Sleeving a 396 Big Block for a 1970 Camaro

(ANNOUNCER)>> TODAY ON MUSCLE CAR IT'S HANGING SUSPENSION, PEDAL CONVERSION, HEATER BOX SWAPPING, RADIATOR SUPPORT FIXES, AND EVERYTHING YOU EVER WANTED TO KNOW ABOUT FLUID LINES. OUR COPO CAMARO GETS TO STAND TALL ON ITS BRAND NEW LEGS AS THE GUYS MARRY UP THE REWORKED SUBFRAME AND MODIFIED

REAR END TO THE PROJECT. FIND OUT HOW EASY IT CAN BE TO DO THIS AT HOME WITH A BUDDY.

THEN WE COVER A MYRIAD OF ODDS AND ENDS FROM METAL WORK TO PEDAL WORK.

(TOMMY)>> HEY FOLKS, TODAY'S GONNA BE A GOOD DAY BECAUSE WE'VE GOT A SET OF REJUVENATED LEGS TO PUT BACK UNDER OUR 1969 COPO CAMARO TRIBUTE CAR, AND WE'RE GONNA CONVERT THIS SMALL BLOCK HEATER BOX AND AUTOMATIC PEDALS OVER TO THE BIG BLOCK SETUP, AND WE'RE GONNA ADD THAT EXTRA PEDAL SO WE CAN SNATCH ON THAT FOUR SPEED.

(STEVE)>> THOSE LEGS THAT TOMMY WAS TALKING ABOUT ARE RIGHT HERE. THIS IS THE 12 BOLT REAR AXLE THAT HE REBUILT LAST TIME. IT CAME OUT OF A LATE '60'S CHEVY IMPALA AND TOMMY CUT IT DOWN TO MEET THE SPECS OF OUR PONY CAR. THIS IS THE ORIGINAL SUBFRAME THAT CAME OUT OF THE CAR THAT WE SENT TO OUR FRIENDS UP IN LEBANON, TENNESSEE, BLAST FROM THE PAST. WHEN WE GOT IT BACK AND GOT IT PAINTED, WE PUT A LOT OF THE ORIGINAL COMPONENTS BACK ON IT AND UPGRADED WITH A FEW THAT THE ORIGINAL COPO'S WOULD HAVE CAME WITH.

(TOMMY)>> YOU MAY HAVE NOTICED FROM THE LAST TIME THAT YOU'VE SEEN OUR OLD GIRL THAT THE BELLY AND THE FIREWALL'S BEEN CLEANED UP AND PAINTED. IT'S NOT GONNA BE TOO MUCH LONGER AND THE REST OF THE BODY IS GONNA BE READY FOR SOME PAINT ALSO. BUT THERE'S STILL A LITTLE BIT OF MILD BODY WORK THAT HAS TO BE DONE. SO I'M GONNA BE HANGING OUT HERE FOR A WHILE TODAY WITH JASON ANDERSON FROM ANDERSON CLASSIC AND CUSTOMS FROM CLAREMORE, OKLAHOMA. WE'RE GONNA BE WORKING ON THE DOORS, FENDERS, HOOD, ALL KINDS OF PIECES GETTING IT READY TO PAINT. MISTER JASON, WHY DON'T YOU SAY HELLO?

(JASON)>> HI MOM, HOW'S IT GOING?

(STEVE)>> SO WHILE THOSE GUYS ARE DOING THAT, SINCE I'VE ADMITTED TO YOU I CANNOT DO BODY WORK, I GUESS I'LL PUT ALL OF THIS BACK IN THE CAR. I'VE GOT THE SUBFRAME IN A STARTING TO POSITION TO PUT IT BACK UNDERNEATH THE BODY OF THE CAR. NOW OBVIOUSLY HERE AT THE SHOP WE HAVE THE ADVANTAGE OF HAVING THE LIFT, BUT YOU GUYS CAN DO THIS JOB AT HOME ON THE FLOOR, PREFERABLY JUST ONE END OR THE OTHER AT A TIME. I'VE DONE THEM IN THE PAST AND WHAT I'VE DONE IS LEFT THE REAR SUSPENSION AND AXLE HANGING AND JUST PUT JACK STANDS UNDER THE FRONT OF THE BODY. AND THAT WAY YOU CAN MOVE THE SUBFRAME CAUSE IT'S NOT THAT HEAVY, ESPECIALLY IF YOU HAVE A HELPER, IN AND OUT OF THE CAR AND DO IT ON THE FLOOR SAFELY.

(TOMMY)>> WE TALKED TO CLASSIC INDUSTRIES TO GET OUR HANDS ON SOME BLACK URETHANE BUSHINGS. THE BEAUTY OF THESE THINGS IS THAT THEY GIVE US THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS, THE APPEARANCE OF THE CLASSIC STYLE RUBBER BUSHING AND THE PERFORMANCE OF URETHANE. JUST FOUR BOLTS AND WE CAN MOVE TO THE REAR.

(STEVE)>> THE FIRST THING WE'RE GONNA DO TO GET THE REAR SUSPENSION STARTED IS TO WRESTLE THESE SPRING POCKETS UP INTO THE BODY OF THE CAR.

(TOMMY)>> INSTALLING YOUR SPRINGS FIRST MEANS THAT YOU CAN WRESTLE THEM IN PLACE WITHOUT HAVING TO USE A JACK, LIKE YOU WOULD HAVE TO DO IF THEY WE'RE BOLTED TO THE REAR END HOUSING.

IT ALSO MEANS THAT THE REAR END IS LIGHT ENOUGH THAT YOU AND A BUDDY CAN PICK IT UP AND PLUG IT INTO PLACE FAIRLY EASILY.

WE'RE USING A MULTILEAF HARDWARE KIT THAT WE GOT FROM

CLASSIC INDUSTRIES, WHICH INCLUDES THE UBOLTS AND OTHER HARDWARE TO MOUNT THIS THING UP, ALONG WITH THE RUBBER ISOLATORS FOR THE LEAF SPRINGS AND SHACKLES.

(STEVE)>> NOW THAT WE'VE GOT THE SUSPENSION AND THE REAR HOUSING IN THE CAR, WE'RE GONNA GO AHEAD AND PUT ON THE BACKING PLATES AND INSTALL THE AXLES.

(TOMMY)>> WE'LL DO THE BRAKES LATER ON, BUT FOR NOW WE'LL THROW ON THE DRUMS TO SEE WHAT IT LOOKS LIKE.

(ANNOUNCER)>> STILL AHEAD, SWAPPING FROM TWO PEDALS TO THREE, AS WELL AS TWO WAYS TO CONVERT FOR A BIG BLOCK STYLE HEATER BOX. THEN WE IRON OUT A WARPED RADIATOR SUPPORT AND LEARN ALL ABOUT BRAKE LINES.

(TOMMY)>> HEY GUYS, WE'RE PLUGGING ALONG WITH THE BODY WORK ON OUR OLE COPO PROJECT, AND I'M GETTING TO SPEND SOME QUALITY TIME WITH THAT GUY, JASON ANDERSON WITH ANDERSON CLASSICS AND CUSTOMS OUT OF CLAREMORE, OKLAHOMA. NOW WE'VE GOT PLENTY TO DO HERE. SO YOU BOYS RUN OFF AND SEE WHAT MANK'S GOT TO SHOW YOU.

(STEVE)>> OUR '69 CAMARO ORIGINALLY CAME WITH A POWERGLIDE TWO SPEED AUTOMATIC. IF YOU REMEMBER, WE'RE GONNA SWITCH IT OVER TO A MUNCIE FOUR SPEED. IN ORDER TO DO THAT WE'VE GOT THESE PEDALS THAT WE GOT FROM CLASSIC INDUSTRIES TO HELP US DO THE JOB. IN ORDER TO GET THESE PEDALS UP UNDERNEATH THE DASH WHERE I NEED THEM, WHAT I'M GONNA DO IS MAKE THE JOB A LITTLE EASIER ON MYSELF. SINCE WE HAVE TO REPLACE THE GAUGES AND INSTRUMENT CLUSTER

ANYWAY, I'M GONNA DROP THE COLUMN, PULL THAT WHOLE CLUSTER OUT, AND IT'LL MAKE IT REAL EASY FOR US TO GET THE PEDALS UP IN THERE AND GET CLOSE TO THE FIREWALL.

(TOMMY)>> WHEN IT COMES TO REMOVING PARTS LIKE THE DASH AND COLUMN ON A BUILD LIKE THIS, MAKE SURE THAT YOU TAKE GOOD CARE OF THE WIRING AS YOU WORK. IF YOU TREAT IT RIGHT, BEING ABLE TO PLUG IT ALL BACK IN AND MOVE ON WILL SAVE YOU SO MUCH WORK. YES, I KNOW IT CAN BE TEDIOUS, BUT WORKING A LITTLE HARDER EARLY ON TO SAVE WAY MORE EFFORT LATER IS ALWAYS A GOOD STRATEGY.

THE PEDALS THEMSELVES ARE HELD IN PLACE BY A CLIP ON THE RIGHT EDGE. ONCE YOU'VE GOT THE CLIP OFF, THE SHAFT THAT HOLDS THEM IN CAN SLIDE OUT TO THE LEFT. THEN YOU'VE ELIMINATED THE SINGLE BRAKE PEDAL FROM YOUR CAR. REALIGNING THE SHAFT ON THE REPLACEMENT PEDALS CAN BE A LITTLE BIT TRICKY.

MANK IS STAGING UP THE SHAFT, WHICH IS CONNECTED TO THE CLUTCH PEDAL. THEN HE'LL USE IT TO TRY TO LINE UP THE BRAKE PEDAL INTO PLACE. WITH A LITTLE GENERAL PERSUASION, THE

SHAFT FINDS ITS HOME. THEN WE CAN PUT OUR NEW CLIP ON, WHICH WILL HOLD EVERYTHING TOGETHER NICELY.

(STEVE)>> HERE WE GO! WELL NOW THAT WE'VE GOT OUR THREE PEDALS HUNG, WHICH IS REQUIRED FOR OUR MUNCIE FOUR SPEED, THERE'S SOMETHING ELSE WE CAN TAKE CARE OF WHILE WE'VE GOT THE DASH APART, THIS HEATER BOX. THE FIRST THING WE HAVE TO TALK ABOUT THAT'S GOING TO BE A DIFFERENT.

THIS IS THE STOCK HEATER CORE THAT CAME OUT OF THE SMALL BLOCK CAR WHERE THE INLET AND OUTLET ARE ALL THE WAY TOWARDS THE CENTER OF THE FIREWALL. THE ONE THAT WE NEED FOR A BIG BLOCK BECAUSE OF THE ACTUAL PHYSICAL SIZE OF THE MOTOR THE TUBES HAVE BEEN MOVED ALL THE WAY OVER TO THE PASSENGER SIDE IN ORDER TO FIT AROUND THE VALVE COVER. THERE'S A COUPLE OF DIFFERENT WAYS TO ACCOMMODATE THE CHANGE

THE WE WANT TO MAKE FOR OUR HEATER CORES FROM SMALL

BLOCK TO BIG BLOCK. IF YOU WANT TO RETAIN THE STOCK SMALL BLOCK HEATER BOX, THE FIRST THING YOU CAN DO IS BUY ONE OF THESE SEAL RETAINERS. YOU CAN MAKE THE NECESSARY CUTS WITH A HOLE SAW TO PASS THE TUBES THROUGH HERE AND HERE AND YOU

SHOULD BE GOOD TO GO. NOW THAT SHOULD MAKE IT OPERATE JUST FINE AND DANDY. WITH OUR COPO CAR WE WANT TO MAINTAIN A CERTAIN

CALIBER OF QUALITY. SO A MANUFACTURED PIECE WILL WORK JUST A LITTLE BETTER. SO WE GOT THIS HEATER BOX FROM CLASSIC INDUSTRIES. IT'S ALREADY BEEN PREPPED WITH THE HOLES NEEDED FOR THE BIG BLOCK HEATER CORE. IT'S PRETTY INEXPENSIVE AND GOOD WAY TO GO.

(TOMMY)>> THE BEAUTY OF DOING IT LIKE THIS IS THAT EVERYTHING IS MADE TO FIT WHERE IT SITS, AND SHOULD PLUG ALL RIGHT INTO PLACE WITHOUT PUTTING UP MUCH OF A FIGHT.

(ANNOUNCER)>> COMING UP, SEE HOW YOU CAN USE COMMON HOUSEHOLD TOOLS TO REPAIR A WRINKLY RADIATOR SUPPORT. AND THEN FIND OUT JUST WHAT THOSE RED AND BLUE FLUID FITTINGS ARE REALLY ALL ABOUT.

(STEVE)>> OKAY GUYS, WE'RE BACK. WE'VE GOT MOST OF THE MODIFICATION AND CHANGES WE

NEEDED TO DO TO THE FIREWALL FINISHED, BUT WE'VE GOT TO

CONTINUE UNDERNEATH THE HOOD SO WE CAN GET OUR MOTOR IN. WE FOUND OUT WE HAD A COUPLE OF ISSUES WITH OUR CORE SUPPORT. SO AS LONG AS WE'VE GOT JASON ANDERSON STILL HERE FROM ANDERSON CLASSICS, WE'RE GONNA GO AHEAD AND TAKE ADVANTAGE OF HIM AND GET HIM TO FIX IT UP FOR US. AND BY THE WAY, DID YOU LEAVE TOMMY OUT THERE DOING ALL THE BODY WORK BY HIMSELF.

(JASON)>> SURE DID!

(STEVE)>> SO JASON, WHAT DO YOU THINK HAPPENED TO THIS THING?

(JASON)>> LOOKS LIKE SOMEBODY BO DUKE'D IT OVER A RIVER AT SOME TIME OR ANOTHER.

(STEVE)>> WELL YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE DOING AND I'VE GOT MORE THAN ENOUGH TO DO.

SO I'M GONNA LEAVE YOU TO IT.

(JASON)>> ALRIGHT, I'VE GOT THIS MANK, DO SOMETHING. SO WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO HERE TODAY IS WE'RE GONNA TRY TO FIX THE BOTTOM OF THIS RADIATOR SUPPORT WITH YOUR NORMAL HOUSEHOLD TOOLS YOU MAY HAVE LAYING AROUND YOUR HOUSE. USUALLY IN A BODY SHOP YOU USE SOMETHING LIKE THIS, A STEEL DOLLY, BUT ANYBODY CAN FIND A PIECE OF STEEL OR SOMETHING LIKE THAT THAT YOU CAN GRAB OUT OF YOUR GARAGE, SHED, SOMETHING LIKE THAT. AND THEN YOU CAN ALSO USE THAT AS YOUR DOLLY FOR YOUR EDGES AND TO HIT AGAINST. THIS LIP IS BENT ALL UP ON THIS. IT'S SUPPOSED TO LOOK SIMILAR TO THIS, AND OBVIOUSLY IT DOESN'T.

SO WE'RE GOING TO FORM THIS STEEL SO THAT IT IS ACTUALLY BACK INTO THE ORIGINAL SHAPE AS WHAT WE'RE GONNA ATTEMPT TO DO HERE.

(TOMMY)>> THIS BIG OLE BALL PEEN HAMMER MAY LOOK A LITTLE BIT LIKE OVERKILL, BUT A RADIATOR SUPPORT IS MADE OUT OF SOME PRETTY STERN STUFF. AND IF YOU'RE USING A LEGITIMATE BODY HAMMER, YOU MIGHT END UP BRAKING THE HANDLE OUT OF IT. THESE TOOLS CAN BE PERFECTLY FINE FOR SOMETHING LIKE THIS

RADIATOR SUPPORT, BUT OF COURSE IF YOU'RE LOOKING AT DOING SOME ACTUAL BODY WORK YOU MIGHT THINK ABOUT GETTING SOME ACTUAL BODY WORKING TOOLS. LOCKING PLIERS ARE GONNA HELP STRAIGHTEN OUT AROUND THE FACTORY CRIMP WHILE MAINTAINING THE BENDS THAT ARE SUPPOSED TO REMAIN INTACT. A LITTLE MORE HAMMERING AND FINESSE WITH SOME PATIENCE THROWN IN FOR GOOD MEASURE, AND YOU'VE GOT YOURSELF A REPAIRED PANEL.

(JASON)>> THAT MY FRIENDS IS HOW YOU DO IT. OKAY, SO IT TOOK ME ABOUT 15 MINUTES TO STRAIGHTEN OUT THE BOTTOM EDGE OF THIS RADIATOR SUPPORT HERE. SO NOW WE FOUND A FEW ISSUES ON THE TOP SIDE OF THIS RADIATOR SUPPORT PEDESTAL. SO WE'RE GONNA FLIP THIS THING OVER AND START DOING SOME FILLER WORK TO GET IT MORE APPEALING TO THE EYE WHEN

YOU LOOK IN THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. THESE ARE PRONE TO HOLD MOISTURE. SO THEY ROT OUT UNDERNEATH THOSE BUSHINGS PRETTY GOOD. WHAT WE'RE GONNA DO IS PUT A METAL FILLER IN THERE. WE'RE GONNA USE THAT FIRST BECAUSE IT IS A LITTLE STOUTER FILLER THAN JUST A PLASTIC FILLER.

(TOMMY)>> ONE GREAT THING ABOUT METAL REINFORCED FILLER IS UNLIKE SOME OF THE OTHER PLASTIC FILLERS, IS IT'S WATERPROOF, WHICH HELPS IT CUT DOWN ON CORROSION IN THOSE TROUBLE SPOTS. THE NEXT STEP IS TO SAND IT DOWN AND SMOOTH IT ALL OUT.

(JASON)>> AND THEN WE'LL FINISH OUT THE REST OF THE PIN HOLES WITH A PLASTIC FILLER.

(TOMMY)>> IN HARD TO SAND SPOTS LIKE THIS. SOMETIMES YOU CAN GAIN SOME GROUND WITH THE USE OF A POWER SANDING, BUT YOU JUST HAVE TO BE CAREFUL WHEN YOU SWAP OVER TO POWER TOOLS LIKE THIS BECAUSE THEY WILL REMOVE MATERIAL A HECK OF A LOT FASTER THAN MANUAL SANDING WILL. THE LOWER PORTION OF THE SUPPORT IS A LITTLE WRINKLY AS WELL. SO A QUICK WIPE WITH SOME FILLER AND A ROUND OF SANDING WILL WHIP IT RIGHT INTO SHAPE AS WELL.

AND THAT SHOULD JUST ABOUT WRAP IT UP.

(STEVE)>> ALRIGHT JASON, I FINISHED UP, FIGURED I'D COME AND CHECK ON YOU.

WHOA, YOU'RE THERE!

(JASON)>> YEP, IT'S GOOD TO GO.

READY TO PRIME IT, SOME SATIN BLACK AND IT'LL BE READY TO PUT IN THE CAR.

(STEVE)>> A BETTER JOB THAN I WOULD HAVE DONE. I'M GLAD YOU WERE HERE DUDE.

(JASON)>> NO PROBLEM!

(ANNOUNCER)>> DID YOU EVER HAVE A LEAKY BRAKE FITTING THAT YOU COULDN'T FIGURE OUT? WELL WE MIGHT JUST HAVE THE ANSWER FOR YOUR PROBLEM.

(STEVE)>> HEY GUYS, IT'S TIME TO SLOW DOWN JUST A LITTLE BIT AND TALK ABOUT SOME TECH AND AUTOMOTIVE RESTORATION AND/OR REPAIR. THE TOPIC OF CHOICE TODAY IS GONNA BE FLUID LINES, WHICH TAKE YOUR VEHICLE'S LIQUIDS FROM POINTA TO POINTB. FOR EXAMPLE, BRAKE LINES. THERE'S THE STEEL LINES THAT RUN ALONG THE CHASSIS, AND

THEN THERE'S THE RUBBER LINES THAT GO FROM THE CHASSIS OUT TO THE SUSPENSION AND STEERING COMPONENTS. NOW THIS IS AN OEM STYLE RUBBER LINE, WHICH IS FINE FOR MOST APPLICATIONS. BUT BEING JUST RUBBER, IT'S SUSCEPTIBLE TO ROAD HAZARDS, HEAT, OIL, AND A MYRIAD OF OTHER ISSUES THAT CAN COME AT IT. YOU CAN PROTECT YOURSELF AGAINST BRAKE FAILURE DUE TO RUBBER LINE FATIGUE BY OPTING FOR A SET OF BRAIDED STAINLESS STEEL LINES LIKE THESE ONES FROM CROWN PERFORMANCE. THESE DOT APPROVED LINES FEATURE A TEFLON INNER CORE AND A LAYER OF BRAIDED KEVLAR SURROUNDED BY A BARRIER LAYER.

WHERE AS RUBBER LINE WILL EXPAND TO A CERTAIN DEGREE, WHICH SOFTENS YOUR BRAKE PEDAL UP, THESE ARE RESISTANT TO VOLUMETRIC EXPANSION, MEANING YOU'LL HAVE A HARD BRAKE PEDAL. AND SINCE THOSE LINES ARE SO TOUGH, YOU WON'T HAVE TO WORRY ABOUT SOME OF THE ISSUES WITH MOTHER NATURE LIKE YOU DO WITH THE OEM STYLE RUBBER LINES. CROWN WILL MAKE THEM TO FIT MOST APPLICATIONS, FIT THEM WITH ANY FITTINGS, AND IF YOU'RE DOING A CUSTOM APPLICATION, THEY'RE ALSO AVAILABLE IN NINE DIFFERENT COLORS. NOW THAT GETS YOU FROM THE WHEELS TO THE CHASSIS, BUT THE HARD LINES MAKE UP THE REST OF THE PATH TO THE MASTER CYLINDER. 95 PERCENT OF THE VEHICLES ON THE ROAD TODAY EMPLOY SOMETHING LIKE THIS, A TYPICAL STEEL BRAKE LINE THAT HAS BEEN BENT TO FIT THE SPECIFIC APPLICATION IT'S USED ON. THE OEM STYLE STEEL LINES REALLY DON'T HAVE ANY MAJOR ISSUES OTHER THAN MAYBE JUST ONE, AGING ITSELF. AND THIS IS THE RESULT OF JUST THAT. IT WILL CORRODE ON THE OUTSIDE AND ALSO ON THE INSIDE BECAUSE

OF LIQUID INSIDE THE TUBE. I WANT TO SHOW YOU GUYS ONE MORE OPTION OTHER THAN JUST

THE MILD STEEL LINES WE HAD EARLIER. IT'S STAINLESS STEEL LIKE THESE LIENS WE GOT FROM STAINLESS STEEL BRAKE COMPANY. NOW THESE LINES ARE CORROSION RESISTANT BUT THEY'RE ALSO A LITTLE HARDER THAN THE MILD STEEL LINES WE TALKED ABOUT EARLIER. THAT MEANS YOU'LL NEED A LITTLE EXTRA UMPH TO FLARE THEM OR BEND THEM TO WHERE YOU NEED THEM TO BE ON THE CHASSIS, BUT THEY WILL CARRY A LOT MORE LINE PRESSURE. AND THESE WILL LOOK GOOD UNDER YOUR STREET ROD, MUSCLE CAR, OR ANY OTHER HIGH END PROJECT YOU MIGHT BE INVOLVED IN. IN ADDITION TO THE TRADITIONAL STEEL OR BRASS FITTINGS, YOU CAN ALSO OPT FOR AN ANODIZED ALUMINUM FITTINGS, COMMONLY CALLED AN. THE AN STANDS FOR ARMYNAVY BECAUSE THE MILITARY ADOPTED THE USE OF THESE STYLE FITTINGS FROM THE AEROSPACE INDUSTRY MANY YEARS AGO.

THE COMMON COLOR COATING OF RED AND BLUE ACTUALLY HAVE MEANING. IN THE MILITARY THE RED PIECES MEAN STATIONARY AND DO NOT TOUCH UNLESS ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY, WHILE THE BLUE PIECES ARE GENERALLY THE REMOVABLE PIECES. THE BASIC DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE AN FITTINGS WE JUST REFERENCED AND THE OEM STYLE STEEL LINE FITTINGS ARE THAT THE FLARES ARE DOUBLED, WHICH MEANS THEY'RE ROLLED OVER ONTO EACH OTHER AND ARE 45 DEGREES. THE PURPOSE OF THE DOUBLE FLARE IS TO REINFORCE IT AND CREATE A GOOD SEAL. ALTHOUGH DOING THE SAME JOB, THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN OEM STYLE STEEL LINES AND AN ARE THESE.

THIS SYSTEM HAS DEVELOPED IT'S OWN ANGLE. INSTEAD OF BEING 45 DEGREE FLARES, THEY'RE 37 TO KEEP THE SYSTEMS FROM GETTING MIXED UP. THEY CAN USE A SINGLE STYLE FLARE BECAUSE THEY USE A SEPARATE FERAL WITH THE NUT TO CRUSH THE TWO TOGETHER TO GET THE SEAL THEY WANT.

(TOMMY)>> NOW MANK'S GONNA SHOW YOU THE PROCESS FOR CREATING ONE OF THESE 37 DEGREE AN STYLE FLARES USING OUR FLARING TOOL. THE DYE ON THE RIGHT HOLDS A BRAKE LINE IN PLACE DURING THE

PROCESS OF FLARING, AND THE ONE YOU USE IS DETERMINED BY THE DIAMETER OF THE LINE. ONCE THE SLACK IS TAKEN OUT, YOU MAKE A FEW SQUEEZES ON THE HANDLE, IT WILL FIN THE LEFT SIDE DYE, WHICH DETERMINES THE FLARE'S SHAPE, INTO THE END OF THE LINE AND CREATE FLARE.

ONCE YOU REMOVE THE DYE FROM THE END OF THE LINE, YOU CAN SLIDE ON YOUR FERAL AND NUT, WHICH WILL MARRY THEM RIGHT UP TO A CORRESPONDING AN FITTING OF THE OPPOSITE GENDER.

(STEVE)>> YOU CAN SEE THE BASIC DIFFERENCES IN THE FLARES BOTH FROM THE FACE AND ALSO FROM THE SIDE. WELL THERE YOU GO. HOPEFULLY I'VE GIVE YOU GUYS ENOUGH BASIC INFORMATION ON THE TWO DIFFERENT STYLES OF FLARING TO GET THE JOB

DONE THAT YOU NEED TO DO. YOU CAN DO IT FROM THE SMALLEST BRAKE LINES ALL THE WAY UP TO BELIEVE IT OR NOT, THE LARGEST RADIATOR HOSES WITH THE ARRAY OF FITTINGS AND HOSES THAT ARE

AVAILABLE TO YOU. IF YOU'VE GOT ANY QUESTIONS ABOUT ANYTHING YOU SAW ON THE SHOW TODAY.

(TOMMY)>> GO OVER TO POWERBLOCK TV DOT COM.