Wiring Your Ride

(NARRATOR)>> BEFORE YOU DO THIS, YOU'VE GOTTA DO THIS. WIRING YOUR RIG CAN BE INTIMIDATING, BUT TODAY ON XTREME OFF ROAD WE TAKE YOU STEP BY STEP TO GET YOUR RIDE READY FOR THE TRAIL. PLUS THERE ARE A LOT OF OPTION WHEN CHOOSING A BATTERY. WE'LL CUT TO THE CHASE TO HELP YOU PICK THE PERFECT ONE FOR YOUR RIDE.

(IAN)>> IT'S A JOB THAT IS HONESTLY NOT THAT DIFFICULT BUT A LOT OF PEOPLE HATE DOING IT. THERE ARE SIMPLE RULES TO FOLLOW, AND IF YOU FOLLOW THOSE RULES IT MAY BE TIME CONSUMING BUT IT'S DEFINITELY NOT THAT HARD. WHAT AM I TALKING ABOUT? I'M TALKING ABOUT WIRING EITHER A COMPLETE BUGGY OR POSSIBLY JUST ADDING IN A FEW CIRCUITS TO ONE OF YOUR PROJECTS. NOW THAT'S WHAT WE'RE GONNA TALK ABOUT TODAY. I'M GONNA TAKE YOU STEP BY STEP THROUGH THE PROCESS OF WIRING UP A BUGGY OR ADDING A CIRCUIT, AND DOING IT THE CORRECT WAY, AND IT ALL STARTS BY CHOOSING THE RIGHT BATTERY. TO GET A LOOK INSIDE THIS BATTERY I AM GOING TO CUT IT IN HALF. I WOULD NOT SUGGEST DOING THIS AT HOME BECAUSE NUMBER ONE IT'S FULL OF ACID, AND NUMBER TWO, AFTER IT'S CUT IT'S NO GOOD. A FACTORY BATTERY IS CONSTRUCTED USING WHAT'S CALLED WET CONSTRUCTION, AND THAT'S BECAUSE IT'S A COMBINATION OF LEAD AND ACID. THAT'S WHY I CUT THIS BATTERY IN HALF. SO YOU CAN SEE WHAT'S GOING ON INSIDE. IN EACH CELL THERE ARE A BUNCH OF LEAD PLATES, AND THOSE PLATES ARE COMPLETELY SUBMERSED IN A POOL OF ACID. ALL THOSE LEAD PLATES ARE SEPARATED BY A NONCONDUCTING BACKER MATERIAL. THE CHEMICAL REACTION BETWEEN THE ACID AND THE LEAD PLATES, THAT'S WHAT GIVES US THE VOLTAGE INSIDE THE BATTERY. A TYPICAL 12 VOLT BATTERY HAS SIX INDIVIDUAL CELLS, EACH PRODUCING TWO VOLTS OF POWER. THE PROBLEM STARTS WHEN YOU PUT ONE OF THESE TYPE BATTERIES IN AN OFF ROAD RIG AND GO WHEELING. THEY GET VIBRATED A LOT INSIDE THAT CHASSIS. THE LEAD STARTS TO BREAK AWAY, FLOATS DOWN INSIDE THE ACID BATH, AND BEGINS TO SHORT OUT EACH CELL. LOSE PART OF A CELL, IT'S NOT A BIG DEAL. LOSE A WHOLE CELL AND THE BATTERY IS NO GOOD BECAUSE THERE'S NO POSSIBLE WAY FOR IT TO PRODUCE 12 VOLTS OF POWER. THE OTHER ISSUE IS, IS THESE BATTERIES ARE VENTED. ON THE TOP OF EACH BATTERY IS AN OPEN PORT, AND THAT'S PREVENT ANY DAMAGE TO THE BATTERY WHEN IT'S BEING CHARGED BY THE ALTERNATOR OR A CHARGER. THAT'S WHY SOMETIMES IF YOU OVERCHARGE ONE OF THESE BATTERIES YOU'LL GET THAT ROTTEN EGG SMELL IN YOUR GARAGE. IT'S ACTUALLY GAS COMING OUT OF THAT VENT. THAT'S ALL FINE AND DANDY IF THE BATTERY STAYS UPRIGHT, BUT AS YOU KNOW WHEN YOU GO OFF ROAD YOUR RIG NEVER STAYS UPRIGHT. PUT IT ON ITS SIDE, START TO SPILL ACID OUT OF THE BATTERY. IF YOU LOSE THE ACID, ONCE AGAIN, YOU START TO LOSE VOLTAGE. THE BATTERY BECOMES USELESS. THAT IS WHY A LOT OF US PREFER TO USE A DRY CELL, OR AN AGM STYLE BATTERY. NOW AGM STANDS FOR ABSORBED GLASS MAT, AND THIS ODYSSEY EXTREME SERIES IS A PERFECT EXAMPLE OF AN AGM BATTERY. THIS BATTERY CAN BE MOUNTED IN ANY DIRECTION, UPSIDE DOWN, ON ITS SIDE, THERE'S NO OPEN VENT, AND THAT'S BECAUSE INSTEAD OF EACH CELL BEING A BUNCH OF LEAD PLATES FLOATING IN A BATH OF ACID, IT'S ACTUALLY A GEL THAT IS FULLY ENCAPSULATED. IT DOES NOT NEED TO BE VENTED TO THE OUTSIDE. THESE CAN HANDLE A LOT OF VIBRATION BECAUSE EACH CELL IS GELLED TOGETHER. THERE'S NO WHERE FOR THE LEAD TO SHAKE OFF OF AND BEGIN TO SHORT OUT A CELL, BUT JUST THE TYPE OF BATTERY IS ONE THING. THE NEXT THING ARE ALL THE NUMBERS THAT ARE ON TOP. ALL BATTERIES HAVE A CCA RATING. THAT STANDS FOR COLD CRANKING AMPS. THIS IS THE NUMBER OF AMPS THAT CAN BE SUPPLIED FOR 30 SECONDS AT ZERO DEGREES CELSIUS. MOST OF US DO NOT HIT THE TRAIL WITH OUR RIGS WHEN IT'S BELOW FREEZING, BUT FOR A DAILY DRIVER IN COLD CLIMATE THIS NUMBER IS IMPORTANT. RESERVE CAPACITY IS THE LENGTH OF TIME THAT A BATTERY CAN PROVIDE 25 AMPS OF CURRENT BEFORE IT DROPS BELOW 10.5 VOLTS. THIS IS ACTUALLY MORE IMPORTANT FOR US OFF ROADERS. IF YOU LOSE AN ALTERNATOR IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE YOU CAN DRIVE ON JUST BATTERY POWER TO GET OFF THE TRAIL IF YOU BATTERY HAS A GOOD RESERVE CAPACITY. SO WHAT DOES ALL THIS INFORMATION MEAN FOR YOU AND YOUR RIG? WELL AGM BATTERIES HAVE BECOME VERY POPULAR. SO FINDING THAT TYPE OF BATTERY, IT'S NOT GOING TO BE DIFFICULT. THE NEXT DECISION YOU'RE GONNA HAVE TO MAKE ALL REVOLVES AROUND PACKAGING THAT BATTERY IN YOUR RIG. IF I WAS PUTTING TOGETHER A TUBE BUGGY, OR MAYBE A WEEKEND WHEELING JEEP, I'D PROBABLY JUMP ON ONE THESE ODYSSEY EXTREME 1,200 SERIES BATTERIES. SMALL, COMPACT, YET STILL HAS A GOOD COLD CRANKING AMP AND ALMOST 80 MINUTES OF RESERVE CAPACITY. PERFECT FOR THAT RIG. IF I WAS BUILDING A HEAVY DUTY EXPEDITION STYLE RIG, WELL THEN I'D STEP UP TO A PACKAGE LIKE THIS. I'VE TAKEN TWO OF THE ODYSSEY EXTREME 1,500 SERIES BATTERIES AND MOUNTED THEM IN A SINGLE BOX. THIS PROVIDES ME WITH A LOT OF POWER, BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY, OVER FOUR HOURS OF RESERVE CAPACITY. NOW THAT WILL DEFINITELY COME INTO PLAY DURING A LONG CAMPING TRIP WHERE I'M POWERING THINGS LIKE 12 VOLT FRIDGES, MAYBE SOME LIGHTING, AND SOME ONBOARD AIR, BUT NO MATTER WHICH SIZE BATTERY YOU CHOOSE OR FOR WHAT APPLICATION THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS A GOOD QUALITY BATTERY BOX. I PICKED UP THIS DUAL BATTERY BOX FROM SUMMIT RACING. IT IS AN ARTEC INDUSTRIES BOX. IT WILL SECURELY MOUNT THE BATTERIES IN THE RIG, KEEP THEM GOOD AND SAFE, WHETHER IT'S UNDER THE HOOD OR POSSIBLY STORED IN THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT, AND NOW THAT WE'VE DECIDED WHAT BATTERY TO CHOOSE, THE NEXT CHOICE IS HOW DO YOU GET THE POWER FROM THE BATTERY DOWN TO THE FUSE BLOCK.

(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT, WHEN WIRING YOUR VEHICLE IT HELPS TO BUILD IT ON THE BENCH FIRST. PLUS THE PARTS AND TOOLS YOU NEED TO MAKE WIRING EASIER.

(IAN)>> IF YOU'RE GONNA WIRE A RIG FROM SCRATCH THERE'S A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT WAYS TO COMPLETELY BUILD YOUR WIRING HARNESS. THE FIRST IS GO AHEAD, MOUNT THE BATTERY IN THE RIG, AND THEN YOU'RE GONNA SPEND THE NEXT FEW DAYS STANDING ON YOUR HEAD, PULLING WIRES THROUGH THE INTERIOR, ALL ALONG ALL THE TUBING, AND JUST BASICALLY WORKING AT A NIGHTMARE OF A STEEL JUNGLE GYM. OPTION TWO, WHICH I THINK IS A LOT EASIER, IS TO GO AHEAD AND LAYOUT THE ENTIRE WIRING HARNESS ON A PIECE OF PLYWOOD. THE BEAUTY OF THIS IS IF YOU BUILD MULTIPLE RIGS YOU CAN KEEP THIS PIECE OF PLYWOOD AND LAYOUT MULTIPLE WIRING HARNESSES TIME AND TIME AGAIN, AND YOU KNOW THEY'LL ALL BE THE SAME. IT ALL STARTS BY TAKING A FEW MEASUREMENTS. START BY CHOOSING THE LOCATION OF THE BATTERY. REMEMBER YOU MAY NEED TO ACCESS IT ON THE TRAIL. SO RESIST THE URGE TO HIDE IT UNDER THE SEAT LIKE A HOT RODDER. CHOOSE EITHER THE REAR CAGE SECTION OR UNDER THE HOOD SOMEWHERE. THEN MEASURE THE DISTANCE TO THE INSTRUMENT PANEL, TO THE FRONT GRILL FOR FANS, LIGHTS, AND POSSIBLY A HORN. BACK TO THE FUEL PUMP, AND THEN TO THE VERY REAR OF THE CHASSIS FOR ANY LIGHTS OR OTHER ACCESSORIES. DON'T FORGET TO MEASURE THE DISTANCE TO ANY OFF ROAD LIGHTS THAT YOU MAY HAVE ADDED OR PLAN TO ADD LATER. THEN TRANSFER THESE MEASUREMENTS TO YOUR PLYWOOD. YOU DON'T HAVE TO BUILD IT TO SCALE. YOU CAN MAKE LOOPS OF WIRE IF NEEDED. I'M SURE THAT THIS PIECE OF PLYWOOD MAY LOOK CONFUSING, BUT I PROMISE IT'LL ALL MAKE SENSE WHEN WE START PULLING WIRE AROUND ALL OF THESE SCREWS. I'M GONNA START BUILDING OUR HARNESS RIGHT AT THE BATTERY JUST LIKE WE WOULD IF IT WAS UNDERNEATH THE HOOD OF THE RIG. I HAVE IT SITTING ON THE PLYWOOD IN THE SAME LOCATION IT WOULD BE AS IF IT WAS MOUNTED TO THE FIREWALL. FIRST ORDER OF BUSINESS, WE NEED SOME TYPE OF MAIN FUSABLE LINK TO PROTECT THE ENTIRE HARNESS. MOST AFTERMARKET HARNESSES COME WITH ONE OF THESE MAXIFUSE FUSE BLOCKS. YOU CAN SEE IT'S LIKE A BIG, GIANT, FLAT FUSE. IF SOMETHING CATASTROPHIC HAPPENS THAT FUSE WILL BLOW, KILLING ALL THE POWER TO THE ENTIRE RIG. THE PROBLEM IS IF YOU'RE ON THE TRAIL WHEN THAT HAPPENS, ONCE YOU FIX THE ISSUE YOU'VE GOT TO FIND ANOTHER ONE OF THESE MAXIFUSES. THAT'S WHY I PREFER TO USE ONE OF THESE WATERPROOF 100 AMP CIRCUIT BREAKERS. IF SOMETHING HAPPENS THE CIRCUIT BREAKER WILL TRIP, KILLING ALL THE POWER TO THE RIG. THE ONLY WIRE THAT STAYS LIVE WILL BE THE ONE GOING FROM THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE DOWN TO THE TERMINAL ON THE CIRCUIT BREAKER. WHEN YOU FIX THE PROBLEM SIMPLY WALK UP TO THE CIRCUIT BREAKER AND CLOSE IT, AND YOU'RE BACK IN BUSINESS. ANOTHER BENEFIT TO THIS PARTICULAR SETUP IS IF YOU PARK YOUR RIG FOR A LONG PERIOD OF TIME YOU CAN MANUALLY TRIP THE CIRCUIT BREAKER. THAT'LL PREVENT THE BATTERY FROM BEING DRAINED FROM ANY PARTICULAR PART IN YOUR HARNESS THAT MAY HAVE A SLIGHT PARASITIC LOAD ON IT, BASICALLY KILLING THE BATTERY SLOWLY OVER TIME. YOU DON'T NOTICE THINGS LIKE THAT ON A VEHICLE YOU DRIVE EVERYDAY, BUT ON A WHEELING RIG A LITTLE BIT OF A DRAW CAN KILL A BATTERY OVER A LONG PERIOD OF TIME. THIS IS JUST GOOD INSURANCE. I'M GONNA GO AHEAD AND START OUR HARNESS BY MOUNTING THIS ONTO THE PLYWOOD JUST LIKE IT WOULD BE MOUNTED ONTO THE FIREWALL IN THE RIG. ONCE ATTACHED TO THE BATTERY, POWER FEEDS FOR FOUR OTHER SMALL CIRCUIT BREAKERS ARE ATTACHED TO THE OPPOSITE LUG OF THE 100 AMP BREAKER. A MAIN POWER WIRE IS ALSO PULLED TO THE INSTRUMENT PANEL AREA, AND THE SMALLER 40 AMP BREAKER FEEDS ARE PULLED TO THE AREAS THAT THEY WILL BE USED. ONE ALL THE WAY UP FRONT FOR THE ELECTRIC COOLING FAN, TWO TO THE BACK FOR THE FUEL PUMPS, AND ONE TO THE OFF ROAD LIGHTS. WITH ALL THESE WIRES IN PLACE YOU CAN START TO GET AN IDEA OF WHAT I'VE GOT GOING ON, ON THIS PIECE OF PLYWOOD. I'VE LAID OUT THE ENTIRE HARNESS, AND IN PLACES WHERE IT'S A LONG RUN, LIKE ACROSS THE DASH, THIS IS SUPPOSED TO BE 48 INCHES. I'VE JUST PUT THEM 24 INCHES ACROSS AND MARKED IT WITH A TWO, AND WHEN I RAN THE WIRE I LOOPED IT TWICE. IF YOU'VE NEVER BUILT A HARNESS BEFORE DO NOT TAKE THIS SHORTCUT BECAUSE IT CAN GET SLIGHTLY CONFUSING. GO AHEAD, LAY IT ALL OUT ON THE FLOOR OF YOUR SHOP IN THE ACTUAL SIZE AND LENGTH THAT YOU NEED TO RUN IT. WHAT I'VE RUN RIGHT HERE ARE JUST PURE POWER FEEDS FOR HIGH CURRENT DRAW ITEMS. THEY ALL MEET AT THESE CIRCUIT BREAKERS, AND THESE ARE ALL 40 AMP CIRCUIT BREAKERS. WHENEVER YOU HAVE SOMETHING ON YOUR RIG THAT'S GONNA DRAW MORE THAN 30 AMPS. THOSE ARE YOUR FUEL PUMPS, COOLING FANS, MAYBE A BUNCH OF OFF ROAD LIGHTS, YOU NEED TO STEP UP AND USE A RELAY TO CONTROL IT. NOW WE'VE TALKED ABOUT RELAYS BEFORE AND HOW THEY'RE A HIGH CURRENT SWITCH. BASICALLY THEY WILL PROVIDE THE POWER TO THESE HIGH CURRENT DRAW ITEMS. ON A TRAIL RIG I WILL OFTEN MOUNT THE RELAYS RIGHT BESIDE THE CIRCUIT BREAKERS, BUT ON SOMETHING LIKE THE BRONCO, OR EVEN AN OFF ROAD RACE CAR, I LIKE TO MOUNT THE RELAYS RIGHT DOWN BESIDE THE ITEM THAT IT'S POWERING. YOU NEED TO RUN A HIGH POWER WIRE DOWN HERE ANYWAY. SO BY PUTTING THE RELAY CLOSE TO THE ITEM, IN THIS CASE THE COOLING FAN, IF THE COOLING FAN STOPS WORKING I KNOW THE RELAY IS RIGHT HERE. I CAN CHECK THE COOLING FAN AND THE RELAY AT THE SAME TIME. IF THE RELAY'S BAD, SWAP IN A NEW ONE. IF I DON'T HAVE ANOTHER ONE I CAN SIMPLY JUMP IT RIGHT HERE RIGHT BESIDE THE FAN, GET IT ROLLING, AND GET THE RIG BACK ON THE TRAIL.

(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT, CHOOSING THE RIGHT WIRE SAVES YOU HEADACHES ON THE TRAIL AND SOME MONEY.

(IAN)>> WE'RE TAKING YOU STEP BY STEP THROUGH THE PROCESS OF WIRING A COMPLETE VEHICLE. NOW WHEN IT COMES TO THE COMPLETE HARNESS YOU HAVE A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT OPTIONS. YOU CAN DO WHAT WE'RE DOING, AND THAT IS BUILD AN ENTIRE HARNESS FROM SCRATCH, OR YOU CAN LOOK TO THE AUTOMOTIVE AFTERMARKET AND GET SOME PREMADE HARNESSES. THIS IS A UNIVERSAL HARNESS THAT'LL TAKE CARE OF MOST TRAIL TRUCKS, HAS A BUNCH OF CIRCUITS AND RELAYS ALREADY MOUNTED IN THE FUSE BLOCK. IF YOU'RE RESTORING A VEHICLE YOU CAN ACTUALLY BUY 100 PERCENT REPLACEMENT WIRING HARNESSES THAT BOLT INTO ALL OF THE FACTORY LOCATIONS. NOW EITHER WAY THERE ARE SOME HARD AND FAST RULES IN PLACE THAT DETERMINE THE SIZE OF THE WIRE USED. WIRE IS MEASURED BY GAUGE. THE HIGHER THE NUMBER, THE THINNER THE WIRE. FOR RELAY FEEDS YOU WANT TO USE 10 GAUGE WIRE. THAT CAN HANDLE A MAXIMUM AMOUNT OF 55 AMPS. 12 GAUGE WIRE IS GOOD FOR 40 AMPS, 14 GAUGE WIRE IS GOOD FOR 30 AMPS, AND 16 GAUGE WIRE WILL MAX OUT AT 20. THESE ARE THE MAXIMUM CURRENT CAPACITIES OF EACH WIRE AND YOU DON'T WANT TO PUT EXCESSIVE STRESS INTO THE HARNESS. THIS WILL CREATE TOO MUCH HEAT. SO PLAN TO USE 10 GAUGE TO POWER ALL YOUR RELAYS WITH A 40 AMP CIRCUIT BREAKER. USE 30 AMP FUSES ON ANY CIRCUIT WITH 12 GAUGE, 20 AMPS ON 14 GAUGE, AND 10 AMP FUSES ON 16 GAUGE. FOR GROUND WIRES YOU CAN STEP DOWN A WIRE SIZE TO REMOVE SOME BULK IN THE HARNESS. THE NICE THING ABOUT THE BRONCO CHASSIS HARNESS IS IT'S HONESTLY FAIRLY SIMPLE. THE FRONT END IS ALL DONE. I HAVE BOTH POWER AND GROUND WIRES PULLED UP TO THIS RELAY, AS WELL AS A WIRE THAT WILL COME FROM A SWITCH TO TURN IT ON AND OFF, AND THIS WILL BE THE POWER FOR OUR FAN. I'VE ALSO PULLED SOME 14 GAUGE WIRE THROUGH THAT WILL CONTROL A COUPLE OF HEADLIGHTS IN THE GRILL. ALL THOSE WIRES GO BACK TO THE FIREWALL WHERE THE POWER FOR THE FAN RELAY COMES OFF ONE OF THESE CIRCUIT BREAKERS AND THE GROUND ATTACHES DIRECTLY TO THE BATTERY. NOW YOU DON'T NEED TO PULL A GROUND WIRE ALL THE WAY BACK TO THE BATTERY, BUT ON KEY ITEMS LIKE A COOLING FAN OR A FUEL PUMP I LIKE TO DO IT. IT JUST ENSURES THAT YOU HAVE NO GROUND ISSUES AT ALL WITH THOSE PARTICULAR PARTS OF YOUR RIG, AND A COOLING FAN AND FUEL PUMP, PRETTY IMPORTANT PIECES. NOW TO CONTROL EVERYTHING I'VE PULLED THE WIRES UP TO WHERE THE INSTRUMENT PANEL WILL EVENTUALLY BE, AND I HAVE TWO WIRES. ONE TO TURN THE FANS ON, ONE TO TURN THE HEADLIGHTS ON. THOSE WILL NEED POWER. YOU SIMPLE PULL A POWER WIRE OFF THE LUG OVER TO THE INSTRUMENT PANEL, AND ATTACH THE TWO OF THEM TOGETHER WITH A SWITCH. YOU DO NEED A FUSE IN THAT SYSTEM, AND IF IT WAS A TRAIL RIG WE COULD SIMPLY USE A FLAT BLADED FUSE, BUT ON THIS RIG I'M GONNA USE THESE LITTLE RESETTABLE CIRCUIT BREAKERS AND MOUNT THEM RIGHT IN THE DASH. THAT WAY IF THERE'S A PROBLEM I'LL POP THE CIRCUIT BREAKER AND I CAN RESET IT, AND WE'LL BE BACK ON OUR WAY. NOW THE REST OF THIS HARNESS, HONESTLY YOU KNOW, IT'S JUST REPEAT THE SAME PROCEDURE OVER AND OVER AGAIN. WE'LL RUN SWITCHED WIRES DOWN TO THE FUEL PUMP, RUN SOME WIRES TO THE BACK OF THE CHASSIS FOR LIGHTS IN THE BACK, AND IT'S JUST TIME CONSUMING, BUT IT'S THE SAME THING OVER, AND OVER, AND OVER AGAIN. TAKE YOUR TIME AND YOU'LL GET IT.

(IAN)>> NOW TO FINISH THINGS UP WE'RE GONNA SHOW YOU A COUPLE OF TIPS AND TRICKS THAT WILL MAKE BUILDING ANY HARNESS THAT MUCH EASIER. BUY A LABEL MAKER. IT WILL HELP YOU LABEL THE DEAD HEADED WIRES IN YOUR HARNESS FOR EASY IDENTIFICATION. WHEN CRIMPING WIRES TOGETHER WITH BUTT CONNECTORS STAGGER THE LOCATION OF THE CONNECTORS SO THE WIRE LOOM WILL FIT BETTER OVER THE WIRES. ADD SOME EXTRA 10 GAUGE WIRES INTO YOUR HARNESS. YOU NEVER KNOW WHEN YOU MIGHT WANT TO ADD SOMETHING AND THIS WILL PREVENT YOU FROM HAVING TO RUN A SINGLE WIRE OUTSIDE YOUR LOOM. USE SHRINK WRAP OVER YOUR BUTT CONNECTORS AS EXTRA INSURANCE. GET A GOOD DIGITAL VOLT OHM METER AS WELL AS A TEST LIGHT, GOOD CRIMPERS, AND PROPER WIRE STRIPPERS. THE NICE THING ABOUT BENCH BUILDING A HARNESS LIKE THIS IS YOU CAN TEST IT RIGHT HERE ON THE BENCH. SIMPLY HOOK THE BATTERY UP TO THE POWER LEADS AND FLIP THE SWITCH ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL CLUSTER, AND IF YOU'VE TURNED THE FAN ON YOU SHOULD HAVE POWER AT THE FAN RELAY. YOU CAN TEST IT WITH A TEST LIGHT, OR EVEN JUST A SIMPLE OFF ROAD LIGHT. IF IT TURNS THIS ON YOU KNOW THAT IT'S ALL GOOD. ONE THING THAT WE DID NOT COVER IS THE ULTIMATE QUESTION. DO YOU SOLDER YOUR CONNECTIONS OR DO YOU JUST USE BUTT CONNECTORS AND HEAT SHRINK? WELL THE FAA DOES NOT ALLOW ANY SOLDERED CONNECTION ON AN AIRPLANE IN THE SKY FOR FEAR THAT THE SOLDER BECOMES BRITTLE DURING EXCESSIVE VIBRATION. I THINK OFF ROAD TRUCKS VIBRATE ABOUT AS MUCH AS A PLANE. THAT'S WHY I PREFER JUST TO USE BUTT CONNECTORS AND A LITTLE BIT OF HEAT SHRINK.

ADDING ACCESSORIES TO YOUR RIG IS DEFINITELY FUN BUT WIRING UP THINGS LIKE OFF ROAD LIGHTS, OR AN AIR COMPRESSOR, A FRIDGE/FREEZER IN THE BACK IS SOMETIMES A LITTLE INTIMIDATING. IT'S ACTUALLY NOT THAT DIFFICULT. FOR THE CASE OF OFF ROAD LIGHTS MOST OF THE TIMES YOU CAN BUY A PRETERMINATED HARNESS THAT IS EASY TO INSTALL. START BY MOUNTING THE RELAY IN AN EASILY ACCESSIBLE LOCATION UNDER THE HOOD. RUN POWER AND GROUND WIRES DIRECTLY TO THE BATTERY.

THEN FEED THE RELAY POWER OUT WHEREVER YOU NEED IT TO GO.

FIND A LOCATION TO GET THE SWITCH WIRES INTO THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT THROUGH THE FIREWALL, AND MOUNT THE SWITCH.

NOW THAT'S EASY TO DO IF YOU'RE JUST ADDING A COUPLE EXTRA LIGHTS TO YOUR RIG, BUT WHAT IF YOU NEED TO ADD MORE CIRCUITS? WELL THAT'S WHERE ONE OF THESE EXTERNAL FUSE BLOCKS COMES INTO PLAY. IT'S POWERED BY A RELAY, SIMPLE TWO WIRE HOOK UP AND YOU NOW HAVE SEVEN ADDITIONAL CIRCUITS IN YOUR RIG. INSTALL THE ADDITIONAL FUSE BLOCK UNDER THE HOOD, AND ATTACH IT TO THE BATTERY. RUN THE TRIGGER WIRE TO THE FACTORY FUSE BLOCK, AND FIND A FUSE THAT HAS 12 VOLTS WHEN THE KEY IS ONE. USE A FUSE TAP TO ATTACH THE TRIGGER WIRE. NOW WE HAVE SEVEN ADDITIONAL CIRCUITS THAT WILL BECOME HOT WHEN THE KEY IS TURNED ON IN THIS JEEP. NOW IF THIS IS STILL TOO INTIMIDATING FOR YOU, YOU HAVE ONE MORE OPTION TO ADD ACCESSORIES TO YOUR JEEP. THAT IS ONE OF THESE SOLID STATE CONTROL MODULES FROM A COMPANY CALLED TRIGGER. IT'S A THREE WIRE HOOKUP. WE BASICALLY HAVE A POWER, A GROUND, AND TRIGGER WIRE, AND THEN EVERYTHING IS PRETERMINATED. SO YOU CAN HOOK UP TO ONE OF THE ACCESSORY FEEDS TO POWER ANYTHING FROM OFF ROAD LIGHTS, TO AIR COMPRESSOR, TO A FRIDGE/FREEZER IN THE BACK OF YOUR RIG. THE BEST PART IS, IS IT ELIMINATES ONE OF THE MOST STRESSFUL PARTS OF WIRING INTO A BRAND NEW VEHICLE, AND THAT IS PUNCHING A HOLE IN YOUR FIREWALL BECAUSE IT USES WIRELESS BLUE TOOTH TECHNOLOGY TO CONTROL THE BOX. THIS SWITCH PANEL MOUNTS INSIDE YOUR RIG, AND IT WILL CONTROL EVERYTHING THAT YOU HAVE HOOKED UP FROM THE DRIVER SEAT. NO HOLES IN THE FIREWALL. YOU CAN EVEN DOWNLOAD AN APP ONTO YOUR SMART PHONE IF YOU WANT TO CONTROL THE BOX WHILE YOU'RE AWAY FROM THE RIG JUST FOR FUN. SO THERE ARE TONS OF DIFFERENT OPTIONS TO ADD ACCESSORIES TO YOUR RIG. NOW THE SKY'S THE LIMIT.