAT THING COOL OFF FOR A GOOD WHILE BECAUSE THE STUD WILL HAVE EXPANDED FROM THE HEAT. ALL RIGHT LET'S SEE IF THIS WORKS.

DON'T FEEL LIKE.

NOPE, IT'S FIXING TO BREAK, TOLD YOU. TIME TO PREP THIS THING FOR THE DRILL BITS.

NOW WE'RE GONNA START OUT WITH THIS LITTLE BIT. IT'S ABOUT AN EIGHTH INCH OR A LITTLE BIGGER. IT DOESN'T HAVE TO BE THAT PRECISE, JUST SOMETHING TO GIVE YOU A PILOT HOLE. [ drill spinning ]

(TOMMY)>> NOW WE JUST MOVED UP A COUPLE OF SIZES, ENLARGED THAT HOLE. OKAY NOW WE'RE GONNA SWITCH OVER TO A LEFT HANDED DRILL BIT, AND THIS IS DESIGNED SO AS IT STARTS TO DRILL IT CAN BITE INTO IT AND SOMETIMES IT'LL JUST UNSCREW ITSELF.

NOW WE'RE OFF CENTER JUST A BIT, AND THAT STUFF HAPPENS WHENEVER YOU'RE DOING IT BY HAND, BUT WE'RE GONNA TAKE A COUPLE OF THESE CHISELS AND I BELIEVE WE CAN ACTUALLY PICK THIS THING AROUND, KIND OF COMPRESS IT DOWN, AND ACTUALLY PUSH THE REST OF THAT STUD OUT. [ hammer tapping ]

(TOMMY)>> OKAY WE'VE GOT JUST A LITTLE

BIT OF THAT MATERIAL LEFT, OR THE STUD LEFT OVER. SO I'M GONNA COME BACK WITH A CARBIDE BIT, KIND OF GRIND IT BACK WITH A DRILL, AND THAT WAY ALL WE HAVE TO DO IS RUN A TAP BACK THROUGH IT, WE CAN SAVE THE HOLE.

YOU'LL WANT TO BACK THE TAP UP EVERY SO OFTEN TO ALLOW THE THREAD PIECES THAT YOU'RE DIGGING OUT FROM THE STUD TO FREE UP AND FALL OUT. WELL THERE YOU GO DOYLE. THAT'S ALL IT IS TO IT. IT TAKES A LITTLE BIT OF TIME AND SOME EFFORT BUT HEY, IT AIN'T TOO BAD. NOW YOU JUST NEED TO SCREW IN A NEW STUD, CLEAN IT UP WITH A WIRE BRUSH, HECK MAYBE EVEN A FRESH COAT OF PAINT.

IF YOU'RE WORKING ON RESTORING A '70 TO '74 MOPAR EBODY, LIKE A CHALLENGER OR CUDA, AND YOU'RE HAVING SOME ISSUES WITH YOUR INSTRUMENT CLUSTER, FINDING A REPLACEMENT ISN'T AN EASY TASK UNTIL NOW. CLASSIC INDUSTRIES HAS WHAT YOU NEED. THIS CLUSTER COMES WITH INDIVIDUALLY CALIBRATED GAUGES THAT ARE READY FOR INSTALLATION, AND THE INSTRUMENTS HAVE ALL THE CORRECT MARKINGS, FONTS, AND COLORS, AND IF YOU HAVE THAT OPTIONAL CLOCK, WELL THEY HAVE ONE WITH THE QUARTZ MOVEMENT THAT'S GONNA BE A WHOLE LOT MORE ACCURATE THAN THAT OLD ONE.

(MARC)>> IF YOU NEED A TORQUE CONVERTER FOR YOUR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION AND YOU'RE LOOKING FOR A WIDE ARRAY AND OPTIONS AND UPGRADES, THEN YOU SHOULD TAKE A LOOK AT THOR CONVERTERS. THOR OFFERS FIVE DIFFERENT LEVELS OF PERFORMANCE DESIGNED TO WORK WITH JUST ABOUT ANY RIDE, FROM HOT RODS TO PRO MODS, AND DEPENDING ON YOUR POWER LEVEL AND APPLICATION YOU CAN CHOOSE FROM AN ARRAY OF OPTIONS AND UPGRADES, INCLUDING ANTIBALLOONING PLATES, CHROMOLY HUBS, FURNACE BRAZED TURBINE FINS AND BILLET COVERS. ONCE YOU'RE PLACED YOUR ORDER THEY'LL BUILD YOUR CONVERTER RIGHT HERE IN THE US OF "A" TO YOUR SPECS AND THEN BALANCE

IT ELECTRONICALLY. FOR MORE INFORMATION GO TO THOR CONVERTERS DOT COM. THAT'S ALL THE TIME WE HAVE FOR TODAY FOLKS. SO UNTIL NEXT, IF YOU CAN'T FIND'EM, GRIND'EM.