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Well, I think we're good over here, Mike.
Hey, welcome to the horsepower shop where today among other things, we put the finishing touches on our project supernova and if all goes well, we'll even get it rolling. But first Chuck Silver Bullet is back for an easy upgrade that turns your open differential into a limited slip. And once we're done, we won't have to worry about spinning that one rear tire all the way down a track anymore. Instead we're gonna have equal traction of both tires whenever we're in a straight line. But we're still gonna retain that differential action that lets the outside tire spin faster than the inside tire every time we go around a corner.
And here's what does that? It's a power tracks, no slip traction system from Richmond Gear. Well, basically here's how it works.
This pin replaces the pinion shaft and your differential and drives the power tracks assembly. Now your axles slip into the spine couplers that have interlocking teeth for a solid hook up when you go in a straight line. But when you turn a corner, this spacer ring disengages the teeth for that differential action. Chuck was talking about.
Yeah, the operation of this system is pretty simple and the installation is even simpler yet.
Now, the worst part about installing a standard posse is having to set up the ring and pinning up here inside the differential. But with the power tracks, we don't even need any special tools or a dial indicator because it all stays up here inside the case.
The first step is to loosen the differential cover
and drain the lube,
then remove the pinion shaft, retaining bolt
and the shaft itself,
then remove the wheels and calipers. If you have four wheel discs,
then push the axle in
and remove the sea clip.
Next, rotate the axles slightly,
then remove the spider gears
and thrust washers
after pulling the passenger axle out about six inches,
then remove the side gears
and the thrust washers along with them
before we're gonna install that power tracks unit, we've got a little bit of prep work to do. First, we're gonna take some wheel
bearing grease
and just apply it right here to the teeth on the drivers.
We're also gonna put some grease right here on this spacer ring
and ought to do it.
And then
we're gonna put some grease on these yellow springs here
before we put them in these holes right here.
Well, now we can install the couplers starting with the ring gear side first.
Now here's something that's really important you'll notice right here on the sinker ring there's a little bit of a space that's very important for orientation
on the ring gear side. You want it facing forward on the passenger side, face it towards the rear.
Now, reinstall the sea clip on the pasture side axle,
we have two drivers and it's important to identify them. This one
has a slot in it.
So we're gonna take the un slotted driver and we're gonna make sure that this tang is facing towards the rear, so it'll mesh with that gap I showed you earlier,
then you slip it into place on the passenger side coupler. Now you want to make sure that the teeth are fully engaged all the way around.
Take the slotted driver now and made it with the non slotted driver, making sure that this tang is facing towards the front.
We used part of a clothespin to act as a wedge between the coupler and the driver to keep them engaged. Then we rotated at a quarter turn to reveal the spring slot.
Now take the outer spring and insert the inner spring
using a small screwdriver compress the springs and make sure they're fully seated in the slot.
And of course, you just repeat on the other side.
Now, here's something that's critical to the operation of your unit.
The kid includes this little check block to ensure the clearance between the drivers is adequate.
The narrow side of the block should fit between the drivers
but the wide side should not.
All right, looks like we're in great shape. Now, the white side does fit,
you may have problems with your differential dimensions and you're gonna have to call a Texas for
the power tracks.
Well, now for that second
clip, we need to push the driver's side axle into the coupler,
use the slot to insert the
clip
and rotate the carrier a quarter turn to expose the P
shaft opening.
Then after you inspect to make sure all the springs are in place and you got a clear shot. It's time for the new pinion shaft. Oh, here's a tip that'll make installing it a lot easier.
Use this old retaining bolt as a handle
as you push
and turn the shaft into place.
Then take the retaining boat,
insert it into the case,
tighten it down.
We're about done
with the calpers and the wheels plus the differential cover back in place. We're ready to top off our differential with some gear lube. Now, we like to use the royal purple synthetic gear lube for its added lubricity and its reduced friction. Plus, if you've got a standard posse, well, that limited slip additive is already part of the blend.
By the way, that power max kid will set you back a little over 400 bucks and the stalls, like we said, with no special tools in about two hours. Oh, and once you're finished,
there's one other thing you just gotta do.
Well, it looks like the silver bullets back with a little less rubber. Now it's time for our project Supernova race car. A
lot of you guys have been asking us, when are we gonna take this thing out to the track and see how it hooks up?
The answer is later today. Hopefully, after we take care of some unfinished business to get this thing ready for some shakedown passes,
you may remember we installed a hug
performance transmission
along with our GEO performance parts 572 engine.
Now it's a full race transmission with a built in trans brake.
A trance break improves your reaction time by getting you off the line quicker and it's really no mystery how it works.
Once you've got your car staged, you press the trans brake button and hold it
that activates a solenoid that allows fluid to engage first and reverse gears in the transmission.
Then as the tree goes down,
you release the button
and the solenoid moves in the opposite direction,
allowing the fluid to be dumped instantly from reverse gear.
First gear remains engaged,
allowing you to leave at full throttle.
As you might have guessed, there's a little bit of wiring we need to do to hook up the trans bra but not as much as you might think. First, we need to extend this positive coming off of the
cleoid to the activation switch inside the car.
And I've already attached the ground from the
cleoid to the transmission cross member
up here, I fed the red wire through the firewall at the strut bar
and from a switch 12 volt source, I'm gonna feed this white wire through the same hole as well.
One of the best places to control the trans brake is from the steering wheel, but that's not gonna happen with this big school bus wheel. So we need to swap it out for one. We can mount a button on.
Here's what we came up with. It's an evolution one wheel from Grant. Now, the smaller 13 inch diameter is gonna help us with vehicle control. And as you can see, we also ordered one that matches our supernova's color scheme. Now we're gonna mount it using this quick release hub for moroso.
What this will do for us is make it a lot easier to crawl over that roll bar and get in and out of the car.
Now, while Mike mounts that hub, let me show you how I'm gonna mount this button from B and M that's specifically designed to control a trans bra
after pulling the coiled wire through the existing mounting hole on the wheel
seat, the button
in the mount
and then we'll thread the nut from the backside.
Keep in mind that solenoid is gonna pull about 20 amps. So you wanna make sure all your connections use at least a 12 gauge wire.
Plus most racers actually wire that solenoid direct rather than using a relay.
Now, that's because a relay would actually delay the actuation time. And
well, you'd probably lose all the benefits that you'd gain by using a trans break in the first place.
Whenever swapping a steering wheel, you wanna make sure that the front wheels are pointed straight ahead. That way, when you go to index the wheel, the button will be in the place that you need it. Now, let me show you how this Moroso hub works.
After indexing everything to the 12 o'clock position,
I welded this hex adapter to the steering column shaft.
Then this hub adapter slides over it
and the hub bolts to the adapter.
Finally put the steering wheel on using the three allen head bolts.
Now it's time to do our wiring. Now our white wire goes to the positive 12 volt source at the fuse block and our black goes to the trans brake
cleoid.
Good job. Now let's throw the juice to it. See if it's gonna work.
Cool.
Looks like those guys have got the Nova ready for the track and guess what? That's where Mike and I will meet you after the break. So by all means, stick around.
Welcome back to the show and to us 43 Raceway Park,
this is where Mike and I have taken the supernova for its first shakedown passes. Now, our goal here is just to make a few short launches, make sure this thing is gonna leave straight and to ensure things like our brakes, our trance break and mainly that four link are ready for the track. Well, here's what we did before we left the shop,
Mike got under the car to adjust the floor link on the rear end. According to manufacturer specs,
it's important to make these adjustments with the suspension under a load. The way the car will be sitting when it launches
to get a baseline setting, he measures from the front spindles to the rear end to get it squared up with the front and he makes lower link adjustments accordingly
later on if the car pulls left or right adjustments on the upper links can straighten that out
before I make any serious passes. I wanna take the Nova down the track and check a couple of things out, especially the brakes.
Well, the brakes are working well and we don't have any leaks.
So now Mike can put some heat in the tires
and get ready for his first real solid lunch.
Once again, we're just out to make sure the Nova launch is straight and solid.
So these 60 ft runs are about all we need.
Looks good, but kind of seems like the Nova wants to beer a little toward the wall.
So my gets under the car and shortens the top right leg about 1.5 flats.
Oh, he also tweaks the shocks to add just a little bit more travel to them.
Well, after more launches and more adjustments. Lenovo was planning the power and keeping it planted pretty much like it was on rails
and that last run was pretty stout. How did it feel,
man? The four lengths dialed in now? Good deal. But, you know, before we can take it all the way down the track, we gotta get our test and tune done on the engine. Make that 572 reach its full power potential. Then we're off to the races. But hey, that's another show. We got more of this one left though. So stick with us.
Good deal, man.
Hey, you want to sneak into the wildest power party on the planet. It's the biggest thing to hit Las Vegas ever. It's the annual S
A show where the Big Wheels of high performance show up to show their wares. We'll crash the party later on horsepower.
Hey, every year we bring you guys to the S
A show in Las Vegas, Nevada. And for good reason,
where else can you find 2 million square feet of anything and everything to do with cars and trucks?
It just keeps getting bigger and bigger. And for us, the big thrill this year was a chance to help the future of high performance with a little check to Wyotech scholarship Fund.
This is so appreciated. This will go directly to our students for scholarship. Thank you very much. Good deal.
Of course. One of the best parts of coming to see me is checking out how innovation and imagination come together on really cool show cars like the 61 Buick special belonging to Ted Richardson. Now, admittedly this isn't a mainstream muscle car
but,
and you,
we got to check out the details.
Well, like what Ted's got under the hood here, just check out this aluminum headed big block buick that's fuel injected
and it's supercharged with a pro charger. Now further back, you're gonna find a six speed Richmond transmission and a Fab nine rear end
from all show to all go. This 61 Corvette saw plenty of race track action with the late Dick Moroso. Now today it's been restored and it's raised by his son Rick
up front. That 363 small block is fed by a single for
it, gets it down the track in the eights at over 100 and 50 miles an hour.
Keeping all that power plant is a competition engineering for Link and one of their nine inch rear
ends.
Of course, there's all kinds of eye candy to digest this annual power party.
And here's a heads up.
This mega show is growing every year which seems to prove more gear heads will be buying the parts, holding them on
and living the lifestyle known as high performance.
You know, timing is everything, especially if you're trying to maximize the performance in your street or your race vehicle.
Well, now cranes op to trigger distributors eliminate the need for mechanical and vacuum advanced replacing them instead with selectable computer curves. Yeah, they allow you to tailor
the rate and amount of advanced to optimize the timing in your specific application.
It does it with two dials. This one has nine settings for the mechanical, this 13 settings for the vacuum.
And it also uses a map sensor that connects here to control the advanced curve for load compensation.
They've got them for Chevys and Fords with small or large caps and the prices vary according to your application.
If you've been scouring the bone yards or even the dusty shelves of your favorite part store trying to find an output yoke for a Turbo 400.
Well, you know how hard they are to find.
So now you can get out of the bone yards and get on the phone because TCI has a brand new replacement for the Turbo 400 yoke and a U joint. That's a direct replacement for the original. Now, both components are manufactured from high strength heat treated steel and the U joint
has even eliminated the grease fittings for improved strength and it also features precision machine caps for a close tolerance fitting to the yoke.
Now, if you've got a Ford or a Mopar, hey, good news there too. They've got you guys covered as well.
Say if you're a racer, you probably spent good money for good engine parts. So why would you want to cut corners when it comes to your engine oil. It is the lifeblood of your motor. Well, now babblings
VR One racing oil is formulated to protect your engine against the extreme conditions of competition.
It's also got friction modifiers and anti foam agents and get this. It'll also offer the same protection for your daily driver. Well, get this. We're out of time right now, but we'll see y'all back here again next week.
Show Full Transcript
Hey, welcome to the horsepower shop where today among other things, we put the finishing touches on our project supernova and if all goes well, we'll even get it rolling. But first Chuck Silver Bullet is back for an easy upgrade that turns your open differential into a limited slip. And once we're done, we won't have to worry about spinning that one rear tire all the way down a track anymore. Instead we're gonna have equal traction of both tires whenever we're in a straight line. But we're still gonna retain that differential action that lets the outside tire spin faster than the inside tire every time we go around a corner.
And here's what does that? It's a power tracks, no slip traction system from Richmond Gear. Well, basically here's how it works.
This pin replaces the pinion shaft and your differential and drives the power tracks assembly. Now your axles slip into the spine couplers that have interlocking teeth for a solid hook up when you go in a straight line. But when you turn a corner, this spacer ring disengages the teeth for that differential action. Chuck was talking about.
Yeah, the operation of this system is pretty simple and the installation is even simpler yet.
Now, the worst part about installing a standard posse is having to set up the ring and pinning up here inside the differential. But with the power tracks, we don't even need any special tools or a dial indicator because it all stays up here inside the case.
The first step is to loosen the differential cover
and drain the lube,
then remove the pinion shaft, retaining bolt
and the shaft itself,
then remove the wheels and calipers. If you have four wheel discs,
then push the axle in
and remove the sea clip.
Next, rotate the axles slightly,
then remove the spider gears
and thrust washers
after pulling the passenger axle out about six inches,
then remove the side gears
and the thrust washers along with them
before we're gonna install that power tracks unit, we've got a little bit of prep work to do. First, we're gonna take some wheel
bearing grease
and just apply it right here to the teeth on the drivers.
We're also gonna put some grease right here on this spacer ring
and ought to do it.
And then
we're gonna put some grease on these yellow springs here
before we put them in these holes right here.
Well, now we can install the couplers starting with the ring gear side first.
Now here's something that's really important you'll notice right here on the sinker ring there's a little bit of a space that's very important for orientation
on the ring gear side. You want it facing forward on the passenger side, face it towards the rear.
Now, reinstall the sea clip on the pasture side axle,
we have two drivers and it's important to identify them. This one
has a slot in it.
So we're gonna take the un slotted driver and we're gonna make sure that this tang is facing towards the rear, so it'll mesh with that gap I showed you earlier,
then you slip it into place on the passenger side coupler. Now you want to make sure that the teeth are fully engaged all the way around.
Take the slotted driver now and made it with the non slotted driver, making sure that this tang is facing towards the front.
We used part of a clothespin to act as a wedge between the coupler and the driver to keep them engaged. Then we rotated at a quarter turn to reveal the spring slot.
Now take the outer spring and insert the inner spring
using a small screwdriver compress the springs and make sure they're fully seated in the slot.
And of course, you just repeat on the other side.
Now, here's something that's critical to the operation of your unit.
The kid includes this little check block to ensure the clearance between the drivers is adequate.
The narrow side of the block should fit between the drivers
but the wide side should not.
All right, looks like we're in great shape. Now, the white side does fit,
you may have problems with your differential dimensions and you're gonna have to call a Texas for
the power tracks.
Well, now for that second
clip, we need to push the driver's side axle into the coupler,
use the slot to insert the
clip
and rotate the carrier a quarter turn to expose the P
shaft opening.
Then after you inspect to make sure all the springs are in place and you got a clear shot. It's time for the new pinion shaft. Oh, here's a tip that'll make installing it a lot easier.
Use this old retaining bolt as a handle
as you push
and turn the shaft into place.
Then take the retaining boat,
insert it into the case,
tighten it down.
We're about done
with the calpers and the wheels plus the differential cover back in place. We're ready to top off our differential with some gear lube. Now, we like to use the royal purple synthetic gear lube for its added lubricity and its reduced friction. Plus, if you've got a standard posse, well, that limited slip additive is already part of the blend.
By the way, that power max kid will set you back a little over 400 bucks and the stalls, like we said, with no special tools in about two hours. Oh, and once you're finished,
there's one other thing you just gotta do.
Well, it looks like the silver bullets back with a little less rubber. Now it's time for our project Supernova race car. A
lot of you guys have been asking us, when are we gonna take this thing out to the track and see how it hooks up?
The answer is later today. Hopefully, after we take care of some unfinished business to get this thing ready for some shakedown passes,
you may remember we installed a hug
performance transmission
along with our GEO performance parts 572 engine.
Now it's a full race transmission with a built in trans brake.
A trance break improves your reaction time by getting you off the line quicker and it's really no mystery how it works.
Once you've got your car staged, you press the trans brake button and hold it
that activates a solenoid that allows fluid to engage first and reverse gears in the transmission.
Then as the tree goes down,
you release the button
and the solenoid moves in the opposite direction,
allowing the fluid to be dumped instantly from reverse gear.
First gear remains engaged,
allowing you to leave at full throttle.
As you might have guessed, there's a little bit of wiring we need to do to hook up the trans bra but not as much as you might think. First, we need to extend this positive coming off of the
cleoid to the activation switch inside the car.
And I've already attached the ground from the
cleoid to the transmission cross member
up here, I fed the red wire through the firewall at the strut bar
and from a switch 12 volt source, I'm gonna feed this white wire through the same hole as well.
One of the best places to control the trans brake is from the steering wheel, but that's not gonna happen with this big school bus wheel. So we need to swap it out for one. We can mount a button on.
Here's what we came up with. It's an evolution one wheel from Grant. Now, the smaller 13 inch diameter is gonna help us with vehicle control. And as you can see, we also ordered one that matches our supernova's color scheme. Now we're gonna mount it using this quick release hub for moroso.
What this will do for us is make it a lot easier to crawl over that roll bar and get in and out of the car.
Now, while Mike mounts that hub, let me show you how I'm gonna mount this button from B and M that's specifically designed to control a trans bra
after pulling the coiled wire through the existing mounting hole on the wheel
seat, the button
in the mount
and then we'll thread the nut from the backside.
Keep in mind that solenoid is gonna pull about 20 amps. So you wanna make sure all your connections use at least a 12 gauge wire.
Plus most racers actually wire that solenoid direct rather than using a relay.
Now, that's because a relay would actually delay the actuation time. And
well, you'd probably lose all the benefits that you'd gain by using a trans break in the first place.
Whenever swapping a steering wheel, you wanna make sure that the front wheels are pointed straight ahead. That way, when you go to index the wheel, the button will be in the place that you need it. Now, let me show you how this Moroso hub works.
After indexing everything to the 12 o'clock position,
I welded this hex adapter to the steering column shaft.
Then this hub adapter slides over it
and the hub bolts to the adapter.
Finally put the steering wheel on using the three allen head bolts.
Now it's time to do our wiring. Now our white wire goes to the positive 12 volt source at the fuse block and our black goes to the trans brake
cleoid.
Good job. Now let's throw the juice to it. See if it's gonna work.
Cool.
Looks like those guys have got the Nova ready for the track and guess what? That's where Mike and I will meet you after the break. So by all means, stick around.
Welcome back to the show and to us 43 Raceway Park,
this is where Mike and I have taken the supernova for its first shakedown passes. Now, our goal here is just to make a few short launches, make sure this thing is gonna leave straight and to ensure things like our brakes, our trance break and mainly that four link are ready for the track. Well, here's what we did before we left the shop,
Mike got under the car to adjust the floor link on the rear end. According to manufacturer specs,
it's important to make these adjustments with the suspension under a load. The way the car will be sitting when it launches
to get a baseline setting, he measures from the front spindles to the rear end to get it squared up with the front and he makes lower link adjustments accordingly
later on if the car pulls left or right adjustments on the upper links can straighten that out
before I make any serious passes. I wanna take the Nova down the track and check a couple of things out, especially the brakes.
Well, the brakes are working well and we don't have any leaks.
So now Mike can put some heat in the tires
and get ready for his first real solid lunch.
Once again, we're just out to make sure the Nova launch is straight and solid.
So these 60 ft runs are about all we need.
Looks good, but kind of seems like the Nova wants to beer a little toward the wall.
So my gets under the car and shortens the top right leg about 1.5 flats.
Oh, he also tweaks the shocks to add just a little bit more travel to them.
Well, after more launches and more adjustments. Lenovo was planning the power and keeping it planted pretty much like it was on rails
and that last run was pretty stout. How did it feel,
man? The four lengths dialed in now? Good deal. But, you know, before we can take it all the way down the track, we gotta get our test and tune done on the engine. Make that 572 reach its full power potential. Then we're off to the races. But hey, that's another show. We got more of this one left though. So stick with us.
Good deal, man.
Hey, you want to sneak into the wildest power party on the planet. It's the biggest thing to hit Las Vegas ever. It's the annual S
A show where the Big Wheels of high performance show up to show their wares. We'll crash the party later on horsepower.
Hey, every year we bring you guys to the S
A show in Las Vegas, Nevada. And for good reason,
where else can you find 2 million square feet of anything and everything to do with cars and trucks?
It just keeps getting bigger and bigger. And for us, the big thrill this year was a chance to help the future of high performance with a little check to Wyotech scholarship Fund.
This is so appreciated. This will go directly to our students for scholarship. Thank you very much. Good deal.
Of course. One of the best parts of coming to see me is checking out how innovation and imagination come together on really cool show cars like the 61 Buick special belonging to Ted Richardson. Now, admittedly this isn't a mainstream muscle car
but,
and you,
we got to check out the details.
Well, like what Ted's got under the hood here, just check out this aluminum headed big block buick that's fuel injected
and it's supercharged with a pro charger. Now further back, you're gonna find a six speed Richmond transmission and a Fab nine rear end
from all show to all go. This 61 Corvette saw plenty of race track action with the late Dick Moroso. Now today it's been restored and it's raised by his son Rick
up front. That 363 small block is fed by a single for
it, gets it down the track in the eights at over 100 and 50 miles an hour.
Keeping all that power plant is a competition engineering for Link and one of their nine inch rear
ends.
Of course, there's all kinds of eye candy to digest this annual power party.
And here's a heads up.
This mega show is growing every year which seems to prove more gear heads will be buying the parts, holding them on
and living the lifestyle known as high performance.
You know, timing is everything, especially if you're trying to maximize the performance in your street or your race vehicle.
Well, now cranes op to trigger distributors eliminate the need for mechanical and vacuum advanced replacing them instead with selectable computer curves. Yeah, they allow you to tailor
the rate and amount of advanced to optimize the timing in your specific application.
It does it with two dials. This one has nine settings for the mechanical, this 13 settings for the vacuum.
And it also uses a map sensor that connects here to control the advanced curve for load compensation.
They've got them for Chevys and Fords with small or large caps and the prices vary according to your application.
If you've been scouring the bone yards or even the dusty shelves of your favorite part store trying to find an output yoke for a Turbo 400.
Well, you know how hard they are to find.
So now you can get out of the bone yards and get on the phone because TCI has a brand new replacement for the Turbo 400 yoke and a U joint. That's a direct replacement for the original. Now, both components are manufactured from high strength heat treated steel and the U joint
has even eliminated the grease fittings for improved strength and it also features precision machine caps for a close tolerance fitting to the yoke.
Now, if you've got a Ford or a Mopar, hey, good news there too. They've got you guys covered as well.
Say if you're a racer, you probably spent good money for good engine parts. So why would you want to cut corners when it comes to your engine oil. It is the lifeblood of your motor. Well, now babblings
VR One racing oil is formulated to protect your engine against the extreme conditions of competition.
It's also got friction modifiers and anti foam agents and get this. It'll also offer the same protection for your daily driver. Well, get this. We're out of time right now, but we'll see y'all back here again next week.