Adventure Jeep Axles

(NARRATOR)>> WE'RE BUILDING A FULLY LOADED ADVENTURE JEEP AND YOU CAN ENTER TO WIN IT. TODAY ON XTREME OFF ROAD IT'S ALL ABOUT AXLES AS OUR LJ GETS NINE INCH AXLES WITH HEAVY DUTY KNUCKLES AND A

HIGH PINION THIRD MEMBER. WHEN WE'RE DONE WITH IT THIS JEEP WILL BE EQUIPPED FOR TRUE DUAL PURPOSE WHEELING.

(IAN)>> TODAY IS THE DAY THAT I LOOK FORWARD TO ON ANY PROJECT. IT'S TIME TO DEAL WITH THE TRANSFER CASE AND BOTH THE

FRONT AND REAR AXLES ON OUR ROCK AUTO DOT COM GIVEAWAY JEEP LJ. NOW WE'VE ALREADY SWAPPED IN A FIVE POINT SEVEN LITER HEMI AND A 545 RFE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. SO WE'LL START AT THE TRANSFER CASE, AND WHAT TRANSFER CASE DID I PICK FOR THIS RIG? WELL THIS TIME I WENT ALL JEEP. THIS IS A NEW PROCESS 241 TRANSFER CASE. IT'S QUITE OFTEN SIMPLY CALLED A ROCK TRACK CASE BECAUSE THAT IS THE NAME THAT JEEP GAVE IT WHEN THEY INSTALLED IT IN JEEP RUBICONS FROM THE FACTORY. NOW IT'S A HEAVY DUTY TRANSFER CASE WITH UPGRADED PLANETARIES AND AN EXTRA WIDE CHAIN, AND IT EVEN CAME AVAILABLE IN SOME

HALF TON PICK UP TRUCKS. WHEN SHOPPING FOR ONE FOR YOUR JEEP MAKE SURE TO CHECK THE ID TAG ON THE BACK AND LOOK FOR THAT BOTTOM NUMBER. THAT FOUR AND THAT ONE MEANS THAT THE LOW RANGE RATIO IN THIS TRANSFER CASE IS FOUR TO ONE, PERFECT FOR HARDCORE CRAWLING.

NOW TO MAKE THE INSTALLATION EVEN EASIER I'M NOT GONNA TRY TO RUN A FACTORY SHIFTER. I HAVE A CABLE SHIFTER KIT FROM ADVANCE ADAPTERS. THIS JUST HELPS CLEAN UP EVERYTHING UNDERNEATH THE JEEP AND MAKES SHIFTING THE TRANSFER CASE A LOT EASIER. IT'LL FIT IN THE FACTORY CONSOLE. I DON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT A BUNCH OF LINKAGES THAT CAN POSSIBLY GET BOUND UP WHEN THE JEEP IS OFF ROAD. ONCE THAT'S IN AND THIS IS IN THE JEEP, THEN TRANSFER CASE IS DONE. TO INSTALL THE CABLE SHIFTER THE FACTORY LINKAGE IS REMOVED

FROM THE SIDE OF THE TRANSFER CASE.

THE SHIFTER ASSEMBLY IS PUT TOGETHER ON THE BENCH AND PLACED INSIDE THE BRACKET THAT WILL ANCHOR IT TO THE FLOOR, AND THE CABLE IS HOOKED UP. INSIDE THE JEEP THE CENTER CONSOLE IS REMOVED ALONG WITH THE FACTORY SHIFTER, AND THE NEW SHIFTER ASSEMBLY IS DROPPED INTO PLACE.

WITH THE SKID PLATE REMOVED, THE ROCK TRACK TRANSFER CASE IS RAISED INTO POSITION AND BOLTED UP BEHIND OUR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION. THE CABLE IS THEN ATTACHED TO THE EXTENSION HOUSING BRACKET AND OUR CONVERSION IS COMPLETE.

WITH THE TRANSFER CASE TAKEN CARE OF, WE CAN NOW BUILD BOTH THE FRONT AND THE REAR AXLE. NOW THE FIRST STEP IS TO DETERMINE THE WIDTH OF THE AXLE. SO YOU CAN TELL I HAVEN'T CUT THE HOUSINGS DOWN YET. THAT'S WHY THERE'S A WHOLE BUNCH OF TUBE STICKING OUT THE DRIVER'S SIDE OF THE JEEP. NOW TO DETERMINE THAT WIDTH THE AXLE HAS TO COME OUT SO WE CAN SET THE TIRES AND WHEELS IN PLACE.

THE FRONT SUSPENSION IS UNBOLTED FROM THE AXLE AND THE HOUSING IS REMOVED FROM UNDERNEATH THE JEEP. BOTH TIRES AND WHEELS ARE PLACED UNDER THE FENDERS. MY PLAN FROM THE BEGINNING WAS TO BUILD THIS AXLE AT FULL WIDTH, AND WITH A QUICK CHECK OF THE TAPE IT'S CONFIRMED, 67 INCHES IS WHERE IT'S ALL GONNA LAND. TO CUT DOWN THE SPIDER TRAX HOUSINGS I'M GONNA USE MY NEWEST TOOL, THE TRAJAN 250-S HORIZONTAL BAND SAW FROM SAW BLADE DOT COM. THIS SAW IS A HEAVY DUTY BAND SAW SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR INDIVIDUALS LOOKING FOR PRECISE CUTTING CAPABILITY, EVEN WHEN DEALING WITH LARGE OVERSIZED MATERIAL.

THE MANUAL SWIVEL HEAD AND FULLY ADJUSTABLE HYDRAULIC DOWN FEED ALLOW ME PRECISE CONTROL OVER THE SPEED OF THE CUT, AND THE TWO HORSEPOWER MOTOR ENSURES QUICK WORK OF THICK MATERIAL LIKE THIS AXLE TUBE. IT IS EQUIPPED WITH A VARIABLE SPEED PULLEY TO MAKE BLADE SPEED ADJUSTMENTS EASY, AND CARBIDE GUIDES ENSURE GOOD, STRAIGHT CUTS. THE COOLANT SYSTEM HELPS KEEP THE BLADE COOL DURING CUTTING AND WILL LIMIT THE HEAT INPUT INTO THINNER MATERIAL TO HELP ELIMINATE DISTORTION. TO COMPLETE THE FRONT AXLE OUT TO ITS FINISHED WIDTH WE NEED

A SET OF STEERING KNUCKLES. NOW FOR THIS PROJECT I'M USING REED RACING HEAVY DUTY FORGED INNERC'S WITH KINGPINS AND A SET OF DANA 60 DUCTILE IRON HEAVY DUTY KNUCKLES. NOW THIS WILL ADD A LOT OF STRENGTH TO OUR FRONT AXLE AS WELL AS AN ADDED BENEFIT. THE REED RACING KNUCKLES ARE MACHINED TO ACCEPT A HIGH STEER ARM AND THAT'LL GET THE STEERING UP AND OUT OF THE WAY OF ANY TRAIL OBSTACLES. NOW YOU CAN'T JUST THROW A SET OF STEERING KNUCKLES ONTO AN AXLE ASSEMBLY. YOU NEED TO ALIGN THEM, AND TO DO THAT THE ALIGNMENT BAR NEEDS TO KEY INTO A SPINDLE. SO I HAVE A DANA 60 SPINDLE HERE FROM YUKON GEAR AND AXLE THAT I WILL SCREW THE ALIGNMENT PUCK ONTO, AND THAT WILL JUST ENSURE THAT BOTH SPINDLES, AS WELL AS THE CARRIER BEARINGS IN THE THIRD MEMBER, ARE IN PERFECT ALIGNMENT WHEN WE FINISH THE WELDING ON THIS AXLE ASSEMBLY. IF YOU DON'T USE AN ALIGNMENT BAR WHEN YOU'RE BUILDING AN AXLE, WELL YOU END UP WITH THE POSSIBILITY OF A CROOKED HOUSING, AND THAT'LL COST YOU MONEY IN BENT OR BROKEN AXLE SHAFTS.

(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT WE TAKE CARE OF THE STEERING ON OUR FRONT AXLE WITH SOME BULLETPROOF COMPONENTS.

(IAN)>> WE ARE BACK ON XTREME PREPPING THE AXLE HOUSING FOR OUR JEEP LJ OFF ROAD ADVENTURE RIG. THE MILL SCALE IS GROUND OFF THE AXLE HOUSING AND EACH INNERC IS HAMMERED INTO PLACE.

CASTOR IS CHECKED WITH AN ANGLE FINDER TO ENSURE THAT BOTH INNERC'S ARE EVEN. A KING PIN REBUILD KIT FROM YUKON GEAR AND AXLE IS USED TO MAKE THE CONNECTION BETWEEN THE INNERC AND THE KNUCKLE.

THE SPINDLE IS THEN BOLTED ONTO THE KNUCKLE. THE THIRD MEMBER WITH ALIGNMENT PUCKS INSTALLED IN

THE SIDE BEARING JOURNALS IS DROPPED INTO THE HOUSING, AND THE ALIGNMENT BAR IS SLID THROUGH THE ENTIRE SETUP.

ANOTHER BENEFIT TO THE REED RACING KNUCKLE PACKAGE IS THAT IT WORKS HAND IN HAND WITH THIS HIGH STEER ARM FROM RTECH INDUSTRIES.

NOW IT MOUNTS ON TOP OF THE KNUCKLE LIKE A STANDARD HIGH STEER ARM, BUT YOU CAN SEE IT IS A RATHER INTERESTING SHAPE. NOW THIS EXTRA PIECE OF MATERIAL IS DESIGNED TO LINE UP WITH THE FACTORY TIE ROD HOLE IN THE KNUCKLE. THAT ALLOWS YOU TO RUN ONE BOLT THROUGH THE HIGH STEER ARM ALL THE WAY DOWN AND THEN A NUT ON THE BOTTOM OF THE TIE ROD, ESSENTIALLY MOUNTING YOUR TIE ROD IN WHAT'S CALLED DOUBLE SHEAR. THAT MEANS THAT IT'S CLAMPED ON THE BOTTOM AND THE TOP. NOW THAT IS A DEFINITE IF YOU PLAN TO RUN FULL HYDRAULIC STEERING. NOW WE'RE ONLY RUNNING RAM ASSIST, BUT IT'S JUST EXTRA PROTECTION IF THE VEHICLE'S EVER BOUND UP. IT TAKES PRESSURE OFF THE HIGH STEER ARM AND OFF THAT TIE ROD, AND IT'LL KEEP EVERYTHING GOOD AND SAFE. NOW I'M GONNA LEAVE OUR ALIGNMENT BAR IN THE AXLE TO KEEP EVERYTHING STRAIGHT AS I FINISH OUT THE REST OF THE STEERING, AND THEN I CAN WELD UP THE AXLE.

THE TAPERED TIE ROD HOLE IN THE REED KNUCKLE IS BORED OUT TO THREE QUARTERS OF AN INCH. NEXT THE HIGH STEER ARM IS MARKED, DRILLED, AND REAMED OPEN TO THREE QUARTERS OF AN INCH.

STEERING WILL BE BUILT USING A TMR CUSTOMS HEIM JOINT STEERING KIT THAT INCLUDES A SET OF THREE QUARTER INCH HEIMS, MISALIGNMENT SPACERS, JAM NUTS, AND TUBING ADAPTERS. WITH THE STEERING HEIMS IN PLACE BETWEEN OUR HIGH STEER ARM AND FACTORY KNUCKLE, WE'LL CUT SOME SPACERS OUT OF SOME DOM TUBING.

TIE RODS ARE CUT FROM INCH AND A HALF, QUARTER INCH WALL TUBING.

FINALLY THE PSC HYDRAULIC ASSIST RAM IS MOUNTED TO THE AXLE.

[ welder crackling ]

(IAN)>> WITH ALL THE FAB WORK DONE ON OUR FRONT AXLE HOUSING IT'S READY FOR FINISH WELDING, AND I'LL DO THAT WITH THE ALIGNMENT BAR IN PLACE UNTIL THE HOUSING COOLS OFF. THAT WILL JUST ENSURE THAT EVERYTHING STAYS GOOD AND TRUE.

NOW AN ITEM THAT I'M NOT GONNA FINISH WELD YET IS THE RAM ASSIST RAM ONTO THE TIE ROD, AND THAT IS BECAUSE AS THEY STEERING CYCLES, THE TIE ROD ACTUALLY RISES AND FALLS, AND GETS CLOSER AND FURTHER AWAY FROM THE AXLE. I WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT THE KNUCKLES ARE FREE TO MOVE WITHOUT JAMMING UP OUR HYDRAULIC RAM. THE BEST WAY TO DO THAT IS WITH THE AXLE BACK UNDERNEATH THE TRUCK, BUT RIGHT NOW I CAN THROW ON MY WELDING GLOVES AND START BURNING IN SOME STEEL.

[ welder crackling ]

(NARRATOR)>> COMING UP WE LOAD UP THE THIRD MEMBER WITH

A GEAR SET AND LOCKER DESIGNED FOR MAXIMUM DUAL PURPOSE PERFORMANCE.

(IAN)>> WITH OUR HOUSINGS COMPLETE WE CAN NOW FOCUS ON THE THIRD MEMBERS. NOW THE NICE THING ABOUT THE NINE INCH SERIES OF AXLES IS YOU HAVE A LOT OF OPTIONS WHEN IT COMES TO THIRD MEMBERS TO FIT INSIDE THE HOUSING, BUT FOR THIS GIVEAWAY JEEP I'VE CHOSEN TO PUT TOGETHER A COUPLE OF VERY UNIQUE NODULAR IRON DROP OUTS. NOW LOOKING AT THIS THIRD MEMBER SITTING ON THE BENCH YOU WOULD THINK THAT THIS IS HOW IT WOULD BE INSTALLED INTO THE AXLE, THIS IS THE TOP, BUT YOU WOULD BE WRONG. THIS DROP OUT IS FROM A COMPANY CALLED TRUE HIGH NINE. NOW THEY MAKE A TRUE HIGH PINION DIFFERENTIAL FOR THE NINE INCH SERIES AXLE. THAT GIVES US A GOOD THREE TO FOUR INCHES OF ADDITIONAL GROUND CLEARANCE FOR OUR DRIVESHAFT ONCE THIS IS INSTALLED INTO THE AXLE. NOW IT WORKS HAND IN HAND WITH A MODIFIED PINION SUPPORT FOR THE REAR AXLE WITH THIS OIL SCRAPER THAT IS DESIGNED TO SCAVENGE OIL OFF THE RING GEAR DURING LOW SPEED OPERATION TO KEEP THE PINION BEARINGS WELL LUBRICATED. NOW THE GEAR RATIO IS A 5.38 AND IT'S A GEAR SET SPECIFICALLY BUILT FOR TRUE HIGH NINE TO WORK IN THIS DROP OUT. I'LL MOUNT THAT RING GEAR ON A SET OF YUKON ZIP LOCKERS. NOW THIS IS AN AIR OPERATED LOCKING DIFFERENTIAL. THAT MEANS WHEN IT'S UNLOCKED IT'S AN OPEN DIFFERENTIAL. THE TIRES TURN INDEPENDENT OF EACH OTHER, BUT WHEN YOU WANT THAT MAXIMUM TRACTION YOU JUST HAVE TO APPLY COMPRESSED AIR TO THE DIFFERENTIAL AND IT LOCKS THE TWO TIRES TOGETHER, GIVING US TONS OF TRACTION. NOW THAT IS A HUGE DEAL IF YOU PLAN TO USE THE VEHICLE AS A DUAL PURPOSE RIG, BOTH ON AND OFF ROAD. ON ROAD, UNLOCK IT, OPEN DIFFERENTIAL, VEHICLE WILL DRIVE JUST LIKE A REGULAR CAR, GOOD STEERING AS WELL, AND WHEN YOU'RE OFF ROAD LOCK IT TOGETHER, ALL THE TRACTION YOU'RE GONNA NEED. NOW AS WELL FROM YUKON I GOT A COMPLETE MASTER INSTALL KIT AND A 13-50 SERIES YOKE FOR THE FORD NINE INCH. NOW YOU HAVE A COUPLE OF OPTIONS WHEN IT COMES TO THE INSTALL KITS FROM THE FACTORY. THE FORD NINE INCH USES A CRUSH SLEEVE TO SET PINION BEARING PRELOAD. YOU CAN OPT INSTEAD FOR ONE OF THESE SOLID SPACER INSTALL KITS. NOW THAT JUST REPLACES THE CRUSH SLEEVE WITH THIS SMALL SOLID SPACER AND SHIM PACK. THAT JUST ALLOWS YOU TO FINE TUNE THAT PINION BEARING PRELOAD AND ENSURE THAT IT'S NEVER GONNA CHANGE. THERE'S ONE OTHER BENEFIT TO THE TRUE HIGH NINE NODULAR DROP OUT. SEE THERE'S RING GEAR DEFLECTION INSIDE AN AXLE NO MATTER WHAT, AND FROM THE FACTORY IT'S PREVENTED ON THE PINION BY A NOSE BEARING, BUT THAT DOESN'T MEAN THAT THE RING GEAR STILL CAN'T PUSH OFF OF THAT PINION. SO TRUE HIGH NINE USES WHAT'S CALLED A LOAD BOLT.

NOW THIS WILL MOUNT INSIDE THE ACTUAL DIFFERENTIAL AND WILL REST JUST OFF OF THE RING GEAR WHEN IT'S TURNING. IF YOU EVER GET IN A SITUATION WHERE YOU PUT A LOT OF PRESSURE INTO THAT GEAR SET AND IT STARTS TO DEFLECT, IT WILL TOUCH THAT LOAD BOLT, KEEPING MAXIMUM GEAR TOOTH CONTACT, MAXIMUM STRENGTH INSIDE THE GEAR SET.

YOU NEVER HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT IT FAILING FROM

POSSIBLE DEFLECTION. ASSEMBLY STARTS BY PRESSING THE REAR BEARING

ONTO OUR NEW PINION. THE PINION IS THEN ASSEMBLED INTO THE PINION SUPPORT WITH THE INCLUDED SPACER KIT.

PINION BEARING PRELOAD IS CHECKED AND THE SHIM COUNT IS ADJUSTED UNTIL PROPER PRELOAD IS REACHED. PINION SEAL IS THEN INSTALLED AND THE PINION SUPPORT IS ASSEMBLED FOR GOOD. THE RING GEAR IS INSTALLED ONTO THE ZIP LOCKER USING SOME

ARP FASTENERS AND THREAD LOCKER. [ air ratchet spinning ] IT'S DROPPED INTO OUR THIRD MEMBER ALONG WITH THE PINION SUPPORT, AND BACK LASH IS ADJUSTED USING THE THREADED SIDE ADJUSTORS.

THE LOAD BOLT IS TURNED IN UNTIL IT CONTACTS THE RING GEAR, AND THEN IS BACKED OUT A QUARTER OF A TURN TO ELIMINATE DRAG AGAINST THE BACK SIDE OF THE GEAR.

THE COPPER FEED LINE FOR THE AIR LOCKER IS ROUTED TO THE PRETAPPED HOLE IN THE TRUE HIGH NINE DROP OUT AND THE GEAR TOOTH PATTERN IS CHECKED.

(NARRATOR)>> UP NEXT HEAVY DUTY AXLE HOUSINGS DESERVE HEAVY DUTY COMPONENTS.

(IAN)>> WHEN YOU'RE BUILDING CUSTOM AXLE ASSEMBLIES IT'S NOT JUST THE BIG THINGS THAT COUNT. YOU KNOW YOU HAVE TO INSTALL SUSPENSION BRACKETS, AND KNUCKLES, AND SET UP A GEAR SET OR A LOCKER, BUT QUITE OFTEN THE LITTLE THINGS ARE JUST AS IMPORTANT. WHAT TYPE OF AXLE JOINT SHOULD YOU RUN, SHOULD YOU RUN FREE WHEELING HUBS OR A SET OF DRIVE FLANGES, WHAT TYPE OF BRAKE KIT DO YOU NEED TO HAVE FOR AN AXLE LIKE THIS? WELL THAT'S WHAT WE'LL TAKE CARE OF NEXT. WE'LL DROP THE THIRD MEMBER IN, MEASURE FOR SOME AXLE SHAFTS, AND START KNOCKING OUT EACH ONE OF THOSE PIECES INDIVIDUALLY. THE SPIDER TRAX INNER AXLE SEAL IS INSTALLED INTO THE HOUSING AND LUBRICATED WITH WHEEL BEARING GREASE. THE MATING SURFACE FOR THE THIRD MEMBER IS PREPPED ON THE

AXLE HOUSING, AND WE'LL SEAL OUR THIRD MEMBER IN WITH A GOOD LAYER OF RTV SEALANT. THE THIRD MEMBER IS THEN DROPPED ONTO THE HOUSING AND BOLTED INTO PLACE.

THERE'S A FEW OPTIONS WHEN IT COMES TO GETTING AXLE SHAFTS

FOR YOUR CUSTOM AXLE LIKE WE'VE BUILT HERE. YOU CAN TAKE MEASUREMENTS AND THEN GO AHEAD AND HAVE A SET

OF AXLE SHAFTS CUSTOM BUILT SPECIFIC FOR YOUR AXLE.

YOU CAN JUMP ONTO YUKON GEAR AND AXLE DOT COM AND LOOK THROUGH ALL THE STOCK SHAFTS TO SEE IF YOU CAN FIND SOME INNER AXLE SHAFTS THAT ARE CLOSE TO THE RIGHT LENGTH FOR THE AXLE THAT YOU'VE BUILT. YOU MAY JUST HAVE TO TRIM THE ENDS OF THEM TO FIT.

THE OTHER OPTION IS TO GO AHEAD AND BUY WHAT'S CALLED BLANK SHAFTS. THOSE ARE JUST EXTRA LONG SHAFTS WITH NO SPLINES ON THEM. YOU TAKE THOSE SHAFTS TO A CUSTOM MACHINE SHOP, LIKE HUDLOW GEAR AND AXLE, AND THEY'LL GO AHEAD AND MACHINE THE SPLINES INTO THEM AT THE CORRECT LENGTH. NOW NO MATTER WHICH WAY YOU GO, THE FIRST STEP IS MEASURING FOR YOUR INNER AXLE SHAFTS, AND IT CAN BE A LITTLE

BIT TRICKY BECAUSE YOU'RE BASICALLY GONNA BE TAKING A TAPE MEASURE AND FEEDING IT DOWN THE INSIDE OF THE TUBE AND HOPING THAT YOU GET IT IN THE CORRECT POSITION OF THE LOCKER, BUT BELIEVE IT OR NOT THERE IS AN EASIER WAY. WITH THE SHAFT SLID INTO THE AXLE AND FULLY ENGAGED IN THE LOCKER, THE LOCATION OF THE LOWER KING PIN IS MARKED, AND THE SAME THING IS REPEATED ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE. NOW ALL I HAVE TO DO IS MEASURE FROM THE END OF THE AXLE SHAFT TO EITHER MARK, AND I'LL HAVE PRECISE LENGTHS FOR BOTH MY RIGHT AND LEFT INNER AXLE SHAFT. NOW THE GOOD NEWS THE SHORT SIDE SHAFT IS A SHAFT I CAN PULL OFF THE SHELF, A FACTORY UNIT.

THE LONG SIDE, I'M GONNA HAVE TO GET IT CUSTOM MADE. SO I'M GONNA HAVE A BLANK AXLE SPLINED FOR THIS PARTICULAR APPLICATION. NOW WHEN IT COMES TIME TO INSTALL THESE AXLES I'M GONNA USE A SET OF YUKON SUPER JOINTS TO CONNECT BOTH THE INNER AND OUTER AXLE SHAFT. WHENEVER YOU ARE PLANNING AN AXLE BUILD, MAKE SURE THAT YOU INCLUDE MONEY THE BUDGET FOR A GOOD SET OF AXLE JOINTS LIKE THE SUPER JOINTS. FACTORY UJOINTS, THEY JUST DON'T CUT IT. INSIDE THE CAPS OF FACTORY UJOINTS YOU'RE GONNA FIND A BUNCH OF NEEDLE BEARINGS. NOW THOSE ARE THERE TO EXTEND THE LIFE OF THE JOINT, BASICALLY MAKE IT LONGER BETWEEN SERVICE INTERVALS. THE PROBLEM IS THOSE NEEDLES, THEY'RE GONNA BREAK UNDER SEVERE OFF ROAD APPLICATIONS, AND IF YOU DON'T NOTICE THOSE NEEDLE BEARINGS FAILING, WELL THE JOINT'S GONNA FAIL AND IT'S GONNA WRECK YOUR BRAND NEW AXLE SHAFTS.

YOU DON'T HAVE THAT PROBLEM WITH JOINTS LIKE THE SUPER JOINTS CAUSE THEY ARE ONE PIECE. IT'S A BIG CHROMOLY CROSS WITH A STAINLESS STEEL CAP. THERE ARE NO NEEDLE BEARINGS IN THE SYSTEM. YOU DO HAVE TO MAINTAIN THEM A LITTLE BIT MORE BUT THAT IS A GOOD TRADE OFF FOR ALL THE STRENGTH THAT YOU'RE GONNA PICK UP INSIDE YOUR AXLE. NOW ANOTHER DECISION THAT YOU USED TO HAVE TO MAKE WAS WHETHER TO PUT DRIVE FLANGES IN OR FREE WHEELING HUBS.

YOU DON'T HAVE TO DO THAT ANY MORE. YUKON HARDCORE HUBS ARE THE PERFECT OPTION. THEY GIVE YOU ALL THE BENEFITS OF A FREE WHEELING HUB, BEING ABLE TO UNLOCK THAT WHEEL FROM YOUR FRONT AXLE, BUT THEY LOCK TOGETHER WITH THE STRENGTH OF A DRIVE FLANGE, AND THE BEST THING IS IF THEY ARE TO EVER FAIL OFF ROAD THEY DON'T JUST BREAK AND LEAVE THE TIRE AND AXLE SPINNING INDEPENDENTLY. IF THEY FAIL, THEY FAIL LOCKED. SO YOU ALWAYS HAVE A FOUR WHEEL DRIVE TO GET YOU OUT

OF THE WOODS AND BACK ON TO YOUR TRAILER. NOW THESE ITEMS AREN'T READY TO GO INTO OUR AXLE, BUT THAT DOESN'T MEAN THAT WE NEED TO WAIT TO THROW IT UNDERNEATH THE FRONT OF THE JEEP. WE CAN GET IT UP IN THERE AND START LOOKING AT SOME BRAKES.

WHEN IT COMES TO BRAKES ON THESE REED KNUCKLES THE BEST OPTION IS TO RUN A CHEVROLET THREE QUARTER TON CALIPER AND ROTOR.

NOW YOU CAN PICK THOSE UP FROM ROCK AUTO DOT COM. THEY'RE JUST FACTORY PIECES. YOU WILL NEED A CUSTOM BRACKET TO MAKE IT WORK LIKE THIS ONE FROM TMR CUSTOMS. IT JUST BOLTS ON TOP OF THE SPINDLE. THEN OF COURSE, WITH THIS MUCH TRAVEL, CUSTOM BRAKE LINES ARE A MUST. CROWN PERFORMANCE CAN BUILD YOU A SET OF CUSTOM BRAKE LINES FOR ANY APPLICATION AND ANY LENGTH NECESSARY. I HAD THEM PUT A BANJO BOLT ON THIS END AND THE LINE TO HOOK UP TO THE FACTORY HARD LINE ON THE OTHER END, AND I'LL HAVE PLENTY OF LENGTH FOR ALL MY SUSPENSION TRAVEL. AND THAT'S IT, CUSTOM AXLE DONE IN OUR GIVEAWAY LJ. ALL I HAVE TO DO NOW IS DO THE SAME THING IN THE BACK.