By-Request Builds

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY ON MUSCLE CAR, ALRIGHT, ALRIGHT, WE'VE SEEN YOUR EMAILS, WE'VE TALKED TO YOU AT THE CAR SHOWS. YOU ASKED FOR IT, IT'S TECH TID BITS BY REQUEST.

CARB WORK, INTERIOR, SUSPENSION, AND DENT REPAIR, WE'VE GOT IT ALL. MUSCLE CAR STARTS RIGHT NOW.

(TOMMY)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME TO MUSCLE CAR. TODAY WE'RE GONNA DO A BIT OF HOPPING AROUND AND HIT ON SOME ODD AND END HOW TO.

WE'RE GONNA TAKE A LOOK AT DOING SOME INTERIOR WORK, GET ON SOME SUSPENSION TIPS, AND THEN TOP IT ALL OFF WITH SOME DENT REPAIR.

(STEVE)>> BUT FIRST HERE'S AN UNDER HOOD TID BIT THAT MIGHT INTEREST SOME OF YOU GUYS. A LOT OF PEOPLE ARE SCARRED OF CARBURETORS BECAUSE OF THEIR

MANY INTERNAL COMPONENTS AND REMOVABLE PIECES. WHAT WE'RE GONNA TRY AND DO IS GIVE YOU SOME BASIC CARBURETOR BREAK DOWN TECH. AND TODAY WE'RE GONNA START WITH THIS, A STANDARD HOLLEY

VACUUM SECONDARY FOUR BARREL. BACK IN THE DAY THIS WAS PRETTY MUCH THE STANDARD CARBURETOR FOR MANY OF THE BIG THREE'S MUSCLE CARS AT THE TIME. WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO TODAY IS REBUILD THE VACUUM SECONDARY DIAPHRAGM. WHAT HAPPENS, WHEN A LOT OF PEOPLE START TO REBUILD THE CARBURETOR, THIS DIAPHRAGM DOES NOT COME WITH THE STANDARD KIT. BUT OVER THE YEARS UNDER HOOD CONDITIONS SUCH AS OPERATING TEMPERATURES AND CONTAMINANTS CAN TAKE ITS TOLL ON THE DIAPHRAGM INSIDE THIS UNIT, MAKING IT OPERATE SLOWLY AND SOMETIMES NOT EVEN AT ALL. THE FIRST THING I'M GONNA NEED YOU TO DO IS MOVE CHOKE THERMOSTAT HOUSING OUT OF THE WAY. IT'S A SIMPLE MATTER OF PULLING A FEW SCREWS AND THEN SETTING IT ASIDE. WITH THAT OUT OF THE WAY WE CAN UNSCREW THE DIAPHRAGM HOUSING AND PULL THE ECLIP OUT OF THE WAY THAT KEEPS THE DIAPHRAGM ROD IN PLACE. NOW THE DIAPHRAGM HOUSING IS FREE TO BE WORKED ON. SO AS WE MENTIONED EARLIER, YOU CAN SEE THE CONTAMINATION HAS DEFINITELY GOTTEN TO THE BACK SIDE OF THIS OLD DIAPHRAGM. SO WHAT WE'RE GONNA GO AHEAD AND DO IS CHANGE IT OVER WITH THIS NEW UNIT THAT WE GOT FROM HOLLEY, WHICH IS DEFINITELY GONNA MAKE AN IMPROVEMENT ON THIS FOUR BARREL CARBURETOR'S PERFORMANCE WITHOUT A DOUBT.

WELL BEFORE WE PUT THE DIAPHRAGM BACK IN THE HOUSING, WHAT WE'RE GONNA TRY AND DO IS MAKE SURE THERE'S ABSOLUTELY

NOTHING LODGED IN THE VACUUM PORT ON THE BACK SIDE, WHICH GOES INTO THE MAIN BODY OF THE CARBURETOR. AND ALL WE'RE GONNA DO IS TAKE SOME COMPRESSED AIR, MAKE ONE LITTLE SHOT THROUGH THE HOUSING ITSELF, AND AS YOU CAN SEE THERE WAS SOMETHING IN THERE. SO IT'S A GOOD THING WE ACTUALLY DID THAT. THEN I'LL TAKE SOME CLEANER, JUST WIPE IT OFF AND GET ANY OF THE CONTAMINANT THAT MIGHT GET UP AGAINST THE NEW DIAPHRAGM, AND GET IT OFF OF THE HOUSING SO WE HAVE A CLEAN MATING SURFACE. AND THEN WE SHOULD BE GOOD TO GO TO PUT THE NEW DIAPHRAGM IN THE HOUSING AND GET IT MOUNTED BACK ON THE CARBURETOR. I'LL HIT THE CAP WITH A QUICK CLEANING TOO IN PREPARATION FOR THE NEW DIAPHRAGM SPRING. THE SPRING KIT FROM HOLLEY COMES WITH A CHART THAT LETS YOU SELECT A SPRING BASED ON HOW QUICKLY YOU WANT THE SECONDARIES TO KICK OPEN IN THIS CARB. WE'RE GONNA OPT FOR THE PURPLE SPRING BECAUSE IT'S MIDDLE OF THE ROAD PERFORMANCE. IT'S A SIMPLE MATTER OF TAKING A SPRING AND CLICKING IT INTO PLACE. NOW IT'S TIME TO PUT THE DIAPHRAGM BACK INTO THE HOUSING, AND WHAT I LIKE TO TRY AND DO IS THIS LITTLE HELPFUL HINT, IS I LIKE TO HOLD THE HOUSING IN MY HAND INSTEAD OF IN A VICE AND WITH ANOTHER TOOL. PLACE THE DIAPHRAGM ON THE BOTTOM OF THE HOUSING AND SUPPORT THE ROD WITH MY HAND SO THAT WHEN YOU PUT THE LID BACK ON, THE SPRING PRESSURE WILL NOT COLLAPSE THE RUBBER DIAPHRAGM, WHICH DOES GIVE IT A CHANCE OF RIPPING. THEN TAKE THE BOLTS, PUT THEM IN BY HAND AS FAR AS YOU CAN GENTLY TO SUPPORT THE HOUSING ITSELF, AND THEN JUST SNUGGING THEM UP WITH THE SCREW DRIVE WHEN WE'RE FINISHED WITH THE LID OF THE DIAPHRAGM ALREADY IN PLACE. THERE'S A SIMPLE TEST THAT WE CAN DO TO MAKE SURE THAT IT'S

GONNA WORK PROPERLY BEFORE WE PUT IT BACK ON THE CARBURETOR. ALL YOU NEED TO DO IS COMPRESS THE ROD IN THE HOUSING AND PUT YOUR FINGER OVER THE VACUUM PORT IN THE CENTER OF THE DIAPHRAGM ASSEMBLY, LET GO OF THE ROD, AND SEE IF IT STAYS. IF IT STAYS THAT MEANS THERE IS A VACUUM AND YOU HAVE A GOOD SEAL. THEN YOU LET IT GO AND YOU SEE THE ROD OPERATES AS IT SHOULD AND IT'S READY TO GO BACK ON THE CARBURETOR. REMEMBER, LIKE I SAID, MOST PEOPLE WOULD GO THROUGH THE TROUBLE TO REBUILD THIS COMPLETE CARBURETOR AND NEGLECT THIS ONE COMPONENT. THIS ONE $10 DOLLAR PIECE WHEN CHANGED CAN MAKE A HUGE DIFFERENCE IN YOUR CARBURETOR'S PERFORMANCE AND IS WELL WORTH THE MONEY.

(ANNOUNCER)>> GOT A WORN OUT SEAT THAT YOU WANT TO TURN INTO A ROYAL CAN CATCHER? OUR BY REQUEST BUILDS CONTINUE WITH TOMMY STUFFING A MOPAR SEAT FULL OF NEW FOAM.

THEN WE UPGRADE SOME CONTROL ARMS AND RICK DOES SOME DENT WIZARDRY.

(TOMMY)>> WE'RE GONNA PICK UP WITH SOME INTERIOR WORK YOU GUYS ASKED FOR BY STEPPING OVER TO OUR PRO

STREET '74 DODGE DART. SO FAR SHE'S BEEN GUTTED, GOT NEW SUSPENSION ON THE FRONT, THEN BACK HALVED AND TUBBED, RECEIVED A SIX POINT CAGE. WE'VE GOT NEW BUMPERS AND SEATS, DROPPED IN A LATE MODEL BLOWN HEMI, AND WORKED ON GETTING HER READY FOR THE ROAD. AND THAT INCLUDES MAKING HER NICE AND COMFY. LUCKILY CLASSIC INDUSTRIES HAS US COVERED LITERALLY. THESE SEAT COVERS ARE DESIGNED TO FIT A SET OF BUCKETS OUT OF

A '72 DUSTER/DEMON, AND THAT'S WHAT WE'VE GOT OVER HERE. NOW IF YOU LUCK UP AND YOUR SEAT FOAM IS IN GOOD ENOUGH SHAPE, ALL IT IS IS SLIPPING ON A SET OF SEAT COVERS AND YOU'RE READY TO HEAD DOWN THE ROAD. BUT OUR DRIVER'S SIDE HAS SPENT A LOT MORE TIME SHELVING THE OLD CHRISTMAS HAM, IF YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN. SO THE SEAT FOAM IS ALL WORN OUT AND SQUASHED AND NEEDS TO BE REPLACED. IT JUST TAKES A COUPLE OF SCREWS AND BOLTS TO GET YOUR SEAT BACK AND BOTTOM SEPARATED.

JUST MAKE SURE YOU DON'T LOSE ANY HARDWARE WHILE YOU'RE AT IT.

NOW WITH OUR SEAT FRAME ALL STRIPPED DOWN, WE'RE GONNA KNOCK OFF THIS OLD RUSTY SCALE AND PUT ON A COAT OF PROTECTANT. THE REASON BEING IS THAT IT'LL STOP ANY FURTHER CORROSION. AND NUMBER TWO, IT IMPROVES THE LOOKS OF THIS OLD NASTY THING. A SIMPLE WAY TO DO THIS AT HOME IS WITH A WIRE BRUSH. GIVE THE RUST SPOTS A GOOD ONCE OVER MAKING SURE TO KNOCK OFF THE SCALE THAT'S DEVELOPED ON THE SURFACE OF THE METAL. NOW WE'RE GONNA SPEED IT ALL UP BY TAKING A TRIP OVER TO THE BLAST IT ALL CABINET. ANOTHER ADVANTAGE OF BEAD BLASTING BESIDES SPEED IS SO THAT YOU CAN REALLY POWER THROUGH THE GNARLY STUFF AND GET DOWN TO BARE METAL. WITH OUR PIECE ALL PREPPED, WE'RE GONNA HIT IT WITH A COAT OF LOCTITE EXTEND RUST TREATMENT. WHAT THIS STUFF DOES IS DESTROY RUST, AND THEN SEALS AND PROTECTS THE METAL. ANYWHERE IT REACTS TO RUST, IT WILL TURN PURPLE, AND THEN ONCE IT DRIES IT FORMS THE PRIMER COATING. AND IF YOU'RE WORKING WITH BODY PANELS IT ALSO JIVES WITH PLASTIC FILLER AND FIBERGLASS. ONCE THAT'S DRY WE CAN GUSS IT UP WITH A COAT OF DUPLICOLOR ENAMEL. THEN SHE'S READY FOR SOME FOAM. I RAN DOWN TO THE LOCAL UPHOLSTERY SHOP, PICKED UP THE FOAM THAT WE'RE GONNA USE. WE WENT WITH THE MEDIUM DENSITY STUFF, BUT IT COMES IN SEVERAL DIFFERENT VARIATIONS. NOW IF YOU WANTED, WE COULD CHANGE THIS STUFF UP AND GIVE THE SEAT A TOTAL DIFFERENT FEEL. I'M GONNA USE AN ELECTRIC KITCHEN KNIFE TO ROUGH IN THE FOAM. THIS THING WILL WORK A LOT BETTER THAN USING A UTILITY KNIFE.

I'LL DRAW SOME LINES THAT WILL TELL ME WHERE THE CREASES NEED TO BE IN MY NEW FOAM. THEN START SCULPTING IT WITH AN AIR GRINDER.

MICHELANGELO STEP ASIDE. YOU DON'T NEED A REALLY AGGRESSIVE DISC TO DO THIS. HECK, IT'S FOAM AFTER ALL. I'LL GRAB MY ELECTRIC KNIFE AGAIN AND USE IT TO FILET OUT THE BOTTOM OF THE PIECE WHERE THE FOAM SITS ONTO THE FRAME. THEN I'LL CLIP OFF THE RINGS THAT HOLD THE WIRES AND THE OLD FOAM. CUT OUT THE ONES THAT ARE MOLDED INTO IT.

THE ORIGINAL SEAT HAD SOME WEBBING MADE INTO IT.

SINCE WE'RE USING SOMETHING A LITTLE DIFFERENT, I'M GONNA USE SOME OF THIS BURLAP TO REINFORCE THOSE RODS.

A LITTLE LOCTITE SPRAY ADHESIVE WILL HOLD THE BURLAP IN PLACE. AND I'LL GRAB THE NEW COVERS, POKE THE RODS THROUGH THE

LITTLE CHANNELS WHERE THEY HOLD THE COVER ONTO THE FOAM. NOW ORIGINALLY THESE RODS WERE WRAPPED WITH AN ADHESIVE PAPER. SO WE WENT AHEAD AND WRAPPED THEM WITH SOME MASKING TAPE. THE REASON THEY DONE THAT IS THAT WHENEVER YOU CLAMP A HOG

RING AROUND IT, IT ACTUALLY GIVES IT SOMETHING TO BITE TO

OTHER THAN JUST SLIDING AROUND ON THE ROD. NOW WE'VE GOT TO HOG RING THESE THINGS TOGETHER. YOU'LL PUSH THE ROD DOWN ONTO THE GROOVE THAT WE CUT INTO THE FOAM. THEN FOLD THE EDGE UP SO THAT YOU CAN GET THAT ROD CLOSE TO THE ONE THAT YOU INSTALLED INTO THE COVER. A HOG RING AND A PAIR OF HOG RING PLIERS WILL MAKE THEM BEST FRIENDS FOREVER. RECOVERING ONE OF THESE THINGS TAKES A WHOLE BUNCH OF PULLING, AND TUGGING, AND GRUNTING. MAKE SURE WHEN YOU RUN ACROSS ONE OF THESE GUYS THAT DO THIS EVERYDAY, SHOW THEM SOME RESPECT CAUSE IT SURE AIN'T EASY. WHENEVER YOU'RE PULLING SEAT COVERS TIGHT, YOU WANT TO TRY AND PULL IT AS FLAT AS POSSIBLE BECAUSE SOME WRINKLES WILL COME OUT AND MESSAGE OUT, BUT IF THEY'RE LAPPED OVER IT'S JUST GONNA HAVE A WRINKLE. WELL THERE YOU GO.

WE REPEATED THE PROCESS FOR THE TOP PIECE, AND NOW ALL WE'VE GOT TO DO IS STEAM THE VINYL TO HELP RELAX IT SO THE

WRINKLES WILL GO AWAY AND THEN WE'RE GOOD TO GO.

(ANNOUNCER)>> LOOKING TO BEEF UP YOUR ARMS?

NO, NOT THOSE ARMS, YOUR CONTROL ARM. IT'S A LOW BUCK WAY TO PREP YOUR SUSPENSION FOR BATTLE. THEN LEARN WHY A DENT OF A COMPOUND CURVE TAKES A SPECIAL APPROACH.

(TOMMY)>> WELCOME BACK FOLKS. A LOT OF Y'ALL OUT THERE ARE SENDING US EMAILS AND LOOKING FOR WAYS TO IMPROVE FACTORY SUSPENSION COMPONENTS ON THE CHEAP. UNLIKE THESE HIGH END PURPOSE BUILT AUTOCROSS MACHINES, A BIG WEAK POINT OF MUSCLE ERA SUSPENSION SYSTEMS WAS THAT

THEY TENDED TO FLEX WHERE THEY WEREN'T SUPPOSED TO. A GOOD WAY TO ADD SOME TOUGHNESS IS TO TAKE THE FACTORY CONTROL ARMS AND BOX THEM IN. THE REAR ARMS ON THE STOCK FRAME OF OUR OLDSMOBILE

ARE A PERFECT EXAMPLE. THEY'RE MADE OUT OF STAMPED STEEL AND GM NEVER FELT THE NEED TO GO IN AND ADD A FOURTH WALL IN THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS. REALISTICALLY THIS DESIGN IS FINE AND DANDY FOR EVERYDAY USE. LET'S SAY YOU'RE GONNA DO SOMETHING A LITTLE MORE AGGRESSIVE LIKE DRAG RACING OR EVEN AUTOCROSS. THERE'S A LOW BUCK WAY TO KEEP THEM FROM FLEXING AND REDUCE THE RISK OF BREAKING SOMETHING.

(ANNOUNCER)>> BUILD ON A BUDGET, MUSCLE CAR PROJECTS THAT SAVE YOU TIME AND MONEY.

(TOMMY)>> WE'VE GOT TO PREP THIS THING TO DO SOME WELDING ON IT. SO IT'S GONNA TAKE A LITTLE TRIP INTO THE SAND BLASTING CABINET. BUT IF YOU'VE GOT A GRINDER, THAT WOULD WORK TOO.

WITH A NICE, CLEAN SLATE WE CAN BEGIN THE PROCESS OF BOXING IN THE ARM. I'M GONNA USE A GREASE PENCIL TO DRAW OUT AN OUTLINE OF THE PIECE I'M BOXING. YOU CAN DO THIS WITH A MARKER TOO OR ANYTHING ELSE THAT'LL STICK TO THE METAL. I'M USING A PIECE OF EIGHTH INCH STEEL. THAT'S A LITTLE THICKER THAN WHAT LINK IS MADE OUT OF, BUT THERE AIN'T NO NEED TO MAKE THIS THING OUT OF A BIG OLE PIECE OF QUARTER INCH BECAUSE A PART'S ONLY AS STRONG AS ITS WEAKEST POINT.

NOW WHEN WELDING IN A PIECE LIKE THIS, I LIKE START AT ONE END AND WORK TO THE OTHER. THIS ALLOWS YOU TO BEND AND SHAPE IN THE BOXING PLATE. JUST TACK, BEND, TACK UNTIL IT'S COMPLETELY BOXED.

AND A QUICK MESSAGE WITH A HAMMER TAKES CARE OF THE SHARPER BENDS.

ANOTHER WEAK SPOT TO THESE LINKS IS THE MOUNTING POINT. YOU CAN SEE THAT THE BOLT HAS ACTUALLY ELONGATED THE HOLE. SO WHAT I'M GONNA DO IS MAKE A PLATE, WELD IT ON HERE, IT'LL REPAIR IT PLUS MAKE IT STRONGER AT THE SAME TIME.

NOW WITH MY PLATE BUILT I'LL GO AHEAD AND MELT IT ALL TOGETHER.

WHILE I'M AT IT I'M GONNA WELD IN THE BOXING PLATE TOO. SOME QUALITY TIME WITH THE GRINDER, SHE'S LIKE A NEW PENNY, STOP. WE'RE READY TO GO AHEAD AND INSTALL A NEW BUSHING INTO OUR CONTROL ARM, BUT SINCE WE'RE GOING MORE FOR A PERFORMANCE MINDED UPGRADED, WE KEPT THAT IN MIND WHEN WE ORDERED THIS KIT FROM CLASSIC INDUSTRIES. URETHANE IS MORE DURABLE THAN STOCK STYLE RUBBER BUSHINGS, AND CAN STAND UP TO THE STRESS OF HIGH PERFORMANCE DRIVING QUITE A BIT BETTER.

IT'S ALSO A FIRMER COMPOUND THAN RUBBER. WHEN YOU THROW A WHOLE LOT OF STRESS ON THEM, THEY DON'T COMPRESS AS MUCH, WHICH KEEPS THE COMPONENTS ALIGNED BETTER. WITH THIS THRUST WASHER SLID INTO PLACE I'M PRETTY MUCH DONE WITH THIS ONE AND READY TO MOVE ON TO THE OTHER ONES. NOW YOU CAN GET THESE BUSHINGS FOR INDIVIDUAL SECTIONS OF THE CAR OR YOU CAN GIVE CLASSIC INDUSTRIES A CALL AND THEY CAN HOOK YOU UP WITH THIS KIT, AND YOU CAN UPGRADE ALL YOUR FACTORY RUBBER.

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP WE TAKE A LOOK AT THE INS AND OUTS OF MAKING A COMPLICATED DENT REPAIR ON A CURVED SURFACE.

(RICK)>> HEY GUYS, WELCOME BACK. YOU'VE SEEN US FIX A LOT OF DENTS, SCRAPES, GOUGES, HOLES, WHATEVER IN A BUNCH OF CARS OVER A BUNCH OF YEARS. USUALLY WE JUST JUMP STRAIGHT AHEAD AND GET RIGHT INTO THE REAL TECHNICAL STUFF. BUT TODAY WE'RE GONNA SLOW DOWN, TAKE A BREATH, WE'RE GONNA CALL THIS BODY WORK 101.

KEYSTONE AUTOMOTIVE SENT ME THIS HOOD HERE THAT I CAN USE

FOR DEMONSTRATION PURPOSES.

I'M GONNA SHOW YOU HOW TO FIX A DENT IN A FLAT SURFACE

AND IN A CURVED SURFACE.

NOW WE'RE GONNA HIT THE FLAT ONES FIRST CAUSE THEY'RE

PRETTY SIMPLE TO DO. GET YOUR DOLLY. I'M GONNA USE A DOLLY THAT HAS KIND OF A ROUNDED FACE ON IT CAUSE IT'S A LOT EASIER TO USE. NOW ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE PANEL, HOPEFULLY YOU CAN REACH THEM, I FIND WHERE THE TIP OF THE DENT IS, RIGHT THERE. THEN JUST PUT YOUR DOLLY ON THERE UNTIL YOU CAN JUST FEEL IT ROCKING ON THERE. AND WITH A LITTLE BIT OF PRESSURE ON THE BACK SIDE OF THE HOOD, REAL EASY START WORKING THAT UP. JUST GO REAL EASY, REAL EASY, DON'T START SMACKING IT OR YOU'RE GONNA STRETCH IT OUT AND MAKE A BIGGER MESS OUT OF IT, AND THAT'S IT. YOU DON'T WANT TO HIT THE CENTER OF IT, YOU WANT TO HIT

AROUND THE OUTSIDE ON THE HIGH SPOTS. THE MAIN MISTAKE I SEE YOU GUYS DO IS THEY JUST GO IN THERE AND THEY JUST START HITTING TOO HARD. NOW LITTLE DINGS LIKE THAT ARE ABOUT AS SIMPLE AS THEY GET. SAND THAT, PUT A LITTLE BIT OF PRIMER ON IT, BLOCK IT, YOU'RE GOOD TO GO. NOW A LITTLE BIT MORE COMPLICATED DENT IS SOMETHING LIKE THAT ON A CURVED SURFACE, AND I'M GONNA SHOW YOU WHY. I WELDED THIS TOGETHER REAL QUICK JUST TO KINDA GIVE ME AN IDEA OF HOW METAL REACTS WHEN IT'S HIT ON A COMPOUND CURVE LIKE THIS, CHECK IT OUT. YOU MAY END UP WITH A DENT IN THE TOP, BUT IT PUSHES THESE EDGES OUT. SO NOW YOU HAVE HIGH SPOTS ON THE SIDE OF YOUR DENT. NOW A LOT OF GUYS WILL SEE THAT AND TRY TO FILL THE DENT.

BUT WHAT THEY DON'T REALIZE IS THAT YOU'VE GOT A HIGH SPOT AROUND IT. SO YOU FILL THE DENT AND NOW YOU'VE GOT A DENT OVER HERE, OR WHAT LOOKS LIKE A DENT.

SO YOU COME OVER HERE AND START SMACKING AND TRYING TO FILL IT, AND YOU END UP CHASING THAT THING ALL THE WAY AROUND THAT SHAPE.

YOU'VE GOTTA SLOW DOWN, GOTTA GET THAT METAL BACK IN SHAPE BEFORE YOU CAN DO ANY KIND OF FILLER WORK.

JUST LIKE IF THIS WAS ON THE LEADING EDGE OF THE HOOD, YOU NEED TO GET THIS WORKED UP AND GET THOSE HIGH AREAS DOWN BEFORE YOU DO ANY FILLER WORK. SO JUST HIT IT A COUPLE OF TIMES, PUT A LITTLE BIT OF PRESSURE ON IT, SEE HOW THAT WORKS IT IN.

GET IT RIGHT BACK INTO SHAPE. NOW LETS DO THE HOOD.

WELL GUYS, THAT'S ABOUT IT. PRIME IT, PAINT IT, YOU'RE DOWN THE ROAD. NOW HOPEFULLY I'VE BEEN ABLE TO SHOW YOU SOME OF THE BASIC STEPS OF DENT REPAIR AND SHOW YOU THAT YOU NEED TO ADJUST YOUR TECHNIQUE DEPENDING ON IF IT'S A FLAT AREA LIKE THIS,

WHICH IS RELATIVELY SIMPLE, OR A CURVED AREA LIKE THIS THAT CAN GET A LITTLE MORE COMPLICATED. IF YOU GUYS HAVE ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT ANYTHING ON THE SHOW TODAY, YOU CAN CHECK IT ALL OUT AT POWERBLOCK TV DOT COM.

SO FOR THIS WEEK WE'RE OUT OF TIME. SO UNTIL NEXT TIME WE'RE OUT OF HERE.