Project Hocus Focus: Roll Cage

(ANNOUNCER)>> THE INTERIOR OF OUR RALLY CAR STILL LOOKS LIKE IT BELONGS IN THE CAR POOL LANE BUT WE'LL BE READY TO RACE ONCE WE RIP OUT THE PLASTIC AND REPLACE IT WITH 60 FEET OF ROLL CAGE. PLUS HIGH TECH CONTROLS FOR THE CRAWLER HAULER'S AIR SUSPENSION, AND TIPS TO MAKE OVERHEAD WELDING EASIER.

(IAN)>> WHOO, YEAH! PROJECT HOCUS FOCUS BACK IN THE

XTREME OFF ROAD SHOP. AND I'VE GOT TO TELL YOU, I AM FALLING IN LOVE WITH THIS LITTLE FORD FOCUS THAT WE'RE TURNING INTO OUR FIRST EVER FULL BLOWN RALLY RACE CAR. NOW I'VE ALREADY UPGRADED THE SUSPENSION WITH NEW SHOCKS, SPRINGS, STRUTS, AND SWAY BARS. AND I'VE REBUILT THE BRAKES AND TUNED UP THE ENGINE, AND ADDED A PERFORMANCE EXHAUST SYSTEM. NOW TODAY IS WHERE THIS CAR MAKES ITS BIGGEST TRANSFORMATION.

I'M GONNA BE GUTTING THE INTERIOR AND BUILDING A

CUSTOM ROLL CAGE TO MAKE THIS CAR RALLY LEGAL. NOW WHEN YOU'RE BUILDING A CUSTOM CAGE ON A RACE CAR LIKE THIS YOU DON'T JUST START BENDING TUBING.

THE FIRST STEP IS TO TAKE A LOOK AT THE RULE BOOK. AND WHEN I DID I REALIZED IT ALL STARTS BY WEIGHING THE CAR. I'M USING A SET OF VEHICLE SCALES FROM INTERCOM TO GET THE TOTAL WEIGHT OF OUR CAR. THERE DOESN'T HAVE TO BE A DRIVER OR CODRIVER INSIDE, BUT THE FUEL TANK HAS TO BE FULL OF FUEL. AFTER PLACING A PAD UNDERNEATH EACH TIRE, WE CALCULATE THE TOTAL WEIGHT, 2,604 POUNDS. THE RULE BOOK IS VERY IMPORTANT WHEN YOU'RE BUILDING A CAGE FOR AN ACTUAL RACE CAR. WHEN YOU'RE BUILDING A TRAIL TRUCK OR A TUBE BUGGY, THE DESIGN IS PRETTY MUCH UP TO YOU. BUT WHEN YOU'RE DEALING WITH A SANCTIONING BODY, THEY'LL HAVE A VERY SPECIFIC WAY THEY WANT THE CAGE DESIGNED. NOW THE NICE THING ABOUT THE NASA RALLY SPORT

RULE BOOK IS IT GIVES YOU DIFFERENT OPTIONS DEPENDING ON WHAT IS GOING TO WORK BEST FOR YOUR CAR. YOU CAN USUALLY CHOOSE ONE OF THREE OR FOUR OPTIONS THAT'LL FIT INTO YOUR VEHICLE THE BEST. THE REASON THAT WE WEIGHED THE CAR IS BECAUSE THAT DETERMINES THE SIZE OF THE TUBING THAT WE'RE GONNA BE

USING TO BUILD THE CAGE OUT OF. BECAUSE WE WEIGH LESS THAN 2,650 POUNDS, THE MAIN STRUCTURAL COMPONENTS OF OUR CAGE CAN BE BUILT OUT OF INCH AND ONE HALF .120 WALL TUBING. AND THE SMALLER REENFORCEMENT BARS CAN BE MADE OUT OF .095 DOM. NOW THE REASON THAT'S IMPORTANT IS BECAUSE THAT'LL KEEP OUR CAGE NICE AND LIGHT BUT STILL KEEP US SAFE.

BECAUSE REMEMBER, THE MORE TUBES WE HAVE, THE

HEAVIER THE CAR GETS. THE HEAVIER THE CAR GETS, THE SLOWER WE'RE GONNA GO. TO BUILD THE CAGE THE ENTIRE INTERIOR NEEDS TO BE GUTTED.

SEATS FRONT AND REAR, ALL THE TRIM PIECES, CARPET, AND THE DASH HAVE TO GO. AFTER TAKING A LOOK INSIDE THE COMPLETELY GUTTED BODY OF OUR FOCUS, WE DECIDED THAT THE BEST OPTION FOR THE BODY STYLE OF OUR CAR IS TO USE A CAGE WITH A MAIN HOOP DESIGN, AND FRONT AND REAR SPREADERS TO MAKE INSTALLATION A LOT EASIER. WE'LL DRAW THE CAGE IN BEND TECH PRO AND START BY BENDING THE MAIN HOOP AND PLACING IT INSIDE THE CAR.

ONE OF THE REASONS I CHOSE THIS PARTICULAR TYPE OF ROLL CAGE FOR THIS CAR IS BECAUSE THERE'S AN EASY WAY TO GET TO THE TOP SIDE OF THE JOINTS TO MAKE SURE THAT THEY'RE FULLY WELDED. NOW WITH JUST THIS HOOP AND THIS FRONT BAR I CAN EASILY GET TO THE TOP SIDE OF THIS NOTCH RIGHT HERE. BUT WHEN IT COMES TIME TO INSTALL THE ROOF BARS AND THE FRONT CROSSER, THERE'S NO WAY I'M GONNA BE ABLE TO GET TO THE TOP OF THIS JOINT. NOW YOU DON'T WANT TO JUST MOVE THE CAGE AWAY FROM THE BODY TO GET TO THAT JOINT. THE RULES SPECIFICALLY SAY THE CAGE HAS TO BE AS CLOSE TO THE BODY AS YOU CAN GET IT. BUT THERE IS A TRICK THAT MAKES THIS A LOT EASIER. I'M GONNA MARK THE LOCATION OF ALL FOUR OF THESE MAIN STRUCTURE BARS ON THE FLOOR. I'M GONNA HOLE SAW A HOLE INCH AND THREE QUARTER ROUND, AND THAT WAY I CAN DROP THE ENTIRE CAGE DOWN THROUGH THE FLOOR, MAKING IT EASIER TO GET TO THE TOP SIDE OF ALL THE JOINTS. THEN I'LL JACK THE CAGE BACK UP, SLIDE THE FLOOR PLATES UNDERNEATH AND WELD THEM IN. THAT'S A VERY COMMON WAY TO BUILD A CAGE INSIDE A RACE CAR LIKE THIS. MORE PLATES ARE CUT FROM EIGHTH INCH PLATE, AND PLACED UNDER EACH OF TUBING WHERE IT CONTACTS THE BODY OF THE CAR. NASA RALLY SPORT PREFERS WELDING THESE PLATES TO THE BODY, BUT THEY WILL ALLOW YOU TO BOLT IT IF YOU PREFER. ONCE THE HOOP, FRONT BARS, AND ROOF CROSS MEMBERS ARE TACKED INTO PLACE, WE LOWER THE CAGE DOWN,

WELD IT UP AND JACK IT BACK UP INTO PLACE. [ welder crackling ]

(IAN)>> OUR FLOOR PLATES ARE MADE OUT OF EIGHTH INCH PLATE STEEL, AND THEY ARE A MINIMUM SIZE OF 12 SQUARE INCHES. WE'LL SLIDE THE FLOOR PLATES IN AND TACK THEM TO THE FOCUS' FLOOR.

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP, RACE APPROVED SEATS AND ROLL CAGE UPGRADES TO MAKE SURE WE PASS THE TECH CHECK.

(IAN)>> WITH THE MAIN PORTION OF OUR CAGE BACK UP INTO PLACE, THE NEXT TUBES WE'RE GONNA ADD ARE THE MAIN BAR THAT RUNS ACROSS THE HOOP, THE SEAL BARS, AND THE DOOR BARS. AND THE LOCATIONS OF ALL OF THOSE RELY ON THE

POSITION OF THE DRIVER'S AND PASSENGER'S SEAT. NOW WHEN YOU'RE SHOPPING FOR SEATS FOR A RACE CAR YOU'RE NOT LOOKING FOR A LOT OF BELLS AND WHISTLES. YOU'RE LOOKING FOR A SEAT JUST LIKE THIS SPARCO SEAT THAT WE GOT FROM SUMMIT RACING. IT'S A SMALL FIXED BACK SEAT SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR ROAD RACING.

IT'S NOT TOO LARGE, SO IT'LL FIT GREAT INSIDE OF OUR FOCUS, AND IT HAS EVERYTHING THAT WE NEED. JUST ENOUGH PADDING TO MAKE IT COMFORTABLE AND PROVISIONS FOR A FIVE POINT HARNESS. THE NICE THING IS IS THE SEAT IS INCREDIBLY LIGHT, AND THAT IS WHAT YOU'RE AFTER WHEN YOU'RE SHOPPING FOR A RACE SEAT. THERE IS ONE MORE THING THAT YOU NEED TO

HAVE ON A RACE SEAT. YOU NEED TO CHECK WITH YOUR SANCTIONING BODY AND FIND OUT WHAT CERTIFICATIONS THEY REQUIRE. ALL RACE SEATS WILL BE CERTIFIED BY SOME TYPE OF SANCTIONING BODY AND THEY WILL HAVE A STICKER ON THE SIDE TO TELL YOU THAT IT'S BEEN TESTED AND PASSED. IF YOU DON'T HAVE THAT STICKER ON THE SEAT, YOU WILL NOT BE ALLOWED TO RACE.

AND THESE ONES ARE PERFECT FOR OUR SANCTIONING BODY, NASA RALLY SPORT. ALL I HAVE TO DO NOW IS GET THESE SEATS INTO

POSITION, SET THEM CORRECT DISTANCE FROM THE DASH, MAKE SURE I HAVE LOTS OF HEAD ROOM, AND THEN WE CAN START ADDING MORE TUBES.

USING SOME MORE INCH AND A HALF DOM .120 WALL TUBING, THE SEAL BARS ARE CUT, NOTCHED, AND TACKED INTO PLACE. THE RULES STATE THAT THESE BARS MUST NOT BE HIGHER THAN FOUR INCHES ABOVE THE DOOR SEAL. THE LOCATION FOR THE MAIN HOOP HORIZONTAL BAR IS RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE BEND AT THE CENTER OF THE BPILLAR. THEN SEAT MOUNTS ARE BUILT BY ADDING CROSS BARS BETWEEN THE SEAL BARS AND THE SEAT IS TEST FITTED IN PLACE. RULES REQUIRE A FULL DASH TO BE IN THE CAR. SO AFTER CLEARANCING OURS FOR THE TUBING, IT'S REINSTALLED INTO THE CAR. A DASH BAR AND DOOR BARS ARE THEN BUILT. [ welder crackling ]

(IAN)>> AND THE CAGE IS FINISHED OFF BY BUILDING REAR HOOP DIAGONAL BARS. [ welder crackling ]

(IAN)>> WE'LL CUT SOME FLOOR PLATES TO ANCHOR THE BACK OF OUR CAGE. ADD THE REAR BACK STAYS THAT TRAVEL FROM THE MAIN

HOOP DOWN TO THOSE PLATES, AND FINISH IT ALL OFF WITH SOME DIAGONAL BACK STAY BRACES. EVEN THOUGH WE'VE ADDED ALMOST 60 FEET OF INCH AND HALF DOM INSIDE OUR FOCUS, THIS CAGE IS NOT RACE READY QUITE YET. YEAH THE MAJORITY OF THE MAIN COMPONENTS ARE THERE. WE'VE GOT THE DOOR BARS, THE BIG "X" FOR STRENGTH,

A HOOP HAS AN "X" IN THE MIDDLE OF IT FOR STRENGTH, AND OUR LATERAL BACK STAYS NOW HAVE TRIANGULATED

TUBES THAT TIE INTO OUR ROOF BARS. BUT THE RULES STIPULATE THAT WE NEED SOME GUSSETS IN SOME VERY SPECIFIC LOCATIONS. NOW THE DIAGRAM WILL SHOW YOU WHERE THEY NEED TO GO DEPENDING ON WHICH TYPE OF CAGE YOU CHOSE TO PUT IN YOUR CAR. THEY GIVE YOUR THREE OPTIONS FOR THE GUSSETS. YOU CAN USE THESE SMALL SHEET METAL TYPE SADDLE GUSSETS, YOU CAN USE SOME FLAT PLATE TO MAKE THE GUSSET OUT OF, OR YOU CAN EVEN USE TUBING. IT'S JUST UP TO YOU DEPENDING ON HOW YOU WANT TO BUILD YOUR CAGE. NOW THERE IS ONE MORE TUBE THAT I HAVE TO ADD, AND I'M NOT REAL FOND OF IT, BUT THE RULES SAY I NEED TO TAKE A TUBE FROM THIS UPPER JOINT AND TAKE IT ALL THE WAY DOWN TO THE BOTTOM MOUNT DOWN BY THAT FRONT FOOT. NOW IT'S NOT REALLY GONNA FLOW WITH THE REST OF THE CAGE. IT'S ACTUALLY GONNA BREAK UP THIS HORIZONTAL LINE HERE QUITE SHARPLY, BUT A CAGE SCRUTINEER ISN'T REALLY INTERESTED IN THE STYLE OF YOUR CAGE. THEY'VE DESIGNED YOUR CAGE TO BE SAFE, AND THEY NEED IT BUILT SPECIFICALLY HOW THEY TELL YOU TO DO IT. SO THEY SAY I NEED THIS TUBE, I'VE GOT TO PUT IT IN.

[ welder crackling ]

(IAN)>> OUR GUSSETS WILL BE MADE OUT OF EIGHTH INCH PLATE STEEL. TO LIGHTEN THEM UP A LITTLE WE'LL PUNCH A HOLE IN IT, ADD A DIMPLE DYE FOR STRENGTH, AND TACK THEM INTO PLACE. AND I'LL ADD A SINGLE TUBE GUSSET TO EITHER SIDE FROM THE MAIN HOOP TO THE ROOF BAR MADE OUT OF TUBING. WITH ALL OF OUR GUSSETS IN PLACE NOW, AND NORMALLY I'D THROW A WELDING HOOD ON, CLIMB INSIDE THE CAR, AND FULLY WELD THIS CAGE INTO PLACE, BUT I DON'T WANT TO DO THAT. BECAUSE I'M BUILDING THIS FOR A SPECIFIC TYPE OF RACING, I NEED TO TAKE A WHOLE BUNCH OF PICTURES OF MY CAGE AND HAVE THEM SIGN OFF ON IT BEFORE I FULLY WELD IT. THAT WAY I KNOW I'M NOT WELDING IN A CAGE THAT THEY'RE GONNA ASK ME TO MAKE CHANGES TO. NOW YOU CAN SEE THAT BUILDING A ROLL CAGE FOR A SPECIFIC SANCTIONING BODY OR TYPE OF RACING IS A LOT DIFFERENT THAN BUILDING A TUBE BUGGY OR EVEN A ROCK CRAWLER CAGE. BUT IN THE END IT'S STILL JUST A BUNCH OF TUBING, A BUNCH OF NOTCHES, AND A PILE OF WELDING.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, GET CLEAN, STRONG BEADS ON OVERHEAD WELDS.

(IAN)>> CONTINUING WITH OUR INTERMEDIATE WELDING

SERIES, TODAY WE'RE GONNA TALK ABOUT PROBABLY THE MOST DIFFICULT JOINT YOU'LL EVER DO WHEN YOU'RE DEALING WITH OFF ROAD VEHICLE FABRICATION, AND THAT IS THE OVER HEAD MIG WELD. NOW THE REASON IT'S SO HARD IS CAUSE USUALLY

YOU'RE LAYING ON YOUR BACK, YOU'VE GOT A BRACKET SLID OVER A FRAME RAIL, AND YOU'RE WELDING COMPLETELY OUT OF POSITION. THE GOOD NEWS IS IS THIS WELD JOINT IS NOT THAT HARD TO MASTER IF YOU SPEND TIME PRACTICING. AND THE BEST WAY TO PRACTICE IS JUST WITH SOME SCRAP TUBING SET UP ON A BENCH AT A COMFORTABLE HEIGHT SO YOU CAN GET THAT TORCH POSITION CORRECT.

BUT BEFORE YOU BEGIN WIELDING YOU DO HAVE TO MAKE SOME CHANGES TO THE FRONT OF THE TORCH. WE WANT A MINIMUM AMOUNT OF STICK OUT WHEN OVERHEAD WELDING. NOW THAT REFERS TO THE AMOUNT OF WIRE THAT'S

PROTRUDING FROM THE WELDING TIP. NOW IN ORDER TO LESSEN THAT AMOUNT WE ACTUALLY HAVE TO SHORTEN THE NOZZLE. WHEN YOU'RE OVERHEAD WELDING, YOU WANT THE EDGE OF THE NOZZLE TO BE FLUSH WITH THE TIP. SO WE'RE JUST GONNA TAKE THIS ONE OFF AND TRIM IT BACK. [ grinder spinning ]

(IAN)>> NOW THE NEXT STEP IS TO DO A DRY RUN OF THE WELD BEAD THAT YOU PLAN TO MAKE. NOW THE POSITION OF THE TORCH IS THE SAME AS FLAT PLATE FROM ABOVE BUT YOU ARE WORKING UPSIDE DOWN. JUST GO AHEAD, GET YOUR HAND AND BURY IT IN THE

MATERIAL, AND PUT THE TORCH RIGHT INTO THE NOTCH OF THAT JOINT. AND JUST PRACTICE MOVING IT ALL THE WAY DOWN. THAT WAY YOU'LL KNOW IF YOU'RE GONNA GET BOUND UP AT A CERTAIN SPOT. YOU MAY NEED TO FLIP THE TORCH AROUND AND POSSIBLY MAYBE EVEN SWITCH HANDS TO BE ABLE TO KEEP IT IN THE

CORRECT POSITION FOR THE ENTIRE RUN. JUST MAKE A COUPLE OF MOVEMENTS, SEE WHICH ONE WORKS BEST FOR YOU. ONCE YOU'RE HAPPY WITH ONE, YOU CAN TURN THE MACHINE ON AND RUN A BEAD. THE MACHINE NEEDS TO BE ADJUSTED SLIGHTLY HOTTER FOR OVERHEAD MIG WELDING. THEN YOU'RE GONNA WANNA WEAR SOME EAR PLUGS TO KEEP THE SPATTER OUT OF YOUR EARS, AND A WELDING CAP TO PROTECT YOUR HEAD. SPATTER CAN BUILD UP ON THE TIP AND THE NOZZLE WHEN OVERHEAD WELDING. SO BEFORE YOU START IT'S A GOOD IDEA TO GIVE IT A GOOD COAT OF TIP DIP. THEN JUST SPEND TIME PRACTICING DIFFERENT TYPES OF BEADS. DRY RUN EACH ONE, AND THEN WELD IT. ONCE YOUR WELDING IS PROFICIENT AT A COMFORTABLE STANDING POSITION, GO AHEAD AND TRY WELDING OUT OF POSITION BY LAYING ON THE FLOOR. ALL THIS PRACTICE WILL JUST IMPROVE YOUR WELDING.

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP AN AIR SUSPENSION THAT'S Wi-Fi READY!

(IAN)>> FROM THE SMALLEST PROJECT WE'RE WORKING ON THIS YEAR TO THE BIGGEST PROJECT IN THE XTREME OFF ROAD SHOP. WHILE WE WAIT TO HEAR BACK ABOUT THE ROLL CAGE DESIGN IN OUR RALLY CAR, WE'RE GONNA JUMP BACK ON OUR ISUZU CAB OVER CRAWLER HAULER PROJECT. NOW THIS TRUCK HAS UNDERGONE A LOT OF CHANGES SINCE WE FIRST ROLLED IT INTO THE SHOP. TODAY WE'RE GONNA START BY WORKING IN THE CAB. THE PROJECT ALL STARTED WITH A SIMPLE IDEA.

BUILD A HAULING RIG THAT WOULD PAY TRIBUTE TO THE TFOUR/TFIVE CAMIONS THAT RACE IN THE CLASSIC DAKAR RALLY! AFTER TEARING OUR TRUCK DOWN, I SWAPPED IN A SET OF FORD SUPER DUTY AXLES ALONG WITH A SIX BT CUMMINS ENGINE, ALLISON TRANSMISSION, AND A NEW TRANSFER CASE. THEN THE FAB WORK BEGAN. A CUSTOM 15 FOOT FLAT BED WAS BUILT AND THE REAR SUSPENSION WAS REDESIGNED WITH A SET OF HEAVY DUTY AIR BAGS.

INSIDE THIS CAB ALL THE STOCK SEATS ARE GOING TO HAVE TO GO IN ORDER TO MAKE ROOM FOR SOME CUSTOM BUCKETS. WE'RE GONNA REPLACE OUR STOCK SEATS WITH THREE

INDIVIDUAL BUCKET SEATS THAT WE GOT

FROM SUMMIT RACING.

NOW YOU MAY THINK IT'S A LITTLE BIT WEIRD TO HAVE THREE SEATS IN THE FRONT OF OUR CRAWLER HAULER. BUT IF YOU LOOK AT THE TRUCK'S THAT INSPIRED THIS BUILD, THOSE TRUCKS WILL QUITE OFTEN HAVE THREE RACE SEATS MOUNTED IN THEM. ONE FOR THE DRIVER AND TWO CODRIVERS. NOW THESE AREN'T FULL BLOWN RACE SEATS. THEY'RE JUST A GOOD, HIGH QUALITY RECLINER SEAT THAT HAS SOME RACING STYLE TO IT. IT'S GOT HIGH BOLSTERS ON THE SIDE AND PROVISIONS IN THE BACK FOR A FIVE POINT HARNESS. I LIKE THEM BECAUSE THEY HAVE A SMALL FRAME. SO WE CAN FIT THREE OF THEM IN OUR TRUCK AND THEY'RE GOOD AND COMFORTABLE. THE SEATS COME WITH TRACKS PREINSTALLED. SO TO MOUNT THEM TO OUR TRUCK ALL WE NEED TO DO IS CUT SOME RISERS OUT OF SOME TUBING, DRILL SOME HOLES IN THE FLOOR, BOLT OUR SEATS INTO PLACE.

I'M NOT GONNA ADD A BUNCH OF BELLS AND WHISTLES INSIDE THE CAB OF OUR ISUZU. THOSE THREE SEATS WILL PRETTY MUCH BE ABOUT IT. WHILE I'M IN THERE THOUGH I WANT TO START RUNNING SOME OF THE WIRING FOR THE AIR SYSTEM FOR THE BAGS ON THE BACK OF OUR TRUCK. NOW I GOT A COMPLETE KIT FROM ACCUWARE. IT'S THEIR NEW EYE LEVEL SYSTEM.

IT COMES WITH TWO VIAIRE AIR COMPRESSORS THAT'LL FILL THIS SMALL COMPRESSED AIR TANK THAT WE'LL MOUNT UNDERNEATH THE BED. THE SYSTEM THE SYSTEM IS WHAT'S CALLED A SMART SYSTEM.

SO IT ACTUALLY HAS THESE SENSORS THAT'LL MOUNT ON THE REAR FOUR LINK TO TELL THE COMPUTER WHETHER THE TRUCK IS FULLY LAID OUT OR THE BAGS ARE FULLY INFLATED. WHAT'S REALLY UNIQUE IS THAT IT ACTUALLY USES WIRELESS TECHNOLOGY. THIS SMALL RECEIVER WILL MOUNT INSIDE THE CAB OF OUR TRUCK, AND WE'LL BE ABLE TO RUN OUR SYSTEM FROM AN APP ON OUR SMART PHONE. I'LL BE ABLE TO TELL HOW HIGH THE TRUCK IS SITTING, WHETHER OR NOT WE NEED TO FILL THE BAGS WITH SOME MORE AIR TO GET IT SITTING NICE AND LEVEL. THE COOL THING IS WHEN WE DON'T WANT TO RUN IT BY OUR SMART PHONE, WE CAN SIMPLY RUN IT BY ONE ROCKER SWITCH MOUNTED IN THE DASH. THE SWITCH WILL INSTALL IN AN EXISTING HOLE IN THE DASH.

I'LL MOUNT THE COMPUTER BEHIND THE DRIVER'S SEAT KEEPING IT OUT OF THE WEATHER. OUR ACCUAIRRE KIT COMES WITH A BRACKET THAT MOUNTS THE TANK AND BOTH COMPRESSORS ALONG WITH

THE VALVE ASSEMBLY AS ONE UNIT. AND ONCE WE BOLT IT ONTO THE FRAME RAIL, WE'LL FILL THE TANK AND FILL UP OUR BAGS. NOW THAT'S A GREAT WAY TO END TODAY. OUR AIR SYSTEM IS FULLY PLUMBED AND OUR CUSTOM SEATS ARE NOW IN THE TRUCK. NOW THERE'S STILL A BUNCH OF LITTLE ODDS AND ENDS TO TAKE CARE OF ON THIS PROJECT, BUT THEY'RE

NOT THAT GLAMOROUS. SO I'M GONNA GO AHEAD AND KNOCK THOSE OUT. AND THEN THE NEXT TIME WE HAVE THIS RIG BACK IN THE

SHOP WE'LL BE PREPPING THE CAB FOR PAINT AND OUR FLAT BED FOR A CUSTOM COATING.