Discount Datsun Shocks

(ANNOUNCER)>> IT MAY BE A BUDGET BUILD BUT OUR DISCOUNT DATSUN WILL HAVE EVERYTHING IT NEEDS TO BE A HEAVY DUTY ROCK CRAWLER. TODAY ON XTREME OFF ROAD WE INSTALL 14 INCH AIR SHOCKS, DISC BRAKES, AND MORE.

PLUS AN OXY FUEL TORCH CAN SAVE TONS OF TIME IN YOUR SHOP.

(IAN)>> I'VE GOT A PRETTY LOFTY GOAL IN MIND TODAY FOR PROJECT DISCOUNT DATSUN. I WANT TO HAVE IT OUT FROM IN BETWEEN THE LIFT

SITTING ON ITS TIRES AND WHEELS. I WANT TO FLEX THE SUSPENSION TO CHECK ALL THE ARTICULATION. NOW I'M GONNA BE ABLE TO DO THAT BECAUSE THE FINAL PIECE FOR OUR SUSPENSION PUZZLE SHOWED UP, AND THAT IS THESE FOX TWO POINT ZERO AIR SHOCKS FOR ALL FOUR CORNERS. BUT I'M SURE YOU FIGURED OUT JUST LOOKING AT THIS RIG, I STILL HAVE A BUNCH OF STUFF TO DO. I MEAN THE FRONT AXLE ISN'T UNDERNEATH HERE, I HAVEN'T EVEN STARTED ON THE FRONT SUSPENSION. I'VE GOT A BUNCH OF TUBE WORK TO DO. I STILL HAVE TO ASSEMBLE THE AXLE, PUT THE GEARS IN THE REAR, AND I GOT THREE BEAD LOCKS IN THE CORNER THAT I HAVE TO FINISH BUILDING AND PUT THE TIRES ON BEFORE I CAN EVEN PUT THEM ON THE TRUCK. I HAVE A LOT OF WORK TO DO. I'M GONNA START BY FINISHING OUT THE REAR SUSPENSION. THE FOX TWO POINT ZERO AIR SHOCK IS PERFECT FOR THIS PROJECT. THE INCH AND A QUARTER 4340 HARD CHROME STEEL SHAFT IS MATED TO A HIGH FLOW RACE DEVELOPED PISTON THAT TRAVELS THROUGH FOX'S PROPRIETARY SHOCK OIL TO HELP DAMPEN THE MOVEMENT.

THE SPRING IN THIS SYSTEM IS ACTUALLY THE NITROGEN CHARGE INSIDE THE SHOCK. THIS GIVES ME THE ABILITY TO ADJUST THE SPRING RATE BY SIMPLY CHANGING THE NITROGEN PRESSURE, AND THAT WILL MAKE TUNING THE SUSPENSION A LOT EASIER. [ GRINDER SPINNING ]

(IAN)>> SINCE WE ARE BUILDING THE SUSPENSION AT FULL COMPRESSION, THE NITROGEN NEEDS TO BE BLED FROM THE AIR SHOCK SO IT CAN BE INSTALLED FULLY COMPRESSED. SHOCK TABS ARE INSTALLED ONTO THE AXLE HOUSING AND UPPER MOUNTS ARE TACKED ONTO THE CHASSIS. WITH THESE IN PLACE ALL THE FAB WORK ON THE REAR AXLE IS COMPLETE. THE AXLE CAN THEN COME OUT AND BE FINISH WELDED ON THE STAND. [ WELDER CRACKLING ] [ GRINDER SPINNING ]

(IAN)>> HA, HA! THE 14 BOLT IS STRIPPED OF ITS REAR DRUMS AND BACKING PLATES, AND THE YUKON 5.38 TO ONE RING GEAR IS INSTALLED ONTO THE FULLY WELDED CARRIER. THE CARRIER IS THEN DROPPED INTO THE HOUSING, ALONG WITH THE PINION SUPPORT AND MATCHING 5.38 PINION.

[ AIR CHISEL VIBRATING ]

(IAN)>> FINALLY THE AXLE IS TREATED TO A REAR DISC BRAKE CONVERSION FROM BARNES FOUR WHEEL DRIVE. IT UTILIZES THE SMALLER CHEVROLET THREE QUARTER

TON FRONT ROTORS THAT REPLACE THE DRUMS ON THE BEARING SUPPORT.

TO START ON THE FRONT SUSPENSION THE FACTORY CROSS MEMBER IS CUT OUT AND THE EXHAUST IS REMOVED.

THE FRONT AXLE'S DROPPED ONTO SOME STANDS AND THE TRUCK IS LOWERED BACK DOWN TO FULL COMPRESSION. NOW THAT IS A PROBLEM. NOW THIS IS SOMETHING THAT'S GONNA COME UP ALL THE TIME WHENEVER YOU'RE DOING ANY SERIOUS CUSTOM FAB. YOU'RE GONNA HIT A SNAG. RIGHT NOW MY BARNES FOUR WHEEL DRIVE TRUSS IS HITTING MY FACTORY FRAME RAIL, AND I'M NOT ALL THE WAY DOWN ON THE GROUND. I'M STILL A GOOD SIX TO EIGHT INCHES UP FROM WHERE I WANT THE FULL COMPRESSION HEIGHT OF THE SUSPENSION TO BE. NOW THERE'S A COUPLE OF SOLUTIONS FOR THIS. I COULD SIMPLY JACK THE FRONT END OF THE TRUCK UP AND MAYBE STICK IT WAY UP IN THE AIR OR I COULD MOVE THE AXLE FURTHER FORWARD TO GET THE TRUSS OUT FROM UNDERNEATH THE FRAME. THE PROBLEM WITH THAT IS THAT'S GONNA PUT EITHER MY TRUCK TOO TALL OR THE WHEEL BASE TOO LONG. THE ONLY SOLUTION AT THIS POINT IS HONESTLY START CUTTIN', AND CUT WE SHALL. WITH SOME LOCATION MARKS ON THE FRONT TRUSS, THE FRAME RAILS ARE CHOPPED OFF THE FRONT OF THE TRUCK. [ SAW CUTTING ]

(IAN)>> THE TRUSS ITSELF ALSO MUST BE CLEARANCED, EASILY DONE WITH THE PLASMA CUTTER.

[ TORCH CUTTING ] [ GRINDER SPINNING ]

(IAN)>> FIRST PROBLEM SOLVED, NEW PROBLEM DISCOVERED. I LIKE HOW EVERYTHING IS NOW TUCKING UP GOOD AND TIGHT. THE PUMPKIN IS ACTUALLY FITTING PERFECTLY IN

BETWEEN OUR MOTOR AND OUR FACTORY FRAME RAIL. SO NOW WITH THAT TRIMMING DONE WE KNOW THE SUSPENSION IS ALMOST FULLY COMPRESSED WHERE I WANT IT.

THE PROBLEM NOW IS WITH EVERYTHING IN PLACE IT'S PRETTY OBVIOUS. THERE IS NO WAY I'M GONNA BE ABLE TO FIT AN UPPER LINK DOWN FROM THE TOP OF THIS TRUSS, PAST THAT

MOTOR MOUNT, AND BACK DOWN TO THE FRAME RAIL. NOW THE PROBLEM THERE IS THERE'S NO

REAL EASY SOLUTION. YEAH I COULD MAKE THE TRUCK TALLER AND PUSH THE AXLE FORWARD. DON'T WANT TO DO THAT IF YOU REMEMBER. I COULD THEN GO AHEAD AND MAYBE CUT THE MOTOR MOUNT LOOSE, STUFF THE MOTOR UP THROUGH THE HOOD, AND I DON'T WANT TO DO THAT BECAUSE THAT'S JUST GONNA RUIN THE TRUCK.

SO AT THIS POINT THE RIGHT DECISION IS TO COMPLETELY REDESIGN THE FRONT SUSPENSION. INSTEAD OF A DOUBLE TRIANGULATED FOUR LINK I'M GONNA RUN A SINGLE LOWER LINK ON THE PASSENGER SIDE.

I'LL PUT AN UPPER AND A LOWER LINK ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE AND THEN RUN A PAN HARD BAR ACROSS THE FRONT. THAT WILL CREATE WHAT'S CALLED A THREE LINK SUSPENSION. IT'LL STILL FLEX A LOT BUT IT ELIMINATES THE UPPER LINK ON THIS ONE SIDE, GIVING ME THE SPACE THAT I NEED.

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP, MAKING ROOM FOR OUR REDESIGNED FRONT SUSPENSION.

[ SAW CUTTING ]

(IAN)>> TODAY ON XTREME I'M TRYING TO GET DISCOUNT DATSUN INTO A ROLLING CHASSIS STATE, BUT TO MAKE ROOM FOR THE FRONT AXLE I HAVE A PILE OF CUTTING TO DO. THE TRUSS IS MODIFIED TO CLEAR THE ENGINE AT FULL COMPRESSION.

WOO!

[ WELDER CRACKLING ]

(IAN)>> LINK MOUNTS ARE ADDED TO THE FRAME, AS WELL AS THE AXLE FOR THE TWO LOWER LINKS AND THE SINGLE UPPER.

[ WELDER CRACKLING ]

(IAN)>> THERE'S A FEW THINGS YOU NEED TO KEEP IN MIND IF YOU'RE BUILDING A THREE LINK SUSPENSION WITH A PAN HARD BAR. AS THE SUSPENSION CYCLES, THIS AXLE IS GONNA SWING IN THIS SAME ARC THAT THAT PAN HARD BAR SWINGS IN BECAUSE IT'S FIXED AT ONE END OF THE AXLE AND AT THE OPPOSITE END OF THE FRAME. SO IF YOU HAVE REAL STUBBY SHORT PAN HARD BAR, THAT MEANS THE AXLE'S GONNA MOVE A LOT

UNDERNEATH THE TRUCK. THEREFORE, WE WANT TO MAKE THE BAR AS LONG AS WE PHYSICALLY CAN, AND IDEALLY IT SHOULD BE FAIRLY LEVEL WHEN THE VEHICLE'S AT RIDE HEIGHT. NOW THAT'S PRETTY SIMPLE.

WE JUST NEED TO PUT A MOUNT DOWN HERE ON OUR AXLE, BUT UP HERE THERE'S NOTHING TO MOUNT TO.

I CAN'T MOUNT IT TO THE SHEET METAL FENDER, THAT'S NOT GONNA HOLD. SO I NEED TO ADD SOME TUBE WORK OUT THE FRONT OF THE TRUCK IN ORDER TO BUILD THAT MOUNT, BUT FIRST WE'RE GONNA JACK THIS UP TO CLOSE TO RIDE HEIGHT.

FOR THE AXLE BRACKET I'M USING AN UNIVERSAL PAN HARD BAR BRACKET, AND TRIMMING IT TO FIT AROUND OUR TRUSS. [ GRINDER SPINNING ] [ WELDER CRACKLING ] [ SAW CUTTING ]

(IAN)>> JUST LIKE THE REAR, I'M CUTTING THE FRAME RAILS AT AN ANGLE FOR TUBING THAT WILL ATTACH TO THE NEW FRONT TUBE BUMPER.

[ WELDER CRACKLING ]

(IAN)>> THE FRAME SIDE PAN HARD BAR MOUNT IS THEN CUT FROM SOME THREESIXTEENTHS INCH STEEL, AND THE EDWARDS IRON WORKER MAKES ADDING THE MOUNTING HOLES EASY AS PIE. THE MOUNTING BRACKET GETS TACKED TO THE TUBE, GUSSETED, AND THE SUSPENSION IS CYCLED. [ GRINDER SPINNING ]

(IAN)>> SHOCK MOUNTS ARE NEXT. FRONT TUBES ATTACHED TO THE FIRE WALL AND LOCK INTO THE NEW FRONT BUMPER, ALONG WITH A CROSS TUBE THAT WILL MOUNT THE SHOCKS. [ SAW CUTTING ]

[ WELDER CRACKLING ] [ GRINDER SPINNING ]

(IAN)>> LOWER MOUNTS ARE TACKED ONTO THE INNERC'S, UPPER MOUNTS ARE WELDED TO THE CHASSIS.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT IT'S AFFORDABLE, EFFICIENT, AND ONE OF THE BEST TOOLS TO HAVE IN ANY FAB SHOP.

(ANNOUNCER)>> WELDING TECH IS FUELED BY ESAB, MAKER OF THE ALL NEW REBEL AND OFFICIAL WELDING AND CUTTING SUPPLIER OF XTREME OFF ROAD.

(IAN)>> LAST TIME WE HAD AN INITIAL LOOK AT THE OXY FUELED TORCH KIT. HOW TO PROPERLY SET IT UP AND START CUTTING SOME STEEL ON YOUR OWN.

NOW EVEN THOUGH THE OXY FUEL TORCH IS NOT THE MOST HIGH TECH CUTTING OPTION YOU HAVE AT YOUR DISPOSAL IN A HARDCORE OFF ROAD FAB SHOP, THERE ARE SOME TIMES WHEN IT IS THE BEST TOOL FOR THE JOB. WHEN DEALING WITH THICK MATERIAL, LIKE THREEEIGHTHS OF AN INCH OR LARGER, IT'S ALWAYS BEST TO USE A MULTIPASS WELD TO ENSURE PROPER PENETRATION INTO THE JOINT. THIS REQUIRES THE STEEL TO BE CUT AND THEN GROUND TO PRODUCE A BEVEL. THIS IS A VERY TIME CONSUMING PROCESS. BUT INSTEAD OF CUTTING THE THICK MATERIAL WITH AN IRON WORKER OR EVEN A CUTOFF WHEEL ON A HAND GRINDER AT 90 DEGREES AND THEN GRINDING THE BEVEL INTO THE STEEL, THERE IS A WAY TO CUT THE MATERIAL AND GET THE BEVEL IN PLACE IN ONE SHOT, AND IT'S DONE WITH THE OXY FUEL TORCH. INSTEAD OF CUTTING WITH THE TORCH 90 DEGREES TO THE WORK PIECE, WE SIMPLY ANGLE THE HEAD OF THE TORCH WHILE WE CUT.

THAT WAY WE ARE SEVERING THE PLATE AND INTRODUCING A BEVEL. WITH THE FUEL AND OXYGEN ADJUSTED FOR THE THICKER MATERIAL, THE TORCH IS LIT AND THE CUT BEGINS. THERE IS A LOT OF HEAT GENERATED WHILE CUTTING THICK PLATE.

SO ANGLE THE TORCH INTO THE LEADING EDGE OF THE CUT TO ENSURE THAT THE HEAT FROM THE CUTTING FLAME IS TRANSFERRED FURTHER DOWN ONTO THE PLATE. THEN SOME SLIGHT GRINDING IS NEEDED TO REMOVE THE SLAG FROM THE MATERIAL. NOW RIGHT NOW THIS JOINT IS FULLY PREPPED AND READY TO LAY DOWN A GOOD ROOT PASS AND TWO COVERING PASSES OVER IT.

NOW WE'RE ONLY WORKING WITH THREEEIGHTHS INCH THICK STEEL HERE, BUT IF YOU CAN IMAGINE HAVING TO PUT A BEVEL INTO A THICK PIECE OF MATERIAL. AND YOU HAVE TO REMEMBER, THE VICTOR 350 TORCH CAN

CUT UP TO SIX INCH THICK STEEL. SO IF YOUR WERE WORKING IN A HEAVY FAB ENVIRONMENT WITH MAYBE A PIECE OF THREE INCH THICK PLATE AND YOU NEED TO BEVEL IT, IF YOU DON'T WANT TO SPEND ALL DAY GRINDING, BEING ABLE TO CUT THE BEVEL INTO THE PLATE IS A HUGE TIME SAVER. ANOTHER AREA WHERE THE OXY FUEL TORCH SHINES IS ON SOMETHING LIKE THIS. A RUSTY OLD AXLE YOU'VE PULLED OUT OF A JUNKYARD. YOU WANT TO STRIP IT TO BARE TUBES TO BUILD YOUR CUSTOM SUSPENSION. NOW YEAH, YOU COULD CUT ALL THESE BRACKETS OFF WITH AN ANGLE GRINDER AND A CUTOFF WHEEL BUT TRUST ME, THE TORCH IS A LOT FASTER. HOW MUCH FASTER? WATCH THIS! WITH THE TORCH LIT, I CAN EASILY MANIPULATE THE

FLAME AROUND THE BRACKETS USING THE AXLE TUBE AS A GUIDE FOR THE HEAD OF THE TORCH. WITH A CUTOFF WHEEL I HAVE TO FIGHT THE SHAPE OF THE WHEEL AND THE BODY OF THE GRINDER WHILE CUTTING.

MUCH SLOWER, NOISIER, AND A LOT MESSIER

THAN A GOOD OLE TORCH. PLUS THERE IS ONE MORE BENEFIT TO USING THE TORCH. NO MATTER HOW YOU CUT THESE BRACKETS OFF THERE WILL ALWAYS BE SOME RESIDUAL WELDS LEFT IN PLACE. I COULD GRIND THESE BUT THE TORCH GIVES ME A SHORTCUT. ONCE AGAIN, USING THE AXLE TUBE AS A GUIDE, I RUN THE TORCH FLAME PARALLEL TO THE TUBE AND SLOWLY MELT AWAY THE EXCESS WELD, BRINGING IT FLUSH TO THE AXLE.

THE LONG NOSE OF THE CUTTING TIP ON THE TORCH AND THE SMALL HEAD ALLOWS ME TO GET EXTREMELY TIGHT TO THE TUBE. THIS TYPE OF CUTTING DOES PRODUCE A LOT OF SLAG BUT IT'S GONNA CUT MY GRINDING TIME ALMOST IN HALF ON THIS PARTICULAR AXLE HOUSING. I USE A SIMILAR PROCEDURE WHEN I'M REMOVING BRACKETS OFF OF A FRAME BUILDING A CUSTOM SUSPENSION. JUST GOES TO SHOW YOU HOW VERSATILE THE OXY FUEL TORCH CAN BE.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, FINAL ASSEMBLY OF DISCOUNT DATSUN'S DRIVETRAIN.

(IAN)>> COMPLETELY REDESIGNING THE FRONT SUSPENSION IN OUR TRUCK ADDED A PILE OF EXTRA FAB WORK ON OUR FRONT AXLE, BUT IT'S ALL WELL WORTH IT NOW THAT IT'S DONE. THIS WILL KEEP THE CENTER OF GRAVITY NICE AND LOW ON OUR TRUCK, MAKE IT GOOD AND STABLE OFF ROAD. NOW THAT ALL THE WELDING IS FINISHED AND THE AXLE HAS HAD TIME TO COOL DOWN, I AM READY TO BEGIN FINAL ASSEMBLY WITH THE GEAR SET, OUR WELDED CARRIER, AND ALL OUR SHAFTS. IT STARTS BY INSTALLING THE 5.38 YUKON RING GEAR

ONTO THE WELDED CARRIER.

THE PINION IS THEN DROPPED INTO THE HOUSING AND SETUP BEARINGS ARE INSTALLED ONTO THE DIFFERENTIAL

CARRIER WITH NO SHIMS.

SIDE CLEARANCE IS THEN CHECKED AND ONCE THE CORRECT SHIM PACK VALUE IS DETERMINED, THE ORIGINAL BEARINGS ARE INSTALLED ONTO THE DIFF.

ONE FINAL BACKLASH CHECK AND THE SETUP BEARINGS ARE SWAPPED FOR THE ORIGINAL SIDE BEARINGS.

THE YOKE IS THEN INSTALLED ONTO THE PINION. PINION ROTATIONAL LOAD IS THEN SET BY ADDING THE CORRECT AMOUNT OF SHIMS ONTO THE PINION AND THE CARRIER IS INSTALLED FOR GOOD.

THE WEAK LINK IN THIS FRONT AXLE WILL

BE THE AXLE JOINTS. SO INSTEAD OF REUSING THE ORIGINAL UNIT I PICKED UP SOME HEAVY DUTY FACTORY REPLACEMENTS FROM ROCK AUTO DOT COM.

AND WITH THE OLD JOINT REMOVED, THE NEW SHORT SIDE AXLE IS PREPPED ALONG WITH THE STOCK STUB AXLE. UJOINT CAPS ARE TAPPED INTO PLACE AND PRESSED HOME USING THE VICE, FOLLOWED BY THE RETAINING CLIPS. THE COMPLETED AXLE IS THEN INSTALLED INTO THE HOUSING ALONG WITH OUR ORIGINAL UNIBEARING, AND THE YUKON DRIVE FLANGES FINISH EVERYTHING UP.

WITH THE DIFF COVER ON THE FRONT AXLE IS THEN CLEANED AND PAINTED AS WELL AS THE REAR.

QUARTER INCH WALL DOM LINKS ARE INSTALLED BOTH FRONT AND REAR, AND THIS SUSPENSION BUILD IS DONE.

I SET A PRETTY LOFTY GOAL TODAY BY SAYING I WAS GOING TO HAVE THE TRUCK OFF THE LIFT AS A TRUE ROLLING CHASSIS, AND THAT KINDA ALL WHEN OUT THE

WINDOW WHEN I HAD TO COMPLETELY REDESIGN THE FRONT SUSPENSION, BUT I'VE GOT TO SAY. EVEN JUST HAVING BOTH AXLES IN THE TRUCK, SHOCKS IN PLACE, IT ALL ARTICULATED UP, SEEING HOW MUCH FLEX WE'RE GONNA GET OUT OF THIS TINY LITTLE DATSUN PICK UP TRUCK, ALL THIS WORK, WELL WORTH IT.