Nissan NV: Diesel Engine

(NARRATOR)>> WE'RE DROPPING A DIESEL TITAN POWER PLANT INTO A NISSAN NV VAN, AND IT'S A TIGHT FIT. TODAY ON XTREME OFF ROAD WE TAKE YOU STEP BY STEP THROUGH OUR ENGINE SWAP WITH THE INFO YOU NEED TO UPGRADE THE DRIVETRAIN IN YOUR RIG. PLUS THE XOR ADVENTURE JEEP GETS HEAVY DUTY SUSPENSION AND 40 INCHES OF RUBBER.

(IAN)>> WE'VE GOT A LOT OF PROJECTS ON THE GO IN THE XTREME SHOP LATELY. OUR SIX BY SIX SUBURBAN CHASSIS IS IN MID BUILD. THE BODY IS ACTUALLY OUT OF THE SHOP GETTING SOME BODY WORK DONE TO IT, AND THE REAR SUSPENSION IS JUST ABOUT READY TO GO BACK UNDERNEATH THIS FRAME FOR THE LAST TIME. I'M JUST WAITING ON A VERY SPECIAL PART THAT WILL ENSURE THAT BOTH REAR AXLES ARE LIVE ON THAT RIG WHEN IT'S COMPLETE. NOW OUR '66 BRONCO, I'VE ALSO BEEN WAITING ON SOME PARTS FOR IT AS WELL.

IF YOU REMEMBER THIS IS OUR FULL ON THROW DOWN ULTRA FOUR STYLE PRERUNNER, AND THE PLAN FROM THE VERY BEGINNING WAS INDEPENDENT FRONT SUSPENSION. WELL A PALLET JUST SHOWED UP THE OTHER DAY. SO WE'RE READY TO JUMP BACK ON THIS ONE SHORTLY AS WELL. NOW EVEN THOUGH I'VE BEEN WAITING FOR PARTS, LUCKY FOR ME, I STILL HAVE A FEW OTHER PROJECTS THAT I HAVE TO DEAL WITH. WE'RE GONNA START TODAY WITH THIS. I HAVE TO GET THIS CUMMINS FIVE LITER VEIGHT ENGINE UNDERNEATH THE HOOD OF OUR NISSAN NV 2,500 VAN.

TO PREP THE ENGINE BAY FOR OUR NEW FIVE LITER DIESEL EVERYTHING HAS GOT TO BE REMOVED. WE'LL PULL OUT THE AIR CONDITIONING COMPRESSOR AND THE COMPLETE POWER STEERING SYSTEM, CUT OFF THE STOCK MOTOR MOUNTS, AND GRIND THE FRAME SMOOTH.

I KNOW THAT THERE'S PROBABLY VERY FEW OF YOU THAT ARE ACTUALLY PLANNING TO INSTALL A VEIGHT CUMMINS UNDERNEATH THE HOOD OF YOUR EVERY DAY WORK VAN, BUT EVERYTHING THAT WE DO WITH THIS ENGINE APPLIES TO WHENEVER YOU'RE PLANNING A POWERTRAIN SWAP, SPECIFICALLY IF YOU'RE INSTALLING AN ENGINE

THAT DIDN'T COME IN THAT VEHICLE FROM THE FACTORY. THE FIRST STEP IS ENGINE PLACEMENT, AND IT'S NOT JUST STICKING THE MOTOR IN THE ENGINE BAY AND TACK WELDING THE MOUNTS TO THE FRAME. YOU ACTUALLY WANT TO HANG THE MOTOR IN PLACE WHERE YOU CAN STILL MOVE IT AROUND, AND THEN CHECK IT'S ACTUAL LOCATION. YOU MAY NEED TO MOVE IT SIDE TO SIDE OR FRONT TO BACK. THE FIRST ITEM YOU NEED TO BE CONCERNED WITH IS THE RADIATOR. YOU WANT TO GET THE ENGINE AS FAR BACK IN THE ENGINE BAY THAT YOU CAN TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE CLEARANCE BETWEEN THE FAN AND THE RADIATOR THAT SITS IN FRONT IT, AND IN OUR CASE FOR THIS ENGINE WE ALSO NEED TO MAKE SURE THAT WE HAVE ROOM FOR THE INTERCOOLER. SO THAT IS WHAT GETS TEST FIT FIRST.

WITH THE RADIATOR IN PLACE WE HAVE PLENTY OF ROOM FROM THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE TO THE CORE, EVEN WITH THE LARGE MECHANICAL FAN IN PLACE, WHICH IS GOOD. THE BAD NEWS IS THAT THE INTERCOOLER DOES NOT FIT. NOW THIS IS THE INTERCOOLER OFF OF AN ACTUAL TITAN PICK UP TRUCK, AND THE PROBLEM IS IT'S JUST NOT WIDE ENOUGH. YOU CAN SEE THAT THE ACTUAL OUTLET ON THIS SIDE IS CONTACTING THE RADIATOR CORE. NOW THERE'S A COUPLE OF SOLUTIONS HERE BUT PROBABLY THE EASIEST ONE IS TO GO AHEAD AND PLAN FOR A CUSTOM INTERCOOLER TO BE BUILT TO FIT THIS PARTICULAR PACKAGE. EVERYTHING ELSE IS GOOD THOUGH. THE INTERCOOLER WILL NOT EFFECT THE LOCATION OF THE ENGINE. SO WE CAN THEN MOVE ON TO THE NEXT ISSUE. NOW ONCE YOU HAVE THE ENGINE PLACEMENT FRONT TO BACK, YOU NEED TO WORRY ABOUT FIREWALL LOCATION, AND THAT

INVOLVES THE EXHAUST.

UNDERNEATH THE VEHICLE YOU NEED TO MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE ENOUGH ROOM FOR THE EXHAUST TO CLEAR THE FIREWALL AS WELL AS THE FRAME. NOW WE ARE IN GOOD SHAPE BECAUSE OUR VEIGHT ACTUALLY ONLY HAS A SINGLE DOWN TUBE THAT COMES OFF THE BACK OF THE TURBO, AND THERE'S PLENTY OF ROOM FOR IT TO LAND RIGHT INSIDE THIS FRAME RAIL. ALL THE STOCK EXHAUST FROM OUR GAS ENGINE IS GONNA GO IN THE

TRASH EVENTUALLY, AND WE'LL REPLACE IT WITH THE FULL

DIESEL AFTER TREATMENT ONCE THE ENGINE IS MOUNTED UP. THE NEXT THING YOU NEED TO CHECK IS ENGINE HEIGHT. NOW IF YOU'RE BUILDING A TWO WHEEL DRIVE VEHICLE, YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT THE OIL PAN IS ABOVE ANY SUSPENSION OR ENGINE CROSS MEMBER. THAT WAY IF YOU EVER COME INTO CONTACT WITH ANYTHING ON THE ROAD, THE CHASSIS TAKES THE BRUNT OF THE DAMAGE INSTEAD OF THE OIL PAN. ON A FOUR WHEEL DRIVE TRUCK IT'S USUALLY NOT AN ISSUE BECAUSE THE AXLE IS USUALLY PROTECTING THAT OIL PAN. SO THE HEIGHT OF THE OIL PAN IS NOT A HUGE CONCERN.

YOU DO NEED TO PAY ATTENTION TO THE HEIGHT OF THE BELL HOUSING. YOU WANT TO MAKE SURE THERE'S PLENTY OF ROOM FOR THE TRANSMISSION TO BOLT UP TO THE BACK OF THE ENGINE AND FOR THE TRANSMISSION AND TRANSFER CASE TO FIT INTO THE

TUNNEL ON THE BODY. NOW WE ARE IN GOOD SHAPE. IT LOOKS LIKE WE'LL BE ABLE TO FIT THE ENTIRE DRIVETRAIN IN HERE AND THE ENGINE IS SITTING AT A GOOD HEIGHT, AND WE HAVE PLENTY OF ROOM FOR THE EXHAUST. SO NEXT UP, TACK OUR ENGINE MOUNTS IN AND THEN DEAL WITH THE REST OF THE DRIVETRAIN.

[ welder crackling ]

(NARRATOR)>> STILL AHEAD, COIL OVER SHOCKS, NINE INCH AXLES, AND BEAD LOCKS GET OUR ADVENTURE JEEP READY FOR THE TRAIL.

(IAN)>> WE'RE RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF TRANSPLANTING THE ENTIRE DRIVETRAIN OUT OF A TITAN XD PICK UP TRUCK UNDERNEATH THE HOOD OF OUR NISSAN NV 2,500 VAN. NOW OUR FIVE LITER CUMMINS IS MOUNTED IN THE ENGINE BAY AND WE'RE JUST GONNA MOVE ON DOWN THE LINE TO THE REST OF THE DRIVETRAIN, AND FOR US THAT'S AN AISIN AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION AND THE TITAN FACTORY TRANSFER CASE. NOW THERE'S A FEW ITEMS THAT YOU WANT TO PAY ATTENTION TO

WHEN IT COMES TO MOUNTING UP TRANSMISSION AND TRANSFER

CASES IN YOUR PROJECT, AND EVEN THOUGH THIS IS A SPECIALIZED APPLICATION, EVERYTHING WE DO HERE APPLIES TO ANY PROJECT WHERE YOU'RE DOING A COMPLETE DRIVETRAIN SWAP. THE FIRST THING YOU NEED TO LOOK AT IS THE TRANSFER CASE

AND DETERMINE WHETHER IT IS A PASSENGER OR DRIVER'S SIDE DROP. IN OUR CASE WE HAVE A DRIVER'S SIDE DROP. NOW THAT JUST REFERS TO THE LOCATION OF THE FRONT AXLE OUTPUT FLANGE ON THE TRANSFER CASE. DEPENDING ON YOUR APPLICATION, YOU MAY NEED TO MOVE YOUR ENTIRE DRIVETRAIN MAYBE JUST ONE INCH TO THE OPPOSITE SIDE

OF THE CHASSIS TO GIVE YOU MORE CLEARANCE FOR THAT FRONT DRIVESHAFT. WE DON'T HAVE TO DO THAT BECAUSE OUR TRANSFER CASE IS WHAT'S CALLED "CLOCKED". INSTEAD OF LAYING PERFECTLY FLAT WITH THE OUTPUT UP HERE EVEN WITH THE OUTPUT OF THE TRANSMISSION, IT'S LOWERED DOWNED OR CLOCKED DOWN TO A LOWER POSITION. THAT GIVES US MORE CLEARANCE FOR THAT FRONT DRIVESHAFT TO

GET BY THE SIDE OF OUR TRANSMISSION. WE DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT IT HITTING THE SENSOR OR ANY WIRING AS THE SUSPENSION CYCLES UP AND DOWN. NOW THE FIRST STEP IN INSTALLING THIS PACKAGE INTO OUR VAN IS, WELL, THE ENGINE THAT WE JUST SPENT ALL THAT TIME GETTING UNDERNEATH THE HOOD, IT'S GOTTA COME OUT.

WITH THE ENGINE OUT, TRANSMISSION AND TRANSFER CASE ARE THEN BOLTED UP TO THE BACK.

THE VAN IS THEN JACKED UP FOR BETTER ACCESS UNDERNEATH.

TO MAKE INSTALLATION EASIER THE FRONT BUMPER AND FASCIA

ARE REMOVED FROM THE VAN.

THIS WILL LIMIT THE HEIGHT THAT THE ENTIRE DRIVETRAIN NEEDS TO BE RAISED TO SLIDE INTO THE FRAME RAIL.

THE VAN IS THEN DROPPED BACK DOWN ONTO ITS TIRES AND THE ENTIRE DRIVETRAIN IS TEST FIT INTO PLACE.

I WAS REALLY HOPING TO BE ABLE TO SLIDE OUR ENTIRE DRIVETRAIN IN BETWEEN THE FLOOR AND THAT REAR CROSS MEMBER BUT IT'S NOT GONNA FIT. IT'S CONTACTING EVERYTHING THAT IS GOING INTO PLACE. SO THE SOLUTION NOW IS I'VE GOTTA UNBOLT THAT CROSS MEMBER AND GET RID OF THAT FACTORY EXHAUST TO JUST GIVE ME A LITTLE BIT MORE ROOM. NOW WHEN YOU'RE DEALING WITH AN ENTIRE DRIVETRAIN LIKE WE ARE HANGING FROM AN ENGINE CRANE, RESIST THE URGE TO SIMPLY LEAVE IT IN PLACE AND JUMP UNDERNEATH THE CHASSIS AND DO A BUNCH OF WORK WITH IT HANGING ON THE CRANE. IF THE CHAIN WAS TO FAIL, OR THE HYDRAULIC PUMP WAS TO FAIL, THE ENTIRE DRIVETRAIN IS GONNA SLAM DOWN ON THE FRAME. IF YOU'RE LIKE WE ARE HERE, JUST SITTING ON THE TIRES AND WHEELS, IT'S GONNA COMPRESS ALL OF THE SUSPENSION WITH YOU UNDERNEATH. IF IT'S ON JACK STANDS, THAT MUCH OF A SHOCK TO A FRAME ON A SET OF JACK STANDS COULD ACTUALLY KNOCK IT OFF THOSE STANDS AND IT'LL LAND RIGHT ON THE FLOOR. SO IT'S NOT SAFE TO WORK THAT WAY. THE BETTER SOLUTION, GET THAT DRIVETRAIN BACK OUT OF THE WAY.

IT'S GONNA GIVE YOU A LOT MORE ROOM TO WORK AND IT'S GONNA BE A LOT SAFER.

WHEN YOU GET LUCKY LIKE WE DID WITH SOMETHING AS IMPORTANT AS A TRANSMISSION CROSS MEMBER MOUNT, WELL THAT'S WHEN YOU HAVE A DECISION TO MAKE. DO YOU GO AHEAD AND JUST USE THAT FACTORY MOUNT AND MOVE YOUR MOTOR MOUNTS, OR DO YOU STICK WITH YOUR ORIGINAL MOTOR MOUNT LOCATION AND REDO THE TRANSMISSION CROSS MEMBER. ON THIS PROJECT I THINK THE BEST DECISION IS TO JUST REDO OUR MOTOR MOUNTS. FIRST OF ALL WE'VE ALREADY DONE A BUNCH OF CUSTOM FAB UP HERE. SO I CAN JUST BREAK THE TACKS OFF, MOVE THE MOUNTS UP, AND REWELD THEM INTO PLACE, AND NOT HAVE TO DO ANY HARDCORE FAB UNDERNEATH THE VAN. SECOND OF ALL AFTER GETTING EVERYTHING IN PLACE AND

LOOKING AT IT, IF I MOVE THIS DRIVETRAIN BACK ANY FURTHER I'M GOING TO HAVE SOME FLOOR BOARD ISSUES AROUND THE TRANSFER CASE. IF YOU DO END UP MOVING YOUR MOTOR MOUNTS, LIKE WE HAVE, RECHECK THINGS AT THE FRONT OF THE MOTOR, LIKE OBVIOUSLY YOUR RADIATOR. RIGHT NOW I CAN TELL I'M JUST A LITTLE TOO CLOSE TO THIS MECHANICAL FAN. THE SOLUTION FOR THAT IS PRETTY SIMPLE. WE'LL JUST DITCH THAT, GO WITH A COUPLE OF ELECTRIC FANS. THERE'S STILL A GOOD SIX TO EIGHT INCHES BETWEEN THE CORE AND THE FRONT OF THE MOTOR. PLENTY OF ROOM FOR A COUPLE OF FANS AND A GOOD SHROUD TO MOVE TONS OF AIR AND KEEP THE ENGINE GOOD AND COOL. AS IT SITS RIGHT NOW, REAL HAPPY WITH THE PLACEMENT

OF THIS ENGINE. IT ACTUALLY LOOKS LIKE IT COULD HAVE COME IN HERE FROM THE FACTORY.

(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT HIGH PERFORMANCE RADIUS ARM SUSPENSION FOR OUR ADVENTURE JEEP.

(IAN)>> SO FAR WE HAVE MADE A LOT OF CHANGES TO OUR JEEP LJ, CONVERTING IT TO A PICK UP TRUCK, SWAPPING IN A HEMI, AND ADDING BUMPERS AND A BUNCH OF ARMOR, AND NEXT IS THE SUSPENSION. NOW THERE'S NO WAY THE STOCK SUSPENSION IS GONNA BE ABLE TO HANDLE THE WHEELING THAT I KNOW YOU GUYS HAVE PLANNED FOR THIS JEEP, AND IT'S CERTAINLY NOT GONNA GIVE US ENOUGH ROOM TO FIT THESE 40 INCH TALL TIRES THAT I PLAN TO SLIDE UNDERNEATH THIS RIG. SO THE FIRST STEP IS TO TAKE ALL THE STOCK STUFF, THROW IT IN THE TRASH. BUTTON'S OVER HERE!

[ drill spinning ]

[ metal clanging on floor ]

(IAN)>> WHEN YOU STUFF A HEMI ENGINE UNDERNEATH THE HOOD OF A TJ, OR IN OUR CASE A JEEP LJ, FITTING A LONG ARM SUSPENSION SYSTEM UNDERNEATH THE FRONT OF THAT RIG CAN BE A LITTLE BIT TRICKY. YOU'RE USUALLY LEFT WITH TWO DIFFERENT OPTIONS, EITHER A THREE LINK OR A RADIUS ARM.

NOW A COMPANY THAT HAS FULLY ADOPTED THE RADIUS ARM SUSPENSION SYSTEM IS RUSTY'S OFF ROAD. SO I HAD THEM SEND ME ONE OF THEIR HEAVY DUTY LONG ARM KITS FOR THIS JEEP. IT COMES WITH TWO RADIUS ARMS FOR UP FRONT AND A HEAVY DUTY TRACK BAR, ALL NEW SUSPENSION MOUNTS BOTH FRONT AND REAR, AND OUT BACK ALL NEW FOUR LINK BARS ALONG WITH ANOTHER HEAVY DUTY TRACK ROD. NOW NORMALLY YOU'D ORDER THIS SUSPENSION SYSTEM YOU NEED TO GET LONGER COIL SPRINGS TO REPLACE THE FACTORY ONES, BUT I KNOW IF I WAS HOPING TO WIN THE JEEP I'D WANT IT TO HAVE COIL OVER SHOCKS. SO THAT IS WHAT THIS RIG IS GETTING.

RUSTY'S NOW OFFERS A COMPLETE LINE OF THEIR OWN COIL OVER SHOCK PACKAGES THAT YOU CAN INSTALL ONTO YOUR JEEP. IT DOES REQUIRE A LITTLE BIT OF FABRICATION BUT TRUST ME,

THAT FABRICATION IS GONNA PAY OFF IN THE PERFORMANCE OF THIS JEEP IN THE END. SINCE WE'RE GONNA BE CONVERTING THIS JEEP OVER TO COIL OVERS, THE FACTORY SPRING POCKETS NEED TO GO ALONG WITH THE STOCK LOWER CONTROL ARM MOUNT.

THE FRAME IS THEN GROUND COMPLETELY SMOOTH. THIS SKID PLATE IS THEN LOWERED FOR THE NEW FRAME SIDE SUSPENSION MOUNTS TO BE INSTALLED, AND THE FRAME IS DRILLED FOR THE UPPER MOUNTS.

I LIKE TO ALSO WELD THESE BRACKETS TO THE FRAME WITH SHORT ONE INCH STITCH WELDS. THE REAR LINKS ARE THEN INSTALLED INTO THE FRAME SIDE MOUNTS.

THE HEAVY DUTY TRACK BAR MOUNT USES THE FACTORY MOUNT TO LOCATE IT. THIS BRACKET IS ALSO WELDED TO THE FRAME AND WE ARE READY FOR SOME AXLES. [ welder crackling ]

(NARRATOR)>> COMING UP, CUSTOM BUILT NINE INCH

AXLE HOUSINGS FOR THE LJ.

(IAN)>> WHEN IT CAME TIME TO CHOOSE THE AXLES FOR THIS JEEP, SURE, WE COULD HAVE REBUILT THE REAR DANA 44,

MAYBE ADDED A 44 UP FRONT, BUT THEY'RE NOT GONNA HANDLE THOSE 40 INCH TALL TIRES. A BETTER SOLUTION IS A SET OF CUSTOM NINE INCH AXLE ASSEMBLIES. NOW THEY'RE GONNA START WITH THIS SPIDER TRACKS ULTIMATE HOUSING. IT HAS A QUARTER INCH ONE PIECE WALL SHELL THAT'S WELDED BOTH INSIDE AND OUT, AND A THREEEIGHTHS INCH THICK FLANGE FOR THE THIRD MEMBER TO BOLT UP TO. NOW THE FLANGE IS DESIGNED TO ACCEPT BOTH THE STANDARD NINE INCH RING GEAR AND THE LARGER AFTERMARKET 10 INCH RING GEAR AS WELL.

THE TUBES ARE THREE AND A HALF INCH, QUARTER INCH WALL, AND THE AXLE SHIPS WITH ALL THE STUDS AND NUTS NEEDED TO BOLT THE THIRD MEMBER IN PLACE, BUT NO BRACKETS TO WORK WITH OUR SUSPENSION. SO I HAD RUSTY SEND US ONE OF THEIR BRACKET KITS TO GO WITH THEIR SUSPENSION. ALL WE HAVE TO DO IS FIGURE OUT WHERE THEY WILL LAND ON THIS AXLE HOUSING AND TACK THEM IN PLACE. TO DO THAT WE HAVE TO GET HOUSING UNDER THE JEEP. THE HOUSING IS PLACED UNDER THE BACK OF THE JEEP AND ALIGNED USING A COUPLE OF PLUMB BOBS. I LIKE TO PUT THE AXLE AT FULL BUMP, AND IN OUR CASE THAT'S 20 INCHES FROM THE TOP OF THE AXLE TUBE TO THE BOTTOM OF THE REAR FENDER. THE HOUSING IS THEN LOCKED INTO PLACE BY WELDING IT SOLID TO THE FRAME. THE UPPER LINK MOUNTS AND THE PAN HARD BAR MOUNT CAN THEN BE

TACKED ONTO THE HOUSING, BUT THE JEEP MUST BE LOWERED AND PLACED ON JACK STANDS FOR THE LOWER LINKS TO CLEAR THE LIFT ARMS. [ welder crackling ]

(IAN)>> I'VE ALREADY TOLD YOU GUYS THAT WE'RE GONNA BE UPGRADING THIS JEEP TO A SET OF COIL OVER SHOCKS, AND THAT JUST GIVES US THE ULTIMATE TUNE ABILITY FOR THE SUSPENSION ON THIS JEEP BOTH FRONT AND REAR. WE CAN CHANGE THE VALVING IN THE SHOCK.

WE CAN ALSO CHANGE THESE SPRING RATES ON THE SHOCK TO ALLOW THE SUSPENSION TO ACT DIFFERENTLY DEPENDING ON THE TERRAIN. NOW PACKAGING A COIL OVER SHOCK ON A JEEP CAN GET A LITTLE BIT TRICKY. RUSTY'S DID SEND ME A SET OF THEIR UNIVERSAL COIL OVER TOWERS THAT WILL BASICALLY LOCK IN OFF OF THE FRAME RAIL, AND THIS IS ANOTHER REASON WHY I LIKE TO BUILD A JEEP AT FULL COMPRESSION. I'VE SIMPLY DISCHARGED THE SHOCK AND ALLOW IT TO COLLAPSE ALL THE WAY. NOW I CAN SET IT IN PLACE AND I WILL KNOW FOR SURE THAT THE SHOCK WILL BOTTOM OUT AT THE SAME POINT WHEN THE SUSPENSION IS FULLY COMPRESSED.

THE PROCESS FOR THE FRONT IS THE SAME AS THE REAR. THE SPIDER TRACKS HOUSING IS PLACED UNDER THE FRONT OF THE JEEP AT FULL COMPRESSION. IT'S SQUARED UP UNDER THE CHASSIS AND THEN LOCKED INTO PLACE WITH SOME SCRAP TUBING. THE FRONT PAN HARD BAR MOUNT IS TACKED ONTO THE AXLE. THE JEEP WAS THEN LOWERED ONTO SOME JACK STANDS TO INSTALL THE FRONT RADIUS ARM.

[ welder crackling ]

(IAN)>> FINALLY THE FRONT COIL OVER MOUNTS

ARE TACKED INTO PLACE.

I'VE ALREADY GIVEN YOU GUYS A SNEAK PEAK AT THESE MAXXIS TREPIDORS THAT I PLAN TO INSTALL ONTO THIS JEEP. IT'S A 40 INCH TALL, 13.5 INCH WIDE HEAVY DUTY OFF ROAD TIRE. IT HAS A SIX PLY TREAD AND FOUR PLY SIDE WALL.

IT HAS A VERY AGGRESSIVE SIDE BITER PATTERN ON THE SIDE OF THE TIRE THAT HELPS GIVE US EXTRA TRACTION OFF ROAD. NOW MAXXIS DOES OFFER THIS TIRE IN A BUNCH OF DIFFERENT RUBBER COMPOUNDS, BUT AFTER TALKING WITH THEM THEY SAID A LOT OF THE ULTRA FOUR GUYS HAVE BEEN HAVING VERY GOOD SUCCESS WITH THEIR STANDARD STREET COMPOUND. SO THAT IS WHAT I HAD THEM SEND THESE TIRES IN. I'M GONNA WRAP THEM AROUND A SET OF WHEELS THAT WE GOT FROM OUR FRIENDS THAT WE GOT FROM OUR FRIENDS AT WHEEL PROS. THIS IS THE KMC XD SERIES MACHETE HEAVY DUTY ALUMINUM BEAD LOCK.

IT'S A 17 INCH BEAD LOCK THAT HAS A CLAMPING RING WITH STRIATIONS CUT INTO THE OUTSIDE OF IT. THAT JUST HELPS CLAMP THE BEAD ONTO THE RIM TO PREVENT ANY RUBBER SLIPPAGE WHEN THE TIRE IS AIRED DOWN.

AND WITH THE TIRE AND WHEEL FULLY ASSEMBLED WE'LL SET THE JEEP AT RIDE HEIGHT AND ROLL THEM INTO PLACE TO SEE HOW IT LOOKS. I THINK THIS JEEP LOOKS JUST RIGHT.