Track-Ready Turbo Stang

There it is horsepower's hottest small block. Now at home in our 93 LX today, our mission is to get this little power pony one step away from a date with a drag strip. Now, it's been a while since we thrashed on it. So here's the love date for you.

We started our turbos staying project with a 382 cubic in small block. And after we added the turbo kit from Hellion, it made 1100 horsepower at the fly wheel.

Then we built a complete roll cage for safety.

Followed up with T

work to enclose the cockpit,

reinforced the sub frame and replace the floorboard.

Next, we bolted up a Q A one system up front that included a tubular K member,

some control arms and the coil over conversion kit

for brakes and aerospace pro street kit, especially made for street strip driving and stopping.

Finally a front engine plate from competition engineering that let us both the motor right to our sub frame to keep it from moving around.

By the end of the day, we plan to have this thing fired up. Now, the first thing we're gonna tackle is the inter cooler and all the piping that goes with it. Now, for the inter cooler to mount it, nobody makes an installation kit. So you're on your own.

All right.

Come on down. Just a hair more.

That looks good right there.

Now measure the distance between the mounting tabs and transfer that to the core support.

Measure for the height of the bracket. We need to make

drill holes in the core support and mount the cooler with the aluminum brackets, buddy made.

All right. This thing fits nice.

Ok. Now we're not gonna do any brackets on the bottom of the inner cooler because the turbo piping is actually gonna support it and keep it in place.

Now, we can go underneath to start our plumbing first from the turbo

to the inner cooler.

Although piping from the Hellion kit is custom made for the car. The silicone sleeves provide a little flexibility to make it all fit.

This kick comes with a blow off valve and lets excess boost escape.

Now, take your time on this

and make sure that the air has a smooth path.

Not like this.

I can live with that

back here. Mike's welding up a bracket to hold. Our racing pump comes from Weldon and it blows up to 100 80 gallons a minute,

up to 80 P. Si that's got a dash 12 inlet dash 10 going out of it and it'll feed motors up to 1400 horsepower.

Now to protect the pump and the engine from contaminants.

We're using a pair of 40 micron cellulose filters

to feed it. We're using this RC I cell that's designed for fuel injected applications. Now, it has a dash 8 ft and return fitting. But the cool features down here in the vent,

it has a check ball that in case the car rolls over, that ball will close and prevent any fuel from spilling. Now, I really want you guys to see this but don't try this at home

pretty cool. Huh?

The back half was built with that cell in mind

and I'm going to use some cheap angle iron to make a basket to hang it

before running our lines. We need to install this weld and bypass fuel regulator. Now, this thing increases fuel pressure on a 1 to 1 ratio as it sees a reference for boost. It's designed to work with any kind of race fuel and it's adjustable from 4 to 200 P si

all that fuel gets fed to this Russell Y block for a smoother transition than the standard T.

Now, this is a standard return system and since the regulator is positioned after the rails, it'll allow us to maintain 60 P si whether we're at idle or making a 5.5 2nd pass.

Ok. There's yet one more part to our fuel system

and it's this fuel pump controller that's gonna mount on a bracket here under the dash. Now, this thing

allows you to adjust the volume of fuel while you maintain that constant P si level.

And it controls the pump with pulse width modulation. Now, that means electrical current to the pump is interrupted over 12,000 times a second to reduce the speed.

On the other end of the big gray wires, a switch from race to street mode

and this little dial that controls that rate of fuel pump interruption. We'll mount these in the dash later. And

while I'm in here might as well get started on the painless wiring harness. First thing to go in is this fuse block that has 30 amp relays and a separate fuse rec circuit.

As far as the wires go, these color coded wires are for everything behind the firewall.

These wrapped in power braid

get routed up to the engine

while we've still got the room without the dash. Let me show you how we're gonna finish up the brake system. We're using a lightweight aluminum pedal assembly from will wood and we got ours with dual aluminum master cylinders. Now, it also comes with an adjustable bias bar and non slip foot pad.

Now, this little blue thing tied into the brake.

Well, it's a two pound residual valve that won't let fluid come back into the master cylinder.

Hey, we're getting pretty streamlined and racy with this dash, it's a fiberglass rep pop from VFN.

All we had to do was cut four holes for these auto meter gauges

and yet another one for our control panels.

We're using some mounting hardware from Moroso to hold the dash in place.

So first I'll drill some holes to bolt up the brackets.

Well, I guess drilling close to the windshields, not all it's cracked up to be.

So I'm gonna weld the brackets in. Instead,

the new dash goes right in place after just a little trimming for the roll cage

looks pretty good. That was pretty easy. The wiring will be a different story but hey, stay with us. We're not too far away from firing this thing up.

Well, we're back and now ready to turn our attention to how to steer this turbo pony.

You know, with all the modifications we made under the hood,

there's no way the stock set up would fit even if we wanted it to

this Flaming River direct replacement kit is a lot more streamlined and by losing things like the power rack and pump, we lose about 30 pounds.

It's pretty easy deal. The hem

joint first goes into this boss, we've already welded to the frame rail,

this U joint threads in next,

followed by the short shaft,

then we slip the universal joint on to the top of the shaft.

Now, earlier before installing the dash, Mike welded up a special bracket

and it's there to support the longer shaft that goes through the firewall

and into the other end of the universal joint.

However, be careful not to bottom it out.

Then with everything cinched down, we're ready to go inside the car again and weld the spl

adapter to the chat with the wheel straight. We're ready to install our steering wheel using this quick release adapter. Now, another cool feature about the steering wheel is that's made out of build aluminum wrapped in leather and it's D shaped. So you get a little extra clearance down low.

There's not a lot of

room

for a cooling system with that turbo in there. So we're going with this ultra low profile Hayden fan that's designed to push or pull air depending on how you mount it up.

It's also got wiring for high and low speeds. Now, we're installing ours on a high performance fluid iron radiator.

That's a direct fit for our particular mustang.

So with the fan mounted offset like this

clear, the turbo just fine,

everything fits. But one small problem you see, we've misplaced the clamps that go right here. So time to improvise

after cutting some slits in the core assembly and the radiator itself slide in this piece of scrap billet we have

with a couple of bolt holes

there that's not going anywhere.

Next. A rubber hose will work just fine up top, but down here, 1 may get melted by the waist gate or the exhaust. So we're gonna use this form of flex hose from Earls. Now, the stainless steel hose is flexible and to seal it up, it uses silicone sleeves and a billet, aluminum warm gear clamp.

All right now to finish up the cooling system. And these GM factory weather packs make a pretty easy job of connecting the harness to the fan

and to the electric water pump.

We're mounting the packs on this engine plate to keep them away from heat

couple grounds. And that's done.

What's next? Well, you want to hear it fire up by the end. You

bet, you bet. All right. Well, the next thing up is the fuel injection system and we'll show you where we're gonna mount the box right after the break.

We'll

start

up in no time.

This all looks real nice.

We kicked off the day in the horsepower shop by plumbing up our turbo

stinks inner cooler.

Then to feed this hungry horse, we installed the fuel delivery system,

we installed a new trig dash loaded with gauges

and assemble the lightweight steering set up, including, of course a new wheel. Yeah, that looks good.

Next was the cooling systems, low profile fan radiator

hoses and of course wiring.

All right. Now, this is the same system we ran on the motor when it was on the

dyno.

Now, here's the easy way to look at it. This whole section here goes to the engine side and all this stays inside the car. Now we'll mount the MF I box, the wide band controller and the relays on the inside of the firewall. You got it. I hope so. Let's go.

The MF I controller that was made for our Mustang turbo system mounts inside the car to protect it from the elements.

In addition to several sensors, it connects to the main harness and to a switch 12 volt source

and it uses a pair of relays to complete the circuit

out back. The wiring winds up with positive and negative wires to the fuel pump.

Ain't no way to fire up this Mustang today without a battery.

And we got just enough room for this Taylor battery relocation kit

for racing. It has to be mounted on the frame

and the kit comes with all the hardware and cable we needed for a quick install

in racing. Sometimes the best battery is one with no power. This moroso kill switch connected to ours shuts the fuel pump down in the unlikely event of a fire.

It's required by ra

and sanctioning bodies and we're using an optional pool handle with ours for faster, easier shut off.

Well, back under the Mustang, it's time to make way for the trans first for the starter block plate now because we installed our engine plate,

we're gonna need to use this piece to keep the spacing. Correct.

Well, now we can vote up the Flex plate

and by the way, all these parts came from Hughes performance,

believe it or not, chances are good. You've already seen this transmission before

in a different wrapper that is,

you see, it's the same two speed Hughes power glide. We used a few years ago in our popular 69 project car, we call supernova.

Since it saw little use. We decided to keep the tranny. Even after the Nova changed hands, we had used performance transplant all the internals into this new dead and bear case for about 1500 bucks.

It also changes the boat pattern from a Chevy to a Ford.

Now, erasers will love the fact that this thing now meets or exceeds the SF I specs of a blanket,

buy a blanket.

It also has thickened oil pan plans

and adjustable trans brake release

and redesigned oil passages for a longer lasting glide

with the trans bolted up. I can install the drive shaft. Dyno

tech built for us to our specs. Now it's a 3.5 inch chrome Molly steel shaft with 1350 joints and it's been balanced to 8000 RPM s before shipping

the power glides in the stay cool with a little help from this unit. Now, we got this thing from Performance rods and customs and what it is is an oil cooler that can also be used as a transmission cooler. Now, we got ours with dash 10 fittings, but they're also available in twelves or sixteens. And this bung here is for a temp sensor and plus we got ours wrapped with a set of small fans,

we're mounting ours onto the frame

using a plate that we

fed up.

Then we run our lines to and from the tranny

now with the ground and a positive 12 volt source. That's that. Now, make sure you stay with us because we're gonna wind up our work and fire up our turbos. Stay coming up.

And let's see this. 92 Mustang started TV, live with a budget in car cam swap. Then we used it to test some high performance boltons

and even gave it a mile shot of squeeze.

Years later, it was used to show you how to back half a car and build a road cage.

Then last year we went wild building a turbo

charge 382 small block for it.

And finally today it got all the goodies. It needs to run down the drag strip. Now, in its newest and last incarnation, it's just a couple of shifts away from firing up.

So you see a slew of shifters like this one at the racetrack and sportsman race cars. It's a Cheetah turbo action that we got from summit racing,

got a lot of cool features and you racers will love the fact that it's got a

one hand reverse lockout lever. Pretty cool.

Let's do it.

Fuel ignition and

awesome a whole bunch of wiring and everything worked. You ought to be happy.

Light off of my back. Cool.

We'll see how cool during a test and

on the

dyno

Jet.

But that's next week.

Build on a budget horsepower projects that save you time and money.

I don't know about you, but to me the best budget tips are the ones that don't cost anything at all. We got a couple of simple ones that fit the bill. Let's pretend you're in a tight quarters here. You only got room for one hand

and you gotta send this fastener in with a screwdriver that's not magnetic. Well, don't go buy a new set. Just find something that is magnetic like this tray,

rub the tip of the screwdriver on it for a few seconds

and

voila

it stays magnetized long enough to send the screw home

and you don't blow a head gasket in your cranium.

Next, you've just got your cylinder heads back from the machine shop and no matter how much you clean on them, you're still gonna have some of that debris stuck in the water jackets.

And then when you go to put the cylinder head onto the block, some of that debris can fall in the cylinders. So what are you gonna do?

The answers in your medicine cabinet? Shaving cream. Just spray it right into the jacket core holes and wipe away the excess with a piece of cardboard.

Then when you bolt on the heads, nothing's gonna fall into the cylinders

and the shaving cream, it dissolves into the coolant harmlessly. By the way, when you fire and warm up your engine. You

for

one thing

nice. Are you trying to say I need a shave? No,

I can't wait till the weather gets right and we take this Mustang out for some tests and tune at the strip.

But as we all know Mustang guys like horsepower dedicated to the street as well. Now you can enjoy up to 700 horse power in your 05 to 09 model with this T Bs 2300 Rouse charger for ro

performance.

Now, this is the heart of a complete kit that comes with a one year warranty

and with just a little tuning, uh you'll be watching those Chevys in your rear view mirror for a price of about 5900.

I don't have to tell you that a car with a lot of horsepower and great handling needs good quality, depend what brakes. Well, Eb C's new yellow stuff pads are among the first to provide great braking for both the highway and at the race track. Now,

they are made with Kevlar fibers and other ingredients to provide great breaking right from cold to higher race temperatures, especially when they're used with a set of their grooved rotors with wider slots. Now the prices will rotors go from 159 to 299 A set pads, 100 and 25 A set. Well, that's it for horsepower. We'll see you next time.