Spraying a 4.6 liter Pony

Everybody wants to stand out from the pack and there are lots of ways you can do it with these late model mustangs.

Well, like this old five that stands out, thanks to a pair of 10 inch stripes that start from the bottom of the front air dam and extend all the way back here to the lower bumper cover. It belongs to the wife of one of our buddies in a local Mustang club. And when it leaves here today, it's in a standout, the pack and horsepower too. Thanks to a hot new version of an old favorite power adder, nitrous oxide has been around since well before the first hot rod.

And even today, it's still the most budget friendly way to make big horsepower.

And thanks to new innovations, it's a lot easier to use and install. Now, this is a

NX triple threat EF I system we got from summit racing and among the cool features it's got is this thing right here. Now get this, it's got solenoid valves for fuel

nitrous and even a purge all in this easy to install billet box. Well, it's got other features we'll show you as we install it. But uh you know the drill here before we do anything else, we gotta get a baseline on that dyno Jack

except for louder aftermarket mufflers. This GT is totally stocked

and the factory 46 engine of course is rated at 300 horsepower, the fly wheel.

So our rear wheel baseline of 268 is just about right.

Nitrous is a cryogenic liquid with a high vapor pressure. It must be kept at a minimum of 745 P si to remain a liquid at room temperature.

When nitrous is sprayed into an engine, you get a double effect of an oxygen rich intake charge and very cold dense air charge.

The higher air density and oxygen percentage allow you to burn more fuel and make more power.

The ideal place to mount a nitrous follow one of these late model mustangs is here straddling the rear suffering back in the trunk. Now the kid comes with rubber isolated, well nuts that expand when you tighten them.

This kit comes with a 0 to 1500 P SI gauge for the bottle, which is usually a separate purchase for other setups.

Plus it uses these quick clamp brackets for mounting. This car's trunk has a small access panel that's perfect for running the ***

slide.

Now you should route it to the engine following the fuel line and as always avoid heat sources.

Mhm.

Now we can get busy under the hood by mounting the triple threat using these cool brackets from the kit.

Now, you can bend these things and twist them any way you want from multiple mounting positions. Now, we're gonna use the strut tower here, which is an odd shape, but we're also gonna incorporate this bracket to mount it

for safety. It's always a good idea to run a fuel pressure safety switch when you run a nitrous system. Now, this one came in the nit TRX kit and it'll shut the flow of nitrous off. If the fuel pressure drops below a certain point. In our case, it's 33 P si and this thing bolts to a gauge port on the side of the nitric block.

It connects to a gauge fitting on the side of the triple threat block and remember to use your thread ceiling here.

Next, we can connect the nitrous feed line we just routed and this rubber fuel delivery line from the kit

for this next step. Use your safety glasses in a rag as you remove the two bolts on the factory fuel pressure sensor,

the rag is to soak up any pressurized fuel that leaks out.

Now, install the sensor on top of the fuel rail adapter and bolt them down with longer bolts from the kit.

Now attach the fuel line from the triple threat block to the fuel rail.

Next, we need to remove the air inlet tube, drill a hole and install the nozzle adapter

with the tube back in place. We can now install the NT nozzle, making sure the nozzle opening points towards the throttle body.

Our first nitrous jet is for a 75 horse shot.

Then the appropriate fuel jet

and connect our red and blue lines to the NT

nozzle.

I

then route and connect both lines to the block.

Well, next up

the wiring, which for some people ranks right up there with a root canal for fun things to do. But with this kit, it's surprisingly easy.

It all starts with the relay which handles the electrical load and protects the circuits and guess what

color coded and labeled life is good. Now, let's find a place to put it

and the firewall is a good spot for that.

Now, the black wire goes to the battery positive terminal,

the green wire ties into the nitrous and fuel solenoid wires, the whites a ground that first goes to the fuel pressure safety switch. Then another white wire goes to a ground location

and the bracket mounting boat works just fine.

That leaves the red wire for the wide open throttle switch

and a yellow wire from the block for the third switch. Both going inside the car

with the wires pulled through the firewall, we're ready to install a wide open throttle switch. Now, normally this would go in the engine compartment next to the throttle linkage. But since the 05 and newer Mustangs are in a fly by wire system from the throttle pedal where they're mounting this thing under the dash behind the pedal.

Now, using the access panel for the emergency brake cable, drill, two holes using a unit to mount the arming switch.

Its cover

the PD

switch

and its button cover.

Now we can wire up the arming switch

and the purge switch

and reinstall. The cover.

The kit also comes with this cool adapter that allow us to pull our 12 volt ignition source to our switches from the power outlet on the dash.

Now, you could go underneath with a test light and find a wire off of your key ignition source. But the chances are it being a full 12 volts are kind of slim on newer vehicles. So don't take any chances and use the adapter.

Well, now that we got the power to spray that Gt pony, we're just a little purge kid away from making how much horsepower

we'll all find out right after the break. Stay with us.

Welcome back to horsepower.

When you see racers purge their nitrous systems at the drag strip where they're just making sure the nitrous line is full all the way up to the solenoid

and ready to release when they mash the gas.

Well, our nitric set up comes with its own purge kit too, which is usually bought separately.

Now, here's a cool feature. This flexible metal line fits inside this rubber tubing

that's gonna keep it cooler in the engine compartment and give you a more dramatic looking spray.

Oh, remember these bendable brackets we used earlier? Well, they come in handy for this purge nozzle. That's the first thing to go on.

Since we don't want to cut any holes in this car. We're gonna mound ours here behind the grill.

Then we simply route our purge line from the triple threat block all the way up to the purge nozzle.

Of course, you wanna take our time, make sure we tuck it away really good. So you can't see it.

Then after we connect the line and tighten it up really good,

you can send it back home in the grill.

Then using a self tapping screw,

it's in place.

The ideal bottle pressure is 900 to 950 P si which requires a temperature of about 85 degrees.

So we're adding just a little heat to ours before this first nighters run.

Remember we're starting with nozzles for a 75 horsepower shot.

Oops,

you always want to start low

and gradually move up

and we're already up 54 horsepower over our baseline

in case you were wondering which jets to use for a given horsepower shot. All you need to do is know your vehicle's constant fuel pressure and you can look at the supply chart in the kit and that will give you the correct number of jets for both fuel and nitrous,

ok. With that nozzle change. We just made, we're up to a 100 horse shot for the second power run.

Very cool. 340 cents

over 3 2022. Another 25 shot. Man. That's

right on the

money.

Should we go for another one?

Let's go to 125 and then end it there. That'll be safe for this car stock bottom. And that, that's right. That'll be plenty.

All right.

Although our kit will give us a peak 175 horsepower shot.

We're playing it conservative. This is somebody else's car after all. So this 125 shot of spray will be our final run.

Ok. We got a little bump out of that shot about seven horsepower up to 3 52 85 over our baseline of 2 68 55.

That's about 85 horsepower for a day's work. $720 for the triple threat kit in the summit catalog. Not bad, man. Hot Pony. Yeah. All right.

Actors trivia time,

first ever use of

nitrous. And what for

it was used in dentistry back in around 1844 and Dennis actually tried it out while having a tooth extracted.

Not bad.

All right. First ever use of nitrous to enhance an engine's power. World war two German fighters and bombers, the bombers used it for help taking off the fighters, used it for dog fights. You should know that you were in one of those things.

We're gonna take a short break while I murdered this little creep. I'll be right back though.

Hey, why don't you take me to the uh the museum where that old plane is?

No, you know, you

build on a budget horsepower projects that save you time and money.

Let's say you just finished spending your hard earned bucks on an engine swapping your ride and now you need a place to store your old engine.

Well, you don't want it laying around on your garage floor with a wood block under the balancer because let's face it. If you have to move it, you're asking for a hernia

aftermarket engine cradles like this can run you anywhere from 60 to over $200. But today I'm gonna show you how to make one for less than 30

all it takes is a few basic tools.

What you'll need for the job is a 316 inch thick square plate forecaster. A right angle gauge, a tape measure a square, a 10 ft length of one inch square tubing and a saw saw. But hey, if you've got the luxury of a band saw, it works great for cutting the square plate.

We need to start by cutting 225 inch pieces for the side of the perch base,

then cut 217 inch pieces for the front and rear of the base.

Now weld these pieces together to form a rectangular base for the perch

and make sure it stays square.

Now cut four mounting legs to 11 and three quarter inches.

Using the motor mount bolt locations, find the angle you need with an angle finder.

Marin cut the legs to the correct angle.

Then using the steel plate, cut four mounting pads

and drill them using the 7, 16 inch bit

with the leg tacked in place. Make sure it's square before welding.

Now mount the rear tabs and weld the legs the same way.

Now, we can lower the base even with the front legs and make sure it's level.

Now, weld the base to the legs

and cut the excess of the rear legs and tack the locator nuts onto the base.

Here, you can leave it raw or give it a touch of color of your choice

with the cradle bolted back to the block drill, four holes that will accept your casters.

Finally bolt the casters into place.

All

right, here comes my hernia.

All right. Again, you're gonna save 40 to $100 or even more. Plus you're gonna have the satisfaction of building it yourself. And who knows? You may be able to recoup the money from your materials when your buddies see it. I want you to build a few for them.

Hey, welcome back. You know, that was a pretty cool engine cradle that galley just made. But

let's say you got a motor, you wanna drop onto one of those cradles and Well, unless you're the incredible hulk, you're gonna need a lift plate. Let's make one.

All you need is some 316 steel plate, cut one piece, 6.5 by six, another 6.5 by three.

You also need a whole saw kit.

A drill o can't forget this.

A carb gasket.

You see the gasket is your template for marking volt hos for a mounting flash

and you can use more than one gasket if you're going to use different carbs.

Now drill your hose with a 38 inch fit,

then we use a one and 38 inch hole saw to drill evenly spaced holes in the other plate. Now, these will be the holes that lift the engine,

think I burn this thing up

there

next, making sure it's centered, weld the plate with the hose to the main plate. Now, if you plan on lifting heavy engines, weld in some lateral braces between the plates for extra strength,

what's next?

Nothing but paint.

Well, looks like we got some kind of color theme going here.

Now, you're not gonna save a whole lot of money with this deal, but hey, the tools were already out for the engine cradle build and

you did it yourself and that ought to be good for some kind of lift, right?

Looks pretty too.

We get a lot of comments on our trademark checkered floor here in horse power, but gotta tell you, we have discovered something that's a lot more practical to give your concrete shop floor a great look and a protective durable finish.

You code it makes these complete, do it yourself kits that give commercial grade results. Now you get all the product, you need

all the tools even down to the protective glasses and gloves. After cleaning your floor thoroughly,

you first apply the bond coat with the supplied brush and rollers,

let it dry.

Then the U coat finish coat is applied to provide a beautiful solid color durable finish.

A finish that will protect against oil gas brake fluid. You name it,

you've got a choice of seven different base coat colors and you can even add flakes for an extra touch. Either way you get a lifetime warranty against peeling blistering or even hot tire. Pick up,

you can pick up your own. You coded kit with prices starting just a shade over 200 bucks.

Well, we've reached the finish line of this week's horsepower show.

I think I'll go out and fly my P 51 fighter plane. See you next week.