More Camaro Reassemblyand the '69 Boss 302!

This week on muscle car, the panels go on, the steering goes in and the crate Camaros that much closer to somebody's driveway

brake lines, how to hang in the body getting it straight. And our muscle car flashback is a Mustang legend.

Cool.

Hey, everybody. Welcome to muscle car. This is the best part of any project.

Unboxing un creating all that stuff. It's like Christmas, a fat guy shows up at your house with a big red suit

and gives you all this cool stuff and it's all going on that we're back on our crate Camaro. But before you know where we're going,

you gotta know where we've been.

We call it a crate Camaro because it came to us in a box. It's a total reproduction body made by dyno

Corn,

but we got it from year one.

We rolled it in here. Bear and got it started on the path to greatness.

We pulled all the panels in nice and

tight, filled everything, slick and level

and we got the body lines just right.

Then we hit it with this brilliant red

wet sand in it, polished it for that exquisite finish. Then we started putting it back together,

we put a Chris Austin sub frame in it. A GMZZ four crate motor and Edelbrock

dura Shine carburetor and manifold

and a vintage serpentine set up up front.

The coolest thing about this car is we're gonna give it to one of you guys. So I've got some goals that I've got to meet. I've got to get all this stuff on that car so we can sit in somebody's driveway. When the time comes, I'm gonna do the brakes, the pedals, the tail light, the radiator, the ac, everything that's here has got to be on that car. So I gotta get to work.

First thing on the list today, core support. Why we've got this fashionable direct replacement radiator from Afco. Now you can order this baby

with a fan shroud

and an electric fan ready to go.

We want this radiate it with the transmission cooler in the stock location. So it's not a problem hooking up those existing lines

and I painted the front black. So it just disappears when you look at

it.

Keep this baby nice and cool.

You know, back in the day AC was optional. So we decided to go with the Sure Fit kit from vintage air, comes with all the hoses. You need to hook it up the fan in the heater box, fit under the dash with little or no modifications

and it comes with a condenser, all the plumbing hardware and the compressor but I'm going to hook up the AC later because I know you guys want to see this thing on its wheels.

Wanna see that again.

Check out this brush stainless column that plugs right into the original wiring

and you have 4 to 6 inches of travel towards you or away from you. What I did was I took a piece of scratch seal just to see if I need to add another U joint because sometimes you gotta run three

or four.

Yeah, see, I'm definitely gonna have to run a

third one because it'll hit the header

and you won't be able to turn the car

beam

is what I did was I put a billet. You join in from Flaming River. It's sturdy

yet fashionable. And then I'll put an anchor on this part of the shaft. This will keep the steering column from doing that.

Once that anchors welding on, we bolt everything up and we got steering.

This baby is gonna turn like a slot car. There's no binding. I like it.

Now, this is a step that not everybody does, but it's really important. You wanna counter sync the bar wherever the set screws go. For one simple reason

when it's in there, they don't pull out. It's safety first. You spend all this time on this thing doing it right. Finish the job. Make it last, save your bar stock in case you need it later on down the road.

Oh, the pile's getting smaller.

The front gets very shock coil overs. They're six way adjustable and they're part of the Austin front end kit

in the back will use stock.

They're an easy fit.

This baby is gonna require massive stopping power and we're gonna supply it with 13 inch rotors all the way around

stopping power.

Time to put on your rubber.

We're staying traditional with wheel Vins

billet, rally wheels, rap the BMGG Force Takdws.

Here it is. The moment of truth.

Months of hard work gotta like that. It's finally starting to look like a car. Now you guys go get something to drink because that's what I'm gonna do

next on muscle car, making your own brake lines and making sure they'll last and coming up, we flash back to the boss 302. A muscle car built for the road and the track.

I'm steering

in case you just woke up. Here's what you missed. We're back on that crate. Camaro. We took care of the cooling system, the suspension, the brakes.

Oh, yeah, baby. She's starting to look like a car.

I know the top side looks good but we got bored. So we decided to paint the bottom. What do you think? You like it? You like it? It's a thing of beauty. We've got some things left to do. So I'm gonna run some fuel line, put the drive shaft, putting the exhaust. But first

I gotta do brake lines.

Now, these cars are so popular that they actually sell prebent brake lines. But because it is a convertible, it's got extra bracing right in here and we put in frame connectors. So what I'm gonna do is just bend at my own and make it easier for me. I'm gonna use this

Subra Mount here. I'll insert a piece of rubber hose on it so it doesn't change the line

and the rest is just the old calibrated eyeball.

There are three types of brake lines. There's a stainless steel braiding line which allows for movement.

There's a stainless steel hard line which requires a bender to make any kind of bends with

or you can use the softer steel line like the one I'm using.

Now. This tubing bend is really nice. But let me show you the way I've been doing it for years.

Remember guys, this is 316 soft steel brake line. If you're trying to bend it for the first time, bring a lot of tubing because if you bend it too far, it's j

well, uh

she is done

now, you will need a tool to make your flare. I'm using inverted flares required for the more reliable A N fittings. I like to use fuel line in this situation because it'll keep that brake line from getting a hole rubbed in it by that Subra connector because I don't care how good your brakes are. You don't have fluid, it ain't gonna stop nothing that's important cushion clamps. They'll keep the rest of the brake system from getting all

chafed up.

The last big piece of my brake system is this stock brake booster and master cylinder. Now, I've got a plumb in my proportioning valve, but I'm gonna wait till I get my inner fender. Well, in this way I know it clears everything and I don't have to do it over. But first being that I'm up here, I'm gonna plug some fuel in this pig. So it goes,

I decided to run this hard line by Russell for a really good reason. It runs along the base of the carburetor. This way, if you've got an air cleaner with a recess base, it doesn't hit your gas line. It also comes with a filter. Hey, and you know what gas nowadays is pretty dirty. So I have two filters on this base

and underneath, we're using this cotton jacket, a Teflon line gas line. The thing that's really cool about it is durable, but yet it's really flexible so you can make all the bends you need to make. But there's one slight problem. I can't finish hooking this up because

I don't have a gas tank.

But I did get my drive shaft. The guys at Denny's hooked me up with a nice steel piece here. I didn't wanna go aluminum because, you know, it's a street car. So I didn't feel the need for it.

And the thing that's cool about it. It comes, see a balance.

That's it for underneath of this thing. Now, I gotta get the fenders, the hood, the grill, the bumper, all those other parts to make this thing look like a car. But before I can do any of that, I gotta get the windshield in.

Now, back in the day, they had these little studs that line the window channel and is what they did because they held a spring clip that secured your window molding all the way around. Well, over time, those studs would rot out. So now you can get a couple of different things. You can get these pop rivets that are set up to the right depth. So when they go in, they hold the clip or you can get these little screws,

these little gems are dipped in rubber to prevent rust and they give you a snug fit for the clips.

Here's a little fun fact, I don't do windows.

I can do them,

but I don't. So just pay your glass guy's fee and move on. You never know he might have a project in his garage.

That is a really important reason why I had to have this windshield put in

before I put the fenders and the hood on.

But you'll have to wait until after the break to see that.

So you better get back here

back in the day of muscle cars. It was all about going in a straight line as fast as you could. But Ford took a different approach on that.

The Boss 302 today on muscle car flashback,

today's muscle car flashback. The Mustang Boss 302,

low lean and mean the Boss 302 was another muscle car that was built for the race track that found its way to the street. It started out as a trans

AM racer. Ford had to make 1000 of them before they could go to the track.

So starting with a 69 model like this one right here, there was a new high performance mustang one that combined a hot engine with road race handling

and the Boss 302 was easy to pick out of the Mustang line up.

The front spoiler was standard and the 69 had four round headlights up front. The Boss 302 was the only one with flat black on the hood trunk, the tail and a round the headlights and a reflective

C stripe down the side.

All four fenders were flared out just a little to make room for the magnum 500 wheels

and the fake side scoops on the other. Mustangs were gone on the Boss 302.

The rear window, Louvers and plastic spoiler in the back were right in style in 69

under the hood, a 302 tunnel port small block with 351. Cleveland heads Ford's aluminum pistons just barely legal for racing.

It was breathing through a holly four barrel and dual exhaust. Those 290 horses up front, a top load of four speed behind it

and a 350 a 390 or a 430 traction lock in the rear end.

The horse really wasn't meant for the drag strip.

It was a road race

and it had to do more than just accelerate.

It's mean looking just the lines of it just the way it looks.

It's tough.

The 302 didn't last long.

Just two years. 69 and 70. Then Ford got out of racing.

The price of a running 302 is not quite through the roof yet, but you're gonna spend at least 40 G's on a driver and even more for a show car

at

that price. You wanna be sure you're buying the real thing and there's several different ways to tell for sure

if it's an automatic. It's not a Boss 302.

All they had were four speeds. No exceptions to the rule.

The genuine Boss 302 has screw in freeze plugs

and eight screws holding down the valve cover.

The fifth digit in the VIN number has to be the letter G

that shows that it had the boss engine without that.

It's just another mustang.

The boss 302 is one of the few that can handle the road as well as the track. And even now close to 40 years later,

there are many modern cars which can run this fast and look this good bam.

I'm glad to see you back. That means I've got to get back to work. We're going to put all these body panels on our crate Camaro. But before we start doing that, I got to tell you why we had to get the windshield in first.

The lip of the fender actually goes up underneath this molding, but the molding is anchored down underneath defender. So you gotta have the windshield in with the molding on in order to mount the nose. But before we even get to the nose, I'm gonna hang the doors. The reason is, is I wanna get my gap right and back and work my way forward this way, all the gaps are uniform and it looks good.

Now, remember this car has already been put together to pre fit and prep the body for paint.

Like every project we do, drilling some alignment holes in the hinges for final assembly will make life so much easier.

Now, you can't use an alignment hall on everything

but whatever you can use it on, it's well worth it because it'll save you time and effort in the long run.

Oh,

put

out

lines up

those alignment holes work nice. First time go

with the inner fenders bolted up and your shims close at hand. It's time for the marriage. Don't even think about doing this without your protective tape.

Oh yeah, during the pre fit we wrote down how many shims we needed.

West side.

It's a thing of beauty.

I like it, man.

Now, this front balance is gonna tell us

all the hard work that we did lining up. This front end was worth it because it should go right in.

Oh yeah,

there was a naysayer out there. I'm sure it's not gonna fit

at this point. I'm loosely fitting the head of panels

and the grill just to see where we're at.

And this is the kind of stuff I'm looking for. You. See the gap here on the top is widening on the bottom. So that means the other side is gonna be exactly opposite. It's gonna be wider at the bottom versus the top. So that's telling me that I need to shift the whole nose over just a little bit. But before I do that, I need to put the hood on. So I don't create any alignment issues with the hood and the fenders. So I guess I better get hot. These hood hinges are spotted with primer.

A little pain on. Fix that.

Oh,

that's an outstanding starting point.

Now, the nose on this car is still loose and we still got a lot of final tweaking to do, but that's ok. It's boring and I know you guys don't wanna see it, but as what I do need you to see is where we came from today,

I'm really psyched that there were no major problems during the reassembly of this baby.

This crate Camaro is quickly turning into one cool ride

the tank got here. It was just a little too late, but that's ok because next time we're gonna do tail lights, carpet interior, we might get lucky enough to even fire it up and take it for a spin.

I might have to grow some hair.

I'm out of here later.

Instead of growing my hair, maybe I'll just go home and make biscuits.