Pinion Brake Tech

(ANNOUNCER)>> WHEN WE RESCUED THIS VINTAGE KAISER JEEP FROM THE SCRAP HEAP WE HAD A VISION. REBUILD IT WITH A MODERN DRIVETRAIN BUT PRESERVE ITS WEATHERED APPEARANCE. TODAY ON XTREME OFF ROAD WE FILL A SET OF JUNKYARD AXLES WITH HIGH PERFORMANCE AIR LOCKERS, GEARS, AND MORE.

PLUS IT TAKES A LOT OF POWER TO MAKE BIG FOOT GO, BUT STOPPING IT TAKES LESS THAN YOU MIGHT THINK. WE'LL EXPLAIN WHY.

(IAN)>> TODAY IN THE XOR SHOP WE'RE GONNA WORK ON

SOME OF THE DRIVETRAIN COMPONENTS FOR PROJECT LOCKJAW. THAT MEANS I GET TO KICK THINGS OFF TODAY BY DOING A COUPLE OF MY FAVORITE JOBS AND THAT IS REBUILDING A COUPLE OF AXLE ASSEMBLIES.

BUT WHAT'S REALLY UNIQUE ABOUT THIS PROJECT IS THE AXLES THAT I HAVE CHOSEN, BOTH FRONT AND REAR, ARE COMPLETELY DIFFERENT. YEAH ONE'S A STEERING AXLE AND ONE'S A REAR AXLE, BUT WHAT'S MORE IMPORTANT IS HOW YOU SET UP THE GEAR SETS INSIDE OF THEM WILL BE COMPLETELY UNIQUE. THE FRONT AXLE IS A FORD HIGH PINION DANA 60 OUT OF A 2003 FORD SUPER DUTY PICK UP. A BALL JOINT AXLE ASSEMBLY WITH UNIT BEARINGS AND FACTORY FREE WHEELING HUBS. THE AXLE HAS A NINE AND THREE QUARTER INCH RING GEAR, AND THE AXLE TUBES MEASURE THREE AND AN EIGHTH OF AN INCH ROUND. FOR THE REAR IS AN AAM CORPORATE 14 BOLT FROM UNDER A 1990 CHEVROLET ONE TON PICK UP. THE 14 BOLT HAS A 10.5 INCH RING GEAR, FULL FLOATING AXLES, AND A REMOVABLE PINION SUPPORT.

THE FIRST STEP TO BUILDING THESE AXLES WILL BE THE

SAME FRONT AND REAR, TEAR DOWN THE ENTIRE AXLE ASSEMBLY AND CUT OFF ALL THE BRACKETS TO

GET TO BARE TUBES.

THE FRONT AXLE RECEIVES THE SAME TREATMENT AS THE REAR, TORN DOWN COMPLETELY AND ALL THE BRACKETS CUT OFF THE TUBE. THE CENTER SECTIONS OF BOTH OF OUR AXLES ARE GOING TO BE IDENTICAL FRONT AND REAR. I PICKED UP EVERYTHING TO ASSEMBLE THEM FROM REVOLUTION GEAR AND AXLE. A SET OF ARB AIR LOCKERS, MASTER INSTALL KITS, AND 4.56 RING AND PINIONS FOR BOTH FRONT AND REAR. NOW THE NICE THING ABOUT THE ARB IS IT'S A TRUE SELECTABLE LOCKER. WHEN IT'S UNLOCKED, IT'S AN OPEN DIFFERENTIAL. TIRES TURN INDEPENDENTLY OF EACH OTHER. PERFECT FOR TIGHT TRAILS OR WHEN YOU'RE DRIVING ON THE STREET.

BUT WHEN YOU NEED THAT MAXIMUM TRACTION YOU SIMPLY APPLY COMPRESSED AIR TO THE BLUE AIR LINE, WHICH ATTACHES TO THIS COPPER FEED TUBE AND ONTO THE AIR FITTING ON THE LOCKER. IT MOVES THE PISTON INSIDE THAT LOCKER, LOCKS BOTH THE AXLE SHAFTS TOGETHER. YOU BASICALLY HAVE A SPOOL, 100 PERCENT TRACTION TO BOTH WHEELS AT ALL TIMES. NOW I TOLD YOU THAT THESE AXLES WERE COMPLETELY DIFFERENT, AND IT'S OBVIOUSLY NOT THE PARTS THAT ARE GOING IN THEM. IT HAS TO DO WITH THE SETUP OF THE RING AND THE PINION. WHEN WE INSTALL THE RING AND THE PINION THERE'S A FEW KEY ITEMS THAT WE'RE GONNA BE ADJUSTING. THE FIRST IS THE PINION DEPTH IN THE AXLE HOUSING. WE ACTUALLY MOVE THE PINION BACK AND FORTH ON THE RING GEAR TO GET AN OPTIMAL CONTACT PATCH. NOW THAT IS DONE BY CHANGING THE DEPTH OF THE PINION. NOW THE SECOND IS BACK LASH. THAT'S THE ACTUAL SPACE BETWEEN THE GEARS IN THE RING AND THE PINION THAT ALLOW OIL TO FIT IN BETWEEN THE TWO TO LUBRICATE THE GEAR SET. NEXT IS BEARING PRELOAD.

NOW THE SIDE BEARINGS ON THE DIFFERENTIALS, WE WANT TO MAKE SURE THAT THEY STAY GOOD AND TIGHT. SO WE NEED TO ADD SOME ADDITIONAL PRESSURE TO THOSE TAPERED ROLLER BEARINGS BECAUSE AS THEY WEAR INTO THE RACE, THEY ACTUALLY LOOSEN UP SLIGHTLY.

AND A SMALL DIFFERENCE OF JUST A COUPLE THOUSANDTHS OF AN INCH CAN THROW OFF THE SETTING OF OUR GEAR SET. NOW ALL OF THESE ITEMS NEED TO BE ADJUSTED PERFECTLY BUT HOW WE DO THEM ON EACH AXLE, WELL THAT'S DIFFERENT.

STEP ONE IN BUILDING OUR AXLES, INSTALL THE RING GEAR AND SIDE BEARINGS ONTO BOTH LOCKERS.

THE PINION BEARINGS ARE THEN PRESSED ONTO BOTH PINIONS, AND FOR THE REAR 14 BOLT THE PINION SUPPORT

IS COMPLETELY ASSEMBLED. THE 14 BOLT'S PINION DEPTH IS ADJUSTED BY USING SHIMS UNDER THE SUPPORT WHEN IT'S BOLTED INTO THE HOUSING. ON THE DANA 60 PINION DEPTH IS ADJUSTED BY A SHIM UNDER THE PINION BEARING RACE. T&D MACHINE MAKES THIS PINION DEPTH MEASURING TOOL THAT ALLOWS YOU TO CALCULATE THE SHIM THICKNESS BEFORE ASSEMBLING THE AXLE. ON THE 14 BOLT BACK LASH IS SET BY ADJUSTORS ON

EITHER SIDE OF THE CARRIER, WHICH MOVES THE RING GEAR BACK AND FORTH IN THE HOUSING. ON THE DANA 60 BACK LASH IS ADJUSTED BY CHANGING THE SHIM PACKS THAT FIT IN BETWEEN THE SIDE BEARINGS AND THE HOUSING ON EITHER SIDE OF THE CARRIER.

BASICALLY MOVING THAT RING GEAR BACK AND FORTH. NOW THOSE SHIM PACKS AS WELL AS THE ADJUSTORS IN THE 14 BOLT ALSO EFFECT THE BEARING PRELOAD ON THAT CARRIER. AND I'M SURE YOU'VE FIGURED OUT BY NOW, IT IS A LOT EASIER TO SET UP AND FINE TUNE A 14 BOLT THAN IT IS A DANA 60. THERE'S JUST LESS STEPS. THAT'S WHY IT'S THE PERFECT AXLE FOR YOU GUYS

AT HOME IF THIS IS GONNA BE THE FIRST SET OF GEARS YOU'VE EVER SET UP. GRAB A 14 BOLT AND DIVE RIGHT IN. NOW WITH ARB THERE'S A COUPLE EXTRA STEP. I STILL NEED TO DRILL AND TAP THE HOUSING FOR THE BULK HEAD FITTING THAT ATTACHES TO THIS COPPER FEED LINE TO ACTUATE THE AIR LOCKER. BUT I ALWAYS LIKE TO DO THAT VERY LAST.

I'LL DO ALL THE GEAR SET UP. THEN I'LL DRILL THE HOUSING AND RUN THE COPPER LINE.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT WE'LL TOP OFF OUR AXLE HOUSINGS WITH DISC BRAKES, A BULLET PROOF TRUSS, AND HEAVY DUTY SHAFTS. PLUS A TRANSFER CASE THAT'S READY FOR ANYTHING.

(IAN)>> WITH OUR ARB'S AND GEAR SET INSTALLED WE CAN NOW FINISH OUT BOTH THE FRONT AND REAR AXLE. NOW I'LL START WITH THE REAR AXLE ASSEMBLY. I'LL CUT TO FIT SOME OF THESE REVOLUTION GEAR AND AXLE UNIVERSAL 14 BOLT MADE IN THE USA AXLE SHAFTS. I HAVE SOME CUSTOM FAB TO DO ON THE HOUSING AND I'LL BE MOUNTING THIS RTECH INDUSTRIES AXLE TRUSS AS WELL AS SPRING PAD MOUNTS. AND THEN LASTLY I'M GONNA PERFORM A DISC BRAKE CONVERSION. GET RID OF THOSE HEAVY BRAKE DRUMS IN THE 14 BOLT AND CONVERT IT OVER TO DISC WITH THESE EBC BRAKE ROTORS. THE NEW AXLE SHAFTS ARE CUT TO LENGTH USING AN ABRASIVE CUT OFF WHEEL ON A GRINDER. THE DRUMS ARE REMOVED FROM OUR AXLE HUB ASSEMBLIES BY HAMMERING OUT THE WHEEL STUDS. AND THE STUDS THEN CAPTURE THE ROTOR ONTO THE HUB ASSEMBLY. THEN THE AXLE IS COMPLETELY REASSEMBLED.

FOR THE FAB WORK THE FIRST STEP IS TO BOLT THE RTECH PINION GUARD INTO PLACE. THIS HELPS LOCATE THE POSITION OF THE TRUSS ON THE AXLE HOUSING. THEN THE AXLE IS SLID UNDERNEATH THE JEEP'S FRAME TO LOCATE THE POSITION OF THE LEAF SPRING PERCHES.

ONE OF THE UNIQUE FEATURES OF THIS RTECH TRUSS AND LEAF SPRING PADS ARE THE ACTUAL LEAF SPRING PADS THEMSELVES. IT USES THIS LOWER MOUNT THAT WE'LL WELD ONTO THE AXLE TUBE AND THEN THIS UPPER CAPTURE PLATE THAT WE'LL BOLT TOGETHER WITH SOME GRADE EIGHT HARDWARE. THAT MEANS THAT THERE'S NOT GONNA BE ANY UBOLTS UNDERNEATH THE AXLE TUBE THAT COULD POSSIBLY GET

HUNG UP ON TRAIL OBSTACLES WHEN WE'RE OUT WHEELING. NOW I'M JUST MOCKING EVERYTHING INTO PLACE BECAUSE I DON'T KNOW WHAT MY FINAL PINION ANGLE IS

GONNA BE UNTIL I GET THE TRANSFER CASE BOLTED UP BEHIND THE TRANSMISSION. BUT RIGHT NOW THE REAR AXLE IS ALL DONE, IT'S TIME TO WORK ON THE FRONT.

THE FRONT AXLE WILL BE FINISHED OUT BY REUSING SOME OF THE STOCK COMPONENTS AND

ADDING A COUPLE OF AFTERMARKET UPGRADES.

I'M GONNA KEEP THE STOCK OUTER KNUCKLE ASSEMBLIES OFF THE DANA 60.

BUT WHEN YOU HAVE AN AXLE TORN DOWN THIS FAR, IT'S JUST A GOOD IDEA TO REPLACE ANY WEAR ITEMS IN THE SYSTEM. SO I GOT FOUR NEW BALL JOINTS FROM ROCK AUTO DOT COM. NOW THE DANA 60 IN THE SUPER DUTIES PREVIOUS TO 2005 HAVE A WEAK LINK IN THE SYSTEM, AND IT'S IN THE AXLE SHAFT. THE INNER SHAFT IS A BIG, BEEFY 35 SPLINE UNIT. WE HAVE A NICE, LARGE UJOINT, BUT THE OUTER STUB IS THIS TINY LITTLE 30 SPLINE UNIT. IT'S VERY PRONE TO FAILURE WHEN YOU PUT IT IN A SEVERE DUTY APPLICATION LIKE HARDCORE OFF ROADING. SO I GOT AN AXLE UPGRADE KIT FOR THE SUPER DUTY FROM RCV PERFORMANCE. IT'LL REPLACE BOTH THE INNER AND OUTER AXLE STUB ASSEMBLY, AND CONVERTS IT OVER FROM A UJOINT TO THIS C/V, OR CONSTANT VELOCITY, STYLE JOINT. NOW THIS JOINT HAS SIX BALLS INSIDE OF IT, GIVING US SIX POINTS OF CONTACT. IT JUST BASICALLY SMOOTHES OUT THE AXLE OPERATION AS YOU TURN THE WHEELS.

BY HAVING THOSE SIX POINTS OF CONTACT THERE'S LESS BINDING IN THE SYSTEM, AND THAT WILL PREVENT ANY AXLE BREAKAGE, EVEN WHEN THE AXLES ARE TURNED ALL THE WAY AND YOU'RE ON THE THROTTLE. PLUS RCV OFFERS A NO QUESTIONS ASKED, YOU BREAK THEY'LL REPLACE IT WARRANTY. NOW YOU DO NEED TO MACHINE THE UNIT BEARINGS TO ACCEPT THIS LARGER OUTER STUB.

SO I PICKED UP A SET OF FACTORY REPLACEMENT UNIT BEARINGS ALSO FROM ROCK AUTO DOT COM. TOOK THEM DOWN TO MY LOCAL MACHINE SHOP, AND HAD THEM BROACH OUT THE INSIDE OF THE BEARING TO ACCEPT THE LARGER STUB. AND YOU MAY NOTICE THAT I HAD THE WHEEL BEARING RECENTERED FOR DIFFERENT BOLT PATTERN FOR THE WHEELS. NOW THAT'S BECAUSE OUR REAR AXLE IS AN EIGHT ON SIX AND A HALF INCH BOLT PATTERN. THE FORD IS A METRIC BOLT PATTERN FROM THE FACTORY. IT'S EIGHT ON 170 MILLIMETERS.

SO INSTEAD OF HAVING DIFFERENT WHEELS BOTH FRONT AND REAR, I JUST TOOK A LITTLE BIT OF MONEY AND HAD THEM CHANGE THIS BEARING OVER TO THE EIGHT ON SIX AND A HALF, THAT WAY IT'S THE SAME ALL THE WAY AROUND. THE SNAP RINGS ON BOTH BALL JOINTS ARE REMOVED AND THE BALL JOINTS ARE HAMMERED OUT OF THE FACTORY KNUCKLES. THERE IS A SEAL LIP ON THE INSIDE OF THE KNUCKLE THAT NEEDS TO BE GROUND DOWN USING A DIE GRINDER IN ORDER FOR THE RCV STUB SHAFT TO FIT.

THEN THE NEW BALL JOINTS ARE INSTALLED AND THE KNUCKLE IS BOLTED ONTO THE AXLE. THE RCV ORANGE DOME IS PLACED INSIDE THE KNUCKLE AND THE NEW AXLE SHAFT AND C/V JOINT ARE ASSEMBLED AND SLID INTO THE FRONT AXLE HOUSING. UNIT BEARING IS THEN BOLTED UP AND THE RCV DRIVE FLANGE KIT IS INSTALLED.

TO FINISH THINGS OFF A TMR CUSTOMS HEAVY DUTY FABRICATED DIFF COVER TO PROTECT EVERYTHING INSIDE.

(ANNOUNCER)>> UP NEXT, A RANGE BOX WITH SERIOUS PULLING POWER. AND THE ONE, THE ONLY ORIGINAL MONSTER TRUCK!

(IAN)>> WITH BOTH THE AXLES COMPLETELY REBUILT AND SITTING UNDERNEATH OUR FRAME THE NEXT STEP WOULD BE TO WELD IN THE REAR SPRING PERCHES AND TRUSS TO SET THAT REAR PINION ANGLE, BUT I CAN'T DO THAT YET BECAUSE I DON'T HAVE A TRANSFER CASE BOLTED UP BEHIND OUR TRANSMISSION. NOW WHEN IT COMES TO THE TRANSFER CASE FOR THIS PARTICULAR RIG, I WANTED SOMETHING A LITTLE BIT OLD SCHOOL BUT I DIDN'T WANT TO GIVE UP

ANY NEW TECHNOLOGY. AND I FOUND THE PERFECT PIECE. FROM THE FACTORY THE 715 HAS A NEW PROCESS 200 SERIES CASE. NOW IT'S A DIVORCED CASE, IT'S ALL CAST IRON, ALL GEAR CONSTRUCTION. IT'S A GOOD STRONG CASE BUT IT'S NOT GONNA WORK WITH THE DRIVETRAIN WE SWAPPED INTO THIS RIG. I'M GONNA CHANGE IT OUT TO THIS. THIS IS A NEW PROCESS 205 SERIES CASE. NOW THIS ONE WAS REBUILT BY THE GUYS AT OFF ROAD DESIGN. ALL FRESHENED UP, NEW BEARINGS, SEALS INSIDE, AND THEY INSTALLED ONE OF THEIR TWIN STICK ASSEMBLIES IN IT. THAT WILL ALLOW ME TO OPERATE THE LOW RANGE RATIO INDEPENDENT OF THE FRONT OUTPUT. NOW THIS IS A FORD SERIES 205, SO IT'S A DRIVER'S SIDE DROP THAT'LL MATCH UP WITH OUR FRONT AXLE SHAFT

AND IT'S GOT 32 SPLINE OUTPUTS BOTH FRONT AND REAR. NOW THE 205 WAS NEVER OFFERED BEHIND THE MODERN DODGE AUTOMATIC THAT'S SITTING BEHIND OUR HEMI. SO WE NEED TO ADAPT THE 205, BUT OFF ROAD DESIGN DOES SOMETHING A LITTLE BIT DIFFERENT. THIS IS THEIR MAGNUM RANGE BOX. IT BASICALLY BOLTS ON TO THE FRONT OF THE 205 AND CONVERTS IT TO THE POPULAR SIX BOLT ROUND FLANGE THAT YOU FIND BEHIND MOST FOUR WHEEL DRIVE TRANSMISSIONS. BUT THE COOL THING IS IT DOESN'T JUST ADAPT IT. THERE'S ALSO A PLANETARY GEAR SET IN HERE. WE'VE BASICALLY TAKEN THE 205, CHANGED IT FROM A TWO SPEED CASE OVER TO A FOUR SPEED CASE.

I HAVE A ONE TO ONE HIGH RANGE RATIO, A TWO TO ONE LOW IN THE CASE, A TWO POINT SEVEN TWO TO ONE LOW IN THE PLANETARY SET, AND A FIVE POINT FOURFOUR TO ONE IF I COMBINE THE TWO. THAT IS GREAT FOR SOME SLOW SPEED CRAWLING. NOW BEFORE THIS CASE CAN GO IN, THE OLD CASE HAS GOT TO COME OUT.

WITH THE ORD MAGNUM ATTACHED TO THE BACK OF THE DODGE AUTOMATIC, A NEW CROSS MEMBER WILL NEED TO BE BUILD. I AM USING SOME TWO INCH BY TWO INCH QUARTER WALL SQUARE TUBING BECAUSE I NEED TO CLEARANCE IT AROUND THE FRONT OUTPUT AND THAT'S EASIER TO DO WITH SOME SQUARE STOCK. MOUNTS ARE ASSEMBLED USING POLY BUSHINGS AND SOME TABS FROM RTECH INDUSTRIES.

THE 205 IS HEAVY TRANSFER CASE. SO TO HELP DISTRIBUTE THE WEIGHT A TRANSFER CASE SUPPORT FROM TMR CUSTOMS IS ATTACHED TO THE BACK OF THE CASE. NOW I CAN TEAR IT DOWN, FINISH WELD EVERYTHING, AND GIVE IT A COAT OF PAINT.

(ANNOUNCER)>> WHEN IT COMES TO MONSTER TRUCKS, THIS ONE'S A TRUE LEGEND, AND TODAY IT'S IN OUR SHOP!

(IAN)>> WHEN MANY PEOPLE THINK OF MONSTER TRUCKS, THE FIRST NAME THAT COMES TO MIND IS BIG FOOT AND FOR GOOD REASON. FOR THE PAST 40 YEARS BOB CHANDLER'S CREATIONS HAVE THRILLED FANS WORLD WIDE, FROM CRUSHING CARS TO A 2014 FOOT LONG JUMP THAT HOLDS THE GUINNESS WORLD RECORD. THE BIG FOOT TRUCKS, THEY'VE DONE IT ALL. THIS IS BIG FOOT ONE, YES, THE VERY FIRST MONSTER TRUCK. THE TRUCK THAT STARTED THE WORLD WIDE CRAZE OF JACKING PICK UP TRUCKS UP TO THE SKY, PUTTING MONSTER TIRES ON THEM, AND CRUSHING CARS FOR FUN. NOW IT'S HERE AT THE POWERNATION TECH CENTER GETTING SOME WORK DONE TO IT, AND I'M GONNA TAKE A LOOK AT A VERY KEY COMPONENT ON THIS RIG. SEE YOU WOULD THINK THAT WITH A 10,000 POUND TRUCK

AND 66 INCH TALL TIRES IT WOULD BE HARD TO STOP THIS TRUCK BUT IT'S NOT BECAUSE OF A VERY SPECIFIC BRAKE. THE ORIGINAL BIG FOOT IS BUILT USING ROCKWELL FIVE TON TOP LOADER AXLE ASSEMBLIES. NOW THESE AXLE ASSEMBLIES FROM THE FACTORY WERE USED IN BIG MILITARY TRUCKS, AND THEY HAVE DRUMS AT EITHER SIDE OF THE AXLE. NOW WHEN BIG FOOT WAS ORIGINALLY BUILT, THE GUYS USED THOSE DRUM BRAKES ON THE TRUCK. THE PROBLEM IS THOSE DRUMS WOULD HOLD IN THE HEAT. THEY'D GET HOT, YOU'D HAVE BRAKE FADE, NOT WHAT YOU WANT IN A MONSTER TRUCK WHEN YOU'RE DONE CRUSHING SOME CARS. SO THE CURRENT BIG FOOT DITCHED THE DRUMS AND WENT WITH A PINION BRAKE SETUP. NOW THIS IS ABLE TO STOP THE TRUCK VERY EASILY. AND I'M SURE SOME OF YOU GUYS ARE WONDERING WHY

WOULD A SINGLE ROTOR AND ONE CALIPER STOP A TRUCK THIS BIG BETTER THAN GIANT DRUM BRAKES? WELL IT'S BECAUSE WE'RE ACTUALLY BRAKING THE

DRIVETRAIN, NOT THE TIRE AND WHEEL. SEE JUST LIKE THE ENGINE USES THE SEVEN TO ONE GEAR RATIO INSIDE THIS AXLE TO MULTIPLY THE ENGINE'S TORQUE AND GET THE TRUCK GOING, IF WE APPLY A BRAKE TO THAT SAME PINION WE CAN USE THAT SEVEN TO ONE RATIO TO STOP THE TRUCK. BASICALLY WE HAVE SEVEN TIMES MORE BRAKING POWER WITH THIS CALIPER AND ROTOR THAN WE WOULD IF IT WAS ATTACHED TO THE WHEEL. NOW HERE ON THIS TRUCK I NOTICE THAT THIS ONE'S LOOKING A LITTLE BIT RUSTY, AND OBVIOUSLY THIS

CALIPER'S BEEN ON HERE FOR A LONG TIME. SO I'M GONNA REBUILD IT. TO FRESHEN UP THE BRAKE SYSTEM THE FIRST STEP IS TO REMOVE THE ROTOR GUARD. THE CALIPER MOUNTING BRACKET IS THEN UNBOLTED FROM THE AXLE.

THE ROTOR IS DRESSED WITH A DUAL ACTION SANDER TO PROVIDE A GOOD BRAKING SURFACE FOR THE NEW PADS.

AND SINCE WE'RE UNSURE OF THE CONDITION OF THE CALIPERS ON BIG FOOT, I PICKED UP A COUPLE REPLACEMENTS FROM OUR LOCAL AUTOZONE STORE. AND AFTER A GOOD COAT OF CALIPER PAINT, WE'LL BOLT

THEM BACK UP TO THE CALIPER BRACKET. AND BOLT THE CALIPER BRACKET BACK ONTO THE AXLE.

SOME EBC YELLOW STUFF PADS ARE THEN DROPPED INTO PLACE AND THIS BRAKE UPGRADE IS DONE. NOW ALL I HAVE TO DO IS REPEAT THIS PROCEDURE ON THE BACK OF THE TRUCK. THEN I CAN BLEED THE SYSTEM AND THEN REINSTALL

THE ROTOR GUARDS. I CAN'T GET TO THE BLEEDER SCREWS ON THE CALIPER WITH THE ROTOR GUARDS IN PLACE. AND THEN BIG FOOT WILL HAVE NEW BRAKES FRONT AND REAR.

AND IT'S A GOOD THING THAT WE WENT AHEAD AND CHECKED THEM. WHEN WE PULLED THE PADS OFF OF THE ORIGINAL CALIPER, YOU CAN SEE THAT THE FRICTION MATERIAL IS ACTUALLY STARTING TO PULL AWAY FROM THE BACKER. THAT'S A VERY COMMON PROBLEM WITH THESE RIVETED PADS. WATER GETS BEHIND THEM AND IT RUSTS AWAY. SO IF YOU'RE INSPECTING THE BRAKES ON YOUR CAR AT HOME AND YOU SEE THE FRICTION MATERIAL STARTING TO PULL AWAY FROM THE BACKER, WELL IT'S TIME FOR NEW PADS, JUST LIKE BIG FOOT JUST GOT.