Multi-port FI/WWII Vehicle/Tool Tips

Today on trucks, the guys have already bolted a high performance upgrade onto the top end of their straight six. This week, they'll go to work on the induction system by swapping out the stock carburetor with a multi port fuel injection.

After that, they've got a familiar looking vehicle that was also built by a familiar manufacturer.

Then it's back to the shop for a few tips on what you should carry in your toolbox. That's all today on trucks.

Hello, everybody. We're glad you're with us again. This week. Last week, we took our stock straight six and gave it a little attitude with the Clifford performance upgrade. It

included a special 4.0 head cam lifters, roller rockers as well as a custom header which like we told you last week, should put us really close to the horsepower of V8 pumps out.

Now, this week we're gonna deal with the induction system. Now, these old carburetors that came on, these Jeeps were not exactly designed with performance in mind.

They're more of an emissions carburetor, which means they pretty much run like crap, especially if you're out on a trail, but we're gonna fix all these problems without breaking any emissions laws by putting on a multi port fuel injection.

The system we're gonna use is made by Mopar. We grabbed ours from Earnhardt's dodge out of Gilbert Arizona. Now, this kit comes with a multi port fuel injection intake and throttle body, a brand new distributor, not to mention a fair amount of hoses in hardware.

Now, a multi port injection is triggered by a computer. So that also comes with the kit as well as an electric fuel pump and a very scary looking wiring harness. But don't worry, it's not as tough as it looks and we're gonna take you through it a step at a time

before we can get going on the installation of this kit. We have to remove a few things from the engine compartment. Now, as you can see, I've already popped off the stock windshield washer bottle.

We're also gonna have to remove the charcoal fuel canister. Uh, make sure you clearly mark where the vacuum lines are running into the canister. That way you'll know exactly where they're supposed to go when you hook up the new one.

Now it's time for the new distributor. Now, this thing is shipped with a lock pin in it that keeps it from rotating when you install it.

Another real important thing, the motor's got to be at top dead center before you slide this in.

If you want your timing to be right

now, using the reference marks, you took off the old distributor, you can slide in the new one.

After that, you can bolt it down

and pull out the lock pin.

Also, since we're already over here, we can go ahead and put on the new coil where the old fuel pump was

after stays, got the distributor and coil in place. I went ahead and bolt it on this bracket for the pickup sensor using a couple of the oil pan bolts up here in the front. After that, we were able to get the damper in place. Now, whatever you do, don't try to pound this on with a hammer, make sure you have the proper tool. Now, all that's left to do up here is get the pickup sensor on

about done up here

just about man. All right.

Now it's time for the intake manifold. Now it just slides into place using the factory hardware.

The tip here though

is to make sure that you don't over tighten the bolts. It's real easy to crack these aluminum ears and then you got a major problem about 25 ft pounds is all you need.

Now, you'll also notice there's no holes in this intake for the power steering pump.

That's not a problem.

We'll just show you how to modify that. A little later on

this big hole in the front of the engine here is where the thermostat goes. And Mopar

supplies a special 195 degree upgrade for this system.

The kit also comes with a brand new housing with a temperature sending unit already installed.

Now, getting fuel to a fuel injection is a little bit different than going to a carburetor.

Now, the kit comes with these new fuel lines and we're gonna run those right to the fuel rail. And once we decide how we're gonna run these lines, we'll go ahead and mount them to the intake. Now, an injection not only needs an inlet,

but it also needs a return line going back to the gas tank. And fortunately, our CJ is already set up for that.

Now, state's already showed you the computer and now is the perfect time to get it in place and believe it or not, it's gonna fit under the hood right here on the firewall. But before we could get it in place, I had to slide in the charcoal canister just to make sure we had room for both pieces.

Now, once you get the computer exactly where you want it,

go ahead and mark and drill your holes

when mounting the computer. Be careful not to cinch it down too tight or you could crack the housing.

Now, remember those fuel lines that I was talking about just a few minutes ago. Well, the problem on a CJ is that the feed line runs down the passenger side where the old fuel pump used to be,

the return line runs down the driver's side where they both need to be. So for the feed line,

we're gonna run a hose into the stock hard line,

bring it down around the front cross member, make sure you leave enough room for your grill

and also make sure that you're using a hose that is compatible with fuel injection.

Just a regular gas line is not strong enough to handle the pressure of fuel injection.

Now, once you have your lines run over here on the driver's side,

all you have to do is hook them up to your lines. You're ready to go.

Now, since we've converted from car duration to injection,

there's no way the stock throttle cable is gonna get the job done. So we're gonna replace the stock set up with this brand new cable that comes with the kit.

First thing we have to do is disconnect the stock cable from the pedal and pull it through the firewall.

After that, we can run one of the new cable

through the bracket

and connect it to the throttle body here

and we can run the other end of the cable through the firewall

in place of the old one.

You got it. Stay.

Yeah, I got it.

Now, all you have to do is hook it to the gas pedal

and that is that

now we can dive into that power steering pump. Now, like we told you before, it bolts right up to the stock location here on the water pump and down on the block. Like you can see these upper ears are no longer necessary. So we'll take everything apart, cut them off and hit everything with a nice coat of paint,

with everything cleaned up and painted. We can bolt the unit back on, followed by the crank pulley

and finally the fan.

Finally, we can start putting the front of the trail boss back together, starting with the grill and the front wiring harness.

By the way, this is the perfect time to check all your wiring connections as well as your bulbs and make sure nothing needs changing.

Now that we got the grill back in place, we can put on the ac condenser, the radiator, all the belts and hoses, the alternator. But instead of boring you with that, we'll take care of that during the break. We'll be back after this

later on trucks. Mel and Stacy have a few tips for you to think about when it comes to the tools you should have in your toolbox. But up first, the guys will finish bolting on that multi port fuel injection on the trail boss.

Welcome back to the shop, everybody. We're well on our way to have a fuel injection on our CJ seven, but there's still some work we need to do underneath our Jeep. So we're going to get it up in the air to make things a little bit easier to work on.

Now, just in case you didn't know a fuel injection has got to have an electric fuel pump because a mechanical pump just doesn't kick out A P si.

So we're gonna put our new pump and filter in the fuel line back here on this rear cross member,

take off the clamps holding the line to the cross member.

After that, take a pipe cutter and cut out a section of the hard line.

Then you can put on the filter and pump using the supplied clamps.

Now that we have the front of the Jeep reassembled, we can get going on the hook ups under the hood, which brings us to the main wiring harness which we know you guys have been wondering about since we showed it to you earlier. Now, on one end, you've got the 60 pin connector that plugs right into the computer.

The other end of the harness, you need to drape over the master cylinder

to the driver's side of the motor.

There are a couple relays on the harness and we'll mount those to the firewall with the hardware that comes with the kit.

Now, we'll continue to route the harness around the front of the engine

and then we'll hook in our fuel injectors which are clearly marked

and you'll notice you've got three plugs here in the center of the harness and you've got two up here at the front and you don't need to be too concerned about plugging these into the wrong hole because it'll only fit one way.

Then we'll bend the wiring around to the other side of the engine

plug in the coil.

And finally

the distributor,

of course, you have to run some sort of filter

and the kit also supplies that. Now this bracket attaches to the support rod and the elbow goes right down on to the throttle body. Now, all we have to do is run some hoses to the valve cover vent as well as the fuel canister

underneath the vehicle, run the harness up over the top of the transfer case

and into the vehicle speed sensor

and then the rest of it down the passenger side frame rail to the fuel pump. See, we told you it wasn't that hard.

Oh, yeah. For your deep water guys put a little dielectric grease on this connection to keep it from corroding on you

while Stacey was running our wiring harness underneath. I went ahead and put our radiator overflow and windshield washer bottles back on

next up. We need to hook up our vacuum connections to the manifold

with the supplied tubes.

Now, we're ready for the new plug wires. Now, the good thing about working on a straight six is the cylinders are numbered right in line starting from the front and going to the back.

And once we have all the wiring hooked up in here, all we have to do is put on the alternator and the air conditioning compressor.

After we finished the last of these electrical connections, we need to take the time to double check everything

to make sure we didn't forget any of our stock wiring connections, belts or hoses before we put fire to the motor. Also, don't forget to replace your oil as well as your radiator fluid. Another thing, anytime you replace a cam, make sure

that you run it up to about 2500 RPM s for roughly 20 minutes,

that'll give you enough lubrication on the cam to break it in, right, whatever you do, don't let it just sit there in idle. We've run out of time for today, so we need to take a break. But don't worry, we didn't forget about that exhaust system and we'll show you how to do that in another show. Stay with us. We'll be right back

up next. The guys have a history lesson for you on this go anywhere vehicle that looks like a Willie's Overland. But as you'll soon find out looks can be deceiving.

After that, we'll answer some frequently asked questions about essential hand tools.

Welcome back to trucks at the beginning of World War two. The military was in need of a small go anywhere vehicle, an American Banham Ford, as well as Willys Overland, all built prototypes to try to earn the contract.

Now, most people know that will, he's won the contract and built the legendary and B and B

is actually credited with inventing the Jeep. Few people are aware that Ford was also contracted to build Jeeps

to the Will design.

Now, the Ford version of the Jeep was called the GP. W

contrary to what you might think

the GP did not stand for general purpose. The G stood for the government contract

and the P stood for the 80 inch wheelbase reconnaissance car. Of course, the W stood for the Willie's design

and between 1942 and 1945 four bill just over a quarter of a million of these little guys. Now, this 42 we have here today is owned by Tom Patton of Nashville, Tennessee. And as you can see, it's been completely restored to original, including the flat olive drab paint, all the original military markings as well as these really hard to find unit directional tires.

The interior is another thing that really grabs you with its spartan and utilitarian design from the thin canvas covered seats to the basic gauges, steering wheel and column as well as the shifter levers. Now, remember these vehicles were designed to get in and out of quickly carrying your guns and ammo and if you didn't do it just right, you were guaranteed to bust your shins on that low hanging dash.

The early 42 model had Ford signature stamped into the rear panel which makes this vehicle the most desirable to the collector. Of course, it also came equipped with a shovel and ax for our guys to dig themselves a foxhole or get out of any trouble they might find off road

and to cool themselves down after a long day on the front lines. Another American icon chipped in with a bottle opener

under the hood is a flathead ford four cylinder. It's kicking out, uh, probably 60 horses and it's all sealed up. So it run in deep water. Now, 60 horses doesn't sound like much compared to today's standards. But

you put that in a 2500 pound vehicle and it had more than enough power to take our GIS anywhere they wanted to go

today. However,

it's used to pull another piece of military history that does have plenty of horse power. This fully restored P 51 Mustang that goes by the name of Sweet Face is also owned by Patton

who forks out more than you care to know to fly and maintain this old war.

Since our budget is a little tighter than that. We'll stick to pulling it around with the GP W Stay with us. We got more trucks to roll to it right after this.

Hey, where's the machine guns

coming up next on trucks? We'll go over some essential hand tools you should have in your shop, followed by this week's quick tip.

Just can't get enough of trucks. Check us out online at trucks, tv.com.

Thanks for staying with us. You know, we get a lot of people that write in and say, hey, what kind of tools do I need to set up my shop? So I can do projects like you do on the show.

Well, you probably know you can't ever have too many tools, but there are some that you really do need and then there's some that you can do without at least for now. So what we're gonna talk about are essential hand tools. But what we're not gonna talk about

is what we'll assume you already have like a good set of wrenches and sockets. The first thing we're gonna talk about is hammers

and here's what you find in most guys toolboxes. Now, it's a good hammer, but it's made for driving and pulling nails, not for working on vehicles. What you really need is some big old sledges so you can get some power to move some things around

and you also need some hammers with soft faces so you don't

up the surface or cause sparks. Now, here's something you really need, especially if you're gonna work on older vehicles and that's an impact or high torque screwdriver. Basically, all you do is stick it into the screw

hammer on the end of it

and pull it out. Believe us, these things really come in handy because they allow you to pull out rusty old screws. You wouldn't be able to with a normal screwdriver.

Now, one of the realities of working on a vehicle is eventually

you're gonna have to do some wiring

and having this stripper tool makes life a whole lot easier.

It allows you to strip the end of the wire or come in and make a place for a splice

all in a second using just one hand.

Now, like we said before, we're already assuming you have a full set of sockets. Unfortunately, specialty fasteners like Allen heads or heck

torques and star bits are real common, especially on newer vehicles. So you have to have a good set of these or you're gonna have some major downtime going to your local parts store to buy the tools you need to complete your project. Now, sooner or later, you're gonna have to repair some strip threads or you're gonna have to put some threads where there aren't any and this is where having a good quality tap and die set in both metric and sae is important.

Now, a good set of these is gonna cost you a little bit of money, but you definitely get what you pay for and if you get the good stuff, you'll never have to replace them.

The last tool we're gonna look at today and one that a lot of people overlook is a fitting wrench. Now, these things are a must when working on brake lines or any kind of soft fitting because they're designed to grab four sides of the nut instead of just two and that helps prevent you from damaging your fittings.

Of course, this is just the tip of the iceberg when it comes to essential hand tools. But hopefully, this gives you a few ideas of what you want to fill your box with.

If you find yourself replacing a lot of water pumps and alternators, well, chances are you're running your fan belts too tight that can cause a strain on the bearings and wear them out real quick. So the question becomes, how tight do you run your belts?

Well, ideally, they should deflect about a half inch

over approximately a 12 inch span

using about the same pressure that you use to push on the button of a Coke machine.

Now, of course, if your span is shorter or longer, that deflection will change a little bit.

But remember running them too tight is just as bad as having them too loose.

Ok. So you have your truck and you have stuff to put in your truck, like camping gear, groceries or even the family dog. But what if it rains?

Your stuff will get all wet

unless

you get an A re truck cab.

We've been rated a consumer digest best buy,

visit your A re dealer soon.

So you're not left out in the rain.

Check us out at www 0.4 A re.com

and now truck gear, parts, tools and equipment for pickups and sport utilities.

Now, there's a lot of parts on your vehicle that are rubber besides your tires, things like bushings. Body and motor mounts, unfortunately have a tendency to break down fairly quickly. But there is some good news here. Energy suspensions makes it possible to replace all those rubber parts with much stronger urethane replacements that also last and perform a whole lot better. Now, you can buy a master kit for just about any make or model out there and replace everything at once or you can just buy one section at a time. But whatever your needs, energy suspensions has the answer.

Everybody knows that replacing a windshield is not cheap. The question is, do you have to replace the whole glass when all you've got is a little chip or crack in it.

And the answer is no,

the Eastwood company's got a glass repair kit that allows you to make almost invisible repairs and it keeps the glass from cracking any further. Now, the kit only costs about 20 bucks and that my friends is a lot cheaper than replacing the whole glass.

If you spend a lot of time in your truck or SUV, then you know how tough it is to keep your cell phone notes and day runner from ending up on the floorboard. Not to mention the safety issues involved with trying to drive at the same time, the mobile office console from steel horse keeps

everything at arm's length and organized. But the best part is you've got a nice flat surface for riding on when you're at a stoplight. Keep things safe and productive with the mobile office console from Steel Horse. That's gonna do it for truck gear. Here's a preview of next week's show.

The guys tear into the center section of the frame on their 34 international as project Hairy Hauler draws closer to completion.

Then it's time to check out the latest concept vehicle from GMC. They call it the Teradyne, we call it awesome. Finally we'll show the Siri hauler how to get the most out of his truck for work. Or play with 1/5 wheel installation.

That's all next week on trucks.

Well, that's gonna do it for this week's show. We appreciate you hanging out with us. Yeah, we look forward to trucking with you again next week.

What are you doing? Oh, do

I have a surprise for you,

John.

What

man

Trucks is an RTM production?