Custom 9" Rear Gear

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY RYAN'S CUTTING DOWN A NEW REAR AXLE HOUSING TO FIT OUR 1955 F-100. THEN HE'S WELDING ON THE BEARING ENDS, INSTALLING THE THIRD MEMBER, AND CUTTING THE AXLES TO LENGTH. FINALLY HE'S ADDING THE BRAKES AND FINISHING EVERYTHING OFF WITH NEW WHEELS AND TIRES. IT'S ALL TODAY HERE ON TRUCK TECH.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO TRUCK TECH. TODAY WE'VE GOT OUR '55 FORD PICK UP BACK IN THE SHOP SO WE CAN MAKE A LITTLE BIT OF HEAD WAY ON THIS THING. NOW FOR YOU GUYS JUST CATCHING UP WITH THIS PROJECT, WELL IT'S OUR ECOBOOST POWERED F-100. NOW THIS THING STARTED OUT AS SOMEBODY ELSE'S ABANDONED PROJECT. THEY HAD CHOPPED THE TOP, DONE SOME BODY WORK TO THE CAB, PURCHASED A NEW BED, AND THEN PUT IT UP FOR SALE. SO WE SCOOPED IT UP TO PICK UP WHERE THEY LEFT OFF. AND SO FAR WE'VE ADDED AN ALL NEW FRAME COMPLETE WITH COIL OVER SUSPENSION FRONT AND REAR. WE'VE ADDED THE PREVIOUSLY MENTIONED ECOBOOST THREE POINT FIVE LITER TWIN TURBO VSIX, AND A FIVE SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION THAT WE PICKED UP FROM THE AMERICAN POWERTRAIN. SO TODAY WE WANT TO COMPLETE THE DRIVETRAIN AND ADD A REAR AXLE TO THIS THING SO IT'LL MAKE IT A LITTLE BIT EASIER TO PUSH AROUND THE SHOP. BUT THE AXLE IS NOT A BOLT IN. SO WE'VE GOT SOME WORK TO DO. LET'S CHECK OUT WHAT WE'VE GOT. NOW THE AXLE WE'RE GOING WITH IS IN ABOUT A HALF DOZEN PIECES. THAT WAY WE CAN CUT IT TO THE EXACT WIDTH WE WANT TO FIT OUR TRUCK AND OUR WHEELS THAT WE'VE GOT PICKED OUT.

NOW THE HOUSING IS CURRIE'S FNINE HEAVY DUTY FABRICATED HOUSING. WE WENT WITH THREE INCH DIAMETER AXLE TUBES

WITH A QUARTER INCH WALL THICKNESS. AND YOU CAN SEE IN THE CENTER SECTION THEY USE A

THREEEIGHTHS THICK THIRD MEMBER MOUNTING FLANGE. AND YOU CAN SEE ALL THE PLATE THAT WENT INTO THE FABRICATED HOUSING ALONG WITH ALL THE WELDING THEY DID TO TIE THE BULKHEAD INTO THE AXLE TUBES AND THE CENTER SECTION, MAKING THIS ONE GOOD STRONG AXLE. NOW TO FILL IT UP HERE'S WHAT WE WENT WITH.

CURRIE SUPPLIED US WITH THIS NODULAR IRON DROP IN THIRD MEMBER WITH A 3.70 TO ONE RING AND PINION AND A LIMITED SLIP DIFFERENTIAL. WE ALSO PICKED UP SOME GEAR OIL AND THE LIMITED SLIP FRICTION MODIFIER NECESSARY TO KEEP THE CLUTCH PACKS IN THIS DIFF FROM CHATTERING. WE ALSO GOT A COUPLE OF AXLE SHAFTS THAT ARE APPROXIMATELY THE RIGHT LENGTH WE'RE GONNA END UP NEEDING. WE ALSO GOT ENOUGH HARDWARE TO PUT EVERYTHING TOGETHER.

AND WELL, THESE BEARING ENDS ARE GONNA NEED TO BE

WELDED ON, AND TO DO THAT IT TAKES SOME SPECIAL TOOLING.

NOW THESE BEARING ENDS NEED TO BE WELDED ON GOOD AND STRAIGHT, AND IN LINE WITH DIFFERENTIAL SIDE BEARINGS. SO WHILE WE WERE ORDERING AXLE PARTS, WE ALSO

ORDERED THIS ALIGNMENT FIXTURE, WHICH CONSIST OF, IT'S ABOUT AS STRAIGHT AS YOU CAN GET ALIGNMENT BAR AND THESE MACHINED PUCKS. NOW THESE ARE FOR THE AXLE BEARING ENDS, AND THEY'RE MACHINED TO VERY CLOSE TOLERANCES SO THESE BEARING ENDS CAN BE WELDED TO THE TUBES GOOD AND STRAIGHT. THESE PUCKS GET INSTALLED UNDERNEATH THE DIFFERENTIAL SIDE BEARING CAPS AND MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS GOOD AND LINED UP NICE AND SQUARE SO EVERYTHING WORKS LIKE IT'S SUPPOSED TO. AND OUR FIRST STEP IS GETTING OUR WHEEL MOUNT TO WHEEL MOUNT MEASUREMENT. NOW HERE ARE THE TIRES AND WHEELS THAT WE'VE GOT PICKED OUT FOR OUR OLD '55. WE'LL GO INTO MORE DETAIL A LITTLE BIT LATER. FOR NOW WE JUST WANT TO GET THAT WHEEL MOUNT TO WHEEL MOUNT MEASUREMENT. NOW THESE ARE PRETTY WIDE TIRES AND WHEELS AND I'M GONNA HAVE TO MODIFY THE REAR FENDERS TO MAKE THEM FIT. FOR NOW THE ONLY DIMENSION I'M WORRIED ABOUT IS THE WIDTH OF THE BED. NOW I WANT TO MAINTAIN A THREE QUARTER INCH GAP IN BETWEEN THE SIDE WALL AND THE BED SIDE JUST TO HAVE A LITTLE BIT OF WIGGLE ROOM. I'VE GOT THIS BLOCK SHAVED DOWN TO THREE QUARTERS OF AN INCH TO GET THAT DONE. AND WITH THAT TAKEN CARE OF, THE REST IS PRETTY SIMPLE. ALL I'VE GOT TO DO IS MEASURE FROM THE MOUNTING FLANGE OF ONE WHEEL TO THE OTHER.

ALRIGHT, LOOKS LIKE WE'VE GOT A FLANGE TO FLANGE MEASUREMENT OF 64 AND THREEEIGHTHS. AND NOW THAT WE KNOW THAT, WE CAN WORK BACKWARDS TO MAKE THE AXLE HOUSING THE CORRECT WIDTH. SO ONCE WE ADD THE AXLE SHAFTS AND BRAKE ROTORS WE END UP AT THAT 64 AND THREEEIGHTHS MEASUREMENT. NOW ANOTHER WAY TO DO THIS WOULD BE TO BUY A COMPLETE BOLT IN AXLE ASSEMBLY IN THE APPROXIMATE WIDTH YOU'RE GONNA NEED. AND THEN WORK WITH WHEEL OFFSETS TO TRY TO GET THINGS CORRECT AND HOW YOU WANT IT. THE PROBLEM IS WITH THAT ROUTE, IS SOMETIMES YOU END UP HAVING TO GO WITH CUSTOM THREE PIECE WHEELS TO GET THE OFFSET OR BACK SPACING YOU NEED. AND THAT CAN COST MORE THAN OUR AXLE ASSEMBLY, TIRES, AND WHEELS COMBINED. SO DOING IT THIS WAY WE GET EXACTLY THE AXLE WIDTH WE NEED, AND WE MIGHT SAVE A FEW BUCKS IN THE PROCESS. NOW IF YOU WERE DOING THIS YEARS AGO, YOU'D HAVE TO GET TO WORK WITH A TAPE MEASURE, A NOTE PAD, MAYBE SOME DIAL CALIPERS TO FIGURE OUT THINGS LIKE AXLE SHAFT STICK OUT AND BRAKE ROTOR THICKNESS. BUT NOWADAYS CURRIE'S GOT THIS CONVENIENT ONLINE CALCULATOR THAT MAKES IT REALLY SIMPLE. ALL WE'VE GOT TO DO IS MAKE A FEW SELECTIONS. WE'VE GOT TORINO LARGE BEARING AXLES ENDS, BAER ROTORS. PINION OFFSET ISN'T NECESSARY TO DETERMINE AXLE HOUSING WIDTH BUT IT HELPS TO DETERMINE AXLE SHAFT LENGTH. SO WE'LL GO WITH THE POINT NINEFOUR INCHES, AND

ENTER OUR OVERALL WIDTH OF 64 AND THREEEIGHTHS, OR 64.374. HIT THE CALCULATE BUTTON AND THERE WE GO, 58.849 INCHES. SO NOW WE CAN GET TO WORK BUILDING OUR AXLE. AFTER FINDING THE CENTER OF THE DIFFERENTIAL HOUSING, I CAN START WORKING MY WAY OUTWARD AND MARKING EACH LENGTH TO CUT.

NOW I'M USING THE ONE ON THE TAPE MEASURE AS MY

ZERO, JUST TO BE AS ACCURATE AS POSSIBLE. AND THEN IT WAS OVER TO OUR DAKE COLD SAW TO CUT THE REMAINDER OF THE TUBE OFF. NOW YOU CAN GET THE SAME THING DONE WITH AN ABRASIVE CHOP SAW, BUT OUR COLD SAW MAKES A LOT LESS NOISE AND A LOT LESS SPARKS. THEN I INSTALLED THE DIFFERENTIAL SIDE BEARING PUCKS UNDERNEATH THE SIDE BEARING CAPS AND SNUGGED THEM DOWN. NOW ALONG WITH THE ALIGNMENT BAR WE ALSO PICKED UP THIS EXTRA DROP OUT CENTER SECTION FOR PURPOSES OF MOCK UP AND ALIGNMENT. THAT WAY WE DON'T HAVE TO DISASSEMBLE OUR ALREADY SET UP RING AND PINION TO DO THIS. NEXT JUST SNUG IT DOWN WITH THE GASKET IN PLACE.

NOW BEFORE I SLIDE THE ALIGNMENT BAR IN PLACE I'M

GIVING THE TUBE END A GOOD BEVEL USING A PRETTY AGGRESSIVE FLAT WHEEL.

THEN I CAREFULLY SLIDE THE ALIGNMENT BAR INTO POSITION MAKING SURE NOT TO KNOCK THE PUCKS OUT OF POSITION.

AND WITH THE BAR IN PLACE, WE CAN ADD OUR NEW BEARING ENDS AND THE ALIGNMENT PUCKS, WHICH ARE A SNUG FIT. ALRIGHT, WITH THE BEVELED TUBE END AND THE BEVELED BEARING END, WE SHOULD BE ABLE TO GET A GOOD SOLID WELD IN THERE AND THEN BE IN GOOD SHAPE. ALRIGHT, WITH THE TUBES CUT DOWN AND THE BEARING ENDS IN PLACE, I JUST WANT TO QUICKLY DOUBLE CHECK OUR MEASUREMENT OF THE OVERALL HOUSING WIDTH.

AND IT LOOKS LIKE WE'RE SPOT ON. SO THE NEXT THING WE'RE GONNA DO IS LOCK THESE BEARING ENDS IN PLACE AND GET THEM FULLY WELDED ON PERMANENTLY.

(ANNOUNCER)>> AFTER THE BREAK RYAN'S CREATED HIS

OWN VERSION OF A ROTISSERIE TO HELP WITH WELDING THE AXLE HOUSING. AND LATER WE'LL MOUNT THE AXLE AND CHECK OUT OUR NEW WHEELS AND TIRES, STAY TUNED!

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. NOW I'VE HAD A CHANCE TO INDEX AND TACK WELD THE BEARING ENDS TO THE TUBES IN FOUR DIFFERENT SPOTS. TO DO THAT I SET THE PINION ANGLE AT ZERO SINCE WE'RE NOT SURE WHAT IT'S GOING TO BE WHEN THIS THING IS INSTALLED IN THE TRUCK.

THEN I SPLIT THE DIFFERENCE OF THE ANGLES ON THE BEARING ENDS SO OUR BRAKES WILL BE INDEXED CORRECTLY. NOW ALL WE'VE GOT TO DO IS FULLY WELD THESE SUCKERS. NOW TO PROTECT OUR ALIGNMENT BAR AND THE MACHINED ALIGNMENT PUCKS, I'VE GOT THEM WRAPPED IN TIN FOIL SO THEY DON'T GET COVERED IN WELD SPATTER. AND SINCE WELDING THESE BEARING ENDS TO THE AXLE TUBES IS ESSENTIALLY A ONE SHOT DEAL, I'M USING THE AXLE TUBE CUTOFFS TO BASICALLY GIVE ME A PRACTICE WELD. IT'LL ALLOW US TO DIAL IN THE WELDER SETTINGS AND DIAL IN THE ROTATIONAL SPEED OF OUR LITTLE HOMEMADE AXLE ROTISSERIE HERE TO ALLOW ME TO GET THIS WELD DONE IN ONE CONTINUOUS BEAD. GO FOR IT. GIVING US A HAND IS MIKE GALLEY FROM ENGINE POWER. [ welder crackling ]

(RYAN)>> THAT IS ABSOLUTELY PERFECT SPEED. [ welder crackling ]

(RYAN)>> ALRIGHT, OH YEAH, I THINK WE NAILED IT.

THAT LOOKS REALLY GOOD.

(MIKE)>> NICE AND CLEAN.

(RYAN)>> GO FOR IT. NOW ON THE END OF THE TUBE YOU CAN SEE THE BLUISH HEAT EFFECTED ZONE, AND IT'S GOOD AND EVEN, WHICH WILL MINIMIZE DISTORTION AND WARPING FROM THE WELDING HEAT INPUT. ALRIGHT, YOU'RE GOOD. WELL THAT WORKED OUT REALLY WELL, GREAT.

ARE YOU GOOD MIKE? ALRIGHT, JUST START ROLLING WHENEVER YOU'RE READY. NOW WELDING THIS BEARING END ON TO OUR QUARTER INCH THICK AXLE TUBE, WELL WE DEFINITELY NEED TO USE OUR 220 VOLT WELDER. ALRIGHT, WE'RE DONE. COOL, THAT LOOKS REALLY GOOD. WELL THAT I'M PRETTY HAPPY WITH. NOW I DIDN'T GO STRAIGHT FROM WELDING TO DISASSEMBLING EVERYTHING. I WANTED TO MAKE SURE THE AXLE COOLED OFF WITH THE ALIGNMENT BAR STILL IN PLACE TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING STAYED WHERE IT WAS SUPPOSED TO. AND NOW THAT IT'S COOL TO THE TOUCH, WELL WE CAN REMOVE THE FOIL WITH OUR SPECIAL TOOL. NO WELD SPATTER. GOOD SIGN, THE ALIGNMENT BAR MOVES FREELY, PUCK COMES OUT, COOL! I THINK WE DID GOOD.

NOW THESE FULLY ASSEMBLED IRON CENTER SECTIONS AREN'T EXACTLY LIGHT, AND I'M REALLY LUCKY TO HAVE

OUR OVERHEAD CRANE TO HELP ME LOWER IT INTO POSITION. A FEW TAPS FROM A RUBBER MALLET, DROPS IT RIGHT IN PLACE. NOW WE CAN SECURE IT WITH THE SUPPLIED NYLOC NUTS. NOW TO ACCURATELY CUT THE AXLE SHAFT TO LENGTH, YOU CAN USE THE MEASUREMENT SUPPLIED BY THE CALCULATOR OR YOU CAN JUST PHYSICALLY MEASURE THEM WITH A TAPE MEASURE. EITHER WAY, WHEN IT COMES TIME TO CUTTING THEM, YOU'RE GONNA WANNA USE SOME SORT OF AN ABRASIVE CUTOFF WHEEL. TRYING TO USE A BAND SAW OR A COLD SAW WILL JUST DULL THE TEETH ON EITHER ONE OF THEM. THAT'S BECAUSE AXLE SHAFTS ARE HARDENED TO MAKE THEM TOUGHER. NOW TO MAKE IT EASIER TO SLIDE THE SPLINED AXLE SHAFT INTO THE DIFFERENTIAL, I'M GIVING THE END OF IT A SLIGHT BEVEL. [ grinding ]

(RYAN)>> A LITTLE BIT OF WD 40 ON THE AXLE SEAL WILL HELP IT EASE INTO POSITION DURING ASSEMBLY.

THEN WE CAN ADD THE BRAKE BACKING PLATE, WHICH SERVES AS THE AXLE RETAINER AS WELL. [ impact gun spinning ]

(RYAN)>> ONCE WE RUN EVERYTHING IN WITH AN IMPACT GUN WE CAN BREAK OUT THE TORQUE WRENCH AND TORQUE THEM TO SPECS. FOR OUR THREEEIGHTHS TBOLTS IT'S 45 FOOT POUNDS. OKAY, COOL, ONE SIDE DONE. WITH THE AXLE ASSEMBLED WE CAN START ADDING THE BRAKES, STARTING WITH THE PARKING BRAKE SHOE. FOLLOWED BY THE 12 INCH DRILLED, SLOTTED, AND ZINC PLATTED ROTOR AND FOUR PISTON CALIPER.

ALRIGHT, NOW ALL THAT'S LEFT IS TO USE THE PROVIDED SHIMS TO CENTER THE CALIPER OVER THE

ROTOR, AND WE'LL WALK YOU THROUGH THAT PROCEDURE WHEN WE INSTALL THE FRONT BRAKES HERE IN A FEW MINUTES. FOR NOW I'M GONNA FINISH BUILDING UP THE OTHER SIDE OF THE AXLE SO WE CAN GET IT SLUNG UNDERNEATH THE REAR OF THE TRUCK.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. NOW YOU'VE ALREADY SEEN THE BAER SS FOUR BRAKE KIT THAT WE INSTALLED ON OUR CUSTOM WIDTH NINE INCH REAR AXLE. NOW THAT SYSTEM USES 12 INCH ROTORS AND FOUR PISTON CALIPERS. AND THE PERFECT COMPLIMENT TO IT IS THIS BAER TRACK FOUR FRONT BRAKE KIT. NOW AGAIN IT USES FOUR PISTON CALIPERS, JUST A LITTLE BIT BIGGER, AND THEY'RE FINISHED IN THIS GREAT LOOKING POWDER COATED CHROME FINISH THAT OUGHT TO LOOK AWESOME ON OUR TRUCK. NOW IT ALSO INCLUDES STAINLESS STEEL FLEX LINES AND MOUNTING BRACKETS TO ATTACH TO OUR MUSTANG TWO SPINDLES. THE HUBS, WELL THEY'RE NICE LOOKING, THEY'VE ALREADY COME PRELOADED WITH BEARINGS AND SEALS, AND THEY ACCOMMODATE A FIVE ON FOUR AND A HALF AND FIVE ON FOUR AND THREE QUARTER BOLT PATTERN. WE'VE ALSO GOT THE NECESSARY SCREW IN WHEEL STUDS. NOW THE ROTORS, THEY'RE 13 INCH ROTORS

AND THEY'RE ONE PIECE. SO THERE'S NO SEPARATE HAT AND ROTOR TO BOLT TOGETHER, SO IT SAVES YOU TIME AND A FEW BUCKS. THEY'RE ALSO ZINC PLATED, DRILLED, AND SLOTTED, AND OUGHT TO WORK GREAT ON OUR TRUCK. NOW WE ALSO PICKED UP AN ADJUSTABLE PROPORTIONING VALVE AND MOUNTING BRACKET SO WE CAN DIAL IN THE REAR BRAKE BIAS ONCE WE GET THE TRUCK UP AND RUNNING.

NOW THAT WE'VE TALKED ABOUT ALL THIS STUFF, LET'S GET IT ON THE TRUCK. IF YOU'VE EVER WONDERING WHY I CLICK TWICE ON MY

TORQUE WRENCH WATCH THIS. SEE WHY I DOUBLE CLICK. I CLICKED AND THEN IT ROTATED SOME MORE. THAT'S WHY I DOUBLE CHECK. I'M NOT SURE WHY IT DID IT, MAYBE SOME TRASH IN THE THREADS. EITHER WAY I LIKE TO GET AN ACCURATE TORQUE, WHICH WAS 70 POUNDS ON THE BOTTOM BOLT AND 105 ON THE TOP. THEN WE CAN ADD THE BRACKET AND A LITTLE BIT OF LUBRICATION TO THE SEAL SURFACE. THE WHEEL BEARINGS AND THE HUB ALREADY COME PREPACKED WITH SYNTHETIC GREASE AND THERE'S NO REASON TO ADD ANY. THEN WE CAN SET THE ROTATIONAL PRELOAD OF THE HUB AND LOCK THINGS DOWN. THEN I ADD THE FRONT ROTOR AND SECURE IT USING A COUPLE OF LUG NUTS SO WE CAN HANG THE CALIPER. AND THE ROTOR NEEDS TO BE ON THERE GOOD AND FLAT FOR THE NEXT STEP IN THE PROCESS. ALRIGHT, NOW WITH EVERYTHING INSTALLED WE'VE GOT TO DO A LITTLE BIT OF WORK TO MAKE SURE THAT OUR SHINY NEW CALIPER IS CENTERED OVER TOP OF THE ROTOR. YOU WANT EQUAL DISTANCES IN BETWEEN THE PADS AND ROTOR ITSELF. NOW WE'RE GONNA BE USING A DIAL CALIPER TO GET THIS DONE, BUT YOU CAN ALSO USE A FEELER GAUGE IN BETWEEN THE PAD AND THE ROTOR.

YOU CAN PROBABLY GET AWAY WITH EYE BALLING IT IF YOU'RE REALLY PAYING ATTENTION, BUT WE'VE GOT A DIAL CALIPER AND WE WANT TO BE AS PRECISE AS POSSIBLE. NOW ONCE WE FIGURE OUT HOW MUCH IT'S GOING TO TAKE, WELL WE CAN USE THE SUPPLIED SHIMS TO MAKE SURE EVERYTHING IS GOOD AND CENTERED. WHAT WE'RE DOING IS TAKING DISTANCE MEASUREMENTS IN BETWEEN THE ROTOR AND THE CALIPER IN FOUR DIFFERENT SPOTS, ON EITHER SIDE OF THE TOP AND ON EITHER SIDE OF THE BOTTOM. THEN WE CAN FIND THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THOSE TWO NUMBERS, DIVIDE IT BY TWO, AND THAT'LL DETERMINE THE AMOUNT OF SHIM WE NEED TO EVEN THINGS UP. ALRIGHT WELL NOW THAT WE KNOW WE NEED A SHIM OF ABOUT 36 THOUSANDTHS TO PERFECTLY CENTER THE ROTOR IN THE CALIPER, WE CAN USE THE SUPPLIED SHIMS.

WE'LL GRAB A 20 THOUSANDTHS AND A 15 THOUSANDTHS SHIM, AND 35 THOUSANDTHS WILL BE MORE THAN CLOSE ENOUGH TO JUST ABOUT PERFECTLY CENTER THE ROTOR. THE SHIMMING THAT'S REQUIRE IS TO TAKE UP ANY

DIFFERENCES IN ANY MANUFACTURING TOLERANCES. YOU CAN TORQUE THE MOUNTING BOLTS TO 120 POUNDS. AFTER ADDING THE ROTOR AND CALIPER, WE CAN TORQUE THE CALIPER BOLTS TO 75 POUNDS. AND WITH EVERYTHING SHIMMED WE'VE GOT AN EQUAL DISTANCE IN BETWEEN EACH PAD AND THE ROTOR. NOW WE GET TO DO EVERYTHING ON THE OTHER SIDE.

(RYAN)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK TO THE SHOP. NOW WE'VE GOT OUR CUSTOM WIDTH NINE INCH REAR AXLE UNDERNEATH THE BACK OF OUR TRUCK AND IT'S JUST LOOSELY MOCKED INTO PLACE SO WE CAN START CENTERING UP THE AXLE AND GETTING SOME OF THESE BRACKETS WELDED UP. NOW I'VE GOT TO SAY, OUR NOT SO TRADITIONAL NINE INCH HOUSING LOOKS REALLY COOL UNDERNEATH THE BACK OF THIS OLD '55 F-100.

NOW THE TIRES AND WHEELS, WE OBVIOUSLY SHOWED THEM TO YOU EARLIER BUT WE DIDN'T TELL YOU MUCH ABOUT THEM.

THE WHEELS ARE TSW NURBURGRING'S THAT WE PICKED UP FROM SUMMIT RACING. AND THEY'RE ROTARY FORGED, MEANING THAT IT'S REALLY STRONG AND REALLY LIGHT. THESE WHEELS ONLY WEIGHT 21 POUNDS, AND IT'S AN 18 BY 10.5 INCH RIM. NOW THE SPOKE DESIGN IS A LITTLE DIFFERENT, BUT A GOOD MATCH FOR THE THEME WE'RE GOING FOR ON THIS OLD TRUCK. NOW THE TIRES WRAPPED AROUND THEM ARE HIGH PERFORMANCE NITTO NT 555'S IN A 295/45 18 SIZE, MAKING THIS 28 INCH TALL TIRE A GOOD FIT FOR OUR OLD TRUCK. NOW IF YOU NEED A CUSTOM WIDTH REAR AXLE BUT YOU DON'T FEEL COMFORTABLE DOING THE WORK WE DID TODAY, WELL YOU CAN STILL TAKE THAT WHEEL MOUNT TO WHEEL MOUNT MEASUREMENT, GIVE IT TO SOMEBODY LIKE

CURRIE, AND THEY'LL BUILD YOU EXACTLY WHAT YOU NEED. ALRIGHT NOW WITH OR TIRE AND WHEEL INSTALLED AND A DECENT GAP IN BETWEEN THE SIDE WALL AND THE BED SIDE, WELL WE'VE GOT GOOD CLEARANCE THERE. BUT WITH OUR 10.5 INCH WIDE WHEEL AND TIRE COMBO, WELL IT'S STICKING OUT PAST THE FACTORY FENDER. THESE FENDERS JUST WEREN'T DESIGNED TO SWALLOW UP THAT MUCH TIRE. SO WE KNEW GOING IN WE WERE GONNA HAVE TO DO SOME WORK ON THESE FENDERS TO ACCOMMODATE OUR WIDER

TIRES AND WHEELS. NO BIG DEAL, IT'LL JUST HAVE TO BE ANOTHER SHOW. WELL THERE'S NOW ANOTHER OPTION IN THE WELDER MARKET. THIS IS THE NEW MILLERMATIC 190 MIG WELDER. AND WHILE IT WEIGHS IN AT JUST 35 POUNDS, IT'S CAPABLE OF WELDING UP TO FIVESIXTEENTHS THICK MATERIAL IN A SINGLE PASS, GIVING IT THE HIGHEST OUTPUT RATING IN ITS CLASS.

THE CASE IS SMALLER AND SHORT AND FEATURES ERGONOMIC HANDLES, MAKING IT EASIER TO CARRY AROUND

THE SHOP OR TO THE JOB SITE. IT ALSO USES THEIR FAN ON DEMAND SYSTEM, WHICH ONLY RUNS THE COOLING FAN WHEN NECESSARY. AND THIS WELDER USES EITHER SOLID MIG WIRE OR FLUX CORE WIRE. NOW SOMETHING A LITTLE LESS PORTABLE IS THIS HOYER VICE THAT WE PICKED UP FROM WOODWARD FAB. EVERY SHOP NEEDS A VICE AND THIS WILL MAKE A GREAT ADDITION TO THE REST OF OUR WOODWARD FAB METAL WORKING GEAR. THIS IS A HIGH QUALITY, PRECISION BUILT, AND SUPER STRONG VICE. IT'S FORGED FROM STEEL, NOT CAST OUT OF IRON. AND THE MAIN GRIPPING JAWS AND PIPE GRIPPING JAWS ARE BUILT RIGHT INTO THE VICE. SPEAKING OF WHICH, THE JAWS OPEN UP REALLY, REALLY WIDE, CHECK THIS OUT. NOW THAT'S A SUPER WIDE JAW OPENING MAKING THE VICE EVEN MORE VERSATILE. THE OPTIONAL JAW GRIPPING INSERTS ARE MAGNETIC FOR CONVENIENCE. SO IF YOU'RE SHOPPING FOR A VICE, CHECK OUT WOODWARD FAB. NOW IF YOU LIKE THE WAY YOUR TRUCK RIDES BUT YOU'D LIKE IT TO SIT A LITTLE BIT LOWER WITHOUT EFFECTING RIDE QUALITY, WELL THESE DROPPED SPINDLES FROM SUMMIT RACING MAY BE A GREAT OPTION FOR YOU. BASICALLY A DROPPED SPINDLE CHANGES THE SPINDLE PIN HEIGHT IN RELATIONSHIP TO THE REST OF THE FRONT SUSPENSION, ALLOWING THE TRUCK TO SIT A COUPLE OF INCHES LOWER. NOW YOU CAN COMBINE THESE WITH LOWERING SPRINGS TO HAVE AN EVEN GREATER EFFECT. SO CHECK OUT SUMMIT RACING. GUYS THANK FOR WATCHING TRUCK TECH, SEE YOU NEXT TIME.