Suburban Survival: 6x6

(ANNOUNCER)>> WE'VE PUT TOGETHER SOME PRETTY

EXTREME FOUR BY FOURS OVER THE YEARS, BUT PROJECT SUBURBAN SURVIVAL MAY BE THE MOST EXTREME RIG WE'VE EVER BUILT. WE'RE CONVERTING OUR SURVIVALIST CHEVY INTO A SIX BY SIX WITH A CUSTOM DESIGNED SUSPENSION READY TO HANDLE TWO REAR AXLES. WITH A LITTLE PLANNING AND A LOT OF WORK OUR RIG WILL BE PREPARED FOR THE END OF THE WORLD.

(IAN)>> WE'RE KICKING THINGS OFF TODAY WITH PROJECT SUBURBAN SURVIVAL. NOW I'VE ALREADY GOT THE 12 VALVE IN BETWEEN THE FRAME RAILS AND THE SIX SPEED MANUAL TRANSMISSION UP UNDERNEATH THE FLOOR, BUT I HAVEN'T BOLTED THE BODY BACK INTO PLACE AND THAT'S BECAUSE AFTER

TAKING THE TIME TO PULL I THOUGHT WHY NOT PUSH THIS TRUCK ALL THE WAY OVER THE EDGE WITH ONE MORE CRAZY MODIFICATION. THIS FRAME IS GOING FROM TWO AXLES TO THREE!

BY ADDING A THIRD AXLE TO THIS SUBURBAN I'M BASICALLY BUILDING WHAT'S CALLED A SIX BY SIX.

THAT MEANS THAT WE HAVE SIX WHEELS AND TIRES, ALL OF WHICH WILL RECEIVE POWER FROM OUR DRIVETRAIN, TRUE SIX WHEEL DRIVE. NOW YOU SEE THIS A LOT IN MILITARY APPLICATIONS BECAUSE THEY CAN HANDLE MANY DIFFERENT TYPES OF TERRAIN. YOU'VE GOT TO REMEMBER, WHEN THIS FRONT AXLE STARTS TO DRIVE OVER AN OBSTACLE, THE REAR TIRE IS NOT CLIMBING. IT'S STILL PUSHING THE VEHICLE FORWARD, AND THE SAME THING HAPPENS ONCE THAT FRONT TIRE IS OFF THE OBSTACLE, IT CAN PULL THIS TIRE UP AND OVER IT A LOT EASIER. IT ALSO GIVES THE TRUCK THAT MUCH MORE FLOTATION. WE NOW HAVE SIX CONTACT PATCHES.

IT MEANS WE CAN HANDLE SOME SERIOUS MUDDY AND SLOPPY TERRAIN AND KEEP THE VEHICLE UP IN THE AIR. NOW AS YOU CAN SEE, THE ONE PROBLEM I HAVE IS I'M GONNA NEED TO BUILD A CUSTOM SUSPENSION FOR THESE TWO AXLES. HERE I HAVE A FRAME RAIL THAT'S STILL HOLDING THE FACTORY LEAF SPRING IN PLACE, BUT OUT BACK THERE'S NOTHING HERE TO BUILD FROM.

SO THE FIRST STEP IN THIS CONVERSION,

ALL NEW FRAME RAIL. THE FACTORY GAS TANK HAS TO GO ANYWAY BECAUSE OF

OUR DIESEL CONVERSION.

THEN THE CENTER LINE OF THE REAR AXLE IS MARKED ONTO THE FRAME. NEW FRAME RAILS ARE MEASURED FOR AND CUT OUT OF TWO BY THREE, THREESIXTEENTHS INCH RECTANGULAR TUBING.

[ HAMMER TAPPING ] [ GRINDER SPINNING ]

(IAN)>> A NEW CROSS MEMBER IS PLACED INSIDE THE TRUCK'S FRAME, AND THE REAR AXLE AND LEAF SPRING ASSEMBLY IS REMOVED.

WHOO!

[ SAW CUTTING ]

(IAN)>> TIMBER! THE NEW FRAME RAILS ARE SET INTO PLACE ON THE FLOOR, CHECKED FOR SQUARE, AND WELDED. THEN THEY'RE SET INTO PLACE, LEVELED, AND TACKED ONTO OUR ORIGINAL FRAME. NOW IT MAY LOOK LIKE THINGS HAVE GOTTEN COMPLETELY OUT OF HAND HERE WITH CUTTING THE FRAME IN HALF, BUT ACTUALLY IT IS A LOT

EASIER TO START WITH TWO OF THESE NICE, FLAT, PARALLEL FRAME RAILS. NOW YES, THE SUBURBAN IS NO INCREDIBLY LONG.

WE'RE ACTUALLY ALMOST 24 FEET BUMPER TO BUMPER, BUT MY PLAN IS TO GRAFT ON A CHEVY PICK UP TRUCK BED ONTO THE BACK OF THE SUBURBAN BODY. SO THAT'S WHY I HAVE ALL THE EXTRA LENGTH. NOW SUSPENSION FOR A SIX BY SIX, THERE'S ACTUALLY A LOT OF DIFFERENT OPTIONS. THERE'S SOME TRADITIONAL ROUTES AND SOME MORE MODERN SETUPS, AND IT ALL DEPENDS ON WHICH ONE'S GONNA WORK BEST FOR YOU. THE REAR SUSPENSION ON A SIX BY SIX CAN BE INCREDIBLY COMPLICATED. THIS IS AN ENGINEERED DRAWING OF THE SUSPENSION ON THE BACK OF A VEHICLE THAT AXLE TECH BUILDS FOR THE MILITARY.

IT'S CALLED A "BUFFALO" AND IT IS A MASSIVE, HIGHLY COMPLICATED VEHICLE. AND YOU CAN SEE THERE'S A LOT OF STUFF GOING ON. THERE'S ACTUALLY ALMOST NO WAY TO JUST BUILD A SUSPENSION THIS GOOD IN YOUR SHOP. SO WHAT' I'M GONNA DO IS BUILD SOMETHING THAT'S A LITTLE BIT MORE TAME. NOW I COULD DO A LINK TYPE SUSPENSION LIKE THIS WITH A COUPLE OF LINKS COMING OFF EACH AXLE, TRAVELING FORWARD, BIG DROP DOWN BRACKET, SOME TYPE OF SPRING, EITHER AN AIR BAG OR A COIL SPRING, BUT I'M NOT A BIG FAN OF THAT. SEE I'M TRYING TO KEEP THINGS KINDA SIMPLE. SO WHAT I'M GOING TO DO IS I'M GOING TO BUILD A SUSPENSION THAT'S CALLED AN INVERTED LEAF REAR SUSPENSION. BASICALLY YOU'RE GONNA MOUNT A LEAF SPRING UPSIDE DOWN IN THE FRAME, AND IT'LL ATTACH TO BOTH THE FRONT AND THE REAR DRIVE AXLES IN OUR SIX BY SIX SETUP. THAT WILL ALLOW THE SUSPENSION TO MOVE UP AND DOWN AND THE LEAF WILL HELP LOCATED THE AXLE. I'LL STILL HAVE TO ADD A COUPLE OF SUSPENSION LINKS IN KEY PLACES, BUT THE ACTUAL SPRING ITSELF WILL HELP LOCATE EVERYTHING IN PLACE. IF YOU DO PLAN TO BUILD AN INVERTED LEAF SUSPENSION SYSTEM ONE THING YOU NEED TO PLAN IS TO HAVE A PIVOT POINT ON THE FRAME. YOU CAN SEE THIS PART OF THE SPRING MUST MOVE BACK AND FORTH AS THE TIRE AND WHEELS TRAVEL UP AND DOWN, AND THAT WAY IT'S NOT PUTTING AN EXCESSIVE AMOUNT OF PRESSURE ON THE FRONT OR THE BACK OF THE SPRING. IT'S BASICALLY JUST LETTING THE SPRING ROCK IN PLACE AS THE FRONT AND REAR TIRES MOVE UP AND DOWN. SO WITH A PLAN IN PLACE ALL I HAVE TO DO NOW IS START MOCKING STUFF UP.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, A COUPLE OF 14 BOLTS AND A REPURPOSED FRONT LEAF SPRING LAY THE FOUNDATION

FOR OUR SIX BY SIX SUSPENSION.

(IAN)>> WE ARE BACK ON XTREME OFF ROAD CONVERTING OUR SUBURBAN TO A SIX BY SIX MONSTER BY BUILDING A CUSTOM SUSPENSION AND ADDING A SECOND 14 BOLT REAR AXLE.

NOW ONE OF THE KEY COMPONENTS TO THE SIX BY SIX REAR SUSPENSION IS OBVIOUSLY A SECOND AXLE. NOW THAT MEANS I HAVE TO GO AHEAD AND PREP ANOTHER 14 BOLT WITH OUR AXLE TECH PORTAL ASSEMBLIES ON EITHER END, BUT BEFORE I DO THAT I CAN GO AHEAD AND

START WORKING ON THE SUSPENSION. THE KEY TO THIS ENTIRE PACKAGE IS GONNA BE FINDING A LEAF SPRING THAT WILL BRIDGE THE GAP BETWEEN BOTH THE FRONT AND THE REAR AXLE, AND I HAVE A PLAN. I'M ACTUALLY GONNA PULL THE LEAF SPRING OUT OF THE FRONT SUSPENSION AND SEE IF IT WILL WORK. AND IF IT DOES, I'LL PICK UP ONE OF THESE TO MOUNT IN THE BACK.

THE LEAF SPRING NEEDS A PIVOT POINT. SO A SECTION OF THREE INCH DOM TUBING IS CUT, PREPPED, AND A SPRING PERCH IS ADDED ALONG WITH UBOLTS AND A SPRING PLATE. [ WELDER CRACKLING ]

(IAN)>> THE LEAF SPRING ASSEMBLY IS THEN HUNG ON A TEMPORARY PIECE OF TUBING TACKED ONTO THE FRAME.

NOW THE GOOD NEWS IS THAT THE FRONT SPRING ACTUALLY WILL WORK JUST FINE IN THE REAR.

WHAT I WAS WORRIED ABOUT WAS THE OVERALL SPRING LENGTH. YOU HAVE TO REMEMBER, THE EYES OF THE SPRING NEED TO LAND CLOSE TO THE TOP OF EACH AXLE TUBE, AND IF THE SPRING IS TOO SHORT THE TIRES WILL TOUCH EACH OTHER WHILE THEY'RE TRYING TO TURN, BUT RIGHT NOW WE HAVE ABOUT EIGHT, 10 INCHES IN BETWEEN THE TIRES, WHICH IS FINE BECAUSE AS THE SUSPENSION COMPRESSES AND CYCLES THE TIRES WILL ACTUALLY MOVE AWAY FROM EACH OTHER. THEY WILL NEVER MOVE CLOSER TOGETHER. NOW THIS UPPER PIVOT IS OBVIOUSLY JUST MOCKED INTO PLACE. EVENTUALLY I'LL RUN A CROSS MEMBER ALL THE WAY ACROSS TO TIE THE TWO SPRINGS TOGETHER, BUT YOU CAN SEE HOW THE SUSPENSION NOW WORKS. WHEN YOU'RE DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD THE FRONT TIRE GOES OVER A BUMP, THE FRONT SPRING GOES UP, PUSHES DOWN ON THE REAR SPRING, USES THE BACK HALF

OF THE LEAF SPRING IN THE SYSTEM. IF FOR WHATEVER REASON BOTH TIRES HIT A BUMP AT THE SAME TIME, THAT'S WHEN THE SPRING WILL STAY STATIONARY AND THE TWO SIDES OF THE SPRING WILL GO UP AND DOWN. I DO NEED TO MAKE PROVISIONS FOR THE FRONT OF THE SPRING TO SWING. NOW I CAN EITHER DO THAT WITH A SHACKLE OR DO THAT WITH WHAT IS CALLED A SLIDER BOX. I'M USING THE SLIDER BOX BECAUSE IT WILL KEEP THE AXLE LOWER TO THE GROUND, WON'T ADD A BUNCH OF HEIGHT, AND WILL WORK PERFECT FOR OUR SETUP.

WITH THE STOCK BRACKETS REMOVED, THE AXLE TUBE IS PREPPED AND A TEMPLATE FOR THE SIDE OF THE NEW SLIDER BOX IS MADE FROM CARDBOARD.

THE FIRST BOX WILL BE HAND CUT FOR MOCK UP, AND TACKED IN PLACE ON THE AXLE TUBE.

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP, A FOUR LINK SETUP COMPLETES THE DESIGN OF OUR REAR SUSPENSION.

(IAN)>> WITH THE SLIDER BOXES MOCKED UP ON BOTH THE FRONT AND REAR, REAR AXLE, THE SPRING IS NOW IN THE CORRECT PLACE IN THE SYSTEM. NOW I'M NOT DONE WITH THESE SLIDER BOXES YET. I STILL NEED TO BOX THEM IN FOR STRENGTH AND ADD A

PLATE THAT WILL ACTUALLY SUPPORT THE SPRING EYE IN THE SYSTEM INSTEAD OF RELYING ON THIS BOLT AS IT SLIDES BACK AND FORTH. THAT WAY THE WEIGHT OF THE TRUCK WILL BE SUPPORTED BY STEEL, WHICH IS WELDED TO THE AXLE, INSTEAD OF THE EDGE OF THAT BOLT SLIDING BACK AND FORTH IN THE GROOVE. IT'S KINDA LIKE A SLIPPER SPRING THAT YOU SEE ON A TRAILER. THOSE SPRINGS HAVE JUST A LITTLE RAMP BENT INTO THE END OF THEM, AND THEY SLIDE BACK AND FORTH ON A FLAT PIECE OF STEEL. WE'RE USING THE SPRING WITH THE EYE BECAUSE IT WILL KEEP THE SPRING LOCKED INTO PLACE AS THE AXLE ARTICULATES. NOW THE LEAF SPRING ITSELF DOES NOT LOCATE THESE AXLES UNDERNEATH THE TRUCK LIKE IT DOES IN A CONVENTIONAL LEAF SPRING SETUP. I STILL NEED TO BUILD SOME TYPE OF FOUR LINK. NOW TO DO THAT I'M GONNA USE THESE HEIM JOINTS THAT I GOT FROM ROUGH STUFF SPECIALTIES. THESE ARE INCH AND QUARTER HEIMS WITH A THREE QUARTER INCH THROUGH BOLT. THEY'RE HEAT TREATED AND CRYOGENICALLY TREATED FOR

EXTRA STRENGTH, AND I'LL BASICALLY BE BUILDING A CUSTOM FOUR LINK ON BOTH AXLES, BUT IT'S GONNA BE A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENT. THE FRONT FOUR LINK WILL ACTUALLY BE TRAVELING BACKWARDS. IT WILL BE BEHIND THE AXLE AND ATTACHED TO A CROSS

MEMBER BACK HERE. THE REAR AXLE FOUR LINK WILL BE SOMETHING THAT'S A LITTLE BIT MORE CONVENTIONAL.

IT'LL BE TRAVELING FORWARD. THE REASON I'M GONNA HAVE ALL THE LINK BARS MEETING

IN ONE SPOT IS THAT WAY AS THE SUSPENSION COMPRESSES, THE TIRES AND WHEELS WILL MOVE AWAY FROM EACH OTHER, GIVING ME MORE SPACE IN BETWEEN THEM.

I NEVER HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT THEM ACTUALLY EVER CONTACTING EACH OTHER IF ONE AXLE IS OVER A LARGE OBSTACLE AND THE OTHER AXLE IS DROOPING ALL THE WAY OUT. ALL I HAVE TO DO NOW IS CUT UP MORE STEEL.

WITH MULTIPLE IDENTICAL SUSPENSION BRACKETS TO BE MADE, THE BEST WAY TO DO IT IS TO DRAW EACH PART IN FAST CAM. THEN FIRE UP THE ESAB CROSSBOW PLASMA TABLE AND START CUTTING.

THE BRACKETS ARE THEN ASSEMBLED WITH THE HEIMS IN PLACE AND TACKED ONTO THE AXLES. [ WELDER CRACKLING ]

(IAN)>> FOR CORRECT SUSPENSION GEOMETRY A DROP BRACKET NEEDS TO BE ADDED TO OUR NEW EXTENDED FRAME RAIL. [ GRINDER SPINNING ] [ WELDER CRACKLING ]

(IAN)>> THEN SUSPENSION LINKS ARE CUT FROM INCH

AND THREE QUARTER DOM AND SLID INTO PLACE.

THE FOUR LINK IS BUILT SO THE MOUNTS ARE TOGETHER RIGHT AT THE PIVOT POINT FOR THE LEAF SPRING AND IT'S DONE THIS WAY TO PREVENT THE TIRES EVER FROM TOUCHING EACH OTHER. YOU CAN SEE AS THE AXLE TRAVELS UP AND DOWN, IT ACTUALLY MOVES FURTHER AWAY FROM THE CENTER LINE OF OUR SUSPENSION MOUNT, AND THE FRONT AXLE

WILL DO THE OPPOSITE. IT'LL MOVE FURTHER FORWARD. THAT JUST PREVENTS THAT FROM EVER HAPPENING NO MATTER HOW MUCH ARTICULATION WE GET IN THIS REAR SUSPENSION. NOW OBVIOUSLY I'VE ONLY BUILT HALF OF OUR FOUR LINK, JUST THIS ONE SIDE OF THE TRUCK. I NEED TO DUPLICATE IT ON THE OTHER SIDE, AND I HAVE TO ADD ONE MORE SUSPENSION LINK. I NEED A PAN HARD BAR BECAUSE I'M BASICALLY BUILDING A PARALLEL FOUR LINK SETUP. THE PAN HARD BAR WILL HELP LOCATE THIS AXLE, KEEP IT FROM MOVING SIDE TO SIDE. NOW MY PLAN IS, SINCE I NEED TO BUILD TWO OF THEM, IS TO BASICALLY RUN THEM IN OPPOSITE DIRECTIONS. THE REAR AXLE PAN HARD BAR WILL COME OFF THE AXLE HOUSING UP TO THE FRAME IN THIS ANGLE, AND THE FRONT AXLE WILL BE THE OPPOSITE. IT'LL BE MOUNTED ONTO THE FRAME ON THIS SIDE OF THE

TRUCK AND DOWN ONTO THE AXLE ONTO THE OTHER SIDE. THAT WAY AS THE AXLES COMPRESS AND CYCLE THEY'LL ACTUALLY BE MOVING OPPOSITE DIRECTIONS. THEY'LL ALWAYS END UP WITH TIRES PERFECTLY CENTERED UNDERNEATH THE TRUCK. THEN ALL I HAVE TO DO IS LOSE THIS TEMPORARY PIVOT POINT, RUN A CROSS MEMBER ALL THE WAY ACROSS THE FRAME, REMOUNT THE SPRINGS, FINISH OUT MY SLIDER BOXES, INSTALL THIS PORTAL HOUSING IN PLACE, BOLT THE PORTALS UP, AND THEN THE SUSPENSION WILL BE READY TO WELD. [ WELDER CRACKLING ]

(IAN)>> WITH THE FOUR LINK COMPLETED ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE OF THE TRUCK, THE CHASSIS RAILS ARE CUT FOR OUR NEW CROSS MEMBER. A PIECE OF QUARTER INCH WALL DOM IS THEN SLID THROUGH THE FRAME RAIL TO BE THE CROSS MEMBER AND THE PIVOT POINT FOR OUR REAR LEAF SPRINGS. WITH THE SPRING BACK IN PLACE THE REAR SUSPENSION IS ABOUT 90 PERCENT MOCKED UP. I HAVE A BUNCH OF FINISH WELDING I HAVE TO DO BEFORE I GO ANY FURTHER JUST TO PREVENT THINGS FROM MOVING AROUND WHILE I'M WORKING. A COUPLE OF KEY ITEMS I WILL STILL NEED TO ADDRESS. THE FIRST, I HAVE TO ADD SOME TYPE OF DELRIN MATERIAL OR POLY MATERIAL TO THE TOP OF THIS SLIDER BOX SO I DON'T HAVE METAL ON METAL CONTACT BETWEEN THE SPRING EYE AND THE BOX ITSELF. PLUS I STILL NEED TO BOX THOSE SLIDER BOXES IN FOR STRENGTH. I'LL DO ALL OF THAT WHEN THE AXLE IS OUT FROM UNDERNEATH THE CHASSIS. THIS SMALL PIECE OF TWO INCH DOM IS JUST A SPACER. I'M GONNA HAVE TO REPLACE IT WITH A PIECE OF ALUMINUM DOM, AND THAT'LL ACT AS A BUSHING IN THIS SYSTEM. I DON'T WANT TO HAVE STEEL, ON STEEL, ON STEEL. THAT COULD CAUSE CORROSION AND CAUSE THE SPRING TO SEIZE. TO AN ALUMINUM SLEEVE HERE INSTEAD OF THE STEEL ONE WILL ACTUALLY MAKE THINGS WORK SEAMLESSLY. I ALSO NEED TO ADD A CAP TO THIS. I'LL HAVE TO HAVE SOME TYPE OF REMOVABLE PLATE THAT WILL BOLT IN PLACE AND KEEP THIS SPRING FROM WALKING BACK AND FORTH. NOW EVEN THOUGH THIS REAR SUSPENSION LOOKS INCREDIBLY COMPLICATED, THERE IS A METHOD TO THIS MADNESS. YOU HAVE TO REMEMBER, THIS IS AN END OF THE WORLD TYPE OF VEHICLE. WE NEED TO PLAN FOR ANY POSSIBLE FAILURE. THE IDEAL THING ABOUT THIS SUSPENSION IS ALL OF OUR LINKS ARE THE SAME LENGTH, UPPERS, LOWERS, FRONTS, REARS, ALL THE SIDES.

SO IF ANYTHING HAPPENS I JUST NEED TO CARRY ONE SPARE LINK. THIS LEAF SPRING, BECAUSE IT CAME OUT OF THE FRONT OF THE TRUCK, IS NOW THE SAME SIZE LEAF ON ALL FOUR CORNERS. I'LL ONLY NEED TO CARRY ONE SPARE LEAF PACK FOR THE ENTIRE RIG. NOW THE FRONT SUSPENSION, WELL THAT'S NEXT.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT WE TACKLE PROJECT SUBURBAN

SURVIVAL'S FRONT SUSPENSION.

(IAN)>> CONSIDERING HOW COMPLICATED THE REAR

SUSPENSION ON THIS TRUCK HAS BEEN, THE FRONT IS

GONNA BE VERY EASY. IF YOU REMEMBER, WE'VE ALREADY PUT TOGETHER THIS CUSTOM WIDTH FORD HIGH PINION DANA 60 WITH THE KING PIN OUTERS AND OUR AXLE TECH PORTAL MOUNTS. ALL WE HAVE TO DO NOW IS FIGURE OUT HOW TO SLING IT UNDERNEATH THE FRAME, AND TO KEEP THINGS SIMPLE ALL I'M GONNA DO IS REPLACE THE FACTORY LEAF SPRINGS. WHEN OUR TRUCK FIRST SHOWED UP HERE IN THE SHOP IT HAD A SET OF SIX INCH BDS LIFT LEAVES IN THE FRONT. WELL NOW THOSE ARE OUT BACK, BUT MORE IMPORTANTLY I WASN'T GONNA USE THEM. SO YOU HAVE TO REMEMBER, OUR PORTAL BOXES ADD ALMOST FIVE INCHES OF ADDITIONAL HEIGHT TO OUR TRUCK. SO IF I STACK THEM UNDERNEATH A SIX INCH LEAF THAT MEANS I'VE GOT 11 INCHES OF SUSPENSION LIFT. THAT WOULD BE JUST TOO MUCH EVEN FOR 46 INCH TALL TIRES. I NEEDED TO STEP DOWN THE HEIGHT OF THE LEAF. I HAD BDS SEND ME A SET OF THESE TWO INCH LIFT LEAVES. NOW THESE ARE FULL REPLACEMENT BRAND NEW HEAVY DUTY LEAF PACKS SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR THE FRONT OF OUR SUBURBAN. AND HONESTLY, ONCE THESE ARE BOLTED UP, OUR FRONT SUSPENSION IS ALL DONE. BDS SUPPLIES NEW BUSHINGS FOR EITHER END OF THE LEAF SPRING, AND ONCE INSTALLED THE SPRING IS MOUNTED TO THE FRONT HANGER AND THE REAR SWING SHACKLE.

OUR NEW LEAF SPRINGS DO COME WITH A COMPLETE SET OF UBOLTS FROM BDS, BUT THERE IS A PROBLEM. THEIR DESIGNED TO WORK WITH THE STOCK AXLE HOUSING. AS YOU CAN SEE, THEY WILL NOT FIT AROUND OUR HIGH PINION 60 FORD.

NOW RESIST THE URGE TO JUST MAKE THESE UBOLTS FIT. THE LAST THING YOU WANT TO DO IS STRETCH A UBOLT OUT AND FORCE IT AROUND AN AXLE TUBE. IT PUTS TOO MUCH STRESS ON THE BOLT ITSELF.

THESE ARE HARDENED STEEL.

ANY EXCESSIVE FORCE WILL CAUSE THEM TO FAIL DOWN THE ROAD. YOU WANT TO GET THE CORRECT SET OF UBOLTS FOR YOUR AXLE. NOW I'M GONNA GET A COMPLETE SET FROM BARNES FOUR WHEEL DRIVE, AND I'LL ALSO ENSURE THAT I GET THE EXTRA LARGE UBOLTS THAT THEY OFFER. THESE WILL BE WRAPPING AROUND THE ACTUAL AXLE CENTER SECTION BECAUSE THIS HOUSING HAS THE PERCH CAST INTO PLACE. WE NEED AN EXTRA LARGE UBOLT TO FIT AROUND THIS SPECIFIC SPOT. THEN WE CAN GO AHEAD AND INSTALL THE AXLE, BUT BEFORE I DO ANY OF THAT I NEED TO DEAL WITH THE INTERNALS ON BOTH THIS FRONT AXLE, THE REAR AXLE, AND THE REAR REAR AXLE. THAT'S WHAT WE'LL DO NEXT TIME ON PROJECT SUBURBAN SURVIVAL.